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Archived: English Roadsters

AGE / VALUE:   Humber for sale posted by: Pete on 12/20/2003 at 10:27:19 AM
If anyone is looking for an interesting project I have for sale
a C1910 Humber ladies bike. It will need restoring but as far as I
can see ie totally original and complete. It has rod brakes and is
fitted with an X type SA hubgear. It has both Humber transfers on the
head tube and back fender. The full chain guard is a work of art and
again has two lovely transfers, one of which is royal appointment
transfer. It also has a rack and bell. I will try and sort out some
pics when it stops raining........ $250 plus shiping

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   holland made Triumph? posted by: larryc on 12/19/2003 at 9:05:33 PM
have a black w/1977 dated 3spd. rear hub.anyone know how common they are?has "r" on stem;believe a raliegh.says"made in holland" on top of seat tube. thanks.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   holland made Triumph? posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 12/22/2003 at 10:33:08 AM
Well, probably it is a "licensed by Raleigh" bicycle. I have a red Sports in excellent condition and... it was in fact made in Holland. Other than the "made in England" transfer not there on the top-tube, and the "Nottingham" missing on the headbadge, you would be very hard-pressed to tell actually.

Not sure as to the actual procedure of the time as to what was actually manufactured in Holland. i.e., were the hubs, wheels, etc. manufactured in England or not... Either way, it's a nice bike!


Larry "Boneman" Bone

AGE / VALUE:   Doppelrad bicycle posted by: james on 12/19/2003 at 4:19:59 AM
Have any of you ever seen or heard of a german bicycle called Doppelrad it looks just like this http://pessoal.onda.com.br/marceloafornali/m25.htm
I found one for sale, in decent shape, 28 inch wheels think I will buy it to restore (and install an old torpedo 3 speed) because rod brake Raleigh roadsters prices are too high. Were these ever sold here officially? Is there some sort of bicycle museum I could contact that might have some information?

AGE / VALUE:   Triumph bicycle... Year??? posted by: Marcelo Afornali on 12/18/2003 at 7:03:45 PM

I am of Brazil, I have a page of old bicycles (www.bicicletasantigas.com.br) and look information on English a Triumph bicycle... The manufacture number is F57274... It would like to know the year of this bicycle if they will be able to help me... It would also like if possible, of the aid with some photo or catalogue, therefore the one that is in the gallery of this page, is not so clear... A catalogue would help very... The bicycle in question, is equal of the photo, also the measure of the wheels... Without more I thank and I wait aid...

A great one I hug and happinesses to the friends...

Marcelo Afornali...

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Triumph bicycle... Year??? posted by sam on 12/19/2003 at 1:42:39 AM
Marcelo,a some-what related subject--(1958 booklet)The British Cycle Corporation list subsidiary and associated companies. Argentina:F.A.C.A.I.E.M. Mauricio Silbert S.A.,Buenos Aires;Tubos Britanicos(argentina)S.R.,Ltda.,Buenos Aires----sam

MISC:   the infamous coaster brake posted by: Ken on 12/17/2003 at 7:13:13 PM
It sort of took over another thread, and I wanted to take both sides... this appalling yankee gadget is in fact a drum brake, albeit a chain-actuated one, which works in all weather and is bulletproof. A glance at a list of Sturmey-Archer models reveals it's not new on the east side of the pond. As a boy I wore out several tires testing one repeatedly, and it never failed. Now, though, I find that my bikes which have coasters are the ones I never ride...

   RE:MISC:   the infamous coaster brake posted by Dick in FL on 12/17/2003 at 8:46:04 PM
Ah, yes! Your learned aversion to coaster brakes may attribute to that little shuffling foot dance that is necessary at every stop. Before your brain can fire the back-pedaling impulse to your feet, you must advance the pedal rotation forward up to a quarter turn to get the pedals at 3 and 9 o'clock before applying braking effort. Then, as the bike comes to a halt, the more forward foot comes off the pedal to engage the ground for static support. However, in order to resume pedaling, the bike must now be thrown over to the opposite side so that the previously supporting foot may be placed on the forwardmost pedal. This little lecture makes no headway with women past a certain age. They insist that any bicycle that you offer to build or procure for them *must* be equipped with a coaster brake.

   RE:RE:MISC:   the infamous coaster brake posted by Chris on 12/18/2003 at 1:37:49 AM
Oh, to be young again and hop on the bike and take off and be clipping along pretty well and you wait until you hit that patch of new sidewalk and you jamb on the coaster brake!

