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Bicycle Swap Meet, Sunday 23-OCT-2016, Dudley, MA
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Customs, Lowriders, HPV, Recumbent

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FOR SALE:   St.Louis Swap Meet posted by: AviationMetalSmith on 1/23/2004 at 6:24:27 PM
The third annual St. Louis Regional Bicycle Federations Bike Swap Meet will take place on Sunday , February 15, from 12:00 to 3:30 PM , at the old KMart in Deer Creek Center, 3200 Laclede Station Road in Maplewood. Admission is $3. An Early Bird admission of $10 will get you in the doors at 11:00 AM.
SHOW YOUR BIKE: $5 per entry in one of three catagories; Stingrays, Pre1944War, and 1945 to 1975.
Contact Dan Schmitz 636-271-2600 or dan@elabelinc.com for more information


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LOWRIDERS:   FIRST BORN posted by: NICK on 1/23/2004 at 1:44:11 AM
Just bought a new 26" bike frame, good cond. I'm new to this new LOWRIDER thing and I need help customizing....I have several ideas but don't know how to put them to play....I'm open to suggestions. I'm stationed in Japan Email me GARCIAN@KITTY-HAWK.NAVY.MIL...THANKS.


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WANTED:   fake gas tanks posted by: snabby on 1/22/2004 at 12:00:53 AM
Does anyone know where I can get fake gas tanks? I'm looking for the sportster or "peanut" type tank found on old choppers. A good example of what I mean can be found on a chopper bike at wildwheelwerks.com. The bike is white and there are three photos of it. The www crew weren't very helpful when I asked. If you know how to make a tank from foam or wood, please please please tell me! I am not interested in tanks with a lip on the bottom like the Calicruzer motorized bikes or a Warlord cycles coffin tank.

          RE:WANTED:   fake gas tanks posted by AviationMetalSmith on 1/23/2004 at 6:23:04 PM
You want to know how to make one out of foam? Go to a lumber yard and get a 2'x8' board of the colored styrofoam (not the white stuff- the white is made of little beads and they come apart as you sand it). You may get one inch or two inch thickness, but you will probably want to glue pieces together to make the tank three or four inches wide.
Use EPOXY to glue the styrofoam. You can get epoxy at a hobby shop that sells Radio Control (RC) Aircraft.
Carve the foam into the shape of a gas tank so it fits the bike frame. Use epoxy to laminate the shape with some FIBERGLASS. (Other experts recommend using spandex, since it will conform to the shape easier, and it's not really going to demand high strength.)
When using epoxy make sure you MIX THOROUGHLY and in the exact ratio recommended. Most epoxy resins are 1:1 ratio resin to hardener. If you use three ounces of resin(part A) use EXACTLY three ounces of hardener(part B). Failure to mix epoxy correctly will leave you with chemical glop that will never harden. You only have twenty minutes to work with epoxy from the time you mix it till it gets too sticky to work with (Called"pot-life"). WEAR disposable LATEX GLOVES so you don't get any epoxy on your fingers.
I mix my epoxy in a tray designed for paint rollers, as in painting a room in your house. This makes it so much easier to get your gloved hands in than a bucket.

          RE:WANTED:   fake gas tanks posted by David on 2/13/2004 at 10:08:06 PM
Snabby- Check out Coast Airbrush on the web it is under Vintage Choppers, they should have everything you need for a chopper. Perfect tanks for 100 bucks, all types and they seem to have a smooth line at the bottom. The best I have found on the web. Better looking choppers than Warlord.

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FOR SALE:   Update: more cycles and some price changes. posted by: Menotomy Vintage Bicycles, Inc. at OldRoads.com on 1/14/2004 at 9:18:28 PM
We've posted some more vintage bicycles and reduced the prices on some which have been getting 'stale'.
Have a look by clicking on 'Bicycles for Sale' at the top of this page.

Vin - Menotomy Vintage Bicycles, Inc.


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MISC:   So today I was at wal mart.. posted by: Harry on 1/14/2004 at 3:22:08 AM
and I was cruising the bikes, and saw a lowrider type bike. It was of interest, and I think I might pick it up, its cheap and all, but itd be a great alternative to riding my stingray down at the park...I can just peel all those crappy stickers off and I think it'd be a decent bike.



