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Vintage Lightweights

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AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn VS. Raleigh Robin Hood Bike posted by: Pete on 10/2/2007 at 5:24:48 PM
I have been trying to do research on an old Schwinn Robin Hood three speed men's bike. From what I can gather from this and other message boards, both Raleigh and Schwinn made this bike? If so, are either collectible? Which is better or more desired by a collector? Or are they not very desired at all?
by: 24.196.195.104

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           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Schwinn VS. Raleigh Robin Hood Bike posted by David on 10/3/2007 at 8:07:56 AM
I've never heard of a "Schwinn" Robin Hood, which doesn't mean they never made a bike called that. Raleigh made the "B" grade Robin Hood bike. They're generally Sports-type 3-speeds with the lower quality wire fender stays and bolted (not brazed)-on mounts for the chain guard and things like that. Identical to most Hercules, Phillips, Triumph, etc. that were made by Raleigh. Unless you have one that's nearly perfect, it's of little interest to collectors. Ride it.
by: 216.15.114.27

           RE:AGE / VALUE: Schwinn VS. Raleigh Robin Hood Bike posted by pete on 10/3/2007 at 11:17:55 AM
Thanks! The bike I have has a Schwinn logo seat on it so I assumed it was a Schwinn.
by: 24.196.195.104

           RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Schwinn VS. Raleigh Robin Hood Bike posted by Chris on 10/5/2007 at 6:36:44 AM
Somebody put a Schwinn seat on the English Raleigh built bike. Please remove the seat and fit a proper Brooks leather seat on it.
by: 66.51.146.158




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AGE / VALUE:   Denton posted by: Des on 10/2/2007 at 10:17:00 AM
I have a Denton 531 double butted frame and fork racing bike dated 1969. It"s made by Denton of Newcastle upon tyne, England (227/229 westgate road). A Denton bike shop still exists in Newcastle and I have called them to try to find out any information but they no nothing of their own history. Can anyone help with any info on this frame builder?
by: 91.105.166.11

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WANTED:   New Schwinn Peloton Pro/LTD 2007 model WTB posted by: Dan on 10/1/2007 at 11:28:42 PM
I was curious if any Posters here might run or own a bike shop selling the Schwinn line. I'm looking for a 2007 Schwinn Pro LTD, this would be the top model. Will consider the Ultegra equiped Peloton if the Dura ace model LTD is not available. Frame size needed Medium, Thanks, Dan
by: 74.36.56.235

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MISC:   Mercier 531 trade for Raleigh? posted by: Geoff Rogers on 10/1/2007 at 9:11:23 AM
I have a seventies chartreuse Mercier which I would like to trade for something British which will accept 27" wheels and fenders. I think this frame originally had 700s, although I am currently running 27" Super Champions with Campy high flange hubs. There isn't room for fenders, and since I am really a British bike guy, I would like to trade it for a Raleigh with 531 tubing or something else British. The Mercier is not too bad, a proper light 531 frame with chrome Simplex dropouts, Prestige rear derailleur, steel/ alloy Campy front derailleur and levers, cranks and bars from a Peugeot, nothing special there. Pedals are alloy, I forget what exactly. It has sidepull Dia-Compe brakes, but I have a set of Mafacs that are probably more correct. Brooks B15 in almost new condition. The paint is pretty nice, if you like seventies chartreuse, and decals are okay although the 531 decals are almost gone. It is lively and rides great. Anybody want to trade? I would trade just the frame for a Raleigh 531 frame. And what's it worth, in case I can't find a trade?
Geoff Rogers
Shutesbury, Massachusetts
by: 216.153.152.113

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           RE:MISC:   Mercier 531 trade for Raleigh? posted by Wayne Kindle on 10/1/2007 at 8:53:59 PM
Hello Geoff, What size is the frame of this Mercier measured from the center of the crank to the top of the seatpost tube? What would you want for this frame and fork and headset? Wayne Kindle 512-219-3121wk 8-5
by: 70.244.207.56




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AGE / VALUE:   Seeking Help With Info. On This Bike posted by: Suzie on 9/28/2007 at 9:00:23 PM
I recently purchased this bike at the Salvatian Army because it looked neat and I thought it'd be easy to find info about. All I was able to get, however, is that Sears bikes were made under two different mens names depending on the year made...since I don't know the time period it's from it's been hard getting any further details.

