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Customs, Lowriders, HPV, Recumbent

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AGE / VALUE:italian folding bicycle posted by: Joe on 11/15/2003 at 3:32:59 PM
I have a vintage italian folding bike that I think may or may not be worth something. I am interested in finding someone who can fill me in about it. I love this bike, and I want to be riding it, but if I'm going to hurt it by spiffing it up myself I don't want to do that. Please email me with any help. Thanks


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FOR SALE:motorized 20inch lowrider bicycle posted by: Jeremy on 11/1/2003 at 3:01:18 AM
Check out Cali Cruzer for custom motorized bicycles at www.calicruzer.com. Bike built with a 48cc gas 2-stroke motor makes 2 horsepower. New Cali Cruzer model available. Motorized 20inch lowrider bicycle. The coolest bike in town! Many options available. WWW.CALICRUZER.COM


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CUSTOMS:The New BikeRod&Kustom posted by: JimW. on 10/25/2003 at 10:35:12 PM

          RE:CUSTOMS:The New BikeRod&Kustom posted by me on 10/26/2003 at 9:31:03 PM
I didn't see anything new there. Just the Last issue.

          RE:RE:CUSTOMS:The New BikeRod&Kustom posted by JimW. on 10/27/2003 at 12:31:03 AM
You might try clicking on your browser's "refresh" tab. The new cover page was in place and working before I made the above post.

          RE:RE:RE:CUSTOMS:The New BikeRod&Kustom posted by JimW. on 10/27/2003 at 2:35:54 AM
For those who still require training wheels on their internet (specifically, those who haven't mastered entering their usual screen-name and E-mail address in their post). The page to click on the "refresh" button is the index page. This is the one with the "ENTER" bar on it. That bar is what we net-savvy folk call a "linked" element. Clicking on it takes you to the current cover page. If you click "refresh" on the current cover page, you will only refresh that particular page, which will do nothing for you. For those who are unable to make sense of this, just copy and paste http://bikerodnkustom3.homestead.com/cover5_02.html into your browser's "address" window. However, it is unwise to bookmark that particular page, as using that URL after this issue's run will bring you back only to that particular cover page, and not the current one. The current cover page, with that URL, will eventually vanish, as we need the space.

          RE:RE:RE:RE:CUSTOMS:The New BikeRod&Kustom posted by Stacey on 10/27/2003 at 4:17:53 PM
Bravo Jim! Another excelent edition, thank you. Just scratched the surface this AM, kant wait to get back and digest every morsel.

Seems like any dolt with $19.95 a month and a computer can rise to their own level inability. Maybe we should license internet access... make 'em spent their first year on AOL. Then at least we'd have a warning sign, eh? LOL

          RE:CUSTOMS:The New BikeRod&Kustom posted by Rif on 10/28/2003 at 1:30:33 PM
Excellent, as always.
I really enjoyed the firebikes interview. I have not yet looked over the entire issue, but the areas that I missed my first time through I'm sure are up to the usual standard.
Keep on Keepin' on,

          RE:CUSTOMS:The New BikeRod&Kustom posted by AviationMetalSmith on 10/29/2003 at 7:52:34 PM
yeah, I saw it earlier today. great issue! I haven't read the whole thing yet. Keep up the good work!
PS about Killer Swan, I had the same trouble with my daughters' bike, with the fairing being in the way of the front brakes. Ended up rear brakes only. Don't feel embarrassed, it happens to everyone.

          RE:RE:CUSTOMS:The New BikeRod&Kustom posted by JimW. on 11/1/2003 at 6:21:20 AM
It's a great-looking V-brake, too. I racked my brain trying to come up with something to trim out the naked brake mount bosses, other than cartridge cases, the usual solution. That's been soooo done- including one in the new issue. I'm sure I'll eventually think of something. In the meantime, I'm about to head down to Baton Rouge this Sunday. Dave and I are going into a 3-month building frenzy. We're planning on building KustomCandiru, MotoCandiru, the Unlimited Dragster Trike, and maybe a motorized stretch sled based on a Schwinn frame from Sam L., who brought it to the last Abita Meet for us. All that should keep the devil from finding tasks for our fingers.

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WANTED:I WANT THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! posted by: BOBBY on 10/23/2003 at 2:43:59 AM


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WANTED:I WANT THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! posted by: BOBBY on 10/23/2003 at 2:43:59 AM

          RE:WANTED:I WANT THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! posted by JimW. on 10/27/2003 at 12:35:36 AM
If you're talking about SPIN T.H.U.G. composite mag-style rims- the last time I checked, their website was no longer in existance. That's usually a bad sign for corporate sites.