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CUSTOMS:   MODERN CRANK FOR A CLASSIC BALLOONER posted by: william on 1/9/2004 at 11:04:37 PM
I was wondering if anyone can help me. I want to make a customized Monark Cruiser using a S. Deluxe frame, (boys). I want to put a modern MTB crank set on it and add clipless pedals. Can this be done? And how? What names of manufacturers do I need to know for parts? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

          RE:CUSTOMS:   MODERN CRANK FOR A CLASSIC BALLOONER posted by Mike on 1/11/2004 at 12:58:34 PM
You're going to need an adapter kit to convert the americian
bottom bracket to a thread euro style bottom bracket. The
kit consists of two pieces that replace the two pressed in
bearing cups with the threading for euro bearing cups and three
or four bolts and nuts to retain the two pieces. Then just
slap in any triple mtn bike crank set. The second option is to
go with a tubular steel BMX crank that has 9/16 inch pedal
threading for SPD's and use a one piece crank style triple
chain wheel. Tubular steel cranks have very little flex and
make for a very "direct" power application, they also look very
cool. There are more options but these are the simplest. Mike

          RE:RE:CUSTOMS:   MODERN CRANK FOR A CLASSIC BALLOONER posted by William on 1/13/2004 at 1:04:16 AM
Thanks Mike, I appreciate it.

          RE:CUSTOMS:   MODERN CRANK FOR A CLASSIC BALLOONER posted by edgarecks on 1/14/2004 at 4:15:15 PM
Here's one of the conversion sets from ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3653723343&category=7295
Local bike shops should have them, too, it's commonly used in BMX bikes, but will fit most cruisers, too.

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CUSTOMS:   Triple trees posted by: snabby on 1/5/2004 at 10:45:32 PM
I need info on how to build triple tree frontends for my school chopper! Any info on building them would be great. If you know where I can get triple trees or a murray firecat or another type of bike with a triple tree frontend for under $100 tell me please! Condition doesn't matter.

          RE:CUSTOMS:   Triple trees posted by Stacey on 1/6/2004 at 6:59:23 PM
Unless you have access to a metal fab shop with lathes, milling machines and the like, building a clean and safe triple tree fork is going to be difficult. Even then by the time you scrounge all the materials you're looking at a substantial cash outlay. I'd seriously consider buying one similar to the one shown here http://www.pschoppers.com/photogallery/32613.jpg

A clean looking job and very affordable.

          RE:RE:CUSTOMS:   Triple trees posted by snabby on 1/6/2004 at 8:45:18 PM
As a matter of fact stacey, the school metal shop has three lathes one manual milling machine, and a small CNC milling machine that is used for machinable plastic, but I think the bit can be changed out. However, I wan't to build a longer springer setup. If I bought those forks, they would need to be lengthened and I would need the right springs to convert the rigid forks into springer forks. With all the machines, I am sure I can make some triple trees, but not out of aluminum. Got any help?

          RE:RE:RE:CUSTOMS:   Triple trees posted by Stacey on 1/7/2004 at 1:01:29 PM
Gee, that's a pretty tall order! It's great that you have sccess to all that shop equipment but I feel this is going to be one of those drafting table builds where you start with the steer tube and measure as you go... starting with the steering stem.

Personally, I'd design it to utilize readily available interface parts such as cups, cones and bearings. From there on it's a matter of combining creativity & skill along with equipment and materials limitations added for a touch of flavor.

As far as materials spec... Steel steering stem of a threadless design (very visualy clean and opens your horizons for riser & bar design) 3/4 or 1" alum plate for the triple trees (steel = Heavy, aluminium can be nicely polished and is strong enough for Superbike racing) 1" dia ChroMo fork tubes, 3/16" steel plate for the fork ends and rocker plates, Since you mention triple trees I'm asuming a Harley style springer as opposed to a Schwinn, there fore make sure to use a sholdered bolt or bronze bushings at the rocker along with nylon washers to reduce stiction and LOCK-NUTS to hold the bottom end together. Top it off with a stack of automotive valve springs, they should do well for managing wheel travel (there's a variety of tensions, lenghts and diameters to choose from to give you the desired quality of ride)

The rest is up to you. Let'ssee some pic's when you've finished :-)

