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Restoration Tips

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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Serial Number posted by: Paul on 5/19/2001 at 5:24:31 PM
I have an old Schwinn, I'm not sure what it is. I thought that it might help if I found the serial number but I can't find it. I believe the bike was made somewhere between 1951 to 1963. It has a spring fork in front with a bolt going though one section of the spring fork. Would anyone know where I should look to find the serial number?

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Serial Number posted by ken on 5/21/2001 at 9:59:44 AM
Serial numbers were under the bottom hanger bracket until 1952 when they were moved to the left rear dropout. They were moved again in 1972 to the head tube.
After you find the age, look at pictures to get a better idea- there are plenty on the web and there are good books with catalog ads etc that help distinguish among all the models - good luck, don't give up.

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I have an "poor soluction" for whose who loves an whitewall tire but hasn´t the money for buy it. Paint the wheel sidewalls with snow white latex paint (you could use it for paint your garden fence too). Well, if you don´t wet it with water jet or put the tires in the mud, it will needs only little "paint corrections" times in times. Ok?


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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   What Is the year of my SCHWINN STINGRAY FAIRLADY posted by: brad on 5/9/2001 at 3:23:16 PM
ihave a 1 speed (Green)schwinn stinray fairlady, on the left rear drop out it says "fe45411" plese tell me what year it is, and what years fairladys were made in too.AND YES ITS FOR SALE

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   What Is the year of my SCHWINN STINGRAY FAIRLADY posted by jj on 5/11/2001 at 7:17:41 AM
There are serial number charts on this site. Click on 'Resources' at the top of this page.

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   What Is the year of my SCHWINN STINGRAY FAIRLADY posted by Dick on 7/30/2001 at 10:00:00 AM
...June 1969.

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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   RE SISSY BAR REMOVAL posted by: Leigh on 5/9/2001 at 12:05:03 PM
In response to jj's reply concerning sissy bar removal:
the sissor jack survived roughly 10 minutes before shearing the threads due to the extreme pressure.
I am going to try a hydrolic bottle jack next.
I will let all know how things progress.

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   RE SISSY BAR REMOVAL posted by JOEL on 5/9/2001 at 12:50:30 PM
Before going to extremes, give the penetrating oil a chance to work. Sometimes it takes days or weeks to loosen a crusty part. Apply more at least daily. Scrape away rust at the edges to let in the oil. Tap it gently with a hammer, twist it if possible, don't fource it. Patience.

          RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   RE SISSY BAR REMOVAL posted by A friend on 5/10/2001 at 7:28:22 AM
How's it going Liegh?? I wanted too reply to this post when I first read it. I didn't for the simple reason, I do not have any expearence in this process. When it comes to rust I have long experince. I do know that when you have one pipe inserted inside another; and has been exposed to much weather conditions, thats a great resipe for RUST.I will wait for others to post replies concerning a problem, or solution in a given area; so I can learn too. Always remember, and take in concideration, that a situation like this one can take a turn for the worst. Its happened to me more than I care to remember. This is a chance you take when doing something, someone else had a positive out come. You win some, and you loose some. Thats experince at its best. Like Joel said, " take a rubber mallet, and ever so litely,with gentle blows, allow your penatrating oil to work". Good luck to you. Be patiant, and try not too compound more problems, I know its easier said, than done; but I have much experince in mistakes, just like every one else. You'll get it, hang tough!

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   RE SISSY BAR REMOVAL posted by john on 5/29/2001 at 2:58:14 PM
i had the same problem with a chopper. the sissy bar actually boke just above the right side. i oild like a mfo def party jam to no avail. my solution was... buy a nos sissy bar, and to get the old bar out, like i said the one side was broken, i cut the other side, and used screw outs to get the other side out. (i know them as pull outs, they may be called something else, they are reverse threaded, look like a punch, with a squared top, ya turn it with a wrench and it threads onto the hollow bar and pulls it out) john

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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   The basics posted by: Charlie Hobbs on 5/3/2001 at 3:01:57 PM
Hi Guys, I have an old British GPO (her majesty's post office) bike that needs some attention. It's basically knackered with a bad and flaky paint job and rust every where else.

What are the basics for making rusty rims good, and respraying a frame. Also rod brakes - I suspect that it is possible to change just the pad rubber, rather than the whole shoe, as a shoe for a rod brake must be hard to find. So what can you make theese from???

