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Restoration Tips

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RESTORATION TIPS - RUST:†††Montgomery - Hawthorne posted by: Julie on 3/16/2000 at 8:51:15 AM
Hello Vintage Bicycle Enthusiasts,

I am seeking repair for a Montgomery Hawthorne Bicycle, (original owner my dad), in
the NYC/NJ area... Can anyone help me out, as I have looked all over the place and
no one seems to be able to direct me to a person or place that restores "vintage" bikes.

Thanks, and any info you can offer would be appreciated!

Julie Ann

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - RUST:†††Montgomery - Hawthorne posted by Pee-Wee on 4/15/2000 at 4:40:05 PM
If you want to have a bike restored, I can give you several names and telephone numbers. For comnplete restorations, call "Looking Back Bicycles" (313-729-4643), and "Timeless Frames" (419-589-9728). If you are looking for a certain saddle, call "The Saddleshop" (616-946-0944 days, 616-946-0942 nights). For grips, "Fox Grips" (937-837-8783). For perfect chrome refinishing, call "Custom Metal Finishing Inc." (616-788-4277). And to have fenders rolled or straightened, call "The Fender Doctor" (847-259-0484). Hope this helps you!

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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††Who knows about Falcons? posted by: Dwight on 3/9/2000 at 2:56:10 PM
I recently bought a Falcon 5 speed at a thrift store for 7 bucks. It's
really rough with lots of rust, but the componentry seems to be high
quality (shimano gear mechanism, weinmann rims --they appear to be 27 x
1.25-- weinmann breaks, SR handlebars, stem and peddles, super maxy 3
piece cranks, ESGE spring loaded clamping rack for back, etc.)

The fork has a chrome mount on the right side about 6 inches down from
the top. It appears to be some kind of light mount but I'm not sure.

The frame is very big. I'm about 5'8" with long legs and can barely
ride it with the seat all the way down.

If you have any idea what model this may be or where I may find
information about this bike it would be greatly appreciated. And, of
course, what you think it may be worth -- if any of you feel inclined
to share your knowledge on this topic. I'd really like to know what I have and whether it's worth
doing anything to other than patching the tires. Anyway, any
information or leads would be greatly appreciated.


††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††Who knows about Falcons? posted by Morgan on 3/13/2000 at 8:57:03 PM
It sounds as if you have a bike built for the British market. The bracket on the fork would be for a headlight, and it would have to be mounted on the right side, as they ride on the left side of the road.
Falcon is an English make, but I don't know anything else about your bike, except that it's probably from the early 80s, and I'd love to see a picture of it.


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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††Help me finish my 10 year project! (51 Western Flyer "Super") posted by: brad on 3/1/2000 at 4:03:55 PM
I am basically just looking for help in making a final decision on how to finish restoring my dad's childhood bicycle....a 2 tone green with red trim -Western Flyer "Super". I rescued it (what was left) from a family barn in 1987 when I was 16. Today, the bike that I had originally planned to restore to "decent, driveable condition is now one of my longest and loved possesions. I'm now 27 and have carefully searched out and purchased everything that was missing. The only thing not NOS is the repro headlight lense. Anyway, I want advice from the experts on what paint to use...I'm not familiar with all types, etc...but I do know that basecoat/clearcoat is used alot. Is it as durable as a "baked on" finish? Acrylic, laquer, enamel, urethane are all just words to me. I am going to have the colors computer matched...i just want to finalize a type of paint. I am worried that a basecoat/clearcoat may look good initially but may "peel" like so many of the cars you see now days. Another concern is that it will be hard to touch up if ever scratched. This bike deserves to be done right...and I won't be satisfied with anything less. Also, I have the pattern of the "Super" script off an original tank....was this silkscreen or decal originally? How do I reproduce this to use on my bike? So many questions!! Who does a good vinyl seat recovering with the original "Persons" imprint? Were "double-butted torrington" spokes used on my Cleveland Welding bike? Who does the best chrome plating and should it be "triple"? Does anyone know if screws or rivets held in the Delta turn signal switch mounted on the top bar? And finally (for now anyway), does anyone have an original lense for the "3-ribbed" headlight or a set of NOS Davis Deluxe WW tires for my Western Flyer "Super" ? I have so much pride in restoring my dad's old bike...and now that I'm getting close to sending it out to have it finished (painted, chromed, etc.) I want to make sure I'm doing the best thing!! Thanks for any and all input.

