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Archived: English Roadsters

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   age /value posted by: mel pendleton on 11/8/2001 at 10:17:27 PM
i have a triumph bicyle serial number 69045- da. it has a sturmey archer rear hub model ag, rear dyno hub, rod brakes,full chain case. can anyone tell me the year of manufacture and approx value.

MISC:   SOLUTION TO A GRIPPING PROBLEM posted by: ALBERT on 11/8/2001 at 8:40:43 PM
One of the more nasty features found on British roadsters is the low quality handlebar grips. These rubber grips are uncomfortable because of their sharp ribs; they also slowly disintegrate leaving your hands soiled. This is yet another example of the Establishments control of the British cycle industry and its complete disregard for the "cloth cap" users of their product.
I find the grips found on Schwinn cycles to be excellent; they are made from a comfortable semi-hard vinyl and have a unique double-wall construction that is quite comfortable. Needless-to-say, all of my roadsters are so equipped. Cheers from Philadelphia!

   RE:MISC:   SOLUTION TO A GRIPPING PROBLEM posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 11/8/2001 at 9:06:46 PM
Albert is free to do whatever makes him happy but personally, I hate seeing a Raleigh with Schwinn grips or any other grip that is not origonal. I only have gotten my hands soiled once and these were smooth, black grips. The first thing I pull off is "wrong grips" and I go in my bin and fish out another correct set. I love the feel of the Raleigh Tourist grips "ribs" and all.

   RE:RE:MISC: Removing stubborn handlebar grips posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 11/8/2001 at 9:41:43 PM
I remove the handlebars and run them under hot water and they slide off.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC: Removing stubborn handlebar grips posted by Kevin C. on 11/8/2001 at 10:39:20 PM
I love the black Schwinn cushion grips, too. They're so much more comfortable than any Raleigh grips I've ever tried. The Tourist I ride has the Schwinn grips and the big Brooks B-90/3 saddle. Neither is original equipment but they provide a wonderful ride.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC: Removing stubborn handlebar grips posted by Edward in Vancouver on 11/8/2001 at 11:22:33 PM
Ooh-boy, what an imagination, eh?

   RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC: Removing stubborn handlebar grips posted by Warren on 11/8/2001 at 11:54:48 PM
Ditto on the schwinn grips...I bought the last six pair from a store in Toronto and can't find them anymore. Of course original is paramount but I've had too many bikes that have already been replaced with crap. They are so comfortable.

   RE:MISC:   SOLUTION TO A GRIPPING PROBLEM posted by Lane on 11/9/2001 at 12:53:30 AM
I have always used the Raleigh grips but mine were cracking up. My problem was solved when I visited Italy this summer and while there went to several city bike shops. The selection of grips are totally different than I can get in US and much better. Very comfortable and though not original, they look correct. I brought back enough to do all my bicycles among other things.

   RE:MISC:   SOLUTION TO A GRIPPING PROBLEM posted by sam on 11/9/2001 at 1:42:12 AM
Lovelylowrider has the schwinn style grips without the schwinn name on them.I like the barrel shaped grips on my India roadester.

   RE:MISC:   SOLUTION TO A GRIPPING PROBLEM posted by Andrew on 11/9/2001 at 2:07:52 AM
Easy on the grips fella's...I'll take my Raleigh Tourist with correct grips and my Suburban with those super comfort factory grips (they are amazing), I like my bikes stock. riding gloves may do the trick for those who feel any discomfort.

   RE:RE:MISC:   SOLUTION TO A GRIPPING PROBLEM posted by Secretariat on 11/9/2001 at 2:23:20 AM
As Mark Twain used to say, "Difference of opinion makes horse races."

   RE:MISC:   SOLUTION TO A GRIPPING PROBLEM posted by Ben on 11/9/2001 at 12:41:12 PM
I have a '59 Phillips (Birmingham) with Raleigh grips and pedals. Does anyone know whether these were original, or did the Phillips have their own brand? Did they also use the same ribbed grips?

