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Restoration Tips

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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:†††coaster brake posted by: Lincoln on 12/9/2002 at 4:34:35 AM
My '65 single speed coaster brake Hawthorne seems to slip when I pedal hard uphill. Do I need to overhaul the rear hub and clean off the old grease? DO something else? What kind of grease to replace it with? Special tools? Special problems to do this? Instructions on web? I recall fixing a flaky coaster brake 3 speed hub, but that was 20 years ago.

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:†††coaster brake posted by Skip on 12/11/2002 at 3:05:38 PM
First load it up with WD-40.
Then after cleaning, add some 30 weight oil.

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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††mag wheels posted by: isaac ray on 11/30/2002 at 1:22:04 PM
i want to paint a pair of gt mag wheels but someone told me that the paint will just chip off. Is there a special paint or primer for plastic. should i just scratch this idea. if it is possible let me know how and what supplies to use. thanks a lot!!!!!

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††mag wheels posted by a friend on 12/2/2002 at 12:22:30 AM
Issac, go too your local automotive paint supply and ask for the additive they use in the paint too make it flexsible; they use this additive for the rubber bumper covers on cars. Thats if your using a spray gun. Just clean your rims real good, and take some thinner and wipe them down, and use a 3M "red scratch pad" to rough up your rims for your paint.

††††††††††RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††mag wheels posted by JimW. on 12/16/2002 at 3:12:29 AM
I may have good news for all of us who have mag-style wheels in the wrong color. (I've got a pair of Peregrines I got a good deal on, unfortunately they're raspberry-sherbet-colored.) In the current issue of Popular Mechanics, I found a product feature on a new Krylon product: Krylon Fusion paint for plastics. It's billed as "no prep superbond paint". Sounds like just the thing for the job. Krylon's pretty ethical in their advertising, so it's probably pretty good. Pop Mechanics says you can paint a plastic trash can with it, which is probably the ultimate test. It costs less than $5 a can.

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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:†††Any hints on storing wheels? posted by: Mike Stone on 11/29/2002 at 9:28:24 PM
I am trying to organize the garage - the bicycle garage.

Just about everything - all the parts - have found their way into a drawer or container. I'm proud of that.

Now, I have to find a way to store the spare wheels. I must have 60 wheels.

Does anybody have any space saving ideas for storing wheels?

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:†††Any hints on storing wheels? posted by Stacey on 12/1/2002 at 12:30:06 PM
Sure, take some lengths of coat hanger wire and bend them into a modified "S", hang one end over the rafter and hang the wheel on the other. If your rafters have been covered over with drywall, a quick trip to the home center store and pick up 2 floor flanges, 2 4" nipples, 2 elbows and 1 6'-8' length of pipe and build yourself a trolly rail to bolt to the ceiling... then hang your wheels on that.

Good luck

††††††††††RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:†††Any hints on storing wheels? posted by a friend on 12/7/2002 at 10:44:15 PM
I have a great space saver idea; put them inside the house. I value my parts, especially my rims. Put them right inside the closet. Remove all those shoes you don't use, and replace them with nice shinny chrome parts; well worth more than any o'l smelly o'l tennis shoes.

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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††Best wax? posted by: David Poston on 11/28/2002 at 6:46:28 PM
Does anyone know if these miracle two-year waxes (e.g., Le Tour Frame Coat) really work? Do they damage the paint? Do they last that long?


I've been using 3M Show Car Paste Wax, which leaves a wonderful gloss and is supposed to last around 90 days on cars.

Anyone have any suggestions?



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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††???paint??? posted by: isaac ray on 11/24/2002 at 10:19:01 PM
what is the difference between acrylic lacquer, urethane and enamel? Which is best? also whats the difference between pearl,
pearl mettallic and candy type paints? thanks for the info.

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††???paint??? posted by JimW, on 11/26/2002 at 5:24:25 PM
The differences in basic paint types are due to the respective chemistries. Basically, Lacquers are thinned with more volatile solvents than enamels. Both are air-dried. Urethanes are two-part catalyzed finishes which set up shortly after they are combined.

