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Vintage Lightweights

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FOR SALE:   Legnano...wow posted by: Warren on 11/28/2008 at 6:22:39 PM
Look at this little time capsule. The most detailed pics of any auction ever posted.

ebay item 280288088148
by: 24.215.86.83

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AGE / VALUE:   Huffy Concors posted by: Gralyn on 11/24/2008 at 9:04:42 AM
I was in the basement the other day - digging through some old wheel sets....I saw this Huffy Concors leaning against a stack of old wheels......I guess I knew it was there - and now I can hardly remember how or why I obtained this bike. Either it came in a package deal - or I had picked it up because it had nice pedals or something. Anyway, I hadn't paid it much attention.....but I looked at it and was surprised to see that it had forged dropouts. It has brazed-on cable routing along the top tube for the rear brake cable.....on the underside of the down tube - it has tandem braze-ons for routing derailler cables. It has 1/2 chrome front fork, Dia-Compe alloy brakes, I had previously removed the crank set - so I don't remember what it had (maybe that's what I had picked it up for - maybe it had a nice crank set?) Nothing else special about it that I saw. I was just surprised to see forged dropouts on a Huffy.

I may eventually build it up as a single speed fixie.

Anyone know anything about these particular Huffy's? I doubt the frame is ChroMo - probably just high tensile steel - as the frame sticker indicates: "fully lugged frame"
by: 74.235.34.126

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           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Huffy Concors posted by Carl on 11/26/2008 at 9:43:15 AM
Was Huffy an Olympic sponsor at one time in the 1980s?
by: 71.5.73.58

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Huffy Concors posted by Joe on 12/11/2008 at 12:17:22 AM
There were some Huffy bikes built by Carlton in the 60's and then Raleigh US was part of the Huffy group in the early to mid 80's.
Got any pics?
by: 71.125.154.168




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AGE / VALUE:   Cottered Crank Question posted by: Gralyn on 11/23/2008 at 4:05:33 PM
I have an old AMF Hercules I'm working on. I'm trying to make it a fixed gear single speed......so, I am using a different crank set. The original crank set was the 1/2 step crank - where the smaller chain ring is only slightly smaller than the larger one....and - it is riveted in place - so it wouldn't be an easy removal - if I wanted to keep the original crank set on it. I thought I might go with a square tapered cotterless crank - but, I ran into the problem that the bottom bracket spindles I have are not wide enough - resulting in the cup screwing in all the way - and not having a way to use the lock ring. I tried all different cups - but nothing I had would work. So, I decided to just put the original bottom bracket in. Then I tried several cranks - but nothing seemed to work very well - they came in too close, or the crank arm was too thick at the spindle - and it would rub against the cup. I ended up with a "solida" (I think that's what it is) crank with a 40-tooth chain ring - 3-bolt pattern. It fit and seems it will work just fine. However, I could not find the other crank arm! I looked everywhere - but no luck. I found another that looked similar....I actually found several that might work. But, I ran into a problem. When you install the cotter pins - they need to be installed in opposite directions - so that the crank arms will be 180 degrees apart......if you install them in the same direction - the cranks will be offset. But here's the problem: each crank arm has the hole for the cotter pin.....one end of the hole is larger diameter and the other is smaller diameter. But on the ones I have - they are on the same side as the crank/chainring I'm using.

Were these old cottered cranks made differently? Like say, maybe the French ones were made for the cotter pins to go in one way and the British ones were made for the pins to go in the opposite way? Or Italian, or whatever....

If you can get a cotter pin to go in and install - even though it's not in the "correct" direction as intended.....if it will go in and bolt on at the threaded end - will it work? will it be OK?
by: 74.235.75.125

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           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cottered Crank Question posted by David on 11/26/2008 at 6:06:34 AM
I've never noticed English cranks having diff sized holes for the cotters; they'll go in either way. I've often reversed them so the smooth side (not the nut) "engages" my cuffs. And you'll find them installed both directions on Raleighs. Most cotters are cylindrical, with a wedge carved on one side. I guess there's no reason they couldn't be made conical, but I don't see why they would be better and worth the much-greater production cost. Are you sure the holes are different sizes? Maybe some French or Italian ones differ in this way.
by: 216.15.114.27

           RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cottered Crank Question posted by Gralyn on 12/1/2008 at 6:55:55 PM
I must have some odd French or Italian cranks. I took one crank and installed it.....then on the other side - I attempted to insert the pin in the opposite direction from the other one (so they the cranks will align 180 deg. apart)....but the pin would not go in the hole. I could put it in from the other direction - because the hole was larger.....but if I put it in that way - the cranks are not 180 degrees apart.....
anyway, I came up with something that worked. I think it was mismatched crank arms and different size pins - but it worked.
by: 74.235.34.79

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cottered Crank Question posted by Joe on 12/10/2008 at 1:09:55 AM
The Solida cranks are French, I've seen them on Gitane as original equipment. The odd arm could be either Nervex, Solida, or old Peugeot, which uses a smaller cotter.
Those Solida cranks were pretty plentiful in the day but it was common to stock only the drive side as it was the most likely to fail. I had picked up a basket of right side cranks a few years back from a local shop, there were about 30 right sides and no lefts.

To make a normal bottom bracket work, you'll most likely need to find a 5 series crank axle. I usually look for bmx style single cranks when doing a fixed speed or geared hub conversion.
by: 71.125.154.168




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WANTED:   Looking for campy cable guide posted by: Bruce on 11/23/2008 at 4:08:09 PM
I have an older Trek (79) frame that I had the shop install a 10spd double with bar end shifters. They installed a cable guide (Problem Solvers 38.1)which works fine, however it is black plastic and I was hoping to get something a little classier, I heard that Campy used to make a nice one but quit making them. Does anybody have any information where I could get this part? Thank you in advance for any help.
by: 76.183.248.121

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           RE:WANTED:   Looking for campy cable guide posted by Warren on 11/23/2008 at 5:04:23 PM
You didn't say which bar end shifters you're using but I'd just use this Suntour stop. Cheap and well made.
http://tinyurl.com/5c395p
by: 24.215.86.150

           RE:RE:WANTED:   Looking for campy cable guide posted by Bruce on 11/25/2008 at 6:27:20 AM
Warren,

Thanks for the lead, it certainly looks nicer than the existing one.
by: 76.183.248.121

           RE:WANTED:   Looking for campy cable guide posted by David on 11/26/2008 at 6:08:08 AM
The Campy ones turn up on Ebay from time to time.
by: 216.15.114.27




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MISC:   Weinmann Brake Pad Holders posted by: Mike on 11/22/2008 at 8:42:16 AM
Hi,

I've got a nice Allegro (531 frame) that has Weinmann 500 sidepulls. The pads are shot (these have 7 oblong dots on them). Anyone know if the Kool Stop standard Campy shape pad would fit these holders before I spend the 20 or so bucks. I found the 7 dot pads on the auction site, but they weren't that good when new. Thanks in advance.

Mike
by: 74.215.199.40

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           RE:MISC:   Weinmann Brake Pad Holders posted by Warren on 11/23/2008 at 5:57:17 AM
Weinmann and Campag are different...keep you eye out for the Mathauser replacement pads as well. They are marked with a W.
by: 24.215.86.150

           RE:MISC:   Weinmann Brake Pad Holders posted by Mike on 11/23/2008 at 8:16:06 AM
thanks for the info.

Mike
by: 74.215.199.40




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AGE / VALUE:   what year is it posted by: HOWARD KRULL on 11/21/2008 at 1:25:40 PM
SN#
9
A5388
1
by: 216.243.165.109

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           RE:AGE / VALUE:   what year is it posted by Warren on 11/21/2008 at 7:22:25 PM
Howard....buddy. Could you be a little less cryptic? Maybe a description, picture, colour even? Maybe if I was Dustin Hoffman in Rainman..."SN# 9A53881...Pinarello Montello, Columbus SLX, Ferrari red, 1985, all super record,"

But I'm not. But here's the bike....http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/a/a4/Pinarello_Montello_SLX.JPG

Sweet even if it has Dura Ace.
by: 24.215.86.150

           RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   what year is it posted by HOWARD krull on 11/22/2008 at 6:13:14 PM
IT HAS A SCHWINN HEAD BADGE ALL JOINTS ARE BRAZED IT HAD A 35 STAMPED ABOVE HEAD BADGE 26' WHELLS ALL STAMPING DONT LOOK FACTORY SINGLE SPEED BENDIX TYPE BRAKE IT HAS THREADED SLOTS ON REAR OF FRAME FOR CHAIN TENSION BOLTS TO GO FAT TIRES SKIP TOOTH FRONT AND REAR SPROCKETS CHROME FENDERS AND CHAIN GUARD THANKS FOF THE REPLY WARREN H.K.
by: 216.243.165.175

