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Archived: English Roadsters

AGE / VALUE:   raleigh superbe posted by: jason on 10/14/2001 at 9:56:59 PM
i would like to know any info on this bike. it's green and has a serial number on the frame 1922704 and it has a aturmey archer 3 speed and the original dunlop white sprite tires. it says pat no (j) i think 09458 and regd no 87127c on the luggage rack. it also has a locking front tire and headlight and backlight that are hooked to wires.

AGE / VALUE:   Triumph Torrington posted by: Fred on 10/14/2001 at 1:50:45 AM
I have a 1957 Triumph Torrington Club bike. Is there some significance to the model name,"Torrington"?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Triumph Torrington posted by Warren on 10/14/2001 at 4:40:48 AM
Hi Fred...there is a Torrington catalogue repro for auction on e-bay...check out http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1017527217 It looks as if Torrington was at least a parts manufacturer. Maybe they were prestige parts back then and therefore a bike was marketed using the name.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Triumph Torrington posted by Sheldon Brown on 10/14/2001 at 5:23:18 AM
I don't know from the Triumph model. The Torrington company was based in Torrington, Connecticut, and I'd doubt that there's any connection with an English bike of that name.

Most of the cities and towns in western Connecticut are named for towns and cities in England. Indeed, this practice followed settlement up the Connecticut River valley, and you'll see lots of the same town names in Massachusetts, Vermont and New Hampshire.

Torrington was in business, I believe, until some time in the early '70s, though in later years they were mainly known as a maker of spokes. I used to use Torrington spokes a lot in my early wheelbuilding days, and still have a few of th old red and yellow boxes kicking aroud.

Torrington spokes were generally galvanized, and were considered good quality back in the day--before DT came on the scene and raised the bar for everybody else.

Sheldon Brown

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Triumph Torrington posted by Fred on 10/15/2001 at 4:47:55 AM
Thanks Warren and Sheldon. I am familiar with the Torrington Co. in Conn. They were known for the manufacture of needle bearings among other things. As for some tie-in to the Torrington Co. in the UK, I see nothing on the bike that is marked by that name.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Triumph Torrington posted by Sheldon Brown on 10/15/2001 at 9:19:48 PM
I didn't mean to imply that there was a Torrington _company_ in England (though that's not impossible.) My point was that Torrington is almost certainly an English _place_name_, and the bike model could well have been named for the place, with no connection to Torrington parts.

There's a loooooong tradition of using place names for bicycle models. Raleigh and Lenton, for instance, are both street names in Nottingham. Humber is a major English river.

Sheldon Brown

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Wartime Raleigh ID? posted by: Jeff on 10/14/2001 at 1:28:10 AM
Once again I attended the giant AACA car show in Hershey, PA. and purchased a rod brake Raleigh hoping for something fun to ride. I took the bike home and and upon further inspection I find that I have an original wartime bike.
This bike has a full chaincase, a Brooks B72 saddle, an AW hub with a chrome shell and black hardware along with a 3 or 4 speed shifter with a black pulley and fulcrum clamp. There is a mix of black and chrome hardware on the rod brakes and black hardware on the front hub. It has two different Dunlop "War Grade" tyres (26") on it. There's no light bracket on it and it has small plastic barrel style grips and a nice gold script "Raleigh" decal on the chain case. The only thing I could find that resembled a serial # was a 5266 AL stamped on the left side of the seat lug. There are no codes on the hub.
Any ideas on year and model of this bike?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Wartime Raleigh ID? posted by Scott on 10/14/2001 at 3:43:44 PM

Does your war-time Raleigh have a head tube badge or decal? I have a 1947 Sports that has a Raleigh Heron decal instead of a badge on the head tube. The bike does not look like it was ever repainted and all other decals are properly in place. It is the only one I have ever seen. I was wondering if this was a war-time and early post-war time thing due to an availablity problem. Any comments?


