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Vintage Lightweights

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AGE / VALUE:   Help Identifying an old Schwinn Road Bike posted by: Bryan on 4/16/2009 at 6:50:10 PM
So I have an old Schwinn that I've been riding for awhile and I want to ID the year and model. I've been reading up on the serial codes but I can't really figure too much out.

It was made in Japan and has the four digit code on the headbadge of 0450. So as I understand it this means it means it was made on the 45th day of 1970 or 1980. So according to that coding it was made on Feb 14, 1970 or 1980.

The second code near the left rear axle reads B023047. Now I believe this means it was made in February of a year ending in zero as well, but what does the rest tell me?

I've also attached a couple pictures as well, does this help at all with identifying it? Many thanks.

Pictures:
http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/8436/img0092t.jpg
http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/4391/img0090j.jpg
http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/250/img0091o.jpg
by: 69.86.117.236

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           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Help Identifying an old Schwinn Road Bike posted by David on 4/17/2009 at 6:22:27 AM
Could it be a Traveler? See
http://www.geocities.com/sldbconsumer8/1979/79ccpg06b.jpg
I doubt the serial numbering of Japanese Schwinns is going to tell you very much.
by: 216.15.114.27

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Help Identifying an old Schwinn Road Bike posted by ken on 4/20/2009 at 11:10:25 AM
I think '80 is right - no Japanese lightweight Schwinns as early as '70 anyway, and as David notes, the SLDB shows the suicide levers, center pull brakes and stem shifters on the whole range. Browse the '79 consumer catalog on that site. Perhaps the component selection will give you the answer, although they do change from one year to the next. What derailleurs and cranks has it got?
The date code on the Japanese badge is consistent with the dropout number. your bike was a Valentine!
by: 209.7.150.163

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Help Identifying an old Schwinn Road Bike posted by stinnergy on 7/7/2009 at 6:39:43 PM
I believe Travelers had side-pulls and were a lugged import as an alternative to the Varsity. My best guess is this is a LeTour because of the center-pulls and was a lugged import as an alternative to the Continental. However it should have quick release to be a LeTour. ya got me.
by: 69.228.94.161




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WANTED:   Viscount Aerospace" parts posted by: Steven Brereton on 4/16/2009 at 3:13:18 PM
Hi every one
I am after some Viscount Aerospace (remember them?) parts:
22" - 24.5" frame (Viscount Aerospace Pro, GP, Sport)
Cranks (look like TA but are a copy!)
Chainwheels (the larger 52 tooth one has large round holes cut out of it)
Decals - model name eg "Viscount", "Aerospace Pro", Viscount 'shield'(has Viscount diagonally across it)
Brake lever hoods (look a bit like Mafac ones as only cover the top bit of the lever)
Thanks!!!!!!!!

by: 86.29.28.14

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           RE:WANTED:   Viscount Aerospace posted by Warren on 4/16/2009 at 7:09:22 PM
Viscount decals on ebay...item 390037108615
by: 24.215.86.83

           RE:WANTED:   Viscount Aerospace posted by Paul Gobat on 4/27/2009 at 7:27:15 AM
Steve...

I have 1 Lambert in 23" and 1 Viscount in 22 1/2" frame. Complete bikes including the death forks, both in good shape. I rebuilt the Lambert wheels with stainless steel spokes a looong time ago and the original (Simplex) rear derailleur was replaced with a Suntour V Luxe. The Viscount does not have the correct pedals and has a Shimano Titlist drivetrain. One of them (I forget) also has a different saddle. Interested? I don't want to split them up. If you want pics email me mirageguitarworks AT yahoo DOT com
by: 172.162.7.33

           RE:WANTED:   Viscount Aerospace posted by ken on 5/16/2009 at 2:41:05 PM
the following is a link to a viscount for sale on craigslist in Rockford IL good luck http://rockford.craigslist.org/bik/1173785500.html
by: 76.224.72.245