   RE:RE:MISC:   SOLUTION TO A GRIPPING PROBLEM posted by Jorge on 11/9/2001 at 1:16:46 PM
I believe Phillips was owned by Phillips back then.
I have a 60's Phillips with gray ribbed grips and have had no problems.
Phillips made their own pedals so i believe those are

   RE:MISC:   SOLUTION TO A GRIPPING PROBLEM posted by Ben on 11/9/2001 at 3:05:02 PM
If the pedals are replacements, they are early ones that have no reflectors, repackable, with heron logo in circle on the blocks. They also have an oil hole on the cap, which I have not seen. Are the grey grips you are talking about the ones that resemble a blimp, with RI logo?

   RE:RE:MISC:   SOLUTION TO A GRIPPING PROBLEM posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 11/9/2001 at 4:10:40 PM
These are likely origonal as Phillips had just come under Raleigh's control at this point.
A pal of mine has taken tire innertubes and wraped the handlebars of his commuter bike all up in this and it is comfortable and he likes it very much.

   RE:MISC:   SOLUTION TO A GRIPPING PROBLEM posted by Ben on 11/9/2001 at 4:22:46 PM
Oh, Chris....I could never do that, the bike is really in beautiful original condition. BTW, did you ever get the pic I sent, and my address??

   RE:RE:MISC:   SOLUTION TO A GRIPPING PROBLEM posted by Jorge on 11/12/2001 at 2:43:21 AM

Ben; yes, they look like a blimp but no logo.

Does anyone know when they started putting reflectors on pedals?

   RE:RE:MISC:   SOLUTION TO A GRIPPING PROBLEM posted by Jorge on 11/12/2001 at 2:46:26 AM

Ben; yes, they look like a blimp but no logo.

Does anyone know when they started putting reflectors on pedals?

FOR SALE:   STURMEY 6v BULBS posted by: Pete Paine on 11/8/2001 at 3:34:13 PM
I have just come up with some 6v cycle bulbs thay are .2 for tail lamps and .5 for head lamps there's also a small amoumt of those capless type bulbs 6v .1 I'm not sure if these are available any more so if you get stuck give me a shout
They work out at $3 a piece + shipping
regards Pete

   RE:FOR SALE:   STURMEY 6v BULBS posted by Dale Oswald on 11/13/2001 at 5:20:23 PM
Are these real gas-filled Dynohub bulbs, or just plain old GE 1482 bulbs? (That's the headlight number, I don't remember the common tail light number). The GE bulbs used to be really easy to find at a lot less than $5 each, but who knows? Bike shops don't usually sell bulbs for the lamps they sell these days.

The 1482 bulbs do work in a Dynohub lamp, but you have to be moving a little faster to get good light output.

Has anyone experimented with new-tech halogen bulbs on a Dynohub? I'm going to order a few representative samples from Bulb Direct and try them out -- unless one of you has any recommendations.

   RE:RE:FOR SALE:   STURMEY 6v BULBS posted by DBean on 11/13/2001 at 5:50:17 PM
I'm using a Lumotec w/stock bulb (2.4 w halogen) and it's not bad. Walkers wearing black on the bike path are still a problem, of course... www.reflectalite.com has some useful info.

AGE / VALUE:   Sturmey Archer K series posted by: Peter on 11/8/2001 at 2:05:02 PM
Can anyone help me with strip down/rebuild instructions for a Sturmey Archer K7 hub? thanks, Pete.

AGE / VALUE:   1952 Rudge posted by: chris andrews on 11/8/2001 at 5:08:23 AM
Thanks Edward and Warren for instant help!! I never knew Rudge had a chainwheel like that because I never saw one before without a full chaincase. ( Does Chris Robin's have a hand hidden underneith its skirt?) Will issue a progress report.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   1952 Rudge posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 11/8/2001 at 5:02:23 PM
Yes, they do.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   1952 Rudge posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 11/9/2001 at 5:42:36 PM
The good thing about having an enclosed chaincase is that the cranks and chainring is covered and slathered up in bicycle oil and so it doesn't rust and pit. Chains last longer, bike runs smoother and quieter.
The Rudge hand is cool but my favorite is the Humber chainring. I cleaned up a basic Dunelt chainring and I was amazed how nice it looks with perfect chrome.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   1952 Rudge posted by dafydd_williams@yahoo.com on 11/9/2001 at 6:04:12 PM
Ditto on the Humber chainring. It's a true shame that bikes aren't made with such neat features anymore.