P.S. I am looking for a Raleigh Sports black front fender in very goog condition from the late 40's early 50's. I also am looking for a black Raleigh frame pump from this time period.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Wartime Raleigh ID? posted by Geoff on 10/15/2001 at 2:44:04 AM
There is a simpe way to date most English 3-speeds. Sturmey-Archer people were kind enough to stamp date codes on their hub shells. Postwar bikes had the month and last two digits of the year (i.e., "11-47") near the company logo on the hub shell. Older ones has only the last digit of the year stamped next to the hub type. My 1935-ish Raleigh Dawn Tourist has rear hub stamped, "KB5", while my 1940 Three Spires Gazelle is stamped "AW0" (the last character is a zero, not an "O"). As to decals on the head tube, my 1935 Tourist has an original decal there, and has definitely never been painted. My late thirties Raleigh Record Ace also has a decal on the head tube, plus a funny serial number that does not correspond to the serial number charts listed on this site and elsewhere. I do not know of other prewar or wartime Raleighs to compare this feature to.
That bike of yours sounds like a great find! You can get a repro 1940 Raleigh catalog from Velo Retro (look them up with your browser, or email me and I'll get the url for you) and look up exactly what model you have.
Have fun!

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Wartime Raleigh ID? posted by sam on 10/15/2001 at 3:40:52 AM
American bikes that were sold to the public used a decal inplace of headbadge--only seen one Engligh bike from WW2 it also had a decal in place of a badge

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Wartime Raleigh ID? posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/16/2001 at 12:39:16 AM
Another bike I see with decals instead of badges is Humber. Some 28's made by Raleigh have decals.
This is really neat when you find these like this.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Wartime Raleigh ID? posted by Jeff on 10/16/2001 at 1:49:35 AM
Now I feel left out because my bike still has a brass headbadge on it. Another neat thing about it is the rear tire (Tyre) has "Dunlop Champion war grade made in Great Britian" stamped on it and the front is marked "Dunlop war grade made in England" I see another story behind these...

MISC:   ride tomorrow 10 -13 posted by: rickey on 10/13/2001 at 10:01:03 PM
come ride tomorrow take I-85 TO VALLEY LANETTE EXIT south on hwy 29 valley to knowles bicycle shop 10am-11am bring your own bike let's ride

MISC:   ride tomorrow 10 -13 posted by: rickey on 10/13/2001 at 10:01:03 PM
come ride tomorrow take I-85 TO VALLEY LANETTE EXIT south on hwy 29 valley to knowles bicycle shop 10am-11am bring your own bike lets ridehttp://attach5.groups.yahoo.com/v1/0FnHO0Cf-Pwh1_UoJqtfk5s12yhCe-P9iSSFvnzRkDApt2V_ydRXxNVySjsmANePETZOKSPkM6hDATl9GnbgWv5H0y6iNqCVauHBS8dn4jA_xuJC/froggy%281%29.jpg

   RE:MISC:   ride tomorrow 10 -13 posted by rickey on 10/13/2001 at 10:15:29 PM
duh muck up hummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

AGE / VALUE:   Oxidized Tourist paint posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/13/2001 at 6:33:27 PM
Some kind of overcoating to keep the thing from getting all oxidized would have been nice. It's not like these companies didn't have labs and study and know all about paints/ topcoats.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Oxidized Tourist paint posted by Fred on 10/14/2001 at 1:43:35 AM
Its called clearcoat Chris. It isn't impervious to the elements but does extend the appearance life of the base coat many years. It would have been great if it had been around earlier. Of course powder coat is best but it limits design creativity and is expensive.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Oxidized Tourist paint posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/14/2001 at 6:06:00 PM
When did clear coat come on the scene? Did they have it in 1980? This D.L.1. is all oxidized. Perhaps they had it available and just didn't use it.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Oxidized Tourist paint posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/14/2001 at 6:10:33 PM
My 1987 green D.L.1. had the powder coat finish and it was terrible. It was too thick and personally I don't care for it.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Oxidized Tourist paint posted by Stacey on 10/14/2001 at 7:25:53 PM
Christopher, methinks that a lot of the early paints were laquer based, hence more prone to oxidation than the more modern enamels which, while the will still oxidize, do so less quickly.

