AGE / VALUE:   S.A. Two Speed posted by: Ian on 10/25/2003 at 8:56:30 AM
I was invited to help clean out a local cycle shop that was moving last night, sad thing was that he said " I suppose I should have phoned you before we filled the first bin"!!! However there were a few good items to score and among them was what appears to be a new Sturmey S2 two speed 36hole hub. I know nothing about these so I am hoping somebody can enlighten me. It is marked 68 7. There is no provision for a shifter chain so I presume it is a back pedal shift type. Also scored a new Shimano 3S hub and discovered that the three prong sprocket, clip etc are interchangeable with S.A. parts. Also some new S.A. axle nuts, some of which seem to be bright chrome while others are more silver, almost a zinc plate look. Was the standard of plating lowered over the years or are these pattern parts? Thanks, Ian.

WANTED:   Sturmey Parts posted by: Tom on 10/25/2003 at 3:33:32 AM
I am in need of a few Sturmey Archer parts from the late 50's. 4 speed shifter or 3/4 shifter. Shift chain and inside rod for 4 speed hub. Chrome lights and wires for dyno hub late 50's. I have some old British hubs and parts for trade if interested. I will also pay cash. Email me offline.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Pashley posted by: Mike on 10/24/2003 at 7:36:37 PM
Anyone have a Pashley roadster or have experience with them? The site has cable brake models pictured, do they sell rod brake versions?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Pashley posted by Ian on 10/25/2003 at 8:47:35 AM
Mike, Have a look at this bike which is on an internet auction here in New Zealand. Not my auction, no connection with the seller but it clearly shows rod front brake in 1993, not so sure about the rear. Hope this helps. Ian.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Pashley posted by MR on 10/26/2003 at 12:28:09 PM
Pashley untill resently made rod braked roadsters that were for all intense and purposes exactly like the Raleighs, but I believe they don't make the rod brake models anymore. They were expensive, and beautiful. If you can find one, you'll love it. Yes the bike in the Kiwi auction has rear rod brakes.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:    posted by: Mike on 10/24/2003 at 7:14:27 PM
Check out this one, looks sharp doesnt it?

AGE / VALUE:   OT: e-baying jollies posted by: David Poston on 10/24/2003 at 1:37:13 AM
Stopwatch in the left hand, mouse in the right, they don't stand a chance against me! Plus, I have a cable modem connection at speeds of 10 Mbps. I feel sorry for those poor dial-up modem people who are caught unawares, scratching their heads or cursing when the auction ends and they lose by a narrow margin.

David, who's had to resort to "sniping" to win auctions, often by a margin of $0.01!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   OT: e-baying jollies posted by Stacey on 10/24/2003 at 10:48:40 AM
Congrats David! Sniping is a wonderful way to spend your 3AM Friday isn't it? :-) What's your closest snipe? I've pulled 4 seconds on a 3 station LAN w/ a 33.6 dial up.

My secret, two browsers, one that shows time remaining & current bid ammount, the other that sows the "Bid now" button with my Max. Bid already entered. When the countdown clock hit 10 seconds I'd fire off my bid. No "Sniper software" I've seen can counter such an attack and by the time the bid registers with a human the games all over.

'Tis often said the thrill is in the hunt. To that I say NEVER! The thrill is in the Kill! Keep up the good work mate :-)

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   OT: e-baying jollies posted by Kurt R. on 10/24/2003 at 1:00:39 PM
One does not have to loose to the high tech folks, yes you'll pay more, but it's worth it for a rare bike. Last year I put a bid of $950. on that red '67 Raleigh Tourist (factory paint). It was bid from $260 to $749. in the final seconds, so I got still got the bike. It was a lot of money, but how many original red roadsters do you see!

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   OT: e-baying jollies posted by David Poston on 10/24/2003 at 5:52:41 PM
I've found that a combination of placing a high proxy bid with last-minute bidding is the key. I thought of using the two-browser-window method, but I was scared it wouldn't work; I'll try it next time. What I did is use a stopwatch, synchronized to e-bay time; I had my max bid ready and clicked "confirm" with 7 seconds to go. I immediately found myself the winner with 5 seconds still to go, which means that it only two 2 seconds for my bid to go through. Next time I'll try bidding with 3 or 4 seconds to go. Of course, if I was using a 33k dial-up modem, I'd be a lot more cautious.

