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Archived: English Roadsters

MISC:   Looking for advice again posted by: Bruce on 9/5/2001 at 8:10:41 AM
I'm contemplating having a Sprinter 7 speed hub installed on a Raleigh that currently has a 3 speed. I believe the dimension on the 7 speed are 121mm and i think the bike is originally built with a 110mm "spread". My chiropractor suggests that I stick with an "upright" bike as i have had a neck injury in the past. I really like the ride on a sports, but find I really need more gears for the longer rides. Does this seem like a sensible thing to do? I listed my 4 speed on ebay (1187850166). I had a sticker go thru my front tire on my last ride and fear having a rear flat in 105 degree temperatures. It has a rear dynohub so reconfiguring it with the 7 speed is out of the question. Thanks Bruce

   RE:MISC: Looking for advice again posted by Warren on 9/5/2001 at 10:09:05 AM
Sounds like a fine idea...I've seen a few of these conversions done. Whoever does it may havea a bit of difficulty speading the rear stays. That Raleigh steel isn't the most flexible, especially on the real old ones. Luck.

   RE:MISC:   Looking for advice again posted by DBean on 9/14/2001 at 7:25:18 AM
Check the importer's web site (www.permaco.com). I recall
that the 7-speed requires 130mm spread (modern frame size)
and that the 5-speed only requires 120mm, so it can be used
in old frames without spreading them.

MISC:šššSome thoughts on finding tools on the road posted by: Albert on 9/4/2001 at 3:25:46 PM
I find there are many benefits in "roadstering" some hundred or so miles each week. One that I particularly enjoy is that of finding tools on the roadway. Several times a week I stop to retrieve a wrench , wrench socket, or screwdriver lost by some unfortunate mechanic who failed to remove his tools from the vehicle after completing the job. Very often these are fine professional grade tools from companies such as Snap-on or Mac. You can well imagine the great number of such "finds" now in my possession after decades of cycling. I would like to hear from others who also " scan the roadways". Cheers from Philadelphia!

   RE:MISC:šššSome thoughts on finding tools on the road posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 9/4/2001 at 5:51:12 PM
As long as the truck or car ahead of me doesn't hit it and make it fly up and brain me as I travel along in trafic. Either on the bike or in the car. I didn't think they could put re-treads on a cement truck. Man, what a smokey mess with pieces flying all over the hood. Big coils of sheet steel,glass, the full bucket of paint and rollers the painter pros gave to our corner. Bricks,telephone poles, you name it, it can come loose. Too much is being carried on the highways. Bring back the rail system! This way I hear about it and don't have to participate in it. Dead animals that were unlucky and tragically indecisive. Due to lack of funds or help are being denied a proper state burial. Just keep me and mine away from the frisky 800lb deer.
I have'nt seen too many tools lately. Too many shrines letting us all know something tragic happened there to somebody we don't know.

   RE:MISC:šššSome thoughts on finding tools on the road posted by Ben on 9/4/2001 at 6:12:57 PM
Never found any Snap-on tools, but once found a $2, $20 and $50 bill in the range of about 40 yards of curb. First bill was the $2, and I slowed down. Next was the $20, then I got off and started combing the pavement. That's when I found the $50.

   RE:RE:MISC:šššSome thoughts on finding tools on the road posted by Art on 9/4/2001 at 7:16:31 PM
I've found my fair share of tools. Saw a portable cement mixer come loose from the hitch of a truck, careen across three lanes of traffic at 6am and just narrowly missed me. Found a dog once, while I was commuting to work, stuck on the bottom step on the side of a canal. He was a puppy, really cold and wet, stuck in six inches of dirty water, unable to get up to the next step. I had to double back to get him cause he was on the other side. I pulled him out and rode with him to school. He was shivering under my right arm but he didn't squirm a bit. School nurse took him home and he lives on. Found a bag of neck ties...Armani, Hugo Boss, high end stuff... last week. Perfect shape. Must have been taken by a homeless guy from outside the St. Vincent de Paul that borders the bike path. Took what he needed and left the ties. I took them home. Wore one to work Friday. Everyone said they liked the tie but I didn't tell them where I got it.