Here's a little "It worked for me"... My partner has an early '50s vintage Schwinn balooner (blue w/white trim) this beasty was gnarly looking. The gloss level of the paint was non-existant! It looked like it was painted with tempra paint! After a good bath & degreasing, allowing a week to dry (Mainly because I didn't feel like working on HER bike, mine needed attention to) I gave it a through application of Chrome Polish, yep just like you'd use on the rims! A cup of coffe & two cigarettes later the polish was dry, a quick wipe down and buff, again just like the rims and Viola!... all the dead paint was gone. Follow up with a good waxing and all signs of sick, oxidized paint were gone. Now, this fifty year old behomoth looks years younger! I could make up a whole bunch of technical sounding mumbo jumbo as to why I used chrome polish instead of polishing coumpound based on grit & cut and all that stuff, truth be told... I had it, I used it, it worked.

I even used it over the decal on the seat tube with no damage. However, (Disclaimer time) "YOUR RESULTS MAY VARY!"

In the wind,

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Oxidized Tourist paint posted by Fred on 10/15/2001 at 5:01:16 AM
Chris; Ford adopted clear coat paint around 1990. My 89 Mercury does not have clear coat but a friend's 91 Does. I think the industry went that way at about the same time. Stacey is right on with the comment about laquer not being as durable as enamel. I love the old slow drying enamel paint. It would get hard and tough with time or by baking it. Your powder coated bikes poor powder coat is not typical. My brother builds Harley knockoff motorcycles and has all the frames powder coated and they are beautiful. As with paint however, too little or too much will not endure.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Oxidized Tourist paint posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/16/2001 at 12:01:22 AM
Thanks everybody for your comments

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Oxidized Tourist paint posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/18/2001 at 4:13:52 PM
"Kitt Scratch Out" comes in a yellow plastic bottle. Near the Turtle Wax at the hardware store! Rub it into and all around the paint and polish it good.
I put a buffing wheel on a drill and carefully go over it.
-Ahead of the wind and "first one in the door" because I've been sitting there for 2 hours.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   It lives, Igor, it lives! posted by: Edward in Vancouver on 10/13/2001 at 2:12:26 AM
Just got it together and it works! I've finally managed to convert a regular AW wheel to a six speed. Thanks for the advice, Dale, but since I don't have a bench grinder, I opted to take apart an old Shimano 7 speed hyperglide cluster and use the 24 and 19 tooth cogs. I did use the Dremel to grind out 3 of the 6 splines though. From a consignment store, I picked up an Allvit derraileur and Huret friction shifter. The set-up works quite well. Now if I can just get the hockey-stick chainguard to fit properly....

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   It lives, Igor, it lives! posted by Dale Oswald on 10/14/2001 at 7:04:40 AM
I wasn't aware of the Hyperglide option, which sounds like another good alternative - maybe even a better one, when you compare it to grinding down teeth. Happy trails.

FOR SALE:   Humber Frame posted by: Mickey Mercier on 10/13/2001 at 12:34:10 AM
Hi, am selling of many of my things because I am moving. I have a Humber English racer frame that I belive is 50 or more years old. It has twin-strut forks and a crank featuring cutouts of nymphs, the original fenders and chainguard (open) and a headset which I don't know is original. I thought it was cool when I picked it out of a scrap pile and might someday make one of my custom urban bikes out of it. I have looked for serial numbers or model name on the frame and can't find anything. Now, I am going to have to toss it out unless someone wants it. Is there anyone out there who would enjoy having such a thing? I would like to get something for it, but it is such a hassle to ship it. The bike is in New Haven. CT. Mickey (203) 469-6780. mr.shred@mindspring.com

Thanks, Mickey

AGE / VALUE: Honest bicycle mechanics posted by: Dewane on 10/12/2001 at 2:38:40 PM
Hi, I know this forum is usually for tech questions but I had something happen to me last night I'd like to share.

I've had a problem with the bottom bracket on my '72 Raleigh for about two months now; it makes this horrible clunking noise in the bottom bracket area when I pedal and the cranks move forward almost like a fixed gear bike if I don't pedal. I finally had to quit riding it.

I came to the realization that I don't have the werewithal (cojones) to look into the bottom bracket, so I went to Palo Alto bicycles to get this fixed. The mechanic there figured out through visual inspection (moved the crank back and forth) that the problem was an extrememly worn-out cotter. He knocked out the old cotter easy as pie, had some 9.5mm cotters and replaced the old, worn-out one.