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AGE / VALUE:   c. 1910-ish lightweight: Need ur help w/ I.D. posted by: Kevin on 4/13/2009 at 5:43:35 PM
Hi all, hey i picked up this cool old bike at a yard sale and i dont know much about it. i need your assistance to tell me what brand, country and age it is. i recently pulled it apart. it seems to be all original - skip tooth block chain, wooden rims, leather "Elyria" saddle. 1 pc. crank w/ patent date of Mar. '98? and "AUBE..." on the flange/plate where the chainring mounts. there's an almost indistinguisable patent date of "Dec. 20, 95"? on the chainring. one of the distinctive features of the frame is how the seat post is secured. it uses what is essentially a headless set screw through the back of the seat tube, about 3/4" diameter w/ a concaved, pivoting end that matches up to the shape of the seat post. maybe someone will recognize the remains of the headbadge/decal by its shape. (image posting not cooperating)

thanks for any insight you can give, kevin

by: 68.96.70.91

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           RE:AGE / VALUE:   c. 1910-ish lightweight: Need ur help w/ I.D. posted by kevin on 4/14/2009 at 10:41:01 AM
photos available at http://s640.photobucket.com/albums/uu127/KL2_photos/old%20bikes/ thanks


by: 68.96.70.91


           RE:AGE / VALUE:   c. 1910-ish lightweight: Need ur help w/ I.D. posted by Keith Body on 4/15/2009 at 1:08:11 PM
Great find, very interesting, I would like to see more details. I can see what looks like a cast seat lug cluster, fully brazed, which was a type thought to have been originated in 1913 by Bastide in Paris. A lot of cycle engineers in the late 1890's used various methods of securing the seat post, probably not considering the poor construction of a pinch bolt as we have now.
Also the saddle fixing could do with more pictures. Campagnolo made the clamp type saddle fixing mid 1950's, and you have something similar here. I would like to see the frame angles and lugs (sockets in those days).
The one piece crank set was not used in Europe, so your bike was likely a track racer from early 20th century, US in origin.
Do you have the front forks, and other fittings?
I believe there was a famous saddle maker in the town of Elyria.
The inch pitch block chain might have a makers name stamped on the side plates. Are the wheels 32/40 spoked, and look for a name on the rims, also see how the join is laminated. most wood rims were made in France from American maple with several laminations, but I can't see these.
I sold new Renold block chains in the 1950's.
by: 92.21.89.193

           RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   c. 1910-ish lightweight: Need ur help w/ I.D. posted by kevin on 4/15/2009 at 6:47:48 PM
hi ken, thanks for all your insight and suggestions. i'll have a closer look at the rims and chain and will get more pix up for you. yes, i have forks. too. will clean them up and show w/ head set.

what is interesting to me is how fine all the threads are. wiat til you see the bottom bracket bearing cup/race. very well machined and beefy. youre right about elyria - birthplace of the padded bike seat... http://www.ohiohistorycentral.org/entry.php?rec=2610.

do you have any good leads on tubular tires for it. i'd love to get a new block chain for it. are they available?

thanks again

kevin

by: 68.96.70.91

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   c. 1910-ish lightweight: Need ur help w/ I.D. posted by Keith Body on 4/16/2009 at 1:58:26 PM
Hi Kevin, I was a lightweight and racing cycle specialist in UK in the 1950's and 60's, and lack experience of the US cycle market of 100 years ago. It seems your bike may have been fairly standard around 1900, the saddle and top fixing was apparently quite common, and the wheels would probably be 32/36 with elm rims, no laminations.
There is a detailed recent posting on the hi-wheeler section about an Acme Sears of 1898 with a link to their complete 1898 catalogue. I find this interesting that frame design and angles are remarkably upright and modern, appear well engineered, and weighed only 25 pounds. (no brakes). Some built with drawn tubing. It's worth looking at the Sears offerings of 1898, for their style. Your wheels may have been described originally as 28 inch, but with smaller tubular tyres we would have considered them a nominal 27 inch.
If you have the complete chain it might be useable after a good soaking in oil.

by: 92.23.209.104

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   c. 1910-ish lightweight: Need ur help w/ I.D. posted by Keith Body on 4/17/2009 at 2:21:18 PM
Kevin, I think the name on your one piece crank set is "Fauber"
Keith
by: 92.0.117.7

           RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   c. 1910-ish lightweight: Need ur help w/ I.D. posted by kevin on 4/22/2009 at 6:35:53 PM
keith, thanks a lot for the insight and your expertise. i'l look into sears listings, etc.

kevin

by: 68.96.70.91




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AGE / VALUE:   Motobecane Super Mirage posted by: Evan on 4/11/2009 at 8:18:32 PM
I'm building up a Super Mirage frame that I got from a friend. He was in a wreck with it and the fork is bent to hell but otherwise the frame is solid. I have the stock handlebars, but that it. I'm taking misc parts I have and building it up into a 5-speed.

