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Archived: English Roadsters

FOR SALE:   Raleigh Colt posted by: paul nisula on 12/5/2001 at 1:51:08 AM
I have a Raleigh Colt for sale, small frame but 26X1 and 3/8 Raleigh Pattern rippled steel rims. Needs new tires, bicycle is ratty but restorable. Frame is decent but fenders are poor, has the wrong saddle but I'll include mattress saddle of same vintage. SA TCWIII 3 speed coaster
brake $90 or offer

   RE:FOR SALE:   Raleigh Colt posted by Albert on 12/5/2001 at 12:09:07 PM
Paul, just curious; but, how did you arrive at that price? I assume the asking price encludes shipping and packing costs.

AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh DL1 on Ebay & others posted by: Tom on 12/4/2001 at 4:03:14 AM
Check out the Raleigh DL1 on ebay 1043111519. Nice bike with 28" wheels and rod brakes.
Another nice bike, a Benotto 1043331732.
Also an Indian Scout frame lightweight 1043224977. Who made this bike, what wheels and is it a Sturmey Archer rear hub that belongs on it? What year would it be?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh DL1 on Ebay & others posted by DBean on 12/4/2001 at 2:44:15 PM
A $127.50 bid failed to make the reserve on the DL-1 over the weekend. Maybe the seller has lowered it this time around.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh DL1 on Ebay & others posted by Jeff Ray on 12/4/2001 at 10:12:11 PM
The Indian was made by Phillips and had Dunlop 26 inch EA3 1-3/8 rims and came with a Sturmey Archer 3 or 4 speed hub. They were sold at Indian Motocycle dealers. They also made a 26 in ladies called a Princess a 24 in boys called a Brave and a 28 in mens called a Chief. They were made from the late 40's to about 1960. I got the serial number from the seller and that one would be about 1955.

AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh LTD SC posted by: dave on 12/3/2001 at 7:40:52 PM
I picked up a mens Raleigh LTD SC over the weekend. This is the single speed SA hub with the coaster brake -- but what difference, if any, is there in the LTD and the Sports frames?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh LTD SC posted by Cal on 12/4/2001 at 1:26:39 PM
"SC" does mean coaster hub.
The LTD was a lesser model when compared to a Sports.

FOR SALE:   Winter Specials posted by: VVVintage Vintage Bicycles, Inc. at OldRoads.com on 12/3/2001 at 3:33:18 PM
We've added more bicycles and parts and set "winter" prices on some bicycles and parts.

Click on "Bicycles and Parts For Sale" at the top of this page.

VVVintage Vintage Bicycles, Inc.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Bottle generator voltage questions posted by: Robert on 12/3/2001 at 1:49:07 PM
Looking around for a light and generator set that would look "ok" on my '64 Dunelt. In my search I am coming across generators of both voltages. One says 12 v other 6v. Is there an advantage to getting one or the other? Are 12v bulbs easier to locate? Lights brighter?


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Bottle generator voltage questions posted by VVVintage Vintage Bicycles, Inc. at OldRoads.com on 12/3/2001 at 3:40:17 PM
Not sure if the 12 volt is brighter than the 6 volt, but I can tell you we carry the "correct" bottle generator set for your Dunelt.

Check out the NOS (Brand New, Old Stock) Miller generators we sell near the bottom of this page (part number Z1M1): http://oldroads.com/nos_misc.asp

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Bearing sizes posted by: Robert on 12/3/2001 at 1:43:42 PM
ON a previous post the headset bearings for a '56 Humber were listed as 5/32. Would a '64 Dunelt have the same size bearings?