AGE / VALUE:   unidentified roadster circa 1952 posted by: chris andrews on 11/8/2001 at 12:22:22 AM
I just acquired a roadster completely covered with rust, except for one shiney item with only light pitting. Right, the Sturmey-Archer hub! Those people really knew how to plate things. It's a dynohub dated 1952, and marked AC. But the really intreagueing thing about it is the chainwheel. It is one of those proprietary cut-out jobs, but no herons or water nymphs this time. It is a hand, raised apparently in blessing, but also very much like the "Red Hand of Ulster, symbol of the Ulster Voluntier Force c. 1921; probably an illegal paramilitary group; I had one of their contraband Martini rifles once in .303 caliber. Anyhow, does that hand identify the maker? No plating left on the chainwheel, alass. There is a fork lock built into the frame, and a braze-on for the S-A pulley. Nothing is alloy, and the rims are "Westrick" type, but cable brakes were installed. There is one other non-rusted item: a foil sticker on the down tube that says "Cro-mo 4130 main tubes." I don't think this is Ackles & Polack tubing because A&P spelled Kro-mo with a K. Seat tube is one and 1/8 inch OD, and top tube 1-inch. Hubs and BB have oil ports. I intend to disassemble the Dynohub and see how similar it is to an AW. Handlebar is narrow 36mm c to c. Stem is very short like most roadsters. Any of you guys can have it for $100. plus shipping, but better hurry! No takers? Guess I'l have to rechrome the chainwheel (if I can get it off!) and hang it on the wall.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   unidentified roadster circa 1952 posted by Edward in Vancouver on 11/8/2001 at 2:34:31 AM
Are you sure the hub is an AC and not AG? Take a look at this discussion area's exploded views of Raleigh/Rudge/Humber and see if the chainwheel matches the one illustrated. The Dyno-hub is really nifty to work on, guts are the same as an AW-which is good if you need spare parts, however some other parts are not the same-particularily the left cone. The best thing for soaking off rust is Oxalic Acid, A.K.A wood bleach, it ony eats rust and is safe to use on delicate stuff like the armature and magnet assembly on the dyno-hub. Have fun

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   unidentified roadster circa 1952 posted by Warren on 11/8/2001 at 4:01:34 AM
It's a Rudge...

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   unidentified roadster circa 1952 posted by Ian on 11/8/2001 at 9:20:26 AM
Replies to questons on this page often mention a different L.H. cone for dynohubs. Can some-one please explain exactly what the differences are, preferably with dimensions of both. I have a range of Sturmey cones and nuts that came from a cycle shop close down and some of them look a little unusual but I don't know how to tell if they are dynohub ones. Thanks, Ian.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   unidentified roadster circa 1952 posted by Edward in Vancouver on 11/8/2001 at 3:21:02 PM
Ian: To get dimensions, the best thing is to go to Tony Hadland's site. There, among other things, you will find a 7 page site of cone drawings, from 1903 to present, by James Gill. This is avaialable as a PDF file, and you can download it.
With the front dyno-hubs, and rear dyo-hubs(AG, FG, and the Aw/brake combo AB) the left cone is longer and protrudes from the armature or brake plate, a special notched washer fits on the protrusion. This makes it easy to adjust the cone while the wheel is in the frame. Although the cones for the dyno hubs and the drum brake are essentially the same, the flange is different. On the AB, the flange fits snugly into the ball race, preventing any oil from seeping out into the drum.
You shouldn't have mentioned that you have all those cones, 'cause I'm gonna ask you if you've one that I'm really looking for. The odds are that you haven't, because it's from a 1930's front drum brake. Yep, left cone, 5/8 axle, 3/16 bearings, and 27/32 in overall length. I've even written to Phoenix gear hubs in England, and if they tell me no go, I'll have to convert a regular front wheel hub cone-I just need access to a metal lathe...