I'm trying to figure out if this is the downtube shifter model or not. What should I be looking for?

Also, it looks like I'm missing the derailer cable guide that mounts under the bottom bracket. Anyone know of a good place to find/fashion a replacement?
by: 71.194.43.230

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           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Motobecane Super Mirage posted by Keith Body on 4/20/2009 at 12:43:57 PM
Hi Evan, Sure to be a down tube gear control, and not unknown for bikes to be built with the gear cable going through a short outer casing under the bottom bracket. Perhaps some pictures of the brazed on fittings etc. might help. Is the cable stop on the rear of the chainstay above or below? Keith
by: 92.23.135.245




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MISC:   HERCULES 3-Speed posted by: nick on 4/8/2009 at 7:10:37 PM
This bike cleaned up nicely. SN is BN 7489. Still looking for more information/history about this bike that was apparently made in Birmingham, England thanks


by: 71.204.142.173


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           RE:MISC:���HERCULES 3-Speed posted by Warren on 4/9/2009 at 3:27:17 PM
Birmingham made means pre-1960 when Raleigh took over BCC. Metallic blue was popular in the 50's and 60's so I'm guessing mid to late 50's for your bike. Tough to date without an SA hub because there's no Herc serial number charts that I know of. It's an odd chainguard...like half of an enclosed case. Hercules rear hubs also used older style threaded drivers. Add some mudguards and you're good to go.
by: 24.215.86.83

           RE:RE:MISC:���HERCULES 3-Speed posted by nick on 4/9/2009 at 6:20:57 PM
warren, thanks for your response. the chainguard seems to be complete as it is. you would think they would want to show off the lettering of the crank anyway. going to open up the hub for cleaning/lube this weekend. the handling/steering is a bit squirrelly: it doesn't make sense because the frame seems straight. will post final pics with bell, new/old shifter, mud-guards. thanks again
by: 162.119.68.26




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AGE / VALUE:   1966 Columbia Tourist III posted by: Holly on 4/8/2009 at 8:45:44 AM
I just bought a ladies 1966 Columbia Tourist III (determined this from the serial #) in pretty nice condition and wanted to learn more about it (are the parts original? what's it worth?). It has a bit of surface rust, but the paint is in pretty good condition and it rides well. It has a Mesinger seat, no markings on the gear shift.

26"x1.375" tires
Original paint (mostly intact - some is worn off)
Seat condition - good on top, a bit rusty underneath.

More photos here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/theholidaygirl/sets/72157616488748076/


by: 12.40.172.3


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AGE / VALUE:   Cannondale H400 posted by: Gralyn on 4/7/2009 at 8:23:54 PM
I picked up a Cannondale H400. It's obviously a "Hybrid" bike....it looks more like a mountain bike than it does a touring bike. So, I guess it's a hybrid that leans toward the mountain side. Anyway, I saw it advertised as a "Touring" bike...it was difficult to tell anything from the picture.....but when I went and saw it - it obviously wasn't strictly a touring bike. It looked really nice - and in really good condition - so I got it.
I tried to research some information - and I saw some pics of an H400 as a "touring" bike....with drop bars, down-tube shifters, etc. I thought of building it to more a touring bike.
It has bosses for accommodating down tube shifters. It has cantilever brakes - and I have front and rear racks that are designed to mount on the cantilever bolts. It has 700C wheels...and the rims are narrow enough for 28, 32, 35, etc. width tires. It has triple cranks, of course. I think it will make a decent touring bike - although the seat stays and chain stays are beefy. But, with the aluminum construction - it will be relatively light.
I would like to find out whether some of these frames were made as Hybrids and some of them made as Touring bikes.
by: 64.136.27.231

