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Archived: English Roadsters

AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh ladies bike posted by: Jim on 7/5/2001 at 9:28:18 PM
Hello all,

I am new here and have just recently started to collect old bicycles.
I have purchased a Raleigh ladies 26" bike and would ike to know somewhat of it's worth.
It is a black one and has a leather seat made by "Brooks".
It has the front fork "key lock" and a 3 speed archer shift.
I am not sure of the date but the rear Artcher hub says "66 7" I assume this is the year?
It is a very nice bike with dull paint and everything intact. The rear fender is bent up some.
The tag around the center post is torn off some but the name on it says something like "-ting--" ?
What is a bike like this worth?
Any help appreciated. I wish I could enclose a ppicture but I lost access to a digital camera that I was using.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh ladies bike posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/6/2001 at 8:27:45 AM
This is a Raleigh Supurbe, these had the locking fork and a dynohub light set. The dynohub is the large front hub that incorporates the generator or dynohub. Perhaps your bike is missing the light set. Some customers didn't want it and they had the basic axle fitted instead.
Keep an eye on e- bay and see what these are going for. Do you have the key for this, they get lost a lot of the time. A local locksmith can make up a key for you, leave it with him and they can do it. Nice bike.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   rim and spokes for front dynohub posted by: nate evans on 7/5/2001 at 8:20:45 PM
I need to ride my mint 1969 5 speed Raleigh Sprite at night. I have a NOS front dynohub kit with 36 hole hub (not built-up), the original rim has 32. Is a solution available? I really want to avoid installing a new plastic light with batteries. I love this bike!

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   rim and spokes for front dynohub posted by sam on 7/6/2001 at 4:05:36 PM
I'de just get a later model 36 hole rim to lace the dynohub to and save the original

AGE / VALUE:   27 inch bike with enclosed chainguard? posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/5/2001 at 3:07:10 PM
Check out e- bay item#1161906534 Raleigh Granada Tour
This is a 27 inch wheel bike with a green fully enclosed chainguard. Decals on this say "Granada Tour"
I have never seen enclosed chainguards on a 27 inch wheel machine before and didn't think they did that.
The wheels do not appear to have been switched, this is factory.
No relation to seller, not my auction, wonders never cease.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   27 inch bike with enclosed chainguard? posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/6/2001 at 9:08:24 AM
This is a 27 inch wheel, three speed bike. If you were to remove the rear slide piece, could you fit a deraileur gear wheel instead of the 3 speed or would it not fit? This is a chaincase from a 28 inch wheel model fitted at factory to a ten speed type frame. A 26 inch case would not fit and I doubt Raleigh made special 27 inch wheel enclosed chaincases. the price seems about right too.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   27 inch bike with enclosed chainguard? posted by Oscar on 7/8/2001 at 7:27:12 PM
A typical 27" 5 speed freewheel hub would not fit on this bike. 3 speed hubs are a handful of mm narrower. The only other 3 speed 27" was a Schwinn Suburban with an AW.

