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If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.
If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.
Archived: English Roadsters
FOR SALE: NOS Mudguard Braces plus 2 NOS Chainguards
posted by: Jim
on 10/17/2000 at 4:17:51 AM
| Adding a couple of NOS Chainguard to the pile. Both are black with gold pinstripe. Both are mfg by Crown for English bikes. For sale NOS 26" mudguard braces mfg by DP Harris for import bicycles. Great for you Raleigh restoration. 5 pairs in the package. $30 shipped
photos can be seen at http://bikeyard.home.mindspring.com/mudguard
http://bikeyard.home.mindspring.com/chainguard |
ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Good websites??
posted by: Raleigh Newbie
on 10/17/2000 at 3:50:18 AM
| Are there any other websites out there with information on English bikes? I found some stuff here, on Sheldon Brown's site, and a lot of Chopper sites. I'm looking for some more roadster info. Thanxxx! |
RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Good websites??
posted by Bob on 10/22/2000 at 3:28:21 AM
| Try Retro Raleighs web site. It's included in Sheldon Brown's bike sites list. Great, great site for Raleigh enthusiasts. Good luck. |
WANTED: Benelux cogs
posted by: JimB
on 10/16/2000 at 8:55:50 AM
| Going back to Jim from Bikeyard's post of 10/10, I have long been intrigued by the hybrid epicylic / derailleur arrangements. I have a Triumph "Tenerife" that came to me w/o a wheelset & has a Huret Allvit derailleur & shifter. Droputs are clearly for an SA hub. All of my older brothers and cousins (now in their 50's) bought three speed cogsets, derailleurs & shifters as a "kit", when they were in their teens, to convert their various three speed Raleigh products to nine speeds. Any info or leads on cogsets etc., will be appreciated. I have have a few English lightweights that I'd like to sell or trade. Getting close to putting a car in my garage again... |
RE:WANTED: Benelux cogs
posted by Tom "Mad Cow" Faust on 10/16/2000 at 9:28:16 PM
| I would like to know more about this. I have attacked the problem from the other end. I have a Dawes Galaxy with a Sachs 7 speed hub and a Nervar double chain ring (52-40). This produces 14 forward speeds. I also have a yard sale Puch with a Sachs 3 X 7, I retained the double front chain ring. The resulting 42 speeds are clearly overkill. However, as Sir Edmund Hillary said about his ascent of Everest "It was there". |
RE:RE:WANTED: Benelux cogs
posted by WIngs on 10/16/2000 at 10:43:42 PM
| Mad Cow:
I have a couple of 3x7 Sachs hubs and love them because I am on 20inch wheel bikes. Why don't you do away with one chainring on the Puch and just run one chainring (correct size for gear inches need in your area)? It woulc eliminate front derailer, cable, and a ring and make life easier.
I started off with three chain rings in April and now on the same rides only need the middle one. I use the middle one for everything through correct gear inch planning. you can also make that 3x7 into a 3x8 with a little work.
|
RE:WANTED: Benelux cogs
posted by Mike Bamford on 10/18/2000 at 1:35:08 AM
| JimB
Most of the Cyclo Benelux three speed units I have managed
to get my hands on have been utterly worn out. I've only
bought them to dismantle for pawls/springs(hoping there would be at least one serviceable part). The wear on some
of the cog teeth has to be seen to be believed - the worst
examples being the 20 and 21 tooth. This seems to back up the current topic above regarding "most popular gear".
One problem I found with the freewheel bodies was that some
(Atom if I remember correctly) had a raised boss on the hub
side which means more space is required to accomodate unit
within dropouts. There is a cycle jumble coming up soon(11/11/00) so I will ask some of the luminaries present if
they can recall more details of production models on sale
at the time or was the "conversion kit", you refer to, the
more normal option. I must admit that the only one I've seen
to date is on my own Raleigh Sports(1951)which I bought
earlier this year. It is obviously a later "home fit" upgrade but how much later, I wouldn't know. The drive side
frame dropout has been modified by filing a "round register"
1/2 way along dropout. The barrel nut has had a "round" shoulder cut into the hexagon portion which both clamps the
changer against dropout and registers in the modified hole
filed in the dropout. I cannot see any purpose for this at the moment but maybe when I get it all together and ride the bike then its purpose will be clearer. I suspect that
the mod is to stop the axle being pulled forward in use
because of the clamping efficiency being reduced due to
the introduction of the rear mech mount.
