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If you are trying to determine the genealogy of your bicycle by it's features, go to our Vintage Bicycle Price Guide
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, brake types, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your old bicycle.
If you are trying to determine the make and model of your bicycle, go to our Vintage Bicycle Picture Database
which details bicycle features, wheel sizes, etc., as well as showing a price estimate for your vintage bicycle.
Archived: English Roadsters
MISC: Ealing Films cont'd
posted by: P.C. Kohler
on 12/22/2002 at 1:24:18 AM
| Apologies for revisiting this subject, but the highlight, cycle interest-wise, of the continuing Ealing Studios retrospective on Turner Movie Classics, has to be "Decision Against Time" (1957), a test pilot drama (and a corker of one too) starring Jack Hawkins. A continuing theme is a group of seven or so young cyclists (even credited!) on a club run who happen on the airstrip to witness the unfolding drama aloft. All are riding the absolute pick of Raleigh's 1957 line: lads on dropped handlebar Lentons and ladies on Trent Tourists with those cool "all rounder" handlebars. Some great close-ups. Ah, all those celluloid mudguards and wonderful '50s riding "costumes" of the ladies...
P.C. Kohler |
AGE / VALUE: GH6 cones
posted by: Edward inVancouver
on 12/21/2002 at 4:32:00 AM
| A friend gave me a GH6 to repair for him, what a mess! The axle was stripped and the ends mushroomed, but that didn't bother me, because I knew I could get Tiawanese BMX hollow axles with the exact same diameter and threading. No, the problem was cones. Is it just my luck, or are the cones on GH6's more prone to pitting and cracking than other S.A. cones? They should be the same material and undergo the same processes as cones from other hubs, right? Anyway, I think I've found a solution to finding replacement cones:
In my drawer of junk I've got an AW axle with the sun pinion removed, just file the pin, and tap the pinion out. The axle fits into the GH6 OK. The right cone from the AW is identical in every way to the GH6 except for diameter and threading. I was also fortunate enough to have a left cone (adjusting cone, with a shoulder) in decent shape from an AG hub, which is also identical to the GH6 except for diameter and threading as well. I fitted the GH6 with an AW axle and cones, and had one problem, the blank space between the threading on the axle was too long by a 1/4". So I stuck the axle in a vice, spun an old cone on, and used the cone as a die, cutting about 1/8" new thread on either side of the blank space. The cone is pretty tough, but the axle is tougher, so I used a fresh (albeit pitted) cone to cut the other side. The hub spins pretty smoothly and the AW's axle flats slip into the front forks well enough. I must have used a half pack of Dremel cutting disks to trim off the ends of the axle though.
Isn't it fun having a bunch of junk at your disposal to do "experimenting" on?
Edward "just carved my last Turkey for 2002" in Vancouver |
RE:AGE / VALUE: GH6 cones
posted by Chris on 12/21/2002 at 6:06:50 PM
| The cones go bad on the dynohubs pretty fast. That's the drawback.
|
RE:AGE / VALUE: GH6 cones
posted by Ben on 12/22/2002 at 4:39:57 AM
| Guess I'd better lubricate often and keep that old original Phillips front hub, eh.... |
RE:AGE / VALUE: GH6 cones
posted by Pete on 12/22/2002 at 10:08:51 PM
| Hello Guys If you want new cones for GH6 I've got them.+ New
32h shells and axles etc,etc |
RE:AGE / VALUE: GH6 cones
posted by Pete on 12/22/2002 at 10:10:00 PM
| Hello Guys If you want new cones for GH6 I've got them.+ New
32h shells and axles etc,etc I have also got new FG l/h ball
cups |
AGE / VALUE: GH6 cones
posted by: Edward inVancouver
on 12/21/2002 at 4:32:00 AM
| A friend gave me a GH6 to repair for him, what a mess! The axle was stripped and the ends mushroomed, but that didn't bother me, because I knew I could get Tiawanese BMX hollow axles with the exact same diameter and threading. No, the problem was cones. Is it just my luck, or are the cones on GH6's more prone to pitting and cracking than other S.A. cones? They should be the same material and undergo the same processes as cones from other hubs, right? Anyway, I think I've found a solution to finding replacement cones:
In my drawer of junk I've got an AW axle with the sun pinion removed, just file the pin, and tap the pinion out. The axle fits into the GH6 OK. The right cone from the AW is identical in every way to the GH6 except for diameter and threading. I was also fortunate enough to have a left cone (adjusting cone, with a shoulder) in decent shape from an AG hub, which is also identical to the GH6 except for diameter and threading as well. I fitted the GH6 with an AW axle and cones, and had one problem, the blank space between the threading on the axle was too long by a 1/4". So I stuck the axle in a vice, spun an old cone on, and used the cone as a die, cutting about 1/8" new thread on either side of the blank space. The cone is pretty tough, but the axle is tougher, so I used a fresh (albeit pitted) cone to cut the other side. The hub spins pretty smoothly and the AW's axle flats slip into the front forks well enough. I must have used a half pack of Dremel cutting disks to trim off the ends of the axle though.
