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Vintage Mountain Bikes

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WANTED:   Salsa / Interloc stems posted by: EVAN on 3/17/2001 at 9:31:18 PM
I'm looking for an old quill Salsa or Interloc MTB stem. Please email if you have one to sell. Thanks!

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MISC:   RESPRAY TITANIUM FRAMES posted by: Ed Raulins on 3/14/2001 at 3:07:04 PM
I am contemplating respraying my titanium frame road bike,
and was wondering whether there were any hidden dangers in stripping the old paint & powdercoating a new finish.
Appreciate any comments.

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           RE:MISC:   RESPRAY TITANIUM FRAMES posted by Oscar on 3/26/2001 at 3:01:35 PM
Titanium does not corrode the way aluminum or steel do. That's way you see some lightspeeds in their bare brushed metal finish. As far as I know, it accepts primer and paint just as well, and should not be a problem with stripping and repainting. Red looks best on most bikes.

           RE:MISC:   RESPRAY TITANIUM FRAMES posted by JimW. on 5/16/2001 at 8:29:08 PM
Or, you could check out:
http://www.titaniumarts.com/content/bikeart.html
Leni Fried does incredibly artistic anodized finishes on
titanium bike frames. Titanium is good looking; why powder
coat it so that it looks like a Toys R Us crapcycle. Nothing
against powder coating, it has its place, especially on a steel
frame. Titanium doesn't need it.




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WANTED:   Flat crown Ritchey fork for MB-1 posted by: Liz on 3/12/2001 at 11:36:17 AM
Looking for the original flat crown fork to build up my 18" NOS MB-1 frame. E-mail if you have one.

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MISC:   Info about early Stumpjumper & Gitane posted by: Tim Welsh on 3/9/2001 at 1:27:22 PM
Two truly old school mtn bikes I have: First is a Stumpjumper - dark blue with the Tomasinni brake levers, & BMX style stem & bars, & double fork crown. It's all original I think - it only has a 5-speed cog. Does anyone know how to date one of these - I know its a very early one, but how early? Also I came across most of an early 80's Gitane mountain bike. It is a light frame and also has a double fork crown, but only a double crank (components are all missing). I appreciate any info about either bike.

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           Stumpjumper posted by John E on 3/13/2001 at 9:50:39 AM
Specialized introduced the Stumpjumper in 1982 [Berto, "The Birt of Dirt," p. 15, 53], and, with that 5-cog cluster, I suspect yours is from the early 1980s. If you post the serial number, someone may be able to decode it for you.

I think the Gitane is more likely mid-80s, as the Europeans were a bit slow to get into the mountain biking act. If the bottom bracket is English-threaded, the frame was produced in the Orient (probably Japan, possibly Taiwan), rather than in France. What brand of cranks does the Gitane have?




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FOR SALE:   1983 Ross Mt. Washington Mtn Bike posted by: Dan on 2/28/2001 at 7:33:29 PM
I was wondering if this was of any interest to anyone. Definitely an "old school" mtn bike. And it is in pretty good shape. I have used it pretty much constantly since I was 11 years old. Now that I'm approaching 30, its time to get another one. But I figured somebody out there might want it. Email me and let me know.
Thanks, Dan

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           RE:FOR SALE:   1983 Ross Mt. Washington Mtn Bike posted by Dan on 2/28/2001 at 7:40:08 PM
My email is dibiased@yahoo.com




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MISC:   Bridgestone XO posted by: John La Fargue on 2/27/2001 at 10:33:29 AM
One more question. What was the largest size frame Bridgestone made in XO's and MB's.

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           RE:MISC:   Bridgestone XO posted by mike on 3/4/2001 at 11:27:46 AM
Can't speak for other years, but I have a 1983 MB2 that is 21.5" c/t. That was as big as they came back then.

Mike




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MISC:   Ritchey Timber Comp posted by: John LaFargue on 2/27/2001 at 1:07:51 AM
Anybody have info on Timber Comps? I was told by Ritchey it was an early eighties line. What were/are they worth?

