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Archived: English Roadsters

AGE / VALUE:   Hercules Bike posted by: Allen on 10/14/2002 at 3:30:30 AM
I bought a Hercules girls bike. The story on the bike is
that when World War 2 was over the soldiers could take one
thing back from Germany. He took the Hercules bike. On the
hub I can read Germany. On the mile meter on the front wheel
it says Berlin. The rear wheel tighter is the same used on
the prewar bikes. I thought Hercules were made in England?
Is there much value to this bike? It has the three speed on
it,but the coaster brake. You back pedal to put on the brake.
I know very little on this bike. It has 28 inch tires.
Thank you

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Hercules Bike posted by Ed on 10/14/2002 at 2:48:55 PM
The German Hercules has no connection to the Brittish other than the same name.To the best of my knowledge German Hercules is still in business. I know of one shop in Yorktown VA that sells German Hercules Bikes today. If Yours dates to WW II it must be a very interesting bike. I don't have any info on how long this Co. has been in business. Good luck with yours. The German Hercules sold by the Yorktown shop are all mountain bikes.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Hercules Bike posted by Ed on 10/14/2002 at 3:12:05 PM
The German Hercules websight address is: http://www.hercules-bikes.de/

AGE / VALUE:   I've got a Sturney Archer three speed hub on a Schinn tubular rim posted by: Trevor on 10/14/2002 at 12:57:02 AM
Its got an orage tubular tire on it and the hub reads"Sturney Archer", England, AW. What have I got here?What sort of bike would this have been on? anyone interested in it? lemme know

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   I've got a Sturney Archer three speed hub on a Schinn tubular rim posted by Ed on 10/14/2002 at 5:16:34 PM
Schwinn used Sturmey Archer hubs on many of their three speed models in the 60s and 70s. A friend still rides his original 1966 Schwinn Suburban equipped with a three speed SA hub.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   I've got a Sturney Archer three speed hub on a Schinn tubular rim posted by Ken on 10/15/2002 at 1:43:55 AM
Two common S-A equipped Schwinn models were Breeze and Racer. Date of manufacture is on the hub. If the bike sat out in the rain until the rest was reduced to its component atoms, you could polish up the hub like new.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   I've got a Sturney Archer three speed hub on a Schinn tubular rim posted by and more on 10/15/2002 at 1:47:14 AM
Traveler. Corvette. Jaguar.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   I've got a Sturney Archer three speed hub on a Schinn tubular rim posted by and yet more on 10/16/2002 at 2:34:21 AM
Sting-Ray, Speedster, Traveler, Collegiate 3

WANTED:   1974 Raleigh Sports Owner's Manual posted by: Claudio on 10/13/2002 at 11:35:54 PM
If anyone has the above for sale, or knows of a source, please respond.


(Toronto, Canada)

AGE / VALUE:   cotter pin removal posted by: paul on 10/13/2002 at 11:22:10 PM
I believe Park Tool no longer carries the cotter removal tool. We, hobby bicycle mechanics, use a stout C-Clamp and an old socket to remove the cotter. Using a hammer tends to create potential "galling" of the bearing surfaces in the bottom bracket. Any flexing of the C-Clamp cause a loud bang when the cotter breaks loose. sincerely, Paul

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   cotter pin removal posted by Michael on 10/14/2002 at 1:50:37 AM
I don't know if their selling it but it's on their website if you search by the part I.D. code, CP-6 from memory but that may be wrong. Harris Cyclery advertises the Park tool for sale on their site. The C-Clamp and socket sounds like a good idea though, the Park tool costs about $60.00 US.

Since we're discussing such things, what's a good way to remove a headset?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   cotter pin removal posted by David on 10/14/2002 at 1:12:13 PM
Someone at Park Tool confirmed to me that they no longer make the cotter presses. (They're "cotters," BTW, not "cotter pins," which are those hairpin shaped things that go thru a bolt with a castle nut.) The C-clamp and socket setup seems like the best of the alternatives. Any method that involves getting the crank arm on a vise or pipe or something will be a royal pain since the bike is still attached to the crank! And press the cotter back in; don't rely on the puny nut to tighten it adequately.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   cotter pin removal posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 10/14/2002 at 7:53:19 PM
I went thru a lot of hassle to finally own the Var tool and I picked up three Park cotter pin presses along the way. I had a feeling that Park would stop making that press.
Park is a good company, wide variety of tools for the current scene.

