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Archived: English Roadsters

AGE / VALUE:   Raleigh Twenty Value? posted by: Mike on 9/29/2002 at 5:23:28 AM
My uncle has a Ladies Raleigh Twenty 3-speed folding bike that has been in his garage for years. On the bike there is a UK Reg Design No. 931.741. It is in very good shape, even the Nottingham England decals are in good shape. We are interested in finding the value. Any suggestions?

AGE / VALUE:   Edward I didn't forget posted by: sam on 9/29/2002 at 1:55:17 AM
just didn't get to Hanks but will go tomorrow(Sun.)We're having a bike show so will also check out that guard for you--sam

AGE / VALUE:   www3.telus.net/bikesatboundary/bikesonboundary.html posted by: Michael on 9/28/2002 at 6:44:20 PM
It might be worth the time for those looking for parts to check this URL out. He advertised in the General for sale/Wanted discussion forum.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   www3.telus.net/bikesatboundary/bikesonboundary.html posted by Edward in Vancouver on 9/29/2002 at 2:35:28 AM
Ernie isn't just selling parts, he's selling the whole farm, lock, stock, and welding outfit. I've been out there a few times, about an hour out of Vancouver. He's got a secret stash of N.O.S. 26 tpi Raleigh headsets, crank cotters with the little red "R"s, and S.A. chrome taillights.

AGE / VALUE:   Kitt Scratch out- Blumels mudguards posted by: humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 9/28/2002 at 6:15:06 PM
I pulled the Blumels Noweights (vintage celuloid mudguards) off the dusty shelf and stuck them on the bike. After a good (gentle mind you as they are fragile) rubbing down with Kitt Scratch out. These now shine with a lovely lustrious finish. Even cleaned the alloy clip. Speaking of that alloy clip. I love these clips.It's two small clips side by side forming one clip.
The clip slowly moved and then snap! It was all mounted on the bike's rear brake bridge and I took a step back and thought "Hey looking good!" Blumels made wonderful mudguards! I love them!
Another thing is the rods that hold these are alloy, light alloy that I polished to a shine, where as, the modern rods of this type are steel and heavier in general.
After going through a emotional nerve wracking ordeal, I managed to save those parts from scrap and I said to him later: "Do you know know what was in that metal coffee can, Eugene??" Yes! The metal bolts and the small grey wingnuts that hold these Blumels mudguard stays on the bike! He smoked the pipe, smoke rising and he asks "Do you have those mudguards, Chris?" If you lose the chance and it goes to scrap, whatever it may or may not be you lose out big time. There is no telling what it really is, what is really in there unless YOU get ahold of it and sit and patiently look it over. At least with small containers of parts. Trick is to recognize what you are looking at!

FOR SALE:   What in the hell is a Paco Sports? posted by: Michael K. on 9/27/2002 at 9:19:16 PM
OK...I was trolling on eBay...I've never heard of a Paco Sports, but nevertheless, here's one...seller says this is connected to Raleigh, but I'm not sure.


Any word from some experts?

   RE:FOR SALE:   What in the hell is a Paco Sports? posted by Michael K. on 9/27/2002 at 9:24:12 PM
I forgot, ad says it's from the 1940's...

   RE:FOR SALE:   What in the hell is a Paco Sports? posted by sam on 9/29/2002 at 1:54:22 AM
is that a reflector on the pedal?

FOR SALE:   on eBay, Raleigh 1954 3-speed posted by: Michael K. on 9/27/2002 at 5:46:42 PM
not my sale, currently sitting at $61

1954 Raleigh 3-Speed, rod brakes, original Dunlops:


AGE / VALUE:    posted by: Mucus on 9/27/2002 at 4:50:14 PM
OK Raleigh boys, after the sign last week, you all ought to jump on this one!