Regards
Mike |
ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Too loose LaTrec
posted by: Fred
on 10/16/2000 at 8:18:38 AM
| The weather turned nice here in upstate NY after a period of cool temps and rain. The trees were in glorious color, so we decided to haul a couple of bikes down to the flats of our village and ride all the streets. My ride was a pristeen, green Sports, my wife rode the CCM Elan' that I restored in 1997. This was the first time I had ridden more than a few blocks on the Sports though I have owned it since last year. The CCM had not been ridden except to test it after restoration. Both bicycles performed flawlessly. After riding several miles we stopped at the ice cream parlor for huge double dipper cones which we took to the town square gazebo to eat. As we left the square to return to the van to load up, my front tire blew out with a resounding bang. Thinking the worst since the tire was partly off the rim, I pushed it the few blocks to where the van was parked. After unloading the bikes at home I examined the tire and found that it had come off the rim on one side causing the tube to expand freely and burst. I was greatly relieved to find the tire intact since they are the original Raleigh N.L.T tires. I have had experience with this kind of failure before with Schwinn tires, and yes, I am aware of the different types of Schwiwnn rims and tires. It seems some tires are just loose on the rim while others can be extremely tight. In this case I was able to mount the tire using my hands with virtually no effort. On re-inflation the tire was difficult to center on the rim because of the looseness. I finally managed to center the tire with minimum hop or runout but wonder if it will remain centered. If not it will probably blow again. In spite of the tire problem the ride was very enjoyable.
|
RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Too loose LaTrec
posted by Wings on 10/16/2000 at 10:51:14 PM
| I had that happen.
I had worked on a mountain bike and had trouble getting the tire to seat--it seemed a little lose. On my test ride it felt strange, I heard a rubbing sound, and saw the tube coming out. Before I could let air out it blew. I put on a different brand of tire and it fit like a glove. I have never had this happen with Schwinns. The tires I put on seem too tight and I have to wax the rim in order for them to pop in place.
I had a bad batch of tubes once and I had two blow out on the same bike--each time before I took it out of the stand to road test it. And yes it blew a hole right through the new tire! |
RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Too loose LaTrec
posted by Keith on 10/17/2000 at 9:45:14 AM
| Once when I was working at a bike shop a young couple came in who did not speak a word of English. They brought in a bike, and pointed to the flat tire. My first instinct was to pump it up to see if it just needed air, and I did so. It looked fine, and seated, but about five minutes later the tire began to grow on one side -- in slow motion the inner tube crept out, and before I could let the air out -- BANG!!! The poor lady about hit the ceiling. I replaced the tube free, and they bought a tire, and I sent them home, in a state of shock from the explosion. It was a very cheap tire -- I've seen this happen to very old tires that have probably been stored badly, and cheap tires, even when seated properly. |
RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Too loose LaTrec
posted by Paul on 10/17/2000 at 3:32:05 PM
| I had a tire blow on a newly inflated ballooner and it alomost blew out my eardrum(figuratively) the explosion was so loud...probably from overinflation of a cheap Chinese thin tube, but it blew the tire right off the bike...what would have happened to me if this happened to me while riding it! Any experiences to share? The thorn proof tubes must be better. Oh, and I once had one of those self sealing tires split where the rim meets the valve and it sprayed blue goo everywhere from the air coming out! |
RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Too loose LaTrec
posted by Oscar on 10/17/2000 at 6:41:22 PM
| I think thorn-proof tires are heavy. You can really tell the difference in the ride. And, I have punctured a thorn-proof. You can do anything that you set your mind to. |
RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Too loose LaTrec
posted by Fred on 10/18/2000 at 5:51:53 AM