Isn't it fun having a bunch of junk at your disposal to do "experimenting" on?
Edward "just carved my last Turkey for 2002" in Vancouver |
AGE / VALUE: LATE 40's SCHWINN CONTINENTAL
posted by: Kevin K
on 12/21/2002 at 1:40:41 AM
| Hi all. Probally in the wrong section but............... So anyway I was given a Schwinn Continental frame. It's been I.D'd to be a 1948. It is a bare frame. However,and it's why I posted here, it was most likely a 3 speed bike. Hence it would have used English built parts as I've seen on some very early Schwinn 3 speeds. So does anyone here know anything of these early Continentals? They do not look at all like the 60's and 70's bikes. They are very European in appearance. Decals are so cool! Any help would be great! Thanks, Kevin ( I've already posted on the lightweight section. Need more info.) |
RE:AGE / VALUE: LATE 40's SCHWINN CONTINENTAL
posted by sam on 12/21/2002 at 3:25:13 PM
| Kevin,when you say "bare frame"Did you get the crank and fork or not?Also decribe the BB,is it standard pressed cups or threaded?If you have the fork,is it drilled for a brake? Is the frame lugged or Schwinn "fillet brassed?These bikes were almost Paramounts,and as such were made for adult riders.One more thing to look for --do you see any scrach marks on the top tube were a top tube shifter would have mounted?---sam |
RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: LATE 40's SCHWINN CONTINENTAL
posted by Kevin K on 12/22/2002 at 3:04:16 PM
| Hi Sam. Yea,the bike did come with a fork and a nice 3 piece cottered crankset. Very nice. The bike is also fillet brazed. It's got a decal on the bottom of the seat tube that I.D.'s it as seemless tubing with an AS decal in the center. The bike most likely was a 3 speed. I'll bet she was a beaut when new! The Continental decals are almost totally gone. The bike is beyond any attempt to leave it original. However I did find some neat 50's decals and I just might have a chance at getting the correct 40's Continental decals made. I liked your comment about being almost Paramount. I really like Schwinn bikes and now with the Schwinn name nothing more than a decal package I want to keep and restore the ones that really should not hit the metal piles as this one. So Sam please help me if you can. Email me at kbcurvin@aol.com if you wish. Thanks alot. Kevin K |
ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Keeper for Dynohub repair
posted by: J. M. Vernooy
on 12/20/2002 at 11:59:58 PM
| Does anyone know if the keeper, which needs to be used when the Dynohub armature has to be separated from the magnet, is available for purchase. If not, does anyone have the specifics of what it is? I just bought a ladies Raleigh Supreme that had been sitting on a pile of scrap steel ready for the crusher until someone recognized it. This Dynohub puts out about half the amperage that it should. Hoping just a broken wire, not demagnitized from the scrap magnet. |
RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Keeper for Dynohub repair
posted by J. M. Vernooy on 12/21/2002 at 12:56:37 AM
| Just answered half of my problem. Still interested in knowing more about the Dynohub keeper, but was assuming that the 2.4w standard was the only standard. I should know better by now as bicycles have a variety of standards for most everything related to them. Used the right (1.5w) bulb. It works fine. |
RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Keeper for Dynohub repair
posted by Edward in Vancouver on 12/21/2002 at 4:31:10 AM
| If I can recall correctly, seems Sheldon Brown has a keeper, but never uses it, instead he uses two cone wrenches, or an armature from a "dead" dyno. Basically a chunk of circular steel,that fits into the magnet, like from a gas line would work. I've succesfully used Mr. Brown's method, although I didn't keep the magnet separated for more than a minute. There is someone on this site who has, or has access to a Dyno re-magnetizing machine, but I can't recall the name. |
RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Keeper for Dynohub repair
posted by David on 12/21/2002 at 12:51:38 PM
| Indeed, Sheldon has a keeper that he'll rent you (with a $50 deposit when I was the customer). It's just a heavy iron ring the same size as the Dyno armature so it fits snugly inside the magnet. An armature, dead or alive, will do the same job. From what I've read, I think that separating the magnet and the armature AT ALL damages the magnet. Keeping them separated for more or less than a minute won't make much difference - the damage is already done.
