Author Topic: Restoration Tips discussions started in 2005 through 2011  (Read 52323 times)

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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT 1967 OTASCO FLYING O EXPRESS
« Reply #315 on: November 09, 2011, 09:09:59 am »
Posted on: 8-20-2007 by Lorene Palomares
Hi everyone
I need some info about this bike. Its bright purple the lights still work I bought it for $20.00 at a thrift store. I found the picture on the picture database. Does anyone know how much this bike might be worth? Or really anything about it would be appreciated. Thanks.

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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT Lead Paint?????
« Reply #316 on: November 09, 2011, 09:09:59 am »
Posted on: 8-20-2007 by Mike
Hello

Can anyone tell me if older bicycles 60~s 70~s have lead in the paint. I know auto paint was know to have it during this era.
Thanks
Posted on: 12-17-2007 by Joe
I would say that it would most all paint did. I would guess that most bicycles used the same type of paint as was used in the automotive industry. I wouldn~t worry much about it unless you were planning on chewing on the frame. It wasn~t until more recent years that they stopped using lead in paint.
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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT Lug Lining
« Reply #317 on: November 09, 2011, 09:09:59 am »
Posted on: 8-22-2007 by bob giess
Hi all has anybody out there tried to use those fine tip Sharpie pens containing oil based paint for lug lining. They~re no available in the UK and I dont want to pay loads of postage from the States ( presuming I can find somewhere that will ship to the UK)only to find that they~ree no good.
Thanks Bob
Posted on: 5-16-2008 by Vernon Liddell
Hi Bob

I had some success with Pilot pens. The only problems are that the Black will never come off and the gold is water based (I think). I oversprayed lightly with some Letraset lacquer then did the whole frame with cellulose lacquer. It would work if you could get nothing else but it~s a real ham way.

awra best - Vernon
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RESTORATION TIPS - WHEELS Schwinn Cycle Truck
« Reply #318 on: November 09, 2011, 09:09:59 am »
Posted on: 8-29-2007 by Eric
Hello I recently got into old Schwinn cycle trucks. There are a lot of things that are a little bit different about them.
On the one I~m working on now I need to pull the wheels off. When taking the front wheel off do I loosen the cups and pull the axle out? Someone said that you can pull the forks apart and get it off that way. Any input on this would be greatly appreciated and if anyone happens to know of a good resource (print or on-line) for cycle truck restoration that~d be great!

Thanks
Eric
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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT pinarello re-paint
« Reply #319 on: November 09, 2011, 09:09:59 am »
Posted on: 9-16-2007 by bob
i~m looking for someone (east coast) who can repaint to original a 1995 Pinarello replica of the Banesto Tour winning bike
pse send replies to robert.patterson@fao.org
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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC Atlanta restoration
« Reply #320 on: November 09, 2011, 09:09:59 am »
Posted on: 9-17-2007 by Lee
We have a 1960~s or 70~s Murray tricycle that we would like
to have restored for our new grandson. It will need new
tires handle bar grips petals rear portion welded and
painted. Do you know of anyone in the Atlanta area that
restores tricycles?

Thanks
Lee         dmaconlee@aol.com
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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT Old Brooks Saddle
« Reply #321 on: November 09, 2011, 09:09:59 am »
Posted on: 9-23-2007 by Beth
This is the seat that came on a Superbe that I just bought for $10. The leather is really dry and it has some cracks. It~s also got some white paint on it. Is it too far gone or can it be brought back to life. If so what is the best way to restore it? Thanks!
Posted on: 9-23-2007 by beth
Sorry- here is a link to the photo http--www.flickr.com-photos-12517924@N02-1430416476-
Posted on: 9-27-2007 by Paul C
The seat may be ok if you try and remove some of the paint with a solvent depends what paint it is. It may result in a rough surface with remnants of the paint still showing. The leather can be made supple with neetsfoot oil. If you use saddle soap or any other polish it may become slippery when you are riding. The first thing is to try and remove some paint  you may find it is in the fibres and may not totally be removed. In trying to remove it the fibres will become rough. But you could resmooth them down Burnish with water and then a surface finish.
Or at that price use it until you come accross a better seat.(Just a thought)
Paul C
Paul C
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RESTORATION TIPS - RUST Suburban chain restoration
« Reply #322 on: November 09, 2011, 09:09:59 am »
Posted on: 9-25-2007 by Chad
I recently bought a schwinn suburban from a junk dealer.  It looks like the bike has seen a bit of weather and the chain needs plenty of loving.  I was going to break the chain and give a good cleaning and regreasing but my chain tool is made for contemporary chains and is too small.  Any suggestions?  Thanks.
Posted on: 9-26-2007 by Chad
The chain does not seat far enough in the chain tool so the pin hits below the rivet.  In other words the space from the edge of the chain to the rivet is farther than on contemporary chains.  The chain tool is a park tool and works on all of my newer bikes.  I am thinking of just trying to restore the chain while on the bike but it would be must easier to remove it and rejuvenate it.
Posted on: 9-26-2007 by skip
Too small meaning the pin isn~t long enough?  Or too narrow?
A cheap chain tool from Walmart should work.
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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT Rust
« Reply #323 on: November 09, 2011, 09:09:59 am »
Posted on: 9-28-2007 by Lori
I have my 1980~s style Radioflyer roadster that I am wanting to restore for my children. The wheels are pretty rusted as well as the rest of the bike. It is also missing the pedals. Any ideas as to how I can get the rust off with out further damaging the tricycle?
Posted on: 10-12-2007 by Everett

