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Restoration Tips

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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Schwinn kickstand posted by: Steve on 7/30/2000 at 6:59:12 PM
I have a 1961 Schwinn Panther 3 that I am restoring, and have no idea how to get the built-in kickstand back on! The shop that i had paint it removed the kickstand and didn't put it back on for me. Please help!

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Schwinn kickstand posted by sam on 7/31/2000 at 7:26:41 PM
Don't feel like the lone ranger,I had the same problem,just go to the" LINKS " find Bunch of Bikes site. under restoration he tell just how to remove and install schwinn kick stands.( I used a big C clamp instead of pliars) that site sure saved the day for me!




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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   HELP HUFFY SONIC FLITE - GIRLS posted by: dj on 7/29/2000 at 11:39:03 AM
I have a Huffy Sonic Flite that was my grandmere's bike. It is 2 tone blue & white. I need some parts and some clean up on it. I acutally ride it daily and would love a service shop in my area HB CA and/or any history or web links available. I can't find a thing on it..Anybody know what year my bike is? Thx

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   HELP HUFFY SONIC FLITE - GIRLS posted by sam on 7/31/2000 at 7:42:39 PM
First DJ let me thank you for your post.It led me to a great site on huffy bikes and preservation too.I'm the local preservation officer for our county so not only do i like bikes I also like old houses,So a site that has both is GREAT!!! check out www.huffman.org this should at least be a good place for you to start.

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   HELP HUFFY SONIC FLITE - GIRLS posted by MNSmith on 8/1/2000 at 1:41:51 AM
Hi DJ, Try http://hometown.aol.com/teambike/ . Gary and his shop reside in Huntington Beach at the corner of Indianapolis and Newland.




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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Housepaint 101 posted by: J.P.S. on 7/28/2000 at 5:34:25 PM
It pains me when I come across a classic bike that has been poorly housepainted, so I thought I'd share with all of you some of my "secrets" in the hope that ,together,we can prevent this blasphemy in the future. First, clean the bike thoroughly. You don't want any contamination ruining your paint job. Cover the seat with an old baggie, or, if you're the handy type, actually REMOVE it. I think there is a nut that has to come off...but anyway.....get some latex paint on sale in your favorite color. Then, using a sponge brush , CAREFULLY paint the frame, brushing in ONE direction only please.Start at one end of the bike and work your way to the opposite end. Take special care not to paint over any reflectors (safety first!!!!)Don't forget the headbadge, lots of folks forget this.Once you can't read it, your done, that's a good rule of thumb. A smaller brush works best. Don't stop until the entire bike is covered. You haven't done your job if your arm isn't sore and there aren't paint globs on the tires. A heavy nap roller works well for spoke painting, but, in a pinch,I've used a broom. I like to use a contrasting color, but feel free to use your imagination.Remember, be creative!!! This paintjob is gonna last YEARS if ya do it right. It comforts me to think that some day...long after I'm gone ( knock wood), my paintjob will be delighting others when they find one of my creations at a garage sale, swap meet, etc. Feel free to contact me with any questions..I'm here to help!!!!

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Housepaint 101 posted by JimW. on 7/29/2000 at 6:01:35 AM
Thanks for all the useful information. I'd been thinking
about ways of improving my pre-war Schwinns, but hadn't
known how to go about it. I'll get started as soon as the
paint store opens. I already have a broom.




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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   matching paint posted by: dean on 7/17/2000 at 7:39:41 PM
Does anyone know if it is possible to somehow computer-match a color already on a frame? I just need some touch-up paint but it's sort of an unusual green.

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   matching paint posted by Jason on 7/19/2000 at 6:52:49 PM
Hiya dean, Yes, it IS possible for the folks at the auto-paint store to do a computer scan to come up with a color match.Call around and ask, but keep in mind that they need enough surface area to scan. Bike frames are difficult in that respect. Maybe having them do an "eye match" would be more accurate. Feel free to email me if ya need to




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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Frame painting needed! posted by: John on 7/16/2000 at 11:22:54 PM
Does any do or Know someone who paints frames? I need a 1980 Sting painted. It is candy apple red and would like the same. Thanks

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Frame painting needed! posted by Doug on 7/17/2000 at 6:06:46 AM
Find a body shop that is into custom cars or motorcycles they are more open to the idea of preserving what you want than just any old body shop most of the time they will be happy to help but might be a bit pricy too be sur they know your bike is a valuable collector not just some taiwan junk




