OldRoads.com > Discuss: English 3-speeds
Discuss: English Roadsters Scroll Down For Messages



NOTICE

I'm selling the OldRoads.com website.

I started the site in 1995 and sold my retail shop in April of this year.

I'm retiring from the bike business.

Here's a link to the eBay auction:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/122248859390

Vinny


All pictures and text in these pages are (c)2010 Menotomy Vintage Bicycles, Inc.(tm) and may not be used in any form without written permission from Menotomy Vintage Bicycles, Inc.(tm).

Search 18 years of ARCHIVES:  


Disclaimer:
Menotomy Vintage Bicycles, Inc. has set up this discussion area for the sharing of vintage and custom bicycle information. Anyone may add their opinions to this forum, as long as they follow the rules outlined below. We are not responsible for incorrect or misleading advise which may appear here.

RULES:

All pictures and text in these pages are (c)2010 Menotomy Vintage Bicycles, Inc.(tm) and may not be used in any form without written permission from Menotomy Vintage Bicycles, Inc.(tm).


Vintage Bicycle Discussion Area

English Roadsters


Post a new topic, or click an existing topic below:




[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

WANTED:   Need rear mudguard reflector posted by: David Poston on 2/2/2009 at 12:17:59 PM
If anyone has a rear mudguard reflector in black (preferably metal housing), appropriate for a 1950s Phillips roadster, please let me know. Purchase or trade for other parts.

This is the last piece of the puzzle for this bike (well, almost), so I'm eager to get this part.

Thanks
David
by: 166.127.1.222

  Replies:
           RE:WANTED:   Need rear mudguard reflector posted by Matthew on 2/3/2009 at 12:35:52 PM
Hi David,

eBay but be prepared to pay. There are some NOS examples out there but any red rear reflector in useful condition will fetch more than I have paid for some bikes!

Matthew - time for reflection
by: 86.0.109.190




[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

AGE / VALUE:   take a look at the front rack posted by: Chris on 2/1/2009 at 9:26:14 AM
e- bay item # 380099943525 2009 raleigh coasting bicycle

interesting design for a front rack. I don't like it and it's rather limited but I guess this is better than none at all.
by: 4.230.162.254

  Replies:
           RE:AGE / VALUE:   take a look at the front rack posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 2/2/2009 at 3:28:45 AM
INteresting.... 'twould be nice to see how that's attached... and what it's rated for.

Later!

Larry "Boneman" Bone - Nice rack!
by: 4.154.222.15




[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

AGE / VALUE:   RALEIGH BICYCLE BOTTOM BRACKET REMOVAL posted by: Chris on 1/28/2009 at 6:13:56 PM
The best way and the cheapest, quickest way to remove the Raleigh bicycle fixed bottombracket cup.

Is, Go to your auto parts store and ask the guys in the back of the store. You tell them you want to buy a left hand thread car wheel stud and the nut that threads onto it.

in the U.S.A. when you remove a tire off of the car you go to loosen a wheel stud nut and after you jack up the car you use the wrench and to loosen the nut you turn it to the left or counter clockwise. Well, you want to go the other way here, you want it to tighten up when you turn it to the left. you want to tighten it up going couinter clockwise.

this is a "left hand thread" you will be asking for something they have in stock but rarely sell a customer these days.

you will be asking for a left hand thread at the auto parts store. What I got this evening is a left hand thread stud and nut.

this cost me $1.00 he was glad to get rid of it. the last time I bought one of these it cost me like $4.00
You dont want the ones with a spline on the stud as is the case with the older chrysler model wheel studs. You want the stud to be able to thread all the way down so you don't want any splines.

Now, on the English Raleigh bicycle, you remove the adjustable cup lock ring, you remove the adjustable cup with a wrench and pull out the spindle and old ball bearings

you squirt in some degreasing solution like automotive brake cleaner (tall can with a straw you stick into the sprayer) in a can and this is like $5.00 in the stores.

you take the stud and insert it into the bottom bracket fixed cup and you have the threaded end stick out towards you now, you thread on the nut and tighten it down all the way until it is snug (now the fun part!!!! HEEE- HEEE HEEE GRIN) With a long handled wrench, or an electric or air powered impact gun you continue to tighten down that wonderful little nut......( don't worry, you won't break the stud!!) Keep tightening, until you marry the nut and fixed cup together with the stud and the three parts will become one and just keep on tightening and right before you, before your very eyes......... that Raleigh fixed cup will unscrew and come out of the bike. this is what we want, because we are doing a full and proper raleigh bicycle bottom bracket cup removal and if you already have the replacement adjustable and fixed cups in hand ready to install in the bike with the new spindle and ball bearings with fresh grease then you are all good to go.

this is the cheapest, easiset, and quickest way to remove a Raleigh bicycle bottom bracket fixed cup.

