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Archived: English Roadsters

MISC:   Iraqi bikes posted by: Fred on 5/17/2003 at 2:53:44 PM
Did you see the bicycles in the TV coverage of the "late unpleasantness" in Iraq? In many of the shots of crowds receiving food or mobbing the coalition troops, a number of bikes could be seen. The ones that interested me were roadster types with 2 top tubes very close together. Some of the bikes looked to be in good condition. Does anyone know what is available in that region?

   RE:MISC:   Iraqi bikes posted by Dave on 5/17/2003 at 9:40:12 PM
Hi Fred,

I'm willing to guess the better bikes are Chinese. I have a fine green Chinese Phoenix 28" roadster that a friend brought me from Saudi Arabia. Very traditional roadster, Dunlop Valves, even has fabric rim tape. India makes a large number of bikes like that too but most of them end up in the African market. Phoenix makes a double top tube "heavy duty roadster", Forever and Flying Pidgeon - the other two major Chinese brands - probably do as well. I think some of the Indian ones are made with double top tubes too.
Same friend brought a few more back last fall...totally disassembled. I'm talking boxes of spokes and bags of ball bearings. What a chore that was!

   RE:RE:MISC:   Iraqi bikes posted by rickey on 5/20/2003 at 2:25:34 PM
i have a yamada go cool bike it was made by the yamada co. tokyo japan 1940 in excelent cond. i cant find any info about the bike due to the fact they were never imported to the u.s. how ever i found out that during the 2nd world war yamada ? went out of buisness and sold the toolings to make the bike were sold to a co. in india & they still manufacture the bike the same as in 1940 rod brakes & full cover chain guards.this bike that i have is for sale & can be shipped any where in the u.s.can send pic,s

AGE / VALUE:   Robin Hood posted by: Kara Phadael on 5/16/2003 at 9:45:07 PM
Hi, my husband picked up an old Robin Hood bike, I'm guessing 1969 from what I've learned reading this site. I was wondering if anyone could give us a rough idea of it's value. It looks to be in good condition, however the rear fender is missing. Thank you for any help you can give

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Robin Hood posted by Dick on 5/16/2003 at 10:08:53 PM
It is worth $14.95 in Florida because that is what I paid for a 1969 Robin Hood with a missing rear fender but new seat and tires yesterday. You wouldn't happen to be one of my wives, would you?

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Robin Hood posted by Kara Phadael on 5/16/2003 at 10:22:06 PM
No, not your wife, but my husband paid $5.00 in Connecticut.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Robin Hood posted by Warren on 5/16/2003 at 10:34:04 PM
Do you know why so many Sports roadsters are missing rear fenders?

To accomodate child seats. Two of the major models here in Canada...Rhode gear and Topeak require the removal of the rear fender. I've done a few installations for friends on Superbes. I'm happy to report I've either put the fenders back on or made sure the owners took it with their bikes.

I'm not one of your wives either.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Robin Hood posted by Dick on 5/17/2003 at 5:03:21 PM
Thanks for the interesting explanation for the missing rear fenders. I was about to ask and you anticipated. I also wanted to inquire about the quality-of-construction differences between the Robin Hood range and the Raleigh. I have noted that the wheels on my Superbe appear to be capable of taking a 6 inch curb (kerb?) head-on at 20 MPH; the Robin Hood wheels, on the other hand, appear marginal for carrying a loaded child-seat. The fork crowns are also different, but this just might be cosmetic. Does anone have a non-conjectural answer for me?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Robin Hood posted by David on 5/18/2003 at 11:31:21 AM
The "tubular fork crown" was a much-touted Raleigh feature. I've seen both tubular and conventional crowned forks after head-on collisions and neither seems to fail, so I doubt that this difference matters much. Also, the difference between Westwood and Endrick style wheels is probably slight. The main inherent "quality" difference (apart from components) between Raleighs/Rudges/Humbers, etc, and their 2nd-tier cousins seems to be the frame braze-ons that the more expensive ones have.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Ok Now What ? posted by: Steven J Greiner on 5/16/2003 at 3:35:41 PM
Hopin you fellas can shed a bit of light on a recent find. This is a bicycle that I found in an estate cleanout. Also found original sales receipt in attic of home. The bike was found stored in the barn of this old homestead. Serial # L 55723 Bicycle dates to 1933 using the info you folks kindly provided. The receipt is dated June 1932 tho. Sold by S.G. Shepard & Co. 26 Courtenay Street Plymouth. Any further asistance or info in regards to this Bicycle would be most welcome. Thank you in advance. Steve