          RE:RE:RE:RE:CUSTOMS:   Triple trees posted by Snabby on 1/7/2004 at 10:31:24 PM
Thanks for you're reply stacey. What do you mean by cones? I don't think that the shop has 3/4 inch plate, but it has 3/8 inch plate. Would that be strong enough? The shop doesn;t have ANY aluminum except for some solid tubing that is at the most only a foot long. For the triple trees, I thought about buying the forks that you mentioned at p.s choppers, but the tubes weren't long enough. I figured that if I bought the trees by themselves, I could add tubing which would be kind of easy. Then I could focus on the bottom part of the springer. Are you sure a couple of valve springs would support the frontend? I know that they are pretty stiff, but it doesn't seem like they would be stiff enough. If I decide to make triple trees, I would start with some 3/8 inch or thicker steel plate. I would cut two pieces to the correct shape, then I would drill two holes for the steering tube, but not all the way through. I would then tap the holes and I would tap a cut piece of tubing on both ends.(steering tube) Then I would drill two small holes near the steering tube for some external stops. The stops would be secured on the top of the upper tree, and on the bottom of the lower tree with nuts. once that was finished I would drill the holes for the forks. The top of the forks would be threaded, (likewise for the two tube holes on the top tree) so the fit good. I would then weld two plates (3/8 or thicker) on the bottom of the tubes. I would then shape the two rocker plates out of the same thickness plate. Holes would be drilled of course. For the two spring tubes, I plan to twist some square stock. The bottom ends would be milled down to fit the rocker plates and would be secured with locite and lock nuts. I would attach some plate to the lower tree to hold the springs. Another plate would be welded to the top ends of the square stock, and holes will be drilled in both of the plates for matching diameter gooseneck bolts that will pass through the springs to hold them on place. If my idea seems unsafe, please tell me. By the way stacey, do you build motorcycles? You seem to be filled with knowledge of motorcycle parts.

          RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:CUSTOMS:   Triple trees posted by Stacey on 1/8/2004 at 12:39:42 PM
Not a problem Sanbby... Though we need an understanding. You get a good grade on this you share it with me, a bad grade you forget I exist, OK? LOL

Cones= Inner bearing races, that which adjusts bearing preload to eliminate play.

3/8 would probably be strong enough... if you're planning to weld the stationary tubes in place. But why limit yourself to what the school has on hand? Jesse James and those lame azzed wankers a OCC would build some pretty weak stuff if they limited themselves to what the school had, wouldn't they? Go to a metal recycling yard, 'splain to them what you're doing and ask 'em if they have a piece of thick alum plate to do the job. Chances are, if they're cool joes they'll give you the freakin metal. Take it to school and start hoggin' away on that milling machine.

3/8 on the rockers is over kill... think of the weight too. 3/16-1/4" should be plenty strong... look at the rear drop-outs on your bike. Keep the fit at your pivot points snug, any amount of play will be magnified at the wheel. That's why I suggest using shouldered bolts and bushings.

Will valve springs be strong enough? Think Hemi, L-88, 351 Clevleand. Two stacks of progressive wound springs will be enough to do the trick... unless you weigh 300 pounds, which in that case I'd rethink the whole idea.

No, I don't build motorcycles. Though I did spend about 15 years in the trade at the parts counter selling the big four Japanese lines and BMW. I've always had an interest in kustom bikes & cars, and been a fan of GP motorcycle racing since before Kurtis Roberts was a twinkel in his papa's eye.

Remember, you can build it fast or you can build it right... but don't build it cheap.

Now go out there and make your mama proud.

          RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:CUSTOMS:   Triple trees posted by Snabby on 1/8/2004 at 8:15:44 PM
Hey stacey. I appreciate your replies very much and I thank you for writing back. Some other people on this site write once and it seems like they never check their mail. I wan't to make the fork tubes removable, so I was thinking about making some trees that can be found on phatcycle triple tree forks. There aren't many or any metal recycling yards around where I live, so I don't think I can get aluminum unless it is ordered. Where do you get your aluminum? Do you have a recycling yard around? If you do maybe I can call them for a free piece of plate. Apparantly you approve of my triple tree idea. All I need is a gooseneck bolt, a threadless headset, some metal and a couple nuts and bolts and I will be good to go.

          RE:CUSTOMS:   Triple trees posted by sam on 1/9/2004 at 6:07:17 PM
Not long enough? go to http://www.3gbikes.com/no_flash.html click on bikes &stuff then go to Forks---take a look at the Imperial. Also you can use those Schwinn style springs(just the springs) and buy them chromed plated from BicycleDon at petribike@hotmail.com they cost about $8 each---sam

          RE:RE:CUSTOMS:   Triple trees posted by JimW. on 1/14/2004 at 7:43:06 AM
Brad Graham has a triple tree fork design in his new how-to book- "Atomic Zonmbie's Bicycle Builders Bonanza". It's made of steel electrical conduit, like all his designs, and it looks reasonably simple to make. The fork legs are removable. Run a search on Amazon.com for it, or wait for the book review in the next issue of BikeRod&Kustom, which will have a "buy it now" button to Amazon for it. It's discounted at $17.95 and is a bargain. He has instructions for making all sorts of wild and crazy bikes, including a chopper with triple-tree.

