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Archived: English Roadsters

AGE / VALUE:   Another one for Christopher Robin posted by: Kevin C. on 8/21/2000 at 5:48:10 PM
What did you decide on the women's Humber? Email, please.

AGE / VALUE:   Another one for Christoper Robin posted by: Kevin C. on 8/21/2000 at 5:43:40 PM
Are you interested in the women's Humber? Please email.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Another one for Christoper Robin posted by ChristopherRobin on 8/23/2000 at 8:21:50 AM
This will be re-sprayed in a lovely shade of Robin's egg blue/ lilac

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   For Christopher Robin -- a true story posted by: Keith on 8/21/2000 at 5:39:48 AM
"Oh yeah, my Dad owne a bike shop" Later, "I told my Dad about your interest in English three-speeds. He said to tell you that he has a matching pair -- man's and woman's -- still in the boxes. They are the kind with generators in the front hub. He said he'd sell them to you at a good price." Gasp! (This man apparently built a pole-barn to hold the dozens of bikes he acquired when he owned the bike shop -- Krates, lightweights, balooners, everything, all new.) I will send my offer this weekend and my neighbor may even haul them back for me.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   For Christopher Robin -- a true story posted by phil on 8/21/2000 at 6:10:36 AM
Don't tell me. The next thing that happened was the alarm clock ringing, and you woke up.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   For Christopher Robin -- a true story posted by Keith on 8/21/2000 at 7:33:56 AM
I have indeed had those kinds of dreams. Hard to believe, but this one's real. I wish I'd been there when he sold the Raleigh Professional still in the box (a few years ago, according to his son, my neighbor).

AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Sports Model posted by: matt on 8/20/2000 at 7:38:35 PM
I have a Black, Raliegh Sports Model with an undated Sturmey Archer AW hub (with threaded cog) The bike also has a top tube mounted shifter that is operated by pushing the lever to the right to disengage and then forward or reverse to shift. The Words "The All Steel Bicycle" appear under the tire pump. The Serial Nuber is AF 27324 which according to your charts was built in 1961. But I think it is older than that. Can anyone help with dating this bike?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Sports Model posted by ChristopherRobin on 8/21/2000 at 10:20:15 AM
If this is a threaded driver then it is before 1956. If It has no year on it then I would say 1940's Sounds like a prewar bike and hub. The top tube shifters go for like $25.00 or so. You can change out the driver and the threaded cog that it screws onto for a newer one and use any 3 splined cog you wish. I would leave it alone unless you have problems. Get a plastic container of Singer sewing machine oil from a fabric shop and keep it oiled. Have fun.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Sports Model posted by matt on 8/21/2000 at 12:50:09 PM
Thank you for your prompt reply, Bike is all originalexcept rear tire. Chain guard is complete also. This bicycle is in museum condition. I am leaving it as it is complete with the bicycle license plate from Springfield Ohio. Was purchased at a Volunteers of America Store in Lancaster Ohio about 17 yrs. ago when didnt have 2 nickels to rub together. Now have 4 kids still dont have 2 nickles.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Sports Model posted by matt on 8/21/2000 at 12:57:20 PM
PSS Just remembered has stamped on hub "patent Applied for"
When was the S A hub patented? There appears to be a zero stamped to the right of where the AW stamp is located. has original shock stop handgrips and seat and all original cables

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Sports Model posted by phil on 8/21/2000 at 4:47:01 PM
The "patent applied for" models were pre-hub dating. I also have one, also with top-tube shifter. I've deduced that it post-war era, but early than 1950. The oldest "dated" hub I've seen is 1951, but have heard of dated 1950s.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Sports Model posted by jeff on 8/22/2000 at 6:59:40 PM
i have a sa-fw 4 speed with a 49 date on it. this is the oldest one that i have seen.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Sports Model posted by Rolf on 8/24/2000 at 4:24:04 AM
I have a March 1948 dated AW series hub

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Sports Model posted by Bill Putnam on 8/25/2000 at 1:55:18 PM

The AW hubs in the 1930's only used the last digit
to identify year.

