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Archived: English Roadsters

FOR SALE:   English Rod Brake Handlebars posted by: Brian on 5/31/2001 at 7:58:22 PM
I have two English Rod Brake Handlebar Sets listed on ebay. Item numbers 1149957339 and 1149961336.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   european made 26x1 3/8 tires posted by: peter estus on 5/31/2001 at 5:38:06 PM
I will swap sturmey archer three speed hubs (USED) for a pair of new tires.

AGE / VALUE:   Fleet Wing posted by: Gary M on 5/30/2001 at 4:42:15 PM
if that caught your eye you may own one!! if so i have a decent head badge for you! Oval, the red is faded out, and its slightly buggered up from amatuer theft attempt {rookies!!} willing to trade for Lear Jet, or MotorSailor in the 80' range.

AGE / VALUE:   Cyclo Benelux Conversion Kit posted by: dave on 5/30/2001 at 12:09:17 PM
My 14 year old son came home from a library sale the other day with an old manual/product/price list from the Big Wheel store in Denver. My best guess is it's from the early '70s. Lots of cool stuff, mostly lightweight product literature but some 3 and 5 speed stuff, including exploded diagrams of SA hubs. But there is also a service manual page, including photos, of the Cyclo Benelux Conversion Kit -- "Converting your 3-speed gears to 6 or 9 speed".
Does anybody have experience with these and are they still out there?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cyclo Benelux Conversion Kit posted by Dale Oswald on 5/30/2001 at 2:08:02 PM
I have a 2x conversion on my '69 Superbe. It was NOS when I bought it in 1975... It works GREAT. Install 14/16 or 21/24 and you get a "split shift" on an AW. Install 18/20 on an FW or AM for the same effect. Finding one now -- Fat Chance, they weren't terribly common in the '60s.

See my post below on the "Century on a Roadster" thread. It explains how to fab a 2x conversion using SA sprockets. Done right, this works almost as well as the Cyclo unit.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cyclo Benelux Conversion Kit posted by Albert on 5/31/2001 at 7:32:25 AM
I purchased a Cyclo-Benelux 3-cog conversion unit in the 1960's. The rear forks and stays on the Raleigh Sports had to be spread and a longer axel had to be fitted to the SA AW. The conversion unit had cogs of 15,17,and21 teeth. These combined with the standard 46-tooth chainwheel did not provide a gear as low as I would have liked. I believe the Benelux unit would be an asset to any bike converted from derailer to SA. The rear dropout width would not need changing and a 40-tooth chainwheel would give a very usable range of gearing. I still have the unit in my parts collection and would like to hear from anyone who can tell me which, if any, freewheel cogs are compatable with the Cyclo-Benelux.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cyclo Benelux Conversion Kit posted by Bill Putnam on 6/1/2001 at 11:32:00 AM
Shimano Uniglide cassette cogs can be modified to fit the
SA driver as well, opening up additional gearing possibilities.
Just grind off the unneded internal cog splines and shape
the remaining ones to fit. This works well space wise for
two cogs. I have a 32T rear cog on one Sports for plowing
through snowdrifts in the winter.

24 tooth cogs along with 21, 14, 16, and others, are
available from Harris Cyclery http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/sturmey.html
and would not require any grinding. The 24 is a Sachs
sprocket, but the spline pattern is the same as SA.

If you can find a 4 or 5 speed SA hub, these have smaller
steps between gears than the AW. I've picked a couple up
on e bay for reasonable prices (under $60 US).

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cyclo Benelux Conversion Kit posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 6/1/2001 at 1:49:19 PM
Today I picked up a Benelux Cyclo(English) Tourist model rear derailur and the matching shifter. I reached into the box and pulled it out and stood there in amazement and I exclaimed "OOH, CYCLO!!, I want this!" Perhaps now I can actually get one of these mounted up on one of my bikes!
I have been hunting these and have not found all that much of it.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cyclo Benelux Conversion Kit posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 6/1/2001 at 1:52:02 PM
Getting your local shop to special order you a 24 tooth cog is not easy sometimes.
It's great that we have Sheldon who offers a wide range of goodies.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cyclo Benelux Conversion Kit posted by Albert on 6/3/2001 at 11:26:47 AM
I am unable to locate any mention of a 24-tooth three-splined SA compatable cog on the Harris site. Could you [please help?