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CUSTOMS:   old disk brake posted by: nick on 12/18/2003 at 4:46:30 PM
what up all. frist off i would like to say that this site rocks. but lets get down to business. i have a mid 60's schwinn sting-ray jr that i turned into a trike. eventually i wanna put an air ride system on it. but right now i am looking for an old disk brake that i can chrome out and put on the front fork. any info would be great. also i am working on a tandem bike that i made in to a single person and is going to be made into a chopper. hopefully ill have pictures soon. peace nick public nuisance b.c.

          RE:CUSTOMS:   old disk brake posted by AviationMetalSmith on 12/19/2003 at 4:09:06 PM
Two things come to mind:
1-Disk brakes for bicycles haven't been around that long.
2-Chrome will just scrape off when you use the brakes. It's better to just let the brake pads polish the disk by using the brakes.
Just my 2 cents.

          RE:CUSTOMS:   old disk brake posted by gearhead on 12/29/2003 at 5:38:21 AM
about the best way that i have found to check out disk brake parts is to go to sites that carry mountain bike parts. local bike shops can help you out too by giving you some names of manufactureres to check out. air ride sounds cool youll have to throw up some info on it for us.

          RE:RE:CUSTOMS:   old disk brake posted by JimW. on 12/29/2003 at 5:26:09 PM
Shimano made a disc brake back in the '70s. You can still find NOS ones various places. Team bike had them for about $40, last time I looked. I agree that it's a bad idea to chrome the disc.

          RE:RE:RE:CUSTOMS:   old disk brake posted by Rick on 1/3/2004 at 5:50:36 AM
You might want to go drum brake instead. They are easier to find at a good price.
They don't have the look of a disk, but they also have that giagantic hub, which is an eye catcher.

          RE:CUSTOMS:   old disk brake posted by ziggy on 1/7/2004 at 2:39:00 AM
If you go to www.Warlordcycles.com, you will find a clean disc brake setup w/rotor and caliper, but no cable. The price is a somewhat steep 250$, but if you are beating your brains looking for one, this site might be your best bet.

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CUSTOMS:   i need custom wheels posted by: duggless on 12/12/2003 at 6:16:55 AM
I build custom chopper bikes from the ground up and i need wheels or parts.If anyone can point me in the direction of a good plce to look it would be appreciated.I am mainly looking to build a 20" radial laced wheel with multiple gears and disc brake setup. I always have a hard time finding things I need because of how particular I am. If there is anyone interested in a real chopper bike throw up a message. I build them to look like real motorcycle choppers and can even do real looking springers.these dont look like the chopper bikes you see else where. these are real chopper bikes.

          RE:CUSTOMS:   i need custom wheels posted by Stacey on 12/12/2003 at 3:39:24 PM
Got a web site where we can see your work? Those forks sound kewl!

          RE:CUSTOMS:   i need custom wheels posted by duggless on 12/13/2003 at 4:55:07 PM
no i dont have a web site right now, that is something that i need to do yet.i spend most of my time in the shop so i havent got too much outside work done yet.if you are really interested in them you can e-mail me your address and i can mail you some photos of the one that i am working on now.im goin old school hot rod looks with orange spoke wheels,ww tires,a tall shifter with an 8 ball for changing gears and a flat black with yellow and orange flames.its a hot looking bike.

          RE:RE:CUSTOMS:   i need custom wheels posted by gearhead on 12/29/2003 at 5:49:00 AM
thanks metlhed. i couldnt find exactly what i was looking for but thaey do have some hot wheels.it got my gears turning for the next bike project.

          RE:CUSTOMS: i need custom wheels posted by Jason on 5/29/2004 at 5:58:29 AM
Hi, did you ever find a wheel for your project? Id like to see some pics of your work if possible. If you havent found a wheel I might be able to help, let me know.

