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Customs, Lowriders, HPV, Recumbent

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CUSTOMS:   Headset Conversions posted by: Patrick on 3/13/2002 at 4:53:16 AM
I have a few custom buildup projects stalled now until I can either find some advice or parts. I am trying to find or build special headset bearing cups to fit a 1.125" shock fork to a Schwinn Typhoon and a Schwinn Stingray, both designed for a 1" steerer fork. I know that the 1.125 bearing cups are too large to fit inside the frame - but what about a custom set that fits to the outside of the frame so there is enough clearance to mount the larger diameter fork and bearing cups? Has anyone out there done this? Thanks in advance for any and all help.

          RE:CUSTOMS:   Headset Conversions posted by mike on 3/14/2002 at 10:08:22 PM
Have you tried a BMX headset? That may be the size.

          RE:CUSTOMS:   Headset Conversions posted by JimW. on 3/16/2002 at 6:33:44 PM
I've never tried it, but if I were going to, I'd have a machinist make a pair of adapters machined to accept the larger bearing cups, with an inner bore corresponding to the outside diameter of the head tube. Then I'd weld it in place. The drawback is that those are a couple of substantial chunks of steel they're made from. Might be tough to find. It might be easier to adapt the fork's steerer tube and bearing cones to the smaller diameter.

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CUSTOMS:   Schrogg-Bikes Customs posted by: Sebastian on 3/11/2002 at 9:57:22 AM
Hi Folx, I just got some pictures from Schrogg-Bikes from a small town near Halle, Germany. These guys build Custom Cruisers and make their BodyMods from WOOD! You can see pictures of some of their rides @ http://www.lowriderbike.de -> Cruisers -> Schrogg-Bikes

Sebastian °LowStylez B.C. Hamburg, Germany°


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AGE / VALUE:   Dear Jim W posted by: Fast Eddie on 3/6/2002 at 6:04:18 PM
Jim W. Just so you know, if I do the buy the Monarch Silverking I am not going to customize it. I want it to look as close as possible to the way it did when it rolled off the line. I have a race ready gravity bike and a show bike that is still in the making but I dont have a cool cruiser and the Monarch is the coolest looking cruiser I have ever seen. By the way, you didn't answer my question, how much is a fair price to offer the guy for the bike? He is anxious to sell but I hesitant to make an purchase if I am ignorant of the items worth.

          RE:AGE / VALUE:   Dear Jim W posted by Joel on 3/6/2002 at 10:55:35 PM
There are several Silverking models and the value will depend on the model and condition.

A standard girl's model in fair condition may sell for less than $100 and a girl's Wingbar in excellent condition just sold on Ebay for $3000+.

          RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Dear Jim W posted by JimW. on 3/7/2002 at 3:27:25 AM
Sorry, I was away from the computer for a couple of days. I'm not a good person to give you pricing info. Joel sounds like he knows the score. Try the guy for a hundred I would think it would be fair. Girl's bikes are definitely cheaper.
Of course, the guy may think that anything old and interesting is worth a fortune. We have a couple of Silver King Hot Rods in the BikeRod&Kustom Gallery by Andrea Burchell at http://mywilson.homestead.com/gallery18.html
Leon Dixon has a good article on Silver Kings at

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LOWRIDERS:   schwinn stingray posted by: Jeremy on 3/6/2002 at 2:57:14 AM
Hey everyone. I really need some sound advice. My son and I are wanting to customize and lowride a bike together. We have decided our favorite style frame is the Schwinn stingray. However, we see that they have been making this stingray design for many many years. Can someone please recommend a certain year frame for us to start with? I don't want to end up with a frame that is undesirable to others, I would like to get one that many people have worked with so that I can get tips on working with it. Anyways, I noticed that many of the lowriders are 70's stingrays, but please let me know if there is a certain year that is highly desireable for its shape, strength, etc.....please email me and let me know about this so I can begin our project!! jeklnhyd@gulftel.com

          RE:LOWRIDERS:   schwinn stingray posted by JimW. on 3/6/2002 at 10:32:04 AM
First off, don't base it upon an actual Stingray or Krate frame. They cost a bloody fortune nowadays, and you'd be depriving some loser of a chance at reliving his childhood,
in which he has the cool bike and gets to date the cheerlader. You can buy a repop of the Schwinn Cantilever frame for about $40 and you won't have to strip the paint and scrape off those tacky decals. It doesn't matter which frame is the sturdiest- if you do it up right, you won't let the kids play with it, because it will be a masterpiece, and you won't want those little vandals to scratch the kustom paint job. Rule # 1 about kustoms is that you buy cheap and make it precious by slathering it with your own elbow grease. When was the last time you saw a kustomized Ferrari or Rolls-Royce?