AGE / VALUE:    It's a wonderful, peacefull place to lose my mind posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/5/2001 at 8:55:07 AM
I revisited this one shop the other day that I keep haunting. All of a sudden I pull out two (46 and a 49 tooth) Stronglight alloy chainrings!
Now this is fustrating, because I have either done a really crappy job of sifting thru this place or he has bought up more inventory from who knows where. The fact there is so much stuff stacked up in such a way as I can't really pull it out and go thru it because there is no way to do this without being in the way of customers walking in the front door. I'm going to ask if I can move a row of glass showcases to get in there and do it properly. I know the answer I'll get. Plus, he has these drunken, idiotic/ annoying employees that drive me crazy until I cannot see straight. I will never forget dear, wonderful Miro who took perverse pleaseure out of hiding things on me as I was trying to clear it out and bring it home. I waited 7 years until he retired and I found it and bought it anyway. I laid my hands on the box and thought of him and I stuck out my toungue and went Nylllll! The owner's minions pile these junk bikes up in front of what I want to look thru. I have to slither in sideways, and trying to get something down and into my hands is a real art because I always trigger an avalanche of things and that brings on the owner saying things like "What are you doing over there"
All this combined with the fact that I am too stupid to know what I am looking at when I do find it doesn't help. I've pulled Ideale saddles,Simplex deraileurs and parts out of there but learning the ancient skill of middle Eastern haggling isn't easy. Can a water dowser rod be modified to look for vintage parts? You can't play it cool and act like you really don't want it when they know you have spent 4 hours digging it out and that you drive an hour to get there.
Needing a part to complete a project and finding it when you know full well that nobody else in town has it, is wonderful.
I have stripped down an Huret Alvit and have it cleaned and now I cannot get it back together. Silly me, What was I thinking! I saw a parts breakdown on the Alvit somewhere. But where?
Fourty- seven milk crates later and 3000 deraileurs later and I sit there having forgotten which specific model I went looking for. Still, it is wonderful to have that idiotic little part on another junk deraileur I kept for parts because now I need it. My mechanic didn't like the Cyclo and I have a Schwinn GT100 deraileur with it's sharp metal jockey wheels on the Sports. Some of these old deraileurs are wide enought to accept 1/2 X 1/8 chain.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Dyno Hub light wiring - HELP posted by: Jerry Goodman on 7/5/2001 at 8:31:59 AM
Re advice gratefully received for wiring a Dyno Hub, does anyone know where the light bulbs described below can be found in the UK ?

"There should be a separate wire to each lamp. Each lamp is earthed to the frame at its mounting clamp, and one of the two terminals at the dynohub should be earthed to the frame, or run twin wires to each lamp. Parallel wired.
Front bulb 6 volt 2.4 watt, rear bulb 0.4 or 0.6 watt, or thereabouts.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Dyno Hub light wiring - HELP posted by Rudgematch on 7/5/2001 at 1:38:21 PM
Reflectalite to the rescue!


   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Dyno Hub light wiring - HELP posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/5/2001 at 3:17:13 PM
Not only can you get bulbs to fit the Sturmey Archer G.H.6. Dynohub, but they have been upgraded and now you can fit halogen bulbs and these are brighter.
They look to have a wide selection of other cycle bulbs too.
Go reflectalite!

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Headset and locking fork posted by: Jacob on 7/4/2001 at 7:22:20 AM
Hello friends, Denmark is calling!

I'm allways excited and thrilled when I find another old, interesting bike, and this one is something special, I think.

It's a not very typical Raleigh Sports with rod-brakes engaging pads on the rims. It has non-removeable seatstays (unlike the roadsters), 26" wheels, enclosed chaincase with a brass-oiler, oiler in the BB too, a Brooks B66, gearcable pulley brazed on the toptube, a special kickstand with room for the rod-linkage to the rearwheel, a "king of the road" bell by Lucas, chain with the words "made in England by Coventry" stamped on every link, and it has a rack and original mudguards.

The rearhub is a FG four-speed Dynohub (dated 53). I showed this bike to a local bike-mechanic, who has been dealing and repairing Raleighs for 36 years, and he never saw a four-speed SA-hub before. He said to me, that the FG never was put on a new bike sold in Denmark.

This bike was imported privately to Denmark from England by a danish journalist, who worked as a correspondent in London. He purchased it in London on an auction 20 years ago and took it with him back home. It became mine just the other day.

The bike has been repainted in british racing green (I can live with that), and on that occasion it has been taken apart and put back together by a not very skillfull person (the work is of poor quality). And this leads my to where I need your help:
The assembly of the headset looks very strange to me. It seems that the bearing cups have been mixed up, so that the bottom cup is in the top and vice versa. As it is now, you can actually glimpse the balls inside the cup - both in the top and in the bottom. It looks all wrong to me, but then again I'm not sure, because the bike features a locking fork (I do not have the key), which maybe require more space above the crown to allow the fork to turn. Could this be the explanation to the weird headset? Or is just put together all wrong?