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FOR SALE:   NIGHT RIDING posted by: JOEL on 2/23/2001 at 9:19:02 AM
This is kind of 'new school' I guess but I was wondering if anyone else out there is into night riding. What a blast. I use the cheapest light that Performance makes (single beam, helmet mount) and it's good for about 2 hours. (spare batteries and parts to build your own are avalable at any electronics shop cheap). Lately I've been riding without it when the moon is bright. It is a good way to improve technical skills. Last week, an owl flew along the trail about 5 feet ahead of me. I could feel the wind off his wings. cool...

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           Night Rider posted by Brasil on 2/23/2001 at 12:11:48 PM
I love riding at night. Been doing so since we were kids, sometimes on the road, sometimes off. There's something enchanting about how quiet it is, the light on the trail or road, the sound of your tires and chain working away. I love it, no cars no people...

           Watch Out! posted by Ray on 2/26/2001 at 8:59:16 AM
Watch out when night riding. I was going down a trail about 2 years ago alone, at night with a light and still did not see the 1 foot high stump in the road because of fall coverage and it blended in so well with the background. Long story short, I did an endo and was happy not to break any bones because it would have been a while till someone found me. I was banged up pretty well and my bike wheel was not to great but I manged to make it back home. The ride home seemed a lot longer than it took me to get there in the first place.

           RE:Watch Out! posted by JOEL on 3/1/2001 at 1:17:27 PM
Yep...I did a similar crash using a borrowed Nightrider mounted on the handlebar (instead of the helmet where it belongs). I find that a rider behind me will cast shadows and throw off my depth perception too. But generally, I can see the trail really well at night, and the light beam fources me to focus on a small area in front of the bike where I SHOULD be looking.

           RE:FOR SALE:   NIGHT RIDING posted by Eric on 4/16/2001 at 8:16:20 AM
Night riding rocks! You definitely need both helmet and handlebar lights to do it though. Two different shadow andgles and beam patterns are more important than anyone realizes until they get both lights. I usually don't have time to ride during the day from the end of september until about the end of april and hae decided that 2 lights on the bars and 2 lights on my head are critical. Each should have a low wattage narrow beam to conserve battery power when you're riding slower, and a high wide and a high narrow for cruising or techy stuff. Easy to operate switches are an absolute must too.

           RE:RE:FOR SALE:   NIGHT RIDING posted by R.M. Richardson on 5/21/2001 at 6:55:35 PM
Night riding rules. The best thing ever invented for night riding is the Ray-o-vac Floating Lantern. For less than $4.00 you get an excellent bulb, a real click-switch, the best reflector ever, PLUS a 6-volt lantern battery. The threaded base attaches to a reflector mount with 8-32 screws. The battery goes in a neoprene hugger, then in bottle cage. Switch hangs from wiring, vibration-free. Second system goes on helmet, battery in bottle waist pack. The Ray-o-vac reflector, don't laugh, is the BEST for night cycling. The beam pattern is perfect. The batteries last a long time and every time you buy one you get the whole system. You will soon have a collection of spare bulbs, reflectors, and switches. This system puts many big-$$ systems to shame and the whole works costs less than your know-it-all buddy's bulb. More details, maybe photos, if interested.

           RE:Night Rider posted by tom on 8/10/2001 at 9:22:08 PM
Night riding rocks! anything after midnight. I have found that
it is perfect to have 2 lights one on the bar and one on the helmet
because in the summertime the reflection off the dust can get knarly
for a helmet lamp. The most bitchin' light? night rider HID Storm
for the helmet, 10 watts lighting equivalent of 40 watt halogen, 4 hour burn time
5 hour recharge time, paired with a dual beam on the bar. This will give you around
6 or longer hours of night riding orgasmica!




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MISC:   Univega Mountain Bike posted by: Jericho on 2/22/2001 at 10:00:23 PM
I have an old 1986 Univega Range Rover mountain bike in dang fine shape with all original everything. I am seriously doubting it has any monetary value but I was wondering if there was any sort of historical value or interesting-ness to it? Is there any sort of Univega discussion/owners page somewhere? Anyone know? Thanks, Jericho

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           Univega Mountain Bike posted by John E on 2/23/2001 at 6:19:13 AM
Please list the "original everything" component groups and briefly describe the frame geometry. Evolutionary dead ends, such as under chainstay brakes, motorcycle-style brake levers, and cycloidal chainrings were common on mountain bikes of the mid-to-late 1980s. Many of the frames looked like road bike frames with increased tyre clearance and perhaps slightly oversized (for the era) frame tubes.