Pass your wisdon on - and thanks.

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   The basics posted by Sal on 5/4/2001 at 5:16:55 AM
They sell rod brake pads (roller pads) on this site.

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   The basics posted by sam on 5/4/2001 at 10:47:08 PM
the rusty rims are going to be a tuff one because your bike is a rod brake.You really need to have the rims replated.(or replaced)or you could change to a coster brake or drum brake--you did say you plan to make this a custom? With a coster you could paint the rims--but then you would have to remove any chrome that might be left. Tuff call--sam

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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Ames and Frost Model 80 posted by: Kyle on 5/2/2001 at 8:25:27 PM
I recectly found a very old bike out hiking. I looked it over and after I discovered that the rims had been made out of wood I decided that it was very old and that it was worth carrying it out of the ravine and bringing home; It has a brass badge on it that states, "Ames and Frost Model 80 Chicago." After searching online I came across only one page. Can anyone point me in a direction on where to find out more information about this bike? The frame is rusty but the metal is all sound. The bike has everything on it except the chain and the wooden wheels are missing most of the wood. Would it be better to restore this bike myself, I am pretty good at such things but have no experience with vintage bicycles, or would it be better, for the bike, to sell it to a collector or someone who probably would have it professionaly restored? Thanks in Advance...

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Ames and Frost Model 80 posted by Joel on 5/3/2001 at 9:48:54 AM
The company is unfamiliar. You could look it up at the library to see when they were in business. Wood rims were used commonly until the 1930s and are still made for racing bikes. More information would be helpful in dating it (chain type, wheel size, frame style, ...)

Restoration could get pricey (28" tires, chains, wood rims... $$$). An 1890s safety would be well worth the expense but a common motorbike might not be.

          RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Ames and Frost Model 80 posted by kyle on 5/3/2001 at 10:18:46 AM
The one page I found online was an Ames & Frost Model 86 and it was dated 1896, http://www.rydjor.com/1896imp.htm, I just went there and I guess it is a safety bike, now that I know what that is; So I assume that the Model 80 came before the Model 86, but I don't know if manufacturers change model numbers once a year or what. Thanks for the response

          RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Ames and Frost Model 80 posted by Joel on 5/3/2001 at 2:22:19 PM
The bike in the link is a safety or track bike from around the turn of the century. I scanned a list that I have of bike makers in 1905 and A&F was not listed so I would guess they did not survive the automobile era.

That narrows down the year pretty well. You might try the HH/Boneshaker/Safety forum for more info (or Ryjdor Bikes).
The book Collecting and Restoring Antique Bicycles covers bikes of this era pretty well too.

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Ames and Frost Model 80 posted by Paul Aslanides on 6/14/2001 at 7:29:29 AM
Sounds like a great find! I hope you keep it, and rebuil or restore it yourself. The wheels can be rebuilt - new wooden
rims are still available. They are made in Italy, laminated,precision drilled, size 700 C, spoke holes 28, 32,36,40, right or left hand,i.e. Eropean or American style spoke lacing. You can buy the longer nipples to suit these thick wooden rims. You just have to clean and overhaul the hubs. I don't know the price of the rims, but I fear they
may not be cheap. That size has been around for 100 years or more. Plain 14 gauge spokes will do, although stainless steel looks much better on these dark, varnished rims.
You may have to find yourself a 1 inch pitch block chain to
suit the sprockets. Gopher it! and good luck.
( Wish I had an antique bike). Cheers.

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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   removing chopper handlebars/sissy bars posted by: leigh on 5/2/2001 at 5:19:25 AM
I recently aquired two Raleigh Choppers in need of total restoration.
I have managed to strip the bikes downapart from the sissy bars and removing the handlebars.
I understand that there is 3/16 retaining ball inside the locknut on the headset but i am unable to get at this.
The sissy bar is also frozen in the frame.
Has anybody had experience of removing these items without damage the the frame or parts in question?
I would be grateful for any help or ideas anybody could supply me with, but please bear in mind that i am in England so some of your products will be unavailable to me.
I will reply to all messages and e-mails sent to me.

THanks again

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   removing chopper handlebars/sissy bars posted by jj on 5/2/2001 at 5:36:41 AM
The question of removing the sissybar from a Chopper frame comes up every couple years on this site. You should search the archives because I know it has been discussed at length before.