Are bottom bracket bearings 1/4" on Dunelt?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Bearing sizes posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 12/6/2001 at 1:38:28 AM
Yes, the headset takes 25 5/32 loose bearings in the top and bottom race.
The bottombracket takes 1/4 size loose balls

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Bearing sizes posted by Robert on 12/6/2001 at 3:12:52 AM
Thanks Christopher. I wanted to pick them up and have them when I tore into it rather than tearing it down and going to get them.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Bearing sizes posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 12/6/2001 at 9:52:17 PM
Don't forget new cotter pins while you are there. The 9.5 English cotter pins not the French size.
Ask them if they will allow you to go with them to take a look thru the drawers of parts in the back room. They may or may not let you do that but it never hurts to ask! You are looking for Raleigh bottombracket parts, spindles, Sturmey Archer tail lights, dynohub wiring, Complete boxed (new) old parts or bit parts like lenses, indicator chains, e.t.c.
Ask them specifically for this or that, whatever you are looking for. If they look at you like they don't know what you are talking about then ask to look with the person for it. Tell them you can recognize what you need. Bring enough funds in case you hit a casche of vintage parts by chance

FOR SALE:   BIKE REPAIRMAN RETIRING: HUGE LOT F/S posted by: Fred Trost on 12/2/2001 at 10:30:08 AM
50-year inventory of all kinds of used bicycles and parts for sale--recumbents, 3-wheelers, adult pedal cars, odd and unusual bikes, wacky clown bikes for parade use, 800 wheels, box after box of parts. Everything must go. Will sell all or any part for best offer. No email; call 1-765-429-8300 or write to Fred Trost, 916 S. 20th St., Lafayette, IN. 47905.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Nice Sprite on the Bay.... posted by: Warren on 12/2/2001 at 2:23:57 AM
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1042041235 will take you to a mint Raleigh. Nice B-72...colour correct rack...real shiny! It's something I haven't seen. It's supposed to be '67 5-speed Sprite with EA3 wheels. I did not know that they came in that size...and where are the shifters for that damned internal hub. There looks to be a derailleur shifter on the downtube...or am I smoking something...

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Nice Sprite on the Bay.... posted by sam on 12/2/2001 at 4:10:12 AM
Warren,I have a raleigh built hercules sold through AMF with the 26" wheels in the 5 speed with a derailer(not internal hub).Sold in the 60s.The shifter is in the same place(brassed on)That one sure looks like an internal hub in the photo but not sure.--sam

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Nice Sprite on the Bay.... posted by sam on 12/2/2001 at 4:16:57 AM
One more Warren,check out ebay#1039687200 it's a track bike with a lot of english parts.I'm sure you would know more than I--come to think of it anyone would know more about track bikes than me-----sam

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Nice Sprite on the Bay.... posted by Warren on 12/2/2001 at 1:56:56 PM
Sweet... all the alloy stuff is probably added on but could easily be made period again. I would be a nice restoration project. It would be nice to see the other pics.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Nice Sprite on the Bay.... posted by dave on 12/3/2001 at 7:40:35 PM
I have an identical Sprite ... it has the plastic downtube shifters Sheldon recommends replacing as they break if not kept very well lubricated. Very cool bikes. Mine is too small for me (21"). Contact me off list if interested in buying.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Nice Sprite on the Bay.... posted by ALBERT on 12/3/2001 at 7:41:34 PM

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Nice Sprite on the Bay.... posted by Cal on 12/4/2001 at 1:28:52 PM
I thought the five speed derailleur Sprites had 27" (Sprite 27)?

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Nice Sprite on the Bay.... posted by Warren on 12/5/2001 at 1:44:58 AM
That's what I thought...

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Correct gips on a 1950 Raleigh Sports Tourist posted by: John on 12/2/2001 at 12:50:08 AM
I own a black 1950 Raleigh Sports Tourist Model 23 that I bought new in 1950. Years ago the original grips cracked and I replaced them with non-Raleigh grips. I would like to find a pair of the original type that would have come with the bike. I also own a 1952 Raleigh Sports Tourist that still has the original grips on it. They are grey blimp-shaped grips with R/I in a circle. However, I have a feeling that the original grips that came on the 1950 were a different type from those on the 1952. Can anyone tell me what are the correct original grips for the 1950 bike? Thanks for your help.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Correct gips on a 1950 Raleigh Sports Tourist posted by Jorge on 12/3/2001 at 3:26:09 AM
Check out on ebay
nos Raleigh vintage bicycle grips
Item # 1041307101

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   I have two more Ralieghs and a new saddle posted by: Frank on 12/2/2001 at 12:23:30 AM
well i found 2 more Ralieghs to hang in the shop...ones a coaster one speed Hercules/Raleigh/AMF the other is a LTD-3
in nice riding order ect the seat is after market BMX (I know i have a load of these useless seats) and schwinn cubby grips and rims..the 3 speed hub is newer than all my others, while picking up the bike i was talking about my Faclon and a guy gave me a nice saddle made in France T-B BIM 5...the post clamp is marked IDEALE i know nothing of the saddle...but its in nice shape.


ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Crunchy sound from hub posted by: Dewane on 12/1/2001 at 8:25:12 PM
Hi, I went for a ride today in the rain on my '62 Dunelt. Walking the bike up the stairs, I heard an unusual sound from my AW. It sounded kind of crunchy, if that makes any sense. It was most definitely coming from the sprocket side of the hub, and the sound seems to be in parallel with the pawls ticking. My first guess was a grain of sand between the sprocket and the hub, but after oiling the sprocket, hub, and looking at everything, I don't think that's what it is. Any help would be much appreciated.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Crunchy sound from hub posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 12/1/2001 at 9:50:40 PM
Read everything you can find on servicing an A.W.Sturmey- Archer 3 speed hub and then open up the hub and have a look at inside it using a trouble shooting guide in your book.
A used book store will have bike books that cover the Sturmey Archer. Sheldon Brown has a web page and Harris Cyclery sells replacement parts. http://www.Sheldonbrown.com
Or you can pull out the rear wheel and take it in the bike shop but finding one that can work on a Sturmey hub these days is getting more dificult. Something has gone awry but without seeing, it is hard to say.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Crunchy sound from hub posted by Mikeq on 12/2/2001 at 12:35:29 AM
Persons-Majestic Co (www.permaco.com) is the warranty center for Sturmey in the U.S. You can download Sturmey technical data from their website. You might give them a try. I've found them quite helpful over the years, although I haven't used them since SunRace took over.

AGE / VALUE:   item#1041908246 posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 12/1/2001 at 4:46:51 PM
There is a Sturmey Archer A.S.C. trigger on e- bay.
Not my auction, no relation to seller.
These are difficult to find and we hear about people looking for these but a starting price of 70.00 for a trigger? I don't know what to say.

MISC:   WHEN and WHY? posted by: GMP on 12/1/2001 at 5:44:35 AM
SA AW. Threaded driver. Gun metal finish on driver, sprocket, L.H. ball cup and R.H. ball ring. Black painted shell. No date. 'PATENT' is the only other print on the shell besides the standard SA trademark. Unfortunately the axle nuts appear to be replaced. No wheel. When and why?

   RE:MISC:   WHEN and WHY? posted by GMP on 12/1/2001 at 7:15:24 AM
That wasn't very clear. What I was trying to ask was when did SA make a black-out hub and why did they do it. I am sort of assuming it was during the war, but if this is so was it military or general sale?

   RE:RE:MISC: WHEN and WHY? posted by Dewane on 12/1/2001 at 8:23:25 PM
I believe that chrome wasn't used because the metals that made up chromium were required for the war effort, and shouldn't be wasted on bicycles. As for whether or not military bikes had chrome, I leave that to the more learned ones here, but my first guess would be no.

   RE:MISC:   WHEN and WHY? posted by Jeff on 12/2/2001 at 12:09:14 AM
I have a wartime Raleigh with a S/A hub on it but the shell is still chrome. Only the hardware is black. No dates anywhere on the shell. I have a few American bikes that were made during the war. These have a lot of "blackout" hardware (Bars, pedals, hubs, cranks..) and tires made from regenerated rubber.

   RE:RE:MISC:   WHEN and WHY? posted by Jorge on 12/3/2001 at 4:01:59 AM

Pashley today builds a Roadster with black S/A hubs and 28 x 1 1/2" black enamelled Westwood rims and black spokes.