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Enfield Roadsters posted by: Andy on 11/7/2001 at 2:25:42 PM
Does anyone ever see Royal Enfield Roadsters with rod brakes out there in the bike world? I saw a photo of a 1950's model, much like a Raleigh DL-1, great looking bike. Also, how late were they manufactured?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Enfield Roadsters posted by Tom on 11/7/2001 at 11:15:32 PM
I have a friend who has 2 Royal Enfield rod brake bikes. Claims to be from the 30's. Both very nice and look like they could be from pre war. Both bikes are on the wall of an old shop, but are not for sale. One mens, one ladies, both black. I would love to have them but I can only dream to have a pair of vintage bikes from the same era. Sorry I don't have any info on them.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Enfield Roadsters posted by Jorge on 11/11/2001 at 6:25:21 PM

Tom, tell your buddy to post his bikes in OldRoads Vintage Picture Database,
in his walls shop they will be lost in history, I really like to see more of our readers bikes.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Enfield Roadsters posted by Elisabeth on 11/11/2001 at 8:01:53 PM
I had a 1940's ladies Royal Enfield with rod-brakes and mud guards with skirtholes. Regrettably it was stolen earlier this year along with a 1950's Raleigh and a 4-speed SA rear dynohub Humber. All 3 are beautiful bikes and you should get a Royal Enfield if you can.

AGE / VALUE:   ccm posted by: freddie on 11/7/2001 at 12:06:43 AM
Help!This old bike is not really english but canadian. Copper name badge with CCM. very ornate lugwork. The letters ccm support the other teeth on the chain ring. 28X1.75 tires peerless hub.Imperial Mark II on chaingard. E088868 on left rear dropout.About 85% of the paint with a lot of crowns and the like. any info would be of great help

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   ccm Imperial posted by Warren on 11/8/2001 at 4:12:49 AM
The Imperial came in a few versions...26 or 28 inch tires...one or 3 speed models...usually in a metallic blue or red. Crowns down the forks and seatube? I've seen Mark II thru Mark VII models. My guess is around 1960. I restored a 1963 3 speed also labelled a Mark II. It's harder to date the single speeds because the front and rear hubs rarely had any markings on them. (peerless?) I've been unable to find a database for CCM serial numbers although I here they may be info at the Museum of Science and Technology in Ottawa. Some day I'd like to get in there.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   ccm posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 11/9/2001 at 5:14:39 PM
There is a 1930's C.C.M catalog on e- bay that might interest you.
Item #1030511696 1930's C.C.M catalog
Not my auction, no relation to seller

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Newbie questions on age I.D. posted by: Norbert Kendra on 11/6/2001 at 5:02:53 AM
I am COMPLETELY NEW to the English 3 speed scene. I have an older English DUNELT 3 speed. From checking in this forum I looked under the seat (found these letters printed under the saddle-HSDCZLV) and on the back hub I found STURMEY ARCHER ENGLAND AW 65. From this information can anyone tell me what year this is and where I could find more info regarding this bike and it's value. I am thinking of putting on EBAY. ANY HELP would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Norb

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Newbie questions on age I.D. posted by ALBERT on 11/6/2001 at 12:23:56 PM
Norbert, your cycle is worth perhaps $20. Why don't you simply use and enjoy it?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Newbie questions on age I.D. posted by BillG on 11/6/2001 at 2:30:58 PM
Really? $20?
That is a 35 year old bicycle which hasn't been in production for 25 years. It has fenders and an upright riding position. You can shift it while stopped.

Assuming the bike is in just FAIR shape it's got to be worth $50 minimum. If it's a men's bike figure $75. These are the ultimate college campus or city cruisers.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Newbie questions on age I.D. posted by Ben on 11/6/2001 at 2:54:13 PM
You may be right Bill, but if you hit garage sales on any weekend you can find these for $20.00 or even less, needing just a little tuneup work or a tire. $50.00 would be for something in nicer rideable condition, not needing any real work. $75 is sort of a middle ground for people willing to pay too much for the same bike. Nice, beginning to be collectible bikes seem to start at about $125 and up at retail. Of course you can get lucky and find the $400. roadster at an estate sale for $20. I paid $60. for my wife's Humber, which is a plain one with hockey stick guard and Raleigh cable brakes, but the bike was almost perfect condition, all chrome perfect, all decals intact, very good brooks leather seat, beautiful aged black patina.