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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   Universal Centerpull Gum Hood Installation posted by: dean on 7/16/2000 at 7:45:59 PM
I am trying to replace my circa 1972 Universal centerpull gum hoods. I thought the hard part would be finding the replacement hoods, but it turns out that installing them isn't easy either. I can't seem to disconnect the brake cable at the retainer in the hand mechanism, so I can't put the hood on. I'd rather not have to disconnect the cable at the caliper on the wheel, but that's the only way I can figure out. Anybody have any experience with Universal brakes or other ideas?
Dean

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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   decal/pinstripe preservation posted by: Doug on 7/16/2000 at 8:00:51 AM
If you have a bike that needs a repaint but the lettering and decals are still pretty good in the past ive carefully sanded the bike down avoiding the decals and lettering and carefully masked them off with pinstripe tape and masking tape using an exacto knife to trim to perfection then re painted and the results were very good to excelent time consuming and also sometimes maddening (I must be nuts ) but finding the decals can also be difficult my personality is type A so if I can do it anyone probably can good luck everyone Doug

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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   how to get started? posted by: Bgurltryal on 7/9/2000 at 1:41:12 PM
I have this bike...it says 'herculese Bermingham England' on the metal emblem and has decals reading AMF. I would really like to restore it to it's original state on my own but haven't the faintest idea how to go about it. Any advise would be much appreciated!

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   how to get started? posted by JimW. on 7/12/2000 at 9:45:42 PM
First, study the bike, preferably with a picture of the same bike, or similar at hand. This site's picture database may be useful. This will show you how it's supposed to look. Make a list of what needs to be done to it and what needs to be replaced. Most people will tell you to give it a good cleaning and polishing first. Parts which look horrible will suddenly look much better. Test the functioning of everything. Make a list of things which don't work, for repair or replacement. Once you have an idea of what needs to be done, the job is well on the way. The English Roadster list on this site is your best resource for parts and advice. What that bunch doesn't know about these bikes probably doesn't exist. And everyone there will try to be very helpful to you. Who says chivalry's dead?

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   how to get started? posted by sam on 7/13/2000 at 9:17:30 PM
I agree!Also take pictures of your bike as is.this will help you remember just where every thing goes.and just for fun take more pictures as you go along,you'll be suprised how for you will go.




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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   BIKE, IDENTIFICATION posted by: ROGER on 7/8/2000 at 7:48:29 PM
I BOUGHT AN OLD BIKE TODAY AND WOULD LIKE SOME INFORMATION. THE NAME ON THE BIKE IS MONARK (SPARTON), IT IS A GIRLS 20" BIKE WITH A DOUBLE HEADLIGHT.LOOKS LIKE IT MIGHT HAVE BEEN A METALLIC BLUE.I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHAT YEAR OF BIKE AND WHERE I CAN OBTAIN RESTORATION INFORMATION, AND RESTORE THE DECALS. THANK YOU. ROGER

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   BIKE, IDENTIFICATION posted by rd on 7/8/2000 at 8:30:13 PM
I don't know of any way to date a monark except find one like it in the database or books. Memory lane has some monark decals.




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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   1972 Bottechia Gyro posted by: dean glaros on 7/1/2000 at 7:42:55 PM
When I was 14, I spent all of my paper route money on a beautiful Bottechia Gyro racer. It cost $250 US then. It has mostly Campy components, although I had to replace the original Nervar crank with a comparable Sugino model about 1974. In 1979, I stupidly had the Columbus frame painted, losing all of the original decals, etc.
I am 42 now and interested in restoring my old bike. Any ideas how I can get the frame re-painted with some sort of Bottechia logo, etc? Also, the Universal gum hand brake hoods are shot and need replacing. How can I get them? The 18 year old at my bike shop seemed bored with this problem(he told me I should just buy a new hybrid something or other).
Thanks,
Dean

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   1972 Bottechia Gyro posted by rd on 7/2/2000 at 12:33:39 PM
If you can get a decent tracing of your decals there are shops that can clean the tracing up and make you some oustanding decals.




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RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS:   new tire-old wheel posted by: Jim on 6/28/2000 at 9:26:10 AM
I am restoring an old Schwinn Collegiate 5-spd circa 1970
and I can't get a new tire on the rim, I've changed alot
of tires in my day and this one isn't even close to fitting,
am I missing something? I assume it is 26x1 3/8 size like
most others but the rim seems too big for the tire, should I
use a small mt. bike tire? need advice, thanks...

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS:   new tire-old wheel posted by Jeff on 6/28/2000 at 10:56:42 AM
I know that many Schwinns use non-standard tires, but I thought the racing bikes had standard tires. What does it say on the old tire (what size, brand, etc)?

          RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS:   new tire-old wheel posted by Jim on 6/28/2000 at 11:04:54 AM
The size is 26x1 3/8, that's what baffles me, i'll have to
look again for the brand...

          RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS:   new tire-old wheel posted by Oscar on 6/28/2000 at 1:25:12 PM
Schwinn had it's proprietary 26 x 1 3/8 tire size, which is different from any other brand in the same size (maddening)

Specify the Schwinn size to your bike shop

          RE:RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS:   new tire-old wheel posted by Jim on 6/28/2000 at 1:33:53 PM
you learn something new about schwinn every day,
thanks for the info...

          RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS:   new tire-old wheel posted by Oscar on 6/30/2000 at 9:01:23 AM
Wait 'til you try to swap a seatpost or a stem.

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS:   new tire-old wheel posted by Joe on 8/25/2000 at 4:39:35 PM
I think the Collegiate use a 27 inch tire.

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS:   new tire-old wheel posted by rickey on 9/6/2000 at 5:02:45 PM
26x1 1/4 on mine




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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Sears Roebuck 24' 5 Speed posted by: Ray on 6/21/2000 at 8:17:29 PM
I recently purchased a Sears Roebuck 24'5 speed muscle bike. It is almost complete. I need some tips on how to inexpensively get some of the rust off. I dont want to replate any of it just bring back some of the luster. Mostly because of the expense, and the availablity of a good plater nearby.

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Sears Roebuck 24' 5 Speed posted by Robert on 6/26/2000 at 12:28:32 PM
Just last week i bought a couple of the copper scouring pads at a grocery . The ones that look like spun copper.
You will find probably find them around the SOS pads. They work great! The copper does not seem to scrathch the chrome.
Removed really bad rust on an old murray wheel.

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Sears Roebuck 24' 5 Speed posted by sam on 6/28/2000 at 6:18:08 AM
Ray,I use to use steelwool but after reading Mark Smiths bike site Called Bunch of Bikes I'm changing to brass.You can find his web site under links to other vintage bicycle web sites here on oldroads--sam

          RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Sears Roebuck 24' 5 Speed posted by Jeff on 6/28/2000 at 10:58:21 AM
Menotomy uses bronze wool in their cleaning kits. Check out the ad above.

          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Sears Roebuck 24' 5 Speed posted by rd on 7/2/2000 at 12:37:37 PM
I can't find any brass or bronze wool in my hardware stores. Does anyone have a source to order?

          RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Sears Roebuck 24' 5 Speed posted by JimW. on 7/12/2000 at 9:52:35 PM
A good source of non-steel wool is a boat supply shop (chandlery). Steel wool is even worse to use on boat finishes than on bikes, so bronze wool in various grades is usually all they carry.




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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Rechroming Plastic? posted by: Scott on 6/21/2000 at 4:47:32 PM
I need some suggestions on rechroming plastic!!!

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:   Rechroming Plastic? posted by sam on 6/22/2000 at 1:13:33 AM
MR G's of Dallas tx




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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   removing the crank from a "schwinn hollywood" posted by: kim on 6/20/2000 at 1:01:25 AM
i have a schwinn "hollywood" that i picked up at a garage sale and i'm planning on restoring it but i can't seem to get the crank off of it...
it doesn't want to come off like all the other's that we've restored and i was wondering if it was possibly a two piece? any comments or suggestions would
help! please email me because i doubt i will be able to get back here anytine soon. thank you!

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   removing the crank from a posted by Morgan on 7/1/2000 at 8:12:56 PM
I don't think there's anything unusual about any Hollywood's cranks. Here's the procedure I use:
1. Remove both pedals.
2. Remove the locknut and cone on the left side of the crank.
3. Remove the left crank bearing.
4. (This is the tricky part.) Jiggle the crank in the hanger so that you can use a heavy screwdriver to knock out the press-fitted cones. These tend to just drop out in lesser quality bikes.
5. The left bearing cup should be enough, but you may have to knock out the right one as well.
6. When it comes time to reinsert the cups, try to find a vise big enough to allow you to press the cups back in so you won't have to hammer them.

I hope this helps a bit. Be patient!




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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   chain posted by: Brian on 6/15/2000 at 1:23:57 PM
Any suggestions on removing the 38 years of rust and gunk
on an original '62 Raleigh chain off an English Roadster?
I almost pitched it,but looking over it closely I was sur-
prised with the quality of the thing.Neat removeable link
too.It's got "Raleigh" etched in the links.Thank You,Brian

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          RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:   chain posted by sam on 6/15/2000 at 10:05:37 PM
take it off and soak in solvent(varsal)(napta)for several days then clean with a small wire brush and clean solvent,let it dry and use a lite oil. also if any links are not free bind back and forth and add oil.you might also try using cold gun bluing on the links if you want them to look new

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