What surprises me now is that there are bidders out there who bid four days in advance, and then are shocked when they get an e-mail stating that they "were not the winning bidder."


   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   OT: e-baying jollies posted by steve on 10/24/2003 at 9:54:28 PM
They need to understand that it's a game, not a store. In that vein, I soon took up the custom of giving the screen a "well-done" salute when I got outbid. . .

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   OT: e-baying jollies posted by sam on 10/25/2003 at 1:50:50 AM
Guess I may as well not bid on this then! (not my auction)

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   OT: e-baying jollies posted by David Poston on 10/25/2003 at 4:25:57 AM

Wow! You shouldn't have shown me this link. How about we split it 50/50? I only need one of the S/A top tube shifters and one S/A 50's era handlebar shifter. You can have the rest, including the Bramptons. Sound like a deal?

By the way, what are Brampton hubs? I know virtually nothing about them. The shifters look very interesting, a change from the regular S/A ones.


   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   OT: e-baying jollies posted by dafydd on 10/27/2003 at 8:51:42 PM
why not just bid what you *really* will pay for it and just walk away? if you're willing to do top dollar you're going to get it anyhow... you're rarely going to truly win by one cent, most likely you have to bid in 50-cent or dollar increments over the xx.01 current high bid, it just looks like you've won by the slimmest margin. Sniping gets tiresome and get the same result in the end: The person with the most gets it.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   DL-1 Frame Sizes posted by: jack on 10/23/2003 at 10:12:15 PM
I have a men's and a women's DL-1 (late '70's). The women's model has a head tube 7-1/4" long and the men's is 5-1/4" long. Normally this would indicate to me that the men's is a shorter frame. Yet both bikes have a 22" C-T seat tube which says both frames are the same size. As I see it, the men's and women's frames must have different geometry in order to accomodate both different length head tubes and same length seat tubes. Am I missing something?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   DL-1 Frame Sizes posted by Warren on 10/25/2003 at 2:48:49 AM're not taking into account that the top of the womens headtube reaches far "higher" that the male counterpart. This, combined with the slack angles of the headtubes changes the riders position, ie: the stem and bars are closer and higher to the rider.The men's frame would have a similar position if you used a 12" stem on one of the 22" Tourist frames (as opposed to the 24" model). The seatube length on a womens frame is shorter and makes it more comparable to the smaller mens bike.

I suspect the actual geometry is the same for both bikes..

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: DL-1 Frame Sizes posted by jack on 10/25/2003 at 7:27:34 AM
Thanks Warren, I believe your right. I measured length of top tubes(C-C) and the men's is 24", women's is 23". This design makes sense if you assume women would benefit from a shorter top tube.

MISC:   Any experience with posted by: Tim on 10/23/2003 at 6:27:33 AM
This outfit has a decent, if somewhat cryptic, selection of parts. However, over the past several days, I've attempted to order several things, and EVERY ONE OF THE ITEMS SEEMS TO COME UP "OUT OF STOCK" OR "DISCONTINUED" the NEXT DAY after ordering. Seems I may be doing their inventory for them, since the items disappear from the site after I order them. I'm beginning to wonder if they are a operating business at all. Has anyone had a successful dealing with them in the past?

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Wanted: project bike posted by: James Biffin on 10/22/2003 at 8:56:53 AM
I'm looking for a project, something that will need a bit of work, I would also consider a bike in need of a full restoration - I need something to fiddle with. Raleigh, Humber, Rudge, Elswick from the 30s to 60s. Need not be complete.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Wanted: project bike posted by Debbie on 10/22/2003 at 11:53:13 PM
I have a Robin Hood. The date on the hub is 12 69. It is red, a red/white brooks seat, 26 x 1 3/8 Dunlop Champion tires, 3 speed (cable) hasn't been ridden in years. Kept inside. Any interest?

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Wanted: project bike posted by John deegan on 10/27/2003 at 4:43:40 PM
Hi Debbie, I'm VERY interested in your Robin Hood. Is it a man's frame??? I'm trying to recapture a Red Robin I had as a kid. Please let me know. THANKS VERY MUCH!

