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Archived: English Roadsters

FOR SALE:   English bike parts posted by: Ray on 12/13/2003 at 4:54:18 AM
I just put a load of Brit bike parts up on Ebay. Check it out.

   RE:RE:FOR SALE:   English bike parts posted by Ray on 12/17/2003 at 9:13:49 PM
Not sure, how would I identify a DL-1 vs any other Raleigh 28 inch. There are no other identifying decals.

   RE:FOR SALE:   English bike parts posted by David Poston on 12/15/2003 at 3:56:45 AM

Is that a Raleigh DL-1 from the 1950s that you are parting out?


ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Here's an interesting Norman on Ebay posted by: Larry "Boneman" Bone on 12/13/2003 at 3:01:06 AM

Definitely different. Single sided chaincase? Wonder if that's original or half is missing....



ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Triumph bicycle... Year??? posted by: Marcelo Afornali on 12/12/2003 at 11:26:51 PM

I am of Brazil, I have a page of old bicycles (www.bicicletasantigas.com.br) and look information on English a Triumph bicycle... The manufacture number is F57274... It would like to know the year of this bicycle if they will be able to help me... It would also like if possible, of the aid with some photo or catalogue, therefore the one that is in the gallery of this page, is not so clear... A catalogue would help very... The bicycle in question, is equal of the photo, also the measure of the wheels... Without more I thank and I wait aid...

A great one I hug and happinesses to the friends...

Marcelo Afornali...

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Triumph bicycle... Year??? posted by Ward Davis on 12/13/2003 at 2:13:23 PM
Beautiful pictures on this site.Thanks, Marcelo!

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Triumph bicycle... Year??? posted by Warren on 12/13/2003 at 6:22:57 PM
Fabulous website...a selection of german bikes I'm sure many of us haven't seen before. The 52 Raleigh is outstanding as well as the funky Hirondelle. Scroll down and see the catalogue scans...wow.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Triumph bicycle... Year??? posted by James on 12/13/2003 at 6:46:40 PM
I've never seen to many nice old german bikes in one place before, did you restore those yourself? I wish i could read portugese. I think know I'm going to be searching for a Wanderer or Dürkopp instead of a Raleigh roadster.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Triumph bicycle... Year??? posted by Marcelo Afornali on 12/14/2003 at 12:36:55 AM

I am very happy that has liked my page. He really has many bicycles German, English, there, also French, etc... Unhappyly, American bicycles are not so common for here. It would like that the friends participated of the site with photographs of its bicycles and will have greater pleasure in editing in my page, the history of each one. I believe that without information, we do not obtain to walk ahead, therefore it is very important to place these beautiful vehicles in use condition. On the bicycles that meet in the exposition gallery, the majority is restored. A research work is made all so that the service is made in accordance with the original. I thank the attention and I continue to ask for aid in the case of the Triumph bicycle. I ask for that they send direct email for me and that in case that they want to know more on my work, that ask, therefore I will have the biggest pleasure in changing information.

A great one I hug the friends, many happinesses and pardon my English who is not god.

Marcelo Afornali. www.bicicletasantigas.com.br

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Triumph bicycle... Year??? posted by Ward on 12/14/2003 at 6:08:20 PM
Marcelo:Your English is FINE! Most of us only speak one language. YOU speak at least two that we know about.Looking forward to your future posts!

WANTED:    posted by: James Biffin on 12/12/2003 at 12:47:11 AM
I have 21 inch and 24 inch sports frame raleighs and would ideally like to get something inbetween. What size came after 21 inches, 22 or 22.5? were 23 inch frames made?
If anyone has decent sports frame bike in these sizes from the 50s or 60s they want to get rid of, let me know, I'd use an old sports frame for my first restoration project, maybe install a newer 5 speed hub, or 3 speed with drum brakes in the rear.

thanks, James

   RE:WANTED: posted by P.C. Kohler on 12/12/2003 at 1:27:25 AM
Wait a sec, James... are sure you have a 24" "sports"? Post-war the standard frame sizes were 19", 21" and 23" for the sport type machines. I've never seen a 24" one before. Club bikes were usually 21", 22", 23". Better grades of custom machines were often sized in half inches i.e. 21 1/2 etc.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:WANTED:    posted by James on 12/12/2003 at 7:56:38 PM
You're right, it is a 23 inch, sorry I was a bit out of it last night, I was in a bicycle accident and loopy on pain killers. means 22 inches would be the ideal size for me and they are apparently rare. What exactly is a "club bike" are those the old derailleur raleighs?