           RE:MISC:   Univega Mountain Bike posted by Tony on 3/1/2001 at 7:48:40 PM
Well, heres some personal history about mine. I had the same bike I bought used. I did my first race on it in 90 and I was the only one there with a Univega. Univega was big on value at reasonable prices. Things like the full chromo frame and fork were value, things like the exage 200 group were reasonable. I had lots of fun on that bike and sold it for $50 to move up to a 89 Mongoose Comp. At this point I suspect that it is worth more in memories than money.




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WANTED:   Hutch or Sun tour bear trap pedals posted by: Jonathan Kaplan on 2/20/2001 at 8:13:42 PM
Looking for Sun Tour or Hutch bear trap pedals in 9/16" in new or near new condition.

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FOR SALE:   Cook Bros. MTBs posted by: GS on 2/19/2001 at 5:01:03 PM
Anybody have any info about early Cook Bros. mountain
bikes? I have a couple of very early Cook cruisers.
(Actually one is serial #01)
Another has an internal cable guide, rack mounts, and
a bottle mount. This has to be from about 1979-82.
Would like to talk with any other Cook collectors.
Always interested in buying Cook Bros. bikes, parts,
etc..


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STUPID BIKE TRICKS:   Only achievement of the weekend posted by: Oscar on 2/18/2001 at 4:20:33 PM
Unless anyone else can claim it, I've got the first endo of the year. I thought the creeklet was frozen and I thought that brute speed would get me through it. Wrong. The front wheel planted into the creeklet, and I went over the handlebars and landed forearm first onto the hard ground. It was quite an ugly maneuver, really, since my left foot never released from the toe clip. Nothing more than a bruise, and no witness, and no harm to the bike.

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           over the bars posted by John E on 2/18/2001 at 7:56:16 PM
I am relieved that you are OK, Oscar. That must have been pretty scary. Sounds as good as the time I dumped the Peugeot U0-8 on a submerged 2x4, while crossing a stream that was flooding the road.

           RE:over the bars posted by Oscar on 2/19/2001 at 11:07:23 AM
It's a free bone density test. Someday, though, I'm going to be too old to take these falls.

           RE:RE:over the bars posted by Vin on 2/19/2001 at 11:21:12 AM
My first endo of the year was January 2nd. I had just gotten the motor of an old VeloSolex running (There's probably a picture of one in the picture database - it's a factory built bicycle with a 40-something cc motor on the front wheel) and I took it out on the road behind the shop on packed snow.

It went great going straight, but the second I let up on the throttle the engine died and the front wheel locked up. Tucked the whole front end under in a split second.




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MISC:   Sintesi Crested Butte posted by: JimW. on 2/7/2001 at 7:23:23 AM
I picked this bike up at a yard sale in Santa Monica, a couple of years ago for $20. I was planning to strip the parts and trash the frame, but I thought I should check on it here first. High on the seat tube is a sticker: TANGE
Cr-Mo MTB. It has all Shimano, including Biopace drive and a rear brake mounted beneath the chainstays. Any reason I shouldn't strip/trash it?

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           RE:MISC:   Sintesi Crested Butte posted by dickshooter on 2/9/2001 at 10:52:36 AM
Sintesi is a high-end Italian-made bike. They made (still make?) both road and mountain bikes. I'd clean it up and keep it. Definitely will be a collector bike someday, if not one already. Don't strip and trash it.

           made in Japan or Italy posted by John E on 2/11/2001 at 6:23:34 PM
Is the bottom bracket English- or Italian-threaded? Bianchi and other European manufacturers have had some of their low- and mid-grade frames built in the Far East. Tange, a large reputable Japanese manufacturer, supplies bicycle tubes which span a broad price/qualty spectrum. Tange "Prestige" and "Prestige II" were world-class in their day.

           RE:made in Japan or Italy posted by JimW. on 2/12/2001 at 11:39:59 PM
It's definitely Japanese. I guess it's not taking up that much space. I'll keep it intact until I really need the components.

           vintage = 1986-88 posted by John E on 2/14/2001 at 12:39:08 PM
I missed your reference to the under-chainstays brake the first time I read your post. This stupid design, borrowed from the old English rod-brake roadsters, lived a blessedly short life of 2 or 3 production years. Your brake mounting bosses are compatible only with U-brakes and Rollercams, and this probably restricts the value of your frame.