Yet myself,personally I long for the catalogs and tool companies of old.
Not offered? then make it yourself is the way to go and folks have, with the C clamp and socket.

Did they say why they stoped offering it? An answer besides "falling demand"?
Look for the old tools, rescue these from the shops before somebody passes on and the daughter throws it all out. I got the ice skate sharpener this way. "We don't do that anymore" she said with a wrinkled nose.
It's every bit as fun to collect the old tools as it is to find the old bikes.
The biukes may come and go but the tools are keepers.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   cotter pin removal posted by Ed on 10/15/2002 at 12:57:25 PM
The most simple solution I have heard for cotter pin removal is to take off the nuts and take a ride around the block. I'am told that this will loosen the pins to the point that they can easily be taped out with a hammer. I haven't tried this yet plan but to in the near future on a pending bottom bracket project. Good luck.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   cotter pin removal posted by Dale on 10/15/2002 at 11:17:43 PM
Hammering works if you take the proper precaution. A block of wood 11" long, under the crank arm to back it up, will prevent bearing damage. I made a special block by cutting a 4x4 to the 11" length and drilled a hole in the top, near the middle of one side of the block.

That said, I like the loosen-nuts-and-ride-around idea. Does it always work?

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   cotter pin removal posted by Mark R. on 10/15/2002 at 11:18:06 PM
I have tried that, but if the pins are properly set they won't loosen for a long time, and you can ruin them as well. Next time I put new pins in I'm gonna try using anti-seize compound, and even though I KNOW this is not recommended, I don't ride my Raleigh hard, or on real long distance rides, so I wonder if maybe this will be the answer. You can set them hard, but they should fly right out with th eanti-seize on them. Anyone ever try it? Personally I'm getting tired of ruining all my original pins!

AGE / VALUE:   Still looking for 26" black mudguards; will pay cash posted by: David Poston on 10/13/2002 at 8:54:01 PM
I'm (still) looking for new or good used condition black 26" English 3-speed mudguards, as found on a Raleigh Sports.

Send me an e-mail.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Still looking for 26 posted by Mark R. on 10/15/2002 at 11:20:38 PM
I have a front mudguard that was a replacement for my black Raleigh. It's not original, but looks just like them. It has the rod style stays. Interested?
You can have it if you want it.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Still looking for 26 posted by David Poston on 10/16/2002 at 3:44:52 AM

Yes, I tried to catch you the last time around when I posted this, but I guessed you missed my reply. Is the mudguard made by Raleigh Industries (i.e. for Raleigh, Rudge, Humber, Phillips, Dunelt, etc.) or an Asian copy? If an Asian copy, is it peaked with the chrome tip? I don't know anything about rod stays, only the brazed-on and wire stays.

Send me an e-mail.


   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Still looking for 26 posted by Mucus on 10/16/2002 at 12:46:10 PM
Yes, it's an Asian copy, but it is pretty nice. It's used justb enough to give it a little character :-) The rod braces work fine, especially on Robinhoods and such that came that way originally.
e-mail me at: mark_r91@yahoo.com and I'll make arraingements to send it to you.

WANTED:   Pedals wanted; will trade or pay cash posted by: David Poston on 10/12/2002 at 9:10:47 PM
I got two pairs of NOS "Union" pedals from cyclesofyesteryear, but they didn't turn out as I expected. They are rubber without reflectors, but the pattern on the rubber has diamond-like projections throughout. They look maybe 70's.

Does anyone have any old Raleigh or similar make pedals without the reflectors that they might be interested in selling or trading? I need two pairs.


AGE / VALUE:   SA gear cable for Raleigh Tourist posted by: David Poston on 10/12/2002 at 9:10:47 PM
Will the standard Sports SA gear cable work on my Raleigh Tourist DL-1? I think the Sports cables are 55" long, but the old one on my Tourist is 58-59" long. Anyone know? Where can I get some?


