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Restoration Tips

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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   1986 Raleigh Record posted by: Sam on 6/29/2005 at 8:24:16 PM
I just recently bought a perfectly preserved Raleigh Record from 1986. It only needs new tires. I paid $20.00 for it. Does anyone have any sort of information that they can pass along about this kind of bicycle? Thanks!

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   1986 Raleigh Record posted by kim on 6/30/2005 at 11:41:48 AM
Nice find.
You'll find a lot of info on them under the Vintage Lightweight topic and in the archives here.




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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Firestone Bike posted by: Matt on 6/26/2005 at 6:22:22 AM
The other day I bought what I thought was an awesome bike from a neighbor's garage sale for 15 dollars. It is made by firestone and still has the firestone "Speed Cushion" wheels. On the chain guard it says Kenwood. Does anybody have any info on this type of bike. I am also keyword "trying" to restore this bike. So far I have just taken stuff apart and started removing the rust from the chrome. The pains color is an awesome metallic blue and I want to keep it that color but there is pretty bad rusting on some parts. Should I just have them try to match the color and sandblast then repaint it, or is there an easier way to make it look better with out repainting it?

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Firestone Bike posted by Zee on 7/23/2005 at 2:17:45 AM
Hi! I'm a newbie at this, too, but found good tips at this site about surface rust. If you get a good chrome polish (I've been using Turtlewax) you can take off ALOT of surface rust using a copper (not metal) scratch pad or brush (I found a good detail brush at Wal-Mart for less than $1 in the auto dept., near the chrome cleaner, and it has a handle). The "Dobie" scrubber sponges in household items are great too! They're made for non-stick pans so they don't scratch; also $1 each.

You'd be really surprised how much you can take off with just the chrome cleaner and a rag. You might try that first, actually, because when I tried a bit with a rag on the painted surfaces of my Western Flyer a bit of the color came off on the rag. So "Dobie" careful! (sorry I couldn't resist lol)...

-Zee




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RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS:   AMF Hercules problems! posted by: MCZ on 6/24/2005 at 4:55:48 AM
hello. i stumbled onto my AMF and fell in love. although it needs restoration. the rim was shot. got flip flop hubs but the spacing was wrong (i swear i measured right) however the hub doesn't even fit- the part that is soposed to go in is too thick. Im in over my head do i got for the old parts or new? front hub is pretty badly bent and the bearings came out.

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS: AMF Hercules problems! posted by Ed Lang on 7/22/2005 at 3:14:55 AM
Your hercules needs to be filed wider. The drop outs are made for 3 speed SA axles. I had one that had an axle that was ground flat on one side to make clearance. This was original equipment on 10 speed gearing. Ed Lang




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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   tire posted by: clayton on 6/19/2005 at 4:16:09 PM
is there a 26 inch slick tire like the 20 & 16 inch slicks on the stingrays? if so does anyone know where i could pick a couple up?

email me please:folkordie@hotmail.com

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   tire posted by taylor on 6/19/2005 at 9:36:14 PM
you can get 26 inch slick tires at 3Gbikes.com or www.streetlowrider.com




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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   handle grips posted by: phil fish on 6/17/2005 at 5:43:46 PM
how do you take the handle grips off a schwinn bike without damaging the grips? thanks much, what a great site!

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   handle grips posted by kim on 6/20/2005 at 11:51:38 AM
I usually take a spoke or a thin blade screw driver and slide it between the handlebars and the grip. Then squirt some oil or water or wd40 next to the screwdriver so is dribbles deep along the inside of the grip.

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: handle grips posted by Levon on 7/23/2005 at 8:14:40 PM
My friend's dad used to be a bicycle repair man and told us the best way to get grips off without damaging them. Most grips are made of some form of rubber or plastic and most lubricants (like WD40) are corrosive to these materials. He told us to use a few squirts of gas line antifreeze on the inside of the grip (like the person above me said). This is completly safe for any kind of rubber because the feul system in a car has rubber seals in it (and you'd probably want to kill a mechanic if he put something that eats rubber into your carburetor or fuel injection).

It also works as a type of glue for handle grips. If you put some on the inside of your grips it will slide right back on again then after about half an hour to an hour it will evaporate and make a seal between your handle bars and grips. If you ever need to take them off again just put another few drops into the inside of the grip and it loosens immediatly.

I've tried this and it worked like a charm. One bit of advice: make sure your grips are on straight before you let it set. We kinda forgot to do this and we can't move the grip unless we put more gas line antifreeze into it.

Happy riding/rebuilding/swearing at that one bolt that refuses to come out
Levon

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   handle grips posted by cam on 1/28/2006 at 7:23:58 PM
hi first you have to get a really small scrow driver any kind and wedg it in there and work it around.wiel the scrow drivers still in there spray a littel dw40 in to the hand grip let it stay there for about 5 minites than with your hand try to tern the hand gerip around and slid it off.




