This is an archive of Vintage Bicycle Information.
For current Discussions, go to our main site: OldRoads.com

If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.

If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.

Archived: English Roadsters

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Converting 26" (590?) to 700 posted by: Robert on 9/9/2001 at 5:18:35 PM
I may have asked this before , but can't find anything in the old messages. I would like to put 700 rims/tires on my Sport. Will fenders and calipers work or will they have to modified to work? Thanks

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Converting 26 posted by Warren on 9/9/2001 at 6:27:38 PM
Yes the 700cs will fit fine and with a little fussing you can get a pair of lightweight fenders to fit. Even better (or worse), you can then use more modern short reach calipers for good stopping power. This setup works well for a fixed gear conversion. I just finished one,

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Converting 26 posted by Warren on 9/9/2001 at 6:33:26 PM
Yes the 700cs will fit fine and with a little fussing you can get a pair of lightweight fenders to fit. Even better (or worse), you can then use more modern short reach calipers for good stopping power. This setup works well for a fixed gear conversion. I just finished one,

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Converting 26 posted by Warren on 9/9/2001 at 6:34:32 PM
There's an echo on this site...site...site...

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Converting 26 posted by Norman F. Birnberg on 9/10/2001 at 1:31:04 AM
Its been done with no problems. Sheldon Brown built 700C wheels for my Raleigh Superbe two years ago and the rear was fitted with a 7 speed Shimano Nexus hub. The brake reach problem was solved by building front& rear drum brakes. A pair of Continental Top Touring 32C tires are used on the wheels and it makes for a very nice ride. This conversion will make it easier to find a wider choice of tubes and tires in the event you ever need to replace them.
Sure go ahead and update your Raleigh Sports. It won't hurt and can even help further by giving you increased ground (always a good thing) clearance by raising the bottom bracket and the lighter wheels make the ride seem like a breeze.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Converting 26 posted by Robert on 9/11/2001 at 6:38:14 AM
What type of "fussing" was necessary with the fenders on your ride? Any tips you can give? Email me if you like.


   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Converting 26 posted by Albert on 9/11/2001 at 11:49:16 AM
I've tried several such conversions and found them to be less than satisfactory. The switch to 700c or 27" wheels dramatcally changes the cycles steering geometry. The trail and what would be referred to in the automotive feild as "scrub angle" changes. Simply put the cycle just doesn't feel right. A more worthwile effort would be in changing the cottered crank to an alloy cotterless. Cottered cranks are difficult to live with as removal at maintenance time is often difficult if you don't have a cotter-press such the one offered by Park. Replacing a cotter damaged in removal can be vexing as you are never quite sure, even with careful filing of the pin,that the reinstalled crankarms are 180-degrees apart. And so you find yourself cycling down the road wondering just how much efficiency is lost with your newly installed crankarms at 178-degrees! The cotterless of course helps you avoid all of this and enables you to change the direct gear ratio. I use a 40/19 combination with the SA AW for a very ridable choice of gear ratios. The typical 46/18 found on many roadsters as equiped is just another example of the British cycle industry's stupidity. So by all means improve your roadster's perfomance; however, not with a wheel size change but a switch from cottered to cotterless cranks.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Converting 26 posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 9/12/2001 at 9:48:43 AM
I agree with Albert. However, the folks who have forsaken the 26 X 1 3/8 wheels for something larger still like what they have done anyway. Some people like the feel this gives I guess. For me, I rode about and soon regretted the "sin" I had committed with the Raleigh Sports. This awkward feel combined with my mechanic calling me a "twit" made me switch it back. Puting alloy 26 X 1 3/8 rims instead of the standard steel rims on the bike is a good place to start, then go to cotterless cranks and enjoy.
When the Raleigh D.L.1. became daily transport for me the two things I grew to dislike were the shift cable problems and the cottered cranks.
One fellow who did a lot of riding cross country used a New Departure DD two speed hub and so I have to put one of these in some day and try it out.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Converting 26 posted by Warren on 9/12/2001 at 3:28:53 PM
I say fussing because, you have less clearnce on a frame designed for smaller wheels and the Raleighs have the unusual mounting positions on the rear. If you can find a good pair of Bluemels,you may have to open up the mounting hole on the front fender bracket to allow it to slide up as high as possible to clear the tires.