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   SA gear cable for Raleigh Tourist posted by Edward in Vancouver on 10/13/2002 at 3:31:34 PM
IF there's not more than an inch or two of difference between the cables, you can slide the fulcrum clamp up or down an inch or two to compensate. Remember to really tighten the clamp down, or you'll get "ghost shifting".Or, you could save yourself the frustration of getting the "right"size of gear cables, and make yourself a "custom" one. Use one of those universal gear cables, the ones with the clamp-on adjusting barrel. Switch the gear cable housing if you want to. Then with cable in hand, trot down to a hobby store, the kind that sells model railroad stuff. You'll find a selection of thin brass tubes, find one that just slides over the cable, 16th/inch,I believe. Slice a 1/2"piece off, remove the adjusting barel from the yech-y clamp, and slide the barrrel on the cable, then the piece of brass. Crimp the brass in several places, and you have your own custom cable. I've done this for my Superbe and Sports, both with FG hubs-which need alot more shifting strength than AW's, and the cables hold up just fine.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   SA gear cable for Raleigh Tourist/cotter pin removal posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 10/13/2002 at 6:36:36 PM
Years ago, when I went crazy looking for extra long cable, Why did it not occur to me to go to the hobby shop and get this tubing and make the cable myself?
Another thing, -(back then) Why did not somebody ever say "You know, Chris you can get brass tubing and make this!"
Edward gave us the necessary magic bit of information:
16th/inch brass tubing!
If your hobby shop is telling you they don't have it, then you need to find another hobby shop.

I have a pal who has a block of thick wood cut to just the right height and he has a hole drilled in it for the opposite end of the cotter pin and he rests the crank on this block of wood and takes a hammer and punch and he's wearing goggles and weilding a great hammer, he drives out these cotter pins. He remarked "When I don't have something I needed, I went ahead and made it"
Picture the bike standing up with you holding it from falling over with this stout piece of wood block next to the crank with the cotter pin end in the wood.
I prefer to lay the bike across a vise and have somebody hold the bike and I turn the vise and drive the pin out. He thought that was making it more dificult but I like using a vise.
Also Park recently makes (or made) a cotter pin removal tool and if you can find the VAR tool for this you are lucky.
Surrounded by shiny bikes and empty Kiwi tins today!

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Fitting chaincase to Raleigh Tourist posted by: David Poston on 10/12/2002 at 5:29:47 PM
I just received a big lot of parts from Harvey Russell of cyclesofyesteryear.com. Unfortunately, I cannot use a good portion of them, many of which are new but foreign-made (Indian?) parts. I have 28" and 26" heavy duty mudguards in black with red and gold pinstriping, a 28" rear rack (very heavy duty), an old-style sprung kickstand, etc. I also have a bunch of used Sturmey Archer triggers (old style without plastic face) that are working but looking aged and some other stuff which I'll have to sort through. I'll probably either sell these to whomever is interested or try to ship them back to England, although that might be costly.

Now to my question. I'm thinking I will keep the 28" full chaincase if I can get it to fit. Has anyone had experience fitting these? I was able to unscrew the section on the small end (hub end), but the big end (which goes over the chainwheel) is a mystery to me. I'm not sure if these are the same as the Raleigh-made chaincases or not.



   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Fitting chaincase to Raleigh Tourist posted by Stephen on 10/15/2002 at 4:46:40 AM

I don't have experience with the foreign chain cases, but the chaincases on my Rudges were pretty straightforward.

As you noticed, the lower rear corner is held on by screws; these are easily removed when you want to remove the rear wheel. The front of the chaincase should have a small plate near the crank. You can remove the small plate, and then remove the circular piece over the chainwheel. Once the round plate is removed, you can remove the cotter and the chainwheel - there is a bold attaching the chaincase to the chainstay that is easily removed.

My DL1 doesn't have the full chaincase, but does have a hole in the chaincase to attach one. It's a newer bicycle (1971?), and it doesn't look like the hole was ever tapped.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Fitting chaincase to Raleigh Tourist posted by David Poston on 10/15/2002 at 5:16:28 AM

For routine maintenance (e.g. removing the back wheel to fix a flat), do you only need to remove the end by the hub? How do you get the chain off? Do you need a removable link to break the chain?


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Fitting chaincase to Raleigh Tourist posted by dash on 10/15/2002 at 3:03:24 PM
Sorry David, I have no answers, but pretty much the same questions. I searched for a full chaincase for my 1969 DL1 for a loooong time and my local bike shop at the time (Via in Philadelphia) came upon some NOS Chinese "Flying Pigeon" chaincases and they were all promptly sold and installed on some of the neighborhood DL1's. Mine fits just like the stock Raleigh ones I've seen. This was about 8 years ago and I haven't touched the Kenda tires and tubes since then, but I know that time is coming somewhere down the road, and I assumed my recourse would be to cart my DL1 back to Philly for maintenance. At Via, they installed some sort of puncture protection on the inner sidewalls because of the difficult chaincase removal, but I have been puncture free! I don't ride my DL1 every day, but it does get a regular leg stretching on the Susquehanna River trails. The chaincase is such a boon for gliding through brush and mud.