Kandy paint is a transparent color-tinted finish, applied over a metallic undercoat. Pearl is an additive to clear coatings which gives a pearl-like sheen. A pearl metallic finish is a transparent colored (Kandy)finish with tiny metal flakes as an additive in it, with a pearlescent clear top coat applied over it.

††††††††††RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT: ???paint??? posted by isaac ray on 11/27/2002 at 11:17:50 AM
thanks Jim. this site is awesome.

††††††††††RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT: ???paint??? posted by Cal on 11/27/2002 at 3:58:34 PM
Can you still buy Lacquers?
I'd love to find them in a spray can but can only find enamels.

††††††††††RE:RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT: ???paint??? posted by Mike Stone on 11/29/2002 at 9:27:13 PM
Most of the automotive touch-up paints are laquer.

For what it is worth, I have found that laquer is easier to work with because it dries quickly and has less tendancy to drip.

Enamel, on the other hand, seems to have a more durable finish. It takes several weeks to a month for most enamels to properly cure. They may feel dry to the touch, but the finish gets stronger with time.

Mike Stone

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††???paint??? posted by Lincoln on 12/9/2002 at 3:11:06 AM
Urethanes can be very durable and long lasting, but some of that long lasting may only seem that way due to your shorter life. The old IMRON was supposed to be very tough but was very bad for your health unless extreme cautions were taken. If I was doing an all out paint job, I might consider sending my frame for powder coating, which is supposed to be pretty tough. Not sure how much it costs, and you'd have to strip everything off the frame. The powder coating I've seen seemed to be tough and hard.

††††††††††RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††???paint??? posted by JimW. on 12/10/2002 at 3:33:28 PM
Powder-coat finishes are incredibly durable. The surface is almost indestructable. A powder-coating outfit had a powder coated muffler in their car show display, with a small sledge, so people could test it. I pounded the hell out of that thing, and really beat the metal up, but the finish wasn't fazed. Of course, a lot of people don't like the way it looks, as you can't get the extreme gloss you can get with paint finishes. If durability is more important that looks, powder-coat is the way to go.

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††???paint??? posted by David on 12/17/2002 at 8:41:52 PM
For a really awesome paint job, I used Dupli-color "Mirage" when I re-painted my old touring bike. It's a three-step acrylic that produces the "chameleon" type color changes. I did the green/purple, and it's outstanding. $20 at Auto Zone.

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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:†††bikestand posted by: isaac ray on 11/13/2002 at 8:01:23 PM
does anyone have a plan to build a bike stand i can use paint my frames. one that can rotate 360 degrees and up and down. thanks

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:†††bikestand posted by Will on 11/14/2002 at 1:35:14 AM
HI, i would also like a bike stand plan that I can build too...please help me and isaac! Thanks to anyone that can help!

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:†††bikestand posted by L.LUJAN on 11/15/2002 at 5:57:52 PM
Issac, and Will. So Your in need of a "Bone Yard Cycles" paint stand. Now you can visit http://bikerodnkustom.homestead.com/ and save me alot of banking on the keys. But you know what, I still have too give you measurements. Well here goes, #1 Take a peice of flat sheet metal 1/16inch thick, and cut 23.x13.inch. #2 get a old chevy bumper jack with the bottom jack plate like the ones they used in the 60's,and 70's cars. #3 Remove the up and down assembly on the jack. This will take some cutting of the stop edge at the top of the jack. #4 Now measure 3.inches off the back of your sheet metal that you have already cut. Place the jack plate down and find center. #5 Now weld the jack plate too your sheet metal 3.inches from the back of sheet metal. #6 Once youv'e done that, now place your post in position. "Now listen up"! lean the post back so it leans toward the 3.inch area that I talked about about earlier. In other words the rear of the stand. Now weld the post too the jack plate. Heres the tricky part, now I work with alot of Schwinn bikes, so three of my 6 stands have old Schwinn seat posts welded too the top of the jack posts. This seat post craddles right nice in the top of the jack post. You are trying too achive a 90 degree angle too the post. #7 "Keep it straight, and still" and weld good. If you need any further info. on this check out Jim Wilsons bitchen BR&K and you will see on some of my entrys my stand in photos. Once you have your stand all done you will find that painting will be alot more fun and better qaulity all around. No more hanging your parts like your laundry. You can also weld a 4.inch screw too the rear of your stand too hang your spray gun, or hose. If you use a rattle can disregaurd.

