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Restoration Tips

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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   restoration tip posted by: sam on 12/1/2000 at 6:34:38 AM
John B.gave me a great restoration tip and I thought I'd pass it along.Buy a few cheap bikes at goodwill to practice on,paint, clean,etc,when finished donate them back and take a tax credit!

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   restoration tip posted by Wings on 12/15/2000 at 9:08:01 PM
I am going to paint and pin stripe several cruisers with a Black Phantom paint job before I paint an original Phantom frame this spring. I though I would try and Old style enamel also.

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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Menotomy's cleaning kit posted by: Bob P. on 11/30/2000 at 6:03:53 AM
Here's my unsolicited endorsement for Menotomy's bicycle cleaning kit:

It works. I've brought 6 crummy bikes up to good condition and it was easy. My only suggestion is to use only a tiny amount of the cleaning oil at a time, like maybe a drop per fender unless the bike is in really bad shape.

Thanks Menotomy!


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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   spoke cropping? posted by: David on 11/23/2000 at 6:46:07 AM
By the way, those are Schwinn spokes. thanks


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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   spoke cropping? posted by: David on 11/23/2000 at 6:41:53 AM
Does anybody here crop & rethread spokes? If yes, please post it. The how to do it.

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   spoke cropping? posted by Jon on 11/23/2000 at 8:49:44 AM
I have used a thread rolling tool. It looks much like a chain tool except you lock the spoke down between three small tapered rollers then turn a handle that threads the rollers onto the cut end of the spoke. It came in very handy when the right length spoke was not available. Good luck finding one.

          RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   spoke cropping? posted by Daivid on 11/25/2000 at 1:19:03 PM
Thread rolling tool. Jon, when you said good luck, meaning you just can't by one from a local tool or hardware store? Ok, so can you give me a little more on this tool? I'm sure there are others with the same needs. What was the tool used for other than cutting fine threads?

          RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   spoke cropping? posted by Jon on 11/25/2000 at 6:06:32 PM
The sole purpose of the tool was to roll threads (not cut them) onto a cut spoke. This action would actually make the thread diameter slightly larger than the spoke diameter and I believe would lessen the chance of breaking the spoke at the thread when under tension. The rollers had spiral grooves on them that would press the thread into the spoke. There were different thread sizes available. The tool was also adjustable for different spoke gauges from .080 to .120ga. You could find this tool in most upscale shops in the 70's. It may have been produced by VAR or Park Tools.

          RE:RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   spoke cropping? posted by Wings on 11/26/2000 at 10:11:32 PM
I travel about 40 miles to have my spokes cut and rolled in one turn of a crank. Non threaded spokes are used and this is very convenient because they will roll the threads on any length of spoke.
Bob's Bike Shop in Ojai, California has the tool. They would know the name of the tool and where it can be obtained. Phone: 805-646-7736

          RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   spoke cropping? posted by Daivid on 11/27/2000 at 3:04:11 PM
Thanks guys, i will give this Bobs bike shop a call. Park tools sells only to dealers.

          RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   spoke cropping? posted by bicyclepriest on 11/28/2000 at 9:51:34 AM
A company called Hozan makes a spoke thread chaser which I
think is what your looking for. The only place in the U.S. I
have seen them for sale was on Ebay. Pretty rare item here.
But I do have Hozan's web address. I currently waiting on
a catalog for them so that I may be able to purchase one of
these unattainable devices. check out www.hozan.co.jp They
are a Japanese company.

          RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   spoke cropping? posted by Jon on 11/28/2000 at 5:17:56 PM
Good hunting Bikepriest. That's the very tool I was describing. It looks like they have a very good selection of tools.

          RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   spoke cropping? posted by Mike Q. on 12/8/2000 at 10:23:15 AM
I can get you a brand new Hozan spoke threading machine for $110.00 delivered to your door in continental U. S. This is their top model for stainless as well as zinc spokes, adjustable for 14 and 15 gauge. Or, if you're really flush, a professional model Phil Wood machine is available for $2625! Allow about a week for delivery.

