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Archived: English Roadsters

FOR SALE:   Hub gear wheels, etc. posted by: Jason on 1/31/2001 at 11:59:04 AM
Approximately 100 used wheels, including Sturmey Archer, BSA, Brampton and Hercules gear hubs. Also miscellaneous front and rear wheels from various styles of bikes.

$200 for the entire lot. Pick up in Pawtucket, RI (I will not ship this large a quantity of stuff).

   RE:FOR SALE:   Hub gear wheels, etc. posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 1/31/2001 at 12:14:09 PM
Wow!! Oh, I'd love to see these all and load them into the truck!! But it is too far for me and so will somebody please go and get these? Somebody? Anybody? Don't let these get put out at the trash?
I hope some of these are Alloy shelled hubs and it is possible that some of these are four speeds too! He didn't say if they were all three speeds did he? This comes out to 2.00 a wheel! Can't beat that with a stick! Perhaps stainless spokes too.

Somebody get them and tell us all about it.

AGE / VALUE:   unusual ladies 28" posted by: Paul on 1/31/2001 at 10:13:39 AM
Another bike with no name.!920s or earlier, has 2 supports in C frame, 2 little cotters under the crank case on frame, and an odd 1/2" button on the top right hand side of the steering head of the frame.It has an eadie coaster rear hub, the front hub and the cranks just say patent. 28" rims. No front brake. Any ideas?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   unusual ladies 28 posted by Warren on 1/31/2001 at 11:24:47 AM
It's possible that the frame was designed to accept a rod brake linkage as well as being sold as a single speed model. I've seen one of these before.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   unusual ladies 28 posted by ChristopherRobin on 1/31/2001 at 11:53:32 AM
This is a cool find. I have seen these bolt fitted bottom bracket before only once. I don't know what purpose it is for exactly. Have fun with it.

AGE / VALUE:   raliegh rod brake bike for sale! posted by: Michael on 1/31/2001 at 9:50:44 AM
I have a RALIEGH rod brake bike for sale. It is in good shape all equipment is ther it has a one speed freewheel rear wheel. any reasonable ofer will not be refused! I also have a bunch of UNIROYAL TOURING 24x1.25 or 24x1.375 tires that are brend new. They say they fit american hooked rims. Gotta sell them taking up too much space right now.

MISC:   You are correct sir! (and ma'am) posted by: Dewane on 1/31/2001 at 8:25:25 AM
After lurking here for a few years now, and posting a few newbie questions, I finally bought an English Roadster.

I bought a '71 Raleigh Sports from American Cyclery in San Francisco. Just rode it to work today - and I didn't even need studded tires - one nice thing about living on the left coast.

Sheldon and everybody else was right, these bikes are not for kids. I used to ride a 3 speed Schwinn Collegiate and even though the frame size and setup is the same, the feeling of the two bikes is totally different. This bike does feel more "stately", as somebody wrote here. The feeling is undefinable but it's there. This bicycle was not made to throw newspapers out of.

I'm not enought of an egoist to think that my actions are very important, but I thought I'd let this group of folks know, you are all correct. These bikes are great. And I'm not being paid for this, but American Cyclery (and Bradley who works there) is a great store also, I recommend it for anybody in the San Francisco Bay Area.

I'm glad I found this corner of the world.

   RE:MISC:   You are correct sir! (and ma'am) posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 1/31/2001 at 12:39:36 PM
These brakes are diffrent and you will need a little while to get used to the way this bike handles. This will not stop on a dime like a V-brake bike. On the handlebar where the two rod leavers fit there are bolts where the leavers fit through, These need a drop of oil on them. Do not loosen the nut and move the rod linkage about if you do not have to. These are tricky to adjust if you are new to these kind of brakes. A wonderful bike. I wish you lots of enjoyment out of it.

Yes, the brake pads with the chromed leather inserts that Sheldon sells are a bit pricy, but these have been pricy everywhere for some time now and they are well worth it!

