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Archived: English Roadsters

AGE / VALUE:   Brooks saddles posted by: David on 6/22/2002 at 12:05:54 PM
Some of my saddles have an embossed "Brooks" nameplate on them, some have only a flat painted plate. Anyone know when the cheaper flat nameplate came into use?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Brooks saddles posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/25/2002 at 10:00:13 PM
Must have been a long time ago David; I bought my first B-72 in 1971 or 72 and it had the flat metal plate. Later they used those icky plastic ones. I think metal ones are back.

P.C. Kohler

AGE / VALUE:   Phillips posted by: Art on 6/22/2002 at 5:38:30 AM
Any opinions on this Phillips....? How about those double bars? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2114645910

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Phillips posted by David on 6/22/2002 at 12:05:43 PM
There's a thread on this bike below.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Phillips posted by sam on 6/23/2002 at 2:51:40 AM
Not a Mexico Phillips,the bars are too far apart.They do sell a motor kits that use a large sprocket.The kits are made in China.They sell on ebay too


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Phillips posted by David on 6/23/2002 at 10:47:42 PM
It's been suggested that the double top bar bikes are export or made-overseas-under-licence models. I just happened to see the beginning of Hitchcock's "Suspicion" (1941) and there were some bikes like that leaning against the fence; obviously made in England.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Phillips posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/24/2002 at 1:06:05 AM
Actually, "Suspicion" was made in Hollywood, USA! This was one of several Hitchcock films produced by Selznick. The two loathed each other!! God knows where Selznick got such cycles; knowing him, there must be a memo about it on file somewhere. "We need English looking bicycles for this picture. Urge you acquire some soonest at best price. If any American bicycles appear in scene, picture to be entirely reshot."

As for double top-tube cycles, I've never seen one in England except for delivery cycles. The reference to producing such machines in Nottingham for export to certain countries came from "The Story of the Raleigh Cycle" by Gregory Houston Bowden.

P.C. Kohler

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh knock off handlebar source posted by: Robert on 6/22/2002 at 3:34:21 AM
I am in need of some aftermarket "Raleigh Copy" handlebars.
I have seen bars listed from some suppliers as "North Road".
Anyone have experience with aftemarket bars labeled N. Road?.I need some that have a 1" diameter center where the stem clamps. Not really interested in the alloy ones Harris carries.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh knock off handlebar source posted by Matthew on 6/22/2002 at 7:41:11 AM
North Road Bends are a style not a brand, named after some bends on the old (pre-WW2) A1, Great North Road from London to Scotland. I've not often seen them separated from a bike but I'll keep an eye out. Is this for a cable braked bike?

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh knock off handlebar source posted by Robert on 6/23/2002 at 9:44:23 PM
This is for a cable braked bike. Some aftermarket supplier folks carry a North Road "style" in their lineup of products.
Bikepartsusa being one such supplier. I was wondering if anyone had used these and how close they were to the Raleigh "North Road" bars. I plan on using these on a "non- british" bike, hence the necessity of a 1" stem clamping area on the bars.


   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh knock off handlebar source posted by David Poston on 6/25/2002 at 2:25:46 AM
Would you be interested in some handlebars off a Raleigh Sports?


   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh knock off handlebar source posted by Robert on 6/26/2002 at 1:46:28 AM
Email me David and lets talk.


MISC:   misspelled ebay item posted by: Bruce on 6/21/2002 at 8:03:49 PM
I noticed a Rudge on ebay, number 2114358599, the pictures are lousy, real dark etc. it is a 21" frame, I'll have to admit if it was a 23" frame I probably wouldn't mention it. The seller's name is Bruce, no relation to me, just thought someone might be interested.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Keep up the good work. posted by: Matthew on 6/21/2002 at 7:45:23 PM
Hello. Its a long time since I visited this discussion area, mostly due to Limey bashing. However everyone deserves a break so I'm back giving it a good look. Things go from strength to strength, you guys are doing things well and saving bikes which are still being scrapped here in the land of the limey. Keep it up, because one day people will look around and notice that there aren't very many 50's and 60's roadsters about. I collect them but there is a limit to space and funds. If people can keep off the anti-English topic then I'll keep visiting what has to be the foremost discussion board for these machines. Ride safe. Matthew