But you probably know that. This happens all too often.

I also agree with the concensus that 26 X 1 3/8 allow rims make for a great ride. I have one pair and I love them. Maybe someone can post where they can be found.

AGE / VALUE:   Off Topic posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 9/9/2001 at 9:54:50 AM
Last night on Antiques Roadshow there was a fellow who found $35,000 worth of origonal animation art by Widnsor McCay(The father of Animation and artist behind Little Nemo in Slumberland) It was in a old theatre owned by late Vaudeville star Billy Van. Billy was a friend of Windsor McCay. Even the most knowlegable and informed collectors miss out on things sometimes. This find was a fluke and the current owners didn't care less and Billy left it to rot. It was given to the finder who framed it.
I love this show on P.B.S. As of yet nobody has brought in a bicycle of any kind.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Off Topic posted by Jeff on 9/9/2001 at 10:57:33 AM
Actually just last week there was an episode where very briefly I saw a lady in line with a bike. It didn't look like anything special (plain middleweight or something)so I doubt it will ever be on the air. It seems that they only show items that one of the appraisers is very familiar with. Must not be any bike experts on the staff yet. This could be a good thing because I remember back in the early nineties there was a lot of media hype around bicycle collecting that drove prices sky high. You couldn't touch a bike like a Phantom for under a grand in any condition and now there's nice ones on eBay for about half that.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Off Topic posted by Cal on 9/10/2001 at 6:34:27 AM
I love that show, too and have also never seen a bicycle appraised...
BUT! On the wall of almost every show there's always that giant mural with a woman's turn-of-the-century safety bicycle. Subliminal queues, at least!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Off Topic posted by Mike on 9/10/2001 at 6:35:42 AM
A couple years ago someone brought in a complete Hopalong Cassidy bike. It was appraised in the mid $3000's, which I thought a bit stiff for a kiddie bike.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Off Topic posted by JOEL on 9/10/2001 at 1:26:29 PM
The apprasals always seem a bit high. When they came to my town, I heard that the insurance company that sponsors the show kindly offered to insure people's treasures as they were leaving. Hmmm...

And no, I've never seen a bike either (except that one in the background).

AGE / VALUE:    posted by: Mark R. on 9/9/2001 at 4:32:26 AM
WOW! I found and bought a 1979 "Tourist" DL-1 at a local flea market yesterday, and you all should see how nice it is! Brooks B-66, pump, the whole deal.
Some guy was showing it to another guy, and I did not know they were making a deal to buy it. I later saw the new guy with it and I asked him what his plans were for it. He says he wanted to sell it, and that I could have it for a hundred bucks. SOLD!
I will try to post a photo of it in the photo gallery.
I never thought I'd find one in almost new condition. It is the 22 in frame size and seems just a little small, at least compaired to my 24 in DL-1. My brother who also is a Raleigh nut, nearly flipped when he rode it. He said he never thought he'd ever get to experience what one of these in like new condition( it's sweet!).
Keep up searching guys, 'cause they ARE out there.
If anyone wants to see it, please e-mail me, and I'll try to e-mail some photos.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by Jeff on 9/9/2001 at 11:03:34 AM
Im I glad to hear that some nice bikes are still popping up. This has been a very dry year for me. I bought a Schwinn Collegiate for parts this year and that has been about it until yesterday morning when I found a super clean 1967 Raleigh Sport for $25.00. Yes, there is still stuff out there, it's not all hidden :)

   RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by Ed L on 9/11/2001 at 5:43:16 AM
Congratulations on a great deal.I found one last spring in near nos condition,but paid significantly more than a hundred. The man that I bought mine from has another one in not quite as good shape that he,ll take two hundred for,and just last weekend I spotted one in a small shop in Newport News Va.,asking price four twenty-five.Good luck with yours.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   SHORTENING SHIFT CABLE posted by: Dorian Smith on 9/8/2001 at 9:25:48 PM
After a year's hesitation and sporadic fiddling, I finally revived a 1970 Raleigh Sports. I took it for a short trip this weekend and was thrilled by the ride. But I wasn't able to get down in the first gear. I read Sheldon Brown's advice on adjusting the cable. But even after I tightened the adjuster all the way, the rear hub couldn't get into the lowest gear without my holding down the trigger shifter constantly. Not a confident riding position. I figured the cable had stretched too far. So, to shorten the cable I cut off the stop that prevents the cable from running through the shifter end (there's another stop on the chain-adjuster end). Unfortunately I can't find anything to replace the stop. Now I have two questions:

-- Is this the way to shorten a shift cable?
-- Or should a shift cable just be replaced instead of shortened?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   SHORTENING SHIFT CABLE posted by GMP on 9/9/2001 at 12:09:08 AM
> I think I understand you correctly. There are plenty of guys here that can give you better advice than I can, but if you don't mind my incorrect terminology I'll give it a shot. Many of the cables I see for sale on the net are advertised as a one size fits all proposition. My experience has been somewhat contrary to this. Although almost any length cable can be adjusted to fit any particular bicycle, they seem to have been sized to the distance they have to travel on the frame, which is logical. In any event, It sounds like the cable on your machine is the one it started with, so this is unimportant. The way to correct the problem would have been to set the cable and then adjust it... which is to say, reposition the stops with the shifter in third gear until the exposed cable between the rear stop and the linkage/barrel adjuster were taught. It helps to start with the barrel adjuster at dead center on the threaded shaft of the linkage to give you plenty of room either way when actually adjusting the gears, which would have been the next step. As it is, It sounds like you have killed the cable you've got. Im not sure how you managed to get the 'stop' off the cable shielding at the shifter without cutting the cable itself with the crimping, if in fact thats what you did. If you did cut the cable, slide the 'stop' less the clipped off shielding back into position onto what's left of the cable housing and re-crimp the end of the cable with some brass tubing of approx. 1/16th", which you slide onto the cable and then pop twice with a hammer using a slotted screw-driver as chisel. The brass tubing should be available at a good art supply or hobby shop.
Or save yourself alot of trouble and buy a new shifter cable which I believe they sell on this sight in the 'parts for sale' section.
Hope I'm not talking out of turn.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   SHORTENING SHIFT CABLE posted by Sheldon Brown on 9/9/2001 at 8:22:35 PM
No, GMP, you're wrong, there's nobody here that can give better advice on this problem.

I will add that the newer cables use a bolt-on "anchorage" to connect to the indicator spindle. This is uglier than the traditional specific-sized cables, but it works. The anchorages are available separately, for about 3 bucks, and would probably salvage his cable (though it would no longer be "stock," if he cares.

Sheldon Brown

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   SHORTENING SHIFT CABLE posted by Albert on 9/11/2001 at 11:57:39 AM
I often shorten cables by cutting them a few inches above the adjustment barrel and the splicing the ends back together with the tapped pinched bolt from a disgarded brake caliper. No, its not pretty but it works.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh info posted by: Charles on 9/8/2001 at 3:41:02 AM
Wanted to know if the early Raleigh's (circa 1920) was basicly the same bike as the later Tourist model of the 1970's - they look very similar. Also, wish to confirm what Raleigh's mascot is, a goose ?, a cormorant ? plus any reasons for it's use.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh info posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 9/8/2001 at 7:25:29 AM
The 1920's Raleigh rod brake bicycle is very similar to the 1970's version. The badge on the bike is a heron which is Raleigh'slogo.We have not yet figured out why this was adopted but it was a smart and elegant choice.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Austrian bicycles posted by: cindy dmn on 9/7/2001 at 11:34:57 PM
I have this great big tall bicycle that has Gazelles on the chain sprocket. I haven't ridden it yet without getting on the tow truck next door. It has those brake levers instead of cables. It has drum brakes and zert fittings with lids for the grease on the hubs. It is so great. Can anyone tell me something about it? Thanks Cindy DMN

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Austrian bicycles posted by Jorge Üllfig on 9/8/2001 at 6:46:54 PM
Very simple;
or better yet
Vintage Dutch Bicycles

