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Restoration Tips

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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   CHROME posted by: ANDREW on 6/5/2003 at 3:58:17 PM
NE ONE KNOW WHERE I COULD SEND MY WHEELS, FENDERS, ETC. TO GET THEM CHROMED?

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   CHROME posted by Kip on 6/7/2003 at 3:21:08 PM
Try your local motorcycle shop




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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   PAINT posted by: ANDREW on 6/5/2003 at 3:56:28 PM
PAINT FOR MY BLUE 72' STINGRAY? NE GOOD SITES?

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   PAINT posted by Wings on 6/21/2003 at 6:27:09 AM
Hyperformance in Arizona. I am on the wrong computer or I could give you a link. Try a goodle search for "Hyperformance Stingray" or check links here.

          RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   PAINT posted by Wings on 6/21/2003 at 6:31:30 AM
Go to: www.sting-rays.com




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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   A Better Cleaner than S.O.S. Pads posted by: Ted on 6/4/2003 at 8:17:10 PM
If anyone is looking for a cleaner that will remove paint and residue from a bike in a gentle and non-abrasive way you may want to try a product known as "Nevr-Dull - The Magic Wadding Polish". It comes in a blue can and it looks and feels similar to cotton. In Canada it's available at Canadian Tire and Home Hardware. I just picked up a can for $10.

I've had to remove spray paint from the frame of my Raleigh Sports bike and I'd tried S.O.S. pads as suggested but even while being super-gentle with them, they still tend to leave small scratches in the paint. "Nevr-Dull" will not scratch your paint no matter how hard you rub with it. It doesn't even disturb the glossy finish that protects your paint job. When you are done, rub the clean surface with a soft, dry cloth and it will shine for you.



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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   A Better Cleaner than S.O.S. Pads posted by JC on 6/7/2003 at 3:22:23 PM
Get the cleaning kit they sell here. It works!




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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Columbia Identification posted by: Sean Daly on 6/1/2003 at 8:12:50 PM
I've recently obtained an old coaster-brake Columbia bike. It was completely covered in rust and had seen several repainting attempts (I'm planning to make it a custom chopper). As I've looked over the web, I cannot find the model, so any help in identifying the bike would be welcome. A description of the bike:
-has frame like Columbia "playbike" or "Dilly"
-has sticker marking (I think, it's partly worn off)100th anniversary of columbia
-has no sissybar behind seat
-handlebars have a rise less than 12 inches, and brace across middle
-there are some areas (near weld spots) that have gold paint underneath everything else
-fork like a "Dilly"
-head bagde has 3 red horizontal stripes above Columbia Bikes and 3 black stripes beneath writing

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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   raleigh between 52-56 posted by: scott on 5/26/2003 at 3:59:42 PM
ok so two questions, im try to date my raleigh 3-speed, the yhubs date is 52, but based on serial number its a 56 ish any idea on this kinda thing, second question i need tires, and iom p[retty sure its osmething like raleihg had i tihnk called e.a.3 rims, which need a special bead diameter or soem story like that, adn 26 by 1/38, any clue where to look for tihs?

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   raleigh between 52-56 posted by Doug on 5/29/2003 at 4:33:48 PM
Don't know about your dating question, but tires in that size are not too hard to find. This site has a gumwall available, and you can try Harris Cyclery www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/index.html They have lots of info about old Raleighs. Good luck




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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Chrome Paint posted by: Sebastian on 5/21/2003 at 3:54:27 PM
hello guys!
i'm from singapore

What is the best chrome-like finish paint around in the market now?
would you recommend repainting the fenders with chrome paint?

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Chrome Paint posted by JimW. on 5/24/2003 at 5:28:04 AM
There really aren't any spray can paints which look much like chrome. Krylon makes one which isn't too bad; and I've used SteelWheels chrome finish paint on props for films. On film they looked pretty good, but in real life, not very close to real chrome. There's no substitute for electroplating. A good color finish will always look better than a fake chrome finish.

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Chrome Paint posted by sam on 5/25/2003 at 1:56:46 PM
The best use for Chrome spray paint is to redo the cad. plated parts.After you spray and it drys rub the part a little and it looks almost like new Cab. plated--I know that wasn't what you were after but reminded be of that tip.