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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Busted Gears posted by: Josh Hicks on 6/11/2005 at 12:36:40 AM
My girlfriend has a vintage (somewhere b/t 1960-1970) Phillips 3-speed that is having a problem. Of the three speeds, only one still works (the middle speed). When she first bought the bike a year ago, all of the speeds worked fine. Now, however, when she shifts into either of the two speeds that don't work, the bike goes in "neutral." By "neutral," I mean nothing happens when you peddle -- it's like peddling backwards. This brings me to my question. Are the speeds busted or does it just need oil? And, if it only needs oil, can anyone recommend a certain kind? While trying to find answers to my questions on the internet, I've seen information about SA oil, basic motor oil, vegetable oil, kerosene, and so on. Can anyone help me help her help her bike? Thanks so much -- it will be a great surprise if I can fix her bike for her.

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Busted Gears posted by John Metz on 6/12/2005 at 5:54:10 AM
It is likely a cable adjustment problem. These are nearly bullet proof units and rarely break! For adjustment procedure go to www.sheldonbrown.com and click on "old bikes" then scroll down to "English three speeds". If the
bike has sat idle for a long time it is posible that the old dried up or got stick and the shift pawls are stuck.
Normally you would use a fairly heavy old such as Phil Wood
or 30 weigh auto motor oil. Try the cable adjustment first
but if that doesn't work use a light oil and see if that frees thing up then use the regular oil shortly there after.
We have a 1986 Free Spirit with a Sturmey-Archer hub and it has been trouble free! Good luck!




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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   How to remove the hanger cup and head cup posted by: Alec Binyon on 6/10/2005 at 1:46:50 AM
I'm restoring a ladies Shelby Flying Cloud. This is the first time I've tried to restore a bike instead of just throw one together for fun. I need advice on the best way to remove the hanger cups and head cups to prepare the frame for painting. Thanks a lot. I'm new to the hobby and I just want to make sure to do it right so I can do the bike justice.

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   How to remove the hanger cup and head cup posted by laffingirver on 6/14/2005 at 7:24:15 PM
so i dont know if this is 'acceptable' by any means, but heres what i do. slide a piece of wood down the frame and grab the cone with it. then tap the wood with a hammer alternating the sides in a 'cross' pattern, up, down. left, right, and so on. slowly the cone will loosen and pop out. make sure to use wood and not metal so you dont scrach, ding or do any other permanent damage to the parts.




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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   rust+paint, "Hiawatha 'Silver Chief'", and remaking old bike saddles posted by: Emily on 6/9/2005 at 2:42:12 AM
Hi all. OK, I just purchased (for $10) a Hiawatha 'Silver Chief' single speed bicycle. It seems to be in pretty good shape, though as it's currently in bits I haven't put air in the tires yet so it may need new inner tubes. The problem is that it's COVERED in rust. I've been doing the WD-40/coke+aluminum foil thing, which works OK on the chrome, but what about the painted bits? Also, where do I get touch-up paint for the pinstripes? And does anyone know anything about this sort of bike? I like it and plan to have fun fixing it up, but am not overly concerned about 'value'. That said, I don't want to destroy anything for no reason. Also, the seat was in the worst shape of the bike, came completely to bits. I think I can re-cover it, since it's just the padding and cover that went, but wanted advice. Has anyone done this? Furthermore (sorry this is so long) the bit of the fender under the headlight has rusted so much that the chrome is gone for about a 1/2"x4" strip. I can't afford re-chroming right now, how should I prevent it from spreading so I can go ahead and use the bike? Clear nail polish, maybe? Thanks in advance.

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT: rust+paint, posted by Adammit on 7/16/2005 at 4:56:43 AM
I know this is late coming but 3M makes an automotive rubbing compound which is somewhere between a paste and a liquid you can get it at an autoparts store. Put some of this on a rag and it works wonders I've cleaned a bunch of frames this way (though 500 grit wet sands do wonders too.) after that use some turtle wax to shine up the thing/ protect it from the moisture that caused the mess to begin with.




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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Chopper decals posted by: Chris on 6/4/2005 at 6:57:15 PM
I have an old 1977 Murray King Kat chopper bike that I am trying to restore. Was wondering if anyone had any good tips on where to find replacement decals. Thanks

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Chopper decals posted by brian on 1/24/2007 at 7:37:36 PM
hey, did you ever find any decals for the king kat?

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Chopper decals posted by Gene on 7/18/2007 at 9:20:55 AM
Do you want to sell your king kat? rout-tec@juno.com




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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Monark silver king? posted by: Richard on 5/28/2005 at 5:13:05 PM
I just came upon a monark Bicycle and was wondering if any one
has info on them? the decal say's silver king but the tank say's Cornet not sure if its orginal but it's colors match:red ,white,and black. I was unable to find anything like it. I whould like to see a pic or Know what year it was made. also it has an electric horn I wanted to repair it but have had no luck so far does anyone know an outlet?