So, anyone who can help's time regarding this is greatly appreciated!

Suzie
SWadeK48@Yahoo.com


by: 68.30.219.187


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           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Seeking Help With Info. On This Bike posted by Suzie on 9/28/2007 at 9:14:54 PM
Addiitonal pics include...
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1440/1456531472_7bdba3f17a.jpg?v=0

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1240/1456531468_9d5f102957.jpg?v=0


by: 68.30.219.187


           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Seeking Help With Info. On This Bike posted by David on 9/30/2007 at 5:08:10 AM
It has typical low-end American-built details, so it's not a Steyr-Daimler-Puch-built Austrian one.
by: 216.15.114.27

           RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Seeking Help With Info. On This Bike posted by Suzie on 9/30/2007 at 7:08:47 PM
I don't understand why it doesn't have a name anywhere other than "lightweight" and "sears roebuck" sticker. Shouldn't it have a model/make name somewhere?? I got it to ride and think it'd be neat to know what time-frame it's from if anyone can help.

Thanks!
by: 70.8.180.22




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AGE / VALUE:   Selbach posted by: Des on 9/28/2007 at 9:34:23 AM
I have recently saved a Selbach bike from skip death and wondered if anyone could date it. Its frame number is 0577468 it is very light for its age. All the parts on the bike were post war, late 40s early 50s. It's called a Royal Model Deluxe I think. It has d section front forks and a strange headset but not timken. Picture can be found here..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/smallwheelsociety/1408377058/
I think that it maybe an early model, 20s? but don't know . Help!
by: 91.105.146.225

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           RE:AGE / VALUE: Selbach posted by Warren on 9/28/2007 at 5:01:17 PM
From a skip? Sometimes I feel ill. Very respectable maker, original finish, Chaterlea components, the headset is a typical english headclip, the bottom bracket may be a problem because Chaterlea had their own oversize cups. They do come up on ebay now and then. Selbach made nice track frames I believe.

You'd likely get hundreds for the frame and fork alone. Congratulations!
by: 24.224.141.224

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   Selbach posted by Des on 9/29/2007 at 1:41:40 AM
I do have the bottom bracket, which is chater-lea and all the other parts.
GB Hiduminium calipars and levers.
Haden large flange front hub.
Brooks b15.
Sturmey three speed on back.
Maes handlebars
BSA crank.


by: 91.105.151.181

           RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Selbach posted by Warren on 9/29/2007 at 7:11:26 AM
There's a 1926 Selbach tourer on ebay number 130157252478

Contact the seller Hilary Stone and ask him about dating the frame. He's very knowledgeable.
by: 24.224.141.224




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AGE / VALUE:   can anyone help? posted by: Maggie Wilson on 9/27/2007 at 1:38:29 PM
Hi There,

I have just purchased a flying scot bike with the serial number: 59 3064 022 E36 can anyone give me the year please?

Thanks
by: 195.137.21.94

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           RE:AGE / VALUE: can anyone help? posted by Warren on 9/27/2007 at 4:12:51 PM
A very nice bike but it appears that Bob Reids FS website is no longer up. He's the expert. Try googling his name and Flying Scott and check the cached pages.
by: 24.224.141.224




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WANTED:   Campy Gum Rubber Hoods posted by: Bob on 9/27/2007 at 8:04:57 AM
I'm looking for a new pair of Campy gum rubber brake hoods. Anyone know of a source? Thanks!
by: 66.248.94.79

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           RE:WANTED: Campy Gum Rubber Hoods posted by Ted on 9/27/2007 at 9:04:31 PM
Try sd bicycle garage. Shield logo. Ted
by: 24.4.142.229

           RE:WANTED: Campy Gum Rubber Hoods posted by Reub on 1/3/2008 at 5:21:31 AM
Hi, you can get them from this shop - he's very helpful http://www.universalcyclecentre.co.uk/Genstock.htm
by: 86.142.203.35




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AGE / VALUE:   1981 Miyata 10 spd posted by: terry leighton on 9/26/2007 at 11:46:05 AM
I have a 1981 Miyata 10 speed but have know idea how to find out what model it is or what its worth. Anyone familiar with them? All i have is the serial number and its a 21" frame with suntour gears, dia-compe brakes and the badge says MIYATA hand built Japan.
by: 71.222.40.198

