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which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.

Archived: English Roadsters

FOR SALE:   1959 Raleigh Sports posted by: Jim on 5/24/2001 at 1:33:45 PM
Gents Sports w/ Dynohub, Brooks,B-72, original w/ exception of grips, chain & NOS Raleigh mudguards. Upside down style trigger. Good decals. Ready to ride. Photos on my Reader's Web Page, "retrocycles"

WANTED:   Sturmey Archer Hub Brakes posted by: Art on 5/24/2001 at 7:19:12 AM
I need a front and rear S/A hub brake (drum brake) for a project I'm working on. I don't care what the hubs are attached to. I'll buy the whole bike if they're on a junker bike. Thanks...(Note to Sam, thanks for the lead on the wingnuts, I'd already bought a set from him (the fellow in Nicosia) and they are really nice, NOS, really clean ...thanks) Art

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Miller generator maintenance posted by: William Breiter on 5/24/2001 at 6:02:46 AM
How to lub the moving parts of a Miller generator/dynamo to allow for easier running? Where to buy replacement bulbs for a Miller headlamp when the bulb goes?

Thankyou for your time and help,

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Miller generator maintenance posted by Ed on 5/24/2001 at 12:53:57 PM
If the generator is properly positioned and grounded I don't believe that any lubrication should be neccessary since most units that I've seen are sealed. I don't know where you might find gas filled Miller replacement bulbs however I don't see why any six volt bulb that fits the socket would'nt work so long as its properly wired and grounded. My experience has been that the trick is finding a perfect fit. Good Luck.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Miller generator maintenance posted by JohnM on 5/25/2001 at 1:55:33 PM
With a generator setup, it's important to match the wattage as well as the voltage. Try www.reflectalite.com for a wide selection of bulbs - most bicycle generators are 6v, 3w, but they have the offbeat ones also.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Miller generator maintenance posted by Bill Putnam on 6/1/2001 at 11:20:59 AM
Among the "offbeat" bulbs Reflectalite stocks a terrific
halogen bulb for SA dynohubs-this has revitalized my stock
of dynohubs which I had not been using due to the meager
vacuum bulb's light output. It's not as bright as a 10 Watt
battery system but it's more dependable.

AGE / VALUE:   Raliegh Tourist age posted by: Andrew Hayden on 5/23/2001 at 3:15:05 PM
I recently purchased a Raleigh tourist with 28" wheels and rod brakes at a tag sale in mint condition, and wanted to confirm it's age. The hub is dated 1974, the seat post tube has a letter prefix of NDxxxxxx. Also, what year's did Raleigh produce these bikes? Andrew H.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raliegh Tourist age posted by Ed on 5/24/2001 at 6:41:43 AM
The date on your hub would indicate that your bike was manufactured in 1974,however,maybe I'am mistaken,but I thought that Raleigh stopped putting rod brakes on their bikes prior to 1974. Sounds like an interesting bike.Good luck with it.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raliegh Tourist age posted by Ray on 5/24/2001 at 12:20:06 PM
I have seen Raleigh rod brake bikes from the 80s and they were all original.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raliegh Tourist age posted by Ed on 5/24/2001 at 1:00:06 PM
Thanks for setting me straight Ray,I guess I was mistaken big time.Regards,Ed.

AGE / VALUE:   Cool catalog on e- bay! posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 5/23/2001 at 11:29:13 AM
1922 Winco Cycles Bicycles, lamps, e.t.c. Catalog
E-bay item #1148006725
Something to get lost in, not my auction, no relation to seller.
I wonder what happened to Winco?

MISC:   WILLIAMS 2-CHAINWHEEL CRANK posted by: Albert on 5/21/2001 at 11:53:23 AM
I have a 52/40 T Williams cottered crank--- steel, i950's vintage. Rather than give it to my local scrap metal collector, I thought that I'd offer it free for taking; the recipient reimbursing shipping cost. If you are interested, e-mail me at k3eax@yahoo.com. I will respond to first message received and arrange to ship. By-the-way, the crank is chrome plated and is complete with cotters and spindle

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   DL-1s with Bent Forks posted by: DaveW on 5/18/2001 at 10:22:25 AM
I recently took possession of two DL-1 Tourists. A men’s with an AW hub dated 1-79 and a ladies with an AW hub dated 12-78. From all appearances, these are in very good condition EXCEPT that the forks on both bikes are slightly bent. I’ve posted several pictures to my website: www.wilson-engineering.com/DL1. These files range in size from 255K to 291K.