You leave a long, black mark and you kind of lose it at the end and so the mark is curvy. You release the brake before you come to a complete stop or before you lose it and wipe out.
It did not take long to ruin a rear tire but boy, it was a lot of fun!

I never ruined a rear hub but you always knew that it was not good for the mechanism.

Anybody ruin a coaster brake as a kid?
Anybody get hurt?
Tell us!

I remember the old man who yelled at me to knock it off!

   RE:RE:RE:MISC: the infamous coaster brake posted by John on 12/18/2003 at 3:33:44 AM
I never had a coaster brake bicycle so I found out that the rear caliper brake can be used to force a skid to leave that long, black mark. I also found out that with the caliper brake the skid can last right to the end as there is no need to keep even one foot on the pedals.

A coaster brake may actually hold up longer if it is locked up to skid often as there would be much less heat built up and would therefore cause less wear than when it is used properly. It's true that the forces on a locked up coaster brake are greater, but most of those hubs are/were made much stronger than needed. A copy of the New Departure hub that was made in the 1970's was prone to weld itself together on long downhill braking especially, but not only, when there was insufficient grease in it.

I've never been a fan of coaster brakes. Besides the fact that they aren't as safe as two caliper brakes or two rod brakes, I don't know of any coaster brake that is not dragging at least a bit even when it's off.

I stopped skidding when I ruined a tire that I couldn't find a replacement for here in the US, even in the 1960's. It was a whitewall Dunlop. All I could find were blackwall US made tires with a ribbed tread.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC: the infamous coaster brake posted by Edward in Vancouver on 12/18/2003 at 4:33:03 AM
First bike I ever got was a 20" wheel "mixed" frame. That is the top tube (which wasn't really a tube) could be removed and converted from a boy's to a girls. Course it had a coaster brake, found out the hard way that if you skidded on the same part of the tire more than three times, you'll burn the tire and tube. After that, I learned not to change tires with sharp screwdrivers, hey, I was only 7... Had a lot of fun with that bike, best friend's Dad ran over friend's bike, so at the age of 8 I stripped the wrecked bike of it's coveted bannana seat, sissy bars, etc. and installed them on mine. Funny about coaster brakes though, last year I shoppped around for a kiddie bike for my son and was amazed that all kiddie bikes had coaster and REAR calipers. Can't figure that one out.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC: the infamous coaster brake posted by Tim E. on 12/18/2003 at 7:51:08 AM
Last year I cobbled together a bike for my daughter from a couple alley castaways. It, too, had the coaster and rear caliper, which I moved to the front. I found that coaster/front caliper a pretty decent and simple combination, effective even with my grown-up weight.

It seems coasters are pretty varied things, though. I've ridden some that worked wonderfully, and some that were awful... they barely brake at all until they lock up. Some never worked well at all, like my TCW. And some, like my old Bendix, are a joy to use.

One thing I've found interesting is that they are being taken a bit more seriously. Single speed and fixed gear riders extoll the virtues of simplicity, and the only bike that's simpler than a coaster is a brakeless fixed gear. Some pretty pricey cruisers still stick to the coaster formula. An there's even a somewhat serious coaster bike out there: http://vandesselsports.com/b_straightUp.shtml,

I think coasters can be appreciated for being the practical devices they are, that perfectly suit many riders. Bicylists may turn up their noses at them. But millions of bike *riders* use them without giving a second thought.

   RE:MISC:   the infamous coaster brake posted by Ric Sona on 12/18/2003 at 4:25:00 PM
Learn to ride a bike at the age of 11 on mine dad's Sun clubman, my brother had to hold the bike up for me, legs too short then to even touch the ground. Got my first bike at 13, a 20inches sissy bike. Within 6 months, off came the banana seat and the sissy bar. Change the handlebar to a BMX bars, extended the fork by sawing off a roadster fork and ramming the two fork-tubes onto the straighten original fork. Shifted the new BMX seat rearward to be over the rear wheel by bending a 3 feet water pipe at 110 degree and off came the brakes and brake levers and got the rear wheel respoked with a coaster brake. Had good fun skidding on a barren field. Wishing to be 14 instead of 41.