          RE:LOWRIDERS:   schwinn stingray posted by butnut on 3/7/2002 at 7:39:06 AM
Hi Jeremy. Sounds ike a great project. You are building more than a bike with your son, you're building a memory. Remember this and this bike will be very special. Now my 2 cents. I've built kustoms and original Sting Ray restorations. A few questions. Is your bike going to be a rider or show bike? If it's going to be a rider, the year does not matter. All Chicago 'Rays are just as sturdy as the next. If it's a show bike, depending on the mods, an earlier frame is a plus, not a necessity. I like the early frames for the shorter scale and the 'hockey stick' or 'fishtail' chain guard. Later years have the longer cut off guard. I've judged a few shows (show circut died out here years ago) and the catagories I remember are original, street custom, mild custom and full custom. Original...self explanitory. Street...Schwinn frame with aftermarket parts. NO bondo molded tank. Mild...usually a molded tank and maybe rear webs with aftermarket parts. Full...every mod imaginable. Molded tank, webs, raked head, chopped seat tube tons of custom and aftermarket parts. Check out a bike show (if you have any in your area) or Lowrider Bicycle magazine for ideas. If you plan to do a show bike and enter shows, get a Schwinn. Yeah, it's gonna cost more than a copy, but IMHO, if you want to put time and money into your project, start with the real deal. Any judge worth his beans can spot the built in kick stand, the rear dropouts and the welds of a Schwinn frame...no matter how much custom body work is on the frame. If you're making a rider to kick around on, a copy frame is fine for your first project. Look around for a deal on a frame..maybe Ebay? If you have a hard time finding one, shoot me an email with an amount you wanna spend. I have some Schwinn and Lowrider modded frames I may sell...I live on a rock in the middle of the Pacific...shipping alone could be too much. Good luck, hope I helped.

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AGE / VALUE:   can ya tell me sumthin bout dis bike? posted by: Fast Eddie in KC on 3/4/2002 at 6:40:45 PM
Hola, Fast Eddie in Kansas City here. I ran across a bike for sale that I am very much interested in but I haven't a clue how much it's worth or how much I should offer the guy for it. It is a late forties/early fifties Monarch Silverking. The frame is made of brushed aluminum tubes, but rather that being welded together, they are held together with metal joints. It has most of its original hardware and what it lacks would be easy to replace. Its a girls bike and it's one of the most unique looking frames I have ever seen. It needs some restoration but not much. I could probably have lookin' pretty sharp if I spent a weekend on it. How much is this bike worth and what would be a fair price to pay for it? Thanx for any help, Fast Eddie

          RE:AGE / VALUE:   can ya tell me sumthin bout dis bike? posted by JimW. on 3/6/2002 at 11:11:45 AM
Eddie, as may be seen in the previous topic's post, I'm not one of those preservationist geeks. However, unlike yer typical Schwinn fancier, I recognize the brilliance of that particular Monark bike. It is a classic. It is worth more money than a sane person would pay for the basis of a kustom bike. Even if the current owner is an idiot, it would be criminal to mess with it. I won't track you down and mutilate you if you do; but I would probably find your address and give it to Leon Dixon. He would definitely get you, and hurt you badly. To give you an indication of his attitude, go to: http://members.aol.com/oldbicycle/index8.html
In this case, no jury would convict him, especially if I were on it.

Any piece-of-crap bike, especially Schwinn, if you can afford it, is fodder for the kustom treatment. Don't mess with the great ones, though.

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AGE / VALUE:   murray bikes posted by: metlhed on 3/3/2002 at 9:48:59 PM
i have a murray f5 wildcat bike, but i cant seem to find any info on my bike. the frame design doesnt look like any of the murrays ive seen. it looks like a stingray.
thanx for all the help everyone her has given me, since it is my first bike.

          RE:AGE / VALUE:   murray bikes posted by metlhed on 3/4/2002 at 12:34:16 AM
instead of posting a new message i will just add to this one. Does anyone know if the normal bent springer fork(from lovelylowrider.com) will work with the extended fork crown kit thing? the information on the crown kit shows it with the bent springer fork with the twist support braces. would the support braces being bent or not make a difference?

          RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   murray bikes posted by JimW. on 3/4/2002 at 7:48:48 AM
You can find people who can tell you about the Murray Wildcat at the musclebike discussion on this site.

As to your 2nd question, the type of brace, or truss rod, or whatever they call those things shouldn't matter. The twisted ones should be exactly the same length as the plain ones, otherwise they wouldn't fit. They just start out with a longer piece of stock before they twist them, or trim them to length. I hope that was the question?

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AGE / VALUE:   dyno coaster posted by: sac town on 3/3/2002 at 8:21:19 PM
what are some good sites with a lot of info onth dyno coaster so I can get some more customizing info or good sites for the coaster owners?

          RE:AGE / VALUE:   dyno coaster posted by JimW. on 3/4/2002 at 7:41:20 AM
Hi ST,
Do you mean the Dyno Kustom Kruisers and Roadsters? If so,
I guess you know about http://kustomkruiser.com , their official website. They don't have much information, unfortunately. Probably your best bet is to check out what other people are doing to theirs at ttp://bikerodnkustom.com . We show the nicest kustom treatments on the Roadsters, but not much how-to information on how they were done. Yet. I don't really know of anything more than that on the web.

          RE:AGE / VALUE:   dyno coaster posted by Patrick on 3/6/2002 at 4:34:23 AM
Funny how great minds think alike! I have just been in touch with a representative from Dyno's new parent company and unfortunately they will no longer be producing or supplying the cool custom parts and accessories for these. Good luck finding dealers who still have stock. I am looking for two of their double down forks. Anyone got any leads?

          RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   dyno coaster posted by JimW. on 3/7/2002 at 3:38:09 AM
Phat Cycles has a very similar fork- they call it a triple tree. http://phatcycles.com
They cost about $140, I think. Tell them BikeRod&Kustom sent you. Aaron Bethlenfalvy, designer of the Kustom Kruisers is now head of design at Nirve Sports http://nirve.com I've interviewed him for the new issue of BR&K which will be going up at the end of this month. He's promised that his new line of kustom-styles will blow our socks off. He's also promised that they'll have tons of great new kustom parts and components that can be bought off the website. Pretty exciting stuff. It looks like we'll also have photos of his new prototypes for the same issue.

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LOWRIDERS:   clear coat posted by: metlhed on 3/3/2002 at 4:54:19 PM
i just sprayed a whole can of clear cote over my bike paint and it looks kinda cloudy, is this normal?

          RE:LOWRIDERS:   clear coat posted by Sebastian on 3/3/2002 at 5:41:56 PM
.... nope! ..... :-(

          RE:LOWRIDERS:   clear coat posted by JimW. on 3/3/2002 at 5:44:56 PM
No, it doesn't sound normal to me. Did you do it on an especially humid, or rainy day? Sometimes atmospheric moisture commbines with the finish to produce a condition called "blushing". Lacquer is more prone to this than other types of finishes. When you say you sprayed a whole can of it on, do you mean that you sprayed it all on in one fell swoop? Or did you apply it in a succession of light coats? The normal procedure, as given in most instructions on the spray can label, is to build it up gradually. Applying a clear coat very heavily could probably result in cloudiness (not to mention runs and drips). Before doing anything drastic, like stripping it back down to the metal, I'd recommend that you just leave it alone to dry thoroughly.
The cloudiness may go away by itself. If it still looks bad after a week or so, try polishing the surface. Turtle Wax makes a good clearcoat polish/wax. If that doesn't do it, you might as well get out the paint stripper.

You didn't mention what brand of clear spray you used. I have always had the best results with Krylon Crystal Clear.
It dries quickly, isn't as prone to drips as others, and doesn't get yellow-ish when built-up heavily. To do a substantial clearcoat on a typical bike frame will probably require more than one spray can, so your problem wasn't necessarily the amount of clearcoat, but the time period over which it was applied.

The best sequence of application on clear or color spray can finishes is for the first coat to be extremely light, practically dusted on from a greater than normal distance from the surface, with the next coat being only slightly wetter. Don't even try to make it look shiny until you have a substantial build-up on the surface. With Krylon clear, I'd give it at least 10 minutes between coats. This allows time for the propellant vapor to evaporate off. Trapped vapor can also make it look cloudy.When there is a decent amount of thickness built up in stages, give it a final wet coat (looks shiny). When the wet coat is applied to already built-up layers, it's not as prone to drips and runs. Let the final wet coat cure for several days or a week, then polish it. It actually will look crystal clear then.