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           RE:AGE / VALUE: 1981 Miyata 10 spd posted by Warren on 9/26/2007 at 8:09:01 PM
Read the Mercier post 2 below...same deal. Miyate made great bikes and modest ones as well.
by: 24.224.141.224

           RE:AGE / VALUE:   1981 Miyata 10 spd posted by T-Mar on 9/28/2007 at 3:36:36 PM
The serial number will only provide the year, not the model. However, if you post a pic along with the serial number, I should be able to identify it. The alternative is to list the make and models of the major components. I may also be able to provide the original price or at least a ballpark figure.

by: 66.78.120.154




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AGE / VALUE:   K. Sommerhalder" bike - Info? posted by: Scozzese on 9/26/2007 at 6:16:30 AM
I recently acquired a bike identified as a "K. Sommerhalder". I was informed that after winning the Tour de Suisse, Herr Sommerhalder made these bikes. However, I have researched the Tour de Suisse, and find no "K. Sommerhalder" winner. (Apparently, there have been numerous Sommerhalder contestants, so there is hope).

Anyway, the bike is rather interesting. It is cherry red, with "K. Sommerhalder" decals in white. Columbus tubing and fork, with the Columbus dove embedded in the seat stay and fork crown. There is an interesting mix of components. The shifters, derailleurs and crankset are Shimano 600 (arabesque), but the headseat and seatpost are Gipiemme. Even more interesting - the hubs are Dura-Ace, with lubrication holes and covers. The rims are Nisi tubulars. The dropouts are Campy - drilled. The wheelbase (96cm) is pretty short for this 56cm bike, which makes it feel very lively and responsive. All told, including Gipiemme pedals, toe clips, and Silca pump, the bike weighs in below 21 lbs.

Obviously, I am interested in any information that anyone can provide on this one. I can provide pictures if desired.

Thanks in advance.
by: 192.91.172.42

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AGE / VALUE:   Mecier posted by: Edmo on 9/25/2007 at 1:49:44 PM
I have 1971 Special Pro Mercier w/ 22" frame & 27" wheels. Was very light wieght back in the day.

Any ideas what this would go for on open market. I am orginal owner.
by: 71.174.71.248

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           RE:AGE / VALUE: Mecier posted by Warren on 9/25/2007 at 4:14:15 PM
Complete details and usually pics are also needed to make a reasonable guess at value for most bikes.
by: 24.224.141.224

           RE:AGE / VALUE: Mecier posted by Ed on 9/25/2007 at 8:42:39 PM
I have restored a Motobicane Mirage. The French light weight bicycles are super commuter bicycles because they have wide tire clearances and can handle 700 x 35 at least in tires. I would think that it would be worth at minimum 100.00 if it is a better quality frame. Of course it would need a 700 x 19 rims for the wide tires. Why sell, just add some newer parts! Enjoy! Ed
by: 69.207.93.153

           Mecier posted by John E. on 9/27/2007 at 10:25:48 AM
I concur with Ed regarding the suitability of these frame for commuting (my commuter is a 1970 Peugeot UO-8 with aluminum rims, aluminum crankset, and SunTour barcons), but would make the same statement about English, Austrian, Japanese, etc. bikes of the same era. These other nationalities of bikes have the advantage of using mostly standard/ISO parts, whereas French bikes were "hard" metric except for an occasional English pedal or freewheel thread for U.S. export.
by: 66.185.168.82

           RE:AGE / VALUE:���Mecier posted by Ed on 9/29/2007 at 3:57:02 PM
Yes, I was lucky finding parts so far My frame is threaded Swiss on the bottom bracket. The fixed cup is Left hand thread. I found the seatpost to be 25.4. I think the new cassette type back hubs to be a big advantage for the old bicycles. Ed
by: 69.207.93.153




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MISC:   Gum Hood REMOVAL... posted by: Fred A. on 9/22/2007 at 8:22:14 AM
Hi all

I just picked up an 80's Fuji Royale, all original, right down to the gum hoods that look they were in Terminator 3 after Skynet melted everything. Any idea how to remove this gooey mess? It sticks to everything it comes in contact with, including my hands. I've even tried drowning them in WD-40 but to no avail.

Anyone out there have a solution?