††††††††††RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: bikestand posted by isaac ray on 11/15/2002 at 9:38:26 PM
thank you very very much. info is very much appreciated. good luck. thanks!!!!

††††††††††RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: bikestand posted by L. LUJAN on 11/15/2002 at 11:12:50 PM
Heres some added information concerning the paint stand. Make sure you use the correct seat post too insert your choice of frame for painting. You will also weld a large washer too keep the frame from sliding too far down the post. As for the technics of this tool; as you paint your frame; stick your index finger in the head tube as you 360 the frame for your desired area for paint. Just make sure that the frame remains intack as you are turning. Every now and then between coats check your frame position, This way you have piece of mind that your frame is in a secure position, and not on the floor. After your frame is dry, turn and pull towards you every so easy and apply your foot on the sheet metal plate so it doesn't come back at you.

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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††Jack Taylor tandem restoration posted by: Bob Diehl on 11/12/2002 at 5:08:03 PM
I'm needing info on paint and decal replacement on a 1968 Jack Taylor tandem I'm wanting to restore correctly. Any help would be appreciated. I'm just getting started on this first bicycle project. Motor bikes are my normal focus, but this looks like a challenging project. Thanks.

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT: Jack Taylor tandem restoration posted by Steve on 11/13/2002 at 3:40:17 AM
If your monitor is glowing green right now, it's because of my envy...

Take a look at http://www.nonlintec.com/carlton and you can see how I did it. I won't say this is the best or only approach, but it worked for me. Decal restoration is a real problem, probably the greatest of the lot. Printing on decal paper is limited, because you can't print white, the inks are translucent, and fade if they spend a lot of time in the sun. But I don't have a better suggestion.

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††Jack Taylor tandem restoration posted by Joel on 11/15/2002 at 7:36:36 PM
Try Cyclart in San Francisco. Can contact them through their website.

††††††††††RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††Jack Taylor tandem restoration posted by a friend on 11/16/2002 at 3:23:10 PM
I beleive he means Vista, San Deigo California. They are located here on Old Rodes.

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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††Raleigh decals posted by: Jon on 11/11/2002 at 1:00:21 AM
Does anyone know where I can get all the decals for a 1970's " Raleigh Gran Prix?


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RESTORATION TIPS - RUST:†††Chrome posted by: Will on 11/10/2002 at 11:18:00 PM
I have a Columbia Commuter 3 from the 70's that has bad rust on the chrome fenders and rims and handlebars...pretty much everywhere there is chrome. What can I do to remove the rust and protect the chrome from it happening again? Any help would be great!

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - RUST:†††Chrome posted by a friend on 11/11/2002 at 2:52:10 AM
Will, Just take the whole bike apart. I mean down too the bare frame. Clean all your parts indivisually; its easier that way. Clean the bearings in the hubs, crank, and fork bearings and re- grease them. Remove the tires, and clean your rims inside and out. Remove the spoke inner rubber band and remove any rust. Clean the bead on the tires. Like you said, "where there is chrome; their is rust". After all is done, now take some car wax, and apply too every part "PRIOR too assembly". Once that is all done put it together and enjoy it.

††††††††††RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - RUST:†††Chrome posted by Will on 11/12/2002 at 2:03:09 AM
Thanks. I've been overhauling the bike and all its parts slowly, just not at the same time. I was just wondering what the best way to remove the rust and have the chrome shiny, if at all possible...
Thanks for your input on the matter! ;)

††††††††††RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - RUST:†††Chrome posted by Stacey on 11/13/2002 at 10:45:44 PM
Will, what I've found to work best for me is to get some COPPER (not steel) wool... you can usually find this at the grocery near the dish soap, etc and a small copper or brass bristle brush... hardware or surplus store usually have them for under a buck. Do your major clean-up with the wool pad and use the brush for the nooks & crannies... sometimes if things are really gnarlly I'll use a bit of WD-40 to loosen the rust. Wipe it all down then set to polishing with some automotive chrome polish. For a top notch 'pop yer eyes out sparkle finish up with some "Never-Dull". It's amazing the results!