          RE:WANTED:I WANT THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! posted by ziggy on 12/24/2003 at 10:52:19 PM
Go to www.lovelylowrider.com and go to the "parts" section and you can choose from chrome or gold spinners for a reasonable price. Merry Christmas.

          RE:RE:WANTED:I WANT THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! posted by ziggy on 12/24/2003 at 10:58:51 PM
I forgot to mention that the spinners are listed under "knock off". Unless you already knew that spinners are also called knock offs, my tip would be helpful

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CUSTOMS:Wild... posted by: Rif on 10/17/2003 at 4:11:58 PM
Okay Kids,
Check these out and let's hear your thoughts and opinions...
I'm not sure yet but am leaning towards pretty cool.

          RE:CUSTOMS:Wild... posted by sam on 10/19/2003 at 3:03:35 AM

          RE:CUSTOMS:More Mild thanWild... posted by AviationMetalSmith on 10/22/2003 at 3:49:06 PM
I don't see any wild bikes on that page. When you said "wild" I expected to see something with a long chopper fork. It's a page of cruisers with the Chysler name on them. (now I know who builds Jeep mountain bikes.)
I went to a hobby shop and got some Ford decals and put one on one of my recumbents, and everyone was fooled into thinking it was made by Ford.

          RE:CUSTOMS:   Wild... posted by bb on 10/23/2003 at 6:32:49 PM
Kinda cheesy looking Chryler bikes...

          RE:CUSTOMS:Wild... posted by Rif on 10/25/2003 at 1:55:36 PM
What I meant was that it was wild and kinda cool that they were making a PT Cruiser bike...
People on this site are starting to get a little snobbish.
Too bad this scene is starting to turn like every other scene...
Back to being a lone wolf again I guess...
Later Days,
Rif "punk as F*** and twice as ugly" Addams

          RE:RE:CUSTOMS:Wild... posted by Rif on 10/25/2003 at 2:39:04 PM
I appologize for that last post, I had a very rough morning and it spilled over onto the board.
Sorry about that. Hope y'all can forgive me.

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MISC:Wyman Centennial stuff posted by: Rif on 10/12/2003 at 2:40:09 AM
I have just added a whole bunch of new pictures and text to the new George A. Wyman web site.
It can be seen at:
Click on the "road updates" link to see the new pic.s and read the beginings of the centennial ride across the country.
It took a while but i guess I'm starting to figure out this whole web site building, html writing, techno crap.
Keep the Tire Side Down,


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FOR SALE:My bike is for sale posted by: R.D. on 10/10/2003 at 7:25:07 AM
I just put my bike on E-bay. It is a lowracer. Raced in the HPRA series. These don't come up for sale very often.
" http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dllViewItem&item=3630716588 "
I thought you would enjoy looking at it. R.D.

          RE:FOR SALE:My bike is for sale posted by AviationMetalSmith on 10/11/2003 at 1:34:42 PM
You left a question mark out of that url. It should read "dll?ViewItem&item". It's a nice bike. But I guess it's impossible to ship. The carbon fiber seat by Garrie Hill is worth the current bid. No, I'll have to turn it down because driving to Indianapolis is out of the question.

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CUSTOMS:Various Subjects posted by: JimW. on 10/7/2003 at 2:49:01 PM
Hi, I just got back in town again. I see I missed some topics since I left. Here are some comments in order of appearance.

Two-legged center stands are available from:

Head Badges: Thanks to Rif for being so organized. However, since I posted that information, I've done more work with the transfer material. Drano will still etch aluminum, but I wasn't pleased with the way toner-transfer resists lye, so I don't recommend that combination now. Asphaltum paint will do a good job of resisting the lye, so a hand painted
resist will work fine. Asphaltum may be made by taking roofing tar and thinning it with mineral spirits. You can silk-screen asphaltum onto aluminum, and it will work for precision work. Note: Drano (lye with aluminum chips) is dangerous to work with. If you use it, wear skin and eye protection, as it will burn you. I normally use tweezers to remove the aluminum chips and shavings from it, before adding it to water. When lye reacts with aluminum, it gives off hydrogen gas, so always use it outdoors and away from flame.

All things considered, etching copper, using the toner-resist method and PC board etchant from Radio Shack is better. It's much less dangerous and more controllable. The copper may be plated after etching, and before painting.