PS. The oldroads site got a very good write up in the V-CC magazine, News & Views.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Keep up the good work. posted by David on 6/21/2002 at 8:18:50 PM
Limey bashing? There has been some bashing, but I sure hope it hasn't been of the people who invented the modern safety bicycle!

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Keep up the good work. posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/21/2002 at 10:00:00 PM
On this board by people who, one presumes, revere British bicyles? Certainly not from this arch Anglophile who knows his mudguards from "fenders" and tyres from "tires".

P.C. Kohler, up at 2.30 am DST to see England vs. Brasil

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Keep up the good work. posted by Mark R. on 6/21/2002 at 10:25:56 PM
Hey! Limey bashing? I find it hard to believe anyone on THIS site would engage in Limey bashing. If anyone did, I'm sure ALL of us would ask to have their stupid comments removed. Nearly everyone in the US likes Brits alot. Shucks, on this site everyone probably wishes they WERE limeys! Please, please write back often, and in detail about anything concerning English bikes, or people. I will personally look up and kick the snot out of any wanker who bashes your lot! That's a promise.
Now, how many bikes do you have, and tell us all about them.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Keep up the good work. posted by Kevin on 6/21/2002 at 10:27:07 PM
Speaking of limey bashing, I was reading an article the other day about how unreliable many vintage British sports cars are. The writer said that the English don't make computers because they can't figure out a way to make them leak oil. Nasty, nasty.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Keep up the good work. posted by geo on 6/21/2002 at 10:43:39 PM
Who's partaking in limey bashing. The British are our finest ally. I personally hold the British in great regard. I am not only a fan of the finest bicycles made but also of most things British(except the food). For instance, British comedy and speaking of bashing, is nothing sacred in British comedy. I'm of Finnish descent and I saw them make fun of Finn's on Fawlty Towers once. Finn's, nobody makes fun of Finn's they're too boring. Not to mention, the French, Italians, Spanish, ect. ect. I must say you people have raised bashing to a high art, but we still like you anyway. Glad you're back. We could use a British perspective here.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Keep up the good work. posted by rickey@knowles bicycle shop on 6/21/2002 at 11:19:20 PM
all in all just like the many boxes of cereal at the grocery store man made bikes & as well people all arround the world if we could sit togather like the cereal on the shelf the world would be the greatest place to be

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Keep up the good work. posted by Stacey on 6/21/2002 at 11:26:06 PM
I'm surprised at the 'oil leak' reference Kevin. More understandably would be an unreliable power supply. We're all familiar with 'Lucas "The Prince of Darknes" Electrics'.

British cars don't leak oil... they ooze charisma!

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Keep up the good work. posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/22/2002 at 12:58:06 AM
Heck, even my British wife has discovered the joys of classic English-made cycles even if I had to firmly resist her efforts to put a 'soft' saddle on her DL-1L! No Limey bashing here lad... we have cupboards filled with Jeyes Fluid, Bovril, Marmite, Typhoo Tea as well as Proofhide and Sturmey Archer oil. Heck... I even love Lucas cycling lamps although I'll still chuckle at the 'Lucas, Prince of Darkness' joke about their car electrics of the late 60s.

By the way... the one entity that I simply could not 'convert' to the glories of DL-1 Roadsters and classic cycles: the British executives of TI Raleigh!! They humoured me as a right nutter even allowed me to spend hundreds of pounds on spares, but they just couldn't 'get it'.