I hope you guys understand what this question is all about. It is hard for my to explain technical matters in english.
Here is the simpel version: Should a Raleigh with locking front have the standard headset, or is there a special set up of the head set for these bikes?

Besides: Now I have to roam the streets of Copenhagen in my search of head- and rearlight for the Dynohub. Unfortunately they where no longer on the bike, when I purchased it for 500 danish kroner (that would be about 55 USD)

Thanks for any response. Feel free to email my, if you wish.

I have several older Raleigh roadsters (and one new), a Batavus roadster (1982), two dansih Hamlet roadsters (1949 and 1966), an Anglo-Dane chopper (1972, very similar to the Raleigh chopper though it have Sachs gear), a 1980 Motobecane lightweight, a very nice Peugeot roadster (1982) and more...

Thank you

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Headset and locking fork posted by Edward in Vancouver on 7/4/2001 at 7:16:54 PM
Are you sure your bike is a "Sports" model? Most "Superbe" models came with dynohubs, locking forks, and rod brakes. Caliper brakes were standard with sports models, the dynohub was an option, and locking forks are almost always only available with "Superbe" models.
About a year ago I stood mystified at a sports consignment store, staring at a Raleigh Superbe bicycle. The bike was under three coats of silver spray paint,(yech!), and in need of alot of attention, but it seemed to call out to me...
About a year later, the same bicycle is re-painted, re-built, and is my pride and joy. I couldn't have done it without the help of all the people who visit this web site: Christopher Robin, Sheldon Brown, and Bill Putnam have all helped in one way or another to get my "muse" re-built, and on the road. At this site you will find all the information
and help you need to get your bike in working condition. Whether it's advice on making a key for your locking fork, or re-building the rare FG hub, it's all here. You will need only two things to get your bike on the road where it belongs: Time, and Money.

Regards, Edward in Vancouver

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Headset and locking fork posted by Jacob on 7/5/2001 at 12:46:39 AM
Hi Edward
You are probably right about the name of the model. The problem is, that in Denmark the Raleigh models have other names. What you call a DL-1 would be a Tourist de Luxe in Denmark, and a Sports would be a Club (even though it has nothing to do with a traditional club-machine as described by Sheldon Brown on his Raleigh-site). In Denmark most people would call my bike a Club-model because of the frame and the wheel-size. We also have the Superbe-designation, but I have never seen it on bikes older than 20-30 years. In Denmark Superbes often will have other colours than the traditional Raleigh-colours (green and black). Superbes will often have parts (handlebars, stem etc.) of aluminium.
I have a 1959 Raleigh (taken apart) with the Sports-frame, rod-brakes and 26" wheel. This bike was originally sold in Denmark, and it says "Club de Luxe" on the top-tube. But then again - to make the confusion complete - I once in a while (not to often) see Raleighs that says Sports on the (not enclosed) chainguard. All Tourist de Luxes and Clubs ind Denmark will have enclosed chaincases.

But one thing is model-designations - another thing is the weird headset....

Besides, Edward: I have family in Chilliwack (visited them in 1999).

All the best

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Headset and locking fork posted by Paul Aslanides on 7/5/2001 at 6:39:08 AM
One possibility is that larger bearings have been fitted to the headset, 5/32" or worse.
If you can see the bearings, are they caged or loose?