| I know a little about Schwinn rims and tires butl learned the hard way until I discovered Sheldon Brown's site. 4 years ago I was mounted new T & T's on a friends 10 speed. I had told him to go to the Schwinn store and get real Schwinn tires not the ordinary 26 x 1 3/8ths that most bikes use. I don't know if he bought the right tires or not but when I inflated them the first one blew out and scared the bejabbers out of my neighbors in our mobile home park in FL. I still get kidded about that episode. What I discovered was that the tire did not center because it was a bit loose on the rim. I carefully inflated them with a handpump after that making sure they were well centered. I subsequently bought and sold the bike and the tires are still on the rims. I did finally learn that up to a certain year, Schwinn rims and tires were different and then they adopted a more universal design. Earlier this year I mounted the correct tires on a pair of Schwinns and found that they were very tight and hard to mount as well as to center. With diligence and soapy water I prevailed and the tires are performing well. I mount a lot of tires each season in FL and find a great variation in rim fit between brands. Some mount without tools and some take a lot of effort. Practice, practice, practise, and keep your tires centered on the rim or something might go Bang. |
RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Too loose LaTrec
posted by Mark R. on 10/20/2000 at 3:21:38 PM
| I had a re-occuring daymare a few years ago concerning tyres blowing off the rim: Three days in a row I rode my racing bike to a friends house for our usual 40 mile ride, about two miles out just as we were passing under an over pass BOOM! the front tyre blows right off rim, destroying the tube. I fix it, and off we go. The very next day, same exact senario, two miles out, go under the overpass and BOOM! Ditto. The next day as we are repeating our ride I joke about the tyre blowing off as we cycle under the over pass and BOOM! Damn! I fixed the tyre, and had no further problems. There was nothing I was running over, no glass, no nothing. I have been under that overpass a hundred times since with no problems. To this day I have no idea what the heck was going on. |
AGE / VALUE: black raleigh
posted by: steve
on 10/16/2000 at 6:14:54 AM
| i have a raleigh bike.its all black,black fenders with gold tourist decal on the chain guard.it has rods to activate the brakes.the rear brakes are mounted on the lower frame below the kickstand.its a 3 speed.serial#ng8052410 |
RE:AGE / VALUE: black raleigh
posted by ben on 10/18/2000 at 12:52:39 PM
| I looked at sheldon brown's web page http://sheldonbrown.com/raleigh.html on raleigh bike ages but couldn't match up. However, it does suggest checking the rear wheel hub for the age of the gear shifter. |
AGE / VALUE: black raleigh
posted by: steve
on 10/16/2000 at 6:14:54 AM
| i have a raleigh bike.its all black,black fenders with gold tourist decal on the chain guard.it has rods to activate the brakes.the rear brakes are mounted on the lower frame below the kickstand.its a 3 speed |
AGE / VALUE: UNION HOLLAND,SAVOY
posted by: ELECTRIC MAN
on 10/14/2000 at 5:07:05 PM
| bought two bikes today i know nothing about,CAN ANY ONE HELP.THE HEAD TAG SAYS UNION HOLLAND,LOWER FRAM BAR SAYS SAVOY.DARK GREEN WITH WHITE FENDER TIPS.BOTH 3-SPEEDS ID GUESS 50'S VINTAGE.I MENS I WOMENS.BOTH HAVE CLEAR PLASTIC SKIRT GUARDS,THEY HAVE LEATHER OR VINIL CHAIN GUARD COVERS,LIGHTS AND GENERATERS BOTH DIRTY BUT IN REAL GOOD CONDITION.ANY IDEA OF VALUE OR IS ANYONE INTERESTED IN BUYING THEM,MAKE AN OFFER MIKE |
RE:AGE / VALUE: UNION HOLLAND,SAVOY
posted by Warren on 10/14/2000 at 6:26:34 PM
| They're a long running line in Holland...pretty sure you can still buy them. If the hubs are Sturmey you should have a date stamp on them. They may looks fifties but they could be much more recent. Retro never really happened in Holland...all of their bikes are traditional in design. Even if they are newer that doesn't mean they're worth less. A newish three speed or roadster can cost over a thousand guilders...I think that's about six bills US. Nice bikes. |
FOR SALE: NOS Mudguard braces
posted by: Jim
on 10/13/2000 at 8:15:37 PM
| For sale NOS 26" mudguard braces mfg by DP Harris for import bicycles. Great for you Raleigh restoration. 5 pairs in the package. $30 shipped
photo can be seen at http://bikeyard.home.mindspring.com/mudguard |
WANTED: looking for Superbe
posted by: Bruce
on 10/13/2000 at 5:49:23 PM
| I am looking to purchase a dl.1 in good working condition,with accessories etc. I need whatever size fits me,I'm 6'2" with 33"inseam. I have a triumph and a robin hood but they are really too small for me. I can't seem to enjoy any of these "modern" bikes. respond before wife changes her mind please. thanks Bruce |
ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Trade 20" Muscle Bike Stuff for English Roadster?
posted by: Wendell
on 10/13/2000 at 12:28:29 PM
| I have a nice selection of 20" NOS off brand muscle bike parts to trade for a nice english roadster. NOS Seats, Slick, Wheel sets, Streamers, Speedos. If anyone is interested of getting rid of a decent Raleigh or other English and want to get into the 20" stuff lets talk! Please e-mail with offers. Thanks!!!!!!! |
AGE / VALUE: Raleigh folder
posted by: Dave
on 10/13/2000 at 5:58:08 AM
| Last night I got a Raleigh folder ... I had assumed it was a Raleigh 20, but
the sales brochure (also included were assembly instructions and even the sales receipt)
says it's an RSW 16. Can someone enumerate the differences? This bike is the
standard Raleigh green, has white grips, tires and pedals, the hub
is a SA AW from 1966. It has a funky carrier bin on the back rack made
of wood covered with fabric.