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   repaint suggestions on rod brake sports posted by: Brian on 9/27/2002 at 12:14:48 PM
Has anyone a recommendation on the type of black paint/method to strip & repaint a old Raleigh rod brake Sport?
What tyres are really the best replacements for '50's English three-speeds?
Has anyone got rebuildable Raleigh-type pedals available for sale? I have items of possible interest for sale/trade as well.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   repaint suggestions on rod brake sports posted by Mucus on 9/27/2002 at 1:57:23 PM
You can strip the paint with "Zip strip" paint remover. Just follow the directions. After, use steelwool and really clean it nicely, and then wipe it off with a cloth dampened with alcohol. Let it dry thouroughly, then spray it with good quality primer, follow the directions. I always put several light coats instead of one heavy one. Then, use your steel wool, or light sanding paper and smooth the primer paint nicely. Then paint with a good quality spray black laquer. Put on a light but complete coat, let it dry a couple of days. Sand the paint smooth,and put anouther coat, sand and repete untill it comes out very nice and smooth, usually 4 coats. Then let the frame sit in a room temp. room for several months if possible, or at the very least a few weeks(winter time is best). After the paint has completely dryed very well, use light (#7 to #11) polishing compound and very lightly polish the paint. Don'y rub real hard, just enough to polish it. Then wax the frame with black Kiwi shoe polish PASTE. Let it dry and buff it, then sit back and admire your beautiful job.
I may also have a pair of peddals you can HAVE, I'll write back latter.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   repaint suggestions on rod brake sports posted by Edward in Vancouver on 9/27/2002 at 2:50:56 PM
The Raleigh pedal is great 'cause it IS re-buildable, but replacement blocks are impossible to get. I've stripped every "modern" pedal I could get my hands on just for the rubber blocks, but they are all too short for the Raleigh. What I ended up doing was trotting off to the hardware store and getting a pack of rubber "o" rings, the kind you use to refurbish your bathroom taps. Slip one ring on either end of the ruber block and now you have a rubber block the same length as the Raleigh, very hard to see the joint between the "o" ring and the block. The German and Japanese pedals have square bolts holding the pedals together, which also prevents the rubber blocks from rotating on the bolt. If you can find these in the right length, use them instead of the rond Raleigh ones. Remember that a Raleigh pedal will weigh almost twice as much as a newer one will. Then again, if Marcus is offering pedals for free, why go through all this bother...?

AGE / VALUE:   Phillips pedals on e- bay/ Thrill of doing it the old way posted by: humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 9/26/2002 at 6:50:37 PM
e- BAY ITEM #718156116 Phillips pedals
There are a pair of these. That means both, a right and a left. A complete set. Buying from somebody on e- bay is easier and more convient.
Hopefully, quickly and clean and without agrivation.
Not my auction, no relation to seller. When was the last time you saw just one right or left pedal put up for auction? Never!
One time, I was poking around in a shop basement and found this awesome pedal, rare, french threaded and it was a sought after model that would fetch a nice amount of coinage. One problem however, There was only one! Not the set of two but just one. I looked everywhere, pulled everything apart, tossed bikes to and fro and made enough racket to wake the dead. Speaking of the dead, I would have asked without hesitation "Where is the other pedal?" Nobody appeared except the (live) shop owner who asked that I be more quiet and put everything back into some resemblence of order. Every time he says that, I bust out laughing because this place is so disorderly and messed, mixed up it is unbelievable. Still, he wants his version of disorder and not mine so everything gets put back to the disorder I saw it first in. To bring back from the dead the first owners and let them see this shop in it's current state of affairs, they would really cry. I cry too, but still, I'm happy as a lark to be able to root thru it, anyways.
The pedal was not there. My bike pal across town demanded in loud tone that I: "Go back there and look harder!!" Usual question was "Where did you unearth this?" I had to admit defeat, the mate to it was not there! I'm explaining "It's just not there, OK?" The best part, and I'm lucky here was: After I was done, he started to tell me all about the pedal, the company, the years they were made, all sorts of things. Names of people who would want to buy it, everything.
Another thing is, there are absolutely NO bikes of any type or sort or vintage being put out at the kerb. It cannot be my fault, I'm not as sharp as I used to be, but still! Something's up.These days are spent reveling in experiences and adventures long past.The thrill of the hunt, the chase, the actual work involved in looking, the locations, the people, it's really fun.
Still, pictures in color and seeing the other goodies offered and getting the whole thing over with in 5 minutes has it's benefits too. Except that, they got it somewhere themselves, and I'd rather go about finding it like they did and it's usually cheaper too.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Yet another Raleigh DL question posted by: keith on 9/26/2002 at 2:06:57 PM
Would anyone like to describe the differences of a mid-50s Raleigh DL (rod brake) to a mid-70s Raleigh DL? They look similar from afar but am I overlooking important differences? Or did they not change at all over 20-some years?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Yet another Raleigh DL question posted by P.C. Kohler on 9/26/2002 at 5:05:35 PM
Not a lot of changes hence the nomination of the DL-1 as a bona fide "classic".

Defination: 28" wheels (Westwood rims), rod brakes, bolted backstay, roadster geometry with frame sizes of 22" and 24" (gents) and 22" (ladies). Larger frames (26") out of production by c. 1950.