The most important thing you can learn from your first paint job is to not rush the process. I would guess that all of us have gone through it. I certainly did. It is so
tempting to see the end result, that we hurry. Having to do it all over again is the penalty that keeps us from making the same mistake again. Unfortunately, I'm a slow learner, but a fast worker, so I've had to learn it about a dozen times. (I think it's finally stuck.)

          RE:LOWRIDERS:   clear coat posted by metlhed on 3/3/2002 at 6:53:57 PM
i used a brand called "dupli-color" i ket it dry for about maybe an hour or a little more and the cloudyness went away. i used a blue metal flake with the metal flake clear cote

          RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:   clear coat posted by JimW. on 3/3/2002 at 8:18:07 PM
So, there's no problem now? Congratulations! Dupli-Color and
Krylon are both owned by the same company. I've used the Dupli-Color blue metalflake, and it's good stuff. Never used the DC clear coat, but I'm sure it's a fine product, also. It's always good to use the same brand-primer, finish, clear, as you know there won't be any negative interaction.

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CUSTOMS:   Body work posted by: A friend on 2/28/2002 at 8:43:33 PM
Its good to read the posts on this subject. From what i'm reading people are receiving some great info. I hope too see some of these prodjects on bikerodnkustom. If I may add one bit of info on this subject, when sanding and working your bodywork blow off remaing debree real good. Also press down firmly down on your knife in back and forth motion as you go, and remember, have fun!

          RE:CUSTOMS:   Body work posted by butnut on 3/1/2002 at 7:15:18 AM
Hey friend. That's a good tip I forgot. Nothing worse than 'Bondo boogers'...hehe. Since there seem to be a few Brian's on the Sting Ray forum, I'll use my other name...butnut. I have to take some pics of 3 more bikes, then I'll send 'em to BR&K as promised. See ya. Aloha

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LOWRIDERS:   How to add body work posted by: Fast Eddie on 2/25/2002 at 10:36:12 PM
Hola! I bought a late 60's Schwinn cruiser frame to build a lowrider bicycle. I have done some cutting and welding to customize the frame to make sure it will be a one of a kind showbike. I now want to add some body work to cover up some of the welds and open ends of steel tubing from removed frame, and also to add some flavor here and there. However I have never done this before. I have rebuilt a few old bikes but it never recquired adding body work. I have been told to use bondo and chicken wire, clothes hanger wire and fiberglass repair poxy, and other such things, but I am afraid to try anything unless I know for sure. The frame has custom machined parts and alot of time into it already and its not even ready to paint, if I ruin it I will have to start all over and reinvest the time and money I have already spent. Could someone please tell me how this is done or direct me to a book or website that has step by step instruction on how to do this? Any help would be much appreciated. My e-mail address is fasteddie@bsikc.com. Any information would be much appreciated. Thanx, Fast Eddie outty.
P.S. Are there any gravitybikers hanging around this site?

          RE:LOWRIDERS:   How to add body work posted by brian on 2/26/2002 at 8:03:46 AM
Howzit. Since you weld, or know someone who welds, keep it real, use steel. (pun intended). Sheet metal can be cut and tacked on the bigger open areas, tube ends can be filled. The chicken wire/bondo tanks is for those who can't afford to do it right. It will give the 'look' but the frame weighs a ton, and too much bondo will crack. You have some bones invested in custom machined parts so do it right. Any quality consious builder will do it right, do it once. When you have 'skinned' and filled the areas, grind, shape, sand. Using a minimum amount of bondo, build up a layer to hide the imperfections. Try to keep the layer under a 1/4" thick. Use a rasp to shape the bondo and block sand (80 grit) to get the general shape. You can use a little more bondo to fill in any rough spots. Keep sanding using finer grits each time. Once it looks good, give a light coat of primer. This will show ALL the flaws. Use a glazing putty (2 part type,like bondo is best) use a plastic squeege and lightly 'feather' any flaws. This dries fast and you can really fine tune any rough spots. It should look perfect with a coat of primer before you proceed any further. This is your only chance to make any corrections. Always remember, a show quality paint job, is only as good as the PREP work. You can have the best painter squirt a killer finish, but if you cut corners in your prep, you will be sick. Take your time, do it right...you'll appreciate it in the end. Painting is another can of worms. If you know a painter, now is the time to ask questions. Always use the same line of product. From primer to sealer to base coat to color coat to clear. No intermixing of brands...no chance for screw ups. Good luck and have fun. Post a pic when it's finished too.

          RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:   How to add body work posted by Jimmy on 2/27/2002 at 11:45:23 PM
I too agree with Brian. I was also thinking of filling my frame with a fiberglass kit. After thinking for DAYS I finally decided to do it the "RIGHT" way,metal and bondo. Those other ways are for the people who are going to ride their bikes,or not going to show them. All I had to do is make a template,I did this by getting a sheet of oaktag paper,and holding it up to the place i wanted filled and traced it.Cut out, and hold up to make sure thats what you want. then I bought a sheet of metal.A 3' by 3' sheet should work fine if you dont plan on making big add ons.trace templates on to the metal.and cut out,either with a plasma cutter or a metal shear,for a finer cut I used the shears.Then you hold up to frame and make sure they are going to fit right.If needed you want to trim and shape this time,trust me,i welded before this step,and its a B***H trying to grind these out.After welding you want to run over everyspot you welded.try to get most of it with the angle grinder.then you want to hand sand over the WHOLE frame with a really grity paper,any number of gritty paper will work,i think i used 100.after that you want to start the bondo process.I first filled in any BIG holes .let this dry,next fill in any other smaller holes,then sand any excess off.Then i put a skim coat of bondo over all the spots that will need to be shaped,filled, and smoothed.sand untill really smooth,then i put another skim coat of bondo on.Shape,fill and smooth all areas.once you get all of it looking like how you want it,put a thin primer coat on.After this you will almost always find more to fill.once you get the frame smooth,and looking just the way you want,put another primer coat on.wetsand after that,with a really FINE grit paper.Put your base coat on now.i used Pure Gold by PPG,but you use what you want.after two thin coats that cover the whole frame,put your first coat of color on.DONT cover the whole frame,just mist it lightly,this gives a good grip to paint that later will arrive.the second coat should be another meduim dust,covering most of the frame.third coat should cover the whole thing,but not TOO THICK!!!I recommend at least five nice coats of color.I would then let the paint set up for at least 2 days.wet sand really really really lightly,making sure not to take too much paint off.then you can put your clear coat on.put this on in three different layers,first coat should be lightly,second should cover most,then third will cover it,if three dosnt do it put one more good coat on.let set for a week,sounds like a long time but trust me,youll see the difference in the paint.now that youve got the frame painted,you can CAREFULLY put the parts on.GOOD LUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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AGE / VALUE:   Updated again posted by: Sebastian on 2/25/2002 at 6:53:56 PM
Hi Folx,

Another fine update @ http://www.lowriderbike.de

I just added clean Custom-Low-Chopper from WestCoastChoppers to my Site. This baby was custom-built for Jesse James of WestCoast-Choppers and is now here in Hamburg, Germany as part of the West-Coast-Choppers-Store. (http://www.lowriderbike.de -> "Bikes" -> "WestCoast")

Also added two clean Sketches from Taner Taskesen to the Sketchpad-Section. (http://www.lowriderbike.de -> "Misc." -> "Sketchpad")

Cheers, and keep on ridin' low.
Sebastian °LowStylez B.C. Hamburg, Germany°

          RE:AGE / VALUE:   Updated again posted by brian on 2/26/2002 at 8:18:51 AM
Hey Sebastian, just checked out your site...very kool. Unfortunately, Lowrider bikes have come and gone here...as far as I know. I have restored/built over 30 Sting Rays when the craze was on. Originals and full kustoms. I have 4 show bikes I plan to post on Bikerodnkustom when I take more pics. I'll sent ya an 'E-card' of my 'Lowboy' which was featured in Lowrider Bike. I have a bunch of original Schwinns set up for riding. I'll be hangin' on this page and the Sting Ray page since I just discovered it. Shaawiiiiiiiiing! Aloha

          RE:AGE / VALUE:   Updated again posted by brian on 2/27/2002 at 7:23:37 AM
Thanks for adding my bike to your site Sebastian. You guys have some sweet rides over there. If the weather holds up I'll snap pics of my other bikes. Aloha

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WANTED:   Shorty fenders posted by: Ron on 2/22/2002 at 3:50:34 AM
Where can I find the shorty fenders for a 26" cruiser like you see on some of the Dyno Kruisers?

Working on my first project bike. Any help would be appreciated.

