| There's a 1946, mentioned in the next string of posts, and we just posted an original 1948 men's rod brake roadster on Ebay. No Reserve. Starting at $295 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2201092111 |
| Are you guys sure this is 1948?? She is a 22" frame and has a bolted backstay and curved DL-1 mudguards. The last time this was made like this was 1945-46 I believe. And what are the details on the dynohub? Sure doesn't look like a 6 v. GH6 to me but either a 12 v. or 8 v. as the headlamp is the pre-war style as well. I own a 1948 (AW dated March 48) Dawn and she has the newer style mudguards, brazed on backstays and is 23". Most intriguing and yes a bumper crop of 1940s Raleighs indeed! P.C. Kohler |
| Hmmm. You've got me thinking now. The hubs are undated. The owner bought it brand new in 1948 in Manchester, New Hampshire, USA, and the lug where the seat tube and top tube meet has a serial number and "1948" stamping. -Vin |
| This Raleigh on ebay may bring a new record price for old roadsters. It is one very nice bike. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3635004935&category=2904&rd=1 |
| Even though the seller misidentified it (she's a Sports Superbe NOT a Dawn), this is a very interesting machine in as close to mint shape as one would wish. To me, the most intriguing aspect is that she may well be fitted with the shortlived Sturmey-Archer accumulator unit (what looks like a battery tube is actually a car type wet cell battery that is recharged whilst cycling during the day). I rather doubt this is still function, the instructions for its maintenance are daunting! But still it would be great to see. P.C. Kohler |
| Has anyone got a photo of what an origional Phillips (28" rear, 20" front?) delivery Bike looks like. Just got hold of one, it has twin top tubes, but not the origional wheels and cranks. Looking to find out what needs fixing. Any help greatly welcomed. Mike |
| Pictures of old Phillips bikes are impossable to come across, except for this site, i have not found any of a Phillips bike, letalone one of a Nottingham like mine. |
| You did say old,right? http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-7/273894/phillipscycletruck0001.JPG |
| You did say old,right? http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-7/273894/phillipscycletruck0001.JPG |
| Can anyone here enlighten me as to the history of Raleigh "LTD" model circa early 1960's? Thanks. |
| Early 60s? I think Ward the LTD-3 is early 70s and was the replacement for the defunct Robin Hood and other "economy" brands in the TI-Raleigh empire. By the early 70s it was kinda obvious there was simply no point in deluting the already dimenishing British cycle pot with so many brands which were bogus to begin with. Regardless of name, it all came out of Lenton Blvd. and since the Raleigh name was the single most famous name in cycling, it made sense to simply market everything under that name. Thus the LTD-3 was "born" or shall I say your basic Robin Hood/Sunbeam/Hercules/Phillips was morphed into a LTD-3. Same garish red and blues (you could always tell low-end Nottingham bikes by these shades!) just a new badge and transfers. My brother got a NEW LTD-3 I recall (as the older brother of course I never, ever got a new bike!), but I viewed it with considerable contempt. That sicky blue and cheesy transfers didn't hold a candle to my used but ever so much superior Carmine Red '62 Sports! Not sibling rivalry of course, just the specs! P.C. Kohler |
| The younger brother is supposed to inherit the older brother's once new bike!LOL Thanks for the LTD info. |
| P.C., I thought of what you said the other day up in this guys garage loft with the flashlights and spotty light fixtures. I made my way thru the jungle of vintage car parts and bikes and antiques and up the narrow stairs and being careful not to stand up and bean myself into unconsciousness. There is this one bike. Yes, common Raleigh badged bike nothing special. Not more than 50.00 is it worth. Too many names, on colors that were over used. Yes, not something that is gonna pay bills for months at a time. No, that's already loaded in the truck. But still, the badge on this bike was so cool! The whole thing is so magical and cool and so I disagree in part with what you said. I still love British bicycles, every one, all of them! Can't bear to not have room for it and it waits for me still where I will bring it back next time and dispite missing parts and faded paint I'll bring it back from the dead and scare up new tires for it and take it out and grin like a fool when I ride it. It's a name I never have heard of before but one look at the headset told me it was a Raleigh. Forgot what it said on it. Next time. Anyways.... What is a Schwinn Pullman, ladies bike with the non- skip tooth chain worth? Missing wheels but all there. small wheel with a Blue band Bendix two speed hub. rim is minor damaged. I can't forget it for parts next time. |