Total cost of this fix, including labor: $1 (99 cents for the cotter and 1 cent for the labor). I wanted to tip him or get his name, but he went immediately to fixing other people's bikes and I didn't want to bother him any more.

By the way, I don't know why a loose or worn-out cotter causes a crank to move forward during freewheeling but it does.

Long live English roadsters. Long live honest bicycle mechanics.

- Dewane

   RE:AGE / VALUE: Honest bicycle mechanics posted by Ben on 10/12/2001 at 8:42:18 PM
Likely separate problem. Crank moving forward is usually caused by the chain being too tight. Can be other things too, see Sheldon for more info.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Honest bicycle mechanics posted by Kenneth on 10/12/2001 at 11:00:02 PM
But would Sheldon replace one for $1?

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Honest bicycle mechanics posted by rickey on 10/13/2001 at 6:33:38 PM
being a bicycle mc & suporting a family of 5 soley on bike repairs & sales in a small town yes by all means god bless the bike mc & god bless america ! pedal on

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Models posted by: MArk on 10/11/2001 at 11:32:54 PM
Can anyone help identify my Raleighs? For example what is the difference between the 'Sports' and 'Superbe'? Were there any other models? Following a helpful note from Fred (see posting 'Raleigh wheels' 10/11), I know my bikes are not DL1's as they all have 26x1 3/8" wheels.
I have three black Raleighs: one 1955, rod brakes, four speed FG dyno hub, a 'dyno luxe' battery pack clamped to the seat tube and an elaborate brooks saddle with two coil springs at the back and one coil spring at the front.
I have another black 1955 which is identical to the first '55 except it has calliper brakes, no battery pack and a replacement saddle.
Both the 55's have 'westrick' stainless steel Raleigh rims, fully enclosed chain guards and locking forks.
My third bike is a 1969, rod brakes, three speed AW dyno hub and chromed rims. Other than this it is very similar to the '55s.
None of the bikes have any identifying decals except for Raleigh on the chainguard, head tube and rear fender.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Models posted by Sheldon Brown on 10/12/2001 at 3:20:17 AM
Superbes are very similar to Sports models, only with additionl features, typically:

•Locking front fork

•B66 (2 springs) or B73 (3 springs) saddles instead of the loop-railed B72

•Dynohub lighting systems, often with auxiliary battery units. (The Dynohub was also an extra cost option for the standard Sports.)

•Presstube rear luggage racks.

There were also "Superbe" versions of the DL-1 rod-brake roadster. I used to own one of these, there's a photo at http://sheldonbrown.com/english That one had a 4-speed rear Dyno. I still own the ladys model that was its mate...that has similar equipment but with 26 inch wheels. This is similar to the '55 models described above.

Most Superbes I've seen have been Bronze Green color.