No tools to send away for and that is a good thing because finding the replacement bottombracket fixed and adjustable cups from e- bay or the Raleigh chopper owners group on the web is not easy, cheap or painless.

So, if you have found the parts this is the fun part.

In closing, you can do this and don't be spooked. You can find original raleigh bottom bracket fixed cups out there.

Ask around and ask us if you need them.

Good Luck, make that Raleigh bicycle ride like magic, ride like a new bike again!
-Chris
by: 207.69.139.149

  Replies:
           RE:AGE / VALUE:   RALEIGH BICYCLE BOTTOM BRACKET REMOVAL posted by Chris on 1/28/2009 at 8:28:12 PM
Such hi-jinks are not necessary for removing a non- Raleigh or Phillips or B.S.A. type bottom bracket fixed cup.
Those cups, both fixed and adjustable have flats on the fixed and pin holes on the adjustable cup. You can still find a Park Tool pin spanner at most modern bicycle shops. That you use on the adjustable cups and any commonly available wrench is used to remove the non Raleigh produced bottom bracket fixed cup. This stuff is also known as "Phillips type" or 24 t.p.i. thread cups.

As for Raleigh's bikes, I am referring to the English Nottingham produced bikes with their 26 t.p.i. thread cups.Most all of the Raleigh bicycles you will find have their 26 t.p.i. cups in the bike.

The bike shops (years ago) had a special Raleigh made shop tool for removing this part. However as time went on this part was left in the bike and shops just regreased and adjusted the bottom bracket and that was called an "overhaul". If the shop had a good stock of bottombracket cups and the tool on hand, then the overhaul would have included all new parts but these parts got scarce and in all my travels and hunting and visiting shops I rarely saw the official Raleigh tool for removing the fixed cup. If I had saw this tool, I would have attempted to buy one for myself but although, I owned several original Raleigh produced tools for working on these Raleigh bicycles I have only seen the official Raleigh tool for their bottom bracket cups on e- bay and that was from someplace in England.

Another tactic in selling the customer a new bike is to tell the customer "We can't get the parts you asked us for" The original replacement fixed cup is scarce, people want these and it was not very often that I saw these in any real number in the drawers of the shops.

However, the Raleigh chopper bike that has been enjoying such revivals and attention used this very same part. So contact the Raleigh chopper web site and inquire about buying a n.o.s. fixed and adjustable cup.

Remember that the Raleigh Sport, Superbes, all of the rod brake D.L.1. Tourist bikes both 26 and 28 inch wheel versions the Raleigh space Rider, the Raleigh l.t.d. and all the other Raleigh made bikes such as the "oh there were so many!!) Gazelle, Humbers, Rudge, Hercules, Phillips, Dunelts, and all of the other names and brands that were included in the B.C.C. / T.I./ Raleigh merger. basically, anything that was made in Nottingham from 1920 and all the way up to 1983? in there will have the 26 t.p.i. cups. The raleigh fixed cup has raised flats and they are not raised very much and the spanner does not work on this and well, it's a real bear to remove. You can use a drift punch but the flats chip apart and you can be blinded without goggles and no bike shop today has this tool in their stasdh of bike tools and today, if they find it in the bottom of the tool drawer nobody will recognize it and know what it is used for.

I have collected tools and bought tools and my other collector friends aree mystified what it was used to or on or with. bottom line, old tools fade away.

So, this same bottom bracket cup went on EVERYTHING Raleigh made for over 80 years and yet, the parts are no longer in production anywhere in the world. Very scarce and seldom found in the bike shops today. You would think that this part would have been kept in production. After all, replacement hub spindles and cones were made by companies like Cyclo gear ( who now is also defunct) but at some point in time, Raleigh in Nottingham in the 1980's changed over and what happened to the equipment that produced millions and millions of these bottom bracket fixed and adjustable cups where that equipment went? The scrap dealer? the machine tool buyer? Where it went I don't know. It was an incredibly, brilliant, short sighted, screw up by the Raleigh company.

A great fortune could have been made. Just keep the tooling operating and keep these parts available to millions and millions of past customers in a large number of countries the world over.
Like I said, this part went on ALL THE RALEIGH BIKES, RALEIGH MADE- ALL THE RALEIGH BIKES THAT RALEIGH SENT TO HAPPY CUSTOMERS ALL OVER THE WORLD!!

So, why it's not being offered, why it's so scarce, I JUST DON'T UNDERSTAND THIS.
Actually, it's out there, you just need to look a bit and spend a bit to find this replacement part.