One resolution I remember was to:

a) Put liberal amounts of penetrating oil (WD-40, etc) on the sissy bar where it enters the frame.

b) wait a day or two, and then place a scissors jack (a car jack) over the rear wheel. Place a 2x4 (wood) from the top of the jack to the underside of the sissy bar.

c) start raising the jack.

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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Swap Meet June 24, Boston, MA posted by: Joe on 4/30/2001 at 6:57:45 PM
Bicycle Swap meet, June 24, 2001. Under the Bridge, Boston, MA. Interstate 93 North or South. Approximately 1 mile North of Downtown Boston, Exit 28 Sullivan Square around the rotary "Under the Bridge" Rain or shine.. This show is free to everyone and vendors.. If you have any questions please email me.

Thank you.


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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   no sub posted by: andrew on 4/25/2001 at 3:44:39 PM
what is murry address


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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Sears one speed - mystery model posted by: Jen on 4/23/2001 at 11:42:42 AM
Hi everyone,

I bought a very rusty Sears one-speed at a yard sale yesterday and I
am trying to figure out the model (it has been painted over or something) and/or the year it was made.
I think it's either a Spaceliner, a Mainliner, or a Flatliner. It has a Bendix
hub (RB 2) and is a women's. The serial number is 502462110772179 if that helps.

I'm trying to figure out what it is supposed to look like also
so if there is some great Sears bicycle photo gallery that
I'm missing (I did a million searches on Google), please let
me know.

Thanks very much.

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Sears one speed - mystery model posted by jj on 4/24/2001 at 5:21:33 AM
Did it look like any of the Sears bicycles in the picture database on this site?

          RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Sears one speed - mystery model posted by Jen on 4/24/2001 at 6:59:23 AM
Yeah, I searched that before to get an idea of the model. Here's the dilemma:

The frame is closest to the Mainliner photo in the database
except for two things:
1. The circle around the pedals (I forget the term) doesn't match.
It looks more like a Spaceliner's.
2. The bracket that runs from the rear of the rack to the
rear axel does not exist on the bike that I have. I can't
find where something like that would have been attached (if it
is missing or something).

When did Sears manufacture the Mainliner? Does anyone know?
Thanks, Jen

          RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Sears one speed - mystery model posted by Joel on 4/25/2001 at 1:19:20 PM
I think the Mainliner is a Huffy bike. The Sears Flightliner and Spaceliner are made by Murray. If the front sprocket is like the latter, it is probably a Murray. Are the dropouts pointy? (that's the part of the frame where the rear wheel mounts) That's a Murray thing too.

          RE:RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Sears one speed - mystery model posted by Jen on 4/26/2001 at 6:30:11 AM
Hi Joel, thanks for writing.

Ah, so did Sears merely market and sell the bikes while
Huffy and Murray manufactured them? I like this type of

But yes, the rear drop outs are pointy. (In a way that
is purely for decoration.) The front axel doesn't have
any type of spring and only the fork meets the wheel (no
other fancy stuff like on the later Spaceliners or the Flightliner
model pictured in the database).

Maybe it's just an early Flightliner? Any idea what dates
this model was manufactured? Around 1963 or something like
that? Or is there a wider range than what is reflected in
the picture database?

So many questions...

          RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Sears one speed - mystery model posted by Jen on 4/26/2001 at 6:50:16 AM
Okay, here is a picture on the web that matches my bike.

Is this simply a Sears? (No specific model?)

          RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Sears one speed - mystery model posted by JOEL on 4/26/2001 at 8:42:53 AM
Most bike companies marketed bikes under various store brands. Some bikes were identical except for the brand name, some were custom built for the store. The Spaceliner/Flightliner have variations from the Murray version that were Sears specific (different colors, chainguard, carrier...)

The bike in the link is a pretty generic Murray, the parts were used on other brands like Western Flyer. I would guess it is late 60s-70s. If you want to learn more about Sears bikes, there's a book that covers Elgin/JC Higgins/Hawthorne bikes (Sears and Ward's brands)1930s-about 1965ish. Has spring/summer catalog pages. Can get a copy from Memory Lane Classics.

If you need parts, I have fenders, chainguards, truss rods, grips, carrier, cranksets, more... as shown in the link.

          RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Sears one speed - mystery model posted by Jen on 4/30/2001 at 7:01:32 AM
Thanks very much for your help!