   RE:RE:WANTED:    posted by P.C. Kohler on 12/12/2003 at 8:32:01 PM
Club bikes is the generic name given to the British lightweight machines of the 1930s-50s. These usually had 26" x 1 1/4" wheels, hub gears or Cyclo-Benelux derailleurs or, as often as not, no gears, often Reynolds 531 tubing and advanced alloy components, dropped handlebars, a quirky but very handy and comfortable frame geometry that was tighter than a "sports" but not like a racing bike, celluloid mudguards and wonderful names and colours. And yes they came in 22" frames! The Raleigh Clubman only came in that size which suits me to a tee. And I am 6" 2"!

Pre-war the Raleigh Dawn roadsters came in 22" if memory services but post-war it was standardised to 19", 21" and 23" except for the big 28" wheel roadsters which were 22" and 24".

Inches DO matter. But just as important is frame geometry. I am comfortable riding a 24" DL-1 and a 22" Clubman so try and figure that out!

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:RE:WANTED:    posted by P.C. Kohler on 12/12/2003 at 8:37:40 PM
Sorry, James, I thoughtlessly neglected to wish you a speedy recovery from your accident! It can be scary out there this time of year..

P.C. Kohler

   RE:WANTED:    posted by James on 12/12/2003 at 11:43:39 PM
Maybe I should get a 22" roadster, unfortunately I cannot try one out, if I do find one it will be online and for sale on the other side of the country.

   RE:WANTED:    posted by James on 12/12/2003 at 11:46:51 PM
I'm ok now, the problem is the bike isn't and it was my only working bike.

AGE / VALUE:    posted by: MR on 12/11/2003 at 6:49:12 PM
Speaking of trades, I have a Raleigh DL-1 that hung in a shop for 15 years and is like new, with full chain case, and original "hockey" stick with it.. I have been looking for a 1964-1968 Honda 305 Superhawk for a long time. If someone might have one and be interested in a trade, I would like to hear from them. It need not be in mint condition like my bicycle, however I would like one that runs, and is restoreable. Please let me know...

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   S/A date codes posted by: Beth on 12/11/2003 at 2:54:14 AM
Hi I have a quick question.
I am confused on S/A's date codes on 2 points.
I have an AW hub coded 69 16.
Is 16 really 1/6?
And am looking at buying a dynohub with the code 10 5 3
One the dynohub is this related to voltage or date.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   S/A date codes posted by Sidney Sideline on 12/11/2003 at 9:49:44 PM
Beth you've obviously worked out there can't be 16 monthd in a year but I have a feeling hubs for the RSW 16" wheel might just be marked 16, they were geared 'up' to give an equivalent ratio to a 26" wheel. The dyno hub relates to OCtober '53. A good find. Sid

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   S/A date codes posted by Beth on 12/12/2003 at 1:16:19 AM
That's interesting and confusing Sid. This Hub is laced into a 32 spoke 26" rim. Could it not be original to the bike? I had no reason to think that before.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   S/A date codes posted by David on 12/12/2003 at 3:03:50 AM
I've never heard of an AW w/different ratios - that would be a different hub. My Twenty just has a very small sprocket (I haven't counted).