The new issue of BikeRod&Kustom:
When I give a date for the next issue, I'm stating a goal, not signing a legal contract. As it happens, I was called out of town for paying work. BR&K is not paying work for me, although advertising is now covering the bare expenses for having it up on the web. This is an improvement, since it means that the thing isn't all coming out of my own pocket. However, I still have to earn a living. So, when I'm out doing that, I can't be laboring over BR&K. It's as simple as that. To make it even simpler for everyone; the next issue of BR&K will be coming out whenever I'm ready for it to happen. In this case, it'll be fairly soon, as I made headway on it before I left town. All the major editorial content is finished. However, doing the gallery pages is a major effort, as the stuff just keeps flowing in. I haven't even counted the new gallery bikes, but there's at least two dozen, and probably much more than that. This all takes time to put into web form, so I wouldn't advise holding your breath while waiting for it.

          RE:CUSTOMS:BR&K Update posted by JimW. on 10/9/2003 at 7:55:25 PM
The new issue is progressing nicely now that I'm back in town. There will be 32 new bikes added to the gallery. For those who might be interested: the BRK/Firebikes frame raffle is 92% sold out, as of this moment. This means that there are eight chances left. I'd like to have the winner's name in the new issue. Proceeds of the raffle will help defray costs for our recent bandwidth and site space upgrade. Those of you who were inclined to complain about the frequent bandwidth outages of BR&K, before the costly upgrade, are cordially invited to take the hint.

The raffle page is linked from the current issue's cover, or it may be accessed directly at http://bikerodnkustom3.homestead.com/raffle.html

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CUSTOMS:Centerstand posted by: Brad on 10/4/2003 at 8:14:34 AM
Hi, I am trying to find a centerstand that I could use on my 3g chopper. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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CUSTOMS:Custom HeadBadge posted by: GMS on 10/3/2003 at 12:14:00 PM
Does anybody know the best way to make a custom headbadge? I am thinking something like a thin piece of sheat metal, that i can bend to a curve to smoothly fit the headtube......somebody else have a better idea? Anybody else try and create their own headbadge?? Any ideas would help, thanks 'GMS

          RE:CUSTOMS:Custom HeadBadge posted by Rif on 10/3/2003 at 3:22:28 PM
Jim Wilson has done headbadges. If you look in the archives you should find adiscussion on this topic.
If you do not find it, e-mail me and I will send it, as I saved the discussion thread for future reference.

          RE:RE:CUSTOMS:Custom HeadBadge posted by GMS on 10/3/2003 at 4:16:35 PM
I searched for it but couldn't find what you were talking about.....I made a couple of headbages out of this alumnium, seems to bee the stuff, i can put indentations in it easily to create a textured badge....ill put some pictures on my webpage when i get them done, they are simle in design, but orgional, and my first ones! what can i say.....

          RE:RE:RE:CUSTOMS:Custom HeadBadge posted by Rif on 10/3/2003 at 5:59:11 PM
Hey, that's what it's all about right? Trial and error and refinement of the process.
There's absolutely nothing wrong with that. I ythink in all actuality the joy of creativity is in the creating of itself and not nearly as much in the finished product. That's art. Yes, once the process is refined and the finished product is what you imagined then great, but don't give up just because the first couple aren't exactly what you envisioned.
Just my 2 cents worth...

Here's Jim Wilson's way:
Kustom Headbadges

You can make your own etched head badges pretty easily. Electronic parts sources such as Digi-Key
sell 10-packs of a paper-like material which works in laser-printers of Xerox machines.
It's for making printed circuit etching masks. You print your design on the paper (backwards), then
use an electric clothes iron to fuse the printout to the metal surface. It is then soaked in
water until the paper substrate comes off. The design remains on the metal surface, acting as a mask
against the etchant chemical. You will need to apply some sort of resist to the back surface of the
metal. Asphaltum, a tar-like paint is very good.If you use copper, ferric chloride PC board etchant
will work well. This is available at electronic parts sources, including Radio Shack.
If you use aluminum, the etchant can be lye (Drano drain cleaner will work well). Bear in mind that
your mask needs to be a negative. The etchant eats into the exposed metal surface. You can get a
fairly deep etch with either process. After you've washed the etched metal and removed the resist,
trim the headbadge to shape and drill the mounting holes. Then you can bend it to the desired
curve. You can apply paint into to the etched recesses, or use dyed or pigmented epoxy resin, which
will give a thicker, durable coating.
RE:MISC: Custom made headbadge posted by JimW. on 1/5/2002 at 4:41:00 PM
I know several ways of making them, but I'm not looking for that sort of work. However, I can give
you some pointers on how to do it yourself.

Electronic supply companies (digikey.com, for one) have a paper-based material designed for making
iron-on masks for etching custom circuit boards. You do your artwork at the size you want it to be, in
reverse (backwards)and in negative You can also do it digitally. The material works in Xerox
machines or laser printers. The artwork is either xeroxed onto the transfer paper, or printed-out on it
from the laser printer.