P.C. Kohler


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Keep up the good work. posted by Matthew on 6/22/2002 at 7:37:54 AM
Thank you all very much indeed. My toe in the water has convinced me to keep in touch. You ARE a great bunch of folk. What about trying Yorkshire Tea by Taylors of Harrogate? My favourite tipple. Please don't kick the reef-knot out of any 'merchants who are anti- Brit just get them to ride a DL-1 or similar, that should sort them out and convert them. Perhaps Raliegh were aiming at world peace through a common cause, the bicycle. Matthew

AGE / VALUE:   Dynohub diagnosis posted by: dave on 6/21/2002 at 5:18:52 PM
The front Dynohub I recently acquired has a jerky feel when I spin it ... not a cone adjustment problem and I doubt it is the bearings, but it feels like the magnets are causing the resistance at certain points in the revolution of the wheel. I have seen the assembly/disassembly instructions but no
hints as to how to diagnose what needs to be fixed/replaced ... all thoughts/suggestions/speculations are welcome. thanks

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Dynohub diagnosis posted by Bill Putnam on 6/21/2002 at 6:19:23 PM
What you describe sounds like a normal Dynohub. The Dynohub has a 20 pole magnet and for each revolution, there will be 20 distinct push/pulls as you rotate the hub. Note that once mounted on a bike, almost all the energy put into the push is recovered as the hub pulls itself to the next resting point.

For some info on Dynohubs see

For bulbs go to Reflectalite:
The number is GH 107. This is a halogen bulb which is much brighter than the original vacuum bulb. I use a dynamo regulator with this bulb do not use a taillamp.

Do be careful not to pull the armature out of the magnet or you will demagnetize the magnet.

Bill Putnam

MISC:   Raleigh Tricycles posted by: Edward in Vancouver on 6/20/2002 at 9:11:51 PM
Just saw my first tricycle yesterday. Red with white fenders and chaincase, solid tires, front wheel had rod brakes, rear wheels had a freewheel in the center of the axle. Looks as if the trike could be lengthened by adjusting a bolt and sliding the rear part along the main bar. Were these trikes common? Are they worth much?

   RE:MISC:   Raleigh Tricycles posted by Warren on 6/20/2002 at 10:03:10 PM
An adult trike...I should think they are quite collectible. I've seen a Holdsworth in a shop and the owner thinks its rather valuable.

   RE:MISC:   Raleigh Tricycles posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 6/21/2002 at 4:56:43 PM
Are you referring to the Winkie childs tricycle? I have diagrams on that too.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Raleigh Tricycles posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/22/2002 at 1:08:33 AM
I've always been intrigued by the fabled Twinkie; talk about a perfect cycle for rich little Empire builders. This baby cost £9. 9 s. 6 d. in 1954!! For a bloody tricycle!!! Does anyone have one of these? I've never seen any photos of one. There was a Humber version called the Chunkie (!) and one presumes a Rudge too; anyone know its name? Surely one could fit a Dynohub?! But it did have that cool extra boot.

P.C. Kohler


   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Raleigh Tricycles posted by Edward in Vancouver on 6/25/2002 at 1:48:48 PM
The trike is displayed in a store that specialises in recumbants, didn't ask the owner if was for sale,'cause I'm not prepared at this time to make an offer. The trike has no decals other than the gold "Raleigh" mid 50's style decal on the full chaincase. Looks like the chaincase had been hand painted white once-upon-a-time. The trike stands about 30 inches high. Rod brake on the front wheel really got my attention though. The front wheel has stamped sheet metal forks, and the brakes are anchored directly in the fork, tires are the solid wired-on type though

   RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Raleigh Tricycles posted by Chris on 6/25/2002 at 3:12:38 PM
Thats a Winkie!

