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AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by: Carl Brill on 5/1/2011 at 2:32:50 PM
Hello everyone,
I just found this site cause I just got a Raleigh Golden Arrow at the bike swap. It is in rough shape but everything works. My question is about the serial number, it is stamped with individual stamps on the seat tube lug, left side, but everything I've seen says there should be a letter prefix or suffix but it is only 154336. The other unusual thing about it is a very long seat tube, it goes 7 3/4 inches from the clamp to the bottom of the saddle clamp. The seat post is 12" overall with a dome top and was in the seat tube about 2 1/2 inches. With the extra long seat tube it fits me like a modern road bike, all bent over, but it fits so that is how its going to stay.
Any ideas about the serial number or any other comments?
Thanks, Carl
by: 72.95.102.105

††Replies:
†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by Keith Body on 5/2/2011 at 11:18:58 AM
Carl, Is this the Golden Arrow from the late 1930's?
If so there was a fashion for small frames and long seat pillars. I believe the 1937 model was only in 21 inch frame size. (always measured from centre of bottom bracket to top of seat lug)
by: 195.93.21.9

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by Carl Brill on 5/2/2011 at 12:27:51 PM
Keith, Thanks for the reply. The serial number does seem to indicate 1937. I am puzzled by the lack of a letter prefix or suffix. The stamping is also very rough and uneven. It's a great bike though, so rakish and fast looking. I am excited to work it over and ride it. Where are other good places to look for stuff about the Golden Arrow? Thanks alot for the info.
Carl
by: 72.95.102.105

†††††††††† RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 5/2/2011 at 8:58:39 PM
LOL... Carl.... in hearing from Mr. Body himself, you've pretty much touched base with the paragon of information pursuant to your recently acquired velocipede.

Keith is legend in this realm... but then, he may know of other places for you to look as well... if anyone would know... 'twould be Keith.

Meanwhile... sounds to me like you've acquired a most excellent machine.... so, as with pretty much all other postings of such a nature.... let me be the first to say....


PICTURES?!?!?!?!?!?!?!

;-)

Welcome to the Oldroads Realm. C'mon in.... have a seat, relax... you're in good company here!

Later!

Larry "Boneman" Bone - It's ALL Golden....

Dingmans Ferry, PA, USA
by: 24.102.170.149

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by Carl Brill on 5/3/2011 at 6:37:43 AM
Thanks for your reply Larry. Its great to find some other folks with the same interests. The guys at work get tired of hearing about it.

I will be adding pictures soon, I am convinced that I will let the magic smoke out of the computer machine if I mess up so I get my wife to coach me (she's very patient!) I did just manage to set up a Flikr acct with out blowing up the transformer out on the street so there's hope!

Carl

by: 72.95.102.105

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by Carl Brill on 5/3/2011 at 8:14:05 AM
Okay, now I am confused. I was just looking at serial number charts and could not find why I thought it was a 1937. Huh.

I will post photos of the serial number soon. It is very hard to make out. The number is not like any number I saw, the closest I saw was a six digit number only with the same first three digits, but that was for 1906 which this bike ain't, so... The number on the bike is (near as I can make out) 154336.

It is 21" from the center of the BB to the top of the seat post.

Huh. I bet we can figure out what year it is. In the final analysis it is just a great bike and I'm glad to have it year or no.

Thanks guys

Carl from the rocky coast of Maine
by: 72.95.102.105

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by Keith Body on 5/5/2011 at 12:30:26 PM
Carl, I tried to send you a picture, see if I can locate it from here.


by: 92.20.222.168


†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by Carl Brill on 5/7/2011 at 2:42:02 PM
Thats a terrific picture Keith, Thanks. That is what I've got, lovely. The seat was set VERY high when I got it and so it still is in the photos. If it was only offered in a 21" frame what did you do if you were tall? Ride another bike I guess

I am intimidated somewhat what I know how to not break things so I think I should be OK.

Anyhow here I think are the photos of what I got, I had to rotate some of them so it might take a day for them to show back up.

