|My brother works at Sudeley Castle and found a Sunbeam with no wheels in a skip there. I've told him to rescue it. More news later.|
If you come across any good used Sunbeam GEARCASES, I will pay top dollars. I need a good used Sunbeam gearcase for a c. 1920s-30s Sunbeam 26" roadster.
If you come across any good used Sunbeam GEARCASES, I will pay top dollars. I need a good used Sunbeam gearcase for a c. 1920s-30s Sunbeam 26" roadster.
|Neat old Humber on Ebay.Item # 3640205901. Good winter project for somebody.|
| I have 2 Sturmey Archer Dyno front hubs available for sale. Both on 26" wheels from thew 1950's. They appear to be two different styles or versions. One is all chrome and the other has a brown face. I really do not know much about them. I am hoping someone here knows. The chrome one has a much better raised dull center rim. Both hubs have original dirt but will clean up nicely. Rear 3 speed wheels also avialable. prices = $60 for the chrome hub/wheel and $50 for the Brown hub/wheel. Shipping additional, $8-15 per, estimated in the U.S. Email if you are interested. email@example.com|
Please copy and paste the following urls for pictures:
|email me please. I've got some pics for you!|
| A nice Raleigh ladies frame on e-bay, looks pre-war:|
Of course, this is NOT a DL-1, but I'd like to hear some guesses as to the true model. A Popular, perhaps?
| Oh, I forgot to add--how come everyone on this list is only interested in men's frames, not the ladies' ones? The ladies' frames, in my mind, are also to be coveted. That lovely curved top tube...there is nothing like it. I, for one, will not be ashamed of mounting my ladies New Hudson roadster when it finally gets put back together. I mean, sure, we all would rather be riding a men's frame any day, but we must consider the fact that we live in a world where many passers-by would hardly know the difference. They would, however, realise that it is something grand, something old. I think the effort is still worthwhile to save and restore these things before they end up in the dumpster.|
|The taller men's frames, 23", are just barely big enough for many of us. The women's frames are smaller.|
| I know of a bicycle shop in NY State that has two of them. The owner, a young chap, had no clue really as to what they are. He keeps one out in the showroom as an example of an "Antique". The other languishes in the back of the shop collecting dust. I dated them for him (1971). He told me that two little old ladies just brought them in for him to have... about a year ago.|
I told him that I would be back to harass him into selling me one of them. He did not seem averse to the idea... alas, I've not had the opportunity... but... soon.
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| We've been using this 1952 Raleigh for errands but now it's placed on our site for sale. It has a classic look (black paint, enclosed chaincase) but is upgraded to "modern" 1969 running gear. Have a look by clicking on "Bicycles For Sale" at the top of this page.|
|While looking at my ladies DL-1 fork, I glanced at the Gent's DL-1 fork and noticed a big difference. The Gent's fork is quite a bit more sweeping. I took a carpenter's square and measured the distance from an imaginary line running thru the center of the head tube to center of front hub (trail). The results confirmed my observations. Gent's: 4-3/4" Ladies: 3-1/8". Why such a large difference when I would have assumed both models would have identical forks with respect to trail? Both models are late '70's and forks appear original and not bent. Can anyone out there confirm my measurements?|
|What I meant by confirm my measurements is to measure the trail on your DL-1. I'm especially interested in the Women's frame since the short trail on mine seems too short, at least in comparison to the Men's frame. It would also be interesting if anyone has this dimension documented in literature and could let me know|
| I think I concluded this, as well, by casual observation, but I haven't yet tried measuring the forks on my DL-1 to confirm this. I think the ladies head tube might be more steep and not so "relaxed" like the gents model. The ladies head tube, as you will notice is also a bit longer and taller than the gents.|
|Thanks for the response David. Yes the head tube is longer on the women's model for the same size frame and this may have some bearing. I measured the head tube/downtube angle of both models and they are identical. I'm starting to conclude that the longer head tube increases the effective rake which is then cancelled by the shorter trail of the women's model forks. If this is true, its an interesting tidbit for those who are contemplating fork replacement on their DL-1s.|
|A head tube can stretch from here to the moon and not affect the rake or trail.|
| What have you guys done to improve the braking performance of your|
bikes in the rain? I've installed those ugly orange pads to my bikes,
but the results were disappointing. I'm having an aluminium rimmed
front wheel made for one of my bikes, but there are no 40 hole alu
rims for the rear.