Given the number of years it was in use on their bikes, given the large numbers of bikes made and sent to be used in so many foreign countries, for this tooling to vanish from the face of the known world was really, really stupid, short sighted and very costly in the way of lost income from the replacent parts market.

The bottom bracket is the "boiler room" of your bike.

It has fustrated riders, users, collectors and everybody else that owns a Raleigh bike. It turned folks who love these bikes into mad, hoarding, scavangers. (and I am one of them!)

front hub cones were easier to find but now thats scarce as well, you can find replacement N.O.S. front hubs are possible on e- bay as well and headset cups are more difficult to find.

Bear in mind, that these original parts were tough and of good quality.

Raleigh's founder Frank Bowden did not like it that folks kept their bikes a second and third season. He expected folks to buy a new bike every other year. You were expected to buy a new bike often. He saw moneyed people buying the cheapest foreign produced bike they could find and it enraged him. He said it was "suicidal as well as contemptable" Then there was the tale of the scavanger who saved up for a Beeston Humber bicycle.

I can't really be hard on Raleigh because they offered every replacement part imaginable!! in those truly magical yellow, red, and black boxes that were literal works of art. Raleigh was good to us. The thing is, it ran out and like I said, it is really unforgivable that the bottom bracket cup machine tooling was not kept operating and changes and change of ownership be damned.

If you have an old Raleigh bike and you don't want to brave these waters don't worry you don't need to.

These headset cups and bottom bracket cups can be inspected, cleaned, re-greased and the bike will roll along and along long after we are done with them.

However, for it to ride like new, then these things need to be replaced.

Sheldon Brown said: "Properly cared for, they will outlast us all" He was correct.

Actually, in a quest to keep the bikes in good order and needing n.o.s. parts to keep my fleet in top knotch shape and also, the love of it all, and the desire to buy , collect, explore the world of Raleigh bikes. It all started for me because I needed or would need one day replacement parts.

That opened the door to all those shops, meeting all those people, all the traveling and Indiana Jones type exploring and it was no less than actual, pure magic.

I wish I was there, at Raleigh and I would have urged that this old tooling that made the older bikes be kept and preserved and all these replacement parts would still have been available to past customers.

Oh, Sure, the new bikes and their parts would have been in the spotlight on the stage and attention to all that but Raleigh really threw out the baby with the bathwater and it was the baby the built the company.

I remember this one bike shop and the two brothers that ran it and they were so proud to offer Raleigh's and they worked very hard to offer top knotch service and assembly and they "hated the new, sealed bearing hubs" because they had hardly any grease in them when they arrived here in the U.S.A. from Nottingham. Their spirit, and the shop was a real treat to be in the company would have been immensly proud of them. To them at that shop it was like being authorized to sell a Rolls Royce.

Fortunes were made all over the world over these bikes. The Raleigh bike was something incredible.
by: 207.69.137.39

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   RALEIGH BICYCLE BOTTOM BRACKET REMOVAL posted by Kevin on 1/29/2009 at 5:13:41 AM
Here's a tool for the same job:
http://bikesmithdesign.com/BBTool/index.html
He also makes a great little tool for removing the cotters that hold the crank arms on old English bikes.
by: 205.188.116.199

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   RALEIGH BICYCLE BOTTOM BRACKET REMOVAL posted by David on 1/29/2009 at 8:11:13 AM
If your auto parts supply store is farther than a general hardware store, it will be easier to use Sheldon's method.
See http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html
by: 216.15.114.27

           RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   RALEIGH BICYCLE BOTTOM BRACKET REMOVAL posted by Chris on 1/29/2009 at 9:49:45 AM
The car wheel stud works every time and like I said the cost is between 1 and 5 dollars.
by: 71.40.121.165

           RE:AGE / VALUE: RALEIGH BICYCLE BOTTOM BRACKET REMOVAL posted by Al on 1/29/2009 at 4:23:02 PM

I've used Sheldon's method. Sometimes it works, sometimes not. When it doesn't work, the tool spins on the cup. No purchase. Sounds like the wheel stud might have more bite?

When the fixed cup is really tight, I put the tool in a vice and spin the frame. That's when I start to think, maybe removing the cup does more damage to the frame than leaving it in there...

by: 71.135.52.51

           RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: RALEIGH BICYCLE BOTTOM BRACKET REMOVAL posted by Chris on 1/29/2009 at 7:09:29 PM
the wheel stud is stronger than the hardware store method you can crank down on it so it can get the proper amount of bite to remove it. As for damaging the frame, I have never heard of this before but I guess there is risk in everything.
Raleigh sold replacement fixed cups and supplied the shops with the tool to remove this cup.

The fixed cup is really on the front line or the business end of the bottom bracket this is the side that supports the chain side chainwheel and after the average of 30 years of wear, usually without a regrease as well it makes a difference to replace this part.