Sheldon "Superbe Roadster" Brown

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Models posted by Warren on 10/12/2001 at 3:58:31 AM
You seem to have identified the bikes already Mark. The only odd thing is the '69 model with rod brakes. I've never seem a Sports model later than the 50's with these brakes. Are you dating the bike by the frame number or the rear hub. There is a couple of lists/sites with date codes for Raleigh frame numbers...right here at http://OldRoads.com/ra_sn.asp for starters.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Models posted by Peter on 10/12/2001 at 1:23:45 PM
I've done some research on Raleigh 'roadster' model names by extracting data from the UK catalogues of 1937,47,55,57 and 63. Raleigh were fairly consistent in their model names and catalogue numbers, both of which implied certain levels of equipment and build.
Bearing in mind that all this comes from UK catalogues, the following statements are broadly true : -
The 28" wheel models were models 1,2 and 3, with increasing levels of equipment.
The 26" wheel models with rod brakes were models 11,12 and 13 and all had 'Dawn' in their name.
The 26" wheel models with cable brakes were models 22,23, and 24 and all had 'Sports' in their name.
'Superbe' in the name implied dynamo lighting, a full chain case, a steering lock, stainless steel rims and green paint.
Thus if Mark's bikes had been UK models the first two would have been : -
model 13, Superbe Dawn Tourist, and
model 24, Superbe Sports Tourist.
Apart from the colour - in the UK up to at least 1955 the Superbe was the only green model. Every model in the catalogue could be ordered with equipment upgrades which would bring the spec. up close to the next model, but presumably would not include the steering lock of the Superbe.
I've got this data in Excel - anyone interested is welcome to e-mail me for a copy.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Models posted by Mark on 10/12/2001 at 10:59:05 PM
Thanks to all for excellent info above. In reply to Warrens' query, I am dating the bikes from both the frame and hub. The 55's are frame #765695T hub 55/10, and frame #728529T hub 55/8. The '69 is frame #63590LE hub 69/5. I notice that the serial number lists stop at 'FE', but assuming this series continued 'LE' looks about right for '69. Incidentally the '69 has no bottom bracket oiler and a plastic oiler in the rear hub. It also has no pulley under the saddle for the gear cable. I think all three bikes are UK models.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Models posted by Warren on 10/13/2001 at 2:14:00 AM
Ok Mark, you're making me crazy over this '69. I'm racking my brain trying to think of ways to prove that this frame has to have been made earlier. Is it the front axle nuts or the hub cones that have the flange that seats the wheel into the keyed area of the front fork? How many spokes do both the front and rear wheels have? Can the pedal blocks be removed easily with one wrench (8mm)? Now I'm sounding like a lawyer..."Is there, or has there ever been a set of cable brakes mounted on the front or rear of the bike?...just answer the question Mark". Is there any wear on the outside of the rims?. Finally, what style of writing is used on the downtube...is it block serifed or is it an italized block font? Is it possible that the the frame was drilled and tapped to accomodate the rod brake hardware? ...no more questions...your witness.

I guess it would help if anyone else on the list has seen a rod brake Sports model from the late 60's on. Then I can shut up...

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Models posted by Peter on 10/15/2001 at 9:35:26 AM
Made an error in my sunnmmary of Raleigh 'roadster' names and specifications. Steering lock was not unique to Superbe, at least in 1955 'Tourist' in the name implied a steering lock. Makes sense - if you were touring, you would want to lock it. Peter.

FOR SALE:   Gazelle Pro Sport 1986 Ladies' bike NEVER ridden posted by: Christina Noren on 10/11/2001 at 9:40:10 PM
I have found a bike purchased and imported from Holland for me in 1986 that I never rode.
The tags are still on it!
It's a blue gazelle "pro sport" ladies bike with a matching tote and all its accessories including coordinated cover.

I really don't have an idea as to fair value, looking to gauge interest and get and idea of fair price from those who may be more experienced on the topic.

AGE / VALUE:   Royality ... posted by: dave on 10/11/2001 at 3:12:20 PM
I picked up a pair of womens English three speeds yesterday. One is an old Hercules, but with a different, and very ornate, head badge -- it says "Royal Prince Manufactured by Hercules Cycle and Motor Co Birmingham. Hercules decal on the seattube, Hercules B type 4 rear hub, front hub has an oil port, white block pedals with Hercules in the rubber (in poor shape -- dang), H motif in the chainrings, Hercules label on the rear of the mattress saddle. Did Hercules have a range of models? Any guesses as to age or how I would date it?

Seond bike is a Royal Lion, head badge says just that and Made in England. SA shifter, SW '58 rear hub, front hub also has oil port -- never heard of this marque before ...

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Royality ... posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 10/12/2001 at 1:01:57 AM
I have a Royal Prince. It is a kids bike and these are cool. Hercules did indeed have a range of models. Childrens, teens, adult bikes. Rod brake roadsters and cable brake models, even a 27 inch wheel race bike.
These were made before Raleigh bought up Hercules and the rear 3 speed has a threaded driver. The small rear cog where the chain goes around is threaded onto the driver. Royal Lion, I have never heard of before. Check out Sheldon's page.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Royality ... posted by Brian Hayes on 10/15/2001 at 7:11:35 PM
How's the '58 SW working? Does this have a left or right side indicator? If it's one of the Hercules models, it should have a Hercules stamping on the hub (still made by Sturmey Archer, though).