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Headset and locking fork posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/5/2001 at 10:03:01 AM
The headset on a Supurbe is the same as on the Sports or almost any other Raleigh model. The same headset went on a wide range of Raleigh's bikes. The larger or more flared out headset cup goes on the bottom. The smaller headset race cup goes on top where the handlebar stem is. You put 25 5/32 ball bearings in each race. A shop trick is to fill it up and take one out. They sell these Raleigh headsets N.O.S. here at oldroads.com Tighten it fully and then back it off just a bit, so there is no wobble and so that it turns freely. You should be able to adjust it just right. If there is wear but no pitting you are ok.If you see pitting then it is time to scare up a new headset for it.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Headset and locking fork posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/5/2001 at 10:28:23 AM
Then again the Denmark Raleigh's may be diffrent then the English made Raleigh's I describe. I took a look at one Danish Raleigh bicycle web site and the models were a bit diffrent.Get your flashlight and go looking in those basements, attics, sheds, barns wherever they store old bikes in Denmark.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Headset and locking fork posted by Jorge Ullfig on 7/5/2001 at 9:02:57 PM
Hello Jacob

Wherever they are from, Roadsters are a design statement reminiscent of
early safety cycles, simple lines, beautifully balanced.
About a month ago, while visiting Chicago, i saw parked in front of a
mom & pops Pharmacy, located on Dickens near Oz Park, in Lincon Park
(in case the owner is ciber connected) the most beautiful Roadster i have
yet seen, the problem, i was in a hurry and forgot the brand name, and now
that you mention Hunlet, it might be it, it looked brand new, thought i presume
it might have been about 10 years old, it had a very distinctive feature,
a pannier rack witch had sort of a frame pump canister horizontally on its side
and a bronze license plate holder with the brand name inscribed, any idea!

From sunny Puerto Rico


   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Headset and locking fork posted by Jacob on 7/7/2001 at 5:24:57 AM
After reading your postings and some research - here are my own conclusions:

I agree - it would be correct to call this bike a Superbe.

I took a look at Christoper Robins exploded Raleigh-diagrams here at OldRoads, and nothing indicates a "special headset" on a Raleigh with locking fork. It's just that this fork-feature is new to me, and I was tricked, because the headset actually works as it is now. But I'm going to re-fit it, or I'll find one of the used, useable Raleigh headset I got out in the garage.

Until the mid-80's you could buy Nottingham-build Raleighs in Denmark, and these would have the english BB's and headsets.
But the production of classic Raleighs continued for the danish market after the Nottingham-factory was closed down. The frames are build in Asia somewhere (could be Taiwan) and the paintjob is done in Holland. The headsets and BB's on these bikes are now according to (continental) European standards. It is this kind of bike, you have been studying on the web.
They come as single-speeds, three-speeds Sachs or five speed Sachs Pentasports with Brooks B66's. The rims are dutch van Schothorsts and the cotterles steelcrank is from Stronglight, while the BB is made in Slovakia. So now we have an international product.
I ordered mine 2000 Tourist de Luxe with SA hubbrakes (five speed) just before it all went Sun Racing.

I know about a bike that match your description: The Swedish "Kronan" have the pump canister and the license plate with the word "Kronan" (Crown), which is refering to Sweden as a monarchy. This is some kind of state-build bike (or built for the state by a private enterprise) used for postal service and the military. It is still produced and this summer it is becoming a trendy ride in Copenhagen, where you can see quite a few. (Denmark and Copenhagen is close to Sweden). How one of these bikes eventually made it to the USA, I dont know.
Besides, I was talking about a "Hamlet" (named after Shakespeares play) and not a "Hunlet".


   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Headset and locking fork posted by Jorge Üllfig on 7/7/2001 at 6:49:57 PM
Thanks Jacob, youre right, now that i recall
it was a Kronan, thanks for solving my riddle,
i almost planned a trip back to Chicago
to find out where that bike was from.
Now i have to find out more about this model!

And yes, Hamlet – spelling errot.