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Interesting "Roadsters" posted by: Larry "Boneman" Bone on 10/22/2003 at 12:39:27 AM

Imported from India but assembled here. Different rear hub options. But I'm thinking they are rather pricey.

I may shoot them an inquiry just the same. First vendor that I've come across that's actually in the USA.



   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Interesting posted by MR on 10/22/2003 at 1:03:17 PM
Don't do it Larry!!!

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Interesting posted by Mike on 10/22/2003 at 5:10:56 PM
Getting a quote can't hurt. They're not as good as the original English-Made models I'm sure, but at least the vintage 3 speed style bike is still made. Raleigh in Holland has them, but they seem pretty hard to get ahold of in the US. These Indian-made models may, at least, provide people (the non purists or regular cyclists) with a chance to get the experience of riding a vintage 3 speed style cycle. I like the originals much better, but I don't know if it's wise to deride the Indian remakes just yet. There's potential to them.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Interesting posted by Bryan on 10/22/2003 at 7:16:36 PM
I'm very interested in these Indian bikes. I've seen a lot of negative comments on them here and elsewhere, so I am a little cautious. I would love to hear more if anyone has any experience with them.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Interesting posted by Lary "Boneman" Bone on 10/22/2003 at 11:35:26 PM
Well, I've been looking around at these Indian and Asian manufactured Roadsters for quite some time. I would not even pretend that they are on the same par with a true DL-1, but here's my thoughts on that.

1st off, once I do get a bone afide DL-1, I most certainly would not use it as a daily "beater" bike... BUT, I would like to have a 28" roadster to ride rail trails with, etc. And many of the rail trails around here are... well... original CINDERS.

NOT where I would want to ride a classic DL-1.

So, I'm looking for this type of alternative. At one time, one of the denizens of this forum had a lead on a supplier in Northern NJ that was selling these bikes on the cheap. But then, perhaps it's a case of get what you pay for. Who knows. Alas, the email address went south after a system cleanout.. .or something.

So, I'm just lookin' still. For that "alternative"... to have something VERY different sittin' in the bike rack at work... whilst I continue my search for that "right" DL-1.

So, not to worry... I'm really NOT utterly taking leave of my senses. (I got that outta the way years ago anyhow....)



   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Interesting posted by Warren on 10/23/2003 at 2:42:32 AM
Hey Larry, look at it the other way...your DL-1 can ride the cinders and crappy gravel trails for decades and survive better than knock-off roadsters riding riding smooth roads. They are bombproof and worth riding anywhere on any day.

These bikes are wonderful machines but they are not rare and shouldn't be treated as treasure. Use it as much as you can and pass it along to your kids someday, bragging about the tens of thousands of miles you've put on it.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Interesting posted by jack on 10/23/2003 at 3:24:21 AM
DL-1s may not be rare in the sense that they made many, but they are relatively rare in that decent ones are hard to find at a reasonable price. What's a reasonable price? One clue is the danish Raleigh website lists the classic DL-1-like for close to $1k! Thus I baby my DL-1s even though I know they can stand much abuse. As I told Larry, I'd like to see the Indian DL-1 in person to determine quality. If its 90% of the real thing, that would be close enough to a lot of folks.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Interesting posted by MR on 10/23/2003 at 11:59:26 AM
No No No No No!!!! DON'T DO IT!!!!
Waste of time and money bro' I have experience with Indian bikes, and they are not worth looking into. Think of a Huffy, or Roadmaster only made in a third world shit hole! Unless of course you can get one at cost, say the $15 they go for in India. They are probably worth $15
If you can find a Forever from China, and make just a few small mods, you would have a better, but still only passable mount.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Interesting posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 10/23/2003 at 11:04:58 PM
OK OK!!!! I will keep looking... not like it's riding season here anyhow! ('_^)



   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Interesting posted by David on 10/24/2003 at 12:20:21 AM
If the Indian roadsters are so damn bad, how can they be ridden reliably all over India, Afghanistan, southern Africa, etc. on terrible roads?