   RE:MISC:šššSome thoughts on finding tools on the road posted by Fred on 9/4/2001 at 8:46:01 PM
I too have found tools on the road but last year I found one of my own wrenches. I had done some routine maintenance on my van the day before and had dropped a short, half inch combination wrench down in the engine compartment. If you have looked under the hood of a modern automobile you will know you can lose things in there. I looked for the wrench but couldn't find it so wrote it off. The next day we were in town and when I turned off into a mall, my wife said she heard something hit the pavement. I had also heard it but it didn't register immediately what had made the noise. I parked and went back to see, and there lay my wrench against the curb. The centrifical force of turning or the large bump at the entrance must have jarred the wrench loose. Just recently I carelessly dropped a float bowl needle down into the area of the transmission of my 55 Triumph Thunderbird and have never found it. My son and I did every thing but turn the machine upside down to no avail. It cost me $16 and shipping for that little caper. Another thing along those lines has happened to me a couple of times in 50 years of driving. One time I was polishing my car and since it was convenient I sat a glass of water on the back bumper. After I finished, I drove to the store a mile away and returned home to find the glass of water still sitting on the bumper.

   RE:MISC:šššSome thoughts on finding tools on the road posted by Gary M on 9/4/2001 at 9:52:35 PM
I totally agree, i found a ton of tools that way, of all species, but being a professional mechanic for 18 yrs i lost much more then i ever found. those vehicles hide things big time. The funny part here is many times i have left tools, test equipment, old parts on Semi tractors and found them later when it was in for repairs. In Fact, i tore down an engine in a Mercedes i rebuilt under warranty, and found one of my sockets, an extension, and a line wrench behinnd the fuel pump where they had obviously ridden for the life span of the engine, over 10 years.

   RE:RE:MISC:šššSome thoughts on finding tools on the road posted by Jeff on 9/5/2001 at 9:47:45 AM
My father-in-law loves to go on long walks through Cedar Rapids, Iowa. He has shelves full of things he has found: socket sets, screwdrivers, hammers, paint brushes, bungee cords, pliers, Visegrips ... in addition to box after box of assorted nuts, bolts and screws. It's amazing what falls out of trucks as they travel city streets. As for me, I found a trowel that a brick mason inadvertently left behind when our house was veneered in 1921. It's still useable.

   RE:MISC:šššSome thoughts on finding tools on the road posted by Ray on 9/5/2001 at 1:36:41 PM
I once told my wife and some friends that given enough time I could find enough part to build a complete car. Then I could find the tools to do the work. I have seen a complete car roof, several fenders, trim, lights, spark plugs, distributor, pipes, brakes and more. Oh and yes I do have some great tools. I have also seen my share of abandoned bikes. I live in the east but when I travel to the west coast I see hundreds of bikes locked to poles and fences all over the beaches and they are just rusting away slowly and you can see they have not been ridden in years. What is up with that?

   RE:MISC:šššSome thoughts on finding tools on the road posted by Mark R. on 9/5/2001 at 1:50:45 PM
I also always find tools, but the best one I ever found was an almost new Skil saw! I found that years ago, and still have it. Oh! Once , believe it or not, I found a Harley Davidson motorcycle stashed in the woods near the road! The cops took that though:-(

   RE:MISC:sssSome thoughts on finding tools on the road posted by Sheldon Brown on 9/9/2001 at 8:33:53 PM
Some of my favorite tools came to me this way.

When I moved to France for a year in 1988, my daughter's Cinelli BMX bike had Lyotard pedals that needed a 17 mm wrench instead of the usual 15 mm. I packed a Craftsman 17 mm combination wrench along with the other tools I brought, but it fell out of the box on the airplane and was never seen again.

When we got over to France and settled into our rented house in Chevreuse, the first time I went for a ride, half a kilometer fromt the house, I found a lovely Facom 17 mm combination wrench (French equivalent of Snap-On) so I was able to re-assemble my daughter's bike!

Back in the '70s, in Cambridge Mass., I found a film can full of high-quality weed!

Sheldon "Those Were The Days" Brown

AGE / VALUE:   What is this? posted by: joel on 9/3/2001 at 6:03:39 PM
I'm trying to determine the maker and maybe rough age of a bike I picked up at a garage sale the other day for my girlfriend.

It is a black women's frame with forks that look a lot like Raliegh. The forks have chrome indented cups on either side. The tires are 26 by 1 3/8. It is a one speed with a Japanese (?) rear hub. The crank is a three piece deal. The fenders have a ridge running down the top center of them.
The only identifing mark on it is a sticker on the seat tube that says "Roddy."

Anyone got any ideas?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   What is this? posted by sam on 9/4/2001 at 1:40:04 PM
I have a raleigh clone made in India with the shamino 333 hub.It has the same finders and fork style as raleigh

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   What is this? posted by Dale Oswald on 9/5/2001 at 9:58:42 AM
In the mid-70s I saw a bike that almost made me die laughing. It was a really cheap ten speed, painted to match a '72 Raleigh International (chartreuse with red lettering). It was labelled, no fooling, a "Roddy International".