Brands: DL-1 frame was sold as a Raleigh, Rudge or Humber; the latter two are RARE, even exceptional but they do figure in all the catalogues I've seen through the late 50s. I suspect you could also get a DL-1 as a Robin Hood or Gazelle too in the 50s.

Mudguards: these were square cut pattern until approx. 1970 when they took on a more rounded appearance, slight "lip" on front of front mudguard and bottom of the rear one.

Reflector: black until approx 1970, then white same diameter, then larger c. 1972 and then those yucky USDOT mandated things c. 1978.

Gearcase: standard fit to N. American export machines until the mid to late '50s. Then resumed in the mid 1980s just before export ceased. Otherwise, hockey stick chainguard.

Saddles: this seems to have varied a lot. B-72 was standard 1960s through to c. 1974. Then B-66. B-73s were also fitted occasionally.

Pump pegs: the DL-1 was about the only Raleigh to keep these until the end, phased out on Sports etc. mid 70s.

Grips: grey torpedo shaped (we need to find a replacement for these!!) until late 60s, then the familiar black ribbed style.

De Luxe models: the DL-1 frame was offered as a de luxe model with locking fork, dynothree hub (or dynofour UK), battery case, stainless Westwood rims (!) and special colours--Rudge: maroon, Humber: blue and Raleigh: green c. 1946-1958.

Police model: this differed mainly in having a hockey stick chainguard not a gearcase and offered as a Raleigh, Rudge or Humber.

Export models: other than US, included straight back handlebars, double top tubes and "balloon tyres" etc. for the Far East, Arabia, India and Pakistan, South Africa, Malaysia etc. Most if not all were single-speed. And DL-1s for Denmark, Netherlands etc. which by 1980s were exported as frames and fitted out locally.

That's about all I can contribute. Those with a nicer collection of catalogues, can add more I'm sure.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Yet another Raleigh DL question posted by P.C. Kohler on 9/26/2002 at 5:14:27 PM
Oops.. one more thing:

Brake rigging: up to c. 1955 black enamelled except for chromed front rods and stirrup, then all chrome-plated. Even the brake shoe holders were enamelled black up to this time.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Yet another Raleigh DL question posted by Drew on 9/26/2002 at 9:34:18 PM
P.C. Kohler, you seem to know a good deal about the DL1. I, and I'm sure other owners of these roadsters would love to have a printed guide or book to the now classic DL1/Tourist with all the detail changes through the years. I myself am interested in the early history of this wonderful machines, 1900-1940s. I think a nicely done book with photos would sell like hot cakes! After all, the roadster is an icon of cycling, Raleigh's being the leader of the pack.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Yet another Raleigh DL question posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 9/27/2002 at 12:30:12 AM
It's something to give serious consideration to. It has not been done yet, not really and there is growing interest in these bikes. Do a good, through, bang up job with lots of history and color pictures!

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Yet another Raleigh DL question posted by James on 9/27/2002 at 12:54:03 AM
Color pictures of black bikes? What's the point?

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Yet another Raleigh DL question posted by Chris on 9/27/2002 at 1:05:12 AM
Point is, the advertisements themselves which are almost considered art all by itself. Black paint that glistens, the gold and red box lining, a nicely done book.

   RE: best bike books posted by Warren on 9/27/2002 at 12:36:15 PM
For me, the definitive book for layout is "The Art of the Motorcycle". It was released in conjunction with the Guggenheim show that just closed in Vegas. Every bike is shown in profile in black and white and then colour pics and text follow that. A beautiful book.

Pryor Dodge's "The Bicycle" is also wonderful. A great historical look at our favourite hobby and it has magnificent pictures as well.

AGE / VALUE:   What have I got posted by: Johnnie Nelson on 9/26/2002 at 12:58:16 AM
I was given a bike the other day. It is a Raleigh and has sport across the front frame. on the hub it has a 3 and a 79. I assume it was built in March of 1979. It is in fair condition. All the charts jump from 1978 to 1980 and skips the 79. Why? Thanks

AGE / VALUE:   Another thread pitch sheet posted by: humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 9/26/2002 at 12:33:38 AM
I cannot make sense out of it, I guess it could have handy info on it, but it does have the one stud for rod brakes on it. I found it shuffling papers today. e- mail for a free copy

