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Vintage Bicycle Discussion Area

Vintage Lightweights

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AGE / VALUE:†††firestone posted by: katie on 5/7/2009 at 10:51:37 AM
firestone retro men's bike how much do you think this bike would be worth

.


by: 166.82.117.37


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†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††firestone posted by Gralyn on 5/8/2009 at 8:55:04 AM
Is it a Firestone or a Western flyer? I have seen an old Firestone posted locally on Craigslist for some time now - and they were asking $150 for it.....to my knowledge - it has never sold.
by: 74.235.34.134




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AGE / VALUE:†††Trek 1400 posted by: Gralyn on 5/6/2009 at 7:07:57 AM
I picked up a Trek 1400 yesterday - frame, fork, headset, wheels. (I would say gone are the days when I could find an old Trek in a thrift store for $20)....I actually had to pay for this one.....not a steal, but probably less than it was actually worth.
Anyway, It's purple with gold lettering (original finish). However, per the Trek web site - there was no purple. They do list an "ice blue". So, I suppose they considered this "purple" to be "ice blue". Anyway, for this color - it would be a 1994 model. Also, it has a 1" steerer tube - which would also date it to more the early 1/2 of the '90's.

I'm going to build it up......but right away I saw one problem....probably the only problem: The seat tube size......It has a rather large diameter - larger than any other bikes I have (Cannondale, etc.). I figure it's either 1 1/8 or 1 3/8 diameter. I don't have any calipers to measure it.....
Does anyone know for sure what the front derailleur clamp size for a 1994 Trek 1400 is?
by: 74.235.34.126

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†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Trek 1400 posted by Gralyn on 5/7/2009 at 7:16:48 AM
I measured....it appears to be 34.9 mm. So, now I am looking for a front der. with 34.9 mm clamp size.
by: 74.235.34.46




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MISC:†††Thanet bb problems posted by: Hugo on 5/3/2009 at 7:11:47 PM
I'm having problems with the bottom bracket on my Thanet Silverlight. It has an unthreaded bb shell with a TDC bb insert which is prevented from turning in the shell by a brass bb oiler. The bb oiler screws into the shell and into a slot in the TDC insert.

From when I got the bike the bb lock ring would loosen after just a few miles so I Locktite'd it. That worked for a while but despite the lock ring being fixed the assembly started loosening again. I took it apart yesterday and found the end of the bb oiler had sheared off. The bike has a Sturmey Archer fixed-gear ASC hub and it's obvious the brass bb oiler is just not up to the stress of preventing the TDC insert from rotating in the bb shell with fixed gear.

I think the solution might be to replace the bb oiler with a blanking screw of some kind, made of a stronger material, perhaps stainless steel, but I can't find any info about the bb oiler's thread size. Does anyone know?

Also, I'd like to replace the present cottered crank with a cotterless Stronglight 49A/TA set that I have. Does anyone have experience of performing such a change on a machine with a BB shell? For example, will a TA or Stronglight axle work with TDC bearing cups?
by: 222.229.244.39

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†††††††††† RE:MISC:†††Thanet bb problems posted by David on 5/4/2009 at 7:35:51 AM
You could try one of the threadless bottom brackets that are simply tightened together into the BB shell. There's a Mavic (expensive) that requires chamfering the shell and a Taiwanese YST ($20) that doesn't. See http://biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=94911458858&d=single&c=Components&sc=Bottom-Brackets&tc=Cartridge/Taper-Spindle&item_id=YS-BB99368110
by: 216.15.114.27

†††††††††† RE:MISC:†††Thanet bb problems posted by Warren on 5/4/2009 at 12:28:19 PM
Hugo, there is a hole in the shell for the oiler to nestle in but in no way should it be used for leverage when tightening the cups. The drive side (fixed?) cup has wrench flats on it so once the shell is positioned you lightly snug the adjustable cup and then firmly secure the lock ring while holding the "fixed" cup in position. Then use the correct pin tool on the adjustable cup and back it off while holding the lockring in position until the bearings spin smoothly without any play...this takes a little fiddling and back-and-forth but it's typical of normal bearing adjustments. Don't let the shell rotate when cinching down the lockring.