My 1939 Schwinn 3-speed has an AW hub which is
stamped AW 9. The 0 on your hub I believe would date
it to 1940, as the AW wasn't in production yet in 1930.

Tony Hadland has written an
excellent book on Sturmey-Archer hubs "The Sturmey-
Archer Story" see his web site at http://hadland.net/

See also Sheldon Brown's page on Raleighs
There he describes some of the detail changes that
occurred during the long production of Raleigh Sports.

AGE / VALUE:   Hello, I'm Chris and I just want to look at your bike. posted by: ChristopherRobin on 8/20/2000 at 12:55:08 PM
I jump up and run over and shake hands and introduce myself and get down to get a good look at this bike this guy has and I'm asking a billion questions. Wow this is a great set up, and it works and he is really happy with the old Raleigh that has been upgraded to use new Shimano gears,cotterless cranks, clipless pedals,700 C rims, new seat and a mirror! He's good to go and now I made another bike friend.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Hello, I'm Chris and I just want to look at your bike. posted by ChristopherRobin on 8/20/2000 at 1:03:38 PM
He had nice new Continental tires and it was a quick bike.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Delivery bicycle posted by: Elisabeth on 8/20/2000 at 9:31:29 AM
Is anybody out there interested in purchasing an old English Delivery bike? If so e-mail me and give me an idea of price range, I'll have more details available.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Dismantle S-A AW hub posted by: Leon on 8/20/2000 at 6:25:44 AM
How do I loosen the right hand ball ring on a AW hub? The hub is not on a wheel. I have a tool that fits the notch on the ball ring but haven"t had any luck in turning the ring. Would it be okay to put the flat side of the axle in a vise and then put as much pressure on the ball ring as necessary? Also, there is no play whatsover when I pull the indicator chain. However, it will unscrew. Is there any hope that I can free the chain if I ever manage to get inside the hub. Any and all advice welcome!!

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Dismantle S-A AW hub posted by Fred on 8/21/2000 at 7:33:56 PM
I waited to see if someone with more experience would answer your question, but since they didn't I'll tell you what I know. Don't try to remove the ball ring with the shaft held in a vice. Unless the guts are jammed the housing would just rotate. These rings are not hard to remove but you must hold the housing securely. Thats not easy if the hub is out of the wheel. I've tried to think of a way to hold the housing without damaging it but haven't come up with anything worthwhile except to lace it into a rim. IT often takes a good sharp blow to break the ring free which is hard to accomplish if the housing is not securely held. I clamp the rim between two soft pieces of board in a vice and orient the notches in the ring so I'm striking down with a punch. Good luck.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Dismantle S-A AW hub posted by Wes K on 8/27/2000 at 8:34:56 PM
The most secure way to hold a loose hub still in a vise is to take two pieces
of wood and cut a V notch in each of them and clamp the hub between them in the vise.
That way, there are 4 contact points securing the hub, making it rock stead. Also the
chances of damaging the hubs finish are less. Hope this helps!
Wes K

MISC:   American Roadster - tires posted by: Tom Faust on 8/19/2000 at 6:59:24 PM
RE: Dawes project below, it's those pukey 27 X 1&1/4 tires. Are there any reasonably available larger tires that will fit on these rims? Do I have to go to 700C rims?

   RE:MISC:   American Roadster - tires posted by Keith on 8/21/2000 at 8:34:06 AM
I think the selection and quality of 27" tires is better now tan it was in the 70s. That said, the selection of 700c tires is 100x better than that (rims too). The problem with going to 700c is that is that your current brakes might not reach. For example, I have a Schwinn Pramount P-17 with 27". The brakes are the longest reach good sidepulls available -- gran Compe -- and the back has a drop bolt. To switch to 700c I'd have to go with some old, very long reach Mafacs or something like that. Pop a 700c wheel in and measure for yourself.

   RE:MISC:   American Roadster - tires posted by Keith on 8/21/2000 at 8:35:55 AM
I'm typing too fast -- it's a Paramount P-15.