If you manage to find a replacement N.O.S. Raleigh cup then the above post is relevant.

If not, just regrease and put in new ball bearings.
by: 207.69.139.159

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   RALEIGH BICYCLE BOTTOM BRACKET REMOVAL posted by Bobby Landry on 11/18/2010 at 6:58:57 PM
I have a
Raleigh Team Pro SBDU Track Frame 56cm. Can you tell me what size bottom bracket,so I can install a new Campagnolo BB.
I have tried a 1.370x24 but on the left hand side the cap seams to fit loosely. I have found a set of old Raleigh cups, waiting
for them to show up.looking for a older 111 campy spindle to
install into the cups. could this work?
by: 205.168.180.88




[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

AGE / VALUE:   Frames posted by: Jeff on 1/28/2009 at 5:00:04 PM
What a collection, hope it doesn't end up rubbish.


http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/14-VINTAGE-BICYCLE-FRAMES-for-RESTORATION_W0QQitemZ400027447527QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Collectables_Bicycle_RLhash=item400027447527&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1688%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318
by: 76.94.138.205

  Replies:
           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Frames posted by Jeff on 1/28/2009 at 5:03:48 PM
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/14-VINTAGE-BICYCLE-FRAMES-for-RESTORATION_W0QQitemZ400027447527QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Collectables_Bicycle_RL?hash=item400027447527&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1688%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318
by: 76.94.138.205




[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

AGE / VALUE:   Leather frame bags posted by: David Poston on 1/28/2009 at 12:51:20 PM
Does anyone know where you can obtain leather frame bags, like the ones that you find on the old Swiss military bicycles? I noticed that the Old Bicycle Company no longer lists them on their website.

by: 166.127.1.212

  Replies:
           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Leather frame bags posted by Jeff on 1/28/2009 at 4:26:16 PM
Check military surplus stores. Luckly, I have a european military surplus store 5 miles away. They have tons of swiss bikes.

Check this site out. I not sure if you can buy from them, but they have tons of Swiss bikes. http://www.militaerveloshop.ch/
by: 76.94.138.205

           RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Leather frame bags posted by Chris on 1/28/2009 at 8:38:07 PM
Brooks just brought these back, the miracle happened!_ these were displayed at the trade shows the smaller leather tool rolls and small box type leather spanner under the seat with the two clasps is available now but the Brooks bags, the big ones is not offered right now it was going to e expensive but that has gotten still born so to speak.

This is a rare and expensive collectable item on e- bay.

I owned a few of the old ones and it drove me crazy to find one to buy and it was usually expensive unless you were lucky enough to find one on a bike that was being offered for sale from somebody who did not know how rare and sought after these are.

Carradice is not leather but those are not to be missed or taken for granted.
by: 207.69.137.39

           RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Leather frame bags posted by David Poston on 1/28/2009 at 9:38:27 PM
I see that the Old Bicycle Company (www.theoldbicycle.co.uk) now offers several (overpriced) bags from Brooks, but none of the Swiss-army style, reasonably priced leather frame bags that seemed just the ticket for storing some essential items, such as a cable and lock, on your roadster.

Does anyone know why these disappeared from their website?
by: 98.197.73.228




[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

MISC:   Rod Brake Parts on Ebay.... posted by: Larry "Boneman" Bone on 1/28/2009 at 6:19:55 AM
This sellor currently (01/28/09) has a bunch of rod-brake parts listed.

http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZ99cents-openingbid


Just an heads-up!

Cheers!

Larry "Boneman" Bone - snowing.... again..... :-((
by: 4.154.220.32

  Replies:



[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

MISC:   Doubles posted by: Jeffery on 1/27/2009 at 3:58:03 PM
Just saw a rod braked Phillips tandem for sale. Needs a little work. It's missing mudguards, rear handle bars and needs tubes/tyres. Anyone know anything about these? I have never seen one before until today. Is it worth picking up or not?

-Jeff
by: 76.94.138.205

  Replies:
           RE:MISC:   Doubles posted by sam on 1/27/2009 at 4:36:15 PM
Depends on price
If very cheep(or better free)Yes get it.Tandems were limited models by all makers.And old tandems will only go up in price.But for now---they are the best,and most fun way to bike with your girl.---sam
by: 68.89.128.43

           RE:MISC:   Doubles posted by Kevin on 1/28/2009 at 1:27:58 AM
Of course, it depends on the price ... but if it seems reasonable, go for it. You could probably make money on it with very little effort. I've never seen a rod-brake tandem for sale, even on eBay.
by: 64.12.116.199

           RE:MISC:   Doubles posted by sam on 1/28/2009 at 7:19:47 AM
I've never seen a rod-brake tandem for sale, even on eBay