I have three bikes with identical Bayliss-Wiley bottom bracket assemblies. They should not come loose.
by: 24.215.86.83

†††††††††† RE:RE:MISC:†††Thanet bb problems posted by Warren on 5/4/2009 at 4:20:06 PM
I used the word shell but it should be sleeve, what you refer to as insert.
by: 24.215.86.83

†††††††††† RE:MISC:†††Thanet bb problems posted by Keith Body on 5/5/2009 at 10:56:44 AM
Hi Hugo
I knew Les Cassell very well. The bearing insert should have a tapered lock ring, and a taper on the fixed cup. The original oiler was a bit longer than normal, and I believe a 3/16 thread. There should be no mechanical reason for the bracket internal to turn, but has the shell stretched a bit?
I think you should be able to use the 49A.
Your bike was unfortunately devised for 26 inch wheels, fitting more modern stuff was always a problem.
Email me if you wish.
Keith
by: 92.20.26.139

†††††††††† RE:MISC: Thanet bb problems posted by Hilary Stone on 5/5/2009 at 11:15:35 AM
Frequently the cups are replace with the incorrect type on the Bayliss Willey BBs such as fitted to Thanet Silverlights - the special BW fixed cup with the taper and the special lockring are pretty much essential. My Silverlight does not have an oiler in its hole and the BB does not move and has not moved for the past twenty-four years. But when I first had my SL I fitted Chater cups to the insert and of course without the tapers had horrendous problems on a V-CC Cambridge 50 - I went back to the proper BW cup and lockring and have not had troubles since. But you should be able to replace the axle with a Stronglight or TA one if you want to use a cotterless set. And since most Silverlights were built with generous clearances you'll find I think that modern 700C rims and tyres will fit just fine. But don't try and spread the rear triangle wider as I have see a few Sliverlights with broken chainstays over the years... Could I have the frame number of your SL to put on the register please - its most commonly on the inside of the LH dropout.


by: 212.183.134.128

†††††††††† RE:RE:MISC: Thanet bb problems posted by Warren on 5/5/2009 at 12:39:00 PM
Hugo, I have an extra BW fixed cup with taper if you want it but I don't have the matching lockring. Ping me if you want it.
by: 24.215.86.83

†††††††††† RE:MISC:¬†¬†¬†Thanet bb problems posted by Hugo on 5/14/2009 at 10:48:43 AM
My apologies to everyone who kindly responded to my questions for not checking back sooner. I'm afraid I'm used to another forum that sends a notice when replies are received.

Since my first post I have spent a fair bit of time measuring the BB parts and trying to understand how it all works. I found, for example, that the inner diameter of the SL's BB shell measures 38.3mm whereas the tapered shoulders of the lockring and fixed cup (both TDC) measured 37.1mm and 37mm respectively at the widest part of their tapers. Now, I have presumed this meant that the wedging effect of the tapers was nil and that's where my problems lay. I think this is supported by Hilary Stone.

However, from reading Warren's post I get the impression that perhaps the BB insert is stabilised within the BB shell, not by the tapered shoulders of the lockring and fixed cup, but by the clamping force of the fixed cup on the drive side and the adjuster/lockring assembly on the left. Is that right? I'd been thinking that perhaps lockrings and fixed cups were available with larger diameter tapered shoulders. Or perhaps that the Bayliss Wiley version of the insert unit featured ring and cup with bigger shoulder tapers. I note that HS recommends the BW version.

David - thank you for the link. I've bookmarked it just in case.

I'm very surprised that Keith Body says the SL was made for 26" wheels, this being supported by Hilary Stone! My SL came with 27" Dunlop Lightweights, which were so warped to make them unusable. I have since replaced them with a pair of Conloy Asps but with both sets of wheels I have had no problem at all of reach with a pair of GB Hiduminium calipers (I have a pair of Lytalloys that I haven't got round to fitting). The brake shoes are positioned in the middle of the caliper slots. Moreover, the generous clearance HS mentions is still generous with the 27" wheels. Given that clearance I would never have suspected this frame was meant to take 26" wheels.

Talking of brakes, my SL was evidently designed to take Resilion brakes as it has little mounting holes in the forks and seat stays. I'm undecided whether to find a set and return the machine to its original configuration. The Resilion look very nice. An unfortunate result of my SL having been converted to stirrups is that in drilling the fork bridge a hole has been put through an ornate T on the crown and it is necessarily hidden by the caliper. It would be nice to reveal that.