Mike Q.

          RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   spoke cropping? posted by Albert on 12/26/2000 at 7:36:31 AM
The Hozan machine is available from the Third Hand, a maail-order bicycle tool company located in Shasta , CA. The are going out of busineess in March--so hurry. The price is substantially less than what was quoted on this site.

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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Bicycle swap meet December 3, 2000. Swansea, Massachusetts posted by: joe on 11/14/2000 at 8:44:13 AM
Bicycle swap meet December 3, 2000. Swansea, Massachusetts. If interested, please email me.
Thank you.


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RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS:   2 speed Bendix model B posted by: Doug Cahal on 11/12/2000 at 3:37:51 PM
My father acquired two Schwinn bikes that he is restoring.
A Schwinn Racer deluxe and a Typhoon. He is working on the Racer
and is having problems with the Bendix 2 speed Model B.
Do you have a schematic for this? He gave me the bikes serial
number it is JA 76839. Any info on this particular bike(the Racer)
would be appreciated. Thank you Doug Cahal

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS:   2 speed Bendix model B posted by Jon on 11/16/2000 at 6:42:25 PM
An older Schwinn dealer in your area may have a set of manuals with the exploded views as well as disassembly/reassembly procedures. Guys who have been in the business long enough know better than to dispose of that stuff.

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS:   2 speed Bendix model B posted by MNSmith on 11/18/2000 at 7:21:48 PM
I have laid out a manual that might be of some help. It is for the old Bendix 2 speed hub. Go to the link section here at Oldroads and look up my site, Bunch "O" Bikes. You will find the info in my tips and restoration section. I hope it is info that will help you!

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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Sears Ted Williams tricycle posted by: Steven on 11/3/2000 at 12:15:28 PM
just found an old sears ted williams three speed tricycle and am going to try and restore it. Not sure where to start. the chrome piece on top of the forks where they connect to the frame looks to be gone and the cover piece on the back that covered the gear hub or transmission is cracked. is there anywhere to find old parts or replicas?


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RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS:   rebuilding coasterbrakes posted by: dedalus wainwright on 11/1/2000 at 9:17:44 PM
> I have a schwinn typhoon. i have two rear wheels, one with a bendix coaster brake, the other with a type IV or mark IV (I thought I knew the name but I cannot find one) I have cleanedand repacked/ rebuilt both and neither works very well. The type IV worked for a few weeks and then something went wrong so that if I back pedaled, it would lock up and start pedaling forward. The bendix feels numb when back peddaling and does not really sto the bike. The bendix wheel has a gear with a different tooth shape as well causing a creaking racket as I ride. So I would prefer to fix the type IV.I am looking for instructions on how to assemble them, I think I might have put grease where I should not have or put a part in backwards. Otherwise, I need a new wheel. any help you can give me would be appreciaed.

Thanks, Dedalus Wainwright

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS:   rebuilding coasterbrakes posted by Wings on 11/2/2000 at 10:51:17 PM
Could you look for a complete mame on the coaster brake you are trying to use?
The creaking noise can come from a chain that is too tight! Check to see if that is the problem. Rotate the pedals and see if the chain is tight a one spot. If so, adjust the chain again.

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RESTORATION TIPS - RUST:   holes in fenders posted by: John Linam on 10/27/2000 at 11:39:42 AM
I am trying to restore my own 1960(?) Schwinn Tiger. Lots of rust and a few holes in the front fender. How can I repair these holes? This is all new to me.

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - RUST:   holes in fenders posted by BillG on 10/27/2000 at 1:12:25 PM
It might be easiser and less expensive to just find some good used fenders

          RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - RUST:   holes in fenders posted by JimW. on 10/31/2000 at 6:31:29 AM
I agree, replacing is a lot easier than that sort of repair.
If you feel you have to repair it, strip off all the paint and
solder a piece of sheet brass slightly larger than the hole
to the underside. Flow on solder, using a propane torch for heat.
The solder should bulge above the fender surface. Dress the solder
down with a file until it matches the surface contour. Then paint as

Much easier to replace the fender.