I forgot to mention that you could always use sandpaper starting with a coarse grit and finishing with a finer grit (to remove scrathes. That process might become pretty tedious but should work fairly well.

Electrolysis would be much less tedious once you have everything set up properly. You should have a nice shiney part within and hour or so. (depending of course on how much rust and-or paint needs to be removed) What I like best about electrolysis is that your original material isn~t removed like it could be when using abrasives. Best Regards
Posted on: 10-12-2007 by Everett

I forgot to mention that you could always use sandpaper starting with a coarse grit and finishing with a finer grit (to remove scrathes. That process might become pretty tedious but should work fairly well.

Electrolysis would be much less tedious once you have everything set up properly. You should have a nice shiney part within and hour or so. (depending of course on how much rust and-or paint needs to be removed)What I like best about electrolysis is that your original material isn~t removed like it could be when using abrasives. Best Regards
Posted on: 10-12-2007 by Everett
There are several ways to remove rust. A wire brush can remove rust but will possibly leave scrathes. When I was a young man I used a product called Naval Jelly to remove light surface rust from my chrome wheels and bumpers on my old hotrods. It worked ok for light rust but left a bit to be desired on heavier rust. There is also a process that can be used that~s very efficient and not all that hard to do but it~s more involved than just brushing and rubbing. You will need a plastic tub a battery charger and some sacrificial steel. (re-bar will work for that and can be bought in short sections from lowes or home depot.

You can do a google search on electrolysis + rust removal or rust removal by electrolysis and that should bring up some pages revealing detailed instructions and examples. Read as much as you can about it and follow all safety guidelines. Be sure to perform the procedure in a well vented area (like outdoors) and be aware that the bubbles that will rise up from your workpiece will have tiny amounts of hydrogen in them.

Electrolysis can be very effective and you will lose little to none of your original material provided you do it properly. You will need to remove the tires from the wheels. You should only be working with metal parts and not leave any plastic or rubber parts attached to the metal part that you wish to clean.

The process really isn~t that complicated. You just have to be sure that you hook your wires up correctly (if not then your work piece will become the sacrificial metal)

There are quite a few articles online that explain the process in detail. Some have pictures. Google it and read it carefully. Good luck.
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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC Vintage Columbia Parts?
« Reply #324 on: November 09, 2011, 09:09:59 am »
Posted on: 9-29-2007 by Charles
I have a Columbia 3 Star DeLuxe that I am working on and hoping to get it restored soon.  I need some parts such as the rear rack (carrier) and the fender headlight.  I have the original chainguard but it is in poor condition so I would love to replace it as well.  I am unsure of the year but have been told it is a late 40~s era bicycle.  I need to get the serial number from the bike and reference the year to be positive.  Any help with a source for the parts would be much appreciated!  Reproductions are fine if available.
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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC Installing handgrips
« Reply #325 on: November 09, 2011, 09:09:59 am »
Posted on: 10-12-2007 by Rolf Hargis
I have a 68 Raleigh 3-speed roadster. Just installed a new trigger shifter cable and spindle. Managed this OK but I am now stuck on putting on new handgrips. They are too sticky to slide on all the way and I don~t want to use any type of lube because of course I want them to stay in place and not slide once installed.

Any tips on pushing on new handgrips while ensuring that once they are on they don~t move?

Thanks
Rolf.