| HI. I am in search of 1972 Raleigh Sports decal set for mens 3 speed , bike is silver. Thanks you! |
| Hi, I came across another Raleigh Sprite 27 ten speed that someone had put out for the trash the other day. It's pretty rough overall but the frame, forks, and derailleurs, are near mint. The fenders, rims, crankset(Nervar), and handlebars are rusted beyond use. The rear hub is separated in to halves. The frame is too nice to toss, but I really don't think it's worth the search for new fenders and wheels? I was considering a set of Weinmann alloy rims with Normandy or S/A large flange hubs? I have also tossed aroud the idea either just building an AW or S5 equipped rear wheel? These also used a straighter handlebar than say a Sports model but, I do have a 26" Sports with a badly bent frame that could donate some parts. I would probably have to use some sort of replacement fenders since the original 27" Raleigh fenders have seen better days. I have a spare set of 32/40 Sprite hubs, the problem would be finding a set of nice 32/40 spoke hole rims to match if I were going to go original. I guess I'm only considering fixing this one since it's a large frame and and with good paint to boot. For some reason, only the fenders and rims rusted? The rear hub problem I've seen before. I have both a 46-49T crankset from a '63 Sprite and a single sprocket Raleigh "R" crankset to choose from, both in nice shape. I also have a mint set of wheels from a '71 Super Course which whould work well, (Weinmann alloys with Normandy large flange with a set of Michelin 27" x 1 1/4" skinwalls), that would work well. (I traded the Super Course years ago sans it's wheels in favor of a larger frame which ended up using a set of 700c wheels instead.) By the equipment on this one, I would guess it's probably an early 70's model, but like three other Sprites I have here, there is no sign of a serial number? Just an "X" on the lower side of the bottom bracket and no other markings anywhere else on the frame. I just figured that maybe someone here may have some input that may sway me in the correct direction on this one? Thanks, Joe |
| >I just figured that maybe someone here may have some input >that may sway me in the correct direction on this one? Careful Joe, we have a couple of "Sprite Assasins" that frequent the NG here. ;-) I kinda like the 3-speed idea myself. You may be able to find fenders here at Oldroads too! I personally like the Sprites with the 27" wheels. Well, perhaps that's nostalgia speaking as my very first "Roadster" (not to worry gang, using the term loosely) was a BRAND NEW Sprite 27 10-speed that I slaved for mowing lawns for two summers. Still.... the 3-speed idea, now that's kinda cool. Good luck! Boneman |
| I checked the list here at oldroads for fenders, but no luck, if I new I could match the paint, I could glass bead the originals and refinish them. That would leave only the rear fender decal to deal with. I just figured it probably isn't worth the effort for a 70's model Sprite? What would be worse, as far as a combo for this, having simply the wrong rims and hubs, or totaly changing the driveline in favor of an AW or S5 internal hub? I do have a set of early chrome 27" fenders that look nearly identical to the Sprite fenders in style, I also have a set of Honjo alloy fenders with the extended front fender to clear a front rack on a touring bike. I noticed something else about this Sprite, it is missing the normal "Made In England" decal on the frame? Where some of these made in Holland or elsewhere? That would maybe explain the lack of a serial number or any date codes. I have a Grand Prix that is made in Holland and it also has no sign of a serial number, but it states "Holland at the base of the seat post. Also another thought to the 3 speed conversion idea, going with an AW hub would also mean I would need to find a matching color chainguard since in it's 10 speed form it had none. As far as painting one, I would be back to the same point of missing decals and matching paint. The color I would need is a dark brown metalic. The frame on these Sprites looks to be the same as a Raleigh Record road bike, it uses a brazed on cable guide on the bottom bracket for the rear derailleur cable that would just sit idle with the AW hub in place. It also has a slug for locating the cable stop on the downtube or even a set of shifters if it were the case. THis particular one also has different decals from my other two, it has the "R" and two gold leaf ring stripes on the seat post tube, and "Sprite 27" on the down tube. The top tube is blank. The headbadge is the normal Nottingham