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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   touch-up paint posted by: steven on 5/15/2005 at 1:03:23 AM
I have just purchased and old single-speed bicycle at a thrift store(circa 1950, manufacture unknown-not important to know.) The bicycle is a brillant red, a very becoming color indeed; the problem is that in several places on the frame, the paint has lifted exposing a bare surface. I am considering to apply automotive touch-up paint, can anyone comend or condemn this plan? If it is a bad one, what is an alternate course of action? Then what sort of polish/protector should I use? Thank you for your time.

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT: touch-up paint posted by Stacey on 5/19/2005 at 12:35:35 PM
Try nail polish Steve. There are many benefits to this. It's usually a laquer type of paint. This will enable you to build up the layers to match thickness. It comes in MANY colors, which should provide you an exact or near exact match. It's cheap, so you don't break the bank if you don't get the color right the first or second time.

Once you get the color and the thickness built up, and its had plenty of time to dry, you can lightly dress it down with some 1200 wet or dry paper (used wet) on a felt block and polish it up with polishing compound. Followed by a good wax job for the whole bike. Done right the touch-up should be indistinguishable at three feet.

Good luck!




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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   re-chroming posted by: Erick on 5/14/2005 at 8:30:43 PM
I have a 86 Hutch Trick star frame and fork that I would like to get re-chromed. I can not find anyone that will even talk to me about chroming a bike. I also have rims and hubs that I want to get redone also. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT: re-chroming posted by Levon on 7/23/2005 at 8:24:19 PM
Any chroming shop should be happy to do these things. If they aren't they're screwing themselves out of business and it's their own fault. Ask around at a auto or motorbike shop. Anyone who has restored or fixed something chrome will probably tell you where they did it and if the shop was worth going to.




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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   decal clean up posted by: Fred DeMetrovich on 5/8/2005 at 1:18:22 AM
While working on a 70s Schwinn with nasty looking but complete decals, I tried some hand cleaner with pumice on the decals and could not believe how well they cleaned up w/out damage.

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   decal clean up posted by Peter on 5/12/2005 at 1:18:23 AM
Simple Green is an incredible product as well. After cleaning the bike, putting a coat of car wax on (just follow the directions) will keep it shiny for several years.




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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   cleaning posted by: Priscilla Campos on 5/4/2005 at 1:43:01 AM
Hello, I am a fist timer on this web site.. I have just purchased an Apollo mini bike. Not sure when it was made as the silver sticker is torn. I purchased it because of the old banana seat and rear flat bed on the back... Any way I can clean the body with out hurting the stickers and paint? And also, it has a red cap between the handle bars that looks light a light?? any help will be appreciated... Thanks!! Priscilla

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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Getting Started posted by: Nigel on 5/3/2005 at 12:25:24 PM
I have just spent the weekend rummaging through my parents' garage and came across a pair of Raleigh bicycles (his and hers) which belonged to my grandparents - almost certainly pre WWII, possibly 1920s or 1930s (probably in good working order before being put into store 50+ years ago) - a Sunbeam Twinky child's tricycle given to me for Xmas in about 1964 (a gorgeous thing when new but much abused over the following 10+ years then abandoned with a broken brake and wobbly but not buckled front wheel), a Triumph Rodeo boy's bike c. 1967 (very rusty and with a mouse's nest in the saddlebag but otherwise seemingly sound), another small child's bicycle of late fifties/early sixties vintage with small wheels and very fat tyres, and a virtually unused Raleigh Esquire man's bicycle from the 1970s.

Rather than buying myself and my children new bikes I am quite keen to get at least some of the old ones back into action - the newer Raleigh, the Sunbeam trike and the Triumph bike in particular. I live in London, UK and have never restored a bicycle before. Grateful for any advice. Would also be interested in any views about the older Raleighs and whether they would be worth restoring.

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Getting Started posted by Peter on 5/12/2005 at 1:21:13 AM
If it is available in the UK, Simple Green is a non-toxic degreaser (sold everywhere in the US) that is invaluable to restoring old bicycles. Soak everything in it for a few hours, it will come out looking like new. I also recommend being careful when disassembling the head, wheel hubs, and crank, because that vintage typically used loose bearings. Don't lose any, because you will need every one for reassembly!

Good Luck.

          RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Getting Started posted by Nigel on 5/12/2005 at 12:41:14 PM
Thanks for the advice. After minimal maintenance I am now riding the 1970s Raleigh to get to work (clad in a suit not skin tight Lycra) and it seems fine. The three speed Sturney Archer hub gear is a joy. At the traffic lights I leave all the super fit youngsters with their fancy 30 speed derailleurs standing.

          RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Getting Started posted by kim on 5/13/2005 at 12:04:23 PM
Nigel, you've just summed up what is so great about the old english 3-speeds, You sit upright and you can wear a suit when you ride one.

          RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: Getting Started posted by Sally on 6/14/2005 at 11:06:46 PM
Did you find a source for 'Simple Green' in uk? I am in UK too and am restoring a Triumph (circa 1938 I think) and would like to get hold of some.
I cannot find a number on the sturmey archer hub though so I am not sure of the real date.
It s very close to rideable, though :)

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Getting Started posted by Simple Green on 9/9/2008 at 6:57:18 AM
Look for Simple green on US Ebay.

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