Season Greetings to all at oldroads......Ric Sona waiting for the clouds to go away in not so sunny Singapore.

     the infamous coaster brake posted by Elvis on 12/22/2003 at 4:25:49 AM
Ah, the old coaster brake stingray! ... My first "real" bike as a kid was a 1975 stingray that my folks found during municipal cleanup week; the previous owner had removed the bannanna seat in favor of a bmx seat and the handlebars were replaced with mongoose bmx bars. It was yellow [the frame] with blue bars and I rode it for a while, then took it to my grnadparents house. I remember riding barefoot to the beach by the lake around the corner from their house. Those were the days!

A few years ago, I took the frame and put on a huge chopper fork, made from several bicycle top tube and a regular road bike fork cut in half -- the cut off top tubes were used as extensions. it was never welded, just hammered in place. I put a bolt-on plate acros the bottom of the fork, both for strength and to mount a handbrake for the front wheel. I rode that thing all the way to Madison to the local coffee shop during college [8 miles each way] and everyone thought it was the funkiest thing. I no longer have the frame, but I'm glad I brought it back for one last skid!

I also took a black frame Schwinn tornado and built it up like a stingray during my first few years of collage; that thing saw more dirt time along the trails by the passaic river than my TREK 820 mountain bike! It was especially cool to skid to a stop right at the edge of the riverbank, but as I recal from my childhood where a coster brake really shined was the sidewalk! You could leave huge half-moon skidmarks, and a controlled skid was an art form!

incidentally, before building a fixed gear road bike, I took a sears three speed, ripped out the shifters mechanism and rode it as a single speed coaster just to get in the feel. It was especially cool off road, but didn't last long. My fixed gear stays on the pavement.

   RE:MISC:   the infamous coaster brake posted by Fred on 12/22/2003 at 10:49:30 PM
In ancient times I had a Victory bike with a New Departure coaster brake. You can see it at; , I rode that bike to death during the 2nd. WW. The neat thing to do was to apply the brake to the point of lockup while throwing the rear wheel to the side, in my case to the right, resulting in a great dirt throwing slide. Most impressive with an audience. There were occasions when I thought the brake needed attention. In comparison to contemporary coaster brakes, the ND was a nightmare to re-assemble. I don't remember how many plates were in the thing but somehow I managed to end up with no leftovers. In a previous comment it was stated that mature ladies will have nothing to do with lever brakes. I often get requests from women for old style bikes with coaster brakes. The exception is, one delightful British lady, who grew up in England and wants nothing to do with what she calls, a back pedal brake. This lady told me a story about what happened to her Raleigh during the war. It was her custom to attend the movies on Sat nights. She would ride her bike into town and park it unlocked, (remember when we could do that), at the theater. One night she came out of the theater and found her bike missing. She reported the theft to the police who told that the American airmen at a nearby airbase would often overstay their visit to the city and miss the last tram to the base. Seeing unlocked bikes, they would take one and abandon it at the base gate. She never recovered her Raleigh but her father found her an old "sit up and beg" style bike. What that could be I can only guess. As for me, one coaster brake bike is was enough.

   RE:MISC:   the infamous coaster brake posted by Kimo on 12/23/2003 at 10:42:51 PM
Sorry John, but after a rear-end collision with a truck on a rainy day I opted to equip my dl-1 with a coaster and have never regretted it. I ride it daily through big city traffic and as good as I think I am its nice to be able to stop when I need to. Those rod brakes even when tuned to their best just don't cut it, especially in the rain. My latest ride is one that most readers will frown on. A 21" Dl-1 frame single speed, 700c wheels, slick half-moon handlebars, leather nipponese raleigh grips, trout creel for basket and a single speed coasterbrake. Simplicity itself. Its my current ride of choice.

MISC:   Carbide Bicycle Lamp posted by: Tim Powell on 12/17/2003 at 10:55:11 AM
I came across this site and thought that given the prices these things reach on Ebay for vintage Lucas examples this could be interesting. I noticed that they make caveing lamps as well so asked a friend who goes pot holing if he knew of them. He said that Dey cave Lamps are available in the UK but didn't know about the Cycle lamps.
I have tried to contact them by Email with no success but will try a Telex. The quality of their cave lamps and mining lamps is apparently good.




   RE:MISC:   Carbide Bicycle Lamp posted by David Poston on 12/17/2003 at 7:31:53 PM

Can you explain how these things work? Might just be the thing for my 1920s Sunbeam. The ad is a bit exaggerated; it says, "better than any other cycle lamp..." I am amazed at a site that is touting late 19th century technology as the latest thing. More power to them, because I love this old stuff, but it is a bit incredible.