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   what year is it posted by Patrick on 11/28/2008 at 6:36:46 AM
Hi Howard, I would take a pic. of it and post it on the Schwinn Site "Collectors Forum" Someone there will tell you everything about it.Patrick
by: 69.14.138.54

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   what year is it posted by Patrick on 11/28/2008 at 6:39:39 AM
Looks like spam,the e-mail doesn't exist.
by: 69.14.138.54




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MISC:   can't figure year or model? posted by: john on 11/20/2008 at 10:07:59 AM
i have 2 1960ish bicycles one i know is a Schwnn but there are no numbers underneath or any title/stickers anywhere.its blue and has bannana seat with an interesting way the chain goes into the rear hub which somehow shifts it, The other bike is just a frame with handlebars but alls it says is power King on the front emblem area. i've sold other vintage bikes so i'm not a vovice but this has me stumped! please help i'd love to restore theese bikes oh and on other thing the schwinn has 5 red looking lights coming out the back above the rear tire.
by: 4.238.244.101

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           RE:MISC:   can't figure year or model? posted by David on 11/21/2008 at 6:29:18 AM
Try the Schwinn web site collectors forum
by: 216.15.114.27




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MISC:   OldRoads Update posted by: Vin - Menotomy Vintage Bicycles on 11/20/2008 at 9:10:14 AM
We've made some changes and additions to OldRoads.
Please have a look by clicking on "About" and then "Whats New" at the top of this page.


by: 71.184.242.97


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AGE / VALUE:   What year model is it posted by: Adam Weaver on 11/18/2008 at 6:06:32 AM
I have a Schwinn Surburban Ser# HM54996
I don't see that on the serial number list on the website.
Can someone tell me the year of manufacture?
Adam, the freindydutchman
by: 75.197.246.55

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           RE:AGE / VALUE:   What year model is it posted by Patrick on 11/18/2008 at 6:34:06 AM
Look again,it shows the letter M for 1976.The letter A would be for 1965, ect. The first letter stands for the month. A for January, ect. Your letter H stands for August. They skipped the letters I and O because they could be confused with the numbers 1 and 0
by: 198.208.159.20




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MISC:   Resoration help needed posted by: Uni on 11/16/2008 at 9:43:23 PM
I picked up a 1973 Raleigh Super Course this evening from CL. It has gorgeous ornate lug work on the head tube and frame. It has the chrome fork ends and chrome chain stay ends, Brooks B17/B15 saddle with holes for lacing. It also has a nice long wheelbase of about 40.5 inches. Unfortunately, it's only in fair condition cosmetically. It was not stored well. There is rust on the chrome. I'm concerned about how to remove the rust from the half chrome fork and chain stays without damaging the fairly good paint. I have first hand experience that steel wool and paint don't get along well. I'm thinking maybe I can tape the painted area where it meets the chromed area before I start scrubbing with the steel wool. I'm hoping someone has a better Idea on how to protect the painted frame area while removing rust from the adjoining chromed area. Has anyone done this successfully? There must be a better way. I want it to look as close as possible to this 1970 brown SC:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/retroraleighs/super-course.html

Thanks in advance,
Uni
by: 68.40.229.250

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           RE:MISC:   Resoration help needed posted by Uni on 11/16/2008 at 10:24:18 PM
I also need information on how to remove those bike shop peel and stick labels from the frame and a 1972 peel and stick bicycle license.
Thanks again,
UnI
by: 68.40.229.250

           RE:MISC:   Resoration help needed posted by Drew on 11/17/2008 at 6:22:54 PM
I've always had good luck with 0000 steel wool and oil...the oil realy helps cut through the light rust. Taping the paint is fine,but i've never damaged paint with this method. Pitting is anoter story, it usually means the chrome is shot. I have a 1970 International with pitted forks - all I could do was use some 'chrome paint' to touch them up and protect them from moisture. My 1971 super course cleaned up very well with steel wool & oil.