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   S/A date codes posted by Ed on 12/12/2003 at 3:19:37 PM
Correct me if I'am wrong but I seem to remember hearing that SA used a complicated method of dating that involved entering a number for the week that the item was made.I have always believed this to be the reason that a couple of my hubs have numbers that fall beyond a twelve month year

WANTED:   Trade one of your rides? posted by: A Jackson on 12/11/2003 at 1:14:31 AM
Hi, all...
Never posted on this part of OldRoads before, but I am in the process of conducting an interesting experiment. For Christmas this year, I purchased my girlfriend a very nice early 60's Raleigh Sports. Tuned it and took it for a test ride, and now I want an old Brit bike of my own. However, I'm a bit short of cash with the holidays and all, so I propose the following: I have for TRADE ONLY a complete 1955 Schwinn Black Phantom. It's all there and all original, except for a missing rear light and incorrect rear reflector. Fully ridable, but is a restoration project. I'm looking for a good to great condition DL-1, but might consider other interesting trades (mint Superbe?) I'm not looking for cash offers, just a trade. What do you have? I'm in northern Indiana....

   RE:WANTED:   Trade one of your rides? posted by Mark R. on 12/11/2003 at 3:48:33 PM
Mr. Jackson, look for an e-mail from me....

   RE:WANTED:   Trade one of your rides? posted by Dick on 12/12/2003 at 2:51:26 PM
I have a pair of like new Raleigh Sprites(1967) Matched men's and ladies green with SA 5 speed hubs. Interested?

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Vintage bikes for sale? posted by: Shreve on 12/10/2003 at 11:41:24 PM
Does anyone know of other websites out there that sell Vintage bikes in particular English roadsters? Does anyone know of a Vintage bike store in the Washington, DC metropolitan area? I'd appreciate the help. I'm having a hard time finding any selection and the bikes I saw on oldroads.com were put on hold before I could put a bid in.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Vintage bikes for sale? posted by James on 12/11/2003 at 6:39:34 AM
I've found a few on the boston craigslist, tried to buy a nice BSA bike but the owner wouldn't let me give her a large sum of money to have it shipped to OR. You might try emailing the people at oldroads, they have bikes that haven't been put online. A few people here or on rollbritannia who responded to want ads posted on the boards.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Vintage bikes for sale? posted by VVVintage Vintage Bicycles, Inc. at OldRoads.com on 12/11/2003 at 2:50:42 PM
Yes, we have around 50 or 60 English 3-speeds in inventory and in various states of condition. We're working on getting some more posted within the next week.


   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Vintage bikes for sale? posted by P.C Kohler on 12/11/2003 at 4:24:20 PM
District Hardware (Dupont Circle) is the best friend an English three-speed has in Washington, D.C.... James is their roadster guru. They also occasionally have used machines for sale.

If you're interested in a 1948 Raleigh Dawn Tourist and a 1951 Rudge De Luxe Sports Tourist, contact me directly. I am in Washington, D.C.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Vintage bikes for sale? posted by Tom on 12/11/2003 at 5:51:06 PM
James, send me an email. The BSA you mention from boston.craigslist.org I think is being sold down the street from me in Wellseley by a lady named mimi. I'll be happy to buy it and ship it to you if she still has it.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Vintage bikes for sale? posted by David Poston on 12/11/2003 at 7:05:03 PM

Did I hear you correctly? You are trying to sell BOTH your Raleigh Dawn and your Rudge Sports Tourist? After all that painting, lining and hard work? I'd be curious to know how much you are asking for these, after all you've invested in them.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Vintage bikes for sale? posted by Dick on 12/12/2003 at 2:57:27 PM
I have a 'like new' matched pair(his and hers) 1967 5 speed Raleigh Sprite's. They are both small frames. Original Dunlop tires, etc. One Brooks Saddle, Other saddle used and damaged.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Vintage bikes for sale? posted by P.C. Kohler on 12/12/2003 at 7:36:24 PM
Yes, alas, David.... I am resigned to finding new homes for both of these. I have a '48 Lenton Clubman and a '51 Lenton Tourist arriving from England (gee took just a YEAR to get these painted and one wound up in the wrong colour!!) in a week or so and just running out of room. I do, however, have a strong preference to selling them locally to avoid the cost, nuisance and potential damage of shipping and to keep two British classics on the road here in Washington! Haven't quite settled on a price for either but it's time to concentrate on what I like to ride the most.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Vintage bikes for sale? posted by Edward in Vancouver on 12/12/2003 at 10:52:01 PM
P.C., this doesn't mean that you'll, you'll be leaving the Roadsters forum, does it? Say it ain't so.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Vintage bikes for sale? posted by P.C. Kohler on 12/13/2003 at 2:26:50 AM
No, you're not that lucky... I still love 'em and will keep my favourite '49 Rudge Super Safety and my DL-1 which I've had since 1979. These are my "working" bikes for city riding and errands but for sports riding, I just much prefer my club bikes. And I just collect what I ride. At least I am "replacing" one Raleigh from 1948 with another '48 and one 1951 Rudge with a '51 Raleigh.