   RE:MISC:   Carbide Bicycle Lamp posted by David on 12/17/2003 at 8:27:35 PM
There's a water reservoir which slowly feeds into dry calcium carbide. The reaction produces acetylene gas, which is burned to make a bright light. I haven't used one in quite a while, but their light is pretty good. Obviously, the cycle models need a lens over the flame; a miner's lamp would not.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Carbide Bicycle Lamp posted by Ian on 12/18/2003 at 8:40:32 AM
David, the light from a carbide lamp with a good burner jet and a convex lens is at least as good as a two "D cell" electric torch or headlamp. If rebuilt they are usually reliable but you need a source of Rock Carbide, the powdered form used in school science labs does not work at all. If you want to pursue this email me and I will scan some pages from the Lucas "Cyclealities" booklet which is full of little tips on how to get the best from their cycle accessories. I could probably supply an appropriate lamp at a little less than Ebay prices too. Regards, Ian.

   RE:MISC:   Carbide Bicycle Lamp posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 12/18/2003 at 1:24:09 PM
The carbide lamp was the standard "cap" lamp that coal miners used for years here in the US. They did NOT have lenses, threw a paltry amount of light... and, as most know, if you hit a pocket of gas (not uncommon in coal mines) they would cause ignition of same.

I took a rather extensive tour in the Lackawanna County Coal mine near Scranton, PA a few years back. A rather incredible lifestyle the miners had. The conditions they worked in, the hours and the dangers were quite simply beyond comprehension.

I have an original miners cap light that a friend gave me. It was his dad's. What was most interesting was that his dad worked in the Sterling ZINC mine in Ogdensburg, NJ. I imagine the device still works. But quite literally, the older ones did not throw much more light than your average candle.

How one managed to work in the pitch black by candle light.... I will never know! Don't know how much light the "new" ones produce, but I don't think I would be going very fast at night with that as my sole source of illumination. But yes... they are cool looking contrivances!


Larry "Boneman" Bone

   RE:RE:MISC:   Carbide Bicycle Lamp posted by Tim Powell on 12/19/2003 at 9:35:49 AM
Well, I seem to have started something here. I already have some vintage carbide lamps one of which I use. It produces a light considerably brighter than a candle! I know about miners cap-lamps, living as I do in South Wales famed for its coal mines and yes they were a bit dim, (the lamps not the miners). However you must remember that there were many versions of the Davey Patent Safety Lamp that were fueled by carbide. These had a gauze cover and a Mica lens and were intended to indicate the presence of Methane Gas by burning a different colour. The gauze prevented the flame from causing ignition. There is a pretty good description of the workings of a Safety Lamp on the JK Dey site. Ususally it is only in coal mines that you find explosive gas. Not all bicycle lamps were self contained, some had an acetylene generator attached to the frame,(a tin can) and an arrangement of small rubber pipes feeding the lamps front and rear. There is a good example of one of these in the National Bicycle Museum in Llandrindod Wells in Wales. I am amazed at the number of personal Emails I have received on the subject of lamps which goes to show the number of people who read the posts here. I wonder how long it will be before the Dey lamps start appearing on Ebay as 'Vintage Examples' of bicycle lamps.


   RE:MISC:   Carbide Bicycle Lamp posted by Pete Paine on 12/19/2003 at 4:15:10 PM
These Lamps work really well, and was using one very resently. If you are thinking of buying one to use it is very important that the body that contains the gas is checked very carefully. The reason is that the brass used can age harden and crack. Also the rubber washer needs to be in good condition. The burners can be tricky things too
as they block very easily. They are also made in different sizes and configurations. The gas flow is usually measured in litres per hour.. In the carbide container there should also be a plate and spring which holds the crystals in place
and a cone or guaze which distributes the water. These are often missing. Always remember to clean out the bowl and parts imediatly
after use
I have got a complete working Lucas set which I use
on my 1927 500 BSA motorcycle... Great fun but kind of scarry!!!

   RE:RE:MISC:   Carbide Bicycle Lamp posted by Tim Powell on 12/22/2003 at 10:31:27 AM
I finaly got a response from JKDey regarding their Bicycle Torches. The price is £32 FOB British Port, which is OK I supose but the minimum order is 1000 units! Shame really as I reckon they would sell very well over here and in the USA. I had an Email regarding these lamps from a chap in Spain who says that there is a factory over there that still makes them. I have a name but no location, I will investigate. Spain is closer to the UK than India and I am going there in the New Year so with luck I may be able to track them down.