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cyclo Benelux Conversion Kit posted by Albert on 6/3/2001 at 11:30:05 AM
Whoops! 'just found it. Thanks anyway.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cyclo Benelux Conversion Kit posted by Dale Oswald on 6/5/2001 at 7:59:48 AM
FW had closer gears (.67, .8, 1.0, 1.25) but the S5 did not, it had .67, .75, 1.0, 1.25, 1.5 - middle three same as an AW.

The idea behind using 14/16 or 21/24 is to give you six evenly spaced gears with a nice pattern. Whatever combination you use, I'd recommend staying with the 7:8 ratio. To get the overall gearing you want, you may also have to change front chainring.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Cyclo Benelux Conversion Kit posted by ALbert on 6/5/2001 at 5:19:02 PM
Dale the FW and all three versions of the S5 (S5,S51, and S52) had identicle ratios; the 4-speed FW of course lacked the top speed of 1.5. Also, the "middle" three speeds of the S5 were not the same as the AW, those being .75, 1.0, and 1.33. Small points but worthy of comment. Cheers

AGE / VALUE:   rod brake conversion posted by: Scott on 5/30/2001 at 9:42:46 AM
Is it possible to convert to rod brakes on a late 70's Raleigh Sprite? And where would one find rod brakes and the special rims, etc.?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   rod brake conversion posted by Albert on 5/30/2001 at 12:04:33 PM
This conversion would face problems that are breathtaking! Let me commment on just one: The rod brakes are applied in an action that pulls the bake blocks upward against the rim rather than inward toward the rim's side. A special rim pattern is required; this type of rim is referred to as a "westwood" pattern. The Raleigh pattern found on the Sports and some other Raleigh cycles equiped with caliper brakes can also be used with rod brakes. However the area contacted by the rod brake's rubber block is somewhat reduced and adjustment is more difficult along with an even greater need to keep the wheels true. That said, should your Sprite have come equiped with 27" wheels, you will to settle for the westwood or Raleigh pattern in a 26" rim as a 28" rim will require a clearance the frame cannot provide. Some of the early Sprites came with 26' wheels . Should you have one of those, the use of 26" replacement wheels will be more sthetically pleasing. I urge you to consider converting the Sprite to a SA 3-speed using SA's S3C hub. This hub has, in addition to the AW's range oof three ratios, a coaster brake. I have made two such conversions and they have been excellent utility bikes. Should you go ahead with your rod-brake conversion,please keep us informed about your trials and successes. Cheers!

AGE / VALUE:    39 year old Sunflower seeds?? In the bottombracket? posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 5/30/2001 at 8:05:23 AM
This is the first time I have seen this! After 1 hour and two broken drill bits I defeated the evil cotter pin that bent over on me. Then a good shot of brake cleaner and out came the bearings and a surprise! Sunflower seeds(six of them) in the bracket with the dried brown grease and bearings. Somebody must have visited the vending machine and purposly put them in there. Unless they fell in? I have found insect bodies there too before.
It didn't seem to hamper the thing from turning but I didn't put them back in.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:    39 year old Sunflower seeds?? In the bottombracket? posted by Ray on 5/30/2001 at 1:20:16 PM
Chris, I have seen both in BBs also. I believe you will find that some field mice can get in the craziest places and if the bike was left with no seat post or any other opening for a while then the post was replaced you will find the mouse stash. Look for signs of droppings also in these bike that were left in barns and cellars for years and years. Birds also have a way of puting things away for a rainy day in tight places.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:    Rodents posted by Oscar on 5/30/2001 at 1:50:39 PM
Mind the hanta virus.

AGE / VALUE:   My favorite shade of Bronze Green paint!(or it's not easy being green) posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 5/30/2001 at 7:41:10 AM
This is a good example or my favorite shade of Bronze Green paint. Raleigh had more than one shade of green. There was an Emerald green and the Bronze green. I have seen the bronze green vary a bit even a 1960's Raleigh Supurbe and a Raleigh R.S.W. 16 with two shades of paint blended. A light blue with Bronze green mix. Another Sprts of mine has the 1970's shade of green that is diffrent still.
Take a look at E- Bay item #1150262355 Vintage Raleigh Touring Bicycle NICE This one looks very nice, the chainguard and the sprocket are cool.
Wish I found these locally this good!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   My favorite shade of Bronze Green paint!(or it's not easy being green) posted by oscar@freewheeling.com on 5/30/2001 at 1:54:50 PM
Someone in town rides to work on one for those. He converted it to three speed, and it still has the top tube shifter (disconnected). Some day I'll leave him a note to see if I can buy the shifter.