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           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cannondale H400 posted by Warren on 4/8/2009 at 6:54:36 AM
The C'dale hybrids have different geometry than the touring bikes but that's not a problem if the bike fits you well after you've swapped in the drop bars. The tourers also had larger diameter forks, down tubes and seat/chainstays. They also had the front braze-ons for low riders as well as a third bottle cage mount under the top tube. All said, your bike will make a good tourer.
by: 24.215.86.83

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cannondale H400 posted by Gralyn on 4/9/2009 at 8:18:56 PM
My Cannondale is actually an "SH400" rather than an "H400". But I have already started on it. I've stripped it down, cleaned, waxed, touch-up, etc. and I will be building up for touring. The frame is pretty light - even though it has the beefy stays and the ChroMo fork. Maybe in the future - I will replace the fork with an aluminum one or a carbon one.....but it will have to accommodate cantilever brakes.
by: 64.136.27.231

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cannondale H400 posted by Tony on 11/16/2009 at 5:01:53 PM
I picked up a well used non-functioning Cannondale SH400 mostly complete for 25 bucks.. I found the brochure for cannondale bikes and the SH400 was only made in 1990. I have made mine a single speed (40t up front 16t out back) commuter with bullhorn handle bars. Halfway up the front fork has stays for a pannier rack. The frame geometry is road. I decided to leave mine scratched up and have put mostly used parts on it as the deraillers and original shifters were shot. I was able to put regular canti's (tektro Oryx) on the back but, the front takes canti's but nothing I can find will work as the canti bosses are shorter than normal. Well good luck with yours.
by: 66.162.146.171

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cannondale H400 posted by J Voskuhl on 12/20/2010 at 8:39:10 PM
I too have a SH400. Any luck finding a front canti to fit? I'm the original owner and am doing a wholesale replacement. Got the Cane Creek cantis on the back.

thanks-
by: 74.131.145.195




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AGE / VALUE:   Help identifying this (German?) Track Frame posted by: Thomas on 4/7/2009 at 3:44:24 PM
Hi, I'm an oldroads 'vigin' who is looking for help identifying this track frame. The previous owner brought it over from Germany, so I figure that may be the best place to start (and yes, I know German bikes are especially problematic on these boards). It's a 57cm frame with a 27.2 seat post, Bocama competition 83 lugs (@60 degrees), fairly unique drillouts on the track ends (I have seen similar on a Rickert; but his serial number schema seems to be completely different), and no discernible marks on the fork or elsewhere. Despite the fact that the fork looks much older than the frame, both carry the same serial number:
WG
(57on the bootom bracket)
311963
RY

I would be delighted if anybody could give me any clues to the provenance of this bike. I've tried both bikeforums and an analogous German chat board, so far to no avail.

Cheers and thanks in advance,

Thomas


by: 212.129.80.230


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AGE / VALUE:   Vintage Schwinn Hiawatha Scout posted by: Kathy on 4/6/2009 at 2:36:49 PM
I have found a really in good shape Schwinn Hiawatha Gamble's Scout with I think original, Seat,pedals,,well I think the whole thing is original except maybe the tires.. The serial number that I found is 35551 and am wondering if anyone had anymore info as to what yr this might be and how to find out more about it, thanks, KAthy
by: 98.23.195.152

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           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Vintage Schwinn Hiawatha Scout posted by David on 4/8/2009 at 6:09:39 AM
You'll get more info on the Middleweight and Ballooner msg board. I doubt that it's Schwinn: see
http://www.nostalgic.net/hiawatha.htm
by: 216.15.114.27




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WANTED:   Cyclo Benelux rear derailleur posted by: ronp6 on 4/5/2009 at 8:22:00 AM
I am looking for the derailleru for a '59 Lenton Grand Prix. It currently has a Huret but since it isn't proper I thought I'd try to correct it.