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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   nuts and bolts posted by: Tino on 4/21/2001 at 6:32:19 PM
Do you guys have any tips on restoring nuts, bolts,seatposts,brackets, rearsprockets, axels etc?
It seems like those things are always the critical things that never get done to finish your restauration.
Are there any tips to make those items nice, original and not cheap looking? Any cleaning and/or plating suggestions?

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   nuts and bolts posted by A friend on 4/24/2001 at 11:46:12 AM
Hi Tino, I just read your post. This works just fine for me. Take your drill, and a wire wheel, and attach it to the drill. Now this works better if you had a bench electric motor. Since drills are more common, we will do it this way. Turn it on, and clean away all the years. Hold on tight, and ware safety glasses for your protection too. Now your done with that. Get some oven cleaner and spray all the hardware real good,now rince. Now take your tap, and die set out, and clean the threads real good. Now blow off the threads real good. Now repeat the oven cleaner once more. Ok, your now ready to blow off, and dry. You will see, when doing all this, the hardest task is holding on to the parts. Now get the buffing wheel out, and attach it once again to the drill, and buff out, with compound your bolts & nuts to your eyes desire. Now that your all done, take some furniture polish, and spray all the hardware down so it don't rust up.

          RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   nuts and bolts posted by Wings on 4/27/2001 at 11:07:12 PM
I was wondering the same thing as I am about to put a bike together. Your suggested steps sound good. Must one use the oven cleaner? Why oven cleaner? Why not carbureter cleaner (Gumout) which does it fast, seems to leave no residue and leaves it dry. Would it slso be better to work with the nuts on an axle for buffing?
Thanks for the suggestions.

          RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   nuts and bolts posted by A friend on 4/29/2001 at 2:10:50 PM
Hi Wings, You were asking why I use oven cleaner? Good question, Its cheap! Like me". Oven cleaner does just the same as any cleaner out there; cuts grease! You asked about a residue left behind ; your so right! Thats why I rince this stuff off real good. I use it so much, I know how long it takes to do the job. With a metal tooth brush, I help it along, so I conserve my material due to my thrifty ways. The acid in the formula; think about it for a moment, what I'm doing is, etching the metal, prepearing it for the buffer.Then again, I am using a buffers compound as well. The products you mentioned are excellent for carbs, and other mechanical parts. I have a old carb basket I put my nuts & bolts in, then I rince with a garden hose and blow dry them off with commpressed air. Theres one thing I don't need on my buffing wheel, is GREASE! So with that in mind, I hoped I cleared up some areas I may have missed. One more thing, when buffing, always wear safty glasses! Make sure you clean your buffer as you go, you will know by the black residue left behind on your parts, and wheel. I use a clean screw driver, too clean the wheel between buffing parts. I have posted this topic before in the past, so anyone who is new, can benefit from this aswell. Like I said before; DONOT SPRAY OVEN CLEANER NEAR ANY ALUMINUM PARTS, THAT GOES FOR PAINTED PARTS TOO!!! They will turn the parts BLACK, AND PAINTED PARTS WIIL LOOK LIKE A SPECKELED TROUT, "I SPEAK SENCIRLEY FROM EXPERINCE! Thanks for your reply

          RE:RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   nuts and bolts posted by Wings on 4/30/2001 at 1:08:40 AM
Thanks for the explanation and additional information. I will give it a try!

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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Paint removal posted by: Greg Groth on 4/2/2001 at 12:39:13 AM
I have an old New Departure parts cabinet sitting in my basement. The back side has not been painted, is painted an olive green, and has a large new departure decal in the center. Rest of the oustide of the cabinet has been brush painted grey with house paint. Has anyone seen a cabinet as I have described, I am curious if there are decals under the grey paint as well. Is there a way to remove the house paint without removing what lies underneath? Was thinking it would be a nice way to dress up my shop and considering refinishing it, but would like to have decals made to complete the cabinet.

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Paint removal posted by jj on 4/2/2001 at 7:15:55 AM
I've seen those cases before. They're great.
Housepaint shouldn't be too hard to remove. Try a gentle stripper?