   RE:RE:MISC:   You are correct sir! (and ma'am) posted by Keith on 2/2/2001 at 8:17:25 AM
Since it's a 1971 Sports, and not a DL-1 Tourist, it will have the standard cable operated sidepull brakes, and the leather pads and above instructions are for rod brakes. If you study and follow Sheldon Brown' advice on caring for your bike, you'll find your British iron will serve you well for many years, and maybe even several generations.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   You are correct sir! (and ma'am) posted by Dewane on 2/2/2001 at 4:34:20 PM
That's correct, it's a Sports. I'm going to get some light oil, probably sewing machine oil, for the hub. Bradley didn't have any Brooks Proofide, but the seat was pretty dry, and some Lexol rubbed in worked very well for the B72 seat. But I'm pretty sure you all know that, although I remember a bunch or questions on what to use for oiling the hub a while back. The cable brakes work fine, just drag them a bit in the rain. And I did wipe it down after I came home from riding it in the rain (the all steel bicycle and all). I'd recommend this bike as a commuter if you don't have too many hills in your commute.

   RE:MISC:   You are correct sir! (and ma'am) posted by jim on 2/2/2001 at 5:03:03 PM
Welcome ! This (for the most part) is the most civil group of enthusiast-riders. Sheldon Brown of Harris Cyclery is the unofficial Mayor of this community, a modern Ben Franklin if you will, to whom we all owe thanks. (I'm not getting paid for this either) He has amazingly taken the time to answer so many questions - even my stupid ones. I'd still be in a staring contest with my 4 speed SA hub without his direction. His "Servicing English Three Speeds" is about all you'll ever need, but if you do require more, he's taken the time to put a quantity of information on his site that reflect's his passion for bicycling and specifically Epicyclic mechanicals. Make sweat, not smoke and Ride in good health...

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Rod Brake performance posted by: Nathan McBride on 1/31/2001 at 7:16:15 AM
I have a Raleigh Tourist (mid-70's?) which I'm planning to use as a commuter bike come spring. I'd like to know how to extract the best possible stopping power from the rod brakes. I'm not too concerned with keeping the bike original (already has toeclips on pedals, etc.) but I like the rods and would be interested to know of a source for replacement pads which might be stickier than the originals. Thanks--I'm new to the site and glad to find it!

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Rod Brake performance posted by Bill Putnam on 1/31/2001 at 10:36:22 AM
To get the best service out of rod brakes, make sure
all the linkages are straight. The rods can get bent,
intentionally or otherwise, and then rather than transferring
the force along the axis of the rod, the rod takes up
precious braking energy in bending. Next get your wheels
as true as possible-in this instance not only side to side
but up and down. Make sure that the pads are adjusted as
close as possible to the rim.

I'm not a great fan of rod brakes for commuting. Most of
the rims that work with them are steel, and steel is not
good for braking in the wet. If your local bike shop does
not carry replacement pads, Harris Cyclery has nice EXPENSIVE
pads, or standard cheap ones