So, I too would be interested in any removal tips.

BTW, I love carrying my DL1 around on my car's bike rack. It creates quite a stir, even here in Amish country, and I think it brightens everyone's day

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Fitting chaincase to Raleigh Tourist posted by P.C. Kohler on 10/15/2002 at 4:07:18 PM
David, yes you have to break the chain to get the rear wheel off a DL-1. Not as big a deal as one would think with a masterlink. And remember if you are simply patching a tyre puncture, the wheel doesn't have to come off anyway.

Surprised you can't use many of the parts you got from Cycles of Yesteryear; those that I received look good and the chaincase is excellent. Paintwork is not up to Raleigh Industries of course but we all knew that. Oh... I'd be happy to take one or two of those metal faced SA triggers off your hands...

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Fitting chaincase to Raleigh Tourist posted by David Poston on 10/15/2002 at 5:47:51 PM

You're back. Did you say you went to back to the homeland (England, that is)? When I finally get my DL-1's over to the local shop, I'll try to have them install a master link. But can you explain how you would you repair a puncture without removing the wheel?

The parts from Harvey were fine, I suppose. It's just that many were not what I was expecting. "Good used" condition turned out to be well used. An old Rudge headlamp, hand painted red and well rusted, which is ready for the trash bin or to hang on display. I suppose I am jaded by the offerings of NOS parts on e-bay. "New pattern" parts not up to par with English-made. I anticipated the "new pattern" mudguards to look somewhat like the Raleigh mudguards, but they were quite different, particularly the 26" ones, which were flat and not peaked with the chrome tip as I needed. The rear rack I don't think will fit my Dl-1, at least I can't figure out how. The new pattern kickstand doesn't look as good as a Pletscher. The black pumps were OK, just plain. The "ding-dong" bell turned out to be a horribly cheap thing. My fiance turned her nose up at the sight and sound of it and demanded a Lucas Challis like mine. After viewing these foreign parts, I am really beginning to appreciate the quality of English-made parts, even those in 70's.

On the upside of things, the chaincase is definitely a keeper. From all appearances, it will make a good fit and looks original. I just need to find a decent transfer. I also had Harvey rebuild a rear AG dynothree hub into a new rim; excellent work by him and no complaints there. In summary, perhaps there was just a slight misunderstanding on my part as to what the parts would look like when I ordered them. Harvey's service and explanations could not have been better, though. He is a splendid person to work with.

I will certainly let you know if I don't need the metal SA triggers. They seem to work but are well aged with a faded face.


   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Fitting chaincase to Raleigh Tourist posted by P.C. Kohler on 10/15/2002 at 7:23:08 PM
Yes, back from a nice holiday and part of it in England. Even better, a complete holiday from cycles too. No forays into dusty cycle shops. They don't exist in London at least. No greasy bits in my luggage. Try explaining the innards of a dynothree hub to some airport security bloke.

Repairing a puncture rarely requires anything more than easing the tube out from the tyre, pumping it up and finding the source of that wretched 'hiss'. The tube and tyre do not need to be totally removed from the wheel. Then a tyre patching kit is put to work. The old Dunlop tin ones even had a piece of chalk to mark the puncture. Once patched, just ease the tube back into the tyre and it's done.

My vintage parts from Cycles of Yesteryear were about what I expected. The dynothree hub and headlamp/tail lamp/wiring harness are indeed 'vintage' (wonderfully the same year as the Raleigh I am putting them on) but perfectly restorable. And a heck of lot cheaper than eBay. NOS is great but can look too 'new' when tacked on to vintage machines with an overdose of patina. Me, I just want to get my 1948 Raleigh back on the road. She'll never look like she was new in '48; I'd be content with how she would have looked in '65. Now if shoe polish would just work on rusty chrome rims.....