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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Schwinn Pea Picker Restoration posted by: Dave on 5/17/2003 at 3:42:56 PM
I have an old Schwinn Sting-Ray Krate. The Pea Picker. It is all original with a number of options. I would say it's a 5 out of 10 condition wise. Complete but well used. Before I start a restoration I would like to know the production numbers for this bike to see if it's worth the cost output. Can anyone out there help with this imformation? Anything would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Dave

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RESTORATION TIPS - RUST:   Pitted rims... posted by: Larry "Boneman" Bone on 5/11/2003 at 11:39:10 PM
OK gang, I'm sure that we've all dealt with rusty, pitted rims. What I wanna know is what to do with the BRAKING surfaces of the rims. Doggone pitted surfaces are just chewing up brake shoes like gangbusters.

Would greatly appreciate ANY input!!!!

Thanks!

Boneman

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - RUST:   Pitted rims... posted by sam on 5/13/2003 at 12:33:24 PM
That's the PITTS! Well the first part is just old timey sanding to smooth the rims.Got to sand down the surfaces smooth.Then the best is to rechrome--as this provides a very hard surface,the only other thing that can be done is to paint the rims(not recommended).Paint is too soft to be a good brakeing surface.---sam

          RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - RUST:   Pitted rims... posted by Chris on 5/28/2003 at 8:52:16 PM
Don't settle for anything else than new, old stock rims. It is sometimes cheaper to replace rather than re- chrome.
Look for another set of rims!

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - RUST:   Pitted rims... posted by CMK on 6/6/2003 at 1:52:31 PM
Dont paint them, the paint will wear off after like hitting the brakes twice. My new mountain bike came with painted rims and now the black rims got a nice shiny ring all the way around them. Try using a bit of steel (or copper is better if you can find it) and some penetrating lube (like WD-40 or Rustcheck) and scrub the rims a bit, that should helf a bit if they are rusty, but if they are badly pitted, rechrome or new rims are the only option.




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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   BENDIX 70 COASTER BRAKE HELP posted by: Steve on 5/9/2003 at 11:32:07 PM
Hello friends--I'm trying to breathe life into a '76 Typhoon that a customer brought in and I'm having some trouble with the brake. Are there any skematics or online resources available? Everything seems to be there but there is a lot of drag on the wheel in spite of a thorough overhaul (also performed by the customer prior to my receiving it--might be the problem). Any help would be appreciated.

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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Murray Cadet Flite posted by: Robert Srour on 5/7/2003 at 1:46:44 AM
I found this cute little bike that I am restoring for my daughter. It looks like 50's vintage. It was candy red w/ white accents and white rims. When I found it it was primer grey. I carefully removed the primer w/ laquer thinner to reveal the detail on the logos and striping. Can anyone reproduce the logos as decals from pictures?

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Murray Cadet Flite posted by Bill Andreas on 5/21/2003 at 5:55:09 AM
Dear Robert,
I'm a graphic designer from NYC. I'm actually restoring a bike myself. The point is, I can reproduce your logos. Send logos (via e-mail if possible) and size needed. I will respond with an estimate. If the logo picture is clean, it won't take but a minute. If I have to recreate the logo (for a professional/ authentic appearance) my fee is 15per hr. + decal material. Feel free to include custom colors if you want or colors in general. I hope I can help.




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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   headbadge posted by: Mano Lujan on 4/29/2003 at 5:30:02 PM
I have an old J.C. Higgins that is close to finish on the resto. I am looking for the pins that hold the headbadge to the frame. Any help would be great.

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   headbadge posted by sam on 4/30/2003 at 11:05:11 AM
Memory Lane carries them I'm told.Would need to call.




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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   strawberry shortcake bike posted by: Allan Tew on 4/20/2003 at 2:12:43 AM
I have a young girls strawberry shortcake bike. I'm new to bicycle restoration. I would like to restore it for my wife, it was hers when she was a little girl. I'm looking for decals and exact paint colors. If anyone can help i would appreciate it very much! Thanks

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   strawberry shortcake bike posted by david on 4/21/2003 at 7:13:11 AM
Allen, if you get any tips plse share with us.
I am also looking for restoration help. I am looking for anyone tips as to where to get vintage decals or where can I get new decals (waterslide transfer type) made for my 1954 Raleigh Sports.
Good luck

          RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   strawberry shortcake bike posted by JimW. on 4/26/2003 at 5:49:47 AM
Transfers for Raleighs can be got from a guy in England. You should ask the question on the English Roadster list. They'll give you the name. For other, non-Schwinn bikes, your local silkscreen shop can make decals for you, but it won't be cheap. MicroMark http://micromark.com sells decal paper you can use to print your own from your computer. Silkscreen's best, though.