version. There is a 2030 steel decla on the s/p as well. No other decals other than the "R" decals on each fork blade. I went to RetroRaleighs and going by the catalog pics, my fenders look more like those on the '77 Sprite, but the seat post decals look like those on the '68. None have the same downtube decals. I considered the fact that the fenders and wheels may have been changed since they were in so different a condition than the frame and fork, but the color is a dead match and there are no signs of it being apart before. I just figured it must have seen some riding down at the shore and was never washed down to remove the salt. It's just strange that the frame and fork survived so perfect and the fenders, wheels, and handlebars were so rusted? The fenders look like the rust came from under the paint though, since the undersides are clean. The handlebars look like they spent time at the bottom of the ocean, yet the headset is mint. It had an old Lucas cyclometer on it and it was still working when I took the bike apart that read "0074" miles on it. It also had a set of what looked to be original Raleigh Record tires, badly dryrotted but no tread wear. My guess is that it was parked years ago when the rear hub separated, and left to rot in some garage or storage shed. I had first spotted the brite gray grips sticking up in a trash and leaf pile out for the trash, at first glance, seeing the rusted bars and front fender, I almost left it but not being able to remove the grips, and the fact that stripping parts off it at someones trash pile probably wouldn't be too welcome an idea, I tossed it in the car to deal with at home. It wasn't until I took a beter look at it in some better light I realized it was a salvagable frame with some nice usable parts. If it wasn't for the fact that the rear hub was broken, it would have been ridable, and I didn't even notice the hub until I actually tried to pedal the bike with weight on it.The spokes were holding the hub in place even though the left flange had separated from the center part. Anyhow, I guess I just can't stand to see a bike that is still fixable just sit or go to waste, especially one with a large frame. |
| Sorry to be sort of tangential, But I have a '69 Robinhood with the same kind if rust damage you describe, the slight blistering of the frame paint with rust at the site. The handle bars are also rusted into oblivion. And on the fenders and chainguard top the rust has completely dislodged the paint. Any ideas of how to deal with this? The fenders are solid themselves, but is it wrong just to refinish them? I'd be w/o the rear badge, but It's going to be a rider. Any thoughts would be appreciated. |
| Hmmm... well, on the fender deal, my original Sprite 27 was gold in colour, but the fenders were kind of a matte black. So, perhaps that would be an option. I have three different Sprites here and would be more than happy to take some pics of certain details if you like. One of them is a white 5-speed and it has a chainguard. Derailleur gears as well... which I thought to be interesting. Later! Boneman |
| I have one or two NOS 32 hole 27 x 1 1/4" steel rims you can have for the cost of shipping. They have a little pitting on them, nothing that a bit of rubbing compound wouldn't clear up. |
| The offer on the rims is tempting, (Dale) but without a 40H match, I still wouldn't have a matched set. I am at this point, pretty much probably just going to go with the early set of alloy rims. Larry, about what year was the Sprite with the black fenders? And if you can recall were they round, peaked or flat topped? I was over at retroraleighs and there looks to have been several styles. I also couldn't tell by the catalog description if the '68 model (with the Sports type fenders) was a 26" or 27" wheel bike? I was digging through some of my spare parts and I did find a set of 36H Sturmey Archer alloy and steel large flange hubs that would go well on a Sprite. I just can't recall what they came from, their a steel centered hub with a 73 mm diameter flange. I don't remember removing them from any of my road bikes,and they certainly aren't from a Sports model. There spaced at 120 mm, so they are from a 5 or ten speed bike. Beth, as far as rust and what may cause it, it is usually from moisture or contact with something corrosive like salt. Mine is only rusted on the handlebars, rims and fenders with some on the crankset. The bars and rims look to be sort of a caustic type of rust, like the rust you see at the shore from salt. The fenders are a just surface rusted throught the paint, no blistering or peeling, just an obvious roughness to the surface coming through. The rims and bars are blistered, and peeling with a glassy bright orange color to the rust. What I found odd is that most likely the