Bill Putnam

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Rod Brake performance posted by Paul MN on 2/1/2001 at 9:41:26 AM
I pulled this from the archives for your benefit Nathen. Good luck and happy trails. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Raleigh DL-1 (Tourist) Brakes
Entered on: Jun 5, 1998 09:36
Entered by: Paul (randa@lakenet.com)
So Dan has been having fun bending his bicycle and is now ready to play with his brakes. Please keep in mind that the following are my own thoughts on the subject and are not backed by any official service information. Patience and the persuit of one objective will give a Tourist wonderful brakes. Tuning the mechanical linkage so the power applied to the hand lever is not waisted flexing linkage parts and wheel rims. Proper adjustment is indicated at the hand lever with the bike standing still. - When released there should be no looseness of the levers. Lever stops should be against handlebar lug. - Squeeze of the lever must feel solid when pads meet rims after modest, smooth free travel. If there's a mushy feeling, thats the power of your hand being unnecessarily waisted. Not stopping your bicycle. If levers wiggle when released one or more problems exist. 1. Linkage needs oil at pivot points and stirrup guides. 2. Small slot head bolts with square locknut (4 of) on bellcranks adjusted too tight and binding. 3. Rear stirrup rubbing against kickstand mount (deal with the kickstand, you CANNOT bend linkage rod around stand to get clearance). 4. End of stirrup touches brake guide clip (back off guide clip). If brake application gives indefinite spongy response after dealing with the above problems its time to check the following. A. Linkage rods are bent. B. Brake pads are not touching both sides of the rim at the same time. Instead of going into tedious discription, I would like to put accross a few facts about these brake systems that the guy at the store who set the bike up didn't realize, or, didn't have the time to deal with. It's quite possible that the brakes on your DL-1 have not been operating correctly since the bike was new. A mechanical linkage requires parts to be able to move freely, so, adjust those little bolts on the bellcrank with the little square locknuts. Where steel is moving against steel a DROP of any lubrication smooths the action, especially for releasing. The spring action of the stirrups at the guides aid retraction as much as the coil springs up at the handle bars. Anywhere this is bent or has a kink is where there will be a power waisting flex. Lot's of braking power is lost if both brake pads don't touch the rim at the same time. These are not self centering brakes. Just think. If only one pad hits, you have to squeeze tighter to get the wheel to warp over untill the rim hits the other pad. All that energy gone into bending the wheel instead of stopping. Many Tourist are running with front brake pads in front of the stirrup. You will get a big increase in braking power if the pads are flipped so they are behind the stirrup. This way the pads bite into the rim instead of being pushed away from it. To do this the pads and their little arms need to be alternated, also,the guide clips and stirrup have to be lowered. If there's a bad low spot in your front rim, fix the rim or the surge will annoy you, or worse. Tighten the headset. Never let oil or solvent get on the brake pad's. Everybody has their own tricks for dealing with straightening or adjusting their DL-1. Sheffield steel responds very well to bending. I'm not above using a big rubber mallet for taking dings or flat spots out of rims. A plastic mallet backed up by a block of wood for getting kinks and bend out of rods. A 15 inch crescent wrench for straightening cranks. The bolts for the guide clips are so soft that they strip if worked too much. I just tighten these clips in their favorite position, then whack em over to where I want the stirrup positioned. "The all steel bicycle". What a gas!

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Rod Brake performance posted by Keith on 2/2/2001 at 8:26:22 AM
I've followed these kinds of instructions and fiddled and tuned my brakes, but I'm with Bill -- if you are going to ride in heavy traffic, or very wet weather, rod brakes are not the best choice. Get a Sports type bike with sidepull brakes for these conditions (hands down they are the best commuting-city bikes ever -- stable, nimble enough, reliable, good upright position for looking over traffic, can shift gears when stopped, etc.).

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Rod Brake performance posted by Kevin C. on 2/2/2001 at 9:14:25 AM
I agree with Keith--stick to a Sports with cable brakes if you're going to be in traffic or making quick stops. The Tourists are great on bike paths and along lanes where there are few cars, but rod brakes leave me a little cold in crunch time.

FOR SALE:   Rod Brake 24" Dunelt posted by: Jim on 1/30/2001 at 8:26:15 PM
Anyone interested in a 24" Dunelt Front rod brake bike. Single speed coaster on rear. Chrome is fair, the paint is original. Email with questions bikeyard@mindspring.com. Photo at http://bikeyard.home.mindspring.com/dunelt

AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh fork thimble crowns posted by: ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 1/30/2001 at 2:34:52 PM
I have a Raleigh fork that has been re-painted and I need to put in a set of "fork thimble crowns". These are the cup shaped, thin, easily damaged, press fitted, little decorative pieces that fit into Raleigh's famed tubular forks. I have a old fork I am willing to sacrifice. I have not figured out a way to remove these without ruining them.
For the heck of it, I stoped in at a collision shop and asked how they could be removed. 3 hours later after every man had looked it over and they discussed it over lunch the fellow handed it back to me and said "Forget it, it can't be done."