Then you been missing half the fun---check out ebay.U.K.
Lots of interesting tandems on the U.K. side of ebay---then try Ebay. france!(Shipping cost!!!!)
by: 68.89.128.43

           RE:RE:MISC:   Doubles posted by Chris on 1/28/2009 at 8:42:08 AM
Go get it. This is very cool, you will find the missing parts. Sam is correct too.
by: 207.69.137.6

           RE:MISC:   Doubles posted by Kevin on 1/28/2009 at 3:36:08 PM
Thank you, but I prefer to stay far, far away from ebay.U.K. I have enough storage problems dealing with English bikes that are already in the U.S.
by: 205.188.116.199




[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hercules 3-speed internal hub interchangeability with SA... posted by: Lenny on 1/27/2009 at 10:01:34 AM
Hello All,

I have seen it stated in several places that Hercules 3-speed "AW clone" internal hub parts (with exception of threaded drivers and diameter of planet pinions on older Hercules hubs) are interchangeable with those of Sturmey Archer AW models. However, I recently disassembled a 1958 Hercules 3-speed hub (missing its indicator spindle), in order to understand why I was not able to fit a replacement Sturmey Archer indicator spindle into the hub.

I discovered two interesting facts: 1) although the original axle key was in place in the Hercules hub, its drilled and threaded hole was of larger diameter than that of the corresponding SA replacement part. Therefore, the SA indicator spindle threads were unable to engage the threads of the Hercules axle key. 2) The Hercules hub had two sets of three half-moon shaped pawls (with no springs!) in place of the pawls and springs used in the SA models.

The Hercules axle key was also a bit shorter in overall length than that of the SA replacement. I was able to fit the replacement SA axle key, but first had to file down the "ears" of the SA axle key and file a bit of metal off of each "shoulder" of the axle key as well.

After that, I (with help of two participating basement mechanics such as myslef) was able to reassemble the hub. No pieces were left on the bench, and all seems to shift as expected now...so...happy ending.

Just though I would pass along my experience.
Regards,
Lenny
by: 76.240.223.183

  Replies:
           RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hercules 3-speed internal hub interchangeability with SA... posted by Keith Body on 1/27/2009 at 12:29:46 PM
Your description of the self actuating pawls reminded me of a SA 3 speed wide gear from about that time. It had a smaller diameter hub shell. I can't remember what it was called, except it was not a success. Perhaps it was rebadged Hercules and sold in the export market.
I was retailing Raleigh, BSA, and others then. I don't remember ever seeing a Hercules hub gear.
by: 195.93.21.98

           RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hercules 3-speed internal hub interchangeability with SA... posted by Lenny on 1/27/2009 at 1:11:00 PM
Hi Keith,

You might be interested to know that this hub was installed on an 26" wheeled Hercules 3-speed, with a "Western Flyer" headbadge (house brand of the Western Auto hardware stores in the US). This is the only example I have ever seen of a Hercules-branded 3-speed hub. I (and 2 fellow volunteer mechanics) have been reconditioning the bike for a local non-profit bicycle project. The bike is in pretty rough shape but we are managing to at least make it rideable and safely so.
Regards,
Lenny
by: 76.240.223.183

           RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hercules 3-speed internal hub interchangeability with SA... posted by Chris on 1/27/2009 at 3:48:46 PM
Ha Ha Ha! Grin!! You have in your hand a copy of the Hercules's attempt at copying the Sturmey- Archer S.W..

If you think the Sturmey- Archer A.W. hub was the only hub that was copied by and interchanged with the Hercules hubs you are wrong.

Hercules also copied the Sturmey- Archer S.W. model 3 speed hub.

Sturmey- Archer introduced the S.W. model hub and they withdrew the model a.w. and when the S.W. did not do well they brought back the A.W. three speed hub.

For a brief while, the S.W.'S got into service, they were sold and a lot got out before the company stopped making them and brought back the S.W. by then the gate had been open awhile and Hercules branded S.W. hubs also got out as well.

You are looking at an S.W. model 3 speed hub and confused because you are thinking of the model a.w. hub. Most of the a.w. and s.w. parts do not interchange. However, Hercules and Brampton's versions of the S.W. will interchange with Sturmey- Archer's version of the S.W. IT IS ALL THE SAME!

And, the Sturmey- Archer A.W. will interchange with the Hercules and Brampton and Steyr and Sears model 3 speed hubs.

Not too many of these Hercules branded S.W. hubs are about. Yours is an extra special S.W. because it does not say Sturmey- Archer on the hub shell.