MISC:   The Majordomo Project posted by: Ben on 10/11/2001 at 1:38:06 PM

Can you give us an update on the progress of your majordomo list?



   RE:MISC:   The Majordomo Project posted by Sheldon Brown on 10/13/2001 at 12:06:35 AM
It's up and running. Looks to have about 25 subscribers so far. There's currently a thread running on hybrid gearing. To subscribe, go to http://sheldonbrown.org/englishbike

Sheldon "It's Not As Big As My Bicycle Science List" Brown

   RE:MISC:   The Majordomo Project posted by Ben on 10/14/2001 at 2:01:07 AM
I did register, but put the content your page directed me to copy as both the subject and message....

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh wheels posted by: Fred on 10/11/2001 at 11:42:38 AM
I received a note recently from a fellow in the UK who wanted information on Raleigh bikes specifically model identification. Apparently his bikes had no model designation on them for some reason, perhaps the decals were worn away. In the course of his inquiry he mentioned that two 1955 models had stainless steel, Westrick pattern wheels. Is that something that was available as an option? I have heard that some Raleigh bikes, manufactured in Holland also had stainless steel rims.

I have always been dissapointed in the plating on Raleigh bikes particularly as found on the rims. I have several Raleigh Sports and DL-1's that are in excellent condition, including the chrome, but some of my merely decent Raleigh 3 speeds are decent in every way except for the rims which are very rusty. It is a fact that chrome plate is very porous and unsuitable for prolonged exposure to the elements if not overlayed on a substrate of copper and nickel. I see no evidence that either of the latter metals were applied to Raleigh steel rims. I would like to replace some of the hopelessly rusty rims but preserving authenticity seems impossible.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh wheels posted by Keith on 10/11/2001 at 8:13:44 PM
My experience mirrors yours, Fred, except that rims on pre-1970 bikes that appeared rusty when I got them cleaned up nicely, somewhat the way old Schwinn rims do. In contrast, the chrome on post-1970 rims seems to peel off regardless of rust -- indicating possibly not only lack of copper underplating, but lack of proper pre-plating surface preparation. I don't know if there's a demarkation at that exact date, but my sense is that over time everything on these bikes was cheapened and quality went downhill over time. In fact, I'd say that's true of a number of the major European names during and immediately after the bike boom. My armchair quarterback theory (hunch) is that when Europeans and Brits were unable to keep up with the 1970-74 bike boom demand, they really started throwing things together. But it goes deeper than that -- Sheldon's site shows the steady decline of nicer features on the Sports model going back well before th bike boom. Anyway, I suspect that way back when in the good old days rims and everything else was properly plated. I can't recall the particulers, but there were nice stainless rims available on Brit club bikes a long time ago -- can't remembr whether they were Raleigh, Dunlop, or something else. Someone here will know.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh wheels posted by Warren on 10/11/2001 at 11:27:02 PM
They would be the 26 X 1 1/4 Dunlop EA1 rims that came both in chrome and stainless. A pair of stainless sold on e-bay sometime ago for over $100 but I didn't see the final price. I think there was an anodized version on some on the early Raleigh Record Ace bikes. I've never heard of stainless in the EA3 rim... but just confuse things, I pulkled a beautiful pair of westrick alloy rims (32/40) off of a 58 Sports...I guess they were add ons but I would love to find more of them.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh wheels posted by Fred on 10/12/2001 at 3:12:40 AM
Keith; My 1957 Triumph club bike has Dunlop chrome wheels and in spite of the fact that all of the plated parts are in good original condition, the front wheel has lost a small patch of plating. I will probably have the wheel re-plated. I see that my UK correspondant has posted a note above. I'm glad to see that he took my advice to ask his questions of the experts here at OldRoads.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh posted by: Mark on 10/10/2001 at 6:08:55 PM
Is ther any way to date Raleigh 'frames' from the 60's & 70's, and what year did the last of the 3-speed bikes come out of England.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh posted by Sheldon Brown on 10/11/2001 at 4:01:36 AM
I have a general page on Raleigh dating which may help you narrow it down a bit. See: http://sheldonbrown.com/raleigh.html

Sheldon Brown