A trusted, Raleigh-trained mechanic tells me that the forks can be straightened, but it would hardly be worth the effort since the forks would bend again since the metal has already been fatigued. He recommends replacing the forks since he feels that they will continue to bend and eventually become a safety issue. He has a source for replacement forks, but they wouldn’t be Raleigh or DL-1 forks.

A good friend, with lot’s of British Bike experience, tells me that he has ridden several bikes, with similarly bent forks, for several years with no difficulty at all and has suggested that I do the same and not worry about it.

I offer this thread to the group for discussion and look forward to your opinions.

Of course, should someone have the appropriate DL-1 forks and be willing to part with them, PLEASE contact me.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   DL-1s with Bent Forks posted by Ben on 5/18/2001 at 10:50:29 AM
The key to success with straightening forks is how much they have been bent in the first place. If there is a significant crease in the tubing, then your mechanic is right. If there is no crease, then the tubing can handle the adjustment if it is doe correctly, i.e. in a jig, straightened in one move, by an experienced mechanic/framebuilder. This operation, assuming fork is removed, should cost $40 - 60.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   DL-1s with Bent Forks posted by Ben on 5/18/2001 at 10:54:46 AM
Adjustments to the above:
Yes, it is possible to ride a bike with bent forks, but most people would agree that with bent forks caused by a front-ender, there is usually some misalignment of the headset as a result, which may still be a factor if the fork is straightened. Also, a fork can be manipulated two or three times and still be viable. The point is, less times is best.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   DL-1s with Bent Forks posted by Ray on 5/18/2001 at 1:54:57 PM
I had to comment on this one. I basically agree with both prior postings but you said in your posting "slightly" bent. I looked at your photos and could not see the bend because of the way you had your front wheel turned. Anyway they did not look to be severly bent and based off of what I saw I would not, let me emphasize, "I WOULD NOT" have the forks changed for non Raleigh ones. That will ruin the whole bike in my opinion. Slight bends can be straightened with little effort. I have tools to straighten forks right on the bike and my local bike shop mechanic does even better with more sophisticated tools. These are two cool bikes and I would hate to see anyone destroy them by changing out the forks. As for a slight bend coming back after it was straightened, I have to say that sounds a little suspect to me. I have straightened forks a lot worse and rode and still ride them with no problems. You have to work on the alignment and like the other posting said you want to make sure the headtube is not bent or the bearings will fail. That does not seem to be the case on the bikes in your photos. I'll even be that with a little effort you can find direct replacements. Just don't let any bike shop trash these forks and replace them with a generic set. Sell the bikes first so a collector can enjoy them for what they are, original beauties.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   DL-1s with Bent Forks posted by Randy on 5/18/2001 at 6:17:42 PM
I'm a little surprised to see forks with blades bent forwards from the steering column. The rake is pretty funky too (at least to my eyes). It almost looks like someone already tried unsuccessfully to refurbish the forks.

My first DL-1 (I have a "rider" and one in pieces) had forks (and mainframe) bent and twisted. I was able to successfully straighten the fork blades, and have ridden the bike for a couple of years now. Its page is http://www.rickadee.net/'zephyrus/dl-1/dl-1.html (the ' is a tilde).

I'll add that the DL-1 fork tubing is sturdier and less brittle than, say, chrome moly or 531. I'm not a professional framebuilder or bike mechanic (I did build a few recumbents years ago) but I had no problem straightening the DL-1 frame and fork. Just go easy--it's much better to tweak in stages than to go too far and then have to reverse-tweak.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   DL-1s with Bent Forks posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 5/19/2001 at 10:36:25 AM
E- mail me your address and I will drop a fork in the mail to you. What size frame is this? describe the decals you have and what year is stamped on the Sturmey-Archer hub?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   DL-1s with Bent Forks posted by DaveW on 5/21/2001 at 2:51:51 PM
Thanks to everyone that has taken the time to weigh in with an opinion. Your comments have been most helpful.