Take care, Jason

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CUSTOMS:   first Cruise in 2004 posted by: Sebastian on 12/11/2003 at 11:18:02 AM
this goes out to all Europeans on this board:

on february 7th 2K+4 there will be the first big cruise in 2K+4. It's called the "EisbeinCruise" and it's organized by the "KrazyKrauts C.C." and "LowStylez B.C.". It'll be in Hannover/Germany. We meet at the local railway station at 2.00PM and cruise the city. After we're getting cold enough we gonna hit the "Heartbreak Hotel" (a rockabilly bar downtown Hannover) and have some cold ones or two. Maybe there's gonna be a little 1/8mile dragracing in different classes (singlespeed (20inch, 24 inch, 26inch), 3 speed (20inch, 24 inch, 26inch), more speed ....) or whatever people want. Note: this is an inofficial cruise - just a little meeting to show them peps what HARDCORE cruizing is all about.

So get your bike (lowrider, cruiser, custom, BMX - whatever) and come down to Hannover/Germany to have some fun in the snow.

Sebastian °LowStylez B.C. Germany°


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CUSTOMS:   frontend posted by: Evan Schwarz on 12/5/2003 at 8:07:27 PM
This is for sam. I plan to use a 20'' stingray frame for this project. I should consider raking the head tube shoudn't I. The springer woudn't have to have such a dramatic curve then. The only mods I would do on the frame is adding some structural support to the gap between the headtube and the bottom frame tube if I rake the head tube. What I forgot to mention in the last message is that the two bottom tubes on the springer will hopefully be fabricated from 1/2'' inside diameter tubing with a 2 to 3 mm wall thickness.

          RE:CUSTOMS:   frontend posted by sam on 12/7/2003 at 11:11:09 PM
First--I'd consider using a murray or AMF 20" frame instead of a stingray just based on cost/value.For a kustom the murray/amf frame will look just as good.Second ,yes rake the headtube.Cut the top tube and down tube a little behind the headtube and "flip" the head tube over.Use a seat post to make internal splice tubes and brasz the frame back together.---sam

          RE:CUSTOMS:   frontend posted by gearhead on 12/29/2003 at 5:46:25 AM
just a little info. watch how much tou rake it. if you go to far youll bend the forks no matter what. that was a big problem with old chopper motorcycles. i used solid tool steel bars to make mine with.they are very strong but very hard to bend and shape. combined with trees made from quarter inch plate steel and reinforcing the neck area i have a very strong springer and frame

          RE:RE:CUSTOMS:   frontend posted by Evan Schwarz on 1/7/2004 at 2:45:59 AM
Gearhead, the only problem I have is that the school shop doesn't have any solid tool steel. The school has mild steel tubing in a variety of diameters and a few different wall thicknesses. By the way, I wouldn't have a rake over 46 degrees, so I don't think that bent forks would be a problem. I am also at a loss for triple trees. I need to either buy or build them and I need help. The shop has three lathes, a large milling machine, and a small CNC milling machine. I have the skill to operate the listed machinery, but I need tips.

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CUSTOMS:   frontend posted by: Evan schwarz on 12/4/2003 at 2:06:03 AM
I am building a long springer frontend for a school project chopper. It will be four to five feet long with house twisted square stock. I am looking for any tips or suggestions on building it. It will be set up like a stingray springer, except the curve on the bottom tubes will be different so the bike isn't riding vertical. Any tip of tubing diameter, wall thickness, or any other info to make this springer structurally sound

          RE:CUSTOMS:   frontend posted by Stacey on 12/4/2003 at 11:32:11 AM
Not being a structural engineer, I can't offer specific dimensions. However, it would seem that some 'triangulation' should be built in to the fork. This would not only make the fork inherently stronger it would also tend to stiffen it up as well.

Find an old Chopper Motorcycle magazine from the 60's & 70's look for a bike sporting a 'girder' frontend you'll see what I mean.

          RE:CUSTOMS:   frontend posted by sam on 12/4/2003 at 5:14:49 PM
Good project.What size and style of frame will this chopper be built from? Do you plan and mods to frame?The reason I ask is 4 to5 feet on a 20" frame you would need a lot more curve in the fork that if a 26" frame were used.And will this bike be rideable--or lowrider art?---sam

          RE:CUSTOMS:   frontend posted by Sledbikes on 1/24/2004 at 8:35:06 AM
ok old school chopper has a 75 degree built in rake. its also 7-1/2 feet long on a 20 inch frame. lastly its made from good ole conduit pipes. its a very strong fork but regardless of size or design the main factor is the "SPRING" return ive built various lenghts of springers even at 4ft it gave a very almost unrideable spongy ride. for tubing i go for 1/2(struts) and 3/4 tubing(bottom)(ovaled). like stacey also said triangulation is key to the design its also the basis for how much rake you want.