P.C. Kohler

AGE / VALUE:   Serial numbers posted by: Christopher on 10/12/2002 at 4:17:54 PM
I have two serial numbers here that don't jive with the chart. One is an AK prefix (Humber cycle) and the other is a DA prefix (Raleigh)
Hopefully things will improve on this later

AGE / VALUE:   raleigh supurbe posted by: silversoul43@hotmail.com on 10/12/2002 at 6:29:49 AM
I've got this old raleigh supurbe here, wondering what year it is. the serial number is NN5011331. I checked on the "retro raleigh's" website at thier serial number charts, and my numbers don't seem to fit in!! (I had the same confusion with my Rampar! whats up with that??). anyway, it says "75 12" on the sturmy-archer hub, does this mean it's a '75? It looks a little older than that to me. I want to restore this thing, it's a nice bike. totally complete, and has dyno-hub/lights, 3-speed, and locking fork!!! cool. dark green metallic paint is even in decent shape. thanx

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   raleigh supurbe posted by Mucus on 10/12/2002 at 4:34:39 PM
Yes, that means the hub was manufactured in Dec. 1975. So, the bike is probably from early 1976. Someone could have swapped wheels in the past though. Regardless it's a great bike!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   raleigh supurbe posted by Oscar on 10/12/2002 at 6:46:34 PM
We're Rampars Asian-made Raleighs? Maybe that's why the serial numbers don't jibe.

AGE / VALUE:   Not exactly mountain bike tires...... posted by: sam on 10/12/2002 at 1:54:17 AM
But have you ever seen these,Chris? http://image1ex.villagephotos.com/pubimage.asp?id_=826204

AGE / VALUE:   Rent "Enigma"; you won't be sorry posted by: David Poston on 10/11/2002 at 9:09:56 PM
For all you Anglophiles out there, you have just got to rent the movie "Enigma." It recently was released on DVD and VHS. I saw it when it first came out, I rented it on DVD, and I may end up buying it. It is an intriguing WWII period movie about an attempt by British intelligence to break the Nazi code. A great cast: it stars Dougray Scott, Kate Winslet, Jeremy Northam, and Saffron Burrows. Dougray Scott plays a burn-out codebreaker who is on the verge of mental breakdown, and Jeremy Northam is a suave detective who just gets under your skin, he does it so well. It will appeal to mystery fans, but I found the individual character developments and setting more interesting. There are plenty of shots of period cycles. There is one scene where Dougray Scott rides a Phillips? along a dirt country lane in the evening dusk. With DVD in hand, you can hit the pause button and rewind. I did (the second time around). A splendid little movie which showcases the superb on-screen abilities of the British acting world and reminds why all my favorite actors are from Great Britain or Australia.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Rent posted by sam on 10/12/2002 at 2:30:51 AM
Think I'll look at the movie rental store this weekend.And as a little tip one of our own regulars of this group supplied the bikes for a movie named"Her Majesty".Should be a good family movie.Only clue you get is the movie was filmed in New Zeland(which leaves me and David Poston out)---sam

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Rent posted by Pete on 10/15/2002 at 4:09:17 PM
A freind of mine(in the uk supplied all the cycles for this (and other) films,He has an increadable collection (100s) of all sorts of cycles, but I think he likes Roadsters best.
Best of all he had the job of setting up Kate Winslets bike.
He told me he is now doing a bike for Gwyneth Paltrows new film in Cambridge, What a job !!!

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Sun Rims posted by: Brian on 10/11/2002 at 8:26:08 PM
I'd certainly be interested in Sun aluminium rims drilled in 32/40 patterns. Then I could use the S/A hubs I have to build better wet-weather braking wheels.

MISC:   Sometimes you just get lucky posted by: Ray on 10/11/2002 at 8:16:18 PM
Well I went to Hershey yesterday and made my rounds and got out before the rain set in. I picked up a few things here and there. Just before I was done for the day I spotted another bike vendor in the corner of my eye. I went over and saw a few hi wheel bikes and struck up a conversation about my 1878 Rudge hi wheel that I ride around town. I explained how it is the largest recorded Rudge wheel (56 inch) in the US when I spotted it. There among the bikes was a WWII BSA paratrooper bike in very decent condition, complete except for one brake cable. I almost did not ask the price as these have been to expensive for me in the past but after his quote and some bargaining I got it for a fair price and it will soon take its place among my collectibles. It will need new BSA saddle leather but I will sub a Brooks till then. What a great unusual frame that folds in two, olive drab in color and that neat BSA chain ring. There were some good deals at Hershey because I think the sellers were afraid that they would get rained out. Guess what, they just may. Show goes through Sat so if you are in the area and don't mind getting wet you too may find a gem.

MISC:   Identifying Woods valves posted by: Edward in Vancouver on 10/11/2002 at 3:53:31 AM
My "edible bribes" to the used bike shop finally paid off, managed to pick up a set of wheels, a '70 dynothree (40 spk) and matching front rim (32spk) on "Sturmey-Archer" Dunlop style rims. Chrome's in good shape, but the wheels need work on the trueing stand. (Yech, galvanized spokes!) Anyway, I think the front wheel has a "Woods valve" innertube, cause it's the wierdest thing I've seen, the whole assembly screws out. Someone please educate me, how do you inflate the thing? Is there a special pump adapter for this?