The consensus seems to be that having a shop/framebuilder with the proper jig straighten the forks is the way to go, although I’m delighted to take ChristerRobin up on his offer of a fork. This is a happy solution for me since I agree completely with Ray that using non-Raleigh forks just wouldn’t be right.

Thanks again.

MISC:   CENTURIES ON A ROADSTER posted by: Albert on 5/18/2001 at 8:16:32 AM
I read with interest that some of our contibutors are riding longer distances on roadsters. This "showing of the roadster flag" on club and other organized rides is a good demonstration of what many of us know: roadsters make perfectly good machines for other than strictly utilitarian purposes. I have been using roadster for my club's centuries foe the past 20 years. This club, Cycling Enthusiasts of the Delaware Valley, runs its centuries through Burlington County, New Jersey--- admittedly not very hilly. It would be niceto hear from others using roadsters for longer distance rides. I'm considering a transcontinental ride on a Raleigh Sports

   RE:MISC:   CENTURIES ON A ROADSTER posted by Ben on 5/18/2001 at 10:19:42 AM
Would it be fair if you hid SPD pedals inside the standard Raleigh blocks?

   CENTURIES ON A ROADSTER posted by Mike Stone on 5/19/2001 at 1:39:57 PM
If you don't get many replies on this one, it is because we either don't have enough real old-timers on this forum, or we don't have many non-USA contributors.

The roadsters were THE bike for touring in the 40's, 50's and early 60's. I have seen many European print books on bicycle touring which have illustrations of families and large groups touring Europe on roadsters.

Until recently the Chinese people travelled hundreds of miles on tour on what were Chinese copies of the old 28" Raleigh single speed roadsters.

I rode about 300 miles in Japan on an old, borrowed 3-speed Japanese roadster about a month ago. Because the bike was too small for me, I longed for my Peugeot PX-10 10-speed which was pining for me in the USA.

Still, with a properly sized 3-speed, a great many pleasurable miles could be ridden on tour.

Mike Stone

   RE:MISC:   CENTURIES ON A ROADSTER posted by Steve on 5/28/2001 at 1:17:13 AM
I've also done club rides on various English 3 speeds around Philadelphia (including Delaware County, not so flat) and Delaware. Most of the bikes are the Sports models, although I have also used my 28" Tourist model. Most rides are shorter than centuries, although I did ride from Wilmington DE to Washington DC and back on a 3 speed (converted Super Course).

The other riders find the older bikes interesting, but for most of them I think part of the group ride is to look at newer bikes and show their toys, so I don't think anyone else in the clubs is likely to start riding 3 speeds except for utility trips.

   RE:RE:MISC:   CENTURIES ON A ROADSTER posted by Dale Oswald on 5/30/2001 at 1:55:29 PM
Right, most people will be disinterested or tell you that you're nuts. Ignore them and enjoy the ride.

Consider a 2x conversion. When my only bike was a three speed Hercules (ca. age 14) I longed for another gear between 2nd and 3rd. Cyclo 2x conversions are probably unobtainable, but you can fab it with 14/16 sprockets, mounted back-to-back on the driver without the spacers. You'll have to grind down the teeth, down to the chain's roller pin depth; go slowly so the part doesn't heat up too much. Add a suitable period derailleur (Simplex, Huret or the coolest a Cyclo Benelux) and you're on the air.

Your gearing will be a "split shift", the 14/16 (7:8) exactly splits the 3:4 in the hub. The pattern, lowest to highest, is L16, L14, N16, N14, H16, H14. Easy to remember, pleasant to use.

You could also use a 21/24 combo, but 24T sprockets are rare; they were special order items from Raleigh in the '70s when I first worked in the trade.

