This is an archive of Vintage Bicycle Information.
For current Discussions, go to our main site: OldRoads.com

If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.

If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.

Archived: English Roadsters

AGE / VALUE:   Phillips 3 speed 26 X 1 3/8 posted by: Don on 3/10/2001 at 8:06:05 PM
Hello, Another stray bicycle has followed me home. I have a couple of old Schwinns, but this one is a Phillips. i know nothing about it other than it is a 3 speed ladies bicycle, 26 X 13/8 tires. It has a Lion on the headbadge with the words "Phillips - Renound the world over - Birmingham". An exact copy of the headbadge is mounted on the rear fender.
I's all black with gold stripes "Phillips" is written in gold on the chainguard. "Made in England" is written in gold on the bar. The sprocket is made in such a way that it spells out "Phillips". The only clue about it's age is that there is a 1963 bicycle license tag on it.

I've tried the easy searches, I've looked on eBay.. no Phillips being sold there. I've also had no luck finding references to them here. Are that just not popular? Or are they like a Huffy... So popular that they are not worth noting.

Thanks for any info you can give me.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Phillips 3 speed 26 X 1 3/8 posted by Don on 3/10/2001 at 8:23:51 PM
Sorry about the poor spelling and impropper HTML code... I have a nasty head cold and I'm not up to my normal sub par self.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Phillips 3 speed 26 X 1 3/8 posted by Warren on 3/10/2001 at 8:36:02 PM
Phillips was a major marque in the English bike world. You have what is generally referred to as a Sports model. Raleigh was swallowing up most of the bike companies around the time your bike was made. Phillips was absorbed in 1960. One of the "trademarks" of Raleigh bikes was Made in England in gold writing on the downtube. Another is the position of the eyelets for the rear fender. If they are located directly behind the axle as opposed to above , then it is definitely a Raleigh-Phillips. There are other clues to look for...the little Sir Walter logo is often etched into stems and crankarms. Also the threadpitch of the bottom brackets are different than the rest of the world. However, this doesn't lessen the quality of the bike. Most English bikes of the period were very well made and with a little TLC will last another century. It sound like yours is in excellent condition and it is probably a nice ride to boot.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Phillips 3 speed 26 X 1 3/8 posted by Jeff on 3/11/2001 at 7:04:58 AM
Phillips bikes made in Birmingham were made by the origonal Phillips company. After Raleigh bought them up, the Raleigh - Phillips bikes say Nottingham on the head badge. also check the date on the hub.This will help date it. Does it have a shifter with a window for viewing the selected gear or a 1 2 3 etched onto the metal plate? The older ones came with a window.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Phillips 3 speed 26 X 1 3/8 posted by Don on 3/11/2001 at 8:05:28 AM
Thanks for the quick help!

The rear fender eyelets are above the axle. The 3 speed Sturmey Archer shifter has a window, and "L" "N" "H" appear in the window as it is shifted. The Sturmey Archer hub is dated, " 56 3 ". So I gather that this is a 1956.

Other points of interest are that the bike has a spring rack on the back, marked "Enlite Germany". It is made from hollow tubing, so it looks quite large. Also on the top of the fork, where we now have the clear reflectors, there is a chrome bracket shaped similar to the new reflecors, but it just has a "P" cut out of it. Could this be to hold a wicker handlebar basket upright, and keep the bottom of the basket from striking the area of the headbadge?

Now, what to do with this bike. I'll keep it until I have given it a good cleaning, and looked it over. I sometimes just enjoy having these oldies for a short while. Learning what I can about them, and moving on to the next one. I don't need another rider, niether does my wife. I already have a 1950 Schwinn skiptooth waiting for my daughter, and there is an antique homemade tandem waiting for my time. This is becoming a familiar pattern, I can't say no to these old bikes. Do any of you have the same problem? I'm also like this with old Coleman lanterns, but they don't take up nearly as much room.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Phillips 3 speed 26 X 1 3/8 posted by Jeff on 3/11/2001 at 11:35:50 AM
That little bracket with the "P" on it is to hold a headlight. The "P" stands for Phillips.