AGE / VALUE:   What happened to "Diamond Brite with Teflon"? posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 5/30/2001 at 7:17:21 AM
First I rubbed the bike with "Kitt Scratch Out" and then after it was all wiped off I used "Diamond Brite with Teflon" Incredible results!! It looks brand new, a deep luscous black. This has given the best results ever so far. It glows! Unfortunitly the Diamond Brite company is out of business, at least the number is changed and there is no listing for the company. I will take another look at the store. I bought this bottle of wax at a garage sale for $5.00!! The seller said it was the best polish anywhere and they paid over $100.00 for it over the television ad. I will experiment with other teflon waxes and polishes. Sometimes however the gold and red box lining or pinstriping does not hold up and sometimes I have removed the lining and that is not cool at all.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: What happened to posted by dave on 5/30/2001 at 12:08:49 PM
Christopher ... maybe I missed the start of this thread, but I just picked up a DL1 with badly rusted fenders and chainguard ... any general advice/products/procedures? When to steel wool and repaint vs trying to save?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   What happened to posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 5/30/2001 at 7:32:03 AM
So now I can look past oxidation and fading and just look out for light rust or pitting missing or non- origonal parts. Always ride it before you buy it. Take your hands off the handlebars to see if it dives to one side or the other. A bent fork is no fun.
And yes, this bike did not have a rear rack, a bell, lights, or a odometer, no flags or mascots either.
It's strange, I never find bikes tricked out with goodies. I have to go hunting specially for them.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: What happened to posted by ken on 6/1/2001 at 11:10:58 AM
Dave, it's not you. Christopher often omits the beginning of his tale, and sometimes the end too. Just keep reading...

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   CONVERTING WHEELS ON RALEIGH TWENTY posted by: Dorian Smith on 5/29/2001 at 10:22:26 PM
I recently bought a 1970 Raleigh Twenty (foldable) with a SA AW 3-speed hub. It's in good shape. I decided to replace the fat 20x1.95 tires and bought a pair of 20x1.25 tires. When they arrived I realized they wouldn't fit the wide steel rims. Now I'm thinking of building new lighter wheels to fit the new tires. Are there any tricks to doing this? I'm particularly concerned about building the rear wheel with the SA hub. Would it be difficult to get the correct size of spokes?

Perhaps something in the BMX category? BMX's have a variety of street-width rims (with or without anodized colors). You can always get a set of spokes to fit any hub-rim combination. If they are not stock, a good bike shop will custom cut them for you ($2 surcharge at Evanston IL's Turin Bike Shop).

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   CONVERTING WHEELS ON RALEIGH TWENTY posted by Paul Aslanides on 5/31/2001 at 4:32:39 AM
Strange that all the Raleigh 20's I've seen have the larger 20 x 1 3/8 wheels, 451 in modern parlance. The smaller 20in.
wheels are known as 406, the bead seat diameter.
My rear wheel was a Ukai steel rim, probably not original,
20 1 3/8", with a Mitsuboshi Silver Star Competition III
tyre, a narrow knobbly, and very good off-road, spokes are
216 m.m 14 gauge plain, cross 3.
The front wheel is a Velocity (Aust.) narrow alloy rim, on
an SR Q/R high flange alloy hub, spokes are 196 or 198 m.m
14 G. cross 2., and carries a 20 x 1 3/8 (451) Kenda tyre,
with an old roadster tread pattern - centre ribs, side lumps.
Another folder I have, a "Stratton", has the 406, smaller
20 inch wheels. These are replacements, Velocity 'Triple V',
alloy rims,Front spokes 166 Cross 2 in a S.A. Steelite
drum brake hub. Rear 183 cross 3 in a S.A. AW 3 spd. hub.
Tyres are 47 - 406, semi - knobbly, great for off road use.
I did rebuild a pair of wheels for a bro.-in-law's Twenty,
and I definitely remember using 216 m.m. spokes, and when I
ran out of those, 218. Which all goes to show that - Small
changes in hub flange diameter do not greatly affect spoke
length, but small changes in rim diameter do.
Most any bike shop would be able to size and supply
suitable spokes for your bike.
Of all the modifications I have performed on Twenty's, the
best was to fit a larger rear sprocket, reducing the overall
gearing, and giving a top gear of around 72 inches. This
transforms the bike, making it more useful in the parks,
trails, and when camping.