          RE:WANTED:   Shorty fenders posted by JimW. on 2/25/2002 at 12:02:14 AM
Presuming that you're referring to a bobbed rear fender, the simple way is to take a front fender and modify it.
A ducktail fender used in this way will have a kick-up at the rear edge. Using a rear fender as a guide, you trim the lower edge with tin snips to match the shape. You will need to transfer the edge shape, giving clearance for the chain, also. You can do the same process on a rear fender, except you may have one or more holes which will need to be filled.
Holes may be filled in by backing the hole with a small piece cut from a tin can. After cleaning paint from around the hole underneath, and on the top surface, as well, you clamp the piece of tin plate underneath, and solder the metal to the fender, leaving solder raised above the fender surface, in the former hole. this solder is filed and sanded down so it is flush with the surface. It may then be painted or plated.

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AGE / VALUE:   value/age posted by: metlhed on 2/21/2002 at 11:07:05 PM
i have my bike, but i dont know what year it was made or what the value is are there any ways to find out?

          RE:AGE / VALUE:   value/age posted by JimW. on 3/3/2002 at 8:26:19 PM
If there's no headbadge or decals readable, about the only thing you can try is looking through the bike picture database on this site. Things to look for are crank sprocket design, chainguard shape, frame design. Chances are, if it's so far gone that none of the normal identifiers can be seen, it's not worth much to a collector.
Sounds just right for kustomizing. Then it'll be a 2002 Metlhed Special.

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LOWRIDERS:   paintin posted by: metlhed on 2/18/2002 at 9:47:58 PM
yes yes i am painting my frame and i wanted to know if there is anything i should do to prep it or anything to do after. most likely i am going to use spray-paint cause i have a lack of funds for a proffesianal job. for spray paints what are the best brands and what will give my the best look??

          RE:LOWRIDERS:   paintin posted by Sebastian on 2/18/2002 at 11:52:54 PM
Hi metlhed,

well - it pretty much depends on the condition of the frame. Usually you just have to sand it, primer it and lay down the paint. But as I don't know, how you want do paint it it could differ.
I usually use Spray-Paint by "Belton" or "Sparvar". I have heard of "Krylon" to be very good. As a matter of fact you'll even get Metal-Flakes and Candy-Colors in a Spray-Can. That really looks cool!
When I paint my bikes I sand it with a 500grade paper, lay down the primer, let it dry, sand it with 800grade paper and then start with the first coat of paint. For example on my Schwinn, i used a gold-metallic base, put copper-metallic over it - fading the copper to the gold on the top of the tube. Then I put Gold-Flakes all over the frame and Pearl-Flakes from above (over the Gold that was left from the Copper-to-Gold-Fade) to it. After that, I shot some candy-red from beneth the tube - fading to the Copper-metallic-Gold-Flake-Mix. Here is a picture of the Bike at that Stage:


.... Top the whole thing with some (at least 10) coats of clear, let it dry for at least two weeks, polish it and put the bike back together and you're ready to hit the boulevard.

Hope you guys understood my "english".

Sebastian °LowStylez B.C. Hamburg, Germany° ..... http://www.lowriderbike.de

          RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:   paintin posted by Sebastian on 2/18/2002 at 11:57:32 PM
whoops - me again ;)

will put some white pinstripin on before shootin the clear .....

I'm out .... :)

          RE:RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:   paintin posted by Oscar on 2/24/2002 at 6:24:33 AM
I've also had good luck with the rattle-can method. Sebastien - does clear coat help the durability of the paint? Do-it-yourself paint jobs are usually prone to chipping.

          RE:RE:RE:RE:LOWRIDERS:   paintin posted by Sebastian on 2/24/2002 at 9:44:18 AM
"... Sebastien - does clear coat help the durability of the paint? ..."

Fo' sure! I usually put some' between 8 and 20 Coats of clear on. The clear in Spray-Paint-Cans is not as strong as the "2-K-Automotive"-Stuff. But when you let it dry long enough, it will do the job as well and will give your Job a clean, deep, rich finish.

Sebastian °LowStylez B.C. Hamburg, Germany° .... http://www.lowriderbike.de

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WANTED:   69' Murray Eliminator posted by: R. Roedersheimer on 2/17/2002 at 7:38:29 PM
Anyone know of someone looking for a decent eliminator? Does anyone have anyparts for one??Contact the seller/and/or/buyer at E-bay if you do!!! LOOK LOOK LOOK !!! There is a super rare 1969 Murray Eliminator for sale on E-bay !!! Bidding is only at $305.00 !!! Take a look,tell your friends, there are not many left like this !!!! This is the wildest '60's bike ever produced!!!


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