   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Phillips 3 speed 26 X 1 3/8 posted by Warren on 3/11/2001 at 11:58:25 AM
And if you don't want the bike, someone on the list may want to buy it. It would probably sell on ebay as well but that is a different game. If you don't have much money into it, you could flip it fairly quickly.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Phillips 3 speed 26 X 1 3/8 posted by Tamara on 3/14/2001 at 12:33:30 PM
I've been hankering for an English roadster in black, but the DL1s are a bit too big for me. Don, if you ever want to sell this bike, give me a holler -- beekeeper32@hotmail.com.

Thanks and good riding, everyone!


AGE / VALUE:   what is it? posted by: paulnz on 3/8/2001 at 4:58:06 PM
If you are looking at the old bike on e-bay 1118867274, 5th photo down.Whats the knob under the light bracket on the side of the frame. I've got one on a 1920's ladies bike, its spring loaded, but doesn't seem to do anything?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   what is it? posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 3/8/2001 at 5:36:09 PM
I don't believe this! I don't know! I honestly don't know! This is a marvelous cycle. One thing I do know is the Vetrans cycle club has a marque enthusist and that person would know. Very good question!

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   what is it? posted by Cal on 3/9/2001 at 5:07:13 AM
Some kind of fork lock?

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   what is it? posted by Art on 3/9/2001 at 8:14:35 AM
I had a German Torpedo that had one of these. It was explained to me that in European countries there weren't bike racks like we often had here. To facilitate leaning the bike against a wall, the knob acts as a front fork and wheel lock that keeps the front wheel from turning and rolling out from under the bike when it is parked.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   what is it? posted by sam on 3/9/2001 at 7:10:56 PM
Art,If it keeps the front wheel from rolling that would make good sense on bikes that have a rear drop stand.My roadester has a drop stand and only falls if it rolls forward

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   what is it? posted by Art on 3/10/2001 at 7:08:26 AM
I think the wheel still rolls, Sam, but the fork is locked. Have you ever leaned a bike against a wall, and after a short while the tire rolls a bit and the fork turns away from the wall and the bike crashes to the ground. I think this knob prevents this from happening. The knob locks up the fork in the head tube so that the bike is stationary.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   what is it? posted by sam on 3/10/2001 at 11:53:46 AM
I see Art,thinks.Also would be great to have if you could ever find one of those rail attachments from the 1909 sears catalog.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   what is it? posted by Sheldon Brown on 3/10/2001 at 8:42:37 PM
I looked for the pictures of this gadget, but the auction is over and the pix have been taken down.

I own a 1930s German "Torpedo" bike, which has a knob on the side of the head tube, which is threaded onto the shaft of a device something like the clamp that holds the brake lever to the handlebar of a drop bar bike. The band loops around the steerer, and if you tighten the knob the fork gets stiff and hard to turn. From the description above, I'm assuming we're talking about the same basic device.

I was long puzzled by this, and by other aspects of this bike. It has _extramely_ laid-back frame angles, something like 66 degrees, and a _very_ long wheelbase, maybe 48 inches if mem'ry serves. It was built for fat 700c tires, has lots of clearance. These characteristics at first suggested to me that it was intended for off-road use, but it is only a single speed, and the gear isn't low enough for serious climbing. Then I figured it out!

This bike was made for use in flat German cities in the days when the streets were all paved with cobblestones! The long wheelbase and slack frame angles were to reduce the discomfort of the bumpy surface.

The device on the side of the head tube is an adjustable steering damper. For smooth roads you'd loosen it up for easy steering; when you got to the cobbles you'd snug it down a bit so that you wouldn't have to hold on so tight to the handlebars.