Thanks in advance!
Fred A.
by: 69.123.13.128

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           RE:MISC:   Gum Hood REMOVAL... posted by Gralyn on 9/23/2007 at 6:57:56 AM
The right solvent would probably clean it right off.....I just don't know what solvent will do the job. I have at least 2 or 3 sets of levers that had melted down gum hoods. I got the bulk of the hoods off - the they have the sticky, gooey remnants - which I would like to completely remove - before putting new hoods on. I would have put these original brake levers back on the bikes they came off of - but because of the gum hood mess - I just put a different lever set on each one. They have just been sitting in a box - waiting until I get around to finding what will remove the gum mess.

I also have a bar and lever set - that came off a Motobecane - where the bars have a gum coating rather than bar tape. The gum, rubber molded on wrap integrates the brake hoods also. It looks good - but it is very sticky. So, I removed the bars and put a different bar and levers on it. I could take that set and put bar tape on top of the original gum stuff.....but I wish there was something that could be done so it wouldn't be so sticky and gooey.
by: 64.12.116.198

           RE:MISC:   Gum Hood REMOVAL... posted by David on 9/24/2007 at 5:15:15 AM
Have you tried paint thinner or (careful!) lacquer thinner?
by: 216.15.114.27

           RE:RE:MISC:   Gum Hood REMOVAL... posted by Fred A. on 9/24/2007 at 8:34:30 AM
Thanks for all the input. I'll give it all a try!!!!!
by: 67.106.158.34




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MISC:   freewheel removal posted by: Darryl on 9/20/2007 at 6:12:02 PM
How can I remove a freewheel from a hub that has had the spokes cut and rim removed? The hub is a Campy c-record, so I don't want to damage it. The freewheel is a 7-speed and I have the right removal tool but I can't get enough leverage without the rim and spokes attached. I have managed to remove all the cogs with chain whips and I am left with the freewheel body attached to the hub. I am not able to re-spoke the freewheel side flange because of the freewheel body. Any ideas????
by: 64.12.116.137

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           RE:MISC:   freewheel removal posted by David on 9/21/2007 at 6:39:32 AM
Look at

http://yarchive.net/bike/freewheel_removal_without_rim.html

Jobst Brandt (author of "The Bicycle Wheel") knows what he's talking about.
by: 216.15.114.27




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MISC:   Tokheim Speedisc 5 speed posted by: Joe Huld on 9/19/2007 at 11:03:01 AM
i just bought a 70 something Schwinn Super Sport that has been fitted with what appears to be a Tokheim Speedisc 5 speed transmission with a grip shifter. It is marked Tokheim Patent Pending. I have only found a couple of references to the Tokheim transmission and just one not too clear drawing of it in Whitt’s Bicycling Science. Do you know of any source for information on this transmission? The bike looks like it has not been used a lot and may have sat in a garage for most of the past 30 years so I want to service it before trying it out.

by: 204.145.129.190

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           RE:MISC: Tokheim Speedisc 5 speed posted by Ed on 9/19/2007 at 5:48:40 PM
Is this an internal gear?
by: 69.207.93.153

           RE:MISC:   Tokheim Speedisc 5 speed posted by T-Mar on 9/19/2007 at 6:15:39 PM
The Tokheim was a five speed, expanding sprocket. In was introduced in 1974 and lasted until about 1980. It was found almost exclusively on entry level bicycles. I believe I have an old article on it, if I can find it.
by: 66.78.126.199

           RE:RE:MISC:   Tokheim Speedisc 5 speed posted by Joe Huld on 9/20/2007 at 8:14:45 AM
I found passing references to it but nothing describing adjustment and operation.
by: 204.145.129.190

           RE:MISC:   Tokheim Speedisc 5 speed posted by jason on 9/21/2007 at 3:38:29 PM
according to the book "The New Complete book of bicycling" by Eugene A. Sloan,1974, and heavily edited by me...

tokhiem gearmaker, tokhiem corportation, Fort Wayne Indiana
Maintanance of the gearmaker
to compensate or take up slack in streched cables, shift unit into fifth gear, adjust cable until an index hole in the bracket plate is lined up with and index hole in an "interposer assembly" and retighten cable locknut. in the picture I have the interposer assembley looks like some sort of guard that wraps around the front of the sprocket assembly.

according to the picture I have, this index hole is under a slot in the outer housing, the one that the cable mount is hooked to.

it takes a 1/8 inch chain.

you can't remove the rear wheel without breaking the chain, but the book claims that you should be able to remove one side of the tire and patch the tube without dismounting the wheel. yay.

the book says that the gearmaker takes a wider than normal spacing between stays, and takes its own hub.

the point of the thing is apparently to keep the chainline strait in all gears, to avoid chain and sprocket wear. it claims that the chain will not get hung up inbetween gears, allows "under power" shifts, and allows you to downshift by pedaling backward while standing still. sounds neat.