This fork came to me without the crowns and this is too old/funky/rare to simply replace the fork.
I am thinking of cutting the fork apart and then sealing up the back side of the thimble and then usng compressed air to drive them out. These will not stand a punch as they dent in and are ruined. I am wondering if I can apply heat to the fork and maybe the piece I want to salvage will loosen up and come out.
These are press fit and Raleigh used a long lost special tool to put them in.
It is annoying with all the odd things I manage to scare up that I never have gotten a set of fork thimble crowns. These are so fragile that I'm hesitant to attempt to have these re-finished.

I am not sure that these are exactly the same size down thru the years that Raleigh made this fork. These will fit and work ok, if I can get them transplanted. The Raleigh fork is beautiful! the thimble crowns in my 1949 and 1954 Raleigh Record Ace machines have these brightly finished and beautifully polished. Im leaving these alone but I suspect that the re-sprayers would have left these in place and painted around them.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh fork thimble crowns posted by Jon on 1/30/2001 at 5:55:06 PM
There's no doubt you will bend the edge of the thimbles when you remove them. It can be done by gently tapping on a sharp, curved blade (like you might find on a pair of curved pruning shears)between the thimble and the fork. The trick then is to tap them back on with a small hammer and a block of wood flat against the rim of the thimble. Once the thimble is seated, a few more taps will flatten the rim against the fork. Heating the fork to remove them is out. You will probably overheat them and they'll turn blue. And it would probably take quite a bit of air pressure even if you can get it sealed up well enough. Definitly don't stand in front of it if you use air! Also I don't think I've seen a lot of these rusted, they may be stainless steel.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh fork thimble crowns posted by Kevin on 1/30/2001 at 6:12:22 PM
How about getting some dry ice to put in the cups before trying to get them out. You might heat the forks first inthe oven at 125 deg. or so.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh fork thimble crowns posted by Paul R. on 1/31/2001 at 5:28:11 AM
Christopher Robin, I ran into the same problem with one of my Raleighs but I was able to carefully pry out a cup from a 1973 Sports that I saved from the dumpster. I got lucky and was able to use a small screwdriver to gently relieve the edge all the way around and then was able to slowly pry it out with minimal damage. Maybe the later Raleighs did not secure the cup quite so well as earlier ones. When I reinstalled it I tapped a ball peen hammer, with a diameter slightly larger than the cup, and resting on the cup, with another hammer which set the edges nicely in the fork crown. Of course now I have decided to make a project bike out of the 1973 dumpster Sports I would love to find a spare cup!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh fork thimble crowns posted by Bill Putnam on 1/31/2001 at 10:40:09 AM
If there is a way to seal off the inside end of the horizontal
tube (crown), you might try drilling and tapping a grease fitting
into the crown, and then use a grease gun to pop it out.
This is how I have extracted stuck wheel cylinders on old

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh fork thimble crowns posted by ChristopherRobin on 1/31/2001 at 12:43:33 PM
You were fortunate to have found one where you could get a thin screw driver in there and pry it out without damaging it! These are very fragile pieces. All of mine are flush and I cannot do this. I think that these are stainless also because I have never ever seen these fork inserts rust either.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh fork thimble crowns posted by Dale Oswald on 2/1/2001 at 9:15:48 AM
If you are willing to sacrifice the donor fork, I'd try cutting away metal with a Dremel tool and thin carbide wheel. You may only need to cut a line or you might need to remove a pie slice.

I'd double the discs on the mandrel, two together are still only about a mm thick and don't break as easily. ALWAYS USE SAFETY GLASSES WITH DREMEL CARBIDE WHEELS, they break very easily and make great projectiles.

