I just picked up a Schwinn Typhoon, and judging by the numbers, it's from May '70. It seems to "slip out of gear" occasionally...is there a good way to clean the hub? I don't want to disassemble something that's a complete nightmare to get back together...I'm also looking for the rear fender braces, or a new fender altogether...are these often on ebay or anything? Thanks for any help!
| OK, I disassembled and cleaned the hub and it works nice now...plus, I just took the fenders off for now. The kickstand hangs a little low when it's up--any ways to tighten it up in there? |
| the Schwinn kickstand works better when it's cleaned and lubed-|
and sometimes the retaining pin gets worn enough that the spring doesn't hold the stand tight in the detents.
in my experience however, some of them just line up a little low.
| Thank you!|
| i bought a house and this bike was in the garage. the local bike shop told me its a pre war shelby and the best way to identify it was by the split (like a y) in the frame before the seat. if anyone has info on shelbys or can help me out in anyway it would make my day|
| Google Shelby Bicycles and you'll find quite a bit of info. Don't forget to also use the images section as well. I have a prewar model that I think is a model 30 obtained from the family of the original owner that was unfortunately "modernized" in the 70's by removing the original stand, battery holder for the horn/light combo, and installing a Wald chainguard. I also have Oglaend's bicyle catalog that I think is prewar that has Shelby Bicycle images but they are so small (2 3/4 x 1 1/2") it's impossible to see any detail. john |
| thanks for the reply man I've tried various yahoo searches, but not google. mine is i believe called a Rex? its all original parts although it was painted with 1960s bright orange paint|
| here are tons of pictures|
let us know if you find a comparable
| Josh: Mine was painted a "nice 1970's orange." I carefully stripped the top layer and there was enough of the original paint left to determine orginal colors and pinstripping location. I redid the mechanicals and with a repaint it was reborn. I use a big Wald Newsboy basket with my 15 pound dog along for the ride and it's a lot of fun on a nice summer day. Never fails to attract attention on the local rail trail, especially when I tell them its (the bike) almost 70 years old. Bikes were meant to ride so get busy on yours and have fun with it! |
| i found no comparable, mine definetly noseless and therefore one of the cheaper models |
| I just bought a 24'' 1954 ladies Spitfire, in pretty decent condition. I live in the DC area and am using it to commute to and from school/work-- I love the old Schwinns, and I consider mountain bikes to be too tacky nowadays. Although I'm not gonna use it for showing, I would like to restore it as best as possible-- I know that I need to do some brake work on her, because it takes her a good 10 feet to start slowing down, and I would like to do some more aesthetic work as well. Is there any book that could guide me through the restorations process fairly well? Even an online guide would be awesome.|
Also, I was just wondering what people know about this type of bike? In looking through images on this site, I see only men's Spitfires. Is the women's version not very common?
Thank you, in advance, for all of your help!
| You might want to visit the forums at the Schwinn website. There is one specificly for restorations. www.schwinnbikes.com/heritage|
| Maintenance is well worth doing even if you don't decide on restoration. Complete info on coaster brake service is posted on the park tool site:|
You have to select Hub Service under the Region menu, and you'll find coaster brakes there (they don't file them under brakes...)
a printed manual is useful too, and you don't need a new one ;) so you might find one in a used book or library sale. If this isn't your cup of tea, get the coaster hub looked at at your shop. It can be made good as new.
| The Firestone Pilot I recently acquired is in pretty rough shape- hardly a trace of paint on the thing. It has a long extended tank, a rack on the back, and a speedometer/odometer. (976 miles on it!)|
Nameplate on front is in pretty good condition. A few who have seen photos believe it to be around 1935, which is older than I am able to find info about on this site. It is supposedly a pretty rare bike. Anyone care to offer input or make an offer?
| HOPE SOMEONE CAN HELP ON THIS.MY SISTER BOUGHT 3 HAMPTON CRUISERS.SHE SPENT OVER $1,100.00 FOR THE BIKES LAST YEAR.THE SPOKES ON ALL THREE BIKES ARE BREAKING ON FRT. AND BACK WHEELS.SHE WENT BACK TO THE BIKE SHOP WERE SHE BOUGHT THEN AND AS THE BIKES WERE STANDING THERE ONE SPOKE SNAPED.THE SHOP SAYS THERE IS NOTHING HE CAN DO BUT REPLACE ALL 6 WHEELS AT HER EXPENSE.HAS ANYONE OUT THERE HAD THIS PROBLEM?|
| I've had the problem with bad wheels, but not with bad bike shop. The seller should stand behind the product. If they agree the wheels should be replaced, as does sometimes happen with cheap machine-built wheels, they should also agree they're their responsibility. I'd expect them to install a new spoke every time one broke. Remind them that correctly assembled wheels last a really long time.|
Does your community have a chamber of commerce or better business bureau?