I want one, but have never seen one, and if I did I would hang it on the garage wall and throw worn out campy stuff at it to relieve stress. I already do that with every positron I find. proves nothing, but its pretty pointless and therefore better than tv. but you should probably ride it and tell us about it. jason
by: 4.252.242.205

           RE:MISC:   Tokheim Speedisc 5 speed posted by David on 9/24/2007 at 5:13:06 AM
Ebay item # 190156005124 is either the bike under discussion or one just like it. There are a couple of pictures of the gear changer. Interesting and, it appears, unsuccessful idea. I wonder if it was the first attempt at such a mechanism; most current bike features can be found in the ancient Sears catalogs.
by: 216.15.114.27

           RE:MISC:   Tokheim Speedisc 5 speed posted by keith carter on 8/17/2008 at 4:39:46 PM
I have instruction manual for the tokheim model 505 bike transmission, also a few[new] of the transmissions. The manual gives assembly instrutions. keith
by: 70.106.197.161




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MISC:   successful removal of a frozen alloy handlbar stem posted by: Lenny on 9/17/2007 at 2:23:33 PM
I'd like to share my recent (and ultimately successful) experience with freeing a frozen handlebar stem.

The problem was the removal of an alloy handlebar stem (AVA) from a 1960 Schwinn Continental. I was able to raise the stem bolt and free the wedge, but was then unable to rotate the stem relative to the fork steerer tube, even after daily application of penetrating solvent for a week's time (to both the upper and lower stem/steerer tube access points). I quickly realized that I would damage the [surprisingly slender] fork blades if I attempted to use much leverage while attempting to rotate the stem and free it from the fork steerer tube.

My next step was to search the Oldroads archives. One post suggested clamping the fork crown in a wood vise with the fork still mounted on the rest of the frame. I attempted this (using some steel handlebars clamped in the stem for leverage), but was still not able to free the stem. I decided to pause the attempt and contemplate my options.

After remembering an Oldroads post that described how a stuck seatpost could removed with vertical hacksaw cuts administered from inside the seatpost, I decided on a surgical approach that would sacrifice the stem (but save the fork).

I completely removed the wedge bolt, then made a horizontal cut through the stem to completely remove the stem extension while leaving a two-inch "stub" of the stem exposed above the steerer tube. I was then able to unscrew the upper headset bearing assembly and remove the fork from the frame.

I then clamped the fork (at the crown) in vertical position in a wood vise. Using a round file, I enlarged the inside hollow area of the stem so that I could insert a hacksaw blade inside. I then cut a slot along the entire long axis of the stem, monitoring carefully to avoid any change in sound and feel of the sawing (the objective being to cut completely through the alloy wall of the stem but to avoid cutting into the surrounding steel fork steerer tube!)

After the cut was made, I used a large pipe wrench and attached it to the exposed stub of the stem. I positioned it so that when force was applied with the wrench, the stem would be slightly crushed into the space of the slot. After the deformation was accomplished, the stem immediately began to turn and I was able to ease the stem out of the steerer tube.

Hope this helps others who might be faced with removing badly-stuck handlebar stems (assuming you are willing to sacrifice the stem).

Regards,
Lenny
by: 216.99.65.64

  Replies:
           RE:MISC: successful removal of a frozen alloy handlbar stem posted by John E on 9/19/2007 at 3:27:32 PM
Thanks for posting, Lenny, and congratulations on owning one of the most collectible Schwinn bicycles ever made. I am glad you were able to salvage that fork!
by: 66.185.168.82

           RE:RE:MISC: successful removal of a frozen alloy handlbar stem posted by Lenny on 9/20/2007 at 9:16:30 AM
Hi John,

You're welcome...hope it helps others. I certainly have appreciated your long-time and always informative contributions to this great discussion group.