It is all very interesting. Read Tony Hadlands book: the sturmey- Archer story and the updates to it on his website on hadland.net and you will see photographs of these different hubs by visiting the Sturmey- Archer website and looking over the history section of it.

The early S.W. hubs used a two piece indicator chain and then they changed to a one piece indicator chain but the indicator chain for a s.w. will not work with the indicator chain for an a.w. model hub.


So you need an sturmey- archer s.w. indicator chain

either the two piece or the one piece chain will do. I think. here I get confused it has been awhile so you better get one of each in hand and try each one.

let us know how you do with it.
by: 69.153.86.42

           RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hercules 3-speed internal hub interchangeability with SA... posted by Chris on 1/27/2009 at 3:54:56 PM
Hercules even sold a deraileur unit too!

I find Hercules fascinating!
by: 69.153.86.42

           RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hercules 3-speed internal hub interchangeability with SA... posted by Warren on 1/27/2009 at 6:17:24 PM
Nice catch Chris.

Here's a catalogue scan of a Hercules drivetrain line around 1952.

I also have a Hercules/SA clone thumb shifter, (not in the flyer) somewhere. As well as the patent 49 Herailleur and that beautiful, chrome shifter.
by: 24.215.86.83

           RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hercules 3-speed internal hub interchangeability with SA... posted by Warren on 1/27/2009 at 6:21:48 PM
That's a 1950 catalogue.
by: 24.215.86.83

           RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hercules 3-speed internal hub interchangeability with SA... posted by Lenny on 1/27/2009 at 8:02:37 PM
Thank you all for sharing your collective information and experience(especially Chris). It did not occur to me that the Hercules hub was not a copy of the SA AW hub, but now it all makes sense. No wonder I was perplexed!

Best Regards,
Lenny
by: 76.240.223.183

           RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hercules 3-speed internal hub interchangeability with SA... posted by Warren on 1/28/2009 at 5:10:02 PM
Sorry...here's the pic of the catalogue....sheesh.

http://oldroads.com/oldroads_files/329_8.jpg
by: 24.215.86.83

           RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hercules 3-speed internal hub interchangeability with SA... posted by Chris on 1/29/2009 at 9:59:34 AM
The s.w. hub is dead silent in operation no clicking sprung pawls to announce your presence.
by: 71.40.121.165




[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

MISC:   old photos collection posted by: Pete on 1/26/2009 at 10:48:31 AM
Slightly off topic but if like me you enjoy all things bicycle and especially older ones then take a look here:
http://www.rogerco.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/anew/collect2.htm
For some really interesting photos of yesteryears bicycles.
Oddly enough one of the images was taken 2 miles from where I live.

by: 78.33.123.28

  Replies:



[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Question(s) about lighting. posted by: Thom J. on 1/26/2009 at 10:07:44 AM
I've got a line on the purchase of an old Sturmey-Archer headlight/tailight/DBU/wire harness combo and am not sure whether to use a bottle generator or a hub generator with it. Currently I've got a reproduction bottle generator system on my Sports and was thinking of using this generator with the new lighting system. I've looked at fleabay and have seen a few hub generators as an option.....I can have my local old bike shop guy lace up the wheels for me so that's not a big issue (I've never learned how to build wheels myself although I'd like to but that's another story) but am concerned about N.O.S. generators....best way to test them off the bike? Or should I just use a nice old S/A type bottle generator instead. Your input and suggestions will be appreciated. Thom.
by: 63.204.42.231

  Replies:
           RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Question(s) about lighting. posted by Warren on 1/26/2009 at 8:18:11 PM
Hub generator...put a voltmeter on the two output leads and spin it or use an SA light that's known to work. I think the voltmeter needs to be in AC mode. You're looking for 6 volts at a typical rpm...>60 rpm?

Don't think SA made a bottle generator.
by: 24.215.86.83

           RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Question(s) about lighting. posted by Thom J. on 1/27/2009 at 9:00:46 AM
Thx Warren.
by: 63.204.42.231




[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

WANTED:   Need Phillips seatpost posted by: David Poston on 1/25/2009 at 10:16:00 PM
If anyone has a Phillips seatpost for sale, please let me know. I've been away from my bikes for a while, but it's finally time to get my 1952 Phillips gents roadster put together.

For those that don't know, Phillips seatposts are 1 1/16" diameter, while Raleigh are 1" diameter.

Send me an email if you have one available.
by: 98.197.73.228

  Replies:



[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

AGE / VALUE:   Repairing K hub posted by: PRM on 1/25/2009 at 6:34:12 AM
I have an old drum brake K hub that is in bad shape; the indicator chain broke off from the hub and took what appears to be a small part of the labeled "K-1" (in the diagram available in http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/'hadland/sa/k.pdf) in the process.