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Interesting posted by Edward in Vancouver on 10/24/2003 at 2:14:13 AM
"Export" quality is not necessarily the same as "domestic" quality. Me, I'm still thinking of the brand new Indian DL-1 clone I saw a year ago. The lugs had burrs on them that could do serious damage to the rider's "nether regions"...

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Interesting posted by sam on 10/24/2003 at 2:42:59 AM
I've had an Eastman for 20 years.It was OK to ride some but not anywhere near Raleigh quality or ride.At the price Yellowjersey is askin I'd look real hard for a used Raleigh befor shelling out over$300 for an Eastman.I bought a DL-1 earler this year for $100 ,sold it to a friend for what I had in it.Bulding up a special 28 at present.28s just give a good ride.BTW Eastmans ,Heros ,And Benottos sell for about $100 new in Mexico.---sam

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Interesting posted by jack on 10/24/2003 at 7:22:53 AM
I agree that unless you can get an asian DL-1 clone for 100 bucks or less it's probably too much. Anybody who has purchased "average quality" tools or machinery made in China or India knows what to expect. The quality of that old English steel and chrome plate is difficult to beat. That's probably why they stopped making them, a new Sports today w/yesteryears quality would probably cost $500 or more. Lucky for us there's a few used still around, although I see less and less every year for more and more $.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Interesting posted by Jens K. Jensen on 10/24/2003 at 9:03:30 AM
You are discussing Indian roadsters compared to DL1.
What brands are they?
The reason why I ask is that I really want a classic Raleigh with 28 inch wheels.
Here in Denmark these Raleighs are still for sale - they are even in the 2003 catalouge. But I wonder if they really are the original Nottingham made frames.
They are nicely equipped with Brooks leathersaddles and so on.
Should I buy such one or should I find a 10-20 year old Raleigh and restore it?

Jens K. Jensen

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Interesting posted by MR on 10/24/2003 at 12:17:20 PM
You're talking about apples and oranges here. The Raleighs from Denmark, or The Netherlands are high quality mounts almost exacly the same if not better than the original Raleighs, yes I said better. The Indian "clones" only superficially resemble the original Raleighs, and then only from a distance. There may very well be some Indian brand that more closely copies the Raleigh quality-wise, but I have never seen one. I'd be damned before I'd pay $300 for one that's for dang sure bro'! I bought my NOS Raleigh DL-1 for only $400, and You can often find good ones for less.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Interesting posted by MR on 10/24/2003 at 2:26:12 PM
They are not. There are lots of them around because when you only bring in a couple of hundred dollars a year, that is all you can afford. Bike frames, even crappy ones are so well designed to take a lot of stress that even REALLY crappy ones can handle a lot of weight. You see Indian, African and Chinese people with enormous loads piled on to their imitation Raleighs. However, I doubt if you can really call them reliable.
By the way, has anyone ever bothered to take a peek into the seat tube of their DL-1 and see the jolly big seam that runs down it? Or the seam in the bottom bracket shell? Now, I'm not bad mouthing the DL-1, God knows I love mine, but really we're not talking high tech here at all. The bloody Indians ought to be able to copy the bike better than they do.
I had a Forever for a while, and I can state that although it was far from trouble free, it was scads better made than my Indian Roadmaster. I rather enjoyed riding and owning the Forever(beautiful silk screened paint), but the Roadmaster, and the Avon, I had were almost total JUNK. As a matter of fact I threw away the Avon, and God help the piker that dug it out of my trash! I gave away the Roadmaster after I fixed a few things. I'd never give away my Raleigh!

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Interesting posted by P.C. Kohler on 10/25/2003 at 12:18:37 AM
Why on earth would anyone even want a Chinese or Indian made DL-1 clone when the real things are plentiful. Anyone who is having a hard time finding one isn't looking very hard. And to suggest the prices are high is just nonsense. I paid $378 for my new DL-1 in 1978 folks!! Not too long along an absolutely immaculate 1970 matched gents and ladies pair went for $450 or something on eBay.

And these are just the ones on eBay USA. There are dozens of roadsters sold on eBay UK for less than $50. The seller doesn't want to ship to the US? Big deal. Find a cycle shop near where the seller is and arrange shipment through them. Be creative!