entire bike had too have been exposed to what ever the bars and rims were, but the frame and fork never rusted? Nor did the freewheel, chain, or derailleurs and neither of those were very well oiled or greasy. The fenders look like maybe they just were not primed or prepped right fromt the start. But British chrome usually survives quite well over the years. I have a '66 Robin Hood that has excellent chrome with no pitting at all, but it's paint is quite weathered looking with areas that show signs of either rust or paint crazing. It's decals have also just about disappeared over the last few years. All in all it's a still a great ride, I just started to do a complete disassemble, clean and relube on it. At the same time I'll try to revive the original paint the best I can. It's black so it also can also be touched up easily. As far as the Sprite, I guess I am leaning towards using the set of Weinmann Alloy wheels, from a '71 Super Course, along with a slightly earlier Raleigh 46/49T crankset, the original Huret Alvit derailleurs, a set of North Road bars from a Sports model, the original Brooks padded saddle, and that will only leave the fender situation to decide on as well as wether to use the stem from the Sports or to use the same long reach drop stem that it had with it's original style bars? |
| Sprite assisain? Oh yes, definitly. I have lost count. These are still easy prey at garage sales. Not like the famed rod brake stuff. That is non existent unless you venture into the internet. Yes, not a pretty sight if you like the Raleigh Sprite. Unless you say.... "It's not for sale!" Then I pass over you and leave you to enjoy your bike as God intended it. In one piece! If it's for sale? I swoop down with fangs out in the dead of night and with a flurry of tools I rip them apart! The top nut fits the Raleigh Chopper you know. Lots of good parts to be salvaged off of these. Mafac brakes! cotter pin nuts, Red r nuts. Pletscher racks! Can we say.... Parts bike? Yes, steel 27 inch rims. I hate them. I save them. I have a new one for this bike. I'll never use it! |
| I have what appears to be an early 50s roadster, but without the full chaincase. It is similar to a Sport or Sport Tourist, but unlike models in those years, mine is a single speed freewheel and not a 3-speed. The front fender is rounded off and not the tapered version. It also has rod brakes and 28" wheels. The serial number is 121829. Any help in identifying it? |
| Details...name of hubs, rims, tyres, seat, identifying marks on stems, crankarms, freewheel, pedals etc? This is the only way to nail it down. |
| No marks other than the serial number, plain gold "RALEIGH" decal on the chainguard, unmarked sprung seat, unmarked stem, plain hubs, 28x1.5 tires, steel wheels. If you will yield your email address, I will send pics. Thanks |
| Looks like a 1938-40 model to me, possibly a wartime one as well as the crank is blacked out. Does this have a headbadge (metal Heron)? If not, then she's pre-war. P.C. Kohler |
| There is no headbadge and there are no holes or outline indicating that there was ever one there at all. The cranks, bar and stem are all originally black. The rear seat stays are bolted together, not welded. P.C., are you fairly certain that this could this be pre-war? |
| Greetings -- It's 50-50 that Trophy Bikes will move to a nearby location in Center City Philadelphia--BUT one with less basement storage space than our current location. We have to be ready, so we're having a three day sale--not only of "normal" merchandise, but also basement oddities, wheels, frames, cranks, chaincases, chainguards, bikes, fenders, parts, hubs, rims, tires, tools, two BIG (3' by 8') illuminated RALEIGH signs, and much more. Lots of S/A parts and misc Raleigh stuff. 3 or 4 Brit-made, SCHWINN TOWN AND COUNTRY tandem frames/forks, ca 1940s? w/some wheels and parts for same, enough to make 1 to 3 tandems. Ten years of stuff needs to be sold way down... THIS IS IN ADDITION TO OUR 5th Annual FALL SALE, which will happen at the same time, and offer special prices on everything in the upstairs store. SALE STARTS November 7--THIS FRIDAY, 11AM SHARP at TROPHY BIKES, 311 MARKET STREET, Philadelphia PA 19106. Trophy will be open 9am to 9pm on saturday and 9 to 5 on sunday. STOP IN. SORRY, NO LIST--TOO MUCH TO LIST, MANY BITS AND PIECES.... Cash and Carry, thanks for reading... cheers, Michael McGettigan/trophy bikes/british bike weekend/the round up et al... |