P.C. Kohler

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Vintage bikes for sale? posted by: Shreve on 12/10/2003 at 11:41:24 PM
Does anyone know of other websites out there that sell Vintage bikes? Does anyone know of a Vintage bike store in the Washington, DC metropolitan area? I'd appreciate the help. I'm having a hard time finding any selection and the bikes I saw on oldroads.com were put on hold before I could put a bid in.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Vintage bikes for sale? posted by wade on 12/13/2003 at 12:03:32 AM
my friend and i will be putting a new site up soon filled with bikes.. there will only be a few british bikes to start.. but we will start it with at least 200 bikes, probably more, for sale... i will post when it goes up... this will be a site for all types of bikes

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   "Dead Space" in Crank Rotation posted by: Tom on 12/10/2003 at 2:33:15 PM
I have this odd occurance of "dead space" during the rotation of the left crank between approximately 1-10 o'clock. When the pedal is at these locations, it doesn't feel to be catching much of anything to produce work, although the chain, etc, is all still attached. This only occurs with the left pedal at these locations.
This is on a 76 Raleigh Sports. It makes pedaling a wobbly affair, although the bike is altogether ridable.
Any thoughts on where to begin?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: posted by Warren on 12/10/2003 at 3:07:45 PM
Loose cotter pin.Take a big hammer and whack the pin in hard. Then gently snug the lock nut up. Don't try to draw the pin in by tightening the nut alone. If the whacking of the pin doesn't work then replace it. There is a lot of info on this by searching the archives here or go to Sheldon Brown's website for more info.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:    posted by James on 12/10/2003 at 9:31:57 PM
I had a similar problem on my Raleigh Sports, I don't have the proper tools to deal with that part of the bike so I took it too a bike shop, tightening the cotter pins didn't work, so they took them out and discovered they were worn.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:    posted by David on 12/10/2003 at 10:08:02 PM
PRESS it in, don't whack it with a BFH; you run a big risk of damaging the bottom bracket. A big C clamp with a socket over the threaded end should do. If that doesn't do it, you'll probably need to have the cotter replaced.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: posted by Warren on 12/11/2003 at 4:44:22 AM
I know what you're saying David but I've got to speak out on this one. I have personally whacked dozens of cotter pins. I have NEVER had one of these old hard steel bottom brackets show an inkling of damage, misalignment or loosening up IF they are tight and well-adjusted in the first place. They are overbuilt and can take hard riding, jumping curbstones by heavy riders for decades without showing duress...again IF they are adjusted properly. The press in thing is great if you've got a good fitting pin. My experience is that cotter pins are rarely just that and it takes a large impact to distort the pin enough to fill up enough voids in the joint to make it tight.

I was being a little slack in not suggesting that you support the weight of the axle with a block of wood...you should but I really think you can get away with this behaviour. No, I know you can and I also know more than a couple good experienced wrenches who do the same. Just don't miss the pin and hit the frame or chainrings. That takes time experience, technique and practice.

Just my 2 cents (cdn)

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: posted by Mark R. on 12/11/2003 at 3:51:00 PM
If the pin is loose, remove it and file the taper flat first, because it probably is messed up from being used loose. Make sure you support the end of the crank when you set the pin with a hammer else you might cause indentations in your bearing race!!!!