   RE:MISC:   WHEN and WHY? posted by Geoff Rogers on 12/6/2001 at 2:37:44 AM
S-A hubs made in the 30's and into the erly 40's were, in fact, dated, but with a different method to the postwar hubs. Look for one digit stamped in the long, narrow triangle beneath the "Sturmey Archer" trademark. That's the last digit of the year it was made. I have two of these from 1940, and they both have a "0" in that place. Earlier S-A hubs also had a date digit; my 1935 Dawn Tourist hub is stamped "KB5". That means it's a KB type hub, made in '35. Postwar hubs had the month and last two digits of the year of manufacture stamped outside the S-A trademark.
I am surprised nobody else has offered this information.

   RE:MISC:   WHEN and WHY? posted by GMP on 12/8/2001 at 2:32:58 AM
Thanks for the input guys. Dewane, I had thought of your notion of wartime restrictions on materials etc., but I have seen other wartime bikes with standard hubs. Perhaps it is like the U.S. '43 steel penny, but I would have thought they would have used something other than brass for the oiler if this were the motivation, as brass is critical in munitions production. The thing that perplexes me most is that the steel components( sprocket, LH ball cup, driver) are 'blued', or dyed black if you will, which seems to be to make it darker than usual. This I have never seen before. As per the dating, Geoff, I am aware of the various date codes, but this one has absolutely no numbers on it other than the '40' hole stamp on the flange. Thus I am at a loss. Keep an eye peeled for one of these things on a bike that might shed a bit more insight into what the deal is, because the one I have was not laced up, and in the very back of a drawer in a bike shop that was cleaning house..... And I should add that I have no doubt that the way this hub is finished is the way it left the factory.

AGE / VALUE:   Sorry I asked, sorry to hear that it happened. posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 11/30/2001 at 4:28:29 PM
I noticed the shop sticker on a pal's "new" old bike. I 'd never heard of this place but it wasn't far from us so I asked what the story with that shop was. The history, who owned it, what they sold there. I was told that the owner passed away and the son took it over and then he moved the shop before going crazy(breakdown and hospital stay)
I listened in disbelief, not expecting to hear this! Usually and hopefully the people retire and sell out and move. When I asked about one fellow in one of my books, I was told that he died all alone without any of his friends paying visits or being of any help. He went on to say that he would have enjoyed talking to me but I hadn't met him and I was too late as usual.
The tales you hear, things you see in chasing old bikes are something.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Sorry I asked, sorry to hear that it happened. posted by Keith on 11/30/2001 at 8:38:24 PM
A few years ago what had been the biggest and best bike shop in town went out of business. The owner was a great supporter of cycling in central Ohio since before the 70s bike boom, sponsering young racers and giving them rides to out-of-state race locations, and generally stocking all of the best European goodies in addition to the standard Schwinn fare. It's the shop where I got my first real road bike, a Gitane Interclub, in 1970, and later a Mercian Professional and Peugeot track bike, both of which I still own. I went to the auction after the store closed but left, feeling like it was a feeding frenzy of vultures. Before the store closed, I passed up a chance to but two vintage bikes from the owner's personal collection: a Wastyn Paramount, and a pre-Raleigh Hercules club bike with flip-flop rear hub. I still kick myself for letting them go -- they went cheap! After the shop closed, some local riders talked about doing an appreciation dinner or something, but it never got off the ground. But I still see the the owner at the local grocery store now and then, and we talk bikes.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Sorry I asked, sorry to hear that it happened. posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 12/1/2001 at 4:40:47 PM
Watching the habits of the vultures in your living room following the death of a family member is like getting salt rubbed into fresh wounds. It's the reason why many people just throw everything out and there never is a sale or auction at all.

AGE / VALUE:   Ebay Item # 1038287705 posted by: Ben on 11/30/2001 at 2:29:00 AM
Can someone tell me why this item sold for only $28.00????