I hadn't realized that Strawberry Shortcake had been around that long. My 18-year-old had those when she was little, and I thought they were new then.




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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Cotter-removal tool posted by: Gralyn on 4/14/2003 at 11:40:32 AM
I know there is a cotter-removal tool - to remove the cotters from the cottered cranks. Can you still find this tool? Where? I have a couple bikes with cottered cranks - and I would like to remove the cotters without damaging them.

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Cotter-removal tool posted by George Summers on 6/24/2003 at 5:23:22 AM
You can get a Park CR2 cotter press from Harris Cyclery.

I don't have the URL offhand but if you search Google for Harris Cyclery it comes up as the first item. Tell them I sent you.

Another way is to use a hammer, but I wouldn't. One miss and there goes your bike. Also if you don't do it right the cotter pin ends up being all mangled.

The cotter press does a better job any way. Holds the cotter pins in much tighter and with less chance of loosening than hammering.

If you can't get the press another possible way is to use a U-Joint press from an automotive tools supplier. I haven't tried this myself but it looks like it should work. I saw one for $40 Canadian or you may be able to rent one from a tool rental. These are more awkward, they are bigger, heavier and more powerful than a cotter press and you will most likely have to get a friend to hold it while you turn the drive screw. You have to put a large nut over the cotter because the U-Joint press does not have a clearance hole.

If you absolutely can't get either and you must use a hammer, cut a thin piece of plywood about 50cm by 50cm and cut a slot 20cm wide and 25cm long starting from one edge. Slip this over the crank spindle to serve as a "shield" for the frame in case you miss with the hammer. You will also need a length of 19mm pipe to serve as a brace under the crank and the cotter pin. Complete instructions are on the Harris Cyclery website under "Articles by Sheldon Brown".

Good luck with your project

George Summers




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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Painting posted by: Nate on 4/12/2003 at 7:57:06 PM
I have a really old bike that has some very weird paint. It is not rusty but faded and has a black undercoating showing through. I want to repaint, what type of paint should I use for the frame? Fenders?

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Painting posted by Rick on 4/18/2003 at 12:09:41 PM
Nate,
The kind of paint you should use is totally up to you. But, although if you would like to have it look proffesionall, you would have to take sand paper and sand it all down so the paint is no longer on. Then get fine sand paper and sand it so the surface is totally smooth. Then go to any hardware store of your choice. Buy primer, and then buy ENEMAL PAINT. There all in spray cans.

Rick Johnson

MAD BMX HelpSupport/Builder

9180 Manko dr. Eastern Rapids, New York

          RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Painting posted by Wings on 4/19/2003 at 3:08:51 AM
Another Opinion!

Go to an Auto Parts Store and buy Laquer in a spray can! You will have many more colors to choose from and you will have a much better spray head on that can then from a hardware store. (Check the Auto Cans -- they usually mention the spray head). Lacquer will dry in a minute and therefore dust is not a problem. It need to harden for a day or so. If you srcatch it you can also spray right over the scratch to keep the bike looking good. Use a self etching primer from the auto store also!





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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   want to repaint adult vintage bike posted by: lola on 4/11/2003 at 10:54:22 PM
I just bought a vintage 50's Murray Montery. The chrome is fine but the paint is a faded red. How much should it cost to strip and repaint? How can I find someone to do this in LA?

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   want to repaint adult vintage bike posted by sam on 4/13/2003 at 4:10:21 PM
That bike makes a good beach bike--but not collectable.I'd first try rubbing compound or polish compound to try and bring back the paint.Go easy if you use rubbing compound to keep from rubbing tru the paint.If that doesn't work to sute you ,the bike might be repainted over the original paint by an auto painter--talk to several and you might get it painted as he's going a job--like $20 beer money on a Friday evening!

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