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Decals? posted by: Tom Faust on 9/3/2001 at 4:39:06 AM
I know this topic has been raised before, but I'm hoping for a different answer. My '69 Sports is finally ready for a paint job. Is there any source for Raleigh decals, particularly the Made in England decal.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Decals? posted by Jorge Üllfig on 9/4/2001 at 11:12:54 PM
Yes, they have to be Waterslide or maybe Varnish Fix
and about 65 to 75 mm long for my restoration.

AGE / VALUE:   Rover bicycle posted by: Wayne Martin on 9/2/2001 at 3:52:16 PM
Anyone have any info on a Rover bicycle? Any resources for reproduction 28 x 1 1/2 white wall tires? See the bike at www.geocities.com/mil_works/bike.jpg Any info would be appreciated.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Rover bicycle posted by Kevin C. on 9/3/2001 at 5:59:14 AM
Great old bike! It appears to be from the 1920s or very early 1930s. Many makers made bikes nearly identical to it, with 28 inch single-tube tires and standard frames. There could have been two or more "Rover" companies, but the book "Collecting and Restoring Antique Bicycles," by G. Donald Adams lists a Humber-Rover Cycle Co. in Chicago in 1892. One of the reasons why these bikes aren't especially valuable is because of the single-tube tires. The cheapest source of new ones I have ever found (still, $80 each) is Harper Machine Shop, Dunbar, West Va. Their phone number is 1-304-768-1147. They come in blackwall only. Other places get $125-$150 each for single-tubes. Old ones would be OK for display but most would probably be too hard and/or rotten to ride or even hold air.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Rover bicycle posted by sam on 9/4/2001 at 1:59:28 PM
interesting bike,check out sheldons browns web site for his mead ranger.as kevin said the single tube tires are pricey,One way to get around that would be to lace a 40 hole new departure hub to english 28" rims.ride on the english rims display the single tubs---sam

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Rover bicycle posted by Wayne Martin on 9/4/2001 at 2:54:58 PM
Thanks for the help Kevin and Sam. I just found out the tires are the clincher type and Sheldon Browns site has the tires and tubes. Manufacturer is still a mystery.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Rover bicycle posted by Wayne Martin on 9/4/2001 at 2:59:05 PM
To clarify my last comment- Manufacturer of the bicycle not the tires/tubes

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Rover bicycle posted by sam on 9/4/2001 at 5:54:29 PM
Clincher tires were avalible in the early 30s.They appear to be kinda at a time when the bicycle industory was moving from single tube to balloon tires.The book on collectable elgins and hawthorns list several type of tires in the early 30s , your choise on the bike,by the 40s these odd tires were only offered as replacements.Your bike could be an early 30s bike.I've seen several of the Mead catalogs and they offered a bike that looked like yours.The mead company was from Chicago---sam

   AGE / VALUE: Phillips bicycle posted by paul beard on 9/10/2001 at 2:56:15 PM
I just picked up a Phillips yesterday and I have no idea how old it may be, what kind (in case I need parts, etc). It's a large but lightweight road bike, plastic mudguards (they look original), Shimano gearing. No idea where to find a serial or model number.

   RE:AGE / VALUE: Phillips bicycle posted by Phillips bike on 10/3/2001 at 12:19:34 AM
I too just found an old Phillips. I'm also having trouble finding info on the bike. I did find some information on the back hub, printed into the chrome. Also, Phillips was purchased in the early 60's by Raleigh bikes, so I might write to them with a serial number and see if they can help me. Good luck. Let me know if you find anything!

AGE / VALUE:   Big Hoops;reply to Kieth posted by: chris andrews on 9/2/2001 at 11:30:22 AM
I agree with Mark R. and others; big wheels smooth out the bumps. Before the safety bicycle became popular, most bikes ("ordinaries" had driven front wheels about 50 inches in diameter. Most roads at that time were not paved, at least in America. Cars also used big wheels with tires 30 to 36-inch size. If you draw a wheel and an object (such as a stone) it is about to ride over, and drawa line between the top of the stone and the contact point of the wheel, it will make an angle with the ground. The larger the wheel, the smaller the angle, so the less abrupt the lifting of the wheel. In the 1920's, most bikes had 28-inch tubular tires that glued to a wooden rim; (sometimes these rims were "armored" with plated metal, but they were still wood. The glue was a sort of rubber cement now used to attach "sew up" tubulars. I had these on my 1918(?) Pierce Arrow, and on an Iver Johnson. There were still plenty of them around in the 30's and 40's.