   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Carbide Bicycle Lamp posted by Tim Powell on 12/22/2003 at 3:20:43 PM
I see you, like me are still using carbide lamps. Have you tried the old trick of putting a capfull of Hydrogen Peroxide in with the water. It gives you about 20% more light. I have been doing this for years with no ill effects, in fact the reflector stays cleaner! I learnt this of an old timer who like you had carbide lamps on his motor bike. Thought i'd mention it in case you did not know.



   RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Carbide Bicycle Lamp posted by Tim Powell on 12/23/2003 at 10:14:15 AM
I have had a further response from JKDey by Email. It appears that they are prepared to drop their minimum order from 1000 pieces to 100 pieces. Below is a copy of their Email to me;
Dear Sir,

We are glad to know the market possibilities about Carbide Bicycle Lamp. In
fact the production cost will be gone high if the quantity of order is below
1000 Pcs. However we can undertake the job of minimum 100 Pcs. remaining the
same price already quoted you. If agreeable with our proposal, please let us

We wish you a happy X-MAS and NEW YEAR.

With regards.

Sandip Kumar Dey.

13, Old China Bazar Street
Kolkata 700001. INDIA
Cell Phone:- +91 9830354185
Tel:- 091 033 2242 6853(O),
033 2555 8491(R), 033 2555 4888 (R)
Fax:- 091 033 2554 5741, 033 2555 7658
E-mail:- jkdey@cal3.vsnl.net.in
Web Site:- www.jkdey.com

Their is probably an opportunity here for someone. Unfortunately not me.



   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Carbide Bicycle Lamp/ Mining tale( off topic) posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 12/25/2003 at 5:43:17 AM
I was told how my relative qualified for the job of carrying the dynamite in the mines.
He was an orphan.
The orphans were given this particularly dangerous job. If something happened to him, it was no big deal. There were no shortage of orphans either. The kids were not told what it was that they were doing because if so, they would not agree to do it. They were human bird dogs, only worse. They did as they were told, if they wanted food in their belly. If they refused, they were threatened to be sent back to the orphanage where many times they recieved a daily beating.
He worked in the mines as a boy. This was many years ago. He was from good Welsh breeding, loved his wife with every fibre of his being and everybody speaks very highly of him. To say we are lucky he survived would be an understatement. He was the father of my late grandmother.
Yes, there are tales to be told on this subject. Of that I am certain.

Tales in ones family need to be told and written down because it gets lost.

FOR SALE:   S/A 3 speed Dyno hub For Sale posted by: robertbox@angelfire.com on 12/16/2003 at 3:32:31 AM
This goes to ebay after the first of the year if no one here is interested. Sturmey Archer AG 3 speed Dynohub for sale. 1972 date stamp.
40 spoke holes. Hooked up a light to it , spun it and it puts out power.
Previous owner assured me that it works fine , but I felt I should test it. Chrome is good with the exception of in the area where the large "Dyno" part meets the smaller part of the hub. Some pitting there in a couple of areas.

45.00 plus shipping.

   RE:FOR SALE:   S/A 3 speed Dyno hub For Sale posted by GMS on 12/18/2003 at 6:59:10 PM
I tried foever to pound a pin out. The only thing that got it was a torch. I dont mean cutting it out, but just heating it up a bit. People use this for really rusted bolts and it works for crank cotters too. Dont forget the oil tho

AGE / VALUE:   ebay outing Herc roadster NOW posted by: Warren on 12/16/2003 at 1:46:45 AM
I'm outing this because someone on this list should buy it and he won't ship to Canada.


This would be a great roadster for those that can't ride the bike frame DL-1's. I'm not convinced it's pre'59 like he says but it's a cool bike anyway. 4 hours to go...

   RE:AGE / VALUE: ebay outing Herc roadster NOW posted by Warren on 12/16/2003 at 1:52:13 AM
...that's big frame DL-1's....

AGE / VALUE:   The ever elusive search for a cotter pin tool continues... posted by: David Poston on 12/15/2003 at 6:13:52 PM
Once again, the cotter pin tool eludes me. After 3-4 e-bay hunts, I finally win the tool. Turns out, I receive the thing, and the threads are stripped. The screw slides for an inch or so in the threaded socket before it engages. Translation: I can spin the screw around and around, but it isn't applying any pressure to the cotter pin. Bottom line: I will pay good dollars for this tool if someone has one, IF it is in working condition.