Later, Carl


by: 72.87.62.105


†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by Keith Body on 5/8/2011 at 2:53:45 AM
Carl, From what I can see it looks pretty good, saddle could be original, pedals obviously replaced (local laws?).
The head clip is normally opposite way round. Lauterwasser handlebar, but what SA gear, I would expect a very early AW. The earlier K type had the indicator rod on the left side of the hub, which could make it 1936. The fashion of the time was to have a small frame with a long seat pillar. If you look at modern road racers this is now common, but the top tube slopes upwards. Also I think people were shorter in the 1930's.
The large makers usually kept a small section of old hand builders using the methods that were abandoned in the 1920's as bikes got so much cheaper, often using cast lugs and butted tubing which make the bike so much better.
The mudguards are not original, the celluloid bluemels usually did not last more than a few years, and the replacement looks fairly near. Hope this helps.
Keith
by: 195.93.21.9

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by Carl Brill on 5/8/2011 at 2:10:44 PM
Keith, Thanks.

I wonder what direction to go, my wife and I are both pretty handy so I think we are going to recover the seat. It has been painted since it was new, and not that well. Petit makes a marine enamel called Bronze Green, almost black and "old fashioned" enough that it would not look at all out of place. I've seen it on a couple of old boats and it's beautiful.The spokes are very rusty but the rims (Dunlop 1 1/4) are okay, I could respoke them.

The picture of the Golden Arrow page from the catalog mentioned optional Raleigh white steel mudguards. ?.

How common are these bikes? How were they received at the time they were made? What would look good for a tire? Were they black by then? Or brown?

How would you all restore this bike? How much work would you put into it and to what level would you take it? I am for sure going to ride it. Is there anything it would be better to not mess with? I know that some things you can mess up the value by refinishing or modifying.
S

by: 71.173.95.220

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by Carl on 5/8/2011 at 5:03:00 PM
The SA hub just a K6 stamped on it. The valve stems are shaped like a Shraeder but threaded like a Presta all the way to the rim, with a knurled nut. Weird.
by: 72.87.62.233

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by Keith Body on 5/9/2011 at 1:46:39 AM
Carl, it looks like 1936, with the last of the K type gears. I don't have a 1936 catalogue copy, but might be one out there.
The large makers in the 1930's all made prestige bikes, very few sold. I have never seen one, although I suspect most in the UK would have rusted away or suffered in the war. Then frame angles steepened and it would look very "out of date".
The original spokes were probably black 15/17G double butted (1.8mm), about 11 1/4 inch, front crossed 3 rear crossed 4.
Some Raleighs did radial spoke the front wheel.
by: 195.93.21.9

†††††††††† RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by Carl on 5/9/2011 at 6:04:11 AM
Thanks Keith,
Could I ask your opinions on restoration? I am not looking quick resell it for profit, I want to keep it and ride it.
At the same time I don't want to do anything that would ruin its value in the future.

What is the head clip? You mentioned that it is usually the other way 'round.

Thanks Carl


by: 72.87.62.233

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by Keith Body on 5/9/2011 at 6:34:22 AM
Carl, I hope someone will advise on restoration to rideable rather than museum condition, I know what I would do in the UK, and it might depend on reasonable cost.
The headclip is an early way of clamping and adjusting the handlebar stem. The top of the fork column (steerer) is slotted so that the headclip holds the handlebar stem.
The fork column will be 1 inch, with the top 31/32 inch, with a short fine thread on the top for adjusting the head bearings.
Let's hope the K type gear is OK, it's over 50 years since I had one apart.
by: 195.93.21.9

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by Carl on 5/9/2011 at 6:48:54 AM
Keith, So far every all the bolts are coming very easy. Someone gave it some oil not that long ago. The cover to the oil port on the SA gear is missing so... hopefully.
I have a SA with the stamp 74 1 . I was thinking of reworking it before I opened up the older one to get more familiar with it. Do you think it would be similar enough to serve as a practice run ?
You said you know what you would do in the UK, I am interested to know what that is. I am definitely thinking "to rideable condition".
Anyone else have an opinion on ridable -v- museum? I sure don't have alot of money. I can usually come up with $50 or $100 a month to spend on bike stuff so...