   Converting wheels on a Raleigh Twenty posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 5/31/2001 at 4:31:00 PM
I have a set of the Mitsuboshi Silver star in yellow and now you can't find them in yellow only black. I have B.M.X.ers stop me and question me with an attitude. Where did you get those tire? You can't find them anymore. You shouldn't have those on that bike! Do you have any more/They ask. They were not cheap either. But boy, do they fly!

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   CONVERTING WHEELS ON RALEIGH TWENTY posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 5/30/2001 at 7:34:35 AM
Sheldon Brown has a Raleigh Twenty page at his vastly popular website. go to http://www.Sheldonbrown.com
and have fun.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   CONVERTING WHEELS ON RALEIGH TWENTY posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 5/30/2001 at 8:13:45 AM
I wonder what is the best alloy rim you could use in hopping up this bike?

MISC:   Kansas City Classic Bicycle Parade & Rally Coming up... posted by: Calvert Guthrie on 5/29/2001 at 8:11:40 PM
Both of these are open to bikes of all kinds and periods.
But I'd especially like to see a healthy turnout of CLASSIC BRIT ROADSTERS as well as Highwheelers, tandems, Cycletrucks, Moultons, &c.

So if you're in the region, LMK if you need directions
or if I can otherwise assist you in getting here.

Afterwards, if there is enough interest the vintage velo folks
may retire to a BBQ (Kansas City's is, of course, the best anywhere) for some bicycle gab.


Saturday, the 16th of June is Bloomsday
and as we have every year for the past 5 years,
Bloomsday Books will conduct
10:00am at the corner of 55th and Brookside.
This is a short ride (3 to 5 miles) through the
very attractive streets of Brookside
and the Country Club district
as well as along
the Trolley Track (Henry Meyer) Trail.

Free stout, soda bread, & coffee for participants
As well as Celtic music & dance, &c.


Saturday, the 23rd of June,
the Kansas City Heritage
Roll and Stroll Parade
will begin at 9:00am
on Southwest Boulevard
@ Summit then proceed to the
18th and Vine Jazz district.
Home of the Jazz Museum
and the only Negro Leagues
baseball museum in the nation

This year's theme is Transportation
so the director, Lisa Sturgeon,
called to ask if I knew of any
folks who ride old bikes and would
be interested in participating.......

Free T-shirts and a continental
breakfast for all participants.

Email me with any questions.....

Calvert Guthrie
Kansas City
(That's Missouri but dangerously close to Kansas)

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Royal Enfield posted by: Drew on 5/29/2001 at 7:06:44 PM
Looking for information on Royal Enield Bikes, are they made by the Royal Enfield motorcycle co.? When were they produced/sold in the U.S. I found a 10 speed "firefly" circa 1970? had no responses in lightwieght forum. Drew

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   old bicycle advertisement posted by: Leighann Hessler on 5/27/2001 at 5:36:24 PM
I would appreciate any information regarding KYNOCH bicycles possibly from Birmingham, England. I have an old advertisement of a woman in 40ish looking attire riding one of these bicycles. Thank you!

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   S.A. drum brakes posted by: Edward on 5/26/2001 at 8:28:54 PM
I've finally got my project, a "54 Raleigh Superbe, up and running. Special thanks to Christopher Robin, Sheldon Brown, and Nick at Lloyds for all their help. During my quest for parts, I came across a pre-war front drum brake, (L.B. 103) which I refurbished. I am not satisfied with the braking action, and am wondering what I did wrong. The brake itself did not have any adjusting barrel when I got it, so I fashioned one from an old Campy brake (nothing but the best, eh?) which is basicaly a tube threaded to accept a hollow screw. This adjusting barrel fits into a hook on the outside of the brake,which is directly in line with the lever that activates the shoes. The brake levers are the originals and the part that bolts on to the bars have two holes or positions to fit the brake levers, so that I have
two options for lever travel. I've opted for the long
travel position.