AGE / VALUE:   R-R-A Ruminations posted by: Geoff Rogers on 6/20/2002 at 7:58:35 PM
I have been riding my thirties Raleigh Record Ace this week. I drive to the bike path, ride it about four miles and then pick up route 9 into Northampton, a couple more miles, to my office. I normally ride a 28"-wheel Dunelt (a DL-1 clone, kind of), which has a statly ride, but I though I would try out the R-R-A for a change.
This thing is alive! Raleigh's best prewar bike is really different from my other machines, lighter, more responsive. It feels like it is begging to be ridden.
I found it sitting outside a house eher an old fellow had a bunch of bikes for sale. it had no saddle and looked as though it had sat outside for decades. All the bearings were seized solid, and most of the proper R-R-A bits had been replaced with forties vintage Sports parts: a 1940 AW hub with raised-center rim, sports-type cranks, North Road handlebars. I cleaned it up, found some vintage Bluemels white plastic fenders for it, and installed a pair of 26 x 1-3/8" rims from a '60 Dunelt, plus new cables and Brooks B-17 saddle. I found some fluted cranks on a 70's Record and used them, along with the rattrap raleigh pedals on that bike. I removed the large chainring. I used the North Road bars.
I was planning on getting a set of track bars for the bike, but recently I acquired a 1936 Raleigh catalog and pictured in it is a R-R-A in "touring" trim, with North Road handlebars. I do not like dropped handlebars, so I was delighted to find that the North Roads might be considered "correct". Now I want a 4-speed hub for the old girl. Anybody have one for sale or trade?
Ride on!
Geoff Rogers

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   R-R-A Ruminations posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/20/2002 at 9:03:52 PM
Geoff-- stop! You're making me even more depressed I did win the bidding on that gorgeous 1955 Raleigh Super Lenton on eBay last week! Four speed SA FM hub, Reynolds frame, Bluemels mudguards, GB fittings, mint. Colour: plum. I just think to ride this type of machine and alternate with a DL-1 would be such a delightful difference! Yet these Lentons were also 100 per cent British right down to the braized on lamp brackets and pump pegs. Dignity and performance!

Anyway, I still enjoy road-racing the 10 speed lightweights on my DL-1. Chap on one of those multi-coloured, 20 ounce wonders tried to pass me yesterday when I in 3rd gear and flying (admitedly on level ground!) and.... he gave up after about 2 mins!! Love to show 'em the white-painted back of me mudguards.

Good job bringing that Record Ace back from the dead; she obviously appreciates your efforts!

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   R-R-A Ruminations posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/20/2002 at 9:12:47 PM
Left out the all important word "NOT" win the bidding....!

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   R-R-A Ruminations posted by Bill Putnam on 6/21/2002 at 6:22:43 PM
Keep an eye on e bay for 4 speed Sturmey hubs. They come up fairly regularly (including FM's)

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   R-R-A Ruminations posted by David on 6/22/2002 at 12:01:39 PM
2 FMs are on ebay now; definitely used, but price may be right. (SA hubs from England cost 11 pounds 50 p to USA by post)

WANTED:   28" Whitewall tires posted by: Tom on 6/20/2002 at 7:30:04 PM
Is there anywhere that I can get 28x1 1/2 or 3/4" (700's)tires for old bikes. I have 2 pairs of originals but want to keep them for showing the bikes. Anyone have any they want to sell or is there a company who makes them.

   RE:WANTED:   28 posted by David on 6/21/2002 at 4:21:37 PM
Harris Cyclery seems to have them. A guy at Kenda Tires emailed me the followin distributors, too (in Mass)
1. C-Tel Distributors
Phone: (781)391-5120
2. Allied Cycle Distributor
Phone: (781) 899-3571
I haven't contacted them, so I don't know if they actually have stock.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   transfers from Lloyds Cycles posted by: P.C. Kohler on 6/20/2002 at 4:49:13 PM
I got my first order of transfers (decals) from Lloyds Cycles awhile back and finally summouned up the nerve to apply them to my DL-1. These are gorgeous! I put new Heron's Crests on the forks, a Raleigh tubing crest on the seat tube and best of all... new top tube lining. I am still pondering over which style of transfer to use on the down tube, seat tube and gearcase. My frame is a replacement and has non standard (but handsome) Danish transfers. I may cheat a bit and use the classic 1950s styles!