Thanks guys
Carl
by: 72.87.62.233

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by David on 5/9/2011 at 7:26:51 AM
Definitely DO take a look inside an AW hub to see how things go together. I'm sure the K model is very similar in principle, though there may be small parts and details that are different. Glenn's bicycle repair manual covers overhauling Sturmey AW hubs and many libraries have it. Before removing the right hand ball race on the AW, make match marks between the ball race and the hub body so you can be sure it's rethreaded correctly since it has a double thread. But if the K hub shifts OK, I would not open it up. You can easily find new oil caps, or cannibalize one. Make sure the hub has oil and the shifter is adjusted properly and there's not much to concern yourself with. Good luck.
by: 216.15.114.27

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by Carl on 5/10/2011 at 4:40:26 AM
HA! This is kind of frustrating. I am also building right now a Cannondale M500 MTB. I've got some choosing to do about which bike needs my time. Luxury problems!

Paul Component Moto BMX brakes and some sort of trigger shifter. 2x9. Or 1x9. Kona steel fork.

This is great, I really appreciate all the feedback. For instance I just looked in my Glenns Complete Bicycle Manual and I am glad I probably won't have to take it apart.

Can you flush a 3spd with solvent somehow? Prior to giving it oil? It's rainy today and I don't have to work.
by: 72.87.62.233

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by Carl on 5/10/2011 at 8:35:23 AM
So uhh, bronze wool? Really? And whats that other stuff?
by: 72.87.62.233

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by Keith Body on 5/10/2011 at 10:46:24 AM
First some help on 3-speeds, look up hadland, and http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/'hadland/2tables.pdf
From memory, not much common to AW and K type, pawl springs? The springs can be made from a single strand of scrap brake cable.
If your AW is in a wheel it's easy to remove the end plate behind the cog, just tap gently with a flat chisel, but remember to mark where you start so that the 2 start thread goes back in the same place.

Paintwork. I would prefer to internally rustproof first, when did Raleigh start bonderizing? Could use some wax in a solvent that is used on vintage cars? or some more modern treatment. The boraz based flux residues can rust old frames internally, yours must be pretty good as it's still going. Some makers used a phosphoric treatment.
SA are really not as complicated as the diagrams make it look, but parts for K would be difficult.





by: 195.93.21.9

†††††††††† RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by Chris on 5/11/2011 at 8:28:15 AM
we use the bronze wool because it does not scratch.
by: 12.91.193.250

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by Carl on 5/12/2011 at 6:43:40 AM
What kind of oil for the SA hub? How much? Full?
by: 72.87.62.233

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by Keith Body on 5/12/2011 at 9:12:49 AM
Carl, A few drips might be enough. If you fill it the oil will run down the spokes and on to the inner tubes, and across the floor.
by: 92.21.77.76

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by Carl on 5/12/2011 at 6:58:30 PM
Thanks Keith, that Hadland site is something else, all those beautiful old derailers.
I came across reference to a 1921 Golden Arrow, do you know how long they were made? If mine (ha! Mine Mine MINE!!) was made in '36 as per the hub they had a good run already. I guess I'm just used to things being NEW NEW NEW !! every year that having a model last 15 years seems like a while.

Thanks for the info and posts everybody, keep it coming!
Carl
by: 71.173.95.74

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by Carl on 5/12/2011 at 7:34:38 PM
Alright, heres another one, whats with the brake cable assembly? Theres like what seven pieces all in one? I guess it make replacing them easy back then but it seems unlikly to find them now. The cable is fine and the fittings are all fine, the housing is pooched. So I learn to solder I guess, reassemble the cable and solder a wad on the end and file it to shape?