Sheldon Brown

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   what is it? posted by paulnz on 3/11/2001 at 8:18:00 PM
Thanks guys for taking the time to look(The photos took ages)and to reply.My one must be a bit seized with age, i'll give it a spray and see what happens.Paul

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   what is it? posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 3/12/2001 at 4:39:38 PM
It looks simple to make too. I've seen it. The Sears book is neat.

FOR SALE:   Boatloads of S-A, Cables first posted by: VVVintage Vintage Bicycles at OldRoads.com on 3/8/2001 at 4:37:24 PM
We've made our first cut at our "cables" page. We've bought just about every kind of Sturmey-Archer, Phillips and Clark-UK, NOS vintage cable we could find over the past few years and now we're starting to document them. And sell them!

The pictures are too big on this first pass, but our goal is to create a page which:

1) Shows what we have for sale
2) Once the inventory is gone, will exist as a reference source for Roadster, Middleweight and Musclebike cables.

The new 'cables' page can be accessed from the "Bikes/Parts For Sale" link at the top of this page.

Vin - VVVintage Vintage Bicycles

AGE / VALUE:   Wish it was mine posted by: sam on 3/8/2001 at 2:53:27 PM
Love the workmanship on this bike on ebay #1118867274 --if only had more money---sam

AGE / VALUE:   Sunbeam cycle on E-bay posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 3/8/2001 at 10:22:18 AM
The finest Roadster bicycle was and always will be a Sunbeam.

One has surfaced on e-bay Item # 1414122322 1929 Sunbeam Royal Bicycle

No relation to seller, not my auction. Magnificent machine

   Question posted by Oscar on 3/9/2001 at 6:56:15 PM
Question: If you owned it, would you ride it or hang it on the wall?

   RE:Question posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 3/10/2001 at 8:47:44 AM
I would ride it very carefully, never in the rain, a cleaning after every ride. I would ride it proudly and enjoy every moment. Life is too short not to enjoy things like these. Guess What? I think that is the wrong answer! I suppose Sunbeam owners do keep them hung up! This is a good trick question!

   RE:RE:Question posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 3/10/2001 at 9:02:59 AM
This sold for $450.00 and was complete with a marvelous set of cycle tools. I hope the owner keeps it safe from all harm.

   RE:RE:RE:Question posted by Oscar on 3/10/2001 at 2:33:12 PM
It was a trick question, but you had the right answer. I think it would be terribly tempting to have a wonderful, beautiful machine and to not have it in use. (Scrupulously careful use.)

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Dynohub Output/Remag.. posted by: Paul on 3/8/2001 at 4:23:28 AM
Brian Hayes wrote that the output of his '57 dynohub was down to 0.9 W. Brian - could you please explain how we could
go about measuring our dynohubs, and perhaps other bottle-type dynamos? Would a multimeter be sufficient, and how do we wire it up? Thanks.
Also, is it possible that we can make up a "keeper" for when we dismantle the dynohub? Can anyone give the dimensions of the piece of steel neccessary? Cheers. Paul.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Dynohub Output/Remag.. posted by Brian Hayes on 3/8/2001 at 5:46:37 AM
I arrived at that number as just a "guesstimate" - the 1956 manual suggests .25A headlight bulbs for a dynohub (plus .06A for taillight, which makes for a total of 1.86W output). I was not able to obtain a "normal" bright light until I put a .15A bulb in (with no taillight). .15A x 6V = .9W A better estimate would require a way of measuring the AC current (rms) as well as the running voltage (rms). I'm not sure how to do this with the simple meter I have. Do any electrical engineers out there have any suggestions? (I'm a mechanical/aero engineer and electronics is not my forte.)

BTW, I have been experimenting with a simple nicad system (a la Sheldon's tandem setup on his dynohub page). It is working just fine so far, and since I ride more in the daylight than night time (and usually ride only about 3 miles at a time), I'm getting away with using a regular .5A lightbulb - much brighter, and I never have to charge the batteries (the "day" position does not power the light). This would be what I would do with a dry battery unit (if I had one) to keep it looking "period correct", but practical for modern use.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Dynohub Output/Remag.. posted by Paul Cleary on 3/11/2001 at 3:33:30 PM
I do not think there is a cheaper and simpler way to measure power output than what you did with the electic light bulb.
The electical meters that measure power are always expensive and setup to measure large amounts of power (ie electric heater levels).