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Ok Now What ? posted by Steven Greiner on 5/16/2003 at 3:53:02 PM
Additional info in regards to my last post. There are Gazelle heads on the front chain sprocket and bike has cable set up for gear shift. There is a chain that goes into the hub area this chain is attached to the cable shift lever on top bar. Bike has rod style brake assembly. Thanx Again.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Ok Now What ? posted by David on 5/18/2003 at 11:37:32 AM
Doesn't the bicycle have a brand name on the steering head at the front of the frame? Either painted on or a small badge? If you have the sales paperwork for the right serial number bike, I'd say you've already dated it more closely than anyone replying to your message can. As far as value goes, there's only one way to find out - see what someone will give you for it and it all depends on who "someone" is and how much they want your bike.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Ok Now What ? posted by paul on 5/23/2003 at 2:23:32 AM
I'm interested! is it man's frame 21 inch? is it local? Massachusetts? would you e mail photos off line? How much do you want for it? paul

AGE / VALUE:   Reproduction!!! DL-1 on Ebay posted by: Larry "Boneman" Bone on 5/15/2003 at 12:43:02 AM

NMA no affiliation...

I'm going to contact this fella... if for no other reason to see who actually MAKES that bicycle.



   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Reproduction!!! DL-1 on Ebay posted by David on 5/15/2003 at 2:34:31 AM
I guess Indian (or maybe) Chinese manufacture.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Reproduction!!! DL-1 on Ebay posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 5/16/2003 at 12:43:55 AM
Ha! You're spot on there man! The link you posted below to the Hero website.... that bike on Ebay is a Hero "Jet 22". Good SHOW man!!!!

I wonder if it would be possible to lace a SA hub into that rear wheel..... heh heh heh...


   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Reproduction!!! DL-1 on Ebay posted by Anon. on 5/16/2003 at 7:26:47 PM
Hey Boneman!!!!

What's up with all the "!!!!!"? Are you really that excited all the time or what? Your exclamation points are becoming trite. No offense intended.


   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Reproduction!!! DL-1 on Ebay posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 5/17/2003 at 1:30:25 AM
Hmmmm.... to be honest, I had not given it much thought. Perhaps, after a fashion, they are rhetorical exclamation points... in which case, yes.. .not necessary. As to offense, none taken. Perhaps I could resort to my sesquipedalian proclivities to more accurately convey my enthusiasm, but that may be interpreted as bloviation and this is not the forum for such twaddle.

Uhhh... or something.



   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Reproduction!!! DL-1 on Ebay posted by Marko on 5/18/2003 at 11:33:22 AM
Larry, You can easily lace a S/A hub to one of these, as I have done so myself. However the bike is NOT worth the price! DO NOT BUY IT! They sell new for $25 in China, and you can find them here and there brand new for $150 usually in the states, but they are not worth the money!!!!!!!