This friggin bike is all I can think about. ARRGGHH


by: 71.173.95.74

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by Keith Body on 5/13/2011 at 1:36:27 AM
Carl, the cable ends are brass nipples. If you get a standard inner cable with one suitable end, you can see how the ends are soldered on the old by gripping the inner cable, heating and gently tapping the brass nipple downwards. You will see a small mushroom shape of wire on the end of the inner. This can be reproduced, using corrosive flux on the steel. It is the lump of wire impregnated with solder that holds the nipple on, as soft solder alone would not.
by: 92.20.212.104

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by Carl on 5/15/2011 at 2:47:31 AM
Well, so far so good. Everything is coming apart very easily. I've got it down to frame and fork, the lock nut on the BB was stuck to the cup but they both came out together and the lock nut came off after a little soak.
I'm not going to repaint it (thanks all for caution). I've put the scratch remover to it and it is cleaning up nice. At this point I am not going to try too hard to get the repaint off.
So, about the chrome? Oxalic acid or....? And if so what are the times, concentrations and neutralizations that you all have used?
I will be posting more photos soon.
Thanks all, take it easy, Carl
by: 71.241.220.146

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by Carl on 5/16/2011 at 3:23:46 PM
hey yo,I just made a spanner for the top nut on the fork column. I have yet to try it out, tonight though. My co-worker said "but..hacksawing is hard." when I told him that I was making it.
So now I'm thinking about the chrome. I think the stem and seatpost are chrome also under the repainting.
Getting ball bearings for the BB tomorrow (and the new headset in my Cannondale!)
by: 71.241.220.146

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by Keith Body on 5/19/2011 at 1:43:32 AM
Carl, The top nut on the forks is only used to gently adjust the bearings, the head clip holds the handle bar stem and the top bearing in place. The top thread is 31/32 inch, the inside is 7/8 inch, so very little metal at the base of the threads. Also the slots to allow the headclip to pinch.
Not sure I like the oxalic acid corrosive effect on old steel tubing.
by: 195.93.21.9

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Golden Arrow, Unusual serial number posted by Keith Body on 5/20/2011 at 2:11:06 PM
Split infinitive in last post, just noticed, "to boldly go".
by: 92.20.204.71




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AGE / VALUE:†††About what year might this one be? posted by: Larry "Boneman" Bone on 4/30/2011 at 7:14:59 AM
Ebay item: 390302354984

Pretty amazing... though I doubt that headlight mounting is... standard....

Later!

Larry "Boneman" Bone - that's OLD

Dingmans Ferry, PA

by: 24.102.170.149

††Replies:
†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††About what year might this one be? posted by Chas on 4/30/2011 at 1:04:34 PM
Poor saddle, do I spy a replacement skin in pic#8 ?
by: 62.49.24.58

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††About what year might this one be? posted by Keith Body on 5/1/2011 at 1:29:02 PM
Larry and Chris, Not much to add here, the Lucas dynamo has to be late 1930's, but the bike must have been some odd export model to have one brake and no chrome parts.
Usually chrome plated parts indicate post 1930, but their absence? The leather chaincase is totally baffling. I thought they were early 1900's, but the bike is as described 1920's /30's. And the frame number doesn't fit. Could be a Raleigh subsiduary?
by: 195.93.21.9




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AGE / VALUE:†††ranger posted by: sam on 4/27/2011 at 7:54:55 PM
I don't have any details on this bike other than it's a Ranger.Looks to be a "B" grade Phillips or Raleigh sports(26" wheeled)with a vEEEEEry cool head badge
anyone know any details about sports Rangers?Could this be a dying breath of the Mead Rangers?
by: 99.158.7.231

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AGE / VALUE:†††help.... posted by: Jen on 4/27/2011 at 4:36:55 PM
If I email some pics can someone help me determine this bike that my parents had bought in the early 60's. My son wants to clean it up and get it working and possibly sell it. We are totally new to this so we don't understand some of the lingo (hubs etc...) I know the tires, fenders, handlebar,brakes etc lol. Thanks in advance.
Jen
by: 184.56.251.110

††Replies:
†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††help.... posted by Keith Body on 4/28/2011 at 6:56:20 AM
Jen, email the pics to me, as I am UK based I have very little knowlege about US bikes, but it will be a start.
by: 195.93.21.9




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WANTED:†††Fender stay screws. posted by: Thom J. on 4/26/2011 at 8:43:13 AM
I'm in search/need of two fender stay retaining screws for the front fender on my Trent Sports. I know the threading is different that regular metric screws and don't want to buy an entire box from a fastener supplier. Any of you good folks have a pair that you can spare or put me in contact with a person or firm that can supply in a small qty? Thx in advance, Thom.

by: 63.204.42.231

††Replies:
†††††††††† RE:WANTED:ÔŅĹÔŅĹÔŅĹFender stay screws. posted by Matthew on 4/27/2011 at 1:25:40 PM
Hi Thom,

They will be British Standard Cycle thread. I don't know if Vin holds a stock of them?