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Austrian bicycles posted by Jorge on 9/8/2001 at 6:52:12 PM
its http://www.rijwiel.net

AGE / VALUE:   H/D dunlop tires posted by: sam on 9/7/2001 at 1:23:16 PM
After reading Jorge's post on the army bike ,I must ask .Jorge,are the dunlop carrier tires avalible?Where can we get british 26x1&3/4 or 26"x2" dunlop(or other brands)for old British army bikes?--sam

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   H/D dunlop tires posted by Jeff on 9/8/2001 at 7:23:55 AM
I need a pair of Dunlop 26 x 2.0 tyres too. I think they are as rare as heron's teeth though. If you find any, drop me a line.


   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   H/D dunlop tires posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 9/8/2001 at 7:42:03 AM
Dunlop made 26 X 2 steel moped rims drilled for heavy duty spokes.I would read this today after leaving it there! What good is one 32 spoke moped rim, when I don't have a Raleigh moped!
Now I gotta go back there!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   H/D dunlop tires posted by Jorge on 9/8/2001 at 5:48:04 PM
Tires available at St John St Cycles, www.sjscycles –
Michellin Furg Rinfordazo DRS,
Vredestein also makes this tire size.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   H/D dunlop tires posted by Jorge on 9/8/2001 at 5:49:52 PM

MISC:   Folding Bicycles posted by: Paul Aslanides on 9/7/2001 at 4:27:02 AM
My apologies. Here is the correct url for the Folding Society's website:
Back issues of 'Folding Society News' can be accessed, plain or formatted, at

AGE / VALUE:   Stoping in depends on who's putting it on posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 9/6/2001 at 4:53:53 PM
What will happen to that really junky Huffy that I saw today wearing that $70.00 price tag at that estate sale? She always prices the things so far up into the atmosphere that she never sells anything anyway. The bikes are especially high, just for kicks. Will she drag this to every sale she does? Do they do this on purpose and then offer the home owner some insultingly low offer that the person will accept to be free of the things? Everybody left, nobody bought! If so, then where will the estate sale folk sell it? Somewhere else at lower more normal prices? Will it be donated someplace? some form of writeoff? I haven't yet figured this murky business out and I don't think I want to know how this ticks. Too upsetting. With a tactic like this, this home owner is getting hurt by this estate sale person with a bad agenda. Maybe not. I dunno. The call in your friends night before, pick the best for yourself first, put sold stickers on everything before the door opens on the first day, combined with crazy high prices on the floor scraps turns it into a no-buy- anything, museaum experience for me.

   RE:Shifty estate sales posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 9/8/2001 at 7:37:48 AM
So then, the owner who is hoping to sell most of it and pay the estate sale folks a commision and make some money out of the experience is in for a rude surprise when 90% of it all doesn't sell. Of course the estate sale person has already been paid up front too.
Is this why I see some people throwing everything out in one evening, a crew of 6 guys running all around? Many sales are ok, but you will see it all if you keep at it long enough.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Stoping in depends on who's putting it on posted by Phil on 9/7/2001 at 5:10:13 AM
The estate sale people will sell everything to a 'cleanout' company who will just take everything to the dump.

   MOSTLY CROOKS posted by Gary M on 9/7/2001 at 3:37:16 PM
every one i go to is the same, high prices, on marginal stuff. and the sales company takes it all for pennies or even charges to haul the junk away, which all would have sold had it been priced fair.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Dynohub cones posted by: Edward in Vancouver on 9/6/2001 at 4:05:15 PM
Finally got around to cleaning up a rusty '72 GH-6, thanks for the tip on Oxalic acid to remove rust on the armature and magnet. I seem to have sufficient power, but now I have a propblem with the right cone, it is very badly pitted. Although the cone is machined the same for AW hubs, the threading is not. The front axle is a smaller diameter than rear AW axles, and when I thread an AW cone onto the
the GH-6's axle, it is very loose due to the larger
internal diameter and different threading pitch. HOWEVER,
once I snug up the cone on the axle, and lock it with the
lock nut, the cone is very stable. I assembled the hub back
together and mounted it in an old front fork wedged in my
vice. The wheel spins very sweetly, with no play, other
than the obligatory trace of play that the S.A.manual