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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Military Bicycles posted by: Mike on 10/23/2000 at 2:51:38 PM
Does anyone know where I can find information on Bicycles used in the U.S. Military during World War II? I would like to find an appropriate bike to restore for use in reenactments. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

          PAINT:   Military Bicycles posted by Jeff Panther on 10/30/2000 at 6:11:34 AM
From the Bicycle Museum of America's website...

What the civilians bought...

1942 Columbia Victory Sports Tourist
Columbia Manufacturing Company
Westfield, Massachusetts

The Victory bicycles were made throughout WWII by the Columbia Mfg. Co. During this time they were the only bicycle manufacturer that was legally allowed to make bicycles for domestic sale due to the War Powers Act. During this time the manufacturer was limited in the number of bicycles that they were allowed to make, so in order to purchase the bicycles you needed special stamps.


and the GI's used...

1942 brought us the Huffman Civilian Transport models with simple diamond frames, no ornamentation and painted parts. Huffman and Westfield Mfg. were chosen to produce a GI bicycle. The standard balloon tire "Universal Military Bicycle" and women's military bike (M306) used standard interchangeable parts for both manufacturers. All bikes were painted olive drab and had a leather seat, small air pump, seat-mounted tool kit, coaster brake, handlebar bell, fenders, chainguard and Delta Winner front fender headlight. The bikes were used at every camp in the U.S. and most overseas facilities that were not at the front. By the 1950's most of the bikes had been sold for scrap and are hard to find these days. In 1943 civilians could qualify for a bike if they could show a "need" for one (either a Columbia or a Huffman).

And, well... There you have it!

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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   1953 Rudge Sports, Decals, Rubber parts posted by: BILL LAMBERT on 10/16/2000 at 9:12:15 AM
I still have my original 1953 Rudge Sports bicycle I bought with my paper route money and rode all over Long Island NY. It has since gone through a number of moves and gathered a lot of dust, however I would now like to restore it. Is there good sources for the decals, correct rubber reproduction parts and the origial tread Dunlop tires

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   1953 Rudge Sports, Decals, Rubber parts posted by Grant on 10/19/2000 at 6:37:41 AM
Before you get carried away give the bike a thorough cleaning.
Use Pledge and a copper scrubby pad on the chrome.Then polish
with Solvol Autosol. Wash the paintwork
and polish with auto polish/wax. Go easy around the decals.
Do not use rubbing compound
or steel wool. When you are all done and the bike is together
it should look fine in spite of its age and wear. If the paint
is black you can touch up rust spots with shoe polish.
This is far easier and far better than a so called "total
restoration" repaint etc. I doubt you will ever find decals.
For tires your local bike shop can furnish the correct tires
in a variety of models, probably Asian. I do not know of any
source of Dunlops.

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   1953 Rudge Sports, Decals, Rubber parts posted by Peter on 11/23/2000 at 12:16:43 PM
Sorry this info is a bit late but Rudge Sports decals are available at http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/NICK_AT_LLOYDS/decals.htm Lloyds are in England but ship worldwide, and have a huge range, particularly for British and classic bikes.

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   1953 Rudge Sports, Decals, Rubber parts posted by Bruce Robbins on 12/5/2000 at 8:19:57 AM
Sorry about the delayed reply but I've only just started reading through all the messages.
You can get waterslide transfers for the Rudge Sports from H Lloyd Cycles in England. The downtube transfer costs £2.90 and other Rudge ones are about the same. P & P is £1 but probably a little more for overseas orders.
Their website (very basic-don't be put off!) is www.ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/NICK_AT_LLOYDS/decals.htm
I haven't dealt with the company but they're long-established and apparently very good. Most restoration companies in the UK use them. They do transfers for all sorts of bikes.
Hope this helps.

          RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   1953 Rudge Sports, Decals, Rubber parts posted by BILL LAMBERT on 12/8/2000 at 8:43:59 AM
Thanks for the helpful replies and comments. I am amazed to find out that there is a source for old Raleigh and Rudge decals since they are not as common as old Schwinn's and Columbia's etc. The bike is now cleaned up and I have begun to ride it again. In the longer term however, I would like to restore it or at least improve its appearance, since the bike (and I) got a few scrapes riding in the mid-1950's. Thanks again, I think that this is a very helpful forum.

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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Painting posted by: Oscar on 10/11/2000 at 8:30:27 AM
Back in December 1997, johnB posted a very informative piece on his method of painting bicycle frames. Some readers have been looking for it in the archives. I saved it and have referred to it a few times, so I thought I would repost it. Thank you, Oldroads for maintaining this site for us collectors and restorers, and to johnB, who originally wrote this.

Subject: Painting Techniques
Entered on: Dec 3, 1997 13:17
Entered by: johnB

Steve, first of all, A bike is worth more with it's original paint. If it's that far gone, have a pro do it. A Five Star is a potentially valuable bike. If you do paint it, and botch the job, End of Disclaimer

1.Strip or sandblast.I have a good sandblaster near me with a light touch. Others have not been so lucky. I hate dealing with messy strippers that don't work. Wash with thinner and light prime. I have my blaster do this so the raw steel is not exposed to moisture very long.

2. Use a fine file to remove any high spots from chips, welds etc.

3. Hang the frame by putting a 12" dowel through the headtube. Tie a rope to the ends of the dowel so the headtube is just above eye level. Do this outside, in direct sunlight. Don't worry, lacquer dries fast. Spray a light coat [about 1/3 of an 11oz. can] of lacquer primer-filler. Get all the nooks and crannies first, then spin the frame 180 and get the spots you missed.

4. Wet sand with slightly soapy water and 320 grit Wetordry paper from 3M. This will show all the high spots. Be careful around edges. Don't sand through too much, but
some steel will show at this stage. Fill low spots with Glazing putty [Small spots and scratches only]. Sand putty spots with 320.

5. Spray three coats of dark colored primer. This will take one full can.

6. Wet sand with 400 grit. Watch the edges, don't sand through there. You may sand through some remaining high spots- it's OK, you’re trying to level everything out, and you do that by sanding off the high spots and leaving primer in the low spots. 7. Three coats light gray primer.

8. Wet sand with 400 grit. Do not rub through anywhere. You will start to see the dark primer show through. That is your cue to stop sanding that spot. Don't miss it. You are trying to get to a satiny finish at this stage. There should be no sign of chips dings or low spots. If you see any imperfections at this point, BACK UP to step 7 and redo those areas. The quality of the paint job is being determined right now, so take your time.

Step 9. Hang the frame and shoot 3 more coats of the light primer-filler. Wet sand this time with 600 grit. The surface should look like frosted glass. No imperfections
should be visible. I like to wet sand with the frame in my lap [old jeans] and the sun over my shoulder. Sand a little, wipe with a soft rag, and watch the surface as it
dries. You will be able to see imperfections jus when the surface is half dry. It helps to be at least part German at this point.

10. Time to paint. You'll need three 11 oz. cans of lacquer for the frame, More for accessories. Hang the frame by cutting a 2" piece of wire coat hanger and bend one end in a 'J'. Stick this in the seattube, and bend the other end over your hanging dowel. The frame will hang just about level. this will ensure you get plenty of paint where you need it, but it makes it harder to get to the nooks. Shoot three light coats of color. This should just about cover the primer. No runs or sags at this stage, please.