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Paint removal posted by sam on 4/2/2001 at 12:56:45 PM
saw one on ebay,don't remember the sale price but it wern't cheep!---sam

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Paint removal posted by sam on 4/2/2001 at 4:49:44 PM
Hi Greg, Have you looked for "ghost"decals on the sides .Sometimes you can see where they painted over the decals.Also check out www.beldecal.com/inkjet.cfm

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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   metallic undercoat, clear color overcoat posted by: John on 4/1/2001 at 12:17:44 PM

I just picked up a womans AMF from I guess around 1960-61. It's in perfect mechanical shape,( though clearly not as good in quality as a Schwinn)not a ding in sight. However, the paint is faded, and in parts completely gone. I'm contemplating re-doing the paint, because it has a tank with a bizarre dual light in the front.
This bike has a metallic under-coat, which is/was overcoated with a kind of sea-green clear, non-metallic paint. The desired effect I guess is a candy-apple sea green? Two questions: what is the technique involved here, and 2) Is there a source or commercially available coat with this color? I need to also be concerned with the paints exposure to the Arizona sun, so something of an automotive grade is needed.
(Respondants please copy me via e-mail in addition to posting here.) Thanks All!

John in Arizona

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   metallic undercoat, clear color overcoat posted by Jon on 4/4/2001 at 5:02:13 PM
If you intend to paint it yourself, try mixing a small portion of the green paint with the metallic undercoat. This will afford you a little more control over how much transparent paint you apply as a top coat and you will get a more even paint job overall. Generally, if you try to spray a transparent paint directly over a silver metallic undercoat, you will find that the topcoat gets heavier in some areas and not in others, especially if you are using a spray can or smaller airbrush. I have tried the above technique and it would work for the novice as well as the seasoned pro.

          RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   metallic undercoat, clear color overcoat posted by Jon on 4/4/2001 at 5:05:29 PM
Also, apply a clear coat or two to finish up.

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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:    posted by: A freind on 4/1/2001 at 8:26:26 AM
Hi everybody, This message is for those up and comming bicycle hobbiest. For those of you, who know, and have learned threw mistakes by perchasing misleading information about a bike that has a sales tag stating, its this year, this model, ect. I went to a antique street fair here in our town. Venders came from all over, far & near. I walked into a shop where I have a bike on consignment. When I went upstairs to see my bike, I came across a Schwinn Kruiser made up to reasemble a older style bicycle. This bike blew me backwards! For starters, it was "not" a 1947 balloon tire classic! The sales tag on the bike was" for $700.00 plus! Then that was crossed out, and reduced to $450.00. The frame was a Beach Kruiser 26". It had a Low rider after market springer front end on it, with the low rider logo on the yoke. This bike sported the late 70"s chain gaurd, get this" the guy painted the bike candy red and the rims too! It had wald fenders on it, and a seat that came off a middle weight english bike. Then to put the cherry on the cake" for those of you who know about Schwinn decals on a Beach Kruiser, the center post decal was put up side down, and the decals that went on the original fork, were now on the top tube. My beef is, that this shop is selling and displaying fraud. Now dont get me wrong, this bike falls into the kustom circuit. So with that in mind, buyer beware, and educate your selfs before you buy, for those of you, who this information applies. I went up to the shop owner and confronted them and explained my find, and told them to give my phone# and to have this guy call me so I can explain to him what he's doing wrong and set him straight. You just never know who you are talking to when your selling a bike that you claim to be original. In order to protect the shops name, I wont post it. But this is the second shop in this street fair where I came across the same problem 3years ago concerning a Schwinn Black Phantom. If you post a bike for sale, and the parts are not total original, then put it down for "as is". This will protect you in small claims court. Its JUST NOT WORTH YOUR GOOD NAME.


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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Finding a Restorer posted by: Brenda on 3/28/2001 at 11:37:02 AM
I have a 1969 Woman's Raleigh Superbe Roadster that I'm thinking
about restoring. But I would like to find someone to do
it for me. How do I go about finding someone to do that?
I'm in Dutchess County New York. Thanks.
P.S. I use it everyday to deliver newspapers..love this

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Finding a Restorer posted by Joel on 3/30/2001 at 12:31:04 PM
Cyclart, Pfeiffer Phrames, Nostalgic.net all offer professional restoration services. All have websites. I don't know of anyone in your area though there surely must be.

You may also be able to find a nice original for less money. But if you love the bike....go for it.

          RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Finding a Restorer posted by Lana on 3/30/2001 at 4:26:30 PM
There is guy in Hartford conn. that restores the bike you have his e-mail is jgbarned@aol.com

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