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Archived: Old School BMX

WANTED:   Hutch Pro Star posted by: chris rudd on 7/19/2001 at 5:22:29 PM
Looking for original parts to restore Hutch pro star.I have F/F and bars need everything eles.If you have any parts or know someone who does i'd like to talk to you.Top dollar paid.Thanks

FOR SALE:   NOS Dia Compe MX Two Finger Lever Old School posted by: Jim on 7/19/2001 at 4:39:28 PM
For sale NOS Dia Compe MX Two Finger Lever. Red Anodized. Old School. $20 shipped View it at http://bikeyard.home.mindspring.com/mx

FOR SALE:   dyno and gt posted by: George Stage on 7/19/2001 at 9:00:27 AM
I have a dyno compe (newer 92-96?) and an older gt pro performer. The pro performer is chrome with pink and blue decals,micro sized pegs. its missing the rear brake pads. the Dyno is like new, black with green splatter paint, still has all reflectors lol . was askin $50 for the dyno and around $100 for the pro performer but i want to sell them more than make money off of them so i am open to any offers. or would trade for mid 80s haros (zippos, sports, fsx's etc) thanks for the read

AGE / VALUE:   Hutch frames posted by: mike kopish on 7/19/2001 at 6:38:30 AM
I was wondering if anyone could tell me how I can tell the difference between hutch pro frames.Is there a difference between the pro star frame and the pro racer or the pro raider frame?Thanks.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Hutch frames posted by Old Pro on 7/19/2001 at 9:46:17 AM
Hey there,
I can help you a bit with your question. The Pro Racer and the
Prostar have the exact same Frame and Fork. The difference was the
components the two were equipped with. The Pro Star had the high end
Hutch magnesium hubs and all the latest trick stuff of the day. But the
frames are both the same length. As for the Pro Raider, that frame may
be a bit shorter I am not sure. The Pro Raider was imported and is
really worthless.
Good luck,

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Hutch frames posted by kevin on 7/23/2001 at 2:22:32 PM
How can you tell if the frames were made in the U.S.or made over seas?

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Hutch frames posted by Old Pro on 7/26/2001 at 4:04:03 AM
There are a couple things to look at. Check the bottonm bracket.
If there is a little base ball like symbol in front of the serial number,
that would indicate off shore. The forks on the imported Hutch bikes had the
bottoms swaged and staked on rather than a nice quality weld.
Also if the frame has holes drilled in the bottom side of the chain stays that would indicate
an off shore Hutch.

MISC:   Rob From Mass. posted by: Greg on 7/18/2001 at 6:49:13 PM
Rob, please contact me , your E mail is not working!???

MISC:   Mongoose and BMX Products Corp posted by: Cal on 7/17/2001 at 7:00:32 AM
I've seen Mongoose BMX at K-Mart and they aren't made in USA.

I've seen Mongoose BMX made by BMX Products Corp in Chatsworth, CA, USA and another city in CA.

Can someone explain the differences?

What years were they made in these different places?


   RE:MISC:   Mongoose and BMX Products Corp posted by greg on 7/22/2001 at 10:43:27 PM
import, new school (cheap and heavy,good boat anchor.)
usa, old school (started in L.A.,part of the begining of BMX.)

FOR SALE:   redline posted by: mike on 7/15/2001 at 11:16:27 PM
i found this chrome frame with really crappy decals. i believe it to be a redline 500a but its hard to tell. the only decals left are partials on the seatmast. the frame is chrome and in real good shape though. is anyone out there interested in this frame?

WANTED:   Ross Snapper posted by: Mike on 7/15/2001 at 4:51:55 PM
Does anyone have a Ross Snapper kicking around in this world? I could only dream of Hutch, Kuwahara etc. when I was a kid, so I could only rely on my old Snapper. I just never see any around. Mine was blue with yellow "Tuff" wheels.

AGE / VALUE:   Rare NOS Hutch HPV Dan Hannebrink designed bike posted by: GS on 7/13/2001 at 8:31:17 AM
This is the super rare Hutch HPV bike designed by
Gravity bike and mountain bike genius Dan Hannebrink.

Looks like a mini cafe racer with full fairings, custom
62 tooth sprocket, custom Hutch tires, and more. Has tag that says it was designed
after the "World's fastest bike"
Amazing bike and already is a super rare collectible.
Best offer or trade.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Rare NOS Hutch HPV Dan Hannebrink designed bike posted by Bill on 7/23/2001 at 7:09:43 PM
The Hutch HPV is actually an overseas made piece of crap bike with pieces of crap cheap Hutch parts. Sad but true, your bike is actually worth very little.


   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Rare NOS Hutch HPV Dan Hannebrink designed bike posted by Mike on 7/23/2001 at 9:23:59 PM
It may have been made overseas, or have Hutch parts on it, but I would say it is worth more than very little. Put it up on Ebay and if it's still half decent, someone is going to buy it with a quickness.
I could see ripping on someone that was claiming the bike was something it wasn't. Well, actually the worlds fastest bike is kinda funny.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Rare NOS Hutch HPV Dan Hannebrink designed bike posted by Thomas on 8/23/2001 at 4:14:15 PM
This same bike is on ebay...600 dollars.