I'd like to able to fix it- any suggestions? Spare parts specifically for the K series hub I imagine are scarce, so can I substitute parts intended for an AW hub? Moreover, it would be completely new for me to repair a hub. I just want to give to it a shot. As a last resort, I would opt to have someone else fix it, if it's possible and the cost is reasonable.
by: 74.67.50.47

  Replies:
           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Repairing K hub posted by Pete F. on 1/25/2009 at 10:30:07 AM
Hello PRM,
I'm no expert, but I am in a similar situation - I have a K series hub which I cannot use because it lacks N6 (Indicator screw) N8 (Axle spring) and N7/X2/X3 (Coupling spindle, chain and Screwed connection).

Looking further into Tony Hadland's pages, at http://www.hadland.me.uk/2tables.pdf, it look like the parts we are after were common to the A, N, FN, C, V, K range, T, TF, TFB and TC. Not much help to us I'm afraid, as the K was probably the most common of that lot, but I think it suggests that AW parts cannot be substituted.

Regarding your hub - is there enough chain left to get hold of? the Indicator screw (or rod)has a screwdriver slot in it - left hand end of the axle - and it can be unscrewed from the Coupling spindle, so that both can be removed. Then the Axle spring can be encouraged to drop out of the LH end of the axle.

I do know from experience that these parts are self contained, and can be removed and screwed back in without disturbing the internal mechanism. You have to push against the pressure of the spring in order to start the thread when putting it back.

As for obtaining spares I'm afraid I cannot help.Maybe there are companies (in UK) that restore old Sturmeys who have supplies, but whether they will part with them might be another matter. If you are in the UK you might try http://www.phoenixhubgearrepairs.co.uk/

wishing you luck,

Pete F.
by: 82.9.0.52

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Repairing K hub posted by Keith Body on 1/25/2009 at 1:21:51 PM
Are you sure that breaking the indicator chain (toggle chain) damaged the whole axle? More likely the K2 key broke as it is drilled for the N6/N7 to go through. It is now well over 40 years since I had a K type, and probably 50 since I repaired one. The main parts were unobtainable then. If it is only the control chain or the key (K2)in trouble it should be possible to shorten the chain a little, and make a key by drilling a hole in a suitable size nail, and cutting to length. The original key was hardened, but doesn't take much stress.
by: 195.93.21.98

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Repairing K hub posted by PRM on 1/25/2009 at 5:48:32 PM
Thanks very much for both of your replies... Maybe my description of the problem wasn't clear enough... A small tip of the part that screws onto the indicator chain is broken; I won't be able to screw in another indicator chain right now. This part is located deep inside the hub. Maybe this helps...

by: 74.67.50.47

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Repairing K hub posted by Pete F. on 1/26/2009 at 6:10:57 AM
Hi PRM -
Looking at this diagram : - http://www.hadland.me.uk/sa/k.pdf, can you identify for us the part number of the damaged part?, given that K1 is the whole axle? N7 is the litle rod (with an internal thread) fixed to the chain, N6 is the indicator screw (with fine external thread) that goes in from the LH end, N8 is a compression spring. Is it any of these parts that are damaged?

Regards,
Pete F.
by: 62.140.207.140

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Repairing K hub posted by Pete on 1/26/2009 at 10:59:29 AM
If you are in the UK look here
http://oldbiketrader.co.uk/index.php
Slightly down the page you will find under the heading sturmey archer links a mail address.Give him a try as he quoted me very reasonably to do my k series hub with brake.

by: 78.33.123.28

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Repairing K hub posted by Keith Body on 1/26/2009 at 11:37:42 AM
If I am right, the rod joined to the chain has broken off where it goes through the key and screws into the indicator rod which is seen on the other side of the hub. This indicator rod should pull out from the left side. It will have the broken piece of threaded rod still in the end. This was quite common when the parts were slightly overtightened. All you have to do is get the threaded bit out, quite possible. So you will only need the rod and toggle chain (one piece), if not I would silver braze the thread where it broke. The AW toggle/indicator screws into the key so doesn't fit, but others may.
by: 195.93.21.98

           RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Repairing K hub posted by Chris on 1/27/2009 at 3:56:38 PM
Keith is pure gold. I'm telling you!