From those who have had them on bikes; how do they shift?
by: 75.67.133.117

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           RE:WANTED:   Cyclo Benelux rear derailleur posted by Keith Body on 4/5/2009 at 3:18:02 PM
I used the early version in 1951/2 for road racing, and could change front and rear gears at the same time while climbing off the saddle, by means of cyclo handlebar controls. Doubt if you will get more than 26t large cog. Suitable for close ratio chainrings, 47/50 was fairly standard.
Also sliding shaft tends to suffer in the rain.
by: 92.1.240.247

           RE:WANTED:   Cyclo Benelux rear derailleur posted by ronp6 on 4/5/2009 at 5:38:58 PM
Thanks for the info Keith. I don't think I will be shifting the suicide shifter and the downtube rear shifter at the same time (Or is that why they call it a suicide shifter?). The bike is very close ratio currently as it was designed for the Cyclo Benelux. It will make the hills a test.

I hope I can hunt one down. The rest of the bike is all original.

Ron

by: 75.67.133.117




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MISC:   RRA ebay outing posted by: Warren on 4/3/2009 at 12:25:22 PM
Here's a quality restoration of a beautiful club bike...
# 370181723233

by: 24.215.86.83

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           RE:MISC:   RRA ebay outing posted by Keith body on 4/5/2009 at 1:25:06 PM
I see it's Hilary Stone's.
I don't think the wheels are original, surely would have had Dunlop steel HP's, and I doubt the Harden small flange front hub. Also the Binda bars and reynold stem are wrong.
With a head clip it would not have needed the expander bolt. Nice bike of its type though. For a Raleigh quite rideable.

by: 92.0.104.213

           RE:RE:MISC:   RRA ebay outing posted by Warren on 4/6/2009 at 5:08:59 PM
I'm sure you're right about the parts but to be fair, he does say it's a period correct restoration. I was also under the impression that the old RRA's typically had the dual clamp system on the headset.

It's just the type of bike I like
by: 24.215.86.83

           RE:MISC:   RRA ebay outing posted by Steve on 4/7/2009 at 8:02:27 AM
This was the bike that inspired me to an orgy of assembling club-type bikes back in '02-'03. :)
by: 75.151.106.1




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MISC:   Seat tube decal fro 50s Grubb posted by: Dan on 4/3/2009 at 2:12:48 AM
I was wondering if anyone had any idea of the set decal best suited for the down tube of a 1950's Freddie Grubb (Holdsworth era) track / path frame.

The head tube badge is the man on bike (as opposed to the crossed flags), but I am unable to find a picture of the appropriate seat tube equivalent.

Thanks
by: 194.203.201.92

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           RE:MISC:   Seat tube decal fro 50s Grubb posted by Keith Body on 4/5/2009 at 3:22:22 PM
Sold a lot of these in the later 50's, about £9.50? Plain guage 531, general purpose frame with clearance for mudguards. Well built for a cheapish frame. I seem to think the transfers were in the form of F H Grubb as a signature, could be wrong.
by: 92.1.240.247




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MISC:   Bottecchia, early 70's BB posted by: Lawson on 3/31/2009 at 3:32:07 PM
Hey everybody. I'm trying to replace the cranks/chainring/BB of my bottecchia, but am having a really (really) hard time finding a bb that will work. Any suggestions?

Thanks guys.

Lawson
by: 68.143.22.42

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           RE:MISC:   Bottecchia, early 70's BB posted by Warren on 3/31/2009 at 7:52:21 PM
Cottered or cotterless crank? How long is the axle. I may have one.
by: 24.215.86.83

           RE:MISC:   Bottecchia, early 70's BB posted by ken on 4/1/2009 at 1:38:03 PM
What BB was in it? What crankset do you want to use? Have you read all about it at
http://sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html
?
by: 209.7.150.163

           RE:RE:MISC:   Bottecchia, early 70's BB posted by Gralyn on 4/2/2009 at 6:47:32 AM
It probably has Italian threaded cups
by: 64.136.27.231

           RE:MISC:   Bottecchia, early 70's BB posted by Lawson on 4/20/2009 at 12:19:18 PM
Actually, I got this figured out (after talking to 4 mechanics)...I'm not looking to do original, so I went with a 70X113 Shimano italian threaded BB. It's octa link so I'm changing out the cranks/double chainring and freewheel also. turning into a 14 speed.
by: 198.190.216.43