Thank you

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Headset and locking fork posted by Jacob on 7/9/2001 at 12:32:54 AM
Hello Jorge

Check out

Pictures of the Kronan and e-mail adress to a guy, who sell this bike in Denmark. He will probably be able to read and write english.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Headset and locking fork posted by Jorge Üllfig on 7/10/2001 at 8:10:58 PM
Hola Jacob
Thanks for the Kronan web page,
and guess what!, in the interim i got in touch with the
Department for Info 'bout Sweden and this is what they told me

Dear Sir,
I also thought it was Swedish...
Kronan is however from the Netherlands.
They have a web page: http://pub.kronan.nl/default.asp

Yours Sincerely
Information Officer
Department for Information about Sweden

and they sell for under $250.00 U$D, (sans shipping )its a
bargain for what i imagine, a well build European bike.

So, while were at it, i do have several bikes, one of them is
a mint original '60s Philips Deli Bike which I'm very proud of,
with rattan basket, SA Dynamo and light set and an old
’20s engraved bell, also a traditional new Pashley
for every day use.
I'm looking to add to my collection.
European bikes are hard to come by in this area since this is
hard core Schwinn country.

... and it all started out with Headset and locking fork!

Thanks again

AGE / VALUE:    posted by: Mark R. on 7/4/2001 at 6:18:53 AM
I have a question for all which although not exactly pertinent to english roadster "bicycles", never the less has a conection. You all may know of the quality problems I had with an Indian roadster bike, i.e. a lot of very poor quality parts, and etc...
Now, I have found that Royal Enfield in India make a very nice version of a 1954 Royal Enfield "Bullet" 500 thumper motorcycle. I really want one if it is of decent quality, but wow, the bicycle was REALLY BBBAAADDD! Does anyone have any experience with the motorcycles?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by Warren on 7/4/2001 at 8:41:37 PM
I don't ride one personally...I've got a 77 BMW R60, but I know a couple of people with them and have read some articles about them. They are pretty much the same technology as they were in the 50's with some nice upgrades like a 12v ignition system. Old technology also means easy to fix if you're handy. It also means that quality control is hit and miss. They are a fun, very cool, retro bike that will do 80 mph downhill with a stiff wind behind you. Inexpensive as well. E-mail me off-list if you have any more questions. (I'd buy a Beemer but I'm biased)

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/5/2001 at 10:10:56 AM
There is about 3 or 4 good motorcycle magazines in your newstand. This machine has been covered in "Classic Bike" This is a British published, wonderful magazine for people who love vintage motorcycles. A few other great publications will be near by that one. Read the advertisements and get bitten, but good by the old bike bug.
You should be able to find information on this model on the web. This is an old model made today. I do not own one of these but there is a lot to choose from once you get your nose into the magazines who knows what you will wind up with. This needs thourough research.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by Jacob on 7/7/2001 at 9:14:15 AM
Check out http://www.enfield.dk/artikel.html
Don't worry - there is an english version.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by Matthew on 7/8/2001 at 6:34:28 AM
Late 70's & early 80's Indian enfiled were a bit dire but after a take over and major reinvestment programme the later models built under the new ownership from about '95 onwards are very good. several models available. I hope this helps.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by Dewane on 7/9/2001 at 12:45:54 PM
I live in California and have never seen an Indian Enfield here (they can't be legally imported into California because of smog regulations). There are some companies in Britain that do modifications to them; I've seen one done up cafe style with lower, almost clip-on bars and it was beautiful. Most English motorcycle magazines, such as the Classic Motor Cycle, don't think too much of the new (1954) Enfields.

Roadster bicycles are prized for their reliability; older English motorcycles are another kettle of fish altogether. I do know quite a bit about old English singles and vertical twins; many friends had vertical twin motorcycles back in the seventies and my uncle still has a 500cc single BSA Gold Star that he raced on back in the seventies. Single cylinder motorcycles are known for their vibration, however they are also very simple and easy to work on.