Lloyds sells the most wonderful lining, four strips to a sheet, enough to do one tube. These are wet transfers and with a little patience and practice, they really go remarkably easily. And they look brilliant! Comes in gold and red; I need to get the red next.I don't imagine these will work as well on curved mudguards. But I may experiment. Oh and a good coat of varnish over these expensive babies too! I wish Raleigh clear-coated their frames; all that factory lining and transfers just don't last "as is" forever.

Their website:


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   transfers from Lloyds Cycles posted by Edward in Vancouver on 6/20/2002 at 8:47:43 PM
Ah, but I bet you you don't have the "Dyno-luxe" and the "do not ride cycle when key is in lock" decals! Nick has been very helpfull with decals and other parts, which he likes to call "rocking horse manure parts". The only problem is what kind of a protective finish to use. The "English" english on Nick's instrutions about laquers and clear coats doesn't comply to "north american" english, and I'm still confused about what type of protective fnish to use. In the end I stuck to Testor's varnish, which I know from experience won't shrivel the decals. Comments?

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   transfers from Lloyds Cycles posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/20/2002 at 9:28:20 PM
No Edward... not yet because I have yet to install my DynoFour hub and lamps and battery case...! Need my cycle shop to build a new wheel for me first. Then I can order my Dyno-Lux transfers(with or without the "-", he has both!) And alas I don't have a locking fork either.

As for protective finish, I used what you used: plain old varnish. Seems to work great; traditional things usually do. At least on English Roadsters!

P.C. Kohler

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   My Raleigh Sport has arrived posted by: Robert Bailey on 6/20/2002 at 3:05:50 PM
My Raleigh Sport finally arrived via UPS and I can now understand why you love these bikes. It is a green 1974. I bought it because my lovely 1981 full Campy Trek Racer is a pain to ride. I wanted a sturdy, stable bike that I could ride upright. It also had to have character. Well this bike certainly is all those things. It is a bit more battle tested than the ebay ad suggested, but arn't they all? I can see steel and copper showing on the rims. A lot of scrapes and scratches and some surface rust on the frame. Dirt, grease and grime everywhere. I already overhauled the brakes and front wheel last night. If the other wheel, BB and headset are like the front, I think I need to get another can of WD40 to loosen up the dried up crud I know is yet to come. I replaced the mattress saddle with the used B66 I bought locally and after I got the front wheel back on and the brakes adjusted I took it for a spin on the dark street in front of my house after 10 p.m. I live in a very quiet neighborhood. The ride justified the purchase and I can't wait to get home to give it a few spins around the neigborhood in the daylight. This weekend, I overhaul the drivetrain.

One part is missing. The right concave plug that goes in the fork crown is missing. Does anyone have one for sell?

I have enjoyed this discussion page and look forward to being part of it in the future. I keep telling myself not to get another hobby to go along with a British Sunbeam Alpine, electic fans, old clocks and cameras. But I know there is a DL1 with my name on it out there and I know I have to get a two wheel Sunbeam Roadster to go with my four wheel Sunbeam Roadster.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   My Raleigh Sport has arrived posted by oil~s that loosens on 6/20/2002 at 8:01:51 PM
have you guys tried MARVEL MYSTERY OIL now in an aerosol less than $2.00 wont dry up like wd not a dirt magnet like other's get it at wal mart give it a try

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   My Raleigh Sport has arrived posted by Ray on 6/20/2002 at 8:39:30 PM
My question is are you selling that 81 Campy Trek? Hmmmm!