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - RUST:†††Chrome posted by Will on 11/14/2002 at 1:37:42 AM
Thanks Stacy and everyone for their help! :)

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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:†††Mudguard (fender) repair posted by: Peter on 11/6/2002 at 2:36:47 PM
Help wanted please.....anybody had experience of repairing damaged mudguards? My 1931 Raleigh Light Roadster has original mudguards and I would like to keep it that way. They are thinner gauge than the Raleigh DL1 equivalent.

The problem is not rust, it is metal fatigue. The rear guard has 6" of the back end snapped off, the flat stays are snapped off, and there are two or three radial splits in other places, one of which runs almost all the way across the guard.

Enquiries so far have come up with low temperature MIG welding, or finding a good tinsmith. I'd appreciate hearing from anyone with practical experience of this task....


††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:†††Mudguard (fender) repair posted by a friend on 11/6/2002 at 3:33:55 PM
Hi Pete, Don't think Mig, the word for today is "Tig welder"! A Tig welder is the right choice for this type of job. The reason is, LOW HEAT, with minumal clean up. They use this type of method when building frames. No matter how well you mend it, you will still have too fellow up with added work too get a clean flat finish. Make sure the guy you hire takes into consideration that you don't want a warped mud gaurd back.

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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††New Departure -Model D posted by: tom on 11/6/2002 at 7:45:20 AM
I have an old green box of New Dep. discs.They have circular wear- appearing marks on them.Could these be factory machining marks? or just wear. I'm debating whether to use them, or just find some new ones. Thanks much for any help. Tom.

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††New Departure -Model D posted by a friend on 11/6/2002 at 4:08:22 PM
Tom, the circular ware marks on New Dep, discs is normal ware. That is caused by fine dirt and grime over the years riding, and grinding and the bike reaming idle. What I do with these; I put them in a 1. gallon size coffee can that I have made 6 holes in the bottom; then put the plastic lid that the coffee can comes with, and tranfer that too the bottom during the spraying of "oven cleaner". Tom! "stand back", oven cleaner has a way with the lungs, instant breathing problems. Once you let them sit a bit, pick up the can and shake it all about, you know what I mean, like a washing machine. Then set the can down and remove the plastic lid and rince, and spray away the grime too a shine. You thought your disks looked bad before, now you can see the real charactor now. Inspect your parts, like if you were Quality Control, and if they need a second washing; "spray once more", and put the lid back on the bottom and repeat. Oh ya, almost forgot; take it easy with your garden hose that you don't splash your face! Oven cleaner does "these eyes no good"! Keep your portable washing maching handy for small parts for your future prodjects. Don't make your holes too big on the bottom of the can in case you want too wash bearings. I hope this information will help you and others in keeping small parts from loosing their home. Have fun Tom.

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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:†††Serial Numbers posted by: Jenelle on 11/3/2002 at 1:47:40 AM
Where will I find a serial number on my bike??? I THINK it is a Schwinn (196?), but the jury is still out on that one. Thanks so much.

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:¬†¬†¬†Serial Numbers posted by Jenelle on 11/3/2002 at 4:52:58 AM
Okay, I found the serial number. but it doesn't match any in the oldroads.com data base. P414??0 Any ideas would be great. Thanks.

††††††††††RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:¬†¬†¬†Serial Numbers posted by Joel on 11/5/2002 at 10:53:21 PM
Your discription below had a couple of clues. The star sprocket and frame construction sound like an AMF bike of the 60s. Have a look in the database for AMF or Roadmaster brands and you might get lucky.

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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:†††Where to start??? posted by: Jenelle on 11/2/2002 at 9:27:52 PM
I have just (15mins ago) purchased a older bike from a garage sale. It has a bit of rust on the chrome and a couple flat tires, but all in all seems to be in pretty good shape. I know nothing about the bike- not the make, model or even the year. I would love to fix it up, but have no idea where to start. How can I find out what it looked like originally? Web sites, periodicals, and books would be useful.