   RE:MISC:   Identifying Woods valves posted by sam on 10/11/2002 at 10:42:51 AM
For woods valves there is an adapter that will let you use a reg pump.or you can buy a pump to fit the smaller size.Unscrew the core and there should be a small rubber tube.That's the part that can be replaced when needed.very simple design but a bit odd now days.

   RE:MISC:   Identifying Woods valves posted by William on 10/11/2002 at 1:29:23 PM
Ah,Woods valves.Well,they are quite common here in Malaysia,among 26" and 28" roadsters that is.But nowadays,the Schrader valves are overtaking them as the preferred valve for bike tubes.
Simple design(actually they are too common here),you may call them quaint too and easy to use.But they don't keep the air for too long;these Woods valve tubes need to be inflated more often compared to the Schrader valve design.
And the inner rubber tubing has to be replaced every now and then;approx.2 weeks here in the hot weather of Malaysia.If not,the tubing will harden and your tube will lose air constantly.

Let me tell you guys something.Well,actually it was my Dad who told me;Back in the old days when he was a kid in the 50's,workers in the rubber tree plantations used roadsters to move around in the estates and to ferry the latex out.So,one day,you find yourself with a flat due to a perished rubber tubing,what do you do??Well,these guys would search the moist grounds of the estate,looking for what....
LEECHES,that's what.Not those huge ones,just tiny ones.They would pick one up and shove it into the valve inner core,thus substituting as a temporary 'rubber tubing'!!!They pump up the tyre with their hand-pumps and ride all the way back home,whistling along the way.Believe it or not.

Still,the Woods valves may be fighting a losing battle nowadays as more and more tubes are using the more efficient Schrader valves.My Gazelle has been using Woods valve tubes all along.Somehow I personally prefer the 'older' look of the Woods valves on my bike and they will always have a place in my heart.But for how many more years to come will they be around?
(Oh yeah,and don't ask me what happened to the leeches).

   RE:RE:MISC:   Identifying Woods valves posted by Edward in Vancouver on 10/11/2002 at 4:06:34 PM
Thanks for the info, William. As leeches are uncommon here, I think I'll just replace the whole innertube. Fitting end for leeches, though... But it's fun discovering stuff like this. Hey, did I ever tell about the time when I made a tire boot out of a 5$ bill and tree sap?....

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Identifying Woods valves posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 10/11/2002 at 8:54:17 PM
Sheldon Brown covers woods valves at his web site. Sheldonbrown.com

Personsally, I avoid woods valves like the plague. Great for exact period corectness in a restoration. The Presta valve is a better valve and now thanks to the arrival of that god awful monstrasity, the evil mountain bike, tubes in 700-38 and even 700-up to 45 C tubes are made new and sold today in common bike shops so I can easily buy new tubes with these better Presta valves.
This is only possible by sheer coincidence, no modern mountain bike takes a 700 X 38 C tire that can be also fitted and used on My Raleigh Tourist 28 X 1 1/2 tire.
It's a conspiracy, they know I'm trying to do this and they won't cooperate! (grin)

This is not old stock but new tubes. Before the net, there was a stretch of time where tubes for these Raleigh Toursits and other 28 X 1 1/2 bikes were scarce and hard to find. People were using 27 X 1 1/4 tubes and stretching them and it did not really work to do this. It was an awful time! I went from shop to shop to shop looking for tubes and extra long gear cable.When I lucked out, I was thankful and when I found the whole bike used or new someplace my eyes rolled back into my head.
Bottom line, if you can find the Presta valve tubes go with these as they are best for keeping the air in. Schrader valves(car type) are very good too. Woods valves are bottom of the ladder. replacement pieces of rubber, leeches whatever will keep the air in. I know quite well what Sam has been going through.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Identifying Woods valves posted by Deepak Chopin on 10/12/2002 at 1:26:32 AM
We got some earthworms over by me. Do you think those would work?

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Identifying Woods valves posted by William on 10/12/2002 at 1:25:31 PM
Beats the heck out of me.I've never heard of guys using earthworms as substitute yet.Probably,leeches were used because they're more elastic and tougher compared to the more 'squishy' earthworms.Maybe,I don't know!!! :D :D :D