Does anyone have a 36 hole 3 speed sheel they want to get rid of or
the whole hub? Has anyone tried converting their bikes to run on SA
drum brake hubs, the what Pashely uses in it's bikes? I really wish
someone would make some shiny aluminium rims with 32 and 40 holes.
|Sun now makes 40-h CR18s for 26 1 /38s, the shop I work at just got one in. Ask your LBS to get them from QBP.|
|S/A drum brakes work pretty good in the rain, and the AB (3 spd w/brake) model is obtainable, the front drums are obtainable as well. Now, "obtainable" doesn't mean that your LBS will have them sitting on a shelf, it'll take some doing to obtain them. Just remember that the cavity for the dyno-hub in boths hubs is the exact same dimension as for brake drums. This means you can pop in the guts of any S/A drum brake, regardless of age, into the cavity of any AG, FG, or GH6 hub. I've done two conversions so far, an FG to brake, and a GH6 to a brake, and they work very well.|
| Shimano makes a roller/cam front brake that is immune to water and works well under all conditions. It is very smooth and progresive. Lockup is easy but perfectly controlable. I have the rear brake on my cruiser along with the 7 speed hub and recommend it highly. |
| Greetings. |
I've put nearly 2000 miles on my dl-1 in New York City traffic. Everyday at least 11+ miles. I use a S/A coaster brake set=up and find that it does just what I need. You just have to find one in the 40 hole variety. I had an unhappy accident with a truck in the rain before I switched out. Ouch.
Now it is right as ... rain.
|Hi all. I've located a Sturmey-Archer 3 speed hub. This hub has the built in dyno generator. AG series. Owner says everything works with good chrome.What $ ammount should I pay for this? Thanks, Kevin|
|$25 would be a good price,I think that is what I last paid.But Dynos are in demand so price veries.---sam|
|Hi Sam. I like these SA hubs alot though I wish I knew about them. Thanks once again for the advice./ Kevin|
|Does anyone out there know where I can find decals or reproductions of decals for a 1965 Dunelt and a 1966 Robin Hood? I am in the process of trying to restore both, and would like to get them at least looking as much like they did originally as I can. They are both 26" men's frames. Let me also just add that I have found many of the restoraton tips here very helpful. Thanks!|
|My 80 yr old father has asked me to help him find a peaked rear fender for his Circa 1941 Hercules Sport 2-Speed. He purchased the bike new and was drafted into WWII and when he returned the rear fender was missing. I still have my Circa 1955 Hercules 3-Speed and we both ride our bikes. Can anyone help us out? JohnH|
|I've been looking for info about the Hercules sport model bicycle. Mine has the peaked fenders (one dented) with dropped handle bars on horizontal post that allows them to be silde closer or further away from the rider. The bike seems to be a single speed but it has a geared hub on both the chain side and opposite side of the rear hub. I was wondering the year of this bike and it's popularity or collectibility. Thanks|
|I just picked up 4 Raleigh bikes from my friends Grandfather's house he been storing. Two old frames, 1 Robinhood, and 1 with all Raleigh parts but with a German name on it "Junker"(came from Germany). The Junker has the enclosed generator in the front hub, and enclosed chainguard. Also 4 extra Sturmey archer rear hubs. Is there a site or listing where I can compare the serial numbers and obtain the dates they were made? The Robinhood and Junker are in 9/10 condition.|
| You could start by looking here:|
Sounds like a great find! "Junker" eh? I guess I will have to start referring to my "jukers" as something else! ;-)
|I guess I now have my winter projects lined up. I also picked a girls frame, it looks like a balooner frame but with a head badge "Viscount". It has a airplane flying over a backdrop of city buildings. It is still a mystery yet. Thanks|
|By the way that's pronounced "yoonker" not like junk-er|
| Precisely. Am familiar with the pronunciation. Still, it's an interesting brand to put on a bike. Kind of like when Chevrolet made a big blunder trying to sell the Nova in Mexico. No va translates as "does not go".|
| Hello all. I've been lurking here some time, and really enjoy reading the various posts. I doubt any of my bikes would be considered "classic", but hey, that doesn't stop me liking classic bikes, and the techniques are of use anyway! By the way, I refuse to touch anything that even LOOKS like a mountain bike. Does that mean I ride classic bikes?|
Anyway, I have a modern bike (modern by the standards I aspire to, that is: it's about 20 years old), in need of restoration. I intend to "back date" it, so it looks older than it really is. This includes needing to touch up some chrome. Does anyone know of a product in Britain, say a paste or something, that I can use to partially replate some parts? If my web searches are anything to go by, there appears to be something in America but not in Britain.