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: posted by Tom on 12/11/2003 at 5:54:21 PM
I just whacked it down a cm or two with the hammer and then tightened the bolt -- problem solved.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:    posted by Zorg on 12/11/2003 at 9:53:25 PM
I'm with the happy whackers given due support. Whack on!

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:    posted by MR. on 12/12/2003 at 4:48:48 PM
Yes you can indeed ruin a perfectly good bearing race if you install a pin without supporting the end of the crank. I ruined several before I found out about doing so. I had set the pins with a hammer, and afterwards the crank seemed to run rough. Sure enough when I took it apart, there were detents in the RACES. I'd hammered too hard, and ruined the races. It CAN and will happen.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:    posted by Mucus on 12/12/2003 at 4:50:10 PM
Hey Zorgie man, did you say wackers, or wankers???

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:    posted by GMS on 12/12/2003 at 10:46:34 PM
I had the loose pin problem the other day, all i needed to do was tighten the nut. I dont suggest wackin the pin IN, you will have to wack it that much harder to get it out if you ever need to.

AGE / VALUE:   Triumph with Shimano hub? posted by: James on 12/10/2003 at 6:32:51 AM
My dad bought an early raleigh Triumph bike, I assume it is early because it has a proper detailed headbadge not the usual sticker on flat tin headbadge one sees on triumphs. It has a shimano hub, did they originally come with shimano hubs was the oringal hub replaced. I'm curious, does anyone remember where Triumph bikes were sold? department stores or bike shops or Triumph motorcycle dealers?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Triumph with Shimano hub? posted by David on 12/10/2003 at 11:47:01 AM
Do the other components betray their dates or origin? (Pedals w/reflectors, metric/whitworth seat clamp, Lucas or SA reflector, 32/40 spoking)? I doubt Triumphs were ever normally sold in the US by MC dealers; it seems that all the car and MC brands (Sunbeam, Humber, BSA, Triumph, e.g.) were quite separate from the bicycles by the postwar period.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Triumph with Shimano hub? posted by David on 12/10/2003 at 11:55:11 AM
P.S. Does anyone know when or if Bianchi bicycles and motorcycles were separated as businesses? I think their Grand Prix efforts in the mid-60s nearly sank the company.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Triumph with Shimano hub? posted by Warren on 12/10/2003 at 1:49:14 PM
Bianchi was founded in 1897 as a bicycle manufacturer and was making motorcycles by 1910. They stopped making motorcycles in 1967...the 70th anniversary of the company. I don't think the company ever sold off either division. They just quit making them.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Triumph with Shimano hub? posted by Nulli secundus on 12/11/2003 at 9:58:41 PM
Early Triumph would be early C20 ie 190# didi you mean that early? I think a 1910 model I've seen had a two speed bottom bracket but I've never seen a Triumph with a Shimano hub not even late seventies and early eighties Traffic master models, always Sturmey Archer and always sold in cycle shops. Enjoy the Triumph! (second to none)

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Freewheel seems a bit Fixed posted by: Tom on 12/9/2003 at 3:45:34 PM
On my 73 Hercules with SA hub, the pedals turn with the rear wheel, unless there is some weight on the pedals to engage the freewheel mechanism. I tried loosening the bolts, chain tension, and lubing the cog, but as yet, no dice. Its not such a big deal (doesn't affect ridability) but was wondering for a solution none the less.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Freewheel seems a bit Fixed posted by MR on 12/9/2003 at 4:46:42 PM
Mine does that as well. It causes no problems either. I'd forget about it. Unless of course it stops freewheeling altogther! Naa, it's probably OK.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Freewheel seems a bit Fixed posted by P.C Kohler on 12/9/2003 at 5:37:44 PM
I hate when that happens!