Dremel tools with carbide wheels can solve a lot of mechanical problems. Cut new screwdriver slots in stripped screws. Cut the tabs off the linkage to modify operation of VW door locks. They split rusted nuts very nicely. With a small grinding wheel or wire wheel, you can clean out little pits in your car or bike paint for touchup. Good tool, don't know how I ever built models or fixed stuff without one.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh fork thimble crowns posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 2/1/2001 at 4:26:24 PM
Thanking everbody for the helpful comments

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh fork thimble crowns posted by Bill Putnam on 2/2/2001 at 7:48:43 AM
I checked an old bent up Raleigh fork and there is a small
vent hole in the horizontal crown "tube" that is located
in line with the fork (straight down along the axis of
the fork.) So if you cut the fork off just below the crown
there should be a small hole you can drill and tap to fit
a zerk fitting, then use a grease gun to force out the cup.
This of course ruins the fork so I would only do this if
the fork is truly unsalvagable (I have one of these from
a bike that was run over by a car...).

AGE / VALUE:   hand the shop people your card posted by: ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 1/30/2001 at 2:05:13 PM
As I drove home with the Hercules rod brake bike in the back I thought to myself "It pays to put little cards in the area shops" The fellow called me up and now it's mine.

MISC:   Need info on Shimano 3-speed hub posted by: Joe on 1/30/2001 at 7:27:17 AM
I am currently trying to restore an old 3-speed bike, a "light roadster" by Sheldon Brown's definition. The last time I had a 3-speed hub apart was when I was 17, and that was many moons ago. The problem is that instead of the typical English or French hub this one had to be Shimano. To that end I have not been able to find any information on the Net regarding this hub. It appears to be in working order, it freewheels fine, the pawls click, however, the axle feels a little dry when turned. Normally 3-speed hubs are just oiled. What I would like to know is whether there is a procedure for flushing the hub and then re-oiling or if it should be disassembled, inspected, cleaned and reassembled. Regardless of the answer to this question I am also searching for the diagrams for this hub should I encounter others that do require disassembly. I own Barnett's Manual - Third Edition and Sutherlands Handbook for Bicycle Mechanics - Sixth Edition, neither of which contain any information on 3-speed hubs, Shimano or otherwise.

On a secondary note I would also be interested in establishing a little history on the bike as a whole as well. The following is all the information I was able to determine from the bike:

Make: Venture
Model: Classic
Ser no: 120943
Tires: IRC Guaranty Roadster 26x1 3/8 (what type of tires will I be able to replace these with?)
Rims: UKAIRIM 26x1 3/8 w/o - steel
Hubs: front - SIW
rear - Shimano 3-speed
Cog: 18T

The information on the Shimano hub is laid out as follows:

U.S.A. Pat.3021728 G

I thank you for your time in advance and hope to hear from you soon

Many Thanks,

   RE:MISC:   Need info on Shimano 3-speed hub posted by Robert on 1/30/2001 at 8:47:36 AM
I'm going by memory on this , but I "believe" that the bike manual by Glenn has a breakdown on the Shirmano hubs. There are 2 on ebay presently going pretty cheap. These would cover older items. I'm not selling them , just an FYI.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Need info on Shimano 3-speed hub posted by ChristopherRobin on 1/30/2001 at 1:48:16 PM
A used bookstore is an excellent source for bicycle books.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Need info on Shimano 3-speed hub posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 1/30/2001 at 3:04:14 PM
If you get this opened up and you discover that you need parts and you are going to re-build it then e-mail me as I still have these Shimano hub parts with each little planet wheel held captive on little cards. I have a whole bag full of diffrent Shimano parts.
I never got into tinkering with Shimano hubs because I do not ride them. I have a few hubs, and have acess to more. I am hapilly in the Sturmey- Archer hub gear camp myself my favorite being the F.M. Every now and then, I go over the wall into Dancing Chain territory(derailurs)

I think I have Shimano diagrams I could send out to you if you hollar.