Something I would like to lay my hands on is a curved seat post. Does anyone know of one?

Thank you all again for your kind advice and information. It is very much appreciated.



by: 120.51.183.136

†††††††††† RE:MISC:†††Thanet bb problems posted by Hugo on 5/14/2009 at 11:02:28 AM
To Hilary Stone - the frame number is SL1519 although there is a very slight chance the last digit is 8 as the bottom half is stamped less heavily than the top and is hardly visible through the paint. The proportion suggests to me a 9. If you would like me to be absolutely certain I could scrape the paint off the lower half.

Any information you can give me about this particular machine will be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
by: 120.51.183.136

†††††††††† RE:MISC:†††Thanet bb problems posted by Hugo on 5/14/2009 at 5:27:22 PM
The last digit is definitely a 9. It's daylight now and easier to see.
by: 120.51.183.136

†††††††††† RE:MISC:†††Thanet bb problems posted by Keith Body on 5/15/2009 at 1:54:21 PM
Hi Hugo
First the holes drilled through with 1/4 inch tubes inserted were not for brakes, but front and rear carriers.
I said the frames were devised for 26's, like most early post WW2 bikes, as Les had experience only of pre-war touring on low gear fixed wheels. With 27's the chain stays star getting too long. I suspect the bracket shell has stretched by having the unit bracket interior wobbling about. These frames do not take kindly to modern gearing, or any sort of enthusiast riding. I will send you my other thoughts by email, being not too complimentary.
Hilary has the frame numbers, are they in his book?
Keith

by: 92.22.177.23

†††††††††† RE:MISC:†††Thanet bb problems posted by Hugo on 5/15/2009 at 4:58:46 PM
Hello Keith,
Thank you for your reply.
I'm pretty sure the holes are for Resilion brakes. They are 3.8mm in diameter, or a touch over 1/8 inch, and seem to be in the same position as the mounting points for the brakes on this machine, recently spld on ebay:
http://tinyurl.com/og9lnj

If the BB shell is stretched I assume it would be so at the outer ends, sort of 'mushroomed', as that's where the stresses would be. I've been trying to measure any difference but need some other sort of measuring device than my Vernier. But I see what you mean. Perhaps the solution is to use a BB unit David has mentioned above.

When you say "the chain stays start getting too long" with larger wheels do you mean it stresses the frame or affects the handling?

I haven't heard from Hilary apart from what you see here.


by: 120.51.183.136

†††††††††† RE:MISC: Thanet bb problems posted by Hilary Stone on 7/24/2009 at 11:01:20 AM
I am sorry not to have replied earlier but I had somehow missed all the updates since about the 14th May...
SL1519 was supplied to a Mr German of Croydon on the 20/7/50.
I had not meant to imply all Thanets were built for 26in wheels though many were. This one was built for 27s and for Resilion cantilever brakes - I have recently got some bits for Resilion braze-on brakes if Hugo would like to contact me direct he is welcome to (hilary dot stone at blueyonder dot co dot uk) The holes in stays and fork blades are for the special braze-on version Resilion cantilever brake as used on pre-war Sunbeams as well. Some Silverlights do have special braze-on fittings for racks too but not this one I think from what is in the copy of the records I have. It was however built for a hub gear...

I think what Keith was referring to is that Silverlight frames are not very rigid despite what Thanet claimed in their advertising. This is primarily down to using 1in diameter seat and down tubes and small diameter chainstays - on larger frames such as this one it is particularly apparent.
by: 82.46.3.68




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AGE / VALUE:†††doulphin bike posted by: bill k on 5/1/2009 at 11:09:22 AM
have anyone hears of a bike called a doulphin ,recentley bought one beleive its a 1972 model racing bike
by: 209.112.199.164

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†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††doulphin bike posted by David on 5/3/2009 at 4:23:22 AM
"Dauphin," perhaps?
by: 216.15.114.27