The image is then ironed onto a piece of sheet metal. This can be aluminum, or copper, depending
upon the etchant.

Once the image is adhered to the metal, it is put into warm water to soak. After soaking, the paper
may be removed, leaving the image behind. The image will resist the etchant.
Everything but the metal under the image will be etched. The longer the metal is in the etchant, the
deeper the etch.
The back side needs to be protected by something. The classic process uses asphaltum paint, but you
can also use rubber cement, or many other coatings.

After etching, the etched area is lower than the original surface. The masking is removed from the
metal, and the metal is trimmed to final shape, and mounting holes (if any)are drilled. The badge is
polished at this point. The badge is then bent to the desired curve to fit the head tube.

If sheet copper was used, you may want to have it plated at this point. Plating may be chrome, nickel,
gold, or whatever.

Colored enamel in the colors of your choice may then be flowed into the etched low areas. I usually
use epoxy, colored with oil-based pigments, for its sturdiness and flexibility.

The etchants used are:
For copper, I use ferric chloride printed-circuit etchant from Radio Shack stores or from the source of
the printed circuit transfer paper.

For aluminum, I use common household lye, as used for cleaning drains.

These are the basics. It will require a bit of experimentation and practice on your part, as there are
ways of thinking which need to be cultivated (artwork is backwards, and needs to be a negative, etc.)
You can usually
tell how deep the etch is by looking at it, so there are no
fixed etch times. The etchants are nasty, especially the lye, so you will need rubber gloves and eye

With a little practice, the process is pretty simple. If you only need one head badge, the masking
(asphaltum is best)may be painted directly onto the metal. The fundamentals of the process are shared
with printmaking arts, so you might be able to find someone to take on the job who is a printmaking
student at a college or art school. I doubt that you will find a commercial shop which will take on the
job, as it fits into no common commercial processes exactly, although it uses aspects of several
commercial technologies (photo silk screen, printed circuit board makers, cloisonne' jewelry making,

It is well worth going through the learning process if you have an interest in being able to offer such a
specialized service to other people. You know that if you have a desire
for it to be done, that others have the same desire.

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WANTED:Latest BR&K posted by: AviationMetalSmith on 10/2/2003 at 4:29:09 PM
Where is the September Bikerodnkustom? Last I heard the Issue was ready to go, but I haven't heard anything since.

          RE:WANTED:Latest BR&K posted by MEANIRISHMOFO on 10/3/2003 at 3:34:58 PM
Are you in the Navy AMS?

          RE:RE:WANTED:Latest BR&K posted by AviationMetalSmith on 10/6/2003 at 1:58:10 PM
To answer your question, I was in the Navy for four years.
The Aviation Structural Mechanic (Structures) requires a four year enlistment. I had built some fiberglass & Kevlar fairings before I enlisted, so I became very proficient at compostites, although the Navy taught me metal work too. Aboard the USS Saratoga (CV-60) I did fiberglass for other squadrons and got paid with cans of Coca-Cola.
One day off the coast of Bosnia some Royal Navy Officers came aboard looking for a tool to borrow. They needed a drill bit to drill a new hole in a Kevlar panel for one of their (HMS Invincible's) Sea Harriers. None of the USN A/C use Kevlar, but I had my 3/16 (the right size) spade drill in my locker. So I donated the drill bit to the Royal Navy.
Now I'm a Veteran, so I get Veteran's Benefits, which certainly helps because there aren't many who are willing to pay for the the bikes I build.

          RE:RE:WANTED:Latest BR&K posted by AviationMetalSmith on 10/6/2003 at 2:01:23 PM
To answer your question, I was in the Navy for four years.
The Aviation Structural Mechanic (Structures) requires a four year enlistment. I had built some fiberglass & Kevlar fairings before I enlisted, so I became very proficient at compostites, although the Navy taught me metal work too. Aboard the USS Saratoga (CV-60) I did fiberglass for other squadrons and got paid with cans of Coca-Cola.
One day off the coast of Bosnia some Royal Navy Officers came aboard looking for a tool to borrow. They needed a drill bit to drill a new hole in a Kevlar panel for one of their (HMS Invincible's) Sea Harriers. None of the USN A/C use Kevlar, but I had my 3/16 (the right size) spade drill in my locker. So I donated the drill bit to the Royal Navy.
Now I'm a Veteran, so I get Veteran's Benefits, which certainly helps because there aren't many who are willing to pay for the the bikes I build.