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Dynohub Output/Remag.. posted by ChristopherRobin on 3/12/2001 at 4:47:43 PM
Shown in the old catalogs( phantom diagrams) they had a page with the tools and they offered a Dynohub test meeter. I suppose a few are still out there in private collections. I have never seen one, these are long gone. Im sure there is a way to use a modern test meeter. I don't know how. I have a 12 volt light set, the huge brass one. Its a cool piece wish I knew how to wire it up but this is something best left asleep in it's box. It is huge! This has the bullet style tail lamp and a twin bulb headlamp.

AGE / VALUE:   Whats it worth posted by: paulnz on 3/8/2001 at 1:24:29 AM
I have a girls AMF roadmaster, red and white, all there, mudguards come to a point, pointy chain-guard, easy restoration. I'm putting it in my swap-meet, not sure what its worth. late 50s early 60's? I was going to put $100 nz thats about $46 US. Sounds too cheap when you look at it like that.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Whats it worth posted by paulnz on 3/8/2001 at 1:38:24 AM
sorry folks, i'm so used to looking here,i posted it in the wrong place. It seems like we like all types, any roadster lovers know about cruisers?

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   AW Hub overhaul posted by: June on 3/7/2001 at 8:19:41 PM
I am about to tear into my AW hub...any suggestions? I have read a lot but thought there might be a few tricks to know about. Thank'ee. June

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   AW Hub overhaul posted by Paul on 3/8/2001 at 4:38:31 AM
June - Further down this list you will find references to
Tony Hadland's site, and also Sheldon Brown's site.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   AW Hub overhaul posted by Tom Findley on 3/8/2001 at 5:26:40 AM
After cleaning out the old goop, put grease in the ball bearing races, and oil everywhere else. The manual says to put 2 Teaspoons of oil in the hub when reassembling.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   AW Hub overhaul posted by Greg Groth on 3/8/2001 at 5:36:51 AM
If you've never done this before, clear an area where you will have plenty of room to work. When you take the internals out of the hub, start 2 "lines" on your workbench - parts off of the left side, parts off of the right side. Line the parts up as you take them out of the hub, it will make it much easier for you to put it back together. Sweep your floor before you start work, and make sure you're work area is well lit, this will make it easier to find pawl springs and other small pieces if and when they decide to launch themselves onto the floor. Use a vise to hold the internal assembly when removing it from the hub with the driver side on top, this will keep pins from falling out before you've had a chance to see where they came from. Make sure you remember the orientation of the spacers and the cog on the wheel, as this will adversely affect the driveline if reinstalled incorrectly. Also place close attention to the orientation of the washers under the axle nuts, correct installation is critical.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh "Canadian" Sports posted by: Warren on 3/7/2001 at 7:20:14 PM
Just days after posting how I was going to stay focussed on bikes other than Sports models, temptation proved to be too strong. A 1961 AW "Canadian"...fire engine red with very unusual white trimming. It has a white headtube with those flared points running down both downtubes, (womens model). The front forks are white from the dropouts up one third the way up the fork. The nice Raleigh gold block stencils on the downtube and white chainguard. "Canadian" decal and old multicoloured maple leaves down the seatpost...the older brakesets with the fixed cable stops... Dunlop Gold Seal tires and tubes. The rear fender must have gotten wet or damp at some point beacause the paint on the top is weathered and blistered. Otherwise this bike would look showroom. Brake pads show no wear. Badly deteriorated horsehair mattress saddle however.