I most likely won't complete the overhaul of this bike until spring. It's in pretty good condition considering its age and has most of the original components (except for one replacement pedal, alloy handlebars in place of the original steel, and will of course, it will now feature a replacement stem). I'll post my impressions of its riding qualities when I get it all back together. It's quite a bit lighter in weight and contruction compared to Schwinn Continentals from the 1970s (the fork blades, fork steerer tube, and wheel rims are of much thinner steel contruction compared to later versions). The frame tubes may possibly be thinner or of narrow diameter as well, though I have not yet measured them against later versions (don't have any later Contis on hand at the moment).

My current favorite rider is a 1973 Schwinn Super Sport (Sunset Orange) that I recently rebuilt. It's a very comfortable ride and gets up hills just fine (if you're not in a hurry). I also really like the durability, bearing quality, and gleaming chrome beauty of its one-piece crank!

Regards, Lenny
by: 216.99.65.64

           RE:MISC:   successful removal of a frozen alloy handlbar stem posted by Bill in Pasadena on 10/9/2007 at 9:20:51 PM
Hey, I did that recently, too. Seems like September is the official "pie-cut your frozen stem" month.

I had the same problem with a Trek 770 frame that was just too nice to destroy. After exhaustive research on the web and trying every method recommended by Lennard Zinn (including saturating the whole darned thing with PB Blaster), I was left with no other option but sacrificing the stem (a Cinelli too, sob) and attempting the "pie cut" hacksaw blade method. I was aided by a neat little tool I had from Stanley that holds a single hacksaw blade like a straight-saw. It made the process a lot easier and saved me from a few blistered fingers.

Sure enough, some careful sawing, taking care not to cut the steerer tube, resulted in a 100% successful effort. The remains of the stem came out looking like they'd been salvaged from the Titanic. By the way, Jobst Brandt, legendary author of "The Bicycle Wheel" book recommends this as the only fail-proof method. Moral of the story: make sure your stems are well (and frequently) greased.
by: 24.205.65.234

           RE:MISC: successful removal of a frozen alloy handlbar stem posted by Noel Darlow on 1/10/2008 at 1:18:29 PM
I think I might have found another way to do it. On my own bike, the stem was installed as far as down it would go. This meant that, when I unscrew the headset nuts, they quickly start butting up against the stem overhang. Unscrew some more and they start pushing the stem out millimetre by millimetre...

The top nut will eventually come off the thread so turn your attention to the lower one. This will butt up against the top nut - unscrew some more and you'll push the stem out another couple of cm or so until the lower nut too reaches the top of the thread.

It takes quite a bit of force to keep things moving. You'll probably need a longish headset spanner with a decent bit of leverage. I managed to snap a cheaper tool so went out and bought a good one.

Before you do this, it might be a good idea to unscrew the the quill bolt 6-8 turns or so and then whack it (carefully!) with a hammer to knock the quill end down, in case it's stuck.

I think I managed to pull the stem half an inch or an inch in this way before I ran out of thread. Oddly enough it still wouldn't come free by twisting the bars. Jammed tight as ever. I'd expected the layer of corrosion to give way in a sudden "snap!" after which the stem would once again be pliable but it looks like it's going to fight every inch of the way.

At this point I could just grease my bearings - that's all I really wanted to do - screw everything back down, and ride off with a slightly higher stem. If you're in the same boat be careful: if the stem tapers or is shaped it could be damaged by the headset bolt being forced up into the metal and possibly this could lead to a stress fracture later. I once had a set of bars break on me and it wasn't pretty. Think you can ride with one hand? I thought so too.

If you really have to remove the stem it should in principle be possible just to screw it out bit by bit but you'd need to figure out some way to keep packing spacers in. In theory it would go like this:

1. Unscrew the lower headset nut up until it's at the end of thread. The stem should have been pushed out a little bit.
2. Screw the nut back down again.
3. Insert a spacer under the stem so that, when you unscrew the headset nut again, it pushes the stem out another little bit.
4. Repeat.

Washers or spare headset bolts might be used as spacers. Obviously you can't get them onto the fork with the stem in the way but maybe you could try cutting them in half and then break out the superglue, gluing each to the one above. Or something. They'd have to be attached firmly enough not to pop out once the headset nut starts winding back up, piling on the pressure. Perhaps some kind of clamp would do it?

As I say, I haven't getting the stem out completely in this way but I think it could work and it might be a whole lot easier than drilling/cutting out the stem.
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