My question is, is this safe? Can I mount the wheel on a bike without any trouble? If it is not, what options do I have? Any chance of treating the pitted GH-6 cone so the pitting doesn't affect the bearings?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Dynohub cones posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 9/6/2001 at 4:30:11 PM
I see you have been toying about with these enough to figure this out. I have been along this same alley myself, and was too chicken to try this stunt. If you snug up that locknut.... but then, it isn't threaded in there and you can be serriously hurt if you are wrong and why chance it? Sorry, but I have no answer for you. These hubs were known to be really rough on the cones, that is the drawback.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Dynohub cones posted by Gary m on 9/7/2001 at 3:39:43 PM
that pitting is caused by the surface hardness of the cone failing. The part is junk. all your asking for is trouble

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   British Comonwealth Army posted by: Jorge Üllfig on 9/5/2001 at 8:06:12 PM
For a twist, check-out the pretty neat
40’s British Military Bicycle on E-Bay !

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   British Comonwealth Army posted by Jorge on 9/5/2001 at 8:14:52 PM
Correction: Commonwealth

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   British Comonwealth Army posted by Mark R. on 9/6/2001 at 1:48:20 PM
Dude! You're killing me! What is the item number?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   British Comonwealth Army posted by Art on 9/6/2001 at 7:39:49 PM

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   British Comonwealth Army posted by sam on 9/6/2001 at 11:36:13 PM
Look close at this bike---check the size of the pedals,then look at the tires--I beleave they maybe the F-7 british size(26"x2")--sam

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   British Comonwealth Army posted by Jorge on 9/7/2001 at 8:34:27 AM
I've got a similar HD bike like this,
they are probably 26"x 13/4 Dunlop Carriers

AGE / VALUE:   Humber ladies bike posted by: Heather on 9/5/2001 at 4:28:48 PM
I have recently bought an old Humber ladies bike at a garage sale, and am trying to find out its age, and any idea of value. I've found two different stamps on the frame - under the crank is the number 46037 followed possibly by an E or an 8, with a Z under the number. On the tube just under the seat post is the number 139986 H. The frame is black, with red pinstriping surviving in places. It has bifurcated front forks, rod brakes, and a rear wheel locking mechanism with two keys. It has black plastic/vinyl dress guards marked 'Hemling OCTR 86374', a Brooks B66 ladies model seat, a Brooks carrier (a bit rusty), what looks like the original pump, a leather tool kit marked 'Tesor', an old wicker basket with a handle that lifts up to carry it shopping, and an old sticker on the top tube marked 'Charles Cycles 60 Regent Street, Swindon'. It has a Humber chainring with what looks like people dancing on it with the crank where their heads should be. It has a chainguard with 'Humber' on it, but it isn't one of the chainguards that completely covers the chainring - it only covers the top half. Its tyres say they are 26 and 1 3/8 size. Apparently it was bought some time soon after WW2 by a Dutch woman who then took it back to Holland and then brought it to New Zealand when she emigrated here. It's in pretty good condition, with the only really rusty bits being the ends of the mudguards, and the carrier. It will need some tidying up, but I'm hoping to do it up and ride it. Out of curiosity I'd like to find out some more about its possible age etc. I mistakingly put a message first on the discussion page for Vintage Lightweights, but it was suggested that I post something here.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Humber ladies bike posted by sam on 9/8/2001 at 8:10:37 PM
Heather,I don't know much about Humber.Do know they built bikes then went into building cars,sold the bike part to raleigh.Raleigh made the humber bike(had the double tub fork) for some time.If it has a stermy archer rear hub you can date the bike by the date on the hub---sam