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AGE / VALUE:†††Information about the manufacturer posted by: Mike Norden on 4/29/2009 at 8:11:54 AM
Hi, I recently aquired a Croysdale drop handlebar road bike from the Kidderminster area.
Despite an internet search I have not been able to come up with anything about the maunfacturer.
The frame is a light, neatly finished steel job with good quality lugs, and generous clearances for mudguards.
The paintwork appears to be the original but there is no frame number stamped anywhere, nor are there any signs of one having been ground away.
The chainset is a Stronglight with 52T/42T alloy rings and the rear wheel has a 6 speed block 13T/32T.
The headstock, seatube & downtube carry transfers that say CROYSDALE England.
I would guess the age at bettween 20-35 years old. Any help with further information would be welcome.
Thanks Mike Norden.
by: 92.9.122.64

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AGE / VALUE:†††Kasyk road bike posted by: Paul on 4/28/2009 at 2:29:24 PM
Hi!

Do you know anything about KASYK? I have not found anything on the net about this bike except this http://www.radlager.at/detail/21/, in description says "Ungarn 80er Jahre" which means 80' Hunagry. Someone says that is a japanese bike.. so i'm a little confused.

Thanks, Paul


by: 89.32.208.197


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†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Kasyk road bike posted by David on 4/28/2009 at 8:29:53 PM
Looks like a good bike. Any indication of its construction? Type of tubing, brands of lugs, dropouts, etc. Components used? There's no reason why there wouldn't be good bikes from Hungary.
by: 216.15.114.27

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Kasyk road bike posted by Paul on 5/1/2009 at 2:50:54 PM
here are some detailed photos with the bike


by: 193.138.194.25





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MISC:†††Holdsworth?? Model?? Year?? posted by: Paul E Bailey on 4/28/2009 at 12:44:25 PM
Hi,
I hope some readers may help identify this frame. It was sold as a Holdsworth on ebay. I paid a C note and it arrived with brush applied silver paint, now stripped.

There was chrome on forks and partial rear triangle. I originally intended to go single speed so I ground off all the cable management braze-ons. Now the restoration bug has bitten and I will likely have that stuff replaced.

I have pics of matching serial numbers off the bottom bracket and fork; F & R drop-outs, seat tube lug joint, head tube, top tube, and seat stays. I hope these reveal vital clues.

Any input is appreciated, even if it turns out to be an unremarkable bike.

Thanks, Paul


by: 71.202.241.92


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†††††††††† RE:MISC:†††Holdsworth?? Model?? Year?? posted by Warren on 4/28/2009 at 6:37:09 PM
You didn't mention the seat tube diameter. If it's a 27.2, I'd guess it could be a Holdsworth Special, made throughout the 80's. The semi-longpoint lugs and the partial chrome triangle reinforces that timeframe. A $100 for a nice 80's double butted frame with Campag drops isn't too shabby.

IMHO, having already ground off the braze-ons and chrome, cut your losses and proceed with the fixed gear concept. You'll lose far too much time and money restoring this one back to original and in the end it won't be worth a lot. Don't ask me how I know this to be true. It's much better to invest in a complete and unadulterated frame or bike.
by: 24.215.86.83

†††††††††† RE:MISC:†††Holdsworth?? Model?? Year?? posted by Paul E Bailey on 4/28/2009 at 8:00:46 PM
Thanks for the input.

I lost my calipers, so I can't tell the od tubing dim. I do think it's early 80's era, though. There were no shifter bosses, just a 'stop' for the shifter clamp. Orig rear OLN was 120mm, so it could be older...

As regards cutting my losses, I have already assembled most of what I need: Stronglight 107 cranks, early D-A wide flange hubs, 3TTT stem & bars, B17 saddle, complete Suntour Cyclone II trans, Saveedra Headset & rims, Superbe pedals, SR Laprade post, Modolo Pro brakeset. All approx period: '79-'83

What's left is chrome, paint, spokes, & bb.

I take your meaning re "better to invest in an unadulterated" (unmodified) frame, but I wouldn't go through all this for profit. I already know there's little if any to be had. Pride of craft, and ownership of a true classic lightweight means I get to park the handsomest bike at the cafe.