Matthew - started another thread
by: 86.149.30.69

†††††††††† RE:WANTED:†††Fender stay screws. posted by Thom J. on 4/28/2011 at 10:14:22 AM
Thx Matthew.....but how do I get in tough with Vin?

Thom.
by: 63.204.42.231

†††††††††† RE:RE:WANTED:†††Fender stay screws. posted by Vin - Menotomy Vintage Bicycles at OldRoads.com on 4/29/2011 at 3:51:55 AM
Hello Matthew and Thom,
Thom, we talked via email Ė sorry we are not shipping parts out of the US at this time.
-Vin

by: 71.174.125.242

†††††††††† RE:WANTED:†††Fender stay screws. posted by Keith Body on 4/29/2011 at 12:27:02 PM
Raleigh used their own thread with a hex head, close to 1 BA, can't remember exactly. Most other makers used a 3/16.
1BA was approx 5.3mm and 28 tpi.
I haven't handled one of these for over 50 years.
by: 195.93.21.9

†††††††††† RE:WANTED:†††Fender stay screws. posted by Thom J. on 5/3/2011 at 10:39:39 AM
Vin- I'm in the US not outside of it and no, I did not talk with you via e-mail since I just got back from holiday today. Keith, thx for the input, I will check with some of the fastener suppliers here in the US, guess I'll buy a small box.
Thom.
by: 63.204.42.231

†††††††††† RE:WANTED:†††Fender stay screws. posted by Keith Body on 5/3/2011 at 2:36:15 PM
Thom, I'll have to find my 0 to 1" mic, and thread gauges, in case I see an old Raleigh.
by: 195.93.21.9




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AGE / VALUE:†††Police bike posted by: Stephen Hogben on 4/24/2011 at 7:44:16 AM
As usual I popped down the New Haw C.I.U club a few weeks ago at dinnertime for a couple of pints,when a man I knew came in,knowing he was an ardent car boot seller I asked him about old bikes being sold,he said you like old bikes dont you? Yes I replied, no old bikes he said mountain bikes ,yes! Being Easter Sunday and got a day off went down the club again and in walked the same man.He came over to me and said "There was an old bike at the car boot today,it was a policmans bike,each policeman in those days was issued with his own bike,well this copper was issued with his bike 3 weeks before his retirement,now get this in 1898!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The bike completley,completely origonal including tyres for £160,I kid you not!Wow should have been at that car bootie!
by: 92.15.89.131

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†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Police bike posted by Chris, back again on 4/26/2011 at 5:51:00 PM
we would love to see pictures
by: 12.91.193.250




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FOR SALE:†††1969 Raleigh DL-1 posted by: John Salmon on 4/24/2011 at 6:56:37 AM
For sale in Philadelphia, PA. Local sales only.

In excellent condition, rides beautifully. I believe it's all original except newer tires and correct replacement grips. I have added a super nice Dutch-made "opafiets" rear rack which matches beautifully, and a front Wald basket.

Priced to move at $300
by: 68.236.43.139

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†††††††††† RE:FOR SALE:†††1969 Raleigh DL-1 posted by Nathaniel on 4/26/2011 at 12:48:07 PM
Any photographs of the bike? What size frame is it?
by: 209.120.230.194

†††††††††† RE:FOR SALE:†††1969 Raleigh DL-1 posted by Nick on 5/3/2011 at 4:13:36 AM
Any photographs? What size frame? What is the gear system?
by: 71.167.253.133




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AGE / VALUE:†††Need info on this bike posted by: raenell on 4/21/2011 at 6:08:40 PM
Just got this Schwinn "Miss Teen" bicycle at the thrift store; I am wondering what year it was made. I cannot find any information on this model.
by: 138.210.193.42

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†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Need info on this bike posted by jj on 4/22/2011 at 3:50:21 AM
Plenty of info in the archives here about that Miss Teen, use the Google search box here on OldRoads.