Great bikes, those old Raleighs !
by: 72.93.18.251

           RE:MISC:   Resoration help needed posted by David on 11/19/2008 at 5:34:23 AM
Sticky labels come off easily with heat. I use a heat gun for paint stripping, but a hair dryer should work, too, though slower. They'll soften up and you can scrape them off with something soft, like a popsicle stick. Use Goo Gone on the sticky residue.
by: 216.15.114.27

           RE:MISC:   Resoration help needed posted by Denny Crane on 11/26/2008 at 6:02:49 PM
I bought a used 10-speed in 1978, which had been stripped of labels and painted an ugly blue, to deter theft (ridden to beach a lot). It has chrome caps to the fork, and someone suggested it might be a Raleigh. Can you shed light on this? Thanks.


by: 66.215.19.58


           RE:MISC:   Resoration help needed posted by Matt on 12/1/2008 at 11:09:40 PM
Denny, that blue bike you have there looks like it may be french.
by: 68.143.35.227




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MISC:   i dont know what my frames are posted by: theresa on 11/16/2008 at 9:12:28 PM
the red frame is a 1965 schwinn ? serial#ma65108 the other is a 1958 schwinn ? serial #8l06191 could someone tell me what these are?
by: 98.115.6.71

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           RE:MISC:   i dont know what my frames are posted by David on 11/19/2008 at 5:35:35 AM
A picture would be worth a thousand words.
by: 216.15.114.27




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AGE / VALUE:   1975 Zeus Cyclocross posted by: MC on 11/11/2008 at 5:39:50 PM
I was wondering if someone could provide some information on my Zeus. I am not the original owner, but the original owner purchased it new in 1975. It is like other Zeus models from that year, but the thing that makes this rather unique is that it has a cyclocross set up. I thought is could have been a touring model but it is definitely not touring geometry. Add to that the absence of the triple ring front. Components are all Campag but the front crank is a single sprocket set up which makes it a 5 speed bike. The brakes are long reach Mafac cantilevers, the bar & stem is Cinelli and the rims are Mavic. It is in pristine condition with only a couple of decal chips.

I am somewhat familiar with Zeus offerings from this era, but have never heard of anything like this. Obviously, I cannot find anything about these across the internet.

by: 76.30.210.15

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           RE:AGE / VALUE:   1975 Zeus Cyclocross posted by Davjd on 11/12/2008 at 8:06:39 PM
Try the email list at Classic Rendezvous dot com
by: 216.15.114.27




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AGE / VALUE:   1995 Austro-Daimler 10 Speed Olympian Racing Bike posted by: Uni on 11/11/2008 at 1:17:38 PM
Please let me know the original sales price and the approximate current value if in good to excellent condition.
Thanks,
Uni
by: 68.40.229.250

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AGE / VALUE:   Diamant road bike (Belgium) posted by: Todd on 11/11/2008 at 12:42:26 PM
I went to check out a vintage Diamant road bike that I found through craigslist today, does anyone know anything about them? I can't seem to dig up much dirt, but from what I've found there was a Belgian Diamant and a German Diamant (unrelated), the owner of the bike says it's the Belgian. It has some nice lugwork, chrome fork, blue/white fade paintjob, simplex derailleur, shimano crank, molodo brakes. Small ring is 42t. It looks pretty high end for its time. If I recall correctly it also had a chrome drive-side chainstay. It's very light, probably around 17 lbs or so. I couldn't find a serial number anywhere on it (just a "50" stamped on the bottom of the BB shell). There is a good deal of rust, especially on the chrome. The kid said he would accept between 150 and 200 for it, I was going to offer him 100 hoping to meet him at 125. Does anyone know much about these bikes or what they're worth?
by: 128.118.148.230

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MISC:Help me choose a bike please posted by: Uni on 11/11/2008 at 6:57:37 AM
Will the 1982 Schwinn Voyager 11.8 and the 1977 Raleigh Super Course make very good loaded touring, and commuter bikes in their stock configuration? Please explain why or why not? Thanks in advance for your help.
by: 68.40.229.250

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           RE:MISC:Help me choose a bike please posted by Warren on 11/11/2008 at 9:10:53 AM
Neither would be a great loaded tourer because they aren't designed to be one...extra strength/extra braze-ons/extra clearance/extra gearing etc.

Most bikes make fine commuters. Put fenders, lights and a rack on them...presto.


by: 24.215.86.150

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