Usually it means the cones are a tad too tight... loosen a bit and see if that helps.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Freewheel seems a bit Fixed posted by edgarecks on 12/9/2003 at 7:38:18 PM
PC is right. Glenn's Manual (available at better libraries) explains this in more detail. When the bearings are properly adjusted the pedals SHOULD turn ever so slightly when the wheel is turning.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Freewheel seems a bit Fixed posted by David Poston on 12/9/2003 at 11:58:34 PM
ALL of my S-A hubs do this, to some extent. I have yet to solve this mystery, and it irks me still. I have tried loosening the rear hub cones until the wheel was wobbly, adding S-A oil, loosening the chain, TIGHTENING the chain. Believe it or not, TIGHTENING the chain seemed to help for some odd reason. However, you have to be careful not to get it too tight; otherwise, nothing will turn--your cranks, your freewheel, nothing! I think the only real solution is to take apart the hub and service it--if I can work up the courage to do it!


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Freewheel seems a bit Fixed posted by James on 12/10/2003 at 6:32:34 AM
My Robin Hood was doing that, I figured it was gunked up on the inside, so I flushed it out with a really thin synthetic lube, synthetic motor oil and then took it apart, I didn't find anything wrong. I never thought of fiddling with the cones, I guess I don't like easy solutions.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Freewheel seems a bit Fixed posted by Tim on 12/10/2003 at 9:19:47 AM
I had this problem on a FW 4 hub. After trying the usual method of slackening the cones and flushing the hub and re-lubricating I finally stripped it down to check the internals. All I found was lots of hard gunge stuck under the pawls. It seems that the flushing with the solvent de-greaser didn't shift this. I cleaned it out, reassembled and the problem went away.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Head-Tube Ball Bearing Sizes posted by: Bob on 12/9/2003 at 4:29:25 AM
Does anyone have a definitive guide to head-tube ball bearing sizes for these classics? I'm breaking down a collection of rusted Armstrongs to cull, salvage and reassemble parts. So far, I've broken down a Woman's '62 which had 0.125" dia bb's and a Men's '67 which had 0.156" bb's. I have many more bikes to go: Armstrongs, other English makes, Schwinns, Columbias, etc. (All Sturmey-Archer 3-speeds). Can anyone tell me what I expect before I pull the fork?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Head-Tube Ball Bearing Sizes posted by jack on 12/9/2003 at 6:40:58 AM
Bob, I recently lost a couple of BBs in the grass from a '69 Superbe headset. Went to Bike shop and got more but did not use them because I later read that the listed size is a NOMINAL size. That is, different lots of BBs can vary in ACTUAL size by a few millionths. Mixing in a larger BB causes a high spot and it and the race takes a pounding. A smaller BB doesn't do anything but go along for the ride. If you lose 1 or 2 BBs, its better to either replace all with same lot or run short. I measured the BBs I didn't use and they are .156".

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Head-Tube Ball Bearing Sizes posted by Jeff R on 12/9/2003 at 12:26:19 PM
Pre 1960 Phillips made bikes use the smaller size .125 balls and Raleigh made bikes use the larger size .156 balls.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Head-Tube Ball Bearing Sizes posted by P.C. Kohler on 12/9/2003 at 1:20:43 PM
Ball bearing specs (number per race and sizes)for Raleigh Industries machines are all in the Raleigh manuals the files section of Roll Britannia and Roll Britannia 2.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Head-Tube Ball Bearing Sizes posted by Bob on 12/10/2003 at 3:19:57 AM
Thanks, all! You provided me more than I had hoped for.