Brad bdt91@excite.com

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††Help me finish my 10 year project! (51 Western Flyer posted by rick on 3/1/2000 at 6:00:34 PM
I own a Western Flyer Super, it was 2 tone green when I got it. The tank and chainguard where chromed. The 'super' was a decal. I restored the bike in black and ivory because the tank had holes caused by battery acid and it could not be re-plated. It is by no means a 'correct' restoration. Many parts are missing, including the very rare headlight.
My comment is this: basecoat/clearcoat is extremely shiny when well applied, peeling problems are few and caused more by UV reaction than application. It may be TOO shiny for a 'correct look'. I always find the clearcoat gives a plastic finish since the color is actually UNDER a coat of clear. Enamels are too commercial. Acrylic enamels and Urethane enamels are catalysed paints (paint-thinners-reactors) that do NOT use a clear coat. They can be rubbed, polished, touched up. I use this on antique gas pumps and they look very colorful but 'real'. Just my own 2 cents.
Good luck on that great project.
See my bikes at: http://pages.infinit.net/rbacon

††††††††††RE:RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††Help me finish my 10 year project! (51 Western Flyer posted by Wings on 3/8/2000 at 12:21:14 AM
1. Clear coat is durable and painters know how to apply it so it does not flake off. But, I also think it may be too glossy looking. However base coats of several colors are easy to use in base coats.
2. I know nothing about your bike, but I think good pictures may help. I suggest contacting:
Newsletter By John
5546 Northland Road
Indianapolis, ind 46208
fax 317 297 4755
He has a newsletter where questions are posted and the guys with knowldge respond. He also has a whole series of actual photographs of correct bikes. There is a small charge for a photograph.
3. Are you painting? Or having it done? If you scroll back to earlier comments either here or on ENGLISH ROADSTERS
or on VINTAGE LIGHTWEIGHTS, we had a discusion about paint regarding a bike Christopher Robin was going to do.

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††Help me finish my 10 year project! (51 Western Flyer posted by Jason on 3/18/2000 at 5:13:11 AM
Hiya Brad,
Regarding your "paint issue" , I think that there are different opinions on what is the best kind to use. You obviously want to do this resto correctly, and I can appreciate that. Some folks use single stage enamel or urethane in order to achieve a more "correct" looking finish. It's not as shiny as a base/clear will be, and will be able to be touched up easier. The technology HAS gotten better w/ those paints as well.My opinion is that there is NO reason to use old technology when restoring a bike JUST because it's an old bike, dig? By this I mean painting it with an un-activated enamel or ( god forbid) Lacquer paint. I am an auto-body repairman / painter, and what "I" like to do with my bikes is first, strip the bike using bead blasting and maybe a LIGHT sandblast on the rust on the frame w/ care not to distort or remove too much metal.I use a light coat of epoxy etching sealer/ adhesion promoter followed with a two part urethane primer. This undercoat system is good no matter WHICH topcoat system you decide to go with, and I think that it is the most important step of all. I then use base/clear paint. It's durable, easy to two-tone with, and I like to put my decals UNDER the clearcoat. It buries their edges and makes 'em look better. I don't mind the extra shiny look of base/clear, but, if it bothers you, you can have it wetsanded and buffed to dull it out a bit. This works well.Some people use a brand of base/clear called "Imron" by DuPont that is not as glossy and is designed for industrial applications and trucks. Very durable, but I personally don't use it.I hope I answered at least one of your questions. I realize that the terminology of paint systems can be confusing.Perhaps a book about autobody and paint might be helpful. One more thing....are you having the bike professionally painted?Considering your obvious care for this bike, I would suggest it, although it is very rewarding to do it yourself. Either way, I wish you luck. feel free to email me if you have any more questions. I don't wanna fill this WHOLE page up. hehe

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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††HUFFY FOUND!! posted by: RICK on 2/27/2000 at 10:41:13 AM

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††HUFFY FOUND!! posted by RICK on 2/28/2000 at 8:23:50 PM

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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: Re-plate components? posted by: Mark Hineline on 2/20/2000 at 2:25:59 AM
I have a set of Huret components on a Terrot that could stand to be replated (whereas the rest of the bicycle cleaned up very nicely). But if I do so, will the Huret name end up being buffed off the components? Any experience with this?

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC: Re-plate components? posted by Kmedia on 2/23/2000 at 6:04:48 AM
It depends on how deep the rust is and how deep the Huret stamping is. Most likely, though, the stamoing will still show up after plating.

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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:†††Restoring a 1952 Columbia posted by: John W. on 2/17/2000 at 6:16:54 PM
I need to know if using repoduction parts to change my 3 Star Deluxe Buccaneer into a 5 Star Superb is a good idea or should I restore it as is? I don't want to ruin an original 1952. Can anyone offer advice?

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:†††Restoring a 1952 Columbia posted by Jeff on 2/18/2000 at 5:37:23 AM
I think you'd be better off to keep it original if you want to consider future collectible value.

On the other hand, if you are going to ride and enjoy it, set it up the way you like!

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RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS:†††Black Spokes (Kawasaki bmx) posted by: Ted S. on 2/17/2000 at 2:55:57 AM

Just finishing up a pair of Kawasaki bmx bikes and need to know how to make or where to get black spokes. thank you.