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Reproduction!!! DL-1 on Ebay posted by Me again on 5/19/2003 at 2:22:13 AM
Run do not walk away !!!!!! GET IT OUT OF YOUR MIND!!!!
However, if you insist on buying one of these, there is a guy in North Jersey who has some brand new units for sale for around $60. Double top tube, full chain case ya ta, ya ta, ya ta. If you're interested, I'll get his e=mail address for you.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Reproduction!!! DL-1 on Ebay posted by Chris on 5/19/2003 at 8:04:49 PM
Yet there are parts on these that are worth having. The rims alone from India are worth it. Tires, rear racks, enclosed chainguards too.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Reproduction!!! DL-1 on Ebay posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 5/20/2003 at 12:58:24 AM
North Jersey eh? Well, I work in North Jersey and sure, for $60? Why not take a looksee! (trying to refrain from multiple exclamation points). I would certainly not have bid on the unit on Ebay as shipping would be killer cross country for sure. Yeah, eventually, I would LOVE to have a pristine and olde DL-1, but for beating around on the rail trails, etc. That and showing the tight pants "veloheads" at work what a "Classic" roadster IS...

Greatly appreciated! If this person does not want their address going "public" on this forum, just shoot it to my yahoo address above.



ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   AMF Conqueror posted by: Larry "Boneman" Bone on 5/15/2003 at 12:20:23 AM

NMA, No affiliation.

A MOST interesting roadster. OK... purportedly it's made in India and S.A. equipped. If it were on the East Coast, I would definitely go for it.



   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   AMF Conqueror posted by David on 5/15/2003 at 2:42:00 AM
Made in India??!! Maybe, but I would be surprised. In India I never saw a Sports model. See www.herocycles.com for typical Indian roadsters.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   AMF Conqueror posted by sam on 5/16/2003 at 3:05:27 PM
I've got a sports model from India---sam

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Hercules on Ebay posted by: Larry "Boneman" Bone on 5/15/2003 at 12:15:17 AM

NMA. No affiliation.

Kinda rough... and I'm wondering if the fenders are stock...



AGE / VALUE:   This always happens posted by: Chris on 5/14/2003 at 6:07:14 PM
Spotting a pair of wheels I finally pull up and over to take a quick look.
What's it going to be? Anything good? A moment of anticipation and suspense before it comes into focus.
Bah!! Columbia 10 speed and a Sears or Wards 3 speed with a Shimano hub and shifter. Junk bikes of yesterday.
No Hercules or Raleigh, not a Robin Hood.
I'll keep on looking.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   This always happens posted by Oscar on 5/17/2003 at 2:09:24 AM
I heard a rumor that every 50th Wards three-speed was made with solid gold crank spindles and pedal axles. It's worth looking into.

AGE / VALUE:   Sheldon's new look!( Surprise at home base!) posted by: Chris on 5/14/2003 at 5:59:46 PM
The page loaded quickly as usual. I literally jumped! YAAAA!
He's bald! Where is the hat? This must be the summer picture!
A different expression too.
Is it the same guy?
Anyways, best wishes Sheldon!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Sheldon's new look!( Surprise at home base!) posted by David on 5/15/2003 at 2:30:27 AM
Sheldon's bravery is very impressive. There's been a ton of kidding on other Boston bike lists. Now that I'm balding, I think I'd be more afraid of the sunburn I might get than the ribbing I'd take if I did something like that.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Sheldon's new look!( Surprise at home base!) posted by Stacey on 5/15/2003 at 11:21:23 AM
To tell the truth I thought it was Michael Chikles (sp)... Det. Vic Makey on 'The Shield' staring back at me. Looks GREAT Sheldon... gotta be much more aero, probably good for another 3 or 4 MPH on top end, eh?

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Sheldon's new look!( Surprise at home base!) posted by Ken on 5/16/2003 at 6:50:10 PM
Among those of us who are 'losing it', this is known as a pre-emptive strike. However, I suspect this is actually a photo of Carapace C. Umber.