If you are getting any output, the wiring in the armature is ok - it's a single coil. If you have connect an ammeter in series with a lamp you should be able to measure almost .4 A from a good dyno turning a 26" wheel at a 12 MPH rate.
I haven't availed myself of his service but, Eric Hjertberg is the one with the magnetizer. You'll need to ship the magnet with an armature or a keeper, of course.
Eric Hjertberg
763 College Avenue
Menlo Park, CA 94025
ehjertberg@yahoo.com |
RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Keeper for Dynohub repair
posted by J. M. Vernooy on 12/21/2002 at 1:57:38 PM
| Thanks for the information on the Dynohub. I'm going to have to actually measure the output of this one and stop guessing by substituting bulbs. Now to find an AC ammeter. Found one in a 1974 Lafayette Radio Electronics catalog but not in a 2002 Radio Shack catalog. If these Dynohubs weren't so well made I might have come upon this problem in time to order from the Lafayette catalog. |
AGE / VALUE:
posted by: Mark R./Mucus
on 12/20/2002 at 7:19:22 PM
| Well, I got my full chaincase from Yellow Jersey today, and it seems like it'll be a perfectly acceptable replacement. The only real problem I see is that the screw supplied does not fit the threads on my DL-1. This is a small problem. It is NOT an exact copy of the DL-1 chaincase, but is more than close enough. It would be cool if some bicycle related shop(hint, hint) maybe one with a web site, and a bunch of crazy roadster fans(Hint ditto!)would import some of this stuff :-) |
RE:AGE / VALUE:
posted by Me again on 12/20/2002 at 7:37:37 PM
RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:
posted by Me again, again on 12/20/2002 at 7:41:18 PM
| Yo Vinny, get it??? ( I'm trying to be subtle, can you tell?) |
RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: I wish I was at the docks to see nothing gets damaged.
posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 12/20/2002 at 9:02:16 PM
| Now, be respectful of Vin, he's already done so much.
There is the problem of getting a container load of goods that is not damaged and plagued with problems. What you offer to your customer has to be top notch.
This project requires a financial involvement that is not small or insignificant. Rules, regulations, trade restrictions, will the customer pay what price is set? For all the romance and wonderful aspects of this, you will get burned if it goes haywire and it easily can. You might be able to re-animate this, but will be a sucessful venture?
Whatever Vin decides to jump in on,I hope he does so carefully.
Other folks have really given this issue serious thought in years past. Calls made, faxes sent, booklets designed, arrangements attempted, Money lined up to finance it. This is no small venture and if it goes wrong it can mean the beginning of the end of the road for whomever dabbles with these. It fell through or rather it was decided best to shelve the idea. That was then, and with another name brand, and another party.
But yet today, 5 years later I see the Yellow Jersey offer a similar thing of a diffrent company. So I see these reintroduced at last!
Have any of us heard from them how it's going?
|
RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:
posted by P.C. Kohler on 12/20/2002 at 9:16:16 PM
| No nudging needed; I'm working on it.... seriously.
P.C. Kohler |
RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:
posted by P.C. Kohler on 12/20/2002 at 9:32:25 PM
| .... or was until I read Chris' comments!!!!