Thanks all. Keep up the good work. Maybe one day I'll get my dad's old Sun bike...
| Ah the subject of chrome plateing. It is quite a complex procedure. Chrome itself is a transparent coating, the silver colour being the base layer. Sometimes this is zinc sometimes nickle. Usually on top of copper in good quality plate jobs. There are many people who will wax lyrical about Raleigh chrome and Rhodesian Chrome etc. but if you consider that it is a chemical process then the content of the bath is more important. There are several companies that plate shop fittings and household goods which look attractive. Unfortunately this type of plate will corrode in weeks if exposed to the weather. If you have rust areas breaking through then you probably need to re-chrome the component. It is not that expensive if you can find a shop that handles small mixed batches. There is a kit you can buy which uses a copper wire brush, a car battery and various really nasty chemicals to achieve a fair touch up but it is still rough to the touch. I remeber buying it from a MAil Order Company and it was intended to be used to restore electro-plated, (EPNS) type antiques. After a lot of messing about I finaly got a reasonable result. I now just save up all my bits and pieces till I have about a kilo or so and then take to my local plating shop. £30 is all it costs me. It pays to shop around for prices though as they vary by 500%! Me, I prefer nickle plate as it is more resiliant but does not shine so much.|
I hope this helps.
|"Chrome itself is a transparent coating, the silver colour being the base layer" WHAT??? Where did that information come from???? I have personally seen chrome plating done, and I can state that the chrome was a solid metalic substance that wasn't in any way transparent. I am TOTALLY confused now.|
| "There is a kit you can buy which uses a copper wire brush, a car battery and various really nasty chemicals to achieve a fair touch up but it is still rough to the touch. I remeber buying it from a MAil Order Company and it was intended to be used to restore electro-plated, (EPNS) type antiques. After a lot of messing about I finaly got a reasonable result".|
This sounds good enough for me. I only want to "pretty up" a functional lamp bracket, that kind of thing. Do you have a product name and/or supplier, please?
| Phil, before you buy a kit, take the parts you want plated to a Chrome plater an ask for an estimate. Much of the cost will be attributed to the polishing of the part prior to plating. It's just like painting over a scratched and chippped door, the scratches will show through the paint when the paint dries. |
Ask for an estimate with polishing and without, then make your decision. You can easily do the polishing with a Dremel tool, or a drill mounted in a vice. Even though those kits work, they include some very nasty chemicals and you'll be stuck with the problem of how to properly dispose of them afterwards.
| There are several methods of chrome plate application. The cheap one I mentioned, used on shop fittings and houshold ggods is a one shot bath that deposits a mixture of chemicals onto the surface of the metal. It is no good for bicycle components as it will peel off in strips if exposed to water. The components that are replated for me first go into a Drag-out bath to rempve the residual remains of all the old chrome and base layers. When it is totaly clean and free from surface impurities, it has a few microns of copper plated on, then nickle or cupra-nickle or zinc then chromed. It then goes to a stabilizing bath and then finished in a drying area.|
The EPNS kit I refered to was bought from an advert in a newspaper a couple of years ago. I do not remember the name but they are still out there somewhere or something like. Remember, EPNS stands for Electro-plated Nickle Silver and is NOT chrome. It looks OK though.
| Look for a copy of the Shotgun News. it may even be online . there is a seller in there that sells just what you are describing. My memory is telling me Texas Platers is the vendors name. |
They sell a kit for doing small parts . Even gold plating i think. I have no experience with using it though.
| Here is a site that sells kits etc. http://www.caswellplating.com/can_europe.html?PHPSESSID=bc6340fb449857ca9fae433b126867ff|
It does not look cheap though.
|I've got an old (70's) Witcomb Lightweight tandem. It's got full 6spd Campagnolo Record gears, old rusting cranks and wheels that, along with the stem, seatpost and bars really need replacing. It's also got real Brooks leather saddles. It's made of various steels apparently, and is one of the rarer UK made models. I've been told it could be worth something. If it is, how much is it worth please? Thanks.|
|Without a list of components, frame sizes, photos, location, etc. no one can appraise this. It's worth something, all right, but no one knows how much!|
| That's beautiful. I've always wanted a diesel powered bike.. really. |
|dont you just love those handlebars.that is one neat looking bike,by the way what sort of handlebars are they?|
|They look like standard North Roads inverted.|
|I've seen some similar looking handle bars on pre-war raleighs, I don't know if those were inverted handle bars or a different type, but they looked nice. I believe there are a few old Raleigh ads on rollbritannia.com showing this type of handle bar.|