If you're looking for a single cylinder motorcycle I'd recommend getting an old BSA 440 Victor; the Gold Stars are unbelievably expensive now and the Victors were known as being pretty reliable and almost tractor-like with their torque. The newer Triumphs are are good value for the money and very reliable, Triumph has a new vintage look Bonneville that is a vertical twin unlike most of their other motorcycles which have 3 cylinder engines.

I was at the World Superbike race at Laguna Seca CA yesterday and saw many new Triumphs and lots of bikes from a $100,000 Honda racing bike to an Excelsior-Henderson! Didn't see any Enfields though, and the only old English bike I saw was a Norton Commando (see a lot of those around here).

The Enfield can be upgraded with some more modern electrics such as electronic ignition (gets rid of the points).

   RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by WOW! on 7/9/2001 at 5:43:32 PM
WOW, thanks for the input! I knew this was the right place to ask. Maybe(for now), I'll stick to my DL-1 for the nostalgic trip :-)

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1930s Phillips posted by: Ian parker on 7/3/2001 at 8:51:39 PM
I recently acquired a Phillips 3 speed. The owner said it was her husbands but in the 50 years they were married she never saw him ride it. Must have been a very special relationship for her to have let him keep it all that time.
The bike is pretty conventional looking and is complete but rough.
3 speed Stermy Archer Hub
Shifter on the cross bar
Drum brakes front and back
Original red (and worn) tires
Steel fenders
One-piece Phillips crank
Big (original) rubber faced saddle

If anyone has any knowledge of what this is please let me know.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1930s Phillips posted by Warren on 7/4/2001 at 8:49:09 PM
Sounds like an interesting mix of parts. Tell me though...are the red tires 28 X 1 1/4 Dunlops? They are that funky oversize wheel that is usually found on race bikes of the period. You will not be able to find these tires if that is the case. Definitely a nice roadster to restore and it sounds like you've got all the components. The seat is likely a Dunlop as well although I didn't think they made them as far back as the 30's.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1930s Phillips posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/5/2001 at 8:44:43 AM
Contact John Pinkerton( Pinkerton Press) for tires.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1930s Phillips posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/5/2001 at 8:47:28 AM
A one piece crank? Does this have cotter pins on each side? This should have a three piece crank. I love those red tyres (tires)

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1930s Phillips posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/5/2001 at 10:16:34 AM

I don't know about finding red tyres but he is a great source of hard to find tyres and bits.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1930s Phillips posted by ChrtistopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/5/2001 at 10:31:19 AM
I'll probably be rough when I'm 70 years too. I just hope that I'll be complete.
Good find! Enjoy it.

AGE / VALUE:   1973 Peugeot posted by: Chris Carter on 7/3/2001 at 8:30:08 AM
I have a 1973 Peugeot in my basement, that my father bought for 2 reasons: He wanted a 10 speed, and it was the only one in the bike-shaop that was orange (He loves that color for some reason.) Unfortunately, the bike has aged better than my father, and the bike sits unused. I was wondering if anyone could help me with any information on a rebuild, such as if its possible to get modern components to fit, as well as if its worth the time to do it. I would much rather make use of an older, interesting frame, rather than spend more money on a new bike. However, I do want a reliable roadie. Any advice would be appreciated, please e-mail directly to starwolve@hotmail.com

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   50 or 60's BSA Tandem posted by: Braden Sterling on 7/2/2001 at 11:27:39 AM
I recentlly acquired a BSA tandem from a swap meet and I am looking for inforamtion on its original markings and original factory equipment. I would also like to know how to date the bicycle. the only BSA indication is the emblem on the steer tube and the Dunlop rims from england. please help.


AGE / VALUE:   50 or 60's BSA Tandem posted by: Braden Sterling on 7/2/2001 at 11:21:34 AM
I recentlly acquired a BSA tandem from a swap meet and I am looking for inforamtion on its original markings and original factory equipment. I would also like to know how to date the bicycle. the only BSA indication is the emblem on the steer tube and the Dunlop rims from england. please help.