AGE / VALUE:   Schwiin Predator posted by: Elvis on 7/12/2001 at 7:31:06 AM
Hi! A friend of mine has had an old chrome Schwinn Predator for years, I think since the bike first came out. A while ago I restored it for him and now he doesn't use it I was thinking about buying it. What's a fair offer for the bike? He didn't take care fo it after I fixed it if I recall it has two flat tires and some rust spots.

WANTED:   zeronine f/f or complete bike 20'or 24' posted by: scott house on 7/10/2001 at 3:32:24 PM
looking for a zeronine 20' or 24' complete or frme and fork anyone with info please email me thanks. 7/10/01

   RE:WANTED:   zeronine f/f or complete bike 20'or 24' posted by scott house on 7/10/2001 at 3:47:28 PM
guess you would need my email sahouse01@msn.com

WANTED:   Bob Haro replica Vector Bars posted by: Eric on 7/10/2001 at 1:49:17 PM
Anyone have a pair of Vector bars they want to sell? Any help appreciated, thanks.

MISC:   seat post removal - help posted by: Jason on 7/9/2001 at 8:48:12 PM
I have a seat post that was put into my Trick Star sometime in 84. It's still in there and it's rusted in good. I really need to get it out. The top half snapped off when I put it in a table vise and tried to twist it out. Someone in my area said he could drill it out. I have no idea what he meant by that. Does anyone know what he means by "drilling it out"? It doesn't sound good to me but he seemed certain that it would come out no matter how bad it was rusted in. Sounds scary to me. I don't want to damage the frame. Anyone heard of doing this to get a seat post out?

   RE:MISC:   seat post removal - help posted by none on 7/9/2001 at 10:52:38 PM
I had the same problem, here is the only thing you can do take a monkey wrench and grab onto the remaining part of the post and twist it out. I did it to an old crusty DeCoster frame when it seemed like it was a total loss.

   RE:MISC:   seat post removal - help posted by mike on 7/9/2001 at 11:04:26 PM
try heating up the seatmast with a low-temp oxy-acetaline torch, (to loosen the rust inside), then put whats left of the seat post back in the vise and twist the frame, this should work if your patient. i had to do this a couple of times and it works rather well as long as you plan on recoating the frame.

   RE:MISC:   seat post removal - help posted by CHRIS.P.C. on 7/11/2001 at 3:17:00 PM
you'll need to heat up the area of the frame that the post is in. Then twist the post with a large pipe wrench. The longer the handle the better to get you as much leverage you
can. I just did an old redline frame that had a post stuck in it and was able to turn the post, but was unable to get it out. I finally drilled a hole through the post and put a large punch through the hole and then pounded the death out of it and got it out without damaging the frame. I tried to get it out by pounding on a vice grips, but it kept falling off. Also, grease the new post and clean the inside of the frame when you put in the new one. Good luck!

   RE:RE:MISC:   seat post removal - help posted by Jason on 7/13/2001 at 1:39:07 PM
I was told to put dry ice in the seat post and heat up the seat tube with a butane torch while it's in a strong table vise and then twist it out. This will of course mark up the seat tube on the frame but I can cover it with stickers anyway. Anyone else heard of this method? And don't I need to be careful handling dry ice? Seems like I remember hearing that you're not supposed to touch dry ice or something like that. I feel crazy taking a torch to the frame but what the hell, the way it is now I can't ride it anyway.

   RE:MISC:   seat post removal - help posted by Steven on 8/25/2001 at 10:00:29 AM
I bought a De Rosa racing bike, whose previous owner, a pro racer, had crazy-glued the titanium Campagnolo seatpost into place. This is a bike that retails for about $5K, so I wanted to get the post out without any damage. I tried all of the solutions above except the dry ice which I deemed unpractical. I ended up taking a dremmel (an oversized dentist's drill) and drilling it out slowly but surely. The bike frame still perfect without any damage.

WANTED:   Hutch GPV posted by: Mike Deford on 7/9/2001 at 11:49:43 AM
Back in the late 80's Hutch released a complete bike called the GPV or Gravity Powered Vehicle. It was for downhill racing it was pink and had sport bike looking fairings.
I had one stollen in 90 and want to find another one BAD! Top dollar paid. If you can help or have any leads for me, email me please.

   RE:WANTED:   Hutch GPV posted by mike on 7/9/2001 at 11:09:16 PM
i remember the HUTCH HPV SUPERBIKE (`88 i think) white with ferrings an all. say one on ebay some time ago, went for a pretty penny though. dont remember a GPV though, sorry.

WANTED:   Trickstar F/F wanted posted by: Jeff on 7/8/2001 at 2:53:48 PM
I'm looking for a Hutch Trickstar frame/fork. Color doesn't matter. Looking to restore it since a little punk stole mine 10 years ago.

   RE:WANTED:   Trickstar F/F wanted posted by T-bone on 7/22/2001 at 7:14:04 PM
I have a hutch trickstar frame and fork that I'm prepared to sell.