| Greetings -- It's 50-50 that Trophy Bikes will move to a nearby location in Center City Philadelphia--BUT one with less basement storage space of our current location. We have to be ready, so we're having a three day sale--not only of "normal" merchandise, but also basement oddities, wheels, frames, cranks, chaincases, chainguards, bikes, fenders, parts, hubs, rims, tires, tools, two BIG (3' by 8') illuminated RALEIGH signs, and much more. Lots of S/A parts and misc Raleigh stuff. 3 or 4 Brit-made, SCHWINN TOWN AND COUNTRY tandem frames/forks, ca 1940s? w/some wheels and parts for same, enough to make 1 to 3 tandems. Ten years of stuff needs to be sold way down... THIS IS IN ADDITION TO OUR 5th Annual FALL SALE, which will happen at the same time, and offer special prices on everything in the upstairs store. SALE STARTS November 7--THIS FRIDAY, 11AM SHARP at TROPHY BIKES, 311 MARKET STREET, Philadelphia PA 19106. Trophy will be open 9am to 9pm on saturday and 9 to 5 on sunday. STOP IN. SORRY, NO LIST--TOO MUCH TO LIST, MANY BITS AND PIECES.... Cash and Carry, thanks for reading... cheers, Michael McGettigan/trophy bikes/british bike weekend/the round up et al... |
| Comparing older (pre-60's) DL-1s with newer ones I see 2 main changes. Relatively minor is elimination of peaked, pointed, ship's prow? front fender even though Sports/Superbe continued with this. Of greater interest is change in rear dropout from front to rear opening a la track bike. Can someone tell me approximately what year these changes occured? It was probably sometime between 1955 and 1975. Speaking of track bike, I recently took a stripped DL-1 frame into the shop to have the crank cotters pressed out and the kid at the counter says "track frame?". I got a kick out of that! |
| I have an early 50s model and it has adjustable horizontal rear dropouts just like a track frame. What has puzzled me though is that my front fender is rounded off in the front and predates the "ships prow", but if you view the 1951 catalogue (see RetroRaleighs), many of the models have that peaked tapered fender. So, I really don't know when that style emerged. |
| Interesting bd, the '53 on ebay does not have the "track" dropouts but your "early '50s" does. Does this mean that the change occurred in the early 50's? |
| I really can't say for sure. All I know is that I have dated mine to be a '50 or a '51 and other than the horizontal D/O, it is a roadster in every way. The emergence of the peaked fender is another mystery. As a new collector, I would hope that other Raleigh guys would join in this discussion to help clarify this. |
| Hmmm... methinks some confusion is creeping into all this!! The essential thing to remember is that just because you see a bicycle in the Raleigh catalogue (say 1951) that's black and has rod brakes doesn't mean it's what Americans call a "DL-1". The Raleigh no. 1 Popular, Tourist etc. of the 1951 has 28" wheels. That's what you mean by a "DL-1". It ALWAYS had what are referred to as "horizontal" drop-outs with chain adjusters. And it NEVER had the "spear-point" type narrow mudguards with the bullet thingy in front. NEVER. At least Raleighs. Some time ago this site had a nice exchange on the changes of the DL-1 at least in 60s and 70s. They were MINOR. The mudguards changed to a more deep rounded section c. 1972 for example. The basic frame was unchanged. Raleigh never made a 28" wheel machine with the patent Raleigh drop-outs. Now, those "other" rod-braked machines you see with the spearpoint mudguards and the Raleigh patent drop-outs are NOT, repeat NOT "DL-1s" nor Populars or whatever. They are DAWNS. Completely different animal. Low bottom bracket, different frame geometry. More like a Sports with rod brakes. These had the rounded mudguards before the Second World War and came in at least three different varieties. The easiest way to keep all this straight is to segregate things by wheel size. 28" in a Raleigh catalogue is a DL-1 in all its myriad forms and models. 26" is a Dawn in all its myriad forms as long as it has rod-brakes. P.C. Kohler |
| This might be a good buy for someone near Harrisburg (the seller wants $150 to ship it!!). Appears very nice; 23" frame, good saddle, chaincase, rod brakes. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewItem&item=2200288839 |
| I saw this earlier and thought it was rather nice. I'm not too far from Harrisburg, but... 24" wheels? Hard to tell from the pics. Still, a very nice example. Later! Boneman |
| It's obvious they're normal Sports (26 x 1 3/8) wheels. The guy selling it is fairly clueless, I expect that he measured the wheels somehow and got 24. |
| I doubt the reserve on this bike is cheap. This guy deals in all kinds of vintage items and probably thinks this bike is worth a fortune. It's about ten minutes from my house so I may go and check it out this week. There's a newer (1971?) DL-1 listed this week that's about 15 minutes in the other direction...with a starting bid of $400. Are these bikes really worth that much? |
| We'll see how much they turn out to be worth! (The guy with the Sports said his reserve was "well below retail," whatever retail is for this bike!) |