That said, Norbert might get more than $20. on ebay, because there seems to be buyers out there for just about any bike in this category.

Hope this helps,


   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Newbie questions on age I.D. posted by Art on 11/6/2001 at 7:15:23 PM
If this bike were on e-bay, you'd have to figure $50.00 or thereabouts for shipping alone. A hard sell I think unless it has a rack, pump, bags, good tires, light. or tools. I think it's the shipping that can kill these bikes on e-bay.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Newbie questions on age I.D. posted by ALBERT on 11/6/2001 at 8:23:53 PM
Bill G., have you actually tried to sell a midling quality average condition roadster? In the Phialdelphia area I have difficulty in giving them away.
I must confess my resentment toward those who see the roadster as an artifact that can be converted into a large sum of money. These Philistines must have little regard for the special endearing qualities that users of these machines love.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Newbie questions on age I.D. posted by martinH on 11/6/2001 at 9:27:04 PM
Norbert, posting your Dunelt on ebay is not a bad idea. Since a rather common BSA bicycle appears to be going for more money than I would expect (item #1027970525 ), you never know who might want your bike or what they might pay. Good luck!

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Newbie questions on age I.D. posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 11/7/2001 at 12:42:20 AM
I don't want to discourage him from putting it on E- bay, but the B.S.A. is worth more because of the motorcycle related nameplate. Same thing with Triumph bikes.
I would get it rideable and clean it this winter and park it in the meantime and look for another bike to re- sell on e- bay. The Dunelt won't bring in enough to really bother with. The packing and shipping and listing bothering with.
Is this thing in mint shape? Tricked out with accesories? These go from being found at the kerb to up to $150.00 but it depends. Some shops will have these for like $75.00 others will tell you it's collectable and not for sale.
What color is this? I gave 75.00 for a mens in red and beat out another guy who wanted it. But this was all there, no rust,almost perfect shape with flawless decals. They made these in Flamenco( candy apple red shade) and these are nice looking bikes with nice Dunelt decals in gold. Color is important I believe. Black was more common wasn't it? There was black, red, a blue for ladies.
I saw a 27 inch Dunelt Fleur De leise and it was a 531 bike. A fairly nice bike, anyway's more desireable than the steel 26 inch 3 speed.
Try to get higher up the scale, cast the net out again.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Newbie questions on age I.D. posted by sam on 11/7/2001 at 2:54:18 AM
Red, flamenco red,Dunelt in shop in San Antinio $39 last week.looks like never been ridden.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Newbie questions on age I.D. posted by Geoff Rogers on 11/7/2001 at 4:43:45 PM
It's true that most English 3-speeds are not that valuable unless tricked out or really special in some other way (old or clubman type, or ridden by Elvis). I think $20 is a little pessimistic, although maybe that's the way it is in Philly. I have sold several of these machines in the past year from $45 to $75. The BSA or Triumph name adds value because of the motorcycle and car connections, it's true. The Raleigh name also adds value, even though most of the other bikes were made in the Raleigh factory of Raleigh components!
I have something of a Dunelt collection. I own five of them, including a prewar child's rod brake bike, a '58 lady's sports in an odd purple color, a normal black '65 lady's sports, a turquoise '69 men's sports, and my daily rider, a 28" wheel model with rod brakes and chrome fenders. Rides like a Cadillac!
Albert's advice is, I think sound: use it, don't think of it as something that will make you money.
Geoff Rogers

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Newbie questions on age I.D. posted by Kevin C. on 11/8/2001 at 1:24:24 AM
I agree with Albert. Real world example: I went to the big Portland, Ind. bike show a few months ago and bought a very nice, clean, complete, 1960s men's Raleigh Sports for $15. I rode it away. It had been sitting for three days and hundreds, maybe thousands, of collectors passed it by in favor of bikes that few adults would even try to ride more than a block: Sting-Rays and big, heavy old ballooners. It just showed me, once again, the the English lightweight crowd represents a tiny, tiny fraction of the bike people.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Newbie questions on age I.D. posted by Warren on 11/8/2001 at 4:22:42 AM
It all depends where you live on the continent. Many north eastern and Canadian cities have an abundance. I buy and sell 3 speed Sport/Superbe models to the tune of about 7 a year for the last few years. I get them for around $30 (cdn) and only ask $75 to friends and aquaintances. Some stores ask $200 for a Superbe but have to show it for a long time to get that.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Newbie questions on age I.D. posted by Jorge on 11/9/2001 at 1:31:29 PM
Hogwash, Roadsters are THE bikes of the century, reminiscence of the first safety’s,