AGE / VALUE:   Please don't foul my threads! posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/1/2001 at 10:05:56 AM
Well, It's another bike, a diffrent painter in another part of the planet and this time, by god they'd better stuff a rag in the bottom bracket (or whatever painters do) and keep paint out of my bottom bracket threads! The work was very good except the bottom bracket. This is what I got for having a "friend of a friend" do the work instead of going to well known, professional shop.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Please don't foul my threads! posted by Sheldon Brown on 7/1/2001 at 2:30:39 PM
Your local hardware store should have a cylindrical wire brush designed to mount in an electric drill. Typically, these are about an inch in diameter and 2-3 inches long. These work great for cleaning rust/paint/gurry out of bottom bracke threads. I keep one in my work area permanently chucked into a cheapo high-speed 1/4 drill I got at a yard sale for 5 bucks. Stick the brush in from the right side, and the threading will help expel the scunge out of both sides of the BB shell.

Sheldon "Thanks To Francis Bolag For Teaching Me This" Brown

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Please don't foul my threads! posted by Wings on 7/1/2001 at 10:17:13 PM
Christopher, what kind of paint did you use and how did the paint job turn out?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Please don't foul my threads! posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/1/2001 at 10:20:07 AM
I ran into difficulty finding old Raleigh 26 T.P.I. bottombracket taps to have it chased. Now if it was a Phillips (24) or something else then it would not have been an issue.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Please don't foul my threads! posted by Warren on 7/1/2001 at 2:23:38 PM
This is a good reason to throw old cups into the BB. I've re-used a couple of pair for both standard and Raleigh BB's several times. It doesn't hurt to throw in a seatpost, an oiler for the BB, headset cups in the head tube, threaded bolts in the fender eyelets etc. Use a razor to score the edges before removal to prevent chipping. All of these will make the rebuild easier.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Please don't foul my threads! posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/5/2001 at 10:35:38 AM
Baked Black Laquer, it should have been Enamel. I put it alongside a friends bike that was done in enamel and mine looked better. I don't know what brand of paint used. The shop went under and is now a nail salon and the painter went missing after I got the bike back. Thanks for the tip, it worked!

MISC:   Cyclo - Benelux 4 Speed posted by: Paul Aslanides on 6/30/2001 at 8:31:59 PM
We are currently rebuilding an old bike of unknown make and will soon be at the stage of fitting the Cyclo rear derailleur. It has been cleaned, greased etc, had new 1/8 bearings put into the jockey wheels. There is some wear on the selector rod, but it should still work o.k.
The main problem is that when the derailleur is mounted to
the axle (on its hanger bracket), the jockey cage fouls the spokes. Can someone advise on the setup procedure, please?
Is it correct to assume that inwards travel of the derailleur (to a bigger sprocket) is limited by the slack
in the cable? And that outwards travel is adjustable by the
nut on the barrel which contains the spring?
There is a small barrel adjusting screw on the lever at the top tube. Looks like it has to be set up with the cable in
place? It strikes me that in the unlikely chance that the
gear cable may break on the road, then the derailleur goes straight into the spokes, with disastrous results. Maybe that's why so few of them have survived? It's also possible that the plated arm which carries the jockey cage may be bent. I don't have anything to refer to for correct alignment. We have the four-speed cluster rebuilt, on an early Normandy hub with a new Michelin World Tour Tyre 27".
When this project is completed, there's a chap close by
who has an old, worn Ozgear (or Osgear) derailleur. If only he can be persuaded to part with it...here's hoping.

   RE:MISC:   Cyclo - Benelux 4 Speed posted by Sheldon Brown on 7/1/2001 at 2:27:30 PM
The old Benelux coil-spring derailers came in different versions for different freewheels. You ideally should have the version that was marked for "4sp 3/32 - 3sp 1/8." This should be on the bottom of the outer cage plate.