P.C. Kohler |
RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:
posted by Mucus/Mark R. on 12/21/2002 at 7:16:02 PM
| Well, the chain case is on, and I only had to do a little tin smithery to it. It looks very good on the bike, but I can't say it it is 100 % original looking. If you ever do this with an Indian case, you can carefully peel off what you can of the brand sticker, and then use WD-40 on a rag, and rub the remains off. It cane off very nicely. I'm not sure if this was worth the money or not, but it looks pretty good. |
ENGLISH ROADSTERS: DBU rewire
posted by: Brian
on 12/19/2002 at 6:08:21 PM
| Anyone got a simple & neat method to splice & reconnect the wires on a DBU/GH6 head/taillight setup which is being changed over from a rear GH6 to one powered by a front GH6.
The point at which the wires on the harness were originally spliced/taped & covered, is confusing to say the least! I've got the "usual suspects" Hadland/Sheldon stuff off the web, but I'm afraid I need a little more elaboration on this. Edward "the caterer", you've done this stuff before - no? |
RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: DBU rewire
posted by P.C. Kohler on 12/19/2002 at 10:31:46 PM
| Roll Britannia has the dynohub wiring diagrams under "Files" and Raleigh Cycle Maintenance Handbook.
My dynohub on my '49 Rudge went dark in mid-ride yesterday evening... I assume that if it was one bulb, the other would still burn, so what's up with this??
On the subject, are we all agreed that one cannot get replacement vacuum headlamp bulbs (6 v. .3 amp) for dynohubs, only the halogen replacements sold by Reflectalite, UK? If so, maybe another thing for the Indians to make for us.
P.C. Kohler, in the dark on so many things |
RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: DBU rewire
posted by Edward in Vancouver on 12/19/2002 at 11:37:40 PM
| When I first set up my DFU, I gave up on the orginal wiring harness and went down to an electronics store and got some black wire and those heat-shrink tubes. Although at this time P.C's site wasn't up yet, I got the same wiring configurations by dumb luck and trial and error. I just sliced off 1/4 pieces of the heat-shrink tubing and ran them on the harness every foot or so, tube-wrapped the connections, and then shrank the tubes with a hairdryer. It looks very clean. If you need any of those little copper plugs, or the "ground" seatpost terminal, give me a shout. I've also got the original wiring harness as well, although it's grey.
Now after this is all said and done, I've had trouble with the FSU, the Filter switch unit. This is a little round box, same diameter as the battery tube, and about an inch thick that fits into the battery tube. This is the little device that says when to use dyno-power and when to use battery power. Anyway, this wasn't working, and when I ran the bike at speeds over 20 mph, I was getting very little light, just a feeble glow. I'm not an electronics whizz, but I managed to get a schematic of this device on Tony Hadland's site, brought it into to Radioshack, and got the proper replacement little electronic pieces. I soldered the old ones out, and soldered the new ones in, and it works great again. Of course no one can comment on my soldering job because the FSU is stuffed back into the batterytube, where no one can see it. I told ya I wasn't an electronics whizz!
Regards, Edward, who has only 3 more turkey buffets and 2 more cocktail receptions to do before I can take a break... |
RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: DBU rewire
posted by Brian on 12/20/2002 at 3:27:25 PM
| Thanks for your rapidity in getting back to my question(s) Peter & Edward. I really should send you both a jpg pix or two, so you can take a look at the setup yourself. I can tell you that the wire harness has not a trace of color-coding..the harness is all-black & the inner wire is a silver color. There are four seperate wires exiting the headlamp. Two wires exit the DBU, and two brass clips connect to the GH6, and the taillight unit..all this is easy to grasp. There are two wires spliced from the DBU, and two spliced from the headlamp. I don't know the need for, or how to setup a lead for the seatpost. The seatpost is not original to this bike. Edward, I did think that same thought about the use of shrink-wrap tubing for water- proofing and a clean splice-line (funny how chefs think alike sometimes!).. Peter, your R/B files are a godsend for someone researching the repair essentricities of British Roadster/Sports bicycles.
Brian "awaiting a Black Carradice w.light tan straps per my special request from Margaret in Nelson, Lancs." |
RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: DBU rewire
posted by P.C. Kohler on 12/20/2002 at 3:45:29 PM
| Edward... now you've gotten yourself into a real bind... my FSU on my '51 Rudge: dull as dishwater just like yours was. So now I can just send to you for repair, eh?