FOR SALE:   Nice DL1 Raleigh Tourist posted by: Geoff Rogers on 12/8/2003 at 10:04:45 PM
All the discussion lately about the ethics of buying and selling our favorite stuff on ebay has inspired me to list my DL1 here, instead of on ebay.
It's a 1973, very clean and very little used. The tires are original and like new (made by Semperit with the ROADSTER name), pedals look never to have seen a curbside scrape (nice chrome, Sir Walter is clear and neat on the end cap) or cruel treatment at the bottom of somebody's shoe, original DARE grips look new. The paint is very deep glossy black, lining is in excellent shape, decals sharp and bright. The chrome is excellent, but not perfect. There are no dents. Now for the bad stuff. The bike was obviously stored in a damp cellar or similar location for a time, as there are little rust "worms" starting in spots on the rear fender. There is some blistering and bubbling on the hockey stick chainguard at the edges, and the fork has scratches at its lower end.
So what to do? Repainting the rear mudguard would be very tricky, as the lining would be near impossible to replicate, at least by me. Touching up the fork would be easy, and the chainguard might be touch-upable, but it would be hard to do a perfect job. The damage does not get close to the decals, so maybe a careful person might do it.
There's the rub: a careful person with more time than I have. I just have too many projects at present, old English bikes and old English cars.
So I would trade the machine for Jaguar or MG parts or clubman parts for my prewar Raleigh Record Ace. Or I would sell it. I'd like $400, given its unspoiled condition.
If nobody responds, I will guess that is too high and adjust. Or maybe I'll touch up the scratches and list on the cursed ebay.
Geoff Rogers

   RE:FOR SALE:   Nice DL1 Raleigh Tourist posted by James on 12/9/2003 at 1:58:32 AM
What sort of Jaguar parts are you looking for?

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hairpin leather saddle Question??? posted by: Tim on 12/8/2003 at 10:00:04 PM
I recently found one of the leather hairpin saddles at a quirky LBS and picked it up. It is exactly the same as the one sold by oldroads and some lowrider sites described here several weeks ago.

I decided to put some glove oil to soften and protect the leather a bit, but I am a bit puzzled. The underside of the saddle has a formed piece of cardboard that covers most of the open grain. It's a very cheap kind of cardboard that would turn to much if it ever got wet, which makes me wonder- should this just be removed? It looks like I could just tear it out, as it doesn't seem to be glued in, just held in by the rivets. Is this advisable? Any problems? Seems like a reasonable thing to do, if only to apply oil to the underside of the leather.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hairpin leather saddle Question??? posted by paul on 12/9/2003 at 12:21:41 AM
You do not say where this saddle was made. If made in China like the one I have, try it out first. I stopped using mine because it was very unstable. I now use a Brooks B72 which is terrific. paul

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Hairpin leather saddle Question??? posted by Tim on 12/9/2003 at 2:17:00 AM
Nobody seems to know where exactly these saddles come from. Some presumed India. I have no idea. They're identical to the ones sold on this site. There was a thread about them a few weeks back. Mine even has the address on the back for Ridable Replicas of CA like the one mentioned here by Larry "Boneman" Bone. Construction isn't too shabby. The leather is pretty thick and the springs/metalwork looks decent.

I've used it for a few days. It really isn't bad at all so far. The only thing that seems iffy so far is the thin paper/cardboard on the underside that seems unnecessary. Thus my question.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Hairpin leather saddle Question??? posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 12/9/2003 at 3:30:53 AM
Well, I've ridden around on that goofy saddle for a bit and I rather like it actually. Yes, I had noted the "underpinning" and scratched my head over it a wee might. As far as removing it, well, I don't plan to. Not sure of it's composition, but possibly it's a treated paperboard of some sort that is water resistant. Not saying that a good soaking would not cause it to delaminate... or whatever... but, if it aint broke...


Larry "Boneman" Bone

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hairpin leather saddle Question??? posted by David on 12/9/2003 at 11:45:03 AM
I bought a saddle in India 25 years ago and it had the same cardboard layer under the leather top. Eventually it started to disintegrate and I tore it out. I have no idea what it was for, but there's no diff in how the saddle feels.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hairpin leather saddle Question??? posted by Stacey on 12/9/2003 at 12:06:11 PM
Has anyone thought to contact the manufactuer/distributor of these seats and ask them? Methinks they can be found at www.hiwheel.com

Like Quasimodo said... "It's just a hunch."

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hairpin leather saddle Question??? posted by Warren on 12/9/2003 at 9:40:58 PM
Hunch...arfety-arf arf...snort!