FOR SALE:   need to sell posted by: rickey on 5/14/2003 at 2:32:14 PM
centurion ironman dave scott signature 58cm red & silver hasent ben riden much looks new 350.00 + s&h 20.00 also a cannondale mtb with girvin front end 250.00 + S&H 20.00 SHIP ANYWHERE IN U.S.can send photo's both have new tires & tubes 334-756-7561 leave a message if not open if interested i have lots of old bikes need to sell

AGE / VALUE:   unknown bike posted by: michael kerk on 5/14/2003 at 5:57:43 AM
i cant find where or when this bike was made or its vale. the bike looks very much like a 50's raligh, the plaque says
"NO.1" F.K.I. CO. LTD. the serial # is rf50278. the bike has rod brakes that are all brass, the fenders and enclosed chain guard are copper, the leather seat is hung by circular
springs, the tires are 26x1 3/8 and made by iwao rubber co.
any info would be appreciated.wish i could send picture

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   headset wrenches posted by: Frank in Boise on 5/14/2003 at 2:51:12 AM
What does one use in the way of headset wrenches with old Raleigh and related bikes?

On several 50's - 70's bikes I measured the following approximate dimensions:
large nut with bearing race underneath: 41 mm
locking nut on '59 Sports: 33.5 mm
locking nut on newer Robin Hood and Triumph: 30.5 mm

These dimensions are somewhat close to the following inch sizes:
1 5/8, 1 5/16, 1 3/16

They do not match the headset wrenches which I commonly see for sale, which are 30, 32, 36, and 40 mm.

Have I goofed or what? Does one need a set of vintage headset wrenches? Maybe someone with an old repair manual can clarify this for me!


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   headset wrenches posted by David on 5/14/2003 at 10:42:58 AM
Don't those "swiss cheese" wrenches that were included with new Raleighs have the appropriate openings for these nuts? You see them from time to time on ebay. (Ask about the particular size you need, though! Sounds like they differ by year.)

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   headset wrenches posted by Warren on 5/14/2003 at 12:33:56 PM
Even when you have the right wrench it is often a loose fit. If you plan on doing bikes on a regular basis then get the 4 metric sizes...use a rag to take up any slack.

However...a great big HIGH QUALITY adjustable wrench is the most useful tool you'll ever have. Cheap ones are the worst tool you'll ever own. I have a vintage 18 " wrench I inherited form my Grandad and I use it to remove Raleigh fixed cups (along with a jig). For those odd headsets with no flats you will need large large mouth plumbers
pliers. Always protect the metal with a rag.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   headset wrenches posted by Chris on 5/14/2003 at 5:37:33 PM
Yes, the "swiss cheese" wrenches fit the Raleigh headset.
Today these sell for 10.00 each. Back in the day, I picked them up by the box full. It's a handy little tool.
The older wrenches and spanners are awesome.

Warrens advice is excellent as usual.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   headset wrenches posted by Chris on 5/14/2003 at 5:48:05 PM
Actually, the large screwed top nut, the one underneath the spacer or lamp bracket, there is no Raleigh spanner that fits that. Not that I have seen. I think perhaps there was and that I have not seen it yet. You just screwed it home by hand. The top nut fits the swiss cheese spanner and that you use the spanner on.
I use rubber covered adjustable wrenches. with that large top nut.

I remember the Snap -On fellow ( whom everybody in the area hated and hated to have to deal with and folks switched to Mac en masse because of him.) Anyways, he wouldn't sell the Snap on tool, the recent Schwinn bicycle tools and I went over and around his his head and bought them up anyways.It was a trophy thing that I don't think I have ever used.
There were all sorts of tool for use with these bikes we talk about. These get thrown out all the time because folks today don't know what they do or go to or that folks pay for these tools.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   headset wrenches posted by Frank on 5/15/2003 at 11:12:12 PM
I guess I'll follow your advice and try the metric fixed wrenches, but I'm still curious as to what the nominal sizes on the Raleigh headsets were... I had thought of using large Crescent wrenches, but one needs two big ones (if one wants to hold the bearing race while tightening the locking nut). I still think the best / most convenient method would be to have two fixed wrenches of the correct sizes. Maybe an undersized wrench could be filed out to the perfect size...