As for my on-the-blink GH6 on my '49 Rudge, I fixed it. Guy style. Opened up the headlamp, jiggled the wiring a bit, unscrewed the bulb and put back. Presto! Now, that's the extent of my electrician skills.
P.C. Kohler |
WANTED: 1951 Raleigh catalogue
posted by: P.C. Kohler
on 12/18/2002 at 10:39:14 PM
| Does anyone out there have a copy of Raleigh's 1951 catalogue (UK)?? I am seeking a scan or xerox of a specific model listing.
Thanks.
P.C. Kohler |
AGE / VALUE: Forever black: tyre restoration!
posted by: David Poston
on 12/18/2002 at 9:56:06 PM
| I posted a little while back about a unique product called "Forever Black" which is not a dressing so much as it is a permanent dye for auto tires. No one seemed to respond to my post.
Well, I have just applied this miracle product to all of my tyres: Dunlops and Raleigh roadsters. It really works! Not a silicone product (such as Armorall) which is unsafe for cycle tyres and wears off easily, this is water-based and supposed to stay on for 1 year on automobiles! 1 YEAR! Imagine how long it should stay on a bicycle, which gets many less miles than a car. Now my tyres have a black, low-gloss sheen that matches my frames which have undergone the full 3M treatment: 3M Rubbing Compound, 3M Swirl Mark Remover (for dark-colored cars), and 3M Paste Wax. I'm not kidding around here. My bikes are looking better than new. I will soon have photos hopefully to show you what these products can do.
If anyone is interested in the Forever Black, I will post the link. I believe I purchased it from properautocare.com.
David |
RE:AGE / VALUE: Forever black: tyre restoration!
posted by Ben on 12/20/2002 at 12:38:33 PM
| Forgive me for not responding, David, but I have been assembling new bikes for the Christmas shopping season, and besides, the tires on my roadster are gum-color!
Happy Holidays,
Ben, who still has not located a source for red or white 28" tires... |
RE:AGE / VALUE: Forever black: tyre restoration!
posted by james R. on 12/30/2002 at 4:44:27 PM
| Where can this product be purchased? |
ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Pre-war Dawes info required
posted by: Bruce Robbins
on 12/18/2002 at 11:34:34 AM
| I'm due to pick up a 1939 Dawes Super Club frameset in a couple of weeks. The paintwork is very poor and there's virtually nothing left of the transfers. Does anyone have photographs of a Dawes of similar vintage so that I can see what the headbadge/transfer and the other decals were like.
I have the headbadge from a late 1950s/early 60s Dawes and was wondering if the 1930s badge was similar.
Thanks,
Bruce |
RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Pre-war Dawes info required
posted by P.C. Kohler on 12/18/2002 at 3:59:22 PM
| Just a hunch-- have you checked Lloyds Cycles website for their list of transfers?? They specialise in club and racing marques and might have some pre-war ones for Dawes. And you may very well find the headbadge is a transfer not a brass thingy. The other possible source is Classic Transfers. Check out eBay for old issues of "Cycling" magazine (there are several out there now) for this period. The ads are invaluable and Dawes was a regular advertiser. But I reckon someone out there will have a pre-war Dawes catalogue.
P.C. Kohler |
AGE / VALUE: Rileigh club on ebay
posted by: sam
on 12/18/2002 at 1:07:44 AM
| (Not mine etc.)Verry cool rileigh on ebay--OK it is in England--shipping I was told by an english seller would be around 150 to 175.that Adds quite a bit to a bike,but this is the kind that might make that acceptable http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2150527076&category=420 |
ENGLISH ROADSTERS: BSA Black-Out Roadster
posted by: P.C. Kohler
on 12/18/2002 at 1:01:54 AM
| It's been said that more Britons died in traffic accidents during the "Phony War" Sept. 1939-May 1940 than by enemy action owing to the black-out conditions imposed throughout the country.
Thus it was interesting to find in BSA's 1940 catalogue (presumably the last for the duration?) a rather intriguing All White Roadster for extra visibility at night. One wonders how many of these were manufactured... quite "different" from the sombre roadsters.