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:†††Where to start??? posted by JimW. on 11/3/2002 at 5:50:19 AM
First, you have to know what you have. To do this, clean it up, so you can read the head badge and make out the serial# stampings. The head badge is the plate mounted to the tube beneath the handlebar center. If there's no head badge, study the bike, and make note of its features. Then,
go to the picture archives here, and look for one which shares the same characteristics. If you know the make, you will be miles ahead, as we can probably date it for you, if you can describe its secondary characteristics.

Extremely basic information you must note is tire size (usually molded into the tire sidewall; whether it's a male or female frame, and the headbadge information. From there, we can ask you questions about it, which will eventually result in your knowing what it is and its age. From there, you can learn everything else. So study it carefully. As most people on this list would agree, time spent studying bikes is time well spent.

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:¬†¬†¬†Where to start??? posted by Jenelle on 11/3/2002 at 6:23:29 AM
After removing several layers of dirt and grease I have found part of what appears to be a serial number! P414??0 According to a list I found on the internet this matches Schwinn's 1964 coding. This is the only indication I have to the make because other than the serial number there are NO markings! Basic features include that it is a man's bike and has 26 x 1.75 tires. The Hanger Sprocket has 6 stars cut into it (3 big, 3 small). The curved double bar has pointed ends (like sharpened pencils) where it meets with the lower bar, and is connected to the top bar just under the seat. It does not have a chain guard, but there is a spot where I believe one was once attached. The owner thought the original color was brown, but I have found some red paint under the green that she painted it.
I hope this is enough info to get me started. I have been searching to internet for HOURS. But all I have figured out is what it probably isn't. Thanks for you suggestions!

††††††††††RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:¬†¬†¬†Where to start??? posted by JimW. on 11/4/2002 at 7:49:46 PM
Sometimes, establishing what it isn't is the only way to find out what it is. It's like Michaelangelo chipping away the marble to get rid of everything that didn't look like his statue of "David".

That sprocket with the stars is probably the key to your puzzle. Go through the picture database here until you find one like that. Since you think it may be a Schwinn, you should probably start there. I'd recommend that you ask this question, with details, on the balloon-tire and middleweight list here. That's where you'll find the people who will say "aha!" when you say "chainring with star cutouts." Many of us only go to one or two lists here on a regular basis, unless we're bored. So the right person may never wander into this particular list, normally. Good Luck in your quest.

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RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS:†††Schwinn Tires on Sturmey-Archer Rims? posted by: Gralyn on 10/28/2002 at 8:59:28 PM
I have some new Schwinn gum-wall tires...26 X 1 3/8. Will they fit on a Sturmey-Archer 26 X 1 3/8 rim?

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS:†††Schwinn Tires on Sturmey-Archer Rims? posted by Jeff R on 10/29/2002 at 11:46:21 PM
The Schwinn 26 x 1 3/8 tire fits a S-6 Schwinn rim. It will also fit a 26 x 1 1/4 EA 1 Dunlop special light weight rim. It will not fit a 26 x 1 3/8 EA 3, Dunlop, Raleigh, or Sturmey Archer rim.

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RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS:†††Relace a wheel or clean it up posted by: Dave on 10/26/2002 at 4:31:11 AM
What is the gennerally accepted way to get a 50's schwinn cruiser rolling again? Replace old spokes with new when I clean it up or just re-use old ones to preserve vintage prestige?

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS:†††Relace a wheel or clean it up posted by Gralyn on 10/28/2002 at 8:58:00 PM
I think it depends. If the rest of your bike "shines" - you don't want the spokes all rusty and crappy-looking - but if the rest of the bike has faded, scratched, old-looking paint - and the bars, and rims, are all rusty....then leave the spokes alone. If replacing the spokes will make it look much better - then go for it. And actually, just how much do you think the bike is worth? If it's not worth all that much more than a couple hundred dollars - then the spokes probably won't make that much difference. I would try to get new spokes that look as close to the original as possible, though. And hey....save the old ones....If later, someone wants it all totally original...then give them the original spokes...they can change them out.

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