   RE:AGE / VALUE: Big Hoops and smooth rides posted by Warren on 9/2/2001 at 7:54:42 PM
I agree with some of this...but I think it's the wheelbase that plays the more important role in the smoothness of the ride. And in the case of roadsters, it's also the diameter of the tire that adds to this smoothness. A 700c racing wheel and high pressure tire on a compact aluminum frame will not be a smooth ride where the same diameter wheel with 700 X 45 tires on a roadster will float over bumps. Few bikes have a larger wheelbase than a DL-1.

I also think the large size of "ordinarys" had to do with gaining a higher top speed with their direct drive pedals as opposed to providing comfort.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Big Hoops and smooth rides posted by Sheldon Brown on 9/2/2001 at 8:44:08 PM
First off, let me say that it is long past time to stop calling high-wheelers "ordinaries." They stopped being the ordinary type of bike a century ago.

The large wheel was, indeed primarily for the sake of a higher "gear" but hard-tired chain-drive safetys had as high or higher gearing, but were not widely accepted due to their harsh ride.

It was only the invention of the pneumatic tyre that allowed the safety to offer an acceptably smooth ride, and to surplant the high-wheeler.

Sheldon "Today I Went Mountainbiking On My New Raleigh M8000 Full-boinger With Hydraulic Disk Brakes-It Was Fun, But It Sure Was Different" Brown

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Big Hoops and smooth rides posted by Warren on 9/2/2001 at 8:56:47 PM
So can we call them "oldinaries"..."extraordinaries"...

You're getting soft Sheldon,(in the butt). Certainly not in the head...look at the length of that signature line! It would take me at least half an hour to compose that one.

Let me try...

Warren "still gotta a hard butt from my new/old fixed-gear-Dunelt club bike" Young.

Still needs work I think.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Big Hoops and smooth rides posted by Wings on 9/2/2001 at 10:27:03 PM
There is nothing "ORDINARY" or smooth on my recent find that I just rebuilt. A heavy, low end, Recumbent Tricycle! I rebuilt the wheels to use alloy 20 inch wheels (20X1.95) and put a 16x2.1 tire on the front -- it made a big difference. I also replaced the one piece crank (46 tooth ring) with a Sugino 3 piece (22, 32,42) of which I am using the 32 ring ustil I do some welding to mount a front derailer or install a SA 3 speed in the drive train somehow!!! It is heavy, gets lots of looks, it's fun and it is cool!
Signed: Always leaning toward the center of the road while on my RECUMBENT TRICYCLE WINGS; while avoiding crossing road irregularites at top speed that are not perpendicular to my line of travel ANDERSON.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Big Hoops and smooth rides posted by JOEL on 9/5/2001 at 1:57:49 PM
Back to the use of big hoops on a mountain bike...

Bigger wheels may in fact smooth out bumps but how will they effect the handling of the bike? I would assume that either the rider's center of gravity would be raised or the wheel base would have to be longer. Neither of these things would be desirable (at least for me). Were the big wheels to be used for some special application (like a downhill bike?)

AGE / VALUE:   Legnano; response to Zipper posted by: chris andrews on 9/2/2001 at 11:30:22 AM
Legnano is a city in northern Italy just above Milan. Legnano was a bike manufacturer with a fairly large operation; they used induction brazing. I bought a NOS Legnano track bike about 1963, which had Campagnolo cranks and a Cinelli stem and handlebar, and silk sew-up tires.
Legnano frames were distinguished by having the seatpost binder bolt INSIDE the frame triangle. I have a full page ad of that period showing a Legnano road bike.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Triumph mens 3 speed posted by: james on 9/2/2001 at 7:43:40 AM
I have a old triumph, 3 speed mens bicycle. I don't see anything that would tell me what make it is. If anyone could help with and hints or tips on how to figure out what I have I would greatly apreciate it. I can take a photo of the bike and send it to you or post it here.

thanks for any help you can give

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Triumph mens 3 speed posted by Warren on 9/2/2001 at 11:29:01 AM
Here's a couple of quick tips...if the rear fender eyelets are directly behing the axle, then it is a Raleigh made Triumph. Check the Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub for a month and year mark...ie; 7 73. Now you know a whole lot more than you did before. If it is much older than the 70's, then feel free to ask more questions.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Triumph mens 3 speed posted by Warren on 9/2/2001 at 11:33:58 AM
One other thing...if you REALLY want to know more about english 3 speeds and especially Raleighs, than go to http://www.sheldonbrown.com/oldbikes/index.html for all the dirt on this type of bike. Be forewarned, it's highly addictive.