11. Light wet sand with 600 grit. A little rub through to the primer is OK, because you are going to shoot

12. Three more coats of color.

14. Two tone? Now is the time to mask off and shoot three coats of the second color. 3M Fineline plastic tape will give you a sharp edge, but it doesn't bend. You'll have to use regular masking tape for curves.

16. Wet sand with 1000 grit. Things should be looking good now, don't rub through!

17. Wet sand with 1500 grit.

18. Polish with No. 7 Polishing Compound. Use lots of water, this is not a wax and you're not to the final finish yet. A few streak sand smears are OK.

19. Apply any decals and pinstriping now. Give them time to set up before you

20. Wax. I like Meguiars. Use something with low or no abrasives. I do not use clearcoats, I think they look fake and plastic-y, but if you must, clearcoat before polishing.

21. Shoot the inside of all the frame tubes with J.P. Weigle's Framesaver rustproofer.

22. Clean up the mess the Framesaver just made all over your bike.

23. Take a fine round file and remove the paint from the inside edges of the headtube and bottom bracket. This is so the bearing cups don't chip the paint in these areas. Smear a little grease on the bare steel. It will be OK, really.

24. Now carefully assemble your bike and ride it. Lacquer is easy to repair, and by now, you're an expert!


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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   how can i remove the old paint from my 76 sting-ray posted by: erick mayorga on 10/10/2000 at 3:56:37 PM
id like to know how to remove the old paint of my 1971 schwinn sting ray. and does any one know of a chrome plater in pasadena or montebello californai. i appreciate it. please email me at mayorgaerick@hotmail.com


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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Grey Ghost Paint posted by: Kim on 10/3/2000 at 2:28:15 PM
I just purchased a original Grey Ghost and the paint is only fair, it has alot of nicks ect.. on the frame. I really don't want to paint it,I just want to restore the original paint first. So my question is what is the best way to bring out the shine in the original paint.


          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Grey Ghost Paint posted by Grant on 10/3/2000 at 4:50:32 PM
Wash it and polish with car wax. If it does not come up right
away you may need to do it a second third or 4th time, as long
as it keeps getting better. Go easy on the decals and lettering,
they will damage easily. Avoid rubbing compound steel wool etc.
they are not decessary and will do more harm than good.

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Grey Ghost Paint posted by Kim on 10/10/2000 at 9:53:03 PM
Just an update on the Ghost paint repair. I removed all the parts off the bike and and cleaned it really well and boy the paint still looked really bad. So I started to wax the frame and when I was putting on the wax I noticed that alot of gray paint was comming off, all I could think of was great dummy you just screwed up what was left of the paint. Then I look at the frame really close and the original paint was still there. It turns out somebody had shot grey primer on some of the frame well 90% of the frame and the original paint was in not to bad of shape. Now all the primer grey paint is off the bike and now I am waxing it up and boy the paint really glows well.


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RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS:   tandem, steer from rear- "Barnes" posted by: jon on 9/28/2000 at 8:34:14 PM
Hello, looking for information on a bicycle built for two, steerable from the rear.Forward location is convertable from men's to ladies via removable top tube.Forward seat tube rides slightly lower than rear handle bar stem/ top tube.Forward chain sprocket is 17 tooth, rear is 17 teeth- small and 31 teeth for large sprocket.Wheel assemb. are missing though front fork tubes are drilled and rear wheel stays are rear facing slots with adj. screws.Leather saddles have a single relief hole ontop , mounted on mono leaf spring bearing "Brooks" stamp toward front of saddle.Leather hand grips bear an end cap with large "B" logo with "Barnes" across the middle of the "B". Large "B" also shows up on the top of front fork tubes. Double frame tubes from front to rear crank sets. Pedals all metal "racing stlye".The bike was given to me by my 76 year old father in-law who remembered riding it as a small boy( belonged to his uncle ) seems to remember it was old then. If anyone could steer me in a direction where I might find some information on the make,year, model restoration tips I would be grateful for the assistance. thank you, Jon Hallcraftjon@aol.com


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