I'd still like to know for certain, what it is....
by: 71.202.241.92

†††††††††† RE:MISC:†††Holdsworth?? Model?? Year?? posted by Keith Body on 4/30/2009 at 2:53:56 PM
Looks to me like a typical 1960's frame. Could be Holdsworthy Company. If your saddle pillar (seat pin) is marked 27.2 and is correct you have butted tubinng, surely 531. Solid top eyes on the seat lug. Odd hole in the campagnolo fork end, mudguard eyes removed, Holdsworthy would have left them on originally.
by: 92.21.251.176

†††††††††† RE:MISC:†††Holdsworth?? Model?? Year?? posted by Paul E Bailey on 5/4/2009 at 12:00:35 PM
Latest on the "Holdsworth":
The two small tapped holes in the right rear drop-out are for the Porta Catena. 'member that little deely-bop?
Introduced in 1977.
Holdsworth was "THE" Campy distributor in GB during this time.
So, The frame can't be older than '77.
Also, 125mm OLN could have been orig to accomodate the PC, as apparently (per Dave Moulton blog) the PC required the additional 5mm.?!?...

Thanks for input, Keith.
I think you are seconding Warren's opinion re: 27.2 seat tube ID meaning dbl butted tubing. I can now confirm that ID. I found a seat pin clearly labeled: 27.2 and it's a nice fit.

I gather dble butted tubing had a definite applicability to higher end frames.

What are "solid top eyes" on the seat lug?

Campy 1010b drop-outs were specifically non-touring - no mudguard eyes, not nevah.

What "odd hole" in fork end?

Thanks again, folks for all your attention.
by: 71.202.241.92




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AGE / VALUE:†††Commodore Red Hill. posted by: erik. on 4/25/2009 at 5:03:48 AM
Can sommebody tell me how much this bicicle is worth?
Commodore Red Hill(gold design)Model Grand Prix.3TTT
Grand Sport.derailleur:Campagnolo Nuovo.
Made in Italy.
In good shape!
by: 81.165.212.183

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†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Commodore Red Hill. posted by jj on 4/26/2009 at 9:57:15 AM
Check the price guide at the top of this page
by: 71.184.108.192




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AGE / VALUE:†††Jeunet Franche Comte posted by: Michelle Caldwell on 4/23/2009 at 1:44:44 PM
My mother has a 70s Jeunet that she wants to sell. She has decided that she is ready for more of a cruiser style bike. I am trying to find out how much she should ask for it. I am not having success in finding other Jeunets for sale to give me an idea of what is reasonable to ask. She is the original owner and the bike has all it's original parts. I don't think there's a speck of rust on it. It needs new tyres (those kind with a sewn in tube that have to be glued to the wheel). I am sure she can dig up the receipt to find the exact year she bought it. Here's the info I got from the bike itself.

Jeunet Franche-Comte
Specialites TA Pedals
Simplex Rear Shifter
Mafac "Racer" Brakes
Mountain Tour Seat
Mavic Wheels
Tornade Solibloc Pump
Campagnolo Front Shifter
M.M. Atom Quick Release (front & rear wheel)

I have additional photos of the components that I could find names on and can take other close-ups of other parts of the bike on request.


by: 98.149.225.1


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†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††Jeunet Franche Comte posted by David on 4/23/2009 at 6:26:34 PM
See http://classicrendezvous.com/France/Jeunet.htm
Yours looks like the Model 630. Check the frame for a Reynolds 531 sticker - this is the most important thing. Also see if you can find the original saddle. The bike is probably good quality, but its apparent excellent original condition is what could make it worth more than a hundred or two. Don't sell it until you find out more about it.
by: 216.15.114.27




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AGE / VALUE:†††STEYR Tourist De Luxe posted by: nick on 4/23/2009 at 7:24:15 AM
Looking for historical back-ground a frame. The headbadge says STEYR; Downtube has a Tourist de luxe decal in old script. It was apparently a 3-speed. Suprisingly light; it has braze-ons for cables, right fork light mount, pump. Any information is appreciated. thanks
by: 162.119.68.26

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†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††STEYR Tourist De Luxe posted by David on 4/23/2009 at 6:17:42 PM
Austrian, could be from 50s to 80s or so. Pictures?
by: 216.15.114.27

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††STEYR Tourist De Luxe posted by nick on 4/24/2009 at 9:26:12 PM
Here are some pictures of this interesting frame. Sorry about the poor focus: the headbadge says made in austria. The bars, saddle, and wheels have been added for effect. Note what seems to be an unusually long chainstay; the seat-tube is 21" I imagine the bracket on the fork is for a lamp


by: 71.204.142.173


†††††††††† RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:†††STEYR Tourist De Luxe posted by Warren on 4/26/2009 at 4:32:59 PM
It's nice looking...I'd guess that it's a late 50's bike based only on the braze-on for the cable pulley. That was a popular feature on Brit bikes at that time.
by: 24.215.86.83