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh tourist light hub posted by: Bill on 9/5/2001 at 3:28:19 PM
Anyone know if the Tourist model with 28" wheels ever came with The front generator hub - could a conversion be done without too much trouble.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh tourist light hub posted by Kevin C. on 9/5/2001 at 7:16:12 PM
I have one with a front Dynohub. I would think one could be added without too much trouble-- it would just have to be laced with spokes of two different lengths, like a drum brake.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh tourist light hub posted by Jacob, Denmark on 9/6/2001 at 5:44:16 AM
I have a 1979 Tourist de Luxe which originally was equipped with front Dynohub, westwood rims and rod-operated rim-brake (brakepads) on the front-wheel, while the rearwheel has a drumbrake.
Most of the the rod-operated Raleigh roadsters I see in Denmark have two drumbrakes, some of them have rim-brakes on the frontwheel, while I do not often see them with rim-brakes on both wheels.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh tourist light hub posted by Jacob, Denmark on 9/6/2001 at 5:46:52 AM
I have a 1979 Tourist de Luxe which originally was equipped with front Dynohub, westwood rims and rod-operated rim-brake (brakepads) on the front-wheel, while the rearwheel has a drumbrake.
Most of the the rod-operated Raleigh roadsters I see in Denmark have two drumbrakes, some of them have rim-brakes on the frontwheel, while I do not often see them with rim-brakes on both wheels.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh tourist light hub posted by Ed on 9/8/2001 at 7:48:22 AM
Expensive,I admit but remember I paid $55.00 for the hub(nos)so lacing the wheel was $70.00. Still not cheap,but the man is a real expert who deals exclusively with classic bikes,did a great job. I am considering asking him to install a higher capacity hub on a 69 Sports which is one of my favorite riders.I'am afraid to ask what he'll charge. It may be cheaper for me to take a course in wheel building.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh tourist light hub posted by Ben on 9/8/2001 at 3:52:27 PM
Might include hand cut spokes, and a lot of time for hand fitting...after all, it's not your regular campy record/mavic rim fit...

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh tourist light hub posted by Ben on 9/8/2001 at 3:54:31 PM
BTW, wheel building is easy to learn. You should definitely try it.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh tourist light hub posted by Ed on 9/7/2001 at 6:18:05 AM
I had a dynohub installed on my 1981 DLI Touristat at a cost of $125.00 encluding cost of the dynohub. My bike has 28" wheels. Since I already owned nos dynohub head & taillight,and have no experience with wheel building I thought the cost was justified. Cheers Ed.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh tourist light hub posted by Francis McCorkle on 9/7/2001 at 5:04:09 PM
$125 to lace a wheel? Wow! I'm in the wrong business!

AGE / VALUE:   E- bay item #1186831804 posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 9/5/2001 at 12:12:08 PM
E-bay item #1186831804 1959 Hercules 50th Aniversary
The start is $120.00 and the buy it now is $500.00
Is the seller hoping to catch someone who is off needed medication, somebody impulsive and with credit cards? It gives a whole new meaning to "Just the right buyer"
I understand some folks don't know the value of something and price an item high, but a buy it now of $500.00?

This is a ladies frame shopping bicycle. It is not anything special is is not 531 Reynolds, no fancy lugs or anything.Just another British 3 speed and a misunderstanding seller.
What is the most this bike might get on a good day?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   E- bay item #1186831804 posted by Ben on 9/5/2001 at 12:51:29 PM
I am the impulsive buyer you are talking about and I would not pay more than $60. for this, or any modern bike (cable brakes, 26" wheels, hockey stick guard) unless it had more stuff, as a Superbe might. There may, of course, be buyers who just have this big thing for Hercules, which I don't.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   E- bay item #1186831804 posted by Mark R. on 9/6/2001 at 1:51:26 PM
I bought one just like this at a GoodWill thrift store for $3!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   E- bay item #1186831804 posted by Ben on 9/7/2001 at 3:36:17 PM
Well, there ya go...

FOR SALE:   1969 Raleigh Sport posted by: thetoyking on 9/5/2001 at 11:31:09 AM
I have a nice Raleigh Sport for sale in the Columbus area. Bronze Green with correct black rubber grips and brown leather brooks saddle. Bike is missing fenders, Handle Bars and needs a new set of tires. Everything else appears correct and in decent shape! Asking $100 OBO. For pick-up/delivery on Columbus Ohio Area. E-mail if interested. Thanks! (3-Speed SA hub!)