We are so lucky to have you here, Keith. Thanks
by: 69.153.86.42

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Repairing K hub posted by PRM on 1/27/2009 at 7:44:41 PM
Ditto. Thanks again for all of your help... Much appreciated. Pete, I don't live in the UK, so Old Bike Trader doesn't seem very feasible but thanks for letting me know. Keith's advice should help me greatly...
by: 74.67.50.47




[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Frame Pump posted by: Mark on 1/24/2009 at 12:44:42 AM
Help please on a frame pump two part question! I have a 21.5" Raleigh Sports ('69) with pump pegs spaced 15.75"'16" apart on the downtube, as well as a 21.5" Raleigh Grand Prix ('77) that has no pump pegs. I'd like to get a frame pump that's interchangeable to both bikes, so I'm wondering if there's a retro looking, durable pump (preferably chrome or aluminum) that can fit on the downtube of the Sports as well as the seat tube of the Grand Prix? (Would I need to attach pump peg clips on the Grand Prix seat tube to match the spacing of the Sports pump pegs?) In researching, it looks to be that old Raleigh lightweights used Zefal HP's (HPX?) instead of Silcas, but those Silcas look awesome! Any recommendations on which one to purchase to share between the two bikes, or if there are better looking/functioning pumps out there? Thank you!
by: 67.149.88.45

  Replies:
           RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Frame Pump posted by David on 1/25/2009 at 5:33:52 AM
Most of the newer pumps you find have "feet" on one end that fit in one of the corners of the main triangle and don't fit correctly between two pegs. Obviously, you can use an old pump with the short hose [that fits the Sports] with the sort of pegs that fit around the frame tubes of the GP.
by: 216.15.114.27




[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   New Sturmey fixed 3 speed posted by: Warren on 1/23/2009 at 2:43:55 PM
I had missed this news...

http://www.cyclingnews.com/tech/2008/shows/interbike08/?id=results/interbike086

...with a bar end shifter?

http://tinyurl.com/dm6re6
by: 24.215.86.83

  Replies:
           RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:  A.S.C. 3 SPEED FIXED GEAR HUB IS BACK!!!!  New Sturmey fixed 3 speed posted by Chris on 1/23/2009 at 7:38:38 PM
This is the result of the long awaited revival of the classic Sturmey- Archer A.S.C. 3 speed fixed gear hub and it has a bar end shifter this time around. - But will it be offered in an alloy shell? Anyways, thanks a lot for showing and telling us about it.
by: 207.69.137.8

           RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   New Sturmey fixed 3 speed posted by David on 1/24/2009 at 7:28:24 PM
See http://www.sunrace-sturmeyarcher.blogspot.com for lots of info about the new S3X. Two shifters, 4 color options. No indication of whether an old trigger shifter will work with it (I'd like that, since I have a bike w/AW, FM, single/fixed wheels right now) or when it will actually be available. It will be wide ratio, not close like ASC.
by: 216.15.114.27

           RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   New Sturmey fixed 3 speed posted by Chris on 1/26/2009 at 8:41:16 AM
Whoops!!

What happened to the A.S.C. I saw a lot about it being re-introduced.
by: 71.40.121.165

           RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   New Sturmey fixed 3 speed posted by David on 1/26/2009 at 4:37:29 PM
Supposedly, it IS being "reintroduced," Chris and it's called the S3X. See the Sunrace website for details.
by: 216.15.114.27




[X]  Report inappropriate messages
............................................................

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   AW 3 question posted by: GregG on 1/23/2009 at 10:51:18 AM
Many years ago, at the Schwinn warehouse in the western suburbs of Chicago, I attended the Schwinn authorized mechanics class. One of the things that the instructor taught us was how to lock an AW 3 hub into a specific gear, without resorting to a hack such as cross threading a spoke into the end of the axle, and bending it over to hold the hub into a specific gear.

Obviously the hub ends up locked into 3rd by removing the cable, but there was a fairly easy way to lock the hub into the other two gears as well. I can't remember exactly what it was, perhaps flipping the clutch over?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm working at a non-profit that fixes up old bikes for the needy, and there's a lot of 3-speeds sitting around, but a severe shortage of cables, shifters & indicator chains.

I posted this question in this forum due to the large amount of help I've received in the past, and believing that this forum would have the most knowledge of the AW 3. I apologize in advance if I have selected the wrong forum for this question.

Best regards,
GregG
by: 209.252.69.66

  Replies:
           RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   AW 3 question posted by Warren on 1/23/2009 at 2:27:25 PM
Interesting question...let us know if you find the answer.
by: 24.215.86.83

           RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   AW 3 question posted by Chris on 1/24/2009 at 7:48:55 AM
flipping the clutch over is correct.
by: 207.69.140.22

           RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   AW 3 question posted by GregG on 1/25/2009 at 6:56:48 AM
Thanks for the reply. Do you know what gear you fix the hub in by flipping the clutch? And what do you have to do to get the other gear?
by: 64.105.8.34

...>>>>>>>> MORE MESSAGES >>>>>>>>



HOME (OldRoads.com) Discussion Areas Literature and Price Guide Cleaning Kit Glossary
Stat and Feature Database Picture Database Serial Number Charts General Resources