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FOR SALE:†††Fontan posted by: steven on 4/22/2009 at 7:31:35 PM
I have this bike made in France by a company called "Fontan" can any one tell me about them?.. the bottom is stamped TS179
please help!!!
by: 24.224.107.74

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†††††††††† RE:FOR SALE:†††Fontan posted by David on 4/23/2009 at 5:27:00 AM
Might be good, might be bad. Examine it and report details about frame construction and components. Pix if possible.
by: 216.15.114.27




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MISC:†††mercier bike posted by: Anthony on 4/22/2009 at 6:12:36 PM
i have a mercier 10 speed, i believe we purchased around 1970 in toronto canada, i had it checked out years ago for like a tune up, the teck pointed out things like factory painted areas of the bike versus decals and other fetures, ican't remember, the color is like a teal,the seat is really hard with no cushioning, any info would be appreciated, if i have a reply i can really go over the bike once i'm told what to look for,if you e-mailed me listed above i thank you for your consideration-Anthony
by: 64.12.116.70

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†††††††††† RE:MISC:†††mercier bike posted by David on 4/23/2009 at 5:25:23 AM
Merciers run the gamut from not-very-good to top quality. See http://classicrendezvous.com/France/Mercier_main.htm
by: 216.15.114.27




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FOR SALE:†††VINTAGE BOB JACKSON posted by: Kyle on 4/22/2009 at 9:31:03 AM
I have a late 70's BOB Jackson 57cm complete bike for sale. Complete Campy setup from the crank set to the brake pads all campy nuovo record/record. Original black paint. Extremely well taken care of. Asking $1400 firm


by: 69.122.171.152


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MISC:†††freewheels posted by: david weinberger on 4/20/2009 at 1:34:02 PM
I have a 1968 vintage Frejus with Campy hubs on to which was mounted a Suntour freewheel. I want to replace the freewheel as the small sprocket has been missing for a long time and I would likt to keep the bike as original. I will probably get a Regina or Atom freewheel as a replacement. How do I know if the freewheel has an English or Italian thread?
by: 65.217.153.100

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†††††††††† RE:MISC:†††freewheels posted by Warren on 4/20/2009 at 3:05:47 PM
And your Campy hub threading is?

It's complicated to be absolutely correct because of variations in hub and freewheel markings over the years. Keep it simple and get an ISO Regina freewheel. It will fit ISO, English and Italian hubs equally well.
by: 24.215.86.83

†††††††††† RE:RE:MISC:†††freewheels posted by Warren on 4/20/2009 at 3:10:54 PM
also assuming that the hub is not french threaded...
by: 24.215.86.83

†††††††††† RE:MISC:†††freewheels posted by Keith Body on 4/21/2009 at 5:28:21 AM
I have Campagnolo Record hubs which are marked on the shoulder behind the freewheel block with the threading details.
I have never seen a Campagnolo hub with the thread stripped in the thousands I handled, so its likely to be OK.
by: 92.2.68.253




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AGE / VALUE:†††JCPEENEY FORMOST FOREMOST posted by: kerri on 4/19/2009 at 8:51:19 PM
I have an old bike which I determoned was an old JC peeney foremost bike. I'm trying to find out if it's worth anything and if so what and where I can sell it at. It is taking up room in my basement. It is a womens bike.
by: 98.237.133.239

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†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††JCPEENEY FORMOST FOREMOST posted by jj on 4/20/2009 at 4:58:57 AM
There is one listed in the USED bike price guide at the top of this page.
by: 71.184.108.192

†††††††††† RE:AGE / VALUE:†††JCPEENEY FORMOST FOREMOST posted by David on 4/21/2009 at 7:35:54 AM
Department store bikes are not usually worth as much as the ones carrying the factory brand. If yours is English (probably Raleigh-built) it would be worth somewhat less than a similar Raleigh. Women's frame bikes are generally worth less than men's frame, also. (Though their condition is often better.)
by: 216.15.114.27

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