simple yet beautifully designed, perfect diamond shape, best utilitarian transport ever

conceived, best kept secret, someday they might be worth a pot of gold.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Newbie questions on age I.D. posted by Stacey on 11/9/2001 at 2:17:07 PM
Now for my two cents. First and foremost...Congratulations & welcome to the addiction Norbert!

I'm an eBay seller too Norbert. Value is an elusive beast as you can see by the tone of the various responses you've recieved. To me Value = Exactly the amount of $$$ that a particular person or persons is willing to pay for a particular item at a particular time.

Many are the times that I've put something up for auction that I believed to be absolute GOLD, only to have it die a slow agonizing death completely un-bid and have a repeat preformance on the re-list. The inverse is also true. Strange things happen when you try to create a desire to own in people. Sometimes they turn their noses, others they have a battle royal!

In closing, should you opt to sell it, I wish you the best. Should you choose to keep it, may you enjoy many safe & trouble-free miles! Thanks for the floor.

In the wind,

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:Dunelt bicycle posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 11/9/2001 at 5:20:06 PM
Several of my Dunelts have a large plastic oil port in the right side of the bottombracket shell. There is a hole drilled there and this plastic piece is pushed down into the frame. This is great for oiling the bottombracket. My ladies Raleigh Sports has a hinge type metal one that is spring loaded.These also are not threaded, be careful that you don't bend the metal one pulling it out of the frame they're fragile.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Newbie questions on age I.D. posted by Robert on 11/9/2001 at 6:54:51 PM
The red one that Sam mentioned here is presently locked in the back of my pickup. $20.00 out the door. 1964 model and pretty nice. No, it won't climb mountains or bunnyhop over a saw horse, but you can ride them forever. What else could a person want? Thanks Sam

   Thiis may make some angry but... posted by Gary M on 11/11/2001 at 12:43:13 AM
I would be happy to cut that bike up and donate the steel to the Recycle company next door. thats about what its worth. I cut up over 150 bikes this year easy. Mostly Roadsters and 10 speeds. And again private individuals who are not in the bicycle business try to tell others what a bike is worth. Even though i live in a college town, with almost no hills and though a Roadster is the most practical bike ever invented, Neither I nor any of my fellow dealers can give them away. I sold the only remaining model, an awesome silver ladies tourist, that looked like new for $50 a month ago. had to take junk in trade, and toss in a new seat to get that. I suppose in a town with pipe smoking tweed clad professors, sporting thick rimmed glasses and bowties, such sales would be everyday. Just where is this place?

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Newbie questions on age I.D. posted by Jude Feingold on 1/22/2005 at 1:18:49 AM
I have three roadsters for sale:

1949 Maroon, RUDGE WHITWORTH LTP. 3 sp. Bicycle

1950 Black, BSA English Roadster Bicycle

1950 Green, Raleigh English Roadster Bicycle

anyone intersested can email me: suzahrow@charter.net

I can easily email you photos


MISC:   Roadster in Afghanistan posted by: Bruce on 11/6/2001 at 12:50:11 AM
Rudgematch and Christopher Robin, I read your mention of the roadster, I noticed another one in todays (11/5/01) Dallas Morning News, it had a teenage boy riding a DL.1 with 2 tanks in the background, I believe they were the Northern Alliance, looks like a lot of these bikes are over in that part of the world.

   RE:MISC:   Roadster in Afghanistan posted by Jorge Üllfig on 11/6/2001 at 2:49:01 AM
In the old days the British exported rails & Raleigh roadsters.