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Installing rod brake system on a '69 Robin Hood posted by: Keith on 9/25/2002 at 5:10:21 PM
Here's a question. Has anyone ever tried installing a rod brake system onto a formerly cable brake system 26" wheeled girl's 3spd Robin Hood bike. I suppose you would need to get an old handle-bar off a Raleigh DL -- or would you? Just checking all possibilities. Impossible?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Installing rod brake system on a '69 Robin Hood posted by Mucus on 9/25/2002 at 6:41:57 PM
It's been done. First you need the right rims although the brakes will work on "Raleigh" pattern Sturmey Archer rims but they are not correct and it is difficult to make good brake pad contact, you must drill holes in the lugs at the correct possitions on the front lug of the bottom bracket, and the front top lug of the down tube to mount the fulgrums and such. And yes, you need the proper bars with the rod brake levers attached. It COULD be made to work, but I don't know if it would be worth the bother since the bike would no longer be original, and the brakes are crummy compared to cable operated brakes (don't hate me, you know it's true). It could be an interesting exersize though.......yeah, I got al old Robinhood 24 in frame sportsHmmmm......makes ya think....

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Installing rod brake system on a '69 Robin Hood posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 9/26/2002 at 12:28:35 AM
You guys go where gutless Chris (me) dares not to. Be careful that the spacing of the bike is possibly/ usually diffrent. I have a rod brake Humber and a cable brake 26 inch wheel Humber and the two frames are diffrent. You don't want the rod brake rim to go touching the chainstay blades. You need a certain amount of clearence. I would not go doing this. The hybrid gear projects are about as wacky as I get. This is a good question, however.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Installing rod brake system on a '69 Robin Hood posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 9/26/2002 at 12:32:23 AM
The rim is diffrent, The Westwood rim is wider.Even though it takes the same 26 X 1` 3/8 tire that fits on the 26 x 1 3/8 endrick pattern rim.

Now if it is a Hercules pattern Westwood rim, a narrow section Westwood as Hercules Cycle and Motor called it, than you would be better off with more clearence.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Sturmey Archer Sign posted by: Tom on 9/25/2002 at 5:06:51 AM
Nice old Sturmey Archer Sign on Ebay. May be another one of those high priced treasures. How old would this one be? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=717529303

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Sturmey Archer Sign posted by David on 9/25/2002 at 12:38:22 PM
It's hard to see how this one will come close to the other one that had the delightful sequence with the African and the lion.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Sports from the early 70's posted by: Scott Ebersole on 9/25/2002 at 1:46:25 AM
Were Raleigh Sports from the early 1970's made anywhere other than Nottingham?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Sports from the early 70's posted by Mark on 9/25/2002 at 4:59:29 AM
I have a Humber Sports (a Raleigh by a different name) made in the early 1970's that has a decal stating "Made In The Republic Of Ireland." This is just speculation, but that may only mean that the bike was shipped over as parts, and then assembled in Ireland to avoid some import tariff that a built up bicycle would incur. I've also seen a Raleigh Sports from the early 1980's that has a "Made In Taiwan" decal on the frame, though most of the parts seemed to have been of European origin. The lugs and brazing on this Taiwan labeled frame were of execrable quality, by the way. Don't assume that any bike labeled Raleigh is necessarily a high quality machine.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Sports from the early 70's posted by Bob on 9/25/2002 at 8:39:55 AM
My 1974 Raleigh Sports is marked "Made in England, assembled in USA." I'm told this was an economy move, it being cheaper to ship the bikes unassembled. Quality seems fully up to Raleigh's traditional standards.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Sports from the early 70's posted by Michael on 9/25/2002 at 4:02:11 PM
There's a document on the web, I saved it but I don't have the URL, called 'Raleigh in the Last Quarter of the 20th Century.' In it is the quote, "If it’s not made in Nottingham, it’s not a Raleigh" which apparently was the traditional Raleigh company policy. The Rudges, Humbers and other brands, even though they were almost exactly like the Raleigh's were produced elsewhere.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Sports from the early 70's posted by P.C. Kohler on 9/25/2002 at 4:47:54 PM
A good slogan but Rudges, Humbers, Robin Hoods, Gazelles and all other Raleigh Industries brand cycles were indeed built at the Nottingham works. And in the old days, every single component, screw and widget except the tyres and saddles.

We've discussed foreign made (or assembled) Raleighs before. Assembled in Canada and USA for sure, built under license in Eire, Netherlands, South Africa, India, Nigeria and so forth.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Sports from the early 70's posted by Mucus on 9/25/2002 at 6:46:19 PM

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Sports from the early 70's posted by Michael on 9/25/2002 at 8:22:10 PM
Your right, went back and read the document again.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Sports from the early 70's posted by Catfood Rob on 9/29/2002 at 12:45:17 PM
Raleigh built Bikes in Ireland `till the mid 70`s when the factory burned down.... yes, built not just assembled.
Check www.raleighchopper.info theres the Irish story on there.