I have posted the catalogue page depicting this on Roll Britannia:
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rollbritannia/vwp?.dir=/Topical&.dnm=BSA+All+White+Roadster+1940+b.jpg&.src=gr&.view=t
See under Photo Albums: Topical if the above link doesn't work.
In addition to this 1940 BSA catalogue, I purchased the following catalogues in London recently:
Raleigh 1957
New Hudson 1955
Triumph 1957
Humber 1950
Humber 1954
Humber 1955
Hercules 1950
Hope to scan some of these and post eventually on Roll Britannia.
P.C. Kohler |
ENGLISH ROADSTERS: rod brakes & handlebar modifications
posted by: SPENCER HOWELL
on 12/17/2002 at 11:03:16 PM
| I HAVE A RALEIGH "BOBBIES BIKE" (DL-1) AND THE NEARLY U-SHAPED HANDLEBAR HITS MY KNEES ON SHARP TURNS IF I'M NOT CAREFUL. I HAVE ROD BRAKES. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF A MOR E HORIZONTAL HANDLEBAR WITH A LONGER STEM AND ROD BRAKES EXISTS TO CHANGE THE RIDING POSITION A LITTLE BIT FOR MORE COMFORT. I HAVE A ONE SPEED BIKE WITH ENCLOSED CHAIN AND WOULD ALSO LIKE TO CHANGE TO A 3 SPEED HUB. WILL THIS DESTROY THE ANTIQUE NATURE OF THE BIKE OR DID GEARED VERSIONS EXIST? WHEN I WAS A KID I HAD AN ENGLISH CYCLE NAMED ELSWICK WHICH HAD ROD BRAKES AND MORE COMFORTABLE HANDLEBARS BUT THEN, THAT WAS 40+ YEARS AGO AND PERHAPS I HAVE CHANGED. |
RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: rod brakes & handlebar modifications
posted by P.C. Kohler on 12/18/2002 at 1:36:09 AM
| Of course you "may" add a Sturmey Archer gear to a single speed machine! Indeed, the backbone of any cycle range were the workhorses like the Raleigh Dawn, Rudge Super Safety and Humber Cob which were offered stock with no gears but always came with the option to add a SA hub and GH6 front dynohub. This made for a wide range in prices: in 1949, a basic single-speed Rudge Super Safety cost £12. 8 s. 10 d., but there was the option to fork over another £1. 19 s. 2 d. for an AW hub and £2. 8 s. 9 d. for a GH6 dynohub. Interesting the GH6 cost rather more! So very prototypical. And common to upgrade at a later date so even say a 1955 AW could be find its way on a '49 machine etc.
Of course, the fun thing is to find an authentic SA hub and shifter of the same vintage as your machine. Easier than you think and worth doing I think. By the way, what is the make of your single-speed bike?
P.C. Kohler, who remembers hiring an ancient single-speed, gearcase fitted Raleigh in Glengariff, Ireland in 1981.
|
RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: rod brakes & handlebar modifications
posted by Ben on 12/18/2002 at 3:30:45 PM
| Spencer,
My Phillips has the same bars. It took me a couple of days to get used to it, and now I wouldn't change them for anything. First, my experience is that there are not really many turns sharp enough to make this an issue. Second, you will be challenged to find any bars with different stem extensions for rod-brake bikes, if they do indeed exist. IMHO the cost/benefit ratio to get new bars and fit them is not favorable. Enjoy your old bars!
Ben, who likes the stately riding position caused by these old-fashioned bars. |
Want to trade?
posted by David Poston on 12/18/2002 at 9:43:19 PM
| Spencer,
How old are your handlebars? Pre-war? Are they the old "square" style without the forward bend that go straight back toward the rider? I want these! I have 70's bars on my DL-1 which I'd be willing to trade. Send me an e-mail if you're interested.
David, who also can't get enough of the stately riding position caused by these ole bars |
RE:Want to trade?
posted by David Poston on 12/18/2002 at 9:48:19 PM
| These are the bars I'm looking for. I found this on Peter's Rollbritannia site, a 1940 DL-1 coaster brake. I'm not sure who posted it there.