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   My Raleigh Sport has arrived posted by Edward in Vancouver on 6/20/2002 at 8:40:20 PM
Yeah, I've got a couple of those chrome dimples that are used to plug up the fork crowns. It's a labour of love extracting them from old Raleigh forks thrown in bike shop dumpsters though. I like to bake 'em. That is, I stick the fork in a moderate oven (250 F.) for about 15 minutes until they're toasty. Then drop an ice cube in the dimple, work a butterknife into the joint and pop the little guy out. This process does not always work, perhaps the dimples were simply stamped out with very low tolerances, and pounded in with a rubber hammer at the factory. In any case if you want one, give me a shout.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   My Raleigh Sport has arrived posted by Robert Bailey on 6/21/2002 at 6:28:48 AM
The Trek was a present to myself when I earned my Commission in the Navy at Pensacola. Lots of pain and sweat went towards paying for it. It was from when Trek made beautiful brazed and lugged frames.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   My Raleigh Sport has arrived posted by Robert Bailey on 6/21/2002 at 6:29:09 AM
The Trek was a present to myself when I earned my Commission in the Navy at Pensacola. Lots of pain and sweat went towards paying for it. It was from when Trek made beautiful brazed and lugged frames.

AGE / VALUE:   Supurbe posted by: ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 6/20/2002 at 12:41:39 AM
I forced myself to re-assemble a weathered Suburbe the other day. I was thinking "Why, the frame paint is not so hot." It needs a go over with a buffing wheel soaked in Kitt Scrach out and I was to lazy to do it to this one. So it's all assembled with the cleaned and polished chrome rims and new tires and re- done bearings and with a cotterless axle and aloy crankset. The 3 speed hub has a 4 cog freewheel on it and a double changer in front. I need to take it in for final setting because silly me does not yet own a frame stretching gizmo. I will soon because not having this tool is bugging me. Blumels white guards with old style U.S.A. wire guides from another English bike fender set. Drilled a hole in each mudguard and put in a origonal reflector in back and a bolt and nut in front. Pletcher rear rack.

The weathered black paint, gleaming chrome, white plastic guards, brass Raleigh badge (that I over cleaned with steel wool, just a tad) It's comming along to look interesting. Way cool is more like it. Yes! I have returned another old frame to service.

Stuck in the holders are 4 Huret Alvit metal jockey wheels. I got one out. I wanted to argue and find another way somehow of getting these out. I said "Vice" he said "No, you'll distort and ruin them." Final word was soak them in ammonia, the soak in W.D.40 and try it again.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Supurbe posted by Geoff Rogers on 6/20/2002 at 7:42:24 PM
A black Superbe? I thought they were all green. Later ones I have seen have all been bronze green, although I have seen two rod-brake Superbes (I own one, a 1950) with varey dark green non-metallic paint. Looks really neat.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Supurbe posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/21/2002 at 12:41:56 AM
That green you mention was called Raleigh Special Green and was reserved for the Superbe models. And at least in the early 1950s catalogues I have, these were also the only ones to mention gold lining. According to the specs I downloaded in Roll Britannia, there should be 28" dia wheel 24" frame Superbes out there as well painted that glorious green. The later Superbes had that icky Bronze Green; just never was partial to that colour. I don't known when this was introduced; I'd guess late 50s, early 60s.

I did not know that in c. 1954 Raleigh started to fit stainless steel rims with stainless spokes to the Superbe models as well. This was mentioned as being "reintroduced"; was this perchance resumed after wartime cutbacks?