   RE:MISC:   American Roadster - tires posted by Clyde on 8/22/2000 at 8:13:05 PM
Tom, There were previous discussions about 27 x 1-3/8 "knobbies" available at Schwinn stores. One I have has molded-in Kenda brand name with Schwinn name stenciled on sidewall too. It's noted as a 37-630 rated at 70#. I'd look around for some Michelin HiLite Tour 27 x 1-3/8 (35-630) rated at 85#. They're foldable and great for a touring bike. But I don't know their relative availability.

AGE / VALUE:   english tricycle on ebay posted by: sam on 8/19/2000 at 6:55:11 PM
here is one of those fun things to look at,an english tricycle with a rod brake ebay #413734566 my kids are too old--they think there grown.

MISC:   Shaft Drive Folding Bike posted by: Clyde on 8/19/2000 at 11:25:32 AM
Has anyone heard of a shaft drive folding three speed? SIGNALS mailorder catalogue offers one for $550 plus $50 shipping in its current issue. I was aware of the modern shaft-drive technology for bikes (someone posted a link not too long ago), but the description notes "Sturmey Archer shaft and shifter". The bike's namebrand appears to be "AWIS". Does anyone know if S-A has gone chainless?

   RE:MISC:   Shaft Drive Folding Bike posted by sam on 8/20/2000 at 10:48:30 AM
Clyde,check out Sussex Enterprises Co.Ltd.web site they are the tiwann maker of the chainless system.I think it is at www.sussex.com or do a search on chainless bicycle.

   RE:MISC:   Shaft Drive Folding Bike posted by Fred on 8/22/2000 at 7:29:31 AM
The name is; Amis and you can get the site with this URL; "chainless.com/citybikes.html"

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Super Record posted by: Rod on 8/18/2000 at 8:59:00 PM
I just came accross a 10 speed bicycle with Raleigh's metal logo and decals, but at the bottom of the seat tube it has a decal that reads "Made in Japan". In addition, most of the components on this bicycle are manufactured by: SunTour/ Maeda Industries, Dia Compe, and Minoura--all from Japan. The top tube has the name Super Record on both sides and also at the bottom of the seat tube has a serial number: S1C1094. I always though that all Raleighs were made in England, but this is not the case with this bicycle. Please, I need help in determining the year this bike was made and any other information on the "history" of Raleighs made outside of England.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Super Record posted by Sheldon Brown on 8/19/2000 at 12:22:21 PM
When Raleigh U.K. gave up on the U.S. market in the early '80s, they sold the U.S. rights to the Raleigh name to Huffy. Huffy established a Raleigh division, based, I believe, in Washington. They sold Japanese and, later Taiwanese bikes under the Raleigh name. I believe this arrangement lasted for about seven years.

Now, Raleigh U.S.A. is a division of Derby, which is also the parent company of Raleigh U.K., but there's no real connection betwixt the two companies.

AGE / VALUE:   So how much might it be worth? posted by: Hector on 8/18/2000 at 4:37:03 PM
Well, I suppose this should have been one of the things I asked in my previous question. Karl, thank you for clearifying all those points. Sam indeed the serial number was stamped on the tube as you indicated. It appears to read 1472200. If in fact it is a 63 as the hub indicates and the condition is as good as I believe, how much are some of these beauties worth. It even has the original tires they're just like new.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   So how much might it be worth? posted by sam on 8/19/2000 at 10:14:44 AM
Hector,I got one a few weeks ago at goodwill for $8.99.Had a raleigh bell I think would sell for more than I paid for the bike.Anyway,Christopher Robin put the price between $10 and $150 for a Raliegh Sports.---I like the way it rides,plan to keep mine--sam

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   So how much might it be worth? posted by ChristopherRobin on 8/21/2000 at 10:24:08 AM
These go from being put out at the kerb on trash day to being lovingly kept and not sold ever because they really like the bike. Value depends on age, condition, how many were made, accesories e.t.c. right?