When I fully squeeze the brake, the wheel doesn't lock up. At first I thought this was due to poor adjustment, and have adjusted so the wheel can just spin freely. Even when I adjust so the pads rub inside the drum, I still can't lock the wheel. Of course the bike weighs over 50 lbs, and then I'm about 150 lbs as well... I've been told that the poor performance might be due to excessive cable length, so I've shortend it as much as possible, and experimented with different ferrules but still get mushy braking. Am I expecting too much for a 70 year old drum brake, or is there a secret tip for me yet to discover?

Oh, by the way, Ive tried to e-mail Nick at Lloyds for the past month, but I haven't gotten any reply. Anyone know how to get in touch with him?

Edward in Vancouver

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   S.A. drum brakes posted by Paul Aslanides on 5/28/2001 at 7:15:38 AM
A few thoughts, if I may: There was a heavier cable supplied
with the more recent drum brake hubs - might help a bit.
Also the brake lever arm, if it's on a spline at the hub, may be positioned incorrectly, though I think it's on a square shaft. The angle formed by the cable and the lever arm must
not get too wide, otherwise leverage (mechanical advantage)
falls off rapidly. The shoes may be contaminated, e.g. with
oil, but they may improve with use. I feel that one can only
expect old-fashioned braking with these, from more sedate
speeds. There was an old trick often used by some motorcyclists, of packing up the cam with shim, to compensate for worn brake linings. Also, if you can perhaps
pack up around the pivot pin, that may increase the braking
performance. These drums, unlike old auto. drums, have no
provision to take up wear. The cam may have a packing piece
on it already, and if so one must be careful as it is case-
hardened, and very brittle.
I have a '54 AB hub, a 3 spd. drum brake, which was oil-
soaked, but it did improve remarkably. It was fitted,
however, to a small-wheeled bike, hence it was very
powerful. These hubs simply don't have enough leverage to
lock up larger wheels. (We have the smaller 70 m.m dia.
drum brakes in other bikes, very effective on small wheels,
not so good at all in the 27" rim). I suspect you have a
90 m.m dia. drum. There was an even bigger one made, for
tandems, about 4 inch diameter.
A teflon-lined cable may also help a little, on the grounds
that the more friction that can be eliminated the more force
is available to operate the brake.
It's possible that the drum itself is warped. Large
variations in spoke tension may not help. Could you measure
the drum's diameter, in a few places, to check for out-of-
roundness? Some of the cheaper motorcycles of years gone by
were notorious for warped brake drums. The better quality,
and more expensive machines laced the spokes to the hub, not
the brake drum. Vincent, for example.
Yet another trick I've seen is to interpose carbon paper
between the shoes and the drum, and by holding the brake on
just enough to rub, rotate the backing plate in the hub
whilst holding the wheel still. This leaves marks on the
high spots of the brake linings, which are then eased off,
with file or emery paper.
Good luck, hope this helps. Use and enjoy.
Paul. (Cold, in Melbourne).

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   S.A. drum brakes posted by John on 5/29/2001 at 9:20:56 PM
The main problem I have found with S.A drum brakes is oil soaked linings. I have heard of everything from sanding them to setting them on fire but I would like to try riviting on new linings. Does anyone know of a source for lining material? Each lining is only 1/8 by 5/8 by 3 inches long. This is for the 3 1/2 inch {90 mm} drum.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   S.A. drum brakes posted by Edward on 5/29/2001 at 10:06:39 PM
Thanks for the advice gentlemen. I've taken Paul's idea with the carbon paper and sanded a bit away with a Dremel. I've also roughened the inside of the drum a bit. The biggest change came with new teflon lined cable housing. I am able to lock up the brake, but have realized I will never get the same action as with modern caliper brakes. Nevertheless, the brake works fine in wet weather, which is what Vancouver has to offer...

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   S.A. drum brakes posted by Bill Putnam on 6/1/2001 at 11:16:57 AM
For replacement linings of the 90 mm drums, Yellow Jersey
bike shop in Madison, WI, has these. See
http://www.yellowjersey.org/ or e mail Andy at
You may do just as well trying to restore your own linings,
or try a shop that does brake shoe relining for trucks.
The original linings are leather with a wire mesh and aren't
necessarily the greatest material for the application. The
softest modern lining material you can get your hands on
would probably work much better.