AGE / VALUE:   STURMEY ARCHER 3 SPEED REAR WHEELS posted by: THE BIKE DOCTOR on 1/30/2001 at 7:17:39 AM

AGE / VALUE:   FLEETWING 36 1 3/8 in posted by: THE BIKE DOCTOR on 1/30/2001 at 7:04:30 AM

AGE / VALUE:   Old Raleigh bikes posted by: Robert on 1/29/2001 at 9:54:38 PM
Okay guys take it easy on me now its late and I just came back from some dudes house where I picked up a 65 stingray and a 51 ladies ballooner higgins for under a hundred bucks. Not too shabby eh???? Well anyway this guy has what appears to be two Raleigh bikes as well. The first one he says is a 28" tire bike, I couldnt see it close enough as it was partially covered and too far away from me. This bike is in it's original black with all decals appearing to be intact. This has the rod brakes and three speed sturmey. The other bike is a shiny dark green color, lever brakes, I saw a nice brooks saddle on it too. I don't know anything about these bikes other than just the glance I took tonight. This guy said I could have them both for $ 150.00. I said I'd get back to him tomorrow. I realize I gave you a vague description, but is this a decent price ? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated guys, and thanks in advance !!!


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Old Raleigh bikes posted by Mark on 1/30/2001 at 5:19:19 AM
Hey! Get them! Well worth the money! Especialy the rod braker. Can I have it! :-)

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Old Raleigh bikes posted by Robert on 1/30/2001 at 6:01:54 PM
Are you serious, or pulling my leg? Sometimes people listing requests like mine are assumed bogus. This is not the case here. I going over to this guy's place tonight if he ever answers his darn phone. I was hoping there may have been a few more comments by others to help me out so I don't get stuck with bikes that I can't sell for any or much more than my investment. I hope someone reads this before my departure. Thanks again.


   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Old Raleigh bikes posted by Kevin C. on 1/30/2001 at 7:39:22 PM
You should be able to get $150 for the 28-inch Roadster alone, if the rims are good and it's complete.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Old Raleigh bikes posted by Robert on 1/30/2001 at 9:02:33 PM
Okay here's what I picked up tonight.

Black painted, rodded brake Raleigh "Tourist" I dont know how many speeds (I suppose 3) , but it's sturmey hub has 78 5 AW.

Green painted, Raleigh "Sports" 3 speed sturmey kickback brake has 74 4 s3c , with front hand brake. Bike sticker says made in England, but assembled in USA. Also has pump on the frame.

For a total of $ 200.00 he threw in a 5 speed sears spyder. So how did I do?


   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Old Raleigh bikes posted by red on 1/30/2001 at 10:33:01 PM
You did well! The tourist alone (as pointed out in another posting) is worth your purchase. The sports is a nice catch too. Especially with the S/A coaster brake hub. I'm not familiar with the spyder, but most old sears bikes are reliable enough to be used as winter bikes (here in Minnesota). If you want to part with the Tourist let me (or anyone here) know.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Old Raleigh bikes posted by Robert on 2/1/2001 at 4:39:37 PM
Thanks to all for the assist. After a gental cleaning I will be selling these bikes, so keep an eye open in the near future.


WANTED:   Prewar American lightweights posted by: Pete Husing on 1/28/2001 at 10:35:19 AM
I am looking for Prewar: Schwinn, Iver Johnson, and Manton and Smith English style bikes.
If you have any bikes, Parts or literature please contact me.

   RE:WANTED:   Prewar American lightweights posted by Wings on 1/28/2001 at 11:23:34 PM
Iver Johnson -- I grew up on that bike!!! I have only seen one in years and it is at a local bike shop -- complete with wooden rims. Great Bike! Good luck!

   RE:RE:WANTED:   Prewar American lightweights posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 1/29/2001 at 4:11:00 PM
Iver Johnson: Trust the Truss! One day I want to add one of these bicycles to the fleet.