AGE / VALUE:   Today's Odd Find.... posted by: Adam on 8/17/2000 at 9:00:41 PM
I came across and bought something that I've never seen before, a Robin Hood three wheeler. Has a Sturmey Archer three speed, caliper brakes (810's) and all! If I'm seeing the date right on the hub, it looks like '64. I was bummed to find two (less than professional) frame weld repairs under the seat when I got it home, but the price was good.
Now to figure out what a guy who lives in an apartment is going to do with this thing!
Just wanted to tell someone who might think it was a neat find!

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   What have I got?? posted by: Hector on 8/17/2000 at 6:33:21 PM
We have in our garage a beautiful Raleigh Sports with a Sturmey - Archer 3 spd. It is in almost mint condition a beautiful gold/bronze finish. For the life of me I cant' find a serial number. Actually, I'm not sure where to look. The rear hub carries the Sturmey and Archer Boiler plate with the following below: the letters "AW" the number 63 with a five next to it. The grip that works the shifter has the letters "TG" on it. What does all this mean? We really love the bicycle, and I would like to know the year etc. Can someone please help.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   What have I got?? posted by karl on 8/18/2000 at 6:51:54 AM
The "63" on the hub is the year the hub was made, and almost certainly the bike too. The "AW" is the model of the hub (type "A", wide ratio - gears of 3/4, 1, and 4/3).

I would guess "TG" stands for "twist grip". As opposed to the usual "trigger" shifter.

The AW hub is Sturmey's longest-lived model.

Is it a lady's or gent's frame? The serial number may be on the underside of the bottom bracket shell.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   What have I got?? posted by sam on 8/18/2000 at 3:49:29 PM
Try looking on the top tube just in front of the seat for the serial number.

MISC:    posted by: Deb on 8/17/2000 at 2:49:59 PM
After reading through all the pros and cons of rod brakes . . .one is on its way to me--a nice black Raleigh Tourist. Can't wait to ride around the neighborhood in Brooklyn . I promise I won't ride in the rain. However, I do need a bike helmet--ok, so the last time I road a bike, I think they might of existed but nobody used them. Any things I should look for and what should I avoid?

   Helmet posted by Bill on 8/17/2000 at 5:13:29 PM
Deb, Good idea on the helmet. Many people don't seem to wear them on "cruiser" type bikes, but I think they are a good idea. All the mainstream bike helmets, such as Bell, Gyro, Trek, etc. are tested and give good protection. I buy the $30 helmet that fits me the best and has a secure harness to hold it on my head. Its just as safe as the $129 helmet. In the last few years designers have created much better strap systems. I've had Bell helmets, and last week I got a Trek helmet that was on sale at the local shop. If it fits, and you wear it, you won't go wrong. The heat can wreck the foam in a helmet, so don't let it sit in a hot car. Have fun with the Tourist...I have one and it is a stately ride. Bill

   RE:MISC:    posted by ART on 8/17/2000 at 7:33:02 PM
Buy something new, not used...the styrofoam weakens with age. Make sure the helmet fits, sometimes shops don't have the right size and will tell you a helmet fits when it doesn't. It shouldn't move around on your head or be too high up on your forehead. It comes with pads of varying thickness to custom fit the helmet snugly to your head. I always try all that stuff on in the shop.

   RE:MISC:    posted by Keith on 8/18/2000 at 6:56:45 AM
I agree about buying new -- since '99 al helments have had to meet uniform minimum requirements to be certified, and Bells are available for $30 at departments stores and bike shops. GLOVES are a good diea too -- if you fall, they can really save the skin on your hands. There's a site that Randy has where I beleive he goes into detail on adjusting rod brakes -- I think the same info is in the archives -- the basic idea is to have the pads engage the rim at the same time. Keep those rims clean and free of oil. Happy riding!

   RE:MISC:    posted by Michael on 8/22/2000 at 7:08:11 AM
In my experience the internal shape is just as important as size. My Met helmet has an adjustable flexible band on the inside, like every other type of safety helmet made (construction/climbing/kayak etc).
I've used ones with pads of adjustable thickness, but they don't compare in terms of stability.

Before the helmet era I used to ride a Triumph All Steel 3sp with rod brakes, wearing a deerstalker. The low small brim kept the rain off my glasses, without it blowing off. Top cycling gear.