Posted on: 10-13-2007 by Jeff R
Use rubbing alcohol.
Posted on: 10-16-2007 by wayne
To install grips put a little plain water on the grip and handlebar and slip the grip on all in one smooth movement. Do not ride the bicycle until the water has dried and the grip is tight. If the grip is stubborn you can blow compressed air at the edge of the grip and the air will flow between the grip and the handlebar acting as a lubricant. If compressed air is not available you can bang on the end of the grip with a soft hammer. Synonym Grips.

- http--www.bikewebsite.com-bikeoh.htm

I concur also with alcohol as stated and possibly a little soap is used sometimes too. Just listing options.


As for the quote about using a soft hammer if I did such I might cover the grip with a towel or other cloth and gently go at it.

Posted on: 3-10-2008 by j
hi i have always used hairspray yes hairspray.   there is a use for that Aqua Net stuff afterall.  here is how i went about it in the past.

spray the inside of the grip to moisten the inside wals.  use a finger to ensure the spray has coated all sides of the rubber grip.  push on the handlebars while wet.  let dry.  when the hairspray dries it dries tacky which will give your grips just enough grip so that they do not spin while riding.  and you will be able to get them off later on too so its not a super strong bond.

with a wet rag you can clean an excess hairspray.

have fun j
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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC Reader~s Rides!
« Reply #326 on: November 09, 2011, 09:09:59 am »
Posted on: 10-18-2007 by Vin - Menotomy Vintage Bicycles

We~ve brought back the Reader~s Rides section of OldRoads.com.

If you offer a service or have bikes parts ads literature
accessories books auction items or anything else related to
Vintage Bicycles for sale or if you just want to show off your
cycles click on "Readers Rides" at the top right of any page
of our site and build your own web site.

It is free and you get 5 megabytes of web space and your own unique
address.

Vin - Menotomy Vintage Bicycles
http--OldRoads.com

Posted on: 10-20-2007 by Vin

Based on your feedback we have set it up so you can have 25 pictures and almost unlimited text.

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RESTORATION TIPS - MISC what is it
« Reply #327 on: November 09, 2011, 09:09:59 am »
Posted on: 11-5-2007 by Dion
Ihave a JC higgins.and can~t find it anywhereit has white wall tiresblueish green in color with a built in headlight.can you tell me anything about it?
Posted on: 11-6-2007 by DION
I think i may have a match with the 1964-69 spacelinerbut i~m not sure.any suggestion~s on how to verify.
Posted on: 11-6-2007 by DION
TY SKIPbut i~m still haveing trouble finding this bike.I know it~s a girls bike.I can~t find any markings besides JC HIGGINS.I did find #~s on the tires SEARS ALLSTATE safety tred 26x1.7 #50205.I~m pretty computer illiterate~so i don~t have much of an idea what i~m doing.Any help would be very appreciated.Thank you for your reply.DION
Posted on: 11-6-2007 by Skip
Search the archives here on OldRoads (use the black Google box above).
You~ll find volumes of information pictures and pricing on JC Higgins cycles.
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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT New Coat-o-Paint
« Reply #328 on: November 09, 2011, 09:09:59 am »
Posted on: 11-6-2007 by John
I~ve learned from the discussion board that repainting an original scheme is definetly taboo.  Work with what you have it~s only original once...I get it.  My newest project a ~37 roadmaster deluxe does not have an original paintjob.  It looks as if the previous would-be-reviver of this work of art kept very much in the style of the original scheme (beautiful hand painted accents- pinstripes) except for one very crucial factor his color matching ability was greatly lacking.  What should be a luscious verdant green accented by mellow cream is a foppish seafoam on teal (gag).  It looks like he visited a hobby shop for the paint...or even home depot.  Truth be told I~m just as clueless with regard to where to get high quality paint meant for this kind of restoration.  Any ideas?  I imagine it will be harder than color matching through NAPA auto parts.  Thankfully though the ugly paint from the previous restoration(s) was incredibly easy to remove and the elegant steel frame is now a brilliant near-mirror finish.  Where do I go from here?
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RESTORATION TIPS - PAINT What kind of paint to use?
« Reply #329 on: November 09, 2011, 09:09:59 am »
Posted on: 11-12-2007 by tanya
I am clueless with regard to where to get high quality paint for the restoration of my Monark Super Deluxe girls bicycle. I am also looking for a set of stencils to put the pinstriping on. This is going to my motherinlaw for Christmas so any help asap will greatly appreciated!!

Thank you
Tanya
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