Just thought I'd mention it...another "new" Raleigh model for the archives. Must take pics soon.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   just rah rah-ing posted by: Kimo on 3/6/2001 at 6:45:43 PM
To the few of you who deride the handling of the Dl-1, I say, reconsider. I’ve been riding the big heavy bike daily for the last three months in heavy complicated city traffic. The Raleigh has performed very well indeed. I put fat winter tires on my folding 20 and the new handling makes it less attractive to take out in the cold mornings. The Bianchi? Forget it. New York’s winter streets are pockmarked with new potholes and have these inch thick huge slippery metal plates to cover the worst of them. The Italian bike waits for dry warmer weather. The Bike I’ve been taking is the high head Roadster. This last snowstorm was a dud, but I’ve been out and about in the worst we’ve had this year. I do at least 10 miles daily. Weekends usually 15+. The Dl-1 tracks through snow extremely well. It is inherently stable. The potholes are a surprise, but holes that would have swallowed up the 20 or damaged the Italian, just jostle the Raleigh. Even on nights when Cabs were fishtailing all over First Avenue, the Raleigh kept on smoothly trucking. (Of course I have a coaster brake on the SA hub. I wouldn’t venture out in any kind of traffic without it.) These bikes are terrific. Forget Rivendell and the Bridgestone redux. Who can we find to make a lighter version of the Dl-1? I’d be right in line. With a Schmidt dynamo, 28”aluminum rims, decent brakes, I’d even spring for the Rolhoff hub. But I digress, THESE BIKES RULE! And whoever relegates them to bike paths and the like is missing their awesome performance. Kimo

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   just rah rah-ing posted by Kevin C. on 3/7/2001 at 8:14:40 AM
The "bike paths" comment was made during a discussion of the poor stopping power of rod brakes. If you put coaster brakes on a DL-1, it's a different animal.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   just rah rah-ing posted by Keith on 3/7/2001 at 11:05:36 AM
I agree with Kimo's comments -- the DL-1 handles and corners better than you might expect. The stability and weight can give a secure feeling in trafic, and small potholes and bumps can simply be ridden over -- no need to avoid or hop over them as on an aluminum rimmed lightweight. It also rides very well over fresh snow -- again, the inherent stability is a factor. Earlier this week I hooked up with some of my riding friends who also commute by bike (they were riding mountain, road, and city bikes). We rode together on the bike path, averaging about 18mph (no tailwind). I had no problem keeping up on the DL-1, and was frequently off the front. Still, the DL-1 is not my first choice for a city bike. For heavy trafic I prefer the handling qualities of a Sports or similar 26" wheel RI 3-speed. Quick turns are easier, and the caliper brakes are better stoppers, especially if it's wet.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   just rah rah-ing posted by Keith on 3/7/2001 at 11:09:20 AM
P.S. The commute is 28 miles round trip. I've also taken a DL-1 out on local club rides of up to 25 miles, and kept up with my road bike riding friends.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   just rah rah-ing posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 3/7/2001 at 4:23:15 PM
Well said, every word. The Raleigh D.L.1 has steel Westwood rims and you would really have to hit something mighty hard to affect them. I had a set of newer rims for this bike they were from India and while these were 28 X 1 1/2 and the tires fit these rims were slightly diffrent. Good chrome, they were like 25.00 each and I'll never forget how the bike handled with them on. The bike would glide down the street so wonderfully. I really love the older Dunlop, Raleigh made Westwood rims love them, but that set from India was incredible.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: just rah rah-ing posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 3/7/2001 at 4:33:10 PM
Kimo is commuting on this bike and this particular bicycles was made for just that. I would love to have a D.L.1 made for myself only with Reynolds 531 but you cannot get 531 tubing anymore. Reynolds is still around but they don't offer 531 any more. Perhaps one day and with some other type and brand tubing.