          RE:RE:RE:WANTED:Latest BR&K posted by Mike on 10/25/2003 at 11:44:43 PM
Hi Av', do you have any shots of your latest kustom bike
project? Anything as zoot as your sister's pink fairing bike?

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CUSTOMS:homemade pipe bender posted by: brian on 9/25/2003 at 2:23:27 AM
ok heres the deal, ive been building bikes for a little while now, and its great using frames that are already there. but i want to start building my own , and i was wondering if anyone knew how i could make some kind of home made pipe bender. if anyone knows how to make one and what i would need please reply. thanks

          RE:CUSTOMS:homemade pipe bender posted by AviationMetalSmith on 9/27/2003 at 1:25:00 PM
I build my frames out of fiberglass, so I don't need one, BUT; if I was going to buy a welder and weld frames of metal, I'd use my Dad's pipe benders. He is an electrician, so he has a selection for different diameter tube. You might need to ones for rigid conduit.
One time I used the bender to make a roll cage for my bike.3/4 inch Electro Metallic Tubing.

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MISC:What Year Is My Sekine Bike? posted by: Dr. Bunsen Honeydew on 9/17/2003 at 4:52:16 AM
Hi, I was hoping someone could help me with identifying my odd, Japanese bike. My research has turned up no information as yet. It's a Sekine model with the following unique characteristics: single oversize top tube, rear spring suspension in place of the seat stays, 14 X 3.00" tires (like wheelbarrow tires), solid rims (no spokes). The frame looks very much like a 1966 Raleigh RSW except with rear suspension. Any info. regarding this bike would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


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LOWRIDERS:ideas posted by: metlhed on 9/17/2003 at 12:44:21 AM
hey guys, maybe someone here missed me:) i was just thinkin i would talk about some of my projects. My lowrider is lookin bad. the paint didnt adhear right and chips easily(even after a year!), so i think i might check into powdercoating it...?? My 24" custom just got new tires,sprocket,pedals,cranks, and a new straight springer. I am thinkin about restoring a new "sky ray" cruiser i got. and last but not least i still have my jc higgins frame with 1 coat of primer.. powdercoat it?? oh yeah i also got a 12 incher that i put a 26" fork and 15" apes on. rides great lol.
the reason for this was that i had some new ideas. like i paint the valve stems to match the bike! and i also thought about an airbag suspension. like a company should work on one to go in the spring or build a frmae that uses the on the rear triangles to lower it. it would be controlled by a samll compressor that you could put into a trailer(which a company should build...). any body else got some ideas? oh yeah where are you jim w ??? i mis hearing your thoughts. easy orange is one of the nicest bikes i have ever seen sebastian. one day i hope to be at your level:)

          RE:LOWRIDERS:ideas posted by sam on 9/20/2003 at 11:36:26 PM
Even Cool Guys like Jim W have to hit the old grind every now and then.He'll be back soon.Cool guys can't work all the time when there's fun to be had!Well , good luck in Cal., Jim ---sam

          RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:ideas posted by JimW. on 9/27/2003 at 3:48:58 AM
Gee, it's nice to be missed! I just got back from a work mission on the Left Coast, and before that I was putting all my time in on the editorial and business aspects of BikeRod&Kustom. The new issue will be out within two weeks. Among many other things, it'll have a feature on Killer Swan, my latest kustombike, finished about the time the last issue came out. I haven't counted the number of new gallery bikes, but it's really huge. And they're all nice, too.

Someone already makes an air spring for bike suspensions. Robert Q. Riley uses it in his GroundHugger XR2 carbon recumbent, I'm pretty sure. I couldn't immediately lay my hands on his planset, to find the name of the maker of it; but as soon as I do, I'll post it here. I think a small compressed-air tank would be a little more practical for bike use, so you wouldn't need a compressor to be hauled around. There are also small 12V compressors, of course, but the weight of the battery would still be a big factor.
Compressed oxygen bottles come in a wide range of sizes, and could easily be used with air to charge an air spring, and a propane torch tank could also be adapted for the purpose.

After the new issue is up, I'll be heading down to Baton Rouge for several months. Fellow Wizard Bro, Dave and I will be building a pair of our Candiru Roadster designs, and our Unlimited Recumbent flywheel-assisted Drag bike, in preparation for the '04 Abita Springs meet, happening next June. Drags will be a big part of the fun. The new BRK will have a piece on Drag Bike design, too.

          RE:LOWRIDERS:ideas posted by ziggy on 1/6/2004 at 8:52:40 PM
Neat ideas. Just bear in mind that powdercoating can be pretty expensive. You will pay about $200 to $500 dollars on lasting powdercoat.

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