On a flat century with high pressure tires, this bike should serve you very well.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   A Road Bike with One Gear posted by: "Elvis" on 5/17/2001 at 9:37:57 PM
Hi again. I got an old road bike I want to convert to a one-gear bike -- I think it's called fixed-gear. I took the brakes and shifters off, because I heard that since a fixed gear has no free wheel you don't need brakes and you can stop with your peddles sorta' like a coaster brake. Is that true or would I beinsane to ride it without brakes?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   A Road Bike with One Gear posted by Norman F. Birnberg on 5/18/2001 at 1:12:05 AM
I have a fixed gear/single speed freewheel "flip flop" Raleigh Twenty Folder. I ride the bike on the fixed gear side. Basically, a fixed gear bike has a fixed gear with
(hence the name)no freewheel so the pedals turn around and around like the pedals on a child's tricycle. You cannot coast on a fixed gear bike; due to the nature of the gear it will not let you do it and you will have to discover a suitable pedaling cadence even where you normally are tempted to coast, like going over bumps or riding downhill. While Sheldon Brown once rode (and some have ridden without any brakes) you should really have a front brake for safety's sake. That and putting pressure on the pedal backwards should be all you need to stop the bike in the event you have to. Your don't say what brand your old road bike is or how old it is, but if it has horizontal drop outs, it would be an excellent candidate for conversion to fixed gear. By the way, you don't have to choose once and for all between fixed gear and a single speed freewheel gear - your bike can be both if you get a "flip flop" hub. You would ride fixed gear most of the time and save the freewheel side for getting home if you are tired or on a particularly looooong downhill descent. In the event you opt for a "flip flop" hub bike, you should have two brakes if you flip the wheel around to ride on the single speed freewheel side.

Trust me though, riding fixed gear is fun and once you get hooked, you'll never see riding a bike in quite the same way again. You can find out (this is a shameless plug) more about what makes fixed gear riding so great at Harris Cyclery by reading Sheldon Brown's articles on the subject.

AGE / VALUE:   raleigh rudge dynahub posted by: Matt on 5/17/2001 at 9:29:21 PM
I am cleaning up an old Raleigh. It sweems to be stamped 1948. My dad bought it in 1950 or so. The dynahub works, and the bike is lacking only original fenders and frame pump. everything else seems original. Rides great! I'm a little new to bicycle restoration, mostly I do Harleys. Is it possible to get fenders? I remember they had a silver bullet"?" on the front. Please email, I would be grateful.
Thanks, Matt

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   raleigh rudge dynahub posted by GL on 5/18/2001 at 10:05:07 AM
Somebody here had a bunch of NOS Raleigh fenders for sale. If you read down the list you should find it. It was posted about a week or 2 ago.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   raleigh rudge dynahub posted by Geoff Rogers on 5/23/2001 at 7:53:05 AM
I have a pair of NOS black Raleigh fenders for 26"-wheel bikes, plus some rears for those with 28" wheels. I will sell them for what I paid for them; contact me offline if you like .
Geoff Rogers

AGE / VALUE:   1976 Raleigh Colt posted by: Melissa on 5/17/2001 at 4:47:11 PM
I have a girls Raleigh Colt which I believe was purchased in 1976. I am the original owner. My father recently cleaned it up and replaced the tires. It is in excellent condition since I rarely ever rode it. How much could I expect to sell this bike for?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   1976 Raleigh Colt posted by Ed on 5/17/2001 at 5:41:12 PM
There was a mans 1958 Colt for sale on Ebay and this sight recently. I believe the owner was asking in the neighborhood of two hundred plus shipping. Colts are quite rare and I believe sometimes confused with a smaller Raleigh called a Mountie. I don't know what the bike finally sold for,but I was surprised that it didn't generate more interest than it appeared to.Just my opinion, but if your 1976 is all original with the exception of the tires I would double the original 1976 price. I hope you held on to the original tires. Good Luck.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   1976 Raleigh Colt posted by Jim on 5/17/2001 at 9:02:17 PM
Ed I still have the 58 Colt. It is still for sale. Thanks Jim

AGE / VALUE:   "Phillips City" bicycle posted by: Esteban on 5/17/2001 at 3:51:49 PM
Hello. I recently purchased a "Phillips City" bicycle with rod brakes.
I've tried to find out about these bikes with little success (a few years ago on this post someone mentioned BSA built them). Were these bikes 28"? (It looks that way) Any other info about these bikes?


   RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by sam on 5/18/2001 at 9:53:02 PM
Phillips was a large bike company.they made there own bikes as well as parts for other bikes.they also owned several motorcycle companys including the american motorcycle Indian

   RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by Geoff Rogers on 5/23/2001 at 7:58:39 AM
Congartulations! That's a really neat bike. I thought about bidding on it, but didn't, since my English bike habit has been a bit over the top lately. It has old red Dunlops, doesn't it? I own several Phillips-buil;t bikes, including a nice '51 Indian Scout, a prewar Three Spires Gazelle, and several Dunelts. Phillips built many bicycles, and was Raleigh's arch rival until 1960, when the companies merged. Pre-1961 Phillips-built machines are similar to Raleighs, yet different in almost every detail. AFter about 1961, however, they all became Raleighs under the skin, and all the unique Phillips pieces disappeared. Yours is a keeper!

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Phillips   posted by ChristopherRobin@starmail.com on 5/23/2001 at 11:16:49 AM
If it is the one we saw on e- bay with the red tires and the rear 12 Volt Sturmey-Archer dynohub with the huge flat glass lamp and wonderful two tone paint scheme then it is a very special little bike indeed.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by Esteban on 5/29/2001 at 8:29:58 PM
Sorry for the delay - I've been out of town. Yes, this was the bike on ebay. I ride a Raleigh-made Phillips everyday (22 mile round trip to work), and have been looking for a Birmingham Phillips for a long time. Anyway, this bike is certainly different from the bikes I currently ride around. Does anyone know anything about this particular model? I've scoured the internet for info on it (two-tone red/black; 26" John Bull red tires with rod brakes, etc). It is also missing the chain guard. Was this fully encased? I'm sure I'll find out as I get it in shape. Any info would help though. Thanks again for your great responses. I haven't seen it yet in person, by you all have me stoked.

AGE / VALUE:   Rudge-Witworth Road bike posted by: "Elvis" on 5/16/2001 at 2:01:17 PM
Hi everyone. I've never posted anything here before but I've visited the page a couple of times and it is really informative. Here goes:
I've got a Rudge-Whitworth road bike and I wonder how old it is.
It came with cottered cranks. The front chain ring has two gears with the inside one being only a fraction of an inch smaller in size.

The shift lever for the rear gears is mounted on the right side of the down tube with a knurled knob. The knob is yellow metal like brass in the middle, and bears the name "BENELUX" ; the edges are steel or chrome or something. The rear derailer says "Allvit" on it.

There is no shifter for the front gears and no hole for one to be mounted opposite the rear lever. I don't know if it had one of those manual shift gizmos mounted down near the chainring itself or if it never has a shifter and you just flipped the chain over manually.

By the lugs for the seat it says "67119" which could be a serial number; there's a "OL" right underneath it.

The head tube is off-white and the body was red or maroon (very faded with much chips -- The body's since been painted black). The head badge has the "hand" symbol.

It has side pull prakes on the front and back and takes twenty-seven inch wheels. The wheels I have on it are not original so I don't know how many gears it originally had but the dureailer looked like it was set up for four.

The bike has a shiny bolt set into the right side of the fork (to mount a light?) A Brooks saddle completes the bike.

I don't usually ride it more than 40 miles a day, sometimes only ten, but it is a really cool bike. The guy I got it from said it is fromt he 1950's, but Rudge-Whitworth was bought out by Raleigh in 1943. Would they still put the name on a bike made after that year or does this ride predate 1943? If anyone has a clue how old it is, please let me know.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Rudge-Witworth Road bike posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 5/16/2001 at 2:58:38 PM
This could have been made by Raleigh after they bought Rudge. Raleigh produced bikes with 27 inch wheel and the labeled them up as Rudge. Sounds like a nice bike, is there any decal telling the frame tubing used?