By the way, I saw this tool on e-bay, but wasn't sure whether to bid on it. It appears to be an English-made version of the cotter tool.



   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   The ever elusive search for a cotter pin tool continues... posted by Lenny Dintenfass on 12/16/2003 at 10:44:28 PM
Hi Joe,

While an official cotter pin removal tool would be great to have, I agree that drilling the pins out is good advice. My approach is to apply penetrating oil, let it sit overnight, and then give the pin a couple of hard whacks with a claw hammer after loosening the nut on the pin a bit, supporting the crank arm to the floor with a piece of ash notched underneath the pin. If that fails, I waste no more time with the hammer but begin drilling the pin out as you describe. However, I am in no way pooh-poohing the amazing creativity of the posters here(and those posting to the vintage lightweights group) to solve the "cotter pin problem". The willingness of folks to share their experiences on this site is "a beautiful thing".

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   The ever elusive search for a cotter pin tool continues... posted by Chris on 12/18/2003 at 1:25:21 AM
This tool is David's "Holy Grail" I think.

Hold the bike over a bench vise have somebody hold it for you. Align the crank against the back side of the vise and the one end the end of the vise that is going to drive back out the cotter pin is the side closest to you. Now you turn the crank and drive the pin back out in reverse of how it goes back in.

You do this after you soak the pin liberally in oil, or pennetrating oil or whatever. If it breaks off, the end. if that breaks off, then you use one of those small sockets that fit into a power screwdriver. Shove that into the hole and apply pressure against the pin and crank away driving that pin out.
You can skin this cat with a common bench vise.

Drilling (as I do it) almost always trashes the crank arms. It is not fast or easy and it's messy.

The older the bike, the harder and better the strength of the metal that the cotter pin is made of so the bottom line there is, the older bikes are bikes that have pins that are easier to remove. I have even re- used the cotter pins.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   The ever elusive search for a cotter pin tool continues... posted by Tom M on 12/16/2003 at 1:48:10 AM
David: Do you still have the cotter pin tool. Maybe you could have it fixed. Take it to a machine shop and have them look at it. Is there a school in your area that has a machine shop. They may be able to fix it. Try your local college, they may have a machine shop course and some student may be able to fix it. Did the seller give you your money back or did you get stung with this one.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   The ever elusive search for a cotter pin tool continues... posted by Joe on 12/16/2003 at 4:50:44 AM
Just a thought, if the stripped tool is made by Park, try contacting them for a sollution. It's been my experience that they stand behind their products very well.
You can email them at: info@parktool.com
The cotter pin removal tool that seems to work the best is a Var leverage type tool, this uses compound leverage versus threads to dislodge the pin. I have seen these on eBay from time to time. I picked up mine there about a year ago for $80. So far it's the best one I've used so far, however, if the pin is too long this one will only slip off or bend the pin. The Park tool has a tendency to spread the end of the forcing screw on really tough pins. Using it with an air gun will almost always ruin the threads, mostly from backing it off too far to the point of engaging the damaged portion of the screw. The tool you spotted on eBay is interesting but it's leverage point is not on the backside of the pin where it is needed most. I would also question the posibility of it damaging the chrome on the arm itself, not to mention if you were to use it on an alloy arm. No matter what tool you use you will always run across those pins that simply will not move, they either will bend or mushroom regardless which tool you use. The best answere for these cases is to drill the pin out from the back side. The pins are soft and drill easily. From experience, most British bikes don't usually pose a problem, I fabricated a tool out of a 1" brass rod with a recessed hole in one end and use a 1/2" diameter brass drift to knock most pins free while supporting the crank on the floor with the larger bar to avoid any bearing or chrome damage. No matter which method you use, a little penetrating oil will also do wonders.

WANTED:   black fenders for Triumph 26" wheels posted by: James on 12/15/2003 at 1:42:37 AM
My dad got an early raleigh built triumph, that is missing its fenders. Does anyone have a pair of black fenders for any brand that they would be willing to sell? The bike has 26" wheels.

- James

   RE:WANTED:   black fenders for Triumph 26 posted by appauled on 12/16/2003 at 10:48:35 PM
Coaster on an English bike!!!!!!!!!???????????
Nasty yankee habit.