   RE:RE:RE:WANTED:   Prewar American lightweights posted by ChristopherRobin on 2/1/2001 at 5:46:34 PM
The Iver Johnson bicycle not anything else they made. I'll leave that for somebody else.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Stopping with Rod Brakes posted by: Paul Raley on 1/27/2001 at 7:57:35 PM
For those of you with Dl-1's who are tired of dragging your heels trying to get the old dinosour to stop, you might consider trying to locate some Raleigh "Rain Check" brake pads. I noticed a marked improvement in braking on my rod braked bike after I installed them compared to the cheap asian imports that I had been using. The cheap pads did not seem to have the correct angular relationship to the rim and did not have much in the way of friction. The Rain Check pads are leather filled and contoured nicely to have full contact with the rim. I think that I could almost do a reverse wheelie now with the front brake although the rear is not quite as good (to much flexing in the linkgage I suspect). These pads may be the fancy ones that Sheldon sells although I bought mine off of ebay. Does anyone have experience with S/A drum brakes? I was thinking of building a bikes around a set of these brakes. They appear to have been moderately popular on sport/tourist bikes in the late 30's and 40's. They look cool but I wonder how they work?

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   3SC Hub posted by: Tim on 1/27/2001 at 12:14:19 PM
Hi I am a novice. Did the Hercules come with a shimano 3SC coaster brake or was it put on later. All I have ever dealt with are SA hubs on the roadsters. If so, can I date the bike?? Thanks in advance, Tim

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   3SC Hub posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 1/29/2001 at 9:10:31 AM
Hercules bicycles never came with Shimano hubs. They came with the Hercules version of the Sturmey-Archer AW three speed. These Hercules hubs were identical to the Sturmey-Archer with the exception being the Hercules hubs had the threaded drivers and cogs where as the Sturmey's had gone to the three lugged type. Also the Hercules hub shell was labeled up saying "Hercules Cycle and Motor" on it. The Hercules shifter trigger was diffrent bearing no resemblance to the Sturmey-Archer shifter. However they used the same exact style cable. Later on, Raleigh took over Hercules and they put the Hercules badge(nameplate) on the B-grade line of bikes leaving the Nottingham, England factory. The Raleigh made bicycles had the Sturmey-Archer shifters and hubs. Your bike has had the wheel switched as someone wanted a Shimano hub instead.
Origonal Hercules bicycles were made in Birmingham, England and the Raleigh made bicycles were made in Nottingham, England. The frames were diffrent and Raleigh did not use the older badges or decals.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   3SC Hub posted by ALBERT on 1/29/2001 at 11:54:09 AM
. I assume your hercules is British; there was a German brand of the same name in the 50's and 60's. They were usually painted a rather disgusting pearlecsent gray-pink. I also agree that the Shimano hub is not original to the cycle. I suspect a previous used a file to widen the axle slot in each of the dropouts from 7mm to 9mm. This would enable the Shimano hub to be installed. Check the slot for tell-tale file marks and missing paint. That said there is a small possibility that a SA version of the Perry single-speed coaster brake or a single speed freewheel came as original equipment. If so, the slot would have been 9mm at the time of manufacture and the file would not have been needed. I must say that you are quite fortunate to have the 3SC hub. It is a fine hub that I use on several of my bicycles. It is an all-weather brake that is far superior to the SA. The Shimano will not unexpectedly slip into freewheeling and the brake will never fail to apply; this cannot be said of the SA. May I add that I found it strange to be characterized as a "Shimano basher" by another contrbutor in an earlier posting.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   3SC Hub posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 1/29/2001 at 4:16:28 PM
I would like to see a German Hercules cycle one day even with the ugly paint. I didn't know that there was a German Hercules.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   3SC Hub posted by sam on 1/30/2001 at 7:28:55 AM
I picked up a Raleigh Clone made in India with the shimano 3-speed.The bike was labled Indian Cycle Limited.(not near as nice as a raleigh)--sam