For the year of manufacture, find the serial number and look it up here under the Technical Resources tab above.


by: 71.184.108.33




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ENGLISH ROADSTERS:†††rear triangle deformation thoughts posted by: Roderic D. Schmidt on 4/15/2011 at 8:17:36 AM
Greetings All
I was wondering if anyone else has noticed that on older Sports bicycle, the rear wheel can often be nearly impossible to center. I'll center the wheel between the brakes and it rubs the seat stay, and if I center it between the stays the right brake pad is much closer than the left. Is there a trick I am missing? My current theory is that the stays are pulled slightly to the right by years of the uneven stresses the drivetrain causes, although I've done the string test on the a couple of the frames in question and come up with no obvious bends. When I invert the bike and loosen the nuts on the rear axle so it can rest at the bottom of the dropout, the wheel rubs the left chainstay.

Thanks in advance,
Roderic
by: 207.246.218.205

††Replies:
†††††††††† RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:†††rear triangle deformation thoughts posted by Keith Body on 4/15/2011 at 11:32:58 AM
Roderic, If the frame is straight then the wheel could be dished. The rim should run central over the rear axle spacing. It could need the spacing adjusted, bearing in mind the chain line, or the wheel could need the spokes loosened one side and tightened the other, or both.
by: 195.93.21.9

†††††††††† RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:†††rear triangle deformation thoughts posted by Roderic D. Schmidt on 4/15/2011 at 2:19:53 PM
Hi Keith- thanks for the tip. I'm going to check the frame one more time (the string I used last time was thick and fuzzy and may have hidden a small bend) and then I'll move onto the wheel. I had it trued not long ago, and checked the chainline, but clearly a second look is in order.

Thanks
Rod
by: 207.246.218.205

†††††††††† RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:†††rear triangle deformation thoughts posted by David on 4/15/2011 at 3:31:07 PM
Start with the wheel as suggested above. Verify that it can be centered between the chain stays. Work from there to center the brake over the rim.
by: 216.15.114.27

†††††††††† RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:†††rear triangle deformation thoughts posted by Roderic D. Schmidt on 5/23/2011 at 9:02:13 AM
So after monkeying around with the rear wheel a bit more, I discovered that if I am a little less draconian with chain tension I have enough play to center the wheel nicely. IThe chain has a lttle more slop than I was used to, but shouldn't come off, so I'll live with it!

Thanks again all,
Roderic
by: 207.246.218.205




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FOR SALE:†††1945 Rudge posted by: Jim on 4/13/2011 at 12:57:12 PM
A friend (the original owner) has asked me to post his 1945 Rudge Roadster with a 3 speed/dyno rear hub in nice all original (except seat)in burgundy for sale at $600. Feel free to call me at 860 670 4501 Jim
by: 75.194.255.21

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†††††††††† RE:FOR SALE:†††1945 Rudge posted by Chris on 4/13/2011 at 5:54:37 PM
what size wheels? cable or rod brakes? does it have a bell? can you provide some pictures of the bike?

thanks!
by: 12.91.193.250




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AGE / VALUE:†††book to take a look at read, borrow or buy posted by: Chris on 4/12/2011 at 5:40:59 PM
the book is by author: G. FRANCO ROMAGNOLI
THE BICYCLE RUNNER A MEMOIR OF LOVE, LOYALTY, AND THE ITALIAN RESISTANCE

ITALIAN AND WW 2 HISTORY
isbn#0-321-55454-0

perhaps we should add a section here called

italian roadsters? why not?


by: 12.91.193.250

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AGE / VALUE:†††worth taking a look at posted by: Chris on 4/11/2011 at 6:33:31 PM
take a look at item # 3103050187 and take a look at the other items this seller has up for sale

a lot of history, cycling history stuff we don't see offered

this is rare stuff, i am finding it interesting.
by: 12.91.193.250

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†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††worth taking a look at posted by Chris on 4/11/2011 at 6:41:59 PM
one thing leads to another, alton towers has a long history and the talbot car company is mentioned. i love chasing thru the old ads and all the stuff it leads to.