But buy one of these Third World knock-offs? Now that's being desparate. I guarantee any Indian would pay more for a real British made DL-1 than some of you... if he could get one.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Interesting posted by John on 10/26/2003 at 11:13:41 PM
I have a Rudge Sportster, Sturmey-Archer brakes, magneto light system. I am thinking of selling. It is circa 1940. Brought to Cleveland from Scotland with an immigrant boy during the war. Is this the type of restoration project you seek?

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Interesting posted by Edward in Vancouver on 10/27/2003 at 3:27:48 AM
In regards to MR's question about peeking down the seat tube of a Raleigh, I did-, well,kind of. Almost three years ago I made a very thought over decision to re-build a '54 Superbe. After investing serious money into a FG hub and re-chroming the parts I was ready for painting. I stripped the frame myself before bringing it in to the painter's. But, there were funnly little stripes running down the main tubes. Now, I wasn't expecting Reynolds 531, but I wasn't expecting seamed and annealed 'high end gas pipe" either. But I love my bike! In regards to "eastern" bikes, I think it was Michelangelo(spelling?) who said "God is in the details". And details like burrs on lugs, brakes that seem to be stamped out of biscuit tins, threading on bolts that is very crude, rough, and ready to shake off in the first block ridden, make all the difference in the world.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Interesting posted by MR on 10/27/2003 at 3:56:24 PM
I wouldn,t call it "water pipe" because it was purpose made to be bicycle tubing, however it is pretty cheap stuff. Cheap stuff can be engineered quite well though, case in point the Wright Flyer made of wood, and Linen :-)
Did you know that good steel tubing, seamed or not has roughly the same bending strength, and characteristics? Assuming it is quality steel and all measurments are equal I mean?

MISC:   Interesting question... posted by: Rif on 10/21/2003 at 4:55:44 PM
An interesting question came up the other day and made me curious.
What is the definition of a roadster? I mean what makes it a roadster over a lightweight?
Specifically in antique bike terms. Many manufacturers made both these type bikes but what differentiates one from the other?
Is it the bars? seat? wheels? tubing? what?
I'd like to be able to answer this question for this fella' and would like to know myself for future reference...
Thanks all,

   RE:MISC:   Interesting question... posted by David Poston on 10/21/2003 at 10:05:07 PM

I think it's a combination of factors. I think "roadster" is a generic term applied to a class of bicycles; it's not a specific model, per se. Typically, you will find slack seat tube angles (ala Raleigh DL-1), usually 28" wheels, rod brake handlebars, heavily sprung saddle, etc. Though this forum deals with "English roadsters," we actually cover the gamut from 28" wheel single speed, slack seat-tube, rod brakes, sit-and-beg bikes to English lightweights, and sometimes even Raleigh Choppers (dread the thought, no offense to Chopper owners)...A roadster, though, in the strict sense of the term, should be restricted to such bikes as Raleigh DL-1's, Dawns, etc. I'm not sure how to classify Raleigh "Sports" bikes, as they were originally called "Sports light roadsters."


   RE:RE:MISC:   Interesting question... posted by Rif on 10/22/2003 at 4:26:13 PM
Thank you kindly for the response.

   RE:MISC:   Interesting question... posted by CatfoodRob on 10/22/2003 at 7:42:09 PM
An I`LL ignore the Chopper comment... :)

   RE:RE:MISC:   Interesting question... posted by P.C. Kohler on 10/22/2003 at 8:32:05 PM
It's always a minefield defining anything like this. On this site I think it's fair to say that if it's Made in England (or indeed the Empire), has hub gears instead of derailleurs, or no gears, it's a "Roadster". My Clubman(s) are proper "Vintage Lightweights" of the highest order, but no one talks about them on the "other" site here. Technically, roadsters were the rod-braked easy-angled machines. David is right about the "Sports"; it sure wasn't considered a roadster when new but a lithe, sporty little number. Indeed it was consider a "lightweight" or, heaven offend, an "English Racer" (well at least in a country where everyone was used to balloon tyred, iron pipe coaster bikes.

As for "Choppers", all I can say is that I wish we roadster types were one-tenth as organised as the folks into them. They have web sites, reproduction transfers, paint matches and we are still arguing about grips!