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   headset wrenches posted by Clyde on 5/16/2003 at 2:07:44 AM
Hey why not make a 41 mm wrench, or better yet buy a Park Tool HCW-99 with 31 and 40 mm ends as a start. I mounted it in a big bench vise, then carefully filed the 40 mm opening to around 41 mm using the Raleigh headset nut as a guide until a good fit was achieved. The HCW-99 is listed in their Blowout and Discontinued Items section for only $3.00 go to:


Sure beats bulky Cresent wrenches that I used in the past.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   headset wrenches posted by Frank on 5/16/2003 at 5:15:47 AM
That's great! I ordered the 40 mm wrench from Park and have another 30/32 en route. Am ready to begin filing!

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: headset wrenches posted by Bill on 5/16/2003 at 10:21:49 PM
Has anyone figured out if Raliegh used Whitworth sizing on the older bicycles? I run into it on an infrequent basis on both bicycle and motorcycles pre-war adn early post.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: headset wrenches posted by Warren on 5/19/2003 at 10:18:58 PM
I can'r say I've encountered Whitworth on Raleighs but I've seen it on earlier Hercules bikes.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   24" DL1 on ebay posted by: David on 5/14/2003 at 12:17:05 AM
NMA - fairly good late production DL1 in LA...


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   24 posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 5/14/2003 at 1:32:33 AM
H,mmmmmm..... I will inquire about shipping... if not too much, I may bid on that baby. What would be a reasonable amount for the bike itself?



AGE / VALUE:   Paving stone posted by: Chris on 5/13/2003 at 11:38:35 PM
These are squares of cement with polished stones on top. They put it in town by the parking meters. One little kid, in sneakers after a rain and a nasty fall resulted. Kid's alright. I remember the nasty spill I took off of the bike on stone like that. One has to watch out for wet brick and stonework that was cheap to buy and looks pretty but is dangerous for pedestrians and cyclists. All those doors opening up and the drivers are so high up. I wonder if more cyclists are getting injured/ killed now that everybody is driving S.U.V.'s?

WANTED:   Info on Armstrong Triplex posted by: Ian on 5/13/2003 at 9:09:23 AM
Hi, A friend has just offered me a ladies bike fitted with an Armstrong Triplex rear hub and a quadrant type changer mounted on the top tube of the "C" type frame.Of interest is the fact that when the cable is in its slack position the hub is in low gear, the opposite to Sturmey Archer. Judging by the bottom bracket bearings being held in by cotters, the fact that all brightwork is nickel and various other indicators we think it is probably pre-1920. Can anybody tell me anything about these hubs such as who they were made by and over what period? The bike has only one readable transfer which says "Fitted with Armstrong Triplex Gear" but as the chainwheel has a series of small letter A's around it we wonder if it could be an Armstrong bike so any info on these most (manufacturer, years in business etc) welcome also. Thanks in anticipation, Ian.

   RE:WANTED:   Info on Armstrong Triplex posted by Chris on 5/13/2003 at 11:14:15 PM
The book: The Dancing Chain, history and developement of the derailer bicycle. This will have the answers you seek.
Authors are: Frank Berto and Raymond Henry

   RE:RE:WANTED:   Info on Armstrong Triplex posted by Ian on 5/14/2003 at 9:34:49 AM
Chris, Last time I tried I could not get a copy of "The Dancing Chain" from Amazon or anywhere else, new or used and I often see wanted adds in the cycle club journals for it. I did manage to get a copy sent to me from our National Library through the town library. This was some time ago and the old memory aint what it used to be but I am sure the book only dealt with derailleur gears whereas the Armstrong is a hub gear which is what makes it interesting. One does not see many hub gears that are not Sturmey or B.S.A. I have had one email reply from England that suggested the bike might be as early as 1910. Thanks, Ian.

   RE:RE:RE:WANTED:   Info on Armstrong Triplex posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 5/14/2003 at 5:56:46 PM
Then I hope it goes without saying that you purchased the cycle and the hub.
E- mail Tony Hadland at hadland.net
Hilary Stone (who sells on e- bay and his web address I don't have) and Pete Reid of Phoenix hub gear repairs.
There is a small group of beloved old school fellows and you have graduated up to their league with this one.
I didn't dream Dancing Chain was so hard to find. Also, as you kinda said. It didn't delve into vintage hub gears as far as we would have liked.
Tony Hadland is your man! He can steer you towards the folks you want to talk with.
Wasn't there supposed to be a newer and updated version of Dancing Chain?