FOR SALE:   NOS Miller generator sets. posted by: VVVintage Vintage Bicycles at OldRoads.com on 11/5/2001 at 8:00:22 PM
NOS Miller generator sets. All steel housings. All Miller branded. Mounting hardware includes bracket for your headset Heron mount.
Pictures and details near the bottom of our "Misc. NOS Parts" page:


VVVintage Vintage Bicycles

MISC:   Dyno keeper question posted by: DBean on 11/5/2001 at 5:01:55 PM
Does anyone know if there's a standard size iron pipe or fitting that might be used successfully as a "keeper" for a Dynohub magnet? I want to test some magnet/armature combos but I need a place to park the extra magnet.

   RE:MISC:   Dyno keeper question posted by Ben on 11/5/2001 at 10:16:10 PM
Well, you could just switch them out using the hubs as keepers...

   RE:MISC:   Dyno keeper question posted by Sheldon Brown on 11/6/2001 at 12:15:00 AM
You can rent mine if you'd like. $5.00 if you pick it up; add $6.00 for shipping/handling if I need to send it to you.

Drop me an email if you're interested.


   RE:MISC:   Dyno keeper question posted by Ben on 11/8/2001 at 4:33:29 AM
Well, I don't know squat about these dynohubs, it appears. For proof, see this article:


Net, ya gotta use a keeper...

MISC:   S3C Sturmey Archer reassembly hangup posted by: Robert on 11/5/2001 at 2:30:25 PM
Going throug ha S3C SA coaster brake hub. First time into a coaster brake model. All went well. Buttoned it up. Pull indicator chain all the way out (low gear) turn sprocket all is well, move to middle position (2nd gear) turn sprocket, looking good, release indicator chain for high gear , turn sprocket , everything is locked up solid. Anyone have problem like this? What should I look for when I go back inside?


ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Roadster WANTED posted by: Nicola Lucchi on 11/5/2001 at 1:14:11 AM
I need some information about the Raleigh Roadster. I'm looking for one of this bike also a new one (a "remake"). Here in Italy, someone told me that these kind of bikes have not been made in England for several years. During a travel in Africa I saw some very similar bike. Could you tell me if my information are right and where is possible to find a new one or a similar one. But if you have an original one.....THANKS

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Roadster WANTED posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 11/5/2001 at 4:56:39 PM
These show up on e- bay auction all the time. The origonal made in Nottingham, England Raleigh Roadster D.l.1. with the 28 inch wheels and rod brakes. Folks post here when they have these for sale too.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Roadster WANTED posted by Nicola Lucchi on 11/6/2001 at 10:24:55 AM
Thanks....Someone Know if is made also a "Replica" of this model?

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Roadster WANTED posted by Jacob on 11/7/2001 at 9:38:19 AM
Nicola, here is what you are looking for:

These bikes are not made in Nottingham, England, but they are official Raleigh products.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Roadster WANTED posted by Jorge on 11/8/2001 at 3:09:32 PM

Nicola, also try: http://www.Pashley.co.uk/
they still sort of make the original, and they are “Made in England”

and Kronan:

Umberto Dei from Italia also makes a fine looking traditional roadster,
(have no address)

Happy cycling

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Roadster WANTED posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 11/8/2001 at 6:30:11 PM
It's time for me to learn some other languages! What is that, Dutch? Nice bike

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Roadster WANTED posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 11/8/2001 at 6:30:25 PM
It's time for me to learn some other languages! What is that, Dutch? Nice bike

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Roadster WANTED posted by Jacob on 11/9/2001 at 12:51:57 PM
The languages on these sites are:
and Swedish

The Kronan is from Sweden, where it has been produced for some 40 years.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Roadster WANTED posted by Jorge on 11/9/2001 at 1:35:31 PM
... & English

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Roadster WANTED posted by Jacob on 11/9/2001 at 2:34:39 PM
...the other languages but english...

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Roadster WANTED posted by Jorge on 11/12/2001 at 3:30:18 PM
and now for the English version: http://www.kronancycle.com/

+ International version: http://www.kronan.com/

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Wartime Raleigh posted by: Jeff on 11/5/2001 at 12:29:49 AM
Which year was it that Raleigh started using the wartime parts on thier bikes? (Blackout hardware, war grade tyres, etc..)