Raleigh had letters pour into Nottingham from all over the world for many years mentioning how much this particular model was liked. Phillips has the words "Renown the World Over" They were telling the truth.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Museum posted by: Jacob on 3/6/2001 at 5:07:22 AM
Hello friends!
Here is a museum, you might find interesting. It's a small bicycle museum in Denmark - the only one in the country as far as I know. It has a web-site, where you can see pictures from the exhibition including (what seems to be) english roadsters, the danish Hamlet bike and a bike workshop as it would look like in the 20's.
Go to: www.sundby-cykler.dk/cykelmuseum/

Click on "se billeder fra museet" and then click on the coloured dots.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Museum posted by Stinko on 3/7/2001 at 5:46:29 PM
Jokobo, Dankon pro la bildojn! Ili estis tre bone, kaj interesa!

AGE / VALUE:   SA 4 speed hubs posted by: Greg Groth on 3/4/2001 at 10:12:55 PM
What would be a fair price to offer for a complete, used 40 spoke alloy SA 4 spd hub? Can't tell the model, the outside of the hub is badly scratched.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   SA 4 speed hubs posted by Sal on 3/5/2001 at 6:41:39 AM
I didn't know Sturmey made a 4 speed. When were these made and what were they used on? I've never seen a 4 speed Raleigh!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   SA 4 speed hubs posted by Bill Putnam on 3/5/2001 at 1:18:57 PM
I just bought a used Sturmey FW four speed and front
GH-6 dyno hub on e bay for 38 pounds british ($47 US)plus
shipping http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewItem&item=1115111602
Also, a brand new original stock 1949 Sturmey FW four speed
went for $261.56 US http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1115190803
It's not often you see a 52 year old hub in such condition.
These are both steel shell models. The alloy shell models
are more rare and worth more, all other things being equal.
The alloy shells can crack around the spoke holes, however.
Also, there are more FW (Four speed Wide ratio) hubs around
than FM or FC's. See Sheldon Brown's page for more info and links:

Make sure that the indicator rod/chain and adjusting screw
are present and in good condition, these are delicate and
difficult to find.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   SA 4 speed hubs posted by Greg Groth on 3/5/2001 at 7:54:31 PM
Thanks for the info. Did they use special sized indicator chains? I know for a while back in the late 80's, early 90's they had quite a number of sizes to choose from, would any of these work? I don't think the indicator chain was included. Any way to tell the model of the hub by looking at the internals, the markings on the hub are unreadable. Also, how reliable are these? I was thinking about getting some Sun rims and lacing up a set of wheels for my wife's cruiser. I built a set for mine a while back, Internal 5spd / drum brake / alloy hub (S5 I think), and the matching front drum brake. I've been pretty happy with the setup. Her's currently has the Schwinn S2 rims with 105ga spokes / Bendix single speed, and a real bear to pedal (she won't get off the seat).

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   SA 4 speed hubs posted by Wings on 3/5/2001 at 11:51:13 PM
I put a SA 3 speed hub in my Schwinn Cruiser and also put in a Primo bottom bracket for a 3 piece crank. I used a Sugino with 3 chain rings. I used an old rear derailer and set the stops so the chain was fixed over the rear cog. All my riding on the cruiser is in the middle chain ring. I have one more shift up or down with the other chain rings. I like it!
I also put alloy rims (don't remember the make) on my cruiser. Wow, did they improve the ride! Totally different feel! You could also find some old Mountain bike alloy rims also.
If you want to get rid of the S2 rims let me know as I am always looking for them.
I also made a plate out of aluminum to mount a Pit Bull roller cam brake on the rear wheel. The plate fit under the cross bar on the rear stays. There are also V brake plates and 990 brake plates!