   RE:RE:WANTED:   black fenders for Triumph 26 posted by James on 12/17/2003 at 11:31:20 AM
I have no desire to use a coaster hub in any of my bikes but I would like to point out that coaster hubs are very common in this type of bicycle - e.g. Batavus, Gazelle, Raleigh denmark, Raleigh Nederland, Union. In countries where "english roadsters" (or dutch roadsters) are still used by large numbers of people coaster hubs are common, I imagine it has something to do with the desire to stop in the rain. When I lived in Munich I had some obscure german bike with a 3 speed coaster hub, the bike was crap and had terminal rot but it did stop in the wet, unlike my Raleighs.

   RE:WANTED:   black fenders for Triumph 26 posted by Robert on 12/15/2003 at 3:16:36 AM

Email me if you are still looking for fenders.

   RE:WANTED:   black fenders for Triumph 26 posted by James on 12/15/2003 at 10:39:00 AM
I tried emailing you, Im not sure if anything got through my computer is weird tonight. I am interested in your fenders.

   RE:WANTED:   black fenders for Triumph 26 posted by James on 12/15/2003 at 10:44:07 AM
Another thing I'm looking for is a 3 speed coaster brake hub, my dad doesn't like the rim brakes and wants to put coaster brakes in so I thought this would make a good christmas present. A coaster brake hub still in a wheel would be even better.

   RE:WANTED:   black fenders for Triumph 26 posted by Ric Sona on 12/18/2003 at 3:53:16 PM
Maybe your dad is looking for hub brakes, SA AB hubs which are cable or rod operated.

   RE:WANTED:   black fenders for Triumph 26 posted by larryc on 12/19/2003 at 9:04:53 PM
hello; is yours made in england or holland? I have a 1977 made in holland.

AGE / VALUE:   1951 Schwinn Traveler posted by: marc on 12/14/2003 at 6:14:17 AM

here are some pics of the bike. It's a great 51 traveler, sturmey hub, generator and lights. It's a very cool bike, paint is great and so are the decals. I've never seen a traveler like this before. The schwinn world decals are great and include a globe. most of the chrome should clean up. not bad for 5 bucks!!! Anyone care to guess at the value?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   1951 Schwinn Traveler posted by sam on 12/14/2003 at 11:16:18 PM
U don't see many men's frames with those decals left.Also U did not show the brake leavers,do they have the Schwinn name on them(worth $75 apiece)?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   1951 Schwinn Traveler posted by GMS on 12/15/2003 at 12:43:41 AM
Thats awsomwe! With some cleaning and maybe a bit of i tune up(i dont know :P ) that could really be brought back to life! Looks complete which is always the best deal! 5 bucks...good deal, its good for us collecters that many people dont see the value in old bikes, but unfortinate for them like in your case! Let us know when you get her cleaned up! Its gonna turn out awsome if done right!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   1951 Schwinn Traveler posted by Fred on 12/15/2003 at 10:41:42 PM
Marc: I was surpised to see that the front fender on your Traveler is identical to the one on my pre-war Hercules racer, see it at "FRED'S WHEELS", . I had never seen that style with the long narrow front end. Maybe someone can add some knowledge about this fender.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   1951 Schwinn Traveler posted by sam on 12/15/2003 at 11:17:41 PM
Not quite identical.The schwinn does not have the center ridge running the full length of the fender.But yes Blade tip fenders were common on American Lightweights from the 30s till early 50s.Very similar to English mudgards of the same time---sam

MISC:   Brooks saddle bags posted by: Edward in Vancouver on 12/14/2003 at 4:31:36 AM
Though it is the busy season, I found the time to take a peek at the new Brooks lineup. I've always wanted a gen-u-whine Brooks saddlebag, but up until now they weren't available. Even wrote to Brooks back in 2001 and asked if they made any, they replied "sadly, no." So now I'm very impressed with the 'D type' bag with the removable zippered liner. But-tum, er, 59 pounds sterling for a saddle bag as an introductory offer? Is this realistic? Will the price come down at all?

   RE:MISC: Brooks saddle bags posted by P.C. Kohler on 12/14/2003 at 3:58:04 PM
Ed, if you think getting a Brooks bag is hard now, you should have tried in the mid 1980s as I did... when they were still being made!!

I literally wrote four or five letters to Sturmey Archer (which then distributed Brooks) in both the USA and England and got nowhere. Finally, out of the blue after about a year a large parcel arrived with a brand new Leabrook and Mossbrook bag. Free. I still have them in their original plastic wrappers!