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MISC:   Seeking ball bearing size: Front Normandy Luxe Competition posted by: David H. Hatch on 3/31/2009 at 1:31:37 PM
Hi all, first time posting here. I am rebuilding a front Normandy Luxe Competition hub [not a Red Label]. When I opened it up it was obvious that the ball bearings were not the original size, as they were too small, doubling up. Does anyone know what the correct ball size is supposed to be for these hubs? The bike is a mid-1970's Motobecane Grand Record, silver. Thanks! Dave Hatch in Green Bay, Wisconsin.
by: 72.133.54.98

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           RE:MISC:   Seeking ball bearing size: Front Normandy Luxe Competition posted by David H. Hatch on 4/1/2009 at 5:15:26 AM
Greetings to the group. I have my answer about the Normandy Luxe Competition front hub. Mine had been previously rebuilt, the original cones replaced. A helper at Yellow Jersey answers my question...

"10x10, 3/16 inch [balls]. The problem isn't the balls per se, it's the cone shape. Normandy Comp can't use a typical cone - the cups are an odd diameter. With a Campagnolo GS or Shimano or Normandy/Atom Sport type cone, the balls will not ride on the center of the bearing surface at all." And found in a discussion group, "Luxe/Luxe Competition cones are indeed weird. The cone is shallower with a more blunt profile than the usual graceful curves of other loose ball hubs. They still take ten 3/16" balls each side front and nine 1/4" rear. I never heard a good explanation for that. Those cones are the inverse of their contemporary first generation Dura Ace cones which are smaller and longer with a deeper cut. Those also use the standard bearing count and sizes."

See: http://www.cyclingforums.com/archive/index.php/t-196795.html

Sincerely - David H. Hatch
by: 72.133.54.98

           RE:MISC:   Seeking ball bearing size: Front Normandy Luxe Competition posted by Warren on 4/1/2009 at 3:06:13 PM
I'm not sure that this source has the right info. Chapter 11, page 1 of Sutherlands 4th Edition says that the Normandy Competition front hub with the shallow cut cone is an exception to standard and takes 12 3/16" balls per side.

This is what the bible says and it's usually right. These shallow cones may have wear issues, causing balls to slip out of position with time and wear.
by: 24.215.86.83

           RE:MISC: Seeking ball bearing size: Front Normandy Luxe Competition posted by David H. Hatch on 4/1/2009 at 9:00:52 PM
Thank-you Warren! I might just have to put Sutherlands on this Northerland's birthday wish list. VERY much appreciated. Dave in Green Bay
by: 72.133.54.98

           RE:RE:MISC: Seeking ball bearing size: Front Normandy Luxe Competition posted by Warren on 4/2/2009 at 7:36:35 AM
Yer welcome. If you're buying the physical manual ,the Fourth edition is a good choice for vintage bikes as it covers everything up to 85...a good transition point. It's when tradition started to be eclipsed by technology; indexed, clipless, cassettes, carbon fiber, suspension and titanium alloys had all been invented but had not been fully refined and exploited in order to make 14 lb race bikes. I digress...
I have no idea how comprehensive the digital Sutherlands discs are...I'm not sure if they include all the vintage info. Anyone else have experience with these?

I love the 3 ring "analog" shop manual...it's tough and easy to use.
by: 24.215.86.83

           RE:RE:RE:MISC: Seeking ball bearing size: Front Normandy Luxe Competition posted by Warren on 4/2/2009 at 7:38:16 AM
...seven ring actually
by: 24.215.86.83




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AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Lenton Grand Prix posted by: Ronp6 on 3/26/2009 at 7:46:44 PM
I have a barn find Lenton with all the original parts and little or no rust on the mechanical parts because it was well used and better lubed. Most of the transfers are quite good but showing their age. It is too small for me at 20 1/2" center to center. Does anyone in the Boston area have an equally interesting old bike that is too big for them to tade or what might this be worth? I believe it is a 1959. It is gold and has the suicide shift.
by: 75.67.133.117

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