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Ebay Item # 1038287705 posted by Warren on 11/30/2001 at 4:48:02 AM
It's a fair price (to me) IF there is some kind of guarantee that it works. The bearings should also be good. I have two of these in my basement...they work and I would sell them for $ 30 US each plus shipping. They are heavy and will be a little "dear" to ship.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Ebay Item # 1038287705 posted by Ed on 11/30/2001 at 1:50:00 PM
I paid $31.00 shipped from Canada to Va.USA just last month.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Ebay Item # 1038287705 posted by DBean on 11/30/2001 at 2:08:03 PM
Dynohubs are notoriously iffy sight-unseen purchases. They VERY often have weak magnets, maybe from careless disassembly, and they produce insufficient current for good lights. This one was also 32 holes; the most common variety. Ric Hjertberg in Palo Alto has a machine for remagnetizing Dynohubs, but I have no first-hand knowledge of its effectiveness. His email address is ehjertberg@yahoo.com

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Ebay Item # 1038287705 posted by Ben on 11/30/2001 at 2:37:15 PM
Well, I had no idea they were so reasonable. I was thinking of adding one to my Phillips if I can find another Dunlop rim. But I swear I saw a NOS kit with lights go for >$200.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Ebay Item # 1038287705 posted by sam on 11/30/2001 at 3:18:04 PM
Ben,I have one Dunlop rim(wheel)for a 26"x1&3/8" if it's what you need.

   Warren please email me posted by Robert on 11/30/2001 at 3:29:38 PM
Warren please email me about the dynohubs you have.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Ebay Item # 1038287705 posted by DBean on 11/30/2001 at 4:03:06 PM
That NOS one for $200 was 36 holes and was the whole kit with box and lights and everything. Since it was so obviously new, it probably worked correctly and had good bearings.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Ebay Item # 1038287705 posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 11/30/2001 at 4:26:15 PM
With these bakelite models the terminal screws are not all that strong, so one has to be careful. I guess because it looked used and was not accompinied by the lights and wiring.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Ebay Item # 1038287705 posted by Bill Putnam on 11/30/2001 at 6:39:18 PM
If the dynohub is in good operating condition they can
provide adequate light for being seen by other traffic.
I have a dynohub which Jobst Brandt remagnetized for me
(I believe his machine is dissassembled at this time)
and this works well with a bulb I purchased from
Reflectalite in England http://www.reflectalite.com/lightmodel.html
This is their GH107 bulb. It is rated at 1.5W 5.5 V
and with their X1 dynamo regulator I have the following
voltage at speed with 700 X 28 C tires:
Speed(mph) Voltage
8 4.0
10 4.8
12 5.2
14 5.5
16 5.8
18 6.0

I am told by reflectalite that this bulb can be used with
a standard 6V 0.6W taillight but I haven't tried that.

With a good headlamp unit this bulb/hub combination works
surprisingly well. It's much brighter than the original
vacuum bulbs.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Ebay Item # 1038287705 posted by DBean on 11/30/2001 at 6:51:28 PM
The Jobst Brandt machine is the same as Ric Hjertberg's and was [apparently] ready to go 3 weeks ago when I contacted Ric. I'm glad to see a testimonial! BTW, I use a Lumotec 2.4W halogen lamp and it gives a narrow beam that lights up bumps adequately on the unlighted bike path.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Ebay Item # 1038287705 posted by Bill Putnam on 11/30/2001 at 7:30:22 PM

Are you using a 2.4W bulb in your Lumotec with a Dynohub?
If so you would probably get more light output with the
GH107. I tried a 2.4W bulb with the Dynohub and it would
not get even close to the rated voltage at any reasonable
bicycling speeds. As a bulb's efficiency decreases
drastically when run below it's nominal voltage, using a
standard 2.4W bulb with a Dynohub will not provide much

I have used systems in the past where I rectified the
output from a dynohub and used this to maintain the charge
in a 6V gel cell driving a 2.4W bulb. This worked pretty
well assuming I didn't have too much time with the light
on vs. off.

Bill Putnam

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Ebay Item # 1038287705 posted by Ben on 12/1/2001 at 4:29:59 PM
Sam: the rim I need is a 28" Dunlop, OEM for my Phillips.

Thank you to everyone for all this info, I ride this bike everywhere and would like to strike a balance between functional and historically accurate lighting...