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:Up and down, back and forth in time and space with the beloved Raleigh bicycle! posted by ChristopherRobin2@starmail.com on 6/21/2002 at 4:23:09 PM
Yes, it's black and with the locking fork. Raleigh offered a few shades of green. The Bronze -Green went thru changes. diffrent varying shades. Some turned out a bit icky some were glorious, glistening Bronze green. Some Bronze- Green had a lovely shade blue mixed in. Some R.S.W. 16 bikes from the 60's. Some Raleigh Superbes had a blueish mix with Bronze Green. Choppers had a apple green, then there was the "Flamboyant Green" also known to older Raleigh fans as Lenton Green.
Lenton Green was the richest, nicest, green they offered and that was back in the 1950's. In the 1930's and 1940's they went completely wild with the R.R.A.'S or Raleigh Record Ace machines. Light blue/ green a whole diffrent shade unique to the 1940 R.R.A.'S Oh, the many diffrent colors over the years. Later on, they went to powder coat to resist chipping and of course for cost reasons. The bike I had sent over, one of the very last 7 machines to leave Nottingham in 1987/88 was a 28 inch Royal Roadster ( Raleigh Tourist D.L.1.) and it was a 22 inch frame rod brake powder coated shade of green not seen before. Nice, but not stunning, not like the older bikes. It was the last gasp, my pal got one and I got one. The others went to Raleigh big wigs who loved the bike as well. Darn lucky to have gotten it at all, considering how late it had gotten. The paint was, well, how do I say it? Not like the older machines. It was awesome to take delivery, but that powder coat gren paint. UGH! This did not have the wire braces but the rods. So it was meant for the home market.
Most Superbes were Bronze-Green probably. The offered them in Coffee, Bronze- Green, Black, blueish, Bronze- Green. I have a black 28 inch, rod brake, locking fork Superbe and it is really nice. from 1955. Nicest set of rims I have ever see. Seller knew it, described the bike as "unmolested" and I got socked on it.

Double top tube, Flamenco- Red, African rod brake models with motors slung underneath speeds going up to 35 m.p.h.? I missed out on that! It was very close. South African bicycle shop mechanics tell me, they remember it at the time, rarely see them. They are looking, but I'm probably getting nudged over by bigger, more agressive fish in this pond. This wonderous, marvelous, motorized party didn't last long, thanks to Derby who supposedly called it "unprofitable"

FOR SALE:   Phillips Roadster on ebay!!! posted by: Fred A on 6/19/2002 at 6:48:01 PM

I've bought plenty of bikes from this guy in the past, but this is the first one like this I've seen him have. Never saw the chain-type springs before. Is this rare?


   RE:FOR SALE:   Phillips Roadster on ebay!!! posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/19/2002 at 8:57:49 PM
Now this is intriguing! Assuming it's a English made Phillips and not some "made under license" in Calcutta job, it's a perfect example of the Persian Gulf region export roadsters which all had that double top tube (of zero utility; it was just local prejudice!) and the sprung front fork. According to the Raleigh history, most English makes had special machines for various regions of the world. The jumbo rear sprocket is a headscratcher. How on earth did this thing get over here? I assume this is a single gear machine? Therefore, a "real" Third World English (we hope!) roadster.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:FOR SALE:   Phillips Roadster on ebay!!! posted by David on 6/20/2002 at 12:26:51 AM
I have a saddle I bought in India like that one; obviously a copy of an English model. Here's another ebay roadster with a good saddle; the "hairspring" style.

   RE:RE:FOR SALE:   Phillips Roadster on ebay!!! posted by Chris on 6/20/2002 at 12:40:54 AM
Later on the nice half circle loop where you put your finger to grab the bike by the rear seat was changed to a flat bar making it painful to grab instead of a real comfortable joy. A minor but noticeable diffrence. The bike is all set to have a sai-ka or side car rickshaw attachment added. Take a look at the book "Chasing Rickshaws" Nice bike in general. In many countries the added bar was a symbol of strength.

AGE / VALUE:   Superbe? posted by: dave on 6/19/2002 at 6:02:50 PM
I got a Raleigh at a garage sale last Saturday (first one after a long dry spell). Raleigh brown, men's frame, locking fork, front Dynohub, no saddle, no rear wheel -- guy said it was trashed but he saved the hub (AW '63). So I guess it qualifies as a Superbe??? ... but the brakes are the same as on the Sports. Also there are cable stops and guides on the right side of the top tube.

A couple of bad scratches on the frame ... anyone have a source for touch paint in this color? Also, trigger shifter has the plastic cover ... I thought this came after '63, so is this original?