P.C. Kohler

   RE:MISC:   Interesting question... posted by sam on 10/23/2003 at 1:48:25 AM
My Definition--Dimond frame bike built for heavy use.Double stright bars can also be included even though they are truss frames.Roadsters do not include humpbacks,motobikes(bikes that look like a motorcycle but no motor)Track bikes,path bikes,or raceing bikes.And yes we do talk of these other styles at times,and it's right we should.---sam

   RE:MISC:   Interesting question... posted by sam on 10/23/2003 at 1:49:12 AM
My Definition--Dimond frame bike built for heavy use.Double stright bars can also be included even though they are truss frames.Roadsters do not include humpbacks,motobikes(bikes that look like a motorcycle but no motor)Track bikes,path bikes,or raceing bikes.And yes we do talk of these other styles at times,and it's right we should.---sam

   RE:RE:RE:MISC: Interesting question... posted by Warren on 10/23/2003 at 2:45:36 AM
Many early "Sports" models had similar slack angles, chaincases and rod brakes. My early 50's Hercules is just such a's a roadster thru and thru.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Interesting question... posted by Dennis Savage on 10/23/2003 at 3:52:50 AM
There is a lot more stuff for choppers because making them period correct is what collecting them is about. They don't ride them for tranportation. Big deal if I have incorrect cables and grips and have a replacement french rigida rim on an english 3 speed. It rides fine and that is what it is about.
ok then... Dennis

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh folder headset question posted by: Robert on 10/21/2003 at 3:25:51 PM
A bit off topic but, can someone run me thru what is necessary to replace the headset on a Raleigh folder? I understand that they have some kind of bushing arrangement and would want ot change to conventional bearing setup.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh folder headset question posted by Dick in FL on 10/21/2003 at 5:42:25 PM
Perhaps I don't quite understand your question, but the Raleigh Twenty folder *does* have bearings in the headset. They are loose and easily spill onto the floor whenever I attempt to repack them. As I recall, there are only lower bearings. The top is simply a bushing. Light bulb on!!!! Is this what you meant?

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh folder headset question posted by Robert on 10/21/2003 at 7:48:57 PM
Yes, that is exactly what I meant. I had heard they had a bushing and would prefer , if possible, to set it up with bearings top and bottom.
So, what is involved to do this , or is it overkill to do so???


   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh folder headset question posted by Dick in FL on 10/21/2003 at 9:05:10 PM
The first time I opened my Twenty's headset, I was, like you, dismayed at the 'economical' use of bearings. However, as I became more familiar with the overall design and performance, I decided to defer to the engineering judgement of the very talented man responsible for the Twenty. Only the lower bearing takes the weight; the upper bushing merely transmits small lateral (transverse) loads.
PS: 35 years ago I acquired a Raleigh RSW16 to lug around in a Cessna 150. It was a different animal ... probably designed by a committee unfamiliar with human anatomy. Trust the Twenty's fine reputation. Ride it a while to ascertain whether or not the designer erred.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh folder headset question posted by Stacey on 10/22/2003 at 10:48:11 AM

Hop over to , find your way to his "Raleigh Twenty" section. In there you'll find an indepth article on what is necessary to do this. I'm thinking of going that route on my Folding Twenty Hot Rod project.

Good luck, Stacey

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh folder headset question posted by David on 10/22/2003 at 2:54:38 PM
But the nylon bushing at the top seems JUST sticky enough to make the steering annoying. You can't ride it no-hands. I feel like I'm always overcontrolling mine. I can ride my Sports blissfully no-hands down the steepest hill. The Twenty gets twitchier and twitchier at speed.

AGE / VALUE:   DL-1 Questions posted by: jack on 10/21/2003 at 10:05:05 AM
Does anybody know of a source for stepped nuts (S31?) used on both fr and rr rod brake linkage (they are the nuts for pivot bolts). If they are overtighted the thin step gets easily squashed.

Also, on '70s-80's DL-1, do rr fender stays connect to rr axle or to rr triangle bolts. I've seen them both ways and either way seems to work?


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   DL-1 Questions posted by Jacob on 10/21/2003 at 12:01:32 PM
Hi Jack
Sorry, no surplus of stepped nuts here. I agree, that the bolts and nuts for rod brake linkage are some of the more critical parts, when you are working on (in my case) Raleighs. In my part of the world these small parts will often be ruined and maybe impossible to take apart because of rust.