           RE:vintage = 1986-88 posted by JimW. on 2/16/2001 at 7:13:16 AM
I'd seen another post recently to do with this braking scheme. Why exactly, is it undesirable? Is it that it doesn't work as well? Or is it just due to incompatibility
with other brakes? I would imagine it would pick up a lot
of mud down there; is that the bad aspect?

The Biopace drivetrain makes two "never-wozzer" features of this bike. Maybe if it had a couple more examples of dead-end techno, it would be a real classic. Thanks for the input, all.

           chainstay braking posted by John E on 2/18/2001 at 12:31:15 PM
Actually, my under-chainstay Shimano U-brake works well enough, as does my front SunTour Roller-Cam, but it often gets wet and/or filthy, and it is awkward and messy to repair or adjust it with the chain in place. Also, I have to fight the "out of sight ... out of mind" instinct against inspecting for cable or brake pad wear. With a 24T chainring, the chain barely clears the face of the U-brake, precluding a "microdrive" crank upgrade with a typical 20 or 22T ring. Also, an under-stay brake could only make a bad case of "chain suck" even worse.




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MISC:   Paramount posted by: Oscar on 2/2/2001 at 7:42:47 PM
When did Schwinn stop making mtb's under the Paramount name? I saw an interesting frame marked Paramount POG for sale.

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           date code on head tube badge posted by John E on 2/4/2001 at 7:18:00 PM
Howdy, Oscar! Can you conveniently get the 4-digit date code from that frame's Schwinn head badge? (The last digit is the last digit of the year. The first three digits are the day of the year.) Also, check the location (chainstay or seat stay) and position (above or below the rim) of the rear brake mounting bosses. As far as I know, when Schwinn was producing KOM-10s in the late 1980s in the then-common Paramount red-white-blue color scheme, they were not also selling "Paramount" mountain bikes.

(I would suggest asking on the Schwinn forum, but, as you noted, one has to sift through alot of irrelevant and irreverent trash to find the good bicycle information that is there. I am grateful that this forum has not become infected.)

           RE:date code on head tube badge posted by Art on 2/5/2001 at 4:33:52 PM
I have a Paramount, RS 60, number on the bottom bracket is N3K0831....What does that mean John?

           RE:RE:date code on head tube badge posted by Oscar on 2/6/2001 at 8:31:04 AM
The frame is hanging from the ceiling at the used sporting goods shop. Next time I go to bother them, I'll borrow their ladder. Canti bosses front and rear. Tig welds, no lugs.

           Last Paramount MTBs posted by Roger Huffmaster on 3/28/2001 at 5:39:00 PM
Hi Oscar,

Schwinn quit making Paramount MTBs after the 1994 model year when they "paused" in using the name. Instead of POG, it is probably PDG, which stood for Paramount Design Group.

For 1993 and 1994, only custom Paramount frames were made in the U.S. at Waterford, Wisconsin, the standard models (R30, RS30, R50, RS50, RS60, RS80, Team, etc.) were made in Japan, the basic frames at least. I have a 1993 model R30 which I had repaired/repainted at Waterford last year, and they thought that they may have painted and decaled some of the Japanese frames.

If you want the definitive history, you should go to:
http://www.waterfordbikes.com, they have a good history of Paramount bicycles there.




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FOR SALE:   Vintage Klein posted by: casey saenger on 1/28/2001 at 10:56:20 AM
I have what I understand to be Klein's first production mountain bike and I was hoping to get some information about it and an idea of what it might be worth. Most of the bike is original to the best of my understanding. Brakes are the large motorcycle type, biopace front crank, xt compents, chris-king headset. The bike's paint seems in pretty good condition and the downtube says "mountain klein" instead of just klein. Thanks for any insight.

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           Vintage Klein -- age posted by John E on 2/2/2001 at 6:23:50 AM
I do not know what it's worth, but it sounds like a late 1980s model. Berto's "The Birth of Dirt" leaves off around 1984 and does not mention Klein at all. If the rear brake is a U-brake hanging from the chainstays, then it's probably a 1986-88. (This fad, adopted from the old English rod brake roadsters, died a quick, merciful death. My 1988 Schwinn has it, whereas my 1992 Ross fortunately does not.)

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