Whilst it's great to see Brooks tip-toe back into their wonderful bags, what I really fear is the company's marketing approach is to become like the Mont Blanc of bike accessories.. a lot of very fancy and just absurdly expensive "trophy" items that are more for "having" than using. Me, I just want the classic vinyl and leather bags of yore which while never cheap were functional pieces rather than objects of bespoke leather craft only the Japanese can afford.

P.C. Kohler, hoping to be proven wrong...

   RE:RE:MISC: Brooks saddle bags posted by Ward on 12/14/2003 at 6:02:11 PM
I just went on the Brooks website. It says they're coming out with a $400.00 swallow saddle. My butts not worth that much. I wonder if Lincoln wrote the Gettysburg address with a Mont Blanc(a #2 pencil would not have diluted the meaning)? The best things in our hobby are the old "bargains".

   RE:RE:RE:MISC: Brooks saddle bags posted by P.C. Kohler on 12/15/2003 at 9:47:39 PM
Yikes... I saw that too... $400?!! For a bicycle saddle?!

Today I bought on eBay a 1965 Lycett Swallow in good, used condition for £14.95

Old is Better. And a lot cheaper, too.

P.C. Kohler

WANTED:   58 Raleigh 4 speed posted by: Bruce on 12/13/2003 at 11:24:15 PM
I miss my old Raleigh! Approximately 2 years ago I sold my 58 Raleigh Superbe 4 speed to a gentleman from south Texas, he was heading into the midwest to work at a bike store I believe. If you read this. I would very much wish to purchase the bike back, hopefully you are bored with it or something. I completed the MS 150 Red River challenge in 2001 with it. (Wouldn't recommend using a 4 speed for this distance to anyone). The buyer always signed off with "happy trails". Thanks for any and all help.

   RE:WANTED:   58 Raleigh 4 speed posted by Bryan on 12/18/2003 at 11:32:51 PM
Bikes like this are meant to be bought, not sold!

   RE:RE:WANTED:   58 Raleigh 4 speed posted by Bruce on 12/20/2003 at 4:54:20 PM
Alas, only now do I realize what that bike was to me. I finished a 2 day ride of over 150 miles on that old 4 speed. Spurred on by my companions telling me that old bike was a has been. At 46 I wanted to prove that neither the bike nor myself fit that description. I will find another, but it will never have the memories of that particular bike. Let this be a lesson to anyone contemplating "making space" in the garage.

MISC:   Old German Hercules - ??? posted by: David on 12/13/2003 at 11:14:13 PM

Does this have a CAST aluminum frame? Very inneresting...

(Sellers text is wildly fantastic, but you won't want to read it all...)

   RE:MISC:   Old German Hercules - ??? posted by Edward in Vancouver on 12/14/2003 at 4:15:23 AM
Ya know,if you put some knobby 26" tires on it, it could pass for a $1000.00 suspension MTN bike... Wonder what that plate with the 4 mounting holes on the left chainstay is for, can't be for a dynamo, too close to the hub.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Old German Hercules - ??? posted by sam on 12/14/2003 at 4:40:05 AM
maybe a cyclemotor?

MISC:   Wanderer Fahrräder posted by: James on 12/13/2003 at 7:54:51 PM

For anyone interested in german stuff. I looked up Wanderer, one of the bikes featured on the brazillan webpage below, they are still around and make some beautiful bikes. www.wanderer.de most of their bikes are available with 7 or 14 speed gearhubs, hydraulic rim brakes, brooks saddles and what look like matching leather handle bar grips, polished aluminium fenders, this is the tourer, http://www.wanderer-fahrraeder.de/img/tourer_m_big.jpg
there is a sportier version call the rennrad.

to get to the pics, do to wanderer.de then klick on Wanderer Fahrräder (on the left side) then click on klassisches Programm, to see the "retro" bikes. another nice brand of bikes you cannot buy in this country

   RE:MISC:   Wanderer Fahrräder posted by James on 12/13/2003 at 9:17:13 PM
http://www.radieschen-zweiradtechnik.de/wanderer/ here are some photos of Wanderers, the photos on the right can be enlarged, they show a bike with the 14speed Rohloff hub and unusual aluminium chain cover and a derailleur model.

   RE:MISC:   Wanderer Fahrräder posted by David on 12/14/2003 at 3:54:48 AM
And click on the price list...Yow! No wonder they look so nice.