| I believe some clarifications are in order regarding this bike. P.C., correct me if I'm wrong, but this is NOT a "Sports." It is a 23" frame (?) Raleigh Dawn on 26" wheels. The seller states "24 inch rims"; he apparently measured the actual rims, not realising that wheel size is measured including the tyres. This is a nice machine; I love the patina on the saddle with the black undercarriage, as well as the enclosed gearcase. However, I have a feeling that the seller is hoping to get some exorbitant sum for this auction, as he is asking $150 just to ship the thing. David |
| I had a chance to run up and look at this bike yesterday afternoon. It's a very nice bike. The decals and pinstripes are faded and the saddle is cracked pretty bad but the paint and chrome is in good shape and it should clean up nicely. It has 26" wheels with cheapie tires on it. The guy runs a pretty kool shop with all kinds of deco items in it. There was a $395 price on this bike so I'm guessing that's what his reserve is. He doesn't want to take the bike apart to ship it and that is the reason for the high shipping costs. |
| Yep, she's a Dawn and more specifically a Dawn Tourist. And a lovely job at that. The perfect everyday English bike. The only real clunker is the absurd "shipping charge". P.C. Kohler |
| Oh, I just noticed it has those wonderfully fat, grey torpedo grips. PC--I hope these are the ones you are trying to reproduce. David |
| Not trying but getting.... the cheque's gone out and the mould is being made. Stay tuned. P.C. Kohler |
| I am planning to sell an old Dahon. Before I list it anywhere, though, I wanted to make sure I was using the proper terminology. Therefore I wanted to ask all of you if you can provide me with the name of that little aftermarket contraption that threads onto a Sturmey indicator chain on one side, and allows for a normal (non-Sturmey) shift cable to attached to the other end. Thanks, -red |
| It's part of a complete non-SA shift cable. It has a regular handlebar end and the adjustable hub end that you noted. They're so common on SA 3-speeds I wouldn't even bother noting it in a description of a bike. |
| Thanks. Normally I wouldn't mention it, but the cable needs replacing. Since I know Sturmey cables can be a challenge to replace, I wanted to make sure I communicated to the buyer that this would be an easy fix; hence the desire to name that specific part. |
| I've heard that many older roadsters ended up being equipped with mud flaps on the fenders. What kind were they in terms of brand and material (leather or rubber maybe?)? Anyone know if they're still availible? |
| Due to frequent wettings, the earliest mudflaps were made from oiled sealskin or walrus hide which are more resistant to rot. After the development of vulcanization, rubber became the preferred material. In the tropics, leaves or palm fronds from native plants were often chosen as a cheaper substitute for imported animal skins. |
| Somewhere, maybe the rec.tech FAQ, there's a set of instructions for making them out of milk jugs. Elsewhere, the Freddy Fender product comes equipped with flaps. |
| Somewhere, maybe the rec.tech FAQ, there's a set of instructions for making them out of milk jugs. Elsewhere, the Freddy Fender product comes equipped with flaps. |
| This site provides illustrated instructions for fabricating your own from stair tread rubber: http://www.phred.org/'alex/bikes/fendermudflap.html |
| Hello All I have some NOS Bluemels clipon white mudflaps with red relective cycle motive if anyone wants one $10 inc post |
| I made a mud flap for my Sports out of some heavy rubber left over from a goldfish pond. It's heavy but flexible. |
| I have made mud flaps from rubber sheet that I get from a gasket manufacturer in the UK. I typically use 3/32" and copy an original for a template. But why stop there? What about a Spat made from oil cloth for the front mudguard and one for the rear wheel. I have original examples of these which I have copied. They are basically triangles of material with elastic sewn into the edges. There is an eyelet at each corner and they tie to the axle with rubber cord with hooks on the end. They seem to have died out after WWII but I still use them as I often cycle to work wearing a suit. They keep the mud off ones kit remarkably well and are easy to remove for the more sporty look. Regards, Tim. |
| Are many of you using hub shiners? I have a DL-1 which has leather ones both front and rear. Besides adding to the vintage look, I believe they will also adsorb some oil from S-A and help keep this area clean. As for front use, if oiled they probably just help prevent rust. Any thoughts on rationale for using or not using "hub shiners" (for lack of a better name)? |