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WANTED:   Rare Bikes? posted by: AviationMetalSmith on 11/22/2003 at 7:29:06 PM
I think my Lowrider BMX is rare because I don't see too many BMX bikes with a banana seat. Am I wrong? let me know if you got one.
Also the fiberglass Ladies bicycle I built is rare. I only know of one other fiberglass bicycle (the Bowden Spacelander) and the company only built a Mens model.

Let's try to keep the discussion to rare bikes.
What makes your bike rare?

          RE:WANTED:   Rare Bikes? posted by JimW. on 12/1/2003 at 7:01:10 AM
I've got the BMX with the banana saddle http://mywilson.homestead.com/gallery86.html
But I doubt that that combination is particularly rare.
Most of my bikes have a lot of fiberglass in them, but I've never felt the need to make one of 100% glass. Nowadays, if I wanted to make an all-composite bike, I'd use carbon fiber instead of glass, since you need a lot fewer layers of cloth and resin for the same structural result. Actually, the Wizard Bros. Dragster,which is on the current production schedule, will use carbon fiber cloth over urethane foam for its main structure.

The worst part of composite bike work is the Bondo part. Dave and I are finishing the bodywork of CandiruKustom, and we've been Bondo-ing and sanding for 3 days, so far, with a couple of days to go. The right side's finished, and it looks fabulous, though, so I guess it's worth the hassle.

          RE:RE:WANTED:   Rare Bikes? posted by AviationMetalSmith on 12/1/2003 at 2:47:56 PM
Bondo took me 300 hours on one bike. Most streamlined recumbents take more than 1000 hours of sanding.
Carbon fiber can indeed take less layers than glass, What I want to know is; If the fiberglass ladies bicycle weighs 55 pounds , what would a carbon fiber ladies bicycle weigh?22 pounds? just a guess. Has Anyone EVER built a carbon fiber ladies bicycle? I don't think the manufacturers deliberately discriminate against women, but rather it's impossible to build.

          RE:RE:RE:WANTED:   Rare Bikes? posted by JimW. on 12/2/2003 at 6:09:00 AM
There would be considerable weight savings on the frame itself, but the components would weigh the same, so it might not be a 50% weight savings.

I see nothing impossible in building a carbon ladie's bike. Any design geometry which will function in metal tubing will also work in carbon fiber/foam. The Antilope carbon MTB planset we reviewed a couple of years ago had alnost a step-through frame.

The reason hi-tech bikes are normally of the "male" pattern is that ladies into that sort of biking don't normally wear skirts while doing it. Seen in that light, the traditional ladies' bike pattern is archaic and unnecessary.

Mind you, I'm very fond of the step-thru frame pattern. My last kustom (Killer Swan) was based on that sort of frame.

When I was giving KS its first road test, I almost broke my neck. On my first dismount, I forgot two things- (1)It's a step-thru frame, and (2) It has a tall sissy bar. So, on my first dismount, I attempted to hoist my leg over the saddle, in the usual way, and my leg banged into the sissy bar, which shocked me to the extent that I started to fall over. Fortunately, I was able to catch the bike before the metalflake hit the pavement.

Candiru, the current project bike, is great for dismounts. Being a stretch-proportioned semi-recumbent, its saddle is only 24" off the pavement, making for a very low threshold to hoist one's leg over. Of course, on its first test ride with the bodywork in place, I'll probably bang my foot into its rear fender, which is taller than the saddle.

          RE:WANTED:   Rare Bikes? posted by Matt on 4/15/2004 at 1:21:40 AM
i have a Vita-Sprint bicycle hand made in france, mint condition, not sure of year, but old. wondering if anyone new anything about it. thank you

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WANTED:   Giant Revive posted by: AviationMetalSmith on 11/22/2003 at 7:20:45 PM
I found out the handlebars on the Giant Revive can be adjusted forward so you can stand on the pedals. Are there any other recumbents that can do this?
I'm thinking of selling my current recumbent (Worksman Y3K) so I can make room for one in my living room.

I usually ride my lowrider BMX because I can stand on the pedals.Last week I broke the bolt that holds the right crank on, while coming up a hill.


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WANTED:   BIKE CLUB posted by: JAMES MACIAS on 11/19/2003 at 3:03:04 AM


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