There is no high-gear adjustment except bending the arm, but the low gear is adjustable. Where the link chain disappears into the derailer, the part the chain bends around is knurled on the outside. If you turn this counterclockwise, the "low gear stop" will move outward, away from the spokes. There's a jam nut approximately 5/8-16mm on the threads that has to be loosened before you can adjust this, and tightened afterwards.

The outer flat spring cover needs to be cleaned and oiled _very_ frequently, like once a week if the bike is ridden regularly, if memory serves.

Sheldon "Cut My Cycling Teeth On These" Brown

   RE:RE:MISC:   Cyclo - Benelux 4 Speed posted by Paul Aslanides on 7/2/2001 at 5:45:29 AM
Many thanks, Sheldon and Chris. Knowing how to adjust it is
a great relief. It's marked '5 SP 3/32" 4 SP 1/8 '. The 1/8 is just visible with a magnifying glass.

One further question, if I may : There is a "tab" washer with a spring-loaded adjusting screw. I assume this is to
adjust the angle of the arm. If so, about what angle should
it be set, pointing the arm to the rear, or forward?
Or perhaps this is an adjustment to maximise chain wrap at
the front underside of the sprockets?

I reckon a new Sachs PC1 nickel plated 1/8 chain will finish this off nicely. Here's hoping the old sprockets will be able to handle it.

Many Thanks.

   RE:MISC:   Cyclo - Benelux 4 Speed posted by Sheldon Brown on 7/3/2001 at 3:07:32 PM
The official instructions for these derailers said that this screw (analogous to the "B-tension" screw on a modern derailer) should be set so that, in low gear, there would be 1 1/2 links of straight chain betwixt the jockey pulley and the largest sprocket.

Sheldon "Benelux Is An Acronym Made Up From 'BElgium, NEtherlands And LUXembourg" Brown

   RE:RE:MISC:   Cyclo - Benelux 4 Speed posted by Paul Aslanides on 7/4/2001 at 5:20:07 AM
Thankyou. Much obliged. Cheers.

   RE:MISC:   Cyclo - Benelux 4 Speed posted by Calvert Guthrie on 7/1/2001 at 1:05:32 AM
Chuck Schmidt at Velo-Retro has some very reasonably priced manuals/catalogs detailing the setup proceedures.
Best of luck,

   RE:RE:MISC:   Cyclo - Benelux 4 Speed posted by Paul Aslanides on 7/1/2001 at 6:18:36 AM
Thanks, Calvert. I've found the Velo-Retro site - it's great, and has some great links as well. Cheers.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Cyclo - Benelux 4 Speed posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/1/2001 at 9:44:45 AM
I'm told by my mechanic not to back pedal with these.

      Cyclo - Benelux 4 Speed posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/1/2001 at 10:22:16 AM
You are supposed to be able to adjust it so that it doesn't go near the spokes, even if the cable breaks.

AGE / VALUE:   interesting bike posted by: sam on 6/30/2001 at 1:32:42 PM
Chistopher,check out this bike on ebay(not for sale)#1161607877.You might know the chain ring pattern,If not I'm sure you'll like this bike anyway.

   RE:AGE / VALUE: Rare,unknown,very interesting bike posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 7/1/2001 at 10:30:37 AM
This is the shade of black paint that I want on my machines! Luscious deep blue/black. I cannot identify this bike but I really do like it! Vintage Cyclo deraileurs on a 28 inch wheel machine, looks like it folds too! This fellow has a real gem. I have never seen one of these before.

AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh U.K. news posted by: Paul Aslanides on 6/30/2001 at 7:13:40 AM
There is some business news of Raleigh U.K. at
Also, on other pages at the same site, further news of
Raleigh, and Schwinn-Csepel (Hungary); and Derby, the
firm which last owned Sturmey-Archer.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh U.K. news posted by graham on 7/1/2001 at 1:54:21 PM
can you tell me please, when was the last raliegh chopper built?