| Correct terminology Jack. Let's take a thought process trip for a moment. The shiners collect oil, oil collects dirt, dirt is abrasive, millions of revolutions of dirty,gritty, oil impregnated leather abrading on the hub slowly wears away the chrome. :-( Hub is funky looking. An oily hub won't rust. If I see an old 3 speed with a clean hub, I'll usually find rust on the bottom. I think the shiners look cool too, contraindicated but cool. |
| Stacey's right about the shiners collecting oil and dirt, but I like them, and use them on my bikes. I just change them when they get too dirty. I made mine from an old dog leash my kids found. Nothing to it, a vertical slit on one end and an arrow head shape on the other. Just change them one a year and you'll be fine |
| I like holding them together with those little reflector license plate screws---sam |
| Thanks for the responses. Mine have a low profile machine screw and nut holding them together but I remember when some were a reflector. Both fr and rr may be overkill so I guess its just a personal preference rather than concours demerit. |
| Funny you should mention hub shiners. I bought a 1962 Dunelt last weekend from an old man who says he is too old to ride his bikes anymore, and it had hub shiners front and rear. The rear Sturmey Archer hub was missing the oil port plastic cap (the hub makes a loud tick, sounds like its completely dry inside) and I have been wondering whether the hub shiner might have been responsible for knocking it off. I've been thinking that I'd take the hub shiner off when I get the bike back on the road in case thats the case. But they are kind of cool none the less. |
| Funny you should mention hub shiners. I bought a 1962 Dunelt last weekend from an old man who says he is too old to ride his bikes anymore, and it had hub shiners front and rear. The rear Sturmey Archer hub was missing the oil port plastic cap (the hub makes a loud tick, sounds like its completely dry inside) and I have been wondering whether the hub shiner might have been responsible for knocking it off. I've been thinking that I'd take the hub shiner off when I get the bike back on the road in case thats the case. But they are kind of cool none the less. |
| Hi all. Well I need some advice here as it's time to buy the wheelset and have them laced. I'm building up a 50's Schwinn cantilever. So far parts from 3 bikes compose it's character. Out back will be an SA hub. Here's my problem to which I need advice. I've 4 hubs here to choose from. 2- SA AW's, one dated 53, the other dated 70. Next I've a TCW III dated 69. Fianlly I've a S3C dated 78. The AW's are 40 hole, the other two are 36. I really like the TCW III the best as it has the coaster brake should I desire it, and the chrome is mint. The hub is really nice. I've been told however the TCW III have numberous problems. This bike will not be ridden alot, more for light evening trips and bike paths. So, that's my situation. Which is the best hub that will deliver the best service. The rims I've chosen are available in both 36 and 40 hole also. I'm having them laced up to 700's for a wider tire selection, plus the rims chosen really set off the bike. All advice appreciated. Thanks, Kevin |
| Cantilever frame; Are you sure you're going to able to work 700Cs into that? I wouldn't use either of the coaster hubs, neither work particularly well, especially the TCW, for which parts are no longer made. Sun CR18s come in 40-hole and work well with a 700X28 tire, which is usually the max size you can stuff under a English 3-speed fender. Or find a 36-hole AW shell and transfer it over, it's not hard. |
| I had that same though--can you put 700s in the corvette frame?And as a note,Kevin's frame will take front and back cable brakes so having the coaster is not a problem---sam |
| Hi Guys. Yea, the 700's went right in. In fact, so did a nice set of 27" I have. As for rims the CR 18 is exactly what I intended on using. I've one new 36 hole given to me so getting a 40 hole will make the decision easier. As for fenders the English set I've got look real nice in the Schwinn middleweight frame. Or I've a set of ESGE's. I'm using a fork from a Schwinn 70's Super Sport instead of the heavy, dead weight stock forged piece. Alloy stem and bars, also Schwinn. Weinmann side pulls from a donor Varsity. A guy here in town gave me a box full of English made shifter and brake cables. Real nice. Sort of a creamy white color. Not sure yet on crankset choice, or chain guard. Oh yea, the rear rack is from a Schwinn Jaguar. Overall, the bike has a flow to it. Color selection is going to be tough. Next spring. So, I should use the AW's? Bummer as the TCW III is so nice, but........... I'll listen to reason. Besides, a 40 spoke rear wheel will be sorta cool. Thanks for the advice guys. Kevin |