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   SA 4 speed hubs posted by Greg Groth on 3/6/2001 at 6:44:22 AM
I ended up using a 39T sprocket on the front, The bike priginally had the 46T 4-hole sprocket, but was to hard to push in 3rd, 4th, & 5th gear. On hers I was thinking of going with cantis in the back and a drum in the front. Long time back, there was a company that made adapter kits to replace standard calipers with cantis. It was a horseshoe-looking thing that had the two braze-ons for the brakes. I modified one of these a while back when I converted an old Rollfast tandem from a single speed to a 5-speed. They weren't Deore by any means, but worked pretty darn well considering the length of the cable and the steel rims. I think I still have one or two of these things laying around, I'll have to go digging one of these days. I remember a ways back Schwinn did make a Cruiser 5 that had calipers, I think they used Weinmann 1080s and then switched to Chang Star after a while. Didn't stop all that well. I know that the calipers they used on the Schwinn tandems had a center bolt that was about 30% thicker than the regular bolt and were quite a bit stiffer, but finding one nowadays is next to impossible. I also have to relace the wheel on her Debutante and throw on a Bendix 2-speed hub, finally managed to source a cable for it on Ebay.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   SA 4 speed hubs posted by Bill Putnam on 3/6/2001 at 8:10:07 AM
Re: Four speed indicator chains:

The indicator chain for the four speed hub is a different
design than the 3 speed AW and not interchangable. The four
speed does not screw into the axle key like the AW, rather it
is a two piece assembly and passes through the axle key. There
is a small compensator spring and collar which is sandwiched
between the two halves of the indicator assembly.

The four speed indicator chain assembly is not as robust as
the AW design. You must be very careful to not overtighten
the two halves or you can easily break the very small threaded
portion off. Also, the relative strength of the compensator
spring and low gear spring needs to be correct for it to
function properly. Used with care and maintained properly
they work fine, but they will not tolerate the kind of abuse
an AW will. The small parts for the four speeds are very
difficult to find.

The later S5.2 five speed with double pull
chains is more reliable assuming you use two 3 speed triggers
rather than the shift mechanisms that originally came with
the hubs. The S5 with left hand bell crank and push rod
work fine too if you use the 3 speed triggers and have the
better design bell crank (One design is much better than
the other).

It's pretty easy to tell the difference between hub models
by looking at the internals. Check out Tony Hadland's site
http://www.hadland.net/ for downloadable manuals on the
different hubs. Also check out Sheldon Brown's site for
good Sturmey info: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer.html
Please look over the manual before you dismantle the hub so that
you don't damage it or lose very small irreplacable pieces
(the compensator spring and indicator come to mind).

Good luck,

Bill Putnam

adjusting indicator

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   SA 4 speed hubs posted by Greg Groth on 3/6/2001 at 8:15:59 PM
Thanks for the reply, I had not heard of Tony Hadland's site before and spent a couple of hours reading through it, very impressive. I can attest that the S-5 shifters were pretty much worthless. The one that came with the hub stayed on my bike for all of 3 days beofre I ordered a replacement. The one I have now is from SA and is stem mounted, and has 2 shifters. It also came with a small, self-adhesive alloy "chart" to decipher the gearing. Not sure for how long it was made, but I would definately reccomend it to the plastic, single lever, dual cable shifter that came with it.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   SA 4 speed hubs posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 3/7/2001 at 7:29:39 AM
Sturmey-Archer never made a F.M. B. hub. It does not exist and is not mentioned in the book, The Sturmey-Archer Story. Yet I have a blueprint framed on a wall of the F.M.B. which is a four speed medium ratio hub combined with a brake. The F.M.hub was made and many are out there but this combined with a brake hub was never produced. I'm not sure if it is an actual blueprint or a photocopy. It is one of the more interesting and cool pieces I have collected over the years.

AGE / VALUE:   NOS Raleigh crank axles etc posted by: Ernie-keeper of the bones on 3/4/2001 at 9:29:12 PM
For sale:
Raleigh NOS crank axles
Raleigh NOS 26TPI headsets
Sturmey misc. internal gear parts
Wrights NOS leather saddles
28x1 1/2 NOS tires
misc.NOS Raleigh/sturmey odds & ends.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   NOS Raleigh crank axles etc posted by Jim on 3/5/2001 at 4:57:23 AM
Do you have any bullet style tail lights for a dyno hub?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   NOS Raleigh crank axles etc posted by Dean on 4/28/2001 at 11:02:48 PM
Do you still have 08GC axle(s)??
How much?
Cheers, Dean Carr-Mpls, MN

AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Superbe Lights/Dynohub posted by: Bob on 3/4/2001 at 8:46:04 PM
I suspect the front Dynohub-powered headlamp on my 1972 Raleigh Superbe doesn't shine as brightly as it should. Is there any point in trying to get the Dynohub reconditioned? I've heard that the magnet can be remagnetized and that this could restore the headlamp to its original light intensity. Please advise. Thanks in advance.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Superbe Lights/Dynohub posted by Sal on 3/5/2001 at 6:42:29 AM
There is a message further down on this page about remagnetizing

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Superbe Lights/Dynohub posted by Jon on 3/5/2001 at 6:23:45 PM
I have an NOS Dynohub magnet with keeper intact. Email for pictures or an offer.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Superbe Lights/Dynohub posted by Bill Putnam on 3/6/2001 at 6:09:03 AM
See my posting on remagnetizing further down the posts.

WANTED:   I need cotter pin(s) posted by: Christian on 3/4/2001 at 6:21:42 PM
In my first attempt at overhauling an old Raleigh, I have managed to maul one of my cotter pins in a three hour removal attempt session. Unfortunatley the pin still rests in its original abode. Perhaps someone could educate me on the removal of this firmly wedged piece of metal. I would also like to buy two new ones (assuming I can ever get the old ones out), if anyone has some they can let go. It is a 1968 Raleigh Sports men's bike. Please help I am becoming obsessive. Thanks, Christian

   RE:WANTED:   I need cotter pin(s) posted by Brian Hayes on 3/4/2001 at 7:04:47 PM
Here's Sheldon's tips for removal. I generally am not able to remove cotters intact. Harris Cyclery sells new ones; just follow the links at the bottom of:


   RE:WANTED:   I need cotter pin(s) posted by Ray on 3/5/2001 at 6:51:11 AM
If you are going to mess with 3 piece English cranks then invest in the Park Cotter remover tool. It is not that expensive and will pay for itself when you remove the first pin in under 2 minutes. I have one and it is probably the biggest work saver I ever invested in. You will not be disappointed. I even use the thing on my English hi wheel bike and it works fine. Also invest in a can of liquid wrench and you have a combination that no cotter pin can resist.

   RE:WANTED:   I need cotter pin(s) posted by sam on 3/5/2001 at 2:04:14 PM
You didn't tell me you owned a good bike!!Well what I do is put a socket over the end that pushes out and then use a large "C" clamp to push out the pin---sam

   RE:RE:WANTED:   I need cotter pin(s) posted by Jon on 3/5/2001 at 6:20:46 PM
The trick to getting a cotter out is being able to buck up the side where the pin comes out(like supporting it on an anvil with a socket as previously mentioned). Then one quick blow from a four pound sledge hammer with a 1/4 inch drift pin will usually drive it out. (Always wear protective glasses.)

   Park cotter pin tool, may they always make it. posted by ChristopherRobin on 3/6/2001 at 2:10:59 PM
I do not know what is going on with the Park cotter pin press. You can still get this from a cycle shop but I do not see it listed in Park Tool's current Catalog and that worries me a bit. I hope I'm wrong and that I missed it. This is the tool for removing and fitting these pins. Eye protection and a good review of Sheldon Browns page on these cotter pins are requirements. I drilled one of these out once and made a mess out of the crank. I guess I drilled it sideways, anyway I ruined the piece. This was a 7 inch left side Raleigh steel crank marked Humber.

   RE:WANTED:   I need cotter pin(s) posted by Christian on 3/7/2001 at 8:17:21 PM
Thanks for the help, all. They have sucessfully been removed. The second was much easier than the first, for which I had to revert to drilling, burning out the motor on my Dremel tool. Oh well, shes two cotters away from being ready to ride! Thanks again Christian