|
RE:AGE / VALUE: Raleigh folder
posted by Keith on 10/13/2000 at 10:21:13 AM
| The RSW has 16" wheels. Twenty has 20." |
RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Raleigh folder
posted by ChristopherRobin on 10/14/2000 at 9:55:45 AM
| The Raleigh R.S.W. 16 (Raleigh Small wheels, 16 inch) was made in a folding and a non- folding version. The Raleigh Folder 20 inch (shopper bike) folded in half sideways, and the R.S.W. 16 folded diffrently than the 20 inch wheel "Raleigh Twenty" model. The 20 inch wheel "Raleigh Twenty" can be hopped up as Sheldon has shown us. Where as the R.S.W.16 is pretty much limited to being stock forever. Both are fun and worth having. These bikes were brought out by Raleigh after they saw it was a mistake to have rejected the Moulton bike after it was offered to them. Moulton decided to make them on his own and they were the main attraction at the 1962 Earls Court show. Moultons took England by storm, so Raleigh jumped into the game only without suspension systems. The 16 X 2 White Dunlop Balloon tires took up some of the bumps. The R.S.W.16 is too heavy to go very far,but the Moulton was up to touring duty with the four speed hub and lighter weight and a better design. There are a lot of diffrent folding bikes out there and The Folding Society is on the web and Moulton is still around, offering incredible new bikes. Check out the Alex Moulton web site! Sheldon Brown has a Raleigh Twenty page on his huge, informative bicycle web site. You can modify your Raleigh Twenty like he has done.There is Birdy, Brompton, e.t.c.Good luck! |
AGE / VALUE: raleigh
posted by: Eugene
on 10/12/2000 at 1:55:42 PM
| i was wondering, does anyone know what the OLD RALEIGHS with those metal bar (not wire) brakes and the in-wheel gear shifts go for, in good condition. |
RE:AGE / VALUE: raleigh
posted by Kevin C. on 10/12/2000 at 4:18:08 PM
| It could be a $55 bike or a $500 bike, depending on a lot of factors. For instance: men's or women's frame? Wheel size? Is it missing any parts? What is the overall condition? Do the brakes and gears work well? Does it have a full-cover chainguard or rear rack? What is the date stamped on the hub? What kind of saddle does it have? What is its condition? |
AGE / VALUE: 1973 raliegh Bobby bicycle
posted by: greg
on 10/12/2000 at 8:26:42 AM
| I have a chance to buy a very cool 73 raliegh that was made in nottingham, that apparantly was used by the British bobby's. It has 28" wheels
original pump, chainguard, and a nice italian saddle (obviously not
original). wicked fork rake and seat tube angle. get this,
the seatstays are replaceable! they bolt-on at the seat cluster and at
the dropout. it has a sturmey archer 3 speed rear hub stamped with date
of production 12/73. the brake are very cool, the "rod type".
any knowledge of this bike or value?
thanks! |
RE:AGE / VALUE: 1973 raliegh Bobby bicycle
posted by Grant on 10/12/2000 at 11:55:46 AM
| Sounds like a Raleigh DL 1 model. These were indeed used by
English bobbies as well as postmen. They are considered the
top Raleigh roadster model. There are a lot of people who follow
this board, who like them very much for commuting, town and
city use. Value of one in good shape, all complete and original,
probably $200 or more. Yours came originally with a Brooks saddle
either a B66 or B72 model. Check out Sheldon Brown's site in
the links list for more info. |
ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Brooks galore! Panic over!
posted by: Mike Q.
on 10/12/2000 at 5:54:12 AM
| Persons has a plentiful supply of the full line of Brooks saddles at old prices, and more on the way. Have to chuckle at what people are paying for these things on Ebay. Wish I had a supply to sell. |
RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Brooks galore! Panic over!
posted by Keith on 10/12/2000 at 8:08:41 AM
| Great news! Is the shop actually up and running? I bought 2 saddles before the news broke -- the nice Rivendell B-15 Deluxe Champions with honey covers and copper plated rails. I bought an extra B-15 at regular price so I'm set for life for road bike saddles. But the B-66 on my commuter DL-1 looks ready to split around several rivits -- maybe I'll squeeze another season out of it -- but I'm glad I'll be able to get another at a fair price. (Or should I go for the B-90/3 for which some of you sing such high praises?). |
RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Brooks galore! Panic over!
posted by ChristopherRobin on 10/15/2000 at 1:10:40 PM
| I would go with the B-90/3 leather with the cool loop spring in the front. Especially if you are commuting on a DL1, this is the saddle! |
AGE / VALUE: raleigh tourist
posted by: steve
on 10/11/2000 at 11:32:25 PM
| iamtrying to date a raleigh bike.its a raleigh tourist serial #ng8052410.any info would be greatly appreciated |
RE:AGE / VALUE: raleigh tourist
posted by Cam on 10/13/2000 at 7:23:05 AM
| Check the date code charts on this site |
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