MISC:   FOLDING BICYCLES posted by: Paul Aslanides on 9/2/2001 at 7:18:18 AM
The Folding Society's website is about to close. It has a wealth of info. re. folding bikes, mostly modern types.
The Legnano folder (mentioned further back) sounds both rare and interesting.
fold.soc/uk (search).

   RE:MISC:   FOLDING BICYCLES posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 9/6/2001 at 5:17:30 PM
What? How? Why? This would be a terrible loss.

   RE:MISC:   FOLDING BICYCLES posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 9/6/2001 at 5:49:43 PM
Well I did a search and I cannot find it. Bad news, real bad.
Search yourself, perhaps I missed it.

WANTED:   Raleigh Industries grey rubber grips posted by: GMP on 9/1/2001 at 9:30:03 PM
> Does anyone have any suggestions as to where I might find a few pairs of the old RI egg-shaped grips. NOS or used.... I have been after them for some time, and the only ones I can find are invariably attached to someone else's roadster.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Squeaky problem fixed posted by: Edward in Vancouver on 9/1/2001 at 6:31:46 PM
Regarding my squeaky B66 seat,I think I've got that problem licked, temporariy. Just squirt a little WD 30 on the bolts that hold the springs to the frame, and the squeaking stops. Who says I have to go on a diet?
After the seat stoped squeaking, I became aware of anothr annoying noise, rust rolling around in the Raligh pattern rims. This had been bugging me for quite a while, eough to make me take off the front wheel (with drum brake) and remove the tire and tube. I mixed up a batch of Oxalic acid (wood bleach crystals)laid the wheel flat on the bench, and with a 20 CC needle (no jokes about needles and Vancouver O.K.?) injected the stuff into those little holes along the rim untill it started dripping out. Let it soak overnight and then let it drip out. No more rust running around. Just to make sure, I switched spray nozzles from the WD30 can to a can of cheapo hairspray, and with the red tube, injected a good squirt of hairspray into the rim. For a few days I had an almost noiseless bike, until the masterlink started banging against the chainguard...

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Squeaky problem fixed posted by GMP on 9/1/2001 at 8:52:14 PM
I've had the same squeeky seat problem before and solved it in much the same way... a few drops of 3 in 1 which I find lasts a little longer than WD40. Incidentally, I knew a guy who used to use WD40 to relieve arthritis. He swore it worked every time, but then again he's dead now.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Squeaky problem fixed posted by Ben on 9/4/2001 at 6:20:47 PM
What I want to know is: is WD 30 cheaper than WD 40?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Squeaky problem fixed posted by GMP on 9/4/2001 at 11:36:32 PM
They are exactly the same price, the only difference being the former comes in an invisible can.

FOR SALE:   FS: NOS Sturmey-Archer 3-speed cables. $6 ppd. posted by: Kevin on 9/1/2001 at 11:14:34 AM
$6 each, postpaid. New Old Stock Sturmey-Archer three-speed cables with gray housings. These were made for Raleigh Sports and similar three-speeds. They are not the "one size fits all" type now found, but rather are made specifically for these bikes. I also have a few with white housings.

   RE:FOR SALE:   FS: NOS Sturmey-Archer 3-speed cables. $6 ppd. posted by Dale Oswald on 9/5/2001 at 10:03:45 AM
Please supply the lengths of the 1) housing and 2) overall length.

WANTED:   Robin Hood Decal Source posted by: David P. Goncalves on 8/31/2001 at 7:58:19 PM

I would like to know if anybody knows where one may purchase a decal set for the mid 60's Robin Hood. Please e-mail if you would like to sell a set.

David P. Goncalves

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Roadster back on road posted by: Richard Silber on 8/31/2001 at 6:44:11 PM
After 30 years storage,just put my circa 1952 Raleigh Roadster back on the road. Has rod brakes[no cables], Sturmey-Archer 3 speed,rear dynahub,battery pack,pump, locking fork, chaincase, Brooks seat, tool kit, tool case. Color is dark green. My father bought it for me in 1953 for $100 from a neighbor who brought it back from Europe.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Roadster back on road posted by John on 8/31/2001 at 8:36:17 PM
Wow! $100 for a used bike was a lot of money in 1953. Aren't you glad you kept it all these years? Sounds like a nice one, and better yet, it has sentimental value.

MISC:   ??????? posted by: GMP on 8/31/2001 at 12:07:52 PM
Have any of you out there ever heard of a maker; JAGED RING. English?