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rollbritannia/vwp?.dir=/eBay+English+Cycles&.src=gr&.dnm=1940s+DL1+coaster+bike.jpg&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rollbritannia/lst%3f%26.dir=/eBay%2bEnglish%2bCycles%26.src=gr%26.view=t
David |
RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: rod brakes & handlebar modifications
posted by sam on 12/18/2002 at 9:56:10 PM
| Spencer,the bars you want were made.They turned up instead of the common turn down version.I haven't seen them in years. |
AGE / VALUE:
posted by: Robert
on 12/17/2002 at 10:23:49 PM
| I found a English bicycle at a thrift shop for under $15.00 and it's sez Royal Sabre 3spd 1955 on the hub. I don't know the brand or anything about these bikes...It's in really great condition and everything works. How much you think is the value of this bike? |
RE:AGE / VALUE:
posted by David on 12/17/2002 at 11:04:19 PM
| Who cares? It's worth $15 and you should buy it. |
RE:AGE / VALUE: Royal Sabre
posted by Chris on 12/18/2002 at 1:10:52 AM
| It's likely to be gone when you return to buy it. Not at that price. It is not worth more than $50.00 I don't know anything about Royal Sabre but it may be a Raleigh with Royal Sabre being just a name plate and decal scheme.
|
RE:AGE / VALUE:
posted by Mark R. on 12/18/2002 at 3:00:57 AM
| My wife had a "Royal Sabre" that I bought at a flea market. It was a Raleigh clone. It rode very nicely, and my wife always liked it. It had the annoying red paint that you often see on english bikes, that tends to wear very badly so you can see the black under it. Never-the-less the wife liked it, and I think you should nip right on back there and snag it before it goes. |
ENGLISH ROADSTERS: CELTA SADDLES?
posted by: Mario Romano
on 12/17/2002 at 7:00:37 PM
| I have a problem here, do englishmen made leather saddles with the brand "Celta"? Afornali, another brazilian collector, is selling NOS leather saddles (identical to Brooks B-73) with this brand on the leather.
What's up? Really exists the brand "Celta" on the english saddle makers or it's forgery? |
RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: CELTA SADDLES?
posted by David on 12/17/2002 at 11:19:15 PM
| Never heard of English "Celta." Are you sure it's not Spanish or Argentine? More important question: Is the saddle good? |
RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: CELTA SADDLES?
posted by Chris on 12/18/2002 at 1:31:11 AM
| Lots of companies sat a English Brooks on the table, looked at it and copied it. Millions of these imitation copied leather saddles are in use. Compared to a Brooks, Ideale, or Lepper the copies are not as good but are cheaper in both price and quality. In other parts of the world where the 'real thing' is not in use then the copies as we say are the normal thing to them and those people probably don't have an issue with it. How does it feel when you ride it?
However most of the folks here would want what is original to the bike and that is a genuine Brooks leather saddle from England. Or Dunlop, or Lycette, or Phillips marked leather saddles.( All of these are British) Given the choice, no matter the price I would have a Brooks and never ride a 5 Rams or the brands that you mentioned. I would not want to break the continuinty of the bicycle and thus keep it all British and original. For appearence and also out of loyality. People "in the know" would say: The seat(saddle) is wrong" The Brooks saddle is a beautiful thing and all other leather seats pale in comparison. This is a cost issue and countries that copied the British bicycle did the same with the leather seats. Some things were copied expertly and some things did not come out so well. Diffrences in finishes, quality and sometimes just by looking you can tell. If you are into E- bay then you can buy from anybody you choose to and in that case you can go beyond the local made goods if you want to. Unless you choose to support the brands that you recognize and know of. It is up to you.
Brooks was advertised as: The finest saddle ever made.
Millions of people have ridden a Brooks, it is fondly remembered. I have bought up bicycles but the leather Brooks? They shake their heads and say no. We get a wrench, and remove it and he keeps it. People love the Brooks leather saddles.
The springs are diffrent, the construction of the thing is off in some ways and the copies do not last as long as the real thing. I'm writing with a bias here that you will find among true fans of English bicycles. |
RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: CELTA SADDLES?
posted by Chris on 12/18/2002 at 1:33:48 AM
| The brand "Celta" I have never heard of that. It is possible that it is British but I think I would have heard of it. Ask "Where is this made?" |
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