MISC:   anybody could help me? posted by: Mario Romano on 5/26/2001 at 5:17:34 AM
I have an Humber bike model Roadster. Well, I want to know if I could fill the central movement (where the pedals are placed) with grease or car engine oil (fill it totally)? Any damage would appear if I do this? I need answer urgently posted here at Oldroads.

Thanks a lot!!!

   RE:MISC:   anybody could help me? posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 5/26/2001 at 12:21:33 PM
Car engine oil would leak out and attract dirt. Only use enough grease to hold the ball bearings in place in the cups during re-assembly.

   RE:RE:MISC:   anybody could help me? posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 5/26/2001 at 1:08:45 PM
The central movement is known as the bottom bracket.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   anybody could help me? posted by Dewane on 5/28/2001 at 10:42:48 AM
Here's a question to the question: Some old British bikes have a bottom bracket oiler, a place where you can add some lubrication, right above the bottom bracket. They had what looks like a ball bearing with a spring that was used to keep dirt out and oil in. If a person has such a bike, should they use motor oil and if so, how far should they fill it? What sort of weight or gear oil (90w) maybe? Should they use grease when initially packing the bottom bracket? If anybody would know this, it would be the resident guru of English Roadsters, Chris. I enjoy this page and have learned a lot from the many experts here. It's free of ego and has the Jack Webb creed: "Just the facts, ma'am."

   RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   anybody could help me? posted by Dewane on 5/28/2001 at 10:49:58 AM
Although it does really make sense that motor oil would leak right out. Maybe it's something like a zerk fitting, where one would put grease? I shouldn't think about such things too much, I just burned a pizza practically beyond recognition while reading these posts.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   anybody could help me? posted by Cal on 5/29/2001 at 5:22:18 AM
I've got a late 1950s Raleigh with the oil port on the bottom bracket. It opens just like the hub oil port, and I just put 30 weight oil in it. I hope I'm not doing something wrong. But how could you even get grease into this fitting?

Also - and importantly - when did Raleigh stop making frames with this oil port?

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   anybody could help me? posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 5/30/2001 at 8:03:48 AM
The bottombrackets with the sprung ball bearing were meant to have oil put in there. Genuine, Sturmey Archer cycle oil is best,30 weight oil, sewing machine oil also. My Sturmey oil can mentions that you need to put a spot of oil on the gear trigger.
My Royal Enfield has a oil bath bottombracket that is diffrent then the Raleigh's. It has felt seals inside the bottombracket cups and we didn't open it up for fear or damaging them. 1960's Dunelts and my newly acquired Raleigh Sports has yellow/ clear plastic strap type oil caps on the chain sprocket side of the bottombracket where you flip it back and it has a larger hole where you put the oil in. The Sturmey-Archer oil cans had long metal spouts and then later on they went to plastic spouts.You wouldn't believe all the diffrent collectible oil tins out there just for bicycles! After bringing back a lot of buckets of small parts I found a old hinged metal lid type oil cover for the bottombracket. A good many Raleigh's were made without offering this feature at all. A lot of my later- day Roadsters do not have it either. My 1954 and 1948 Raleigh Record Ace bikes have zerk fittings in the headsets for grease. Oil ports in the bottom bracket are great but you do not want to put in too much or sometimes (usually) it leaks out and creates a mess. I overhaul the brackets and with Phil grease and just the right adjustment these Raleigh bottom brackets work wonderfully.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Dawes Galaxy - erly 70's posted by: Phil Stout on 5/24/2001 at 1:46:03 PM
I've got an early 1970 Dawes Galaxy I'd like to get rid of. Is there a market for such vintage bikes? Where?
27" Wheels, Reynolds 531 frame, Stronglight cottered crankset, Simplex derailuers, Wienmann/Vanqueur brakes, Brooks saddle, Bike is orange/green, fork ends are chrome. Very Pretty. I've owned it since I was about 13.
Any feedback is much appreciated!

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Dawes Galaxy - erly 70's posted by Ed on 5/25/2001 at 5:32:07 AM
How much are you asking,and do you have any pictures available?

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Dawes Galaxy - erly 70's posted by Phil on 5/26/2001 at 12:43:11 PM
I'll send you some photos . . .