No key for the fork of course, anyone have luck in getting locksmiths to make these?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Superbe? posted by Chris on 6/19/2002 at 7:41:21 PM
No problem getting a locksmith to make a key, they may well ask you to provide proof of ownership of the bike and then again they may not. It is listed in their books, believe it or not.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Superbe? posted by P.C. Kohler on 6/20/2002 at 2:53:40 PM
Dave: I posed the question about possible sources for touch-up paint a couple of days ago. Alas, no easy answers! I do see that touch-up paint for Raleigh Choppers comes up from time to time on eBay. I even had a bottle of the stuff for that "Coffee" colour but of course.... threw it out when my last Sprite 27 was stolen....!

You might try a model shop and experiment with metallic brown.

P.C. Kohler

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Install oil hole for bottom bracket posted by: Joe on 6/19/2002 at 4:42:23 PM
I just salvaged a Hercules 3-speed from the re-cycle. The SA hub indicates 1971, everything is intact, very little rust, all original and the tyres have been holding pressure for three days. I have oiled the SA hub and the front wheel hub, the gears work fine. I have not done anything with the bottom bracket-it feels good and I intend to take it apart and grease it but was wondering if anyone ever added an oiler to the BB? Three speeds are new to me, I always wanted one but my father would not buy "foreign" so the Roadmaster and Schwinn had to do. I have been looking to buy an old english 3-speed for a while and lo and behold I find a gem at the dump. Any help is appreciated I intend to use this as a 10 mile commute to work bike so it will get regular use.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Install oil hole for bottom bracket posted by ken on 6/19/2002 at 5:57:54 PM
It is customary to use grease in bottom brackets, so if you do a good overhaul you can expect it to last a long time (although at 100 miles a week you'll have to keep an eye on it) - but unless you're just in love with cottered cranks, and if you're going to take it apart, you might want to consider a more modern crankset. They're lighter and less, shall we say labor-intensive?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Install oil hole for bottom bracket posted by Mark R. on 6/19/2002 at 6:04:36 PM
You can add an oiler, but I wouldn't bother. Regular yearly or biyearly greasings of the BB will keep you going for years. If you find an old bike with a grease fitting, and add a little oil, you can sometimes jazz up the old grease enough to get by, but really that's kinda' cheating. Oh, by the way: I would keep the original crank if only for originalities' sake. They aren't that big of a problem. And, really what's a few extra pounds on a 40 lb bike anyway?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Install oil hole for bottom bracket posted by David on 6/20/2002 at 10:42:47 AM
The only problem with the BB is that it uses cotters. In my experience, the inexperienced mechanic usually damages the spindle taking one apart for the first time. (See Sheldon Brown) I found a [discontinued] Park cotter press on ebay that makes their removal and installation easy. If you can find or borrow one; or adapt a similar car or motorcycle tool the job is a cinch.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Install oil hole for bottom bracket posted by Bryant on 6/20/2002 at 4:56:45 PM
I've had luck removing cotters using a large C-clamp and a socket. Loosen the nut so that is some room between it and the crank, put the socket on the other end of the crank and apply the C-clamp. Tighten it up until you hear it pop. Then remove the contraption and remove the nut and take out the cotter. Got that trick from someone on this site. Works great.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Install oil hole for bottom bracket posted by Clyde on 6/21/2002 at 12:28:28 AM
For removing cotters, I've also used a large Craftsman c-clamp but with a bushing instead of a socket. With a wider flat surface, it won't leave an impression on the crank arm like a thinner socket may. ID - 11 mm (just larger than 9.5 mm cotters) OD - 25 mm, Height 20 mm. Mine may have been a car part from suspension or something like that.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Install oil hole for bottom bracket posted by Chris on 6/21/2002 at 4:59:50 PM
Outraged that Park tool Co. discontinued the cotter pin press. This is why I buy two or more of everything. Because one day, it will be gone.