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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:†††Overhauling Morrow Coaster Brakes posted by: Mike Quigley on 2/15/2000 at 8:34:26 AM
I have a 30s-era Morrow coaster brake hub that needs new brake shoes. Is there anyone who overhauls these hubs, or can sell me the parts?


Mike Q.

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:†††Overhauling Morrow Coaster Brakes posted by rick on 2/23/2000 at 5:48:42 PM
I had the brake pads in my Whizzer's front expander brake re-lined by a local autoparts. Car brakes (rear brake shoes) are re-built using new coumpounds (previously asbestos based). The cost was 10$. I had to grind a bit of it off so it would fit back in the drum: Now, I can do a front wheel wheelie when I brake!

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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:†††Krate restore do or don't posted by: Kerry on 2/13/2000 at 9:22:12 PM
Question? I have my original 1972 Pea Picker from when I was a child. The bike is in good shape aside from the few scraps it's got from riding. The seat has some splits and needs recovering. Had the brake cables replaced a couple of years ago. Now I have been told by some to leave it alone for the value will continue to appreciate. And others have said to restore it (repaint-rechromed etc).So my question is what goes into the decission process? It would be kind-of neat to see it back to brand new form. But when it comes time to sell will this compromise the value?
Thanks for any advice

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:†††Krate restore do or don't posted by BillG on 2/14/2000 at 5:46:33 AM
If you want to keep it in your family for ever, a complete
resto would be the way to go. But you'll NEVER get your money
out of it.

If you are thinking about reselling, DO NOT spend a cent on restoration.
Bike restoration usually decreases a bicycle's value. Just clean it
up using all the tips in these forums.

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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††Wooden Rim Restoration posted by: John Buckingham on 2/13/2000 at 4:13:58 PM
I recently inherited a man's 26" bicycle with wooden rims. They are all there but
not true anymore and perhaps a bit dry rotted in a spot or two.. can they be saved ? Who does restoration work
on this type of rim ? Thanks, John "jbucking@richnet.net"

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††Wooden Rim Restoration posted by Pee-Wee on 4/15/2000 at 4:59:24 PM
If you want to true your wheels, you should find someone who has the professional setup. First, you would soke them in water for 3 days, then put 'em in a hand-made press, and oven bake 'em. This will help about 80-100%.

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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††Pin stripe posted by: Scott on 2/10/2000 at 9:13:34 PM
Can anyone recommend a pin striper in Chicago for a Schwinn Black Phantom? Thank you.


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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††Monark Silver King posted by: Michael on 2/7/2000 at 7:53:27 PM
The rims on my Girls '30's Silver King are rusty and flaking chrome.
Would you rechrome them? I have heard it is best to leave somethings alone? Help me out Thanks.

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT:†††Monark Silver King posted by Bob P. on 2/8/2000 at 6:20:54 AM
If you've tried all of the usual restoration tips here, and they are flaking, I guess you might want to consider re-chroming them. You also could buy some cheap steel rims for the short term and try looking around for correct originals in good shape.

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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:Triumph in basement posted by: jaime on 2/7/2000 at 8:23:29 AM
Looking for a bike for springtime work commute a found old black women's triumph in apartment basement. Th
there are no wheels and it's in farely poor condition. I just want something
rideable. is it worth fixing up (could use a project)? I've
never fixed up a bike before.

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:Triumph in basement posted by Bob P. on 2/8/2000 at 6:23:51 AM
Triumphs are great English bicycles. You might want to post your question under the English Roadster topic. I'll bet there are a lot of people there who can gove you good advise and they probably have lots of parts, too. Wheels would be very easy to find for that bike, and they won't cost much either.

Another idea is to go to your local Salvation Army or GoodWill shop and see if they have any English bikes.

FYI: The Triumph is a collectible bike due to it's motorcycle lineage.

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RESTORATION TIPS - SADDLES:†††Recovering a Brooks saddle posted by: Mark P on 2/1/2000 at 11:27:24 AM
Is it possible to replace the leather on a Brooks saddle by using a thick piece of leather cut to size and suitably treated before I stretch it? I was going to use a piece cut from the bottom of an old handbag or an old book satchel. I've got a source for the riviets locally. Thank you.

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - SADDLES:†††Recovering a Brooks saddle posted by Phil on 2/2/2000 at 10:50:29 AM
That leather is pretty thick and in a specific shape.
You might be able to cover it with thinner leather and riviets, but I don't think you'll be able to find or mold
a thicker leather.

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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:†††GOBEL Men's Bicycle posted by: Tom on 1/19/2000 at 8:32:58 PM
I have a men's bicycle, 26" wheels, with the name GOBEL on
the headbadge, seat tube and rear fender. It is a single speed
w/ coaster brake. I am looking for any information on this
bike and/or manufacturer. It appears to be 1950's vintage.

††††††††††RE:RESTORATION TIPS - MISC:¬†¬†¬†GOBEL Men's Bicycle posted by Jeff on 1/20/2000 at 6:39:29 AM
What size are the tires?

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