I'm looking for stuff we have not heard of yet.

piecing the history together one bit at a time.
by: 12.91.193.250

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††worth taking a look at posted by Steve on 4/12/2011 at 1:04:55 AM
Chris, can you double check the number please....I'm getting no joy at this end. Thanks.
Steve
by: 93.96.36.127

†††††††††† RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:†††worth taking a look at posted by chris on 4/12/2011 at 6:05:48 PM
ok try item # 180618419686

hercules letter original from 1933

my point is, there are lots of interesting historic letters, ads, newspaper clippings, prints much of it is offered by dealers of paper emphemeria? dealers who have history some of which has been forgotten or asleep for decades

e- bay is a history class
by: 12.91.193.250




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AGE / VALUE:†††Photos you just gotta see posted by: sam on 4/3/2011 at 6:16:58 PM
http://www.allartnews.com/totems-photos-by-alain-delorme/
by: 99.158.7.231

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†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Photos you just gotta see posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 4/4/2011 at 2:49:38 AM
Nice... I've seen similar. Guaranteed, if that were to be spotted here in the states, I'm sure the police would intervene.

Cool pics for sure. I bet our man Jeff has seen a few similar examples when he was in-country as well.

Later!

Larry "Boneman" Bone - Like bicycle Jenga in reverse....
by: 24.102.170.149

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Photos you just gotta see posted by JS on 4/18/2011 at 7:43:10 AM
Yep. I have seen many of those. The most amazing were in Guangzhou, where they for some reason, don't use trikes at all, but use bikes almost exclusively...bikes with some mighty high piles of stuff.

For some more ordinary cargo trike action, take a look at my blog here:

http://www.flyingpigeonproject.org/2010/03/electric-garbage-bikes-of-bejiing.html#tp
by: 170.34.104.12




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ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   DP Harris - Royal Crown - Rollfast - Need Help posted by: Brian on 3/27/2011 at 8:51:46 AM
Hello - I'm new to this forum, so Hello to everyone. If I'm asking this question in the wrong forum, please advise.

I'm new to vintage bicycles, however I respect the look, feel and that these bikes can be passed down from generation to generation.

This spring I'm going to restore (make ride able) two bikes. This first is a 1970 Schwinn for my wife, and the second is a Royal Crown - DP Harris Hardware and Manufacturing, for me. I've done some research on the internet, but could not find any reasonable information on the Royal Crown. I hope you can help me identify the year and provide a little more history on Royal Crown and DP Harris - all parts are stamped Made in England. The serial number is 12375 PO.

Thanks for any info.

Here are a few pics:
http://flic.kr/p/9tJvnd
http://flic.kr/p/9tJvvA
http://flic.kr/p/9tJvWs
http://flic.kr/p/9tFyhe
http://flic.kr/p/9tFyrt

by: 76.25.241.24

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†††††††††† RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:¬†¬†¬†DP Harris - Royal Crown - Rollfast - Need Help posted by Keith Body on 3/27/2011 at 1:44:29 PM
Your bike looks like a Phillips, or one of several other makers who did own name bikes. I have seen bikes with British badges that were made in the east, or even South America, but this looks British to me. Has the SA gear got a date on the shell?
Any name on the front hub, or bottom bracket bearings?
Wheels with british 32/40 spoking.
Frame numbers rarely help, unless the US importers kept them.
by: 195.93.21.9

†††††††††† RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:¬†¬†¬†DP Harris - Royal Crown - Rollfast - Need Help posted by Brian on 3/27/2011 at 3:14:08 PM
Keith - Thank you for such a quick reply.

Sorry for my lack of knowledge on terms, but I think you are referring to the SA Gear as SA = Sturmey Archer Gear Shifter. If this in not correct, can you advise. There is no date stamp on the gear shifter. It is a Sturmey Archer 3-speed.

1- The Spokes are 32/40 (Front/Back)
2- The Front Rim is marked Dunlop 26x1 3/8" - Made in England
3- The Front Hub is marked Made in England (no maker)
4- The bottom bracket is marked Sturmey Archer 3 speed (SW 57 7) With patents 28917/52 and 14118/53.