   RE: AGE /    Tubing on the Rudge-Whitworth Road bike posted by "Elvis" on 5/16/2001 at 4:02:31 PM
The frame's been mostly repainted black cause its maroon paint had so many chips, but I made sure to leave the off-white head tube as-is (I just like the two-tone look).

I also left the decals alone. It's got a decal that says "Reynolds 531 Tubing" in greenish-blue on the seat tube near the bottom, and at the botton of the down tube it's got this light-colored crest that says English lightweight tubing. I think 531 was developed in the late 1930's -- 1938? if I recall correctly. So the bike definately isn't from before then. The brakes are also a clue; they are "GB MkII" and side-pulls with the cable attatched to the left side.

   RE:RE: AGE /    Tubing on the Rudge-Whitworth Road bike posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 5/16/2001 at 4:25:52 PM
It's a good find, a nice bike.

   RE:Rudge-Whitworth Road bike posted by Sheldon Brown on 5/16/2001 at 7:59:34 PM
This sounds like late '50s. I have a '57 Raleigh Lenton Grand Prix that sounds like yours. Raleigh often made near-identical bikes under the Raleigh, Rudge and Humber names, so they could sell them to competing shops in the same locality. They generally differ only in cosmetics, such as the Rudge hand logo vs the Raleigh heron.

The Hurét Alvit derailer would have been a replacement for the original Benelux Mark VII. I remember doing a similar upgrade on my Elswick Lincoln Imp in the early '60s. I had to modify the Benelux shift lever by taking a hacksaw blade to the cable drum; the Benelux units pulled a _lot_ more cable than the Hurét derailer wanted per shift, and shifting the Hurét with the stock Benelux shift lever was virtually impossible. Took a _lot_ of muscle, and the stroke was too short to fine tune the position for smooth running.

These were fairly high-end bikes for their day, and had very nice riding qualities. The 46/49 chainrings would, indeed, have had a "suicide" shifter on the seatpost.

   RE:Rudge-Whitworth Road bike posted by "Elvis" on 5/17/2001 at 9:38:37 AM
Thanks, everyone. It's neat to know a little more about the bike.

Actually, last night I got back from a 40-mile ride which trashed the rear wheel -- totally wobbles now. I had to go over these pot-holes at about 40 miles per hour and it was like driving over land mines. But I have a replacement rear wheel to use until I get that one fixed.

I think the town ought to pay for any repairs caused by its failure to fix bad pot holes. I also think the fines collected for littering should go to a fund to pay bicyclists and pedestrians injured by debris -- rather than to the gullet of the government. Last week I was riding to school and some idle bum threw a bottle out the window and it hit me good and hard in the left eye. I wish I had gotten the license number.
Drivers have to be more careful of those of us who ride. This is especially so for us who ride older or vintage bikes, which if wrecked in a crash may be harder to fix or get parts for.

AGE / VALUE:   Not all parts cleaners are the same posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 5/15/2001 at 12:33:15 PM
I had a freewheel cleaned and was amazed at how good it came back. They said that it heats up and vibrates and that it is a special solution. I am going to see what one of these costs.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Not all parts cleaners are the same posted by Randy on 5/16/2001 at 6:13:40 PM
I once boiled a (non-heated) ultrasonic cleaning tank dry by accidentally leaving it on overnight. All the piezoelectric crystals burned out and the whole thing needed to be replaced. :-(

AGE / VALUE:   Vintage Carlton Track Bike posted by: Tom on 5/12/2001 at 9:51:19 PM
I met a guy today who has an old Carlton Track Bike. He claims it is from the 40's. I am going
to look at it next week. I have not heard of this bike. Does anyone know what I am to look for,
markings, numbers, tires, rims, bars etc. He said it had the headbadge with the guy riding the
racer on it, Williams cottered crank, Brooks saddle. He said it has a number 47 on the seatpost
lug. Is this bike a rare one and what would it's value be. He claims it is almost mint.