About rear fender stays: As you point out, both ways of connecting will work. The standard from the factory (at least here in Denmark) was (and is) that the fender stays connect to the axle, This is because all Raleigh roadsters here are fitted with a rack as standard, and the rack connect to the triangle bolts, and I guess that the bolts are just not long enough for both the fender stays and the rack stays.
On one of my Tourist de Luxe's (DL1) I have taken away the rack and connected the fender stays to the triangle bolts, This was to make more clearance under the fender because I wanted to fit a bottle generator to the seatstay, so it could be driven by the rearwheel (I consider this better than using the frontwheel).
But in general I consider using the axle for the fender stays as the most neat solution.

Take care
Jacob, Denmark

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   DL-1 Questions posted by Kim on 10/21/2003 at 3:28:01 PM
They sell them right here. Click on "Parts For Sale" at the top of this page, and then click on "English bikes"

   RE:AGE / VALUE: DL-1 Questions posted by jack on 10/22/2003 at 5:18:51 AM
Yes, the stepped nut and bolt are available if you buy a "linkage" that costs $15. Since I just need a nut, I did a simple fix. Since the nut was compressed causing binding when snugged-up, I loosened to best fit then used locktite to secure the nut.

Interesting that apparently some rack stays attach to the rear triangle bolts? I've only seen two DL-1s with what look like original rear racks and the stays are short and attach with brackets halfway down the seatstay. Are both arrangements "correct"? I assumed nothing was designed to attach to the rear triangle bolts unless longer bolts are used. The stock bolts barely protrude beyond the threads and I would not want to compromise this critical juncture.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: DL-1 Questions posted by Jacob on 10/22/2003 at 12:13:35 PM
Take a look at - go to "voksencykler" and then Raleigh. Here you can see the rack connected to the triangle bolts. This is a danish produced rack, I guess.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: DL-1 Questions posted by Edward in Vancouver on 10/24/2003 at 2:19:24 AM
Stepped nuts? I don't buy them, I make them. Mount an electric hand drill in a vice and put a nut in the chuck. With a spark-plug file, create your own stepped nut.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   FOR SALE: 16.5" Raleigh Space Rider posted by: Tom on 10/20/2003 at 7:05:29 PM
Raleigh Space Rider, for a small lady. Good condition, rides well. Leather Brooks saddle. Looks good. pics at
best offer
Boston metro

FOR SALE:   Dayton(Ohio built) posted by: paul on 10/20/2003 at 2:28:28 PM
Ladies' roadster WWII era, "victory" "lightweight" style, EA-1 tire size, black frame, red accents on head tube, cream wheels with red pinstriping, inch pitch drive, blackout coaster brake hub, unrestored but use and drive as found, winter price $90 you pick up southern New England. Thanks for looking, Paul

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Apollo Cycle Co., Birmingham posted by: Tony Wade on 10/20/2003 at 12:04:13 PM
This is my input on the bicycle that seems to have never existed, even though I have owned one for nearly fifty-years. This bike was given to me as a Christmas Gift when I was eight or nine years old. I know why my parents picked an English Bike for me. I really wanted a Black Phantom. But to them, it was proper for an English Lad to have an English Bike regardless of living in the States. However, I have no idea why they picked what they did instead of a Raleigh or a Hercules.

Anyhow, it is marked Apollo Cycle Co., Birmingham, England. Vintage 1954 or 55. The color is a very pretty, almost candy (it does have a silver under coat), medium blue. It has a Wright saddle, chrome fenders, and did have a S-A 3-speed hub. That, unfortunately, has been since changed to Shimano. Condition wise, it needs very little (other than the hub, and some non- Whitworth fasteners) to restore it. Which is what I am in the process of doing now. Basically, a good clean, correct grips, a new pump (chrome also), and fresh chain. I even have the two original stamped steel "spanners".

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Apollo Cycle Co., Birmingham posted by Tim on 10/20/2003 at 3:47:54 PM
The Apollo Cycle works was located behind the fire station on the road to Aston in Birmingham. I saw an old photo of it in the VCC magazine way back. There are a few Apollos around still in the Midlands.