In regards to my year made question, I think #4 answered that (approximately July 1957??)

Almost every part of this bike is stamped marked Made in England.

If this is a Phillips, any good info? I'm going look for more at this great forum.

Thanks again for your knowledge. Much appreciated!
by: 76.25.241.24

†††††††††† RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:¬†¬†¬†DP Harris - Royal Crown - Rollfast - Need Help posted by Jeff on 3/27/2011 at 6:14:48 PM
The front forks are Phillips. If the threaded holes for the rear fender stayes are above the rear axel the frame is also Phillips. Raleigh frames place the rear fender stay screws behind the axel. Check the bottom bracket races and retaining rings. They should have Phillips stamped on them. Threading for the front forks and bottom bracket on a Phillips bike is 24 tpi. On a Raleigh it is 26 tpi.
by: 24.177.62.122

†††††††††† RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:¬†¬†¬†DP Harris - Royal Crown - Rollfast - Need Help posted by Matthew on 3/27/2011 at 11:36:02 PM
Hello there,

The Headbadge is a poor attempt at a Royal Enfield lookalike and the bicycle is one of those multitudinous British Made (often by Phillips)bicycles which were made for U.S. companies such as Sears and other large stores. This one was made for the Harris Hardware and Manufacturing Company.

Info from http://www.nostalgic.net/rollfast.htm
Rollfast bicycycles have a long and complex history that has close ties between two different company. The D.P. Harris Hardware and Manufacturing Company originated the name in the 1890's, and later teamed up with the H.P. Snyder Manufacturing Company in the early 1900's. Snyder was the primary manufacturer of the bicycles, while Harris provided some of the parts and marketed them. During the Great Depression, Snyder began manufacturing bicycles for other retailers such as Montgomery Ward who sold them under the Hawthorne name. Some sought after Snyder built Rollfast bicycles are the V-200 model and the Hopalong Cassidy bicycles. Snyder built Rollfast bicycles well into the 1970's.

Hope this info is useful.

Matthew - still searching
by: 86.156.237.51

†††††††††† RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:¬†¬†¬†DP Harris - Royal Crown - Rollfast - Need Help posted by Brian on 3/28/2011 at 8:09:24 AM
Thank you all for your help and knowledge.
As I've started researching these older bikes, I'm starting to find a deeper appreciation for them - the lines, the hardware, the history, the craftsmanship, etc. I can see why you enjoy them so much. I look forward to starting a new hobby this spring.

Best Wishes!
by: 76.25.241.24




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AGE / VALUE:†††Leatheries vintage saddle No. 711 posted by: Beth on 3/21/2011 at 1:19:25 AM
Hi,

I recently replaced the saddle on my secondhand bike and found the old saddle (it was under a cover) to be a Leatheries No.711. I found out that leatheries was taken over by brooks in 1930's so I'm assuming it's pre-1930's, but I can't track down any more info. Can anyone tell me the age and value of this saddle?

Cheers, Beth

by: 110.174.208.148

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†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Leatheries vintage saddle No. 711 posted by Keith Body on 3/21/2011 at 10:24:09 AM
Beth, from memory, Brooks kept the name going as a cheap line.
by: 195.93.21.9

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Leatheries vintage saddle No. 711 posted by Kevin on 3/22/2011 at 7:11:33 AM
I bought a Raleigh trade bicycle a few years ago that had a Leatheries saddle. The saddle looks like an exact duplicate of Brooks' massive B10-E model, with the twisted coil springs. Based on what Keith said, it must have been manufactured before the Brooks takeover, because it doesn't appear to be a lower-priced model.
by: 72.12.209.226

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Leatheries vintage saddle No. 711 posted by Keith Body on 3/22/2011 at 8:14:37 AM
The Leatheries (Brooks) saddles we had in the UK were supplied mainly to manufacturers, and were a cheaper line. The quality of leather varies, it is a natural product, and they used lesser quality areas of the hide. The metal frames could well have been the same.
by: 195.93.21.9

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