Keep us posted, please. I'm drooling here!

AGE / VALUE:   Electrolytic Rust Removal Debauchery.... posted by: Larry "Boneman" Bone on 5/11/2003 at 11:26:02 PM
So, I get myself a tub and put the water and the baking soda in there... stick the rim from the doggone Phillips in there... hook the positive lead from the battery charger to the rim and the negative to an "anode" immersed in the water...

Well, suffice it to say.... stripped a good portion of the chrome off the rim right down to the copper underplating....

Any clues gang? Methinks mayhap too much current.... :-[



   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Electrolytic Rust Removal Debauchery.... posted by Jeff R on 5/12/2003 at 11:33:24 AM
I was going to try that method myself. I'm glad I didn't get around to it. If you fine tune it and get it to work properly let me know. How long did you leave it hooked up? Did you use the fast charge or trickle charge mode?

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   No more re- plating for me, ma. posted by Chris on 5/13/2003 at 12:16:47 AM
I have lost faith that anybody will be ale to do a proper re- chrome job and I could not withstand the bad experience of spending money only to get it back all lifting and chipping and a poorly done re-plating job would not be good for me.
So these rare- as- all -heck, lovely rims will sit in the box.
I am not going to do anything with them and the project sits in pieces and it will never be finished.
I would march in there with old time catalogs that tell about two hour nickel baths and I would annoy them silly until they toss me into the dip tank along with the rims.
Or they'd deliberately lose or damage stuff. I'd rub them the wrong way and I'd be sorry.
I would be in there grabbing polishing tools and begging them to let me operate the machinery so I could be sure the proper amount of prep and polish work would be done. I would be saying. "But fellas, I'm the customer!" They would be saying "Get him outta here!"

I just couldn't take it if these came back all messed over and done poorly. I have been to shows and seen some of the work that some of the fellows turn out and it isn't good enough for me.

I am looking for somebody who restores vintage cars and when I have found somebody I respect I'll explain it and let that person handle the re- chroming for me and I'll ask him or her to over see it. I might say something and put my foot in the project otherwise. This electrollytic project sounds interesting but please be careful with it.
These are the rims that I wonder how a bone- head like me ever got a set of these in the first place! The answer is just persistent and lucky I guess.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Electrolytic Rust Removal Debauchery.... posted by Edward in Vancouver on 5/13/2003 at 3:19:00 AM
I do know that most chroming places use a very similar process that you described to remove old chrome from items to be re-chromed. Best bet, leave the electro stuff alone and go for a process I un-ashamedly endorse: Oxalic acid bath. It's safe, mild, fairly cheap, and produces great results. You can even use it to get rid of the rust/crud thats rotating around and around in the box sections of your rims, no other process can do this.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:  Spring adverntures posted by Chris on 5/13/2003 at 11:36:40 PM
Yup, $456.33!
We have the remanufactured alternator in the car and we charged you for new. No, we left the old belt on it. The 20 something you wanted us to charge you for a new belt to go on there, we charged you that anyways for shop supplies which we didn't need or use this time. No, no new belt. We put the old belt back on there. If that breaks, come back, or have it towed back after it strands you. ( It'll strand me in Egypt too!) We'll charge you again to install that new belt. It was only 2 1/2 hours of labor to install the new alternator. We don't have to listen to you even though you are the paying customer and it's your vehicle. Oh, gee, well,.... we forgot! I don't know if there are any burrs on the new pulley. You'll find out if there were as the burr will chew up your old belt. New pulley, old belt. Yes, it does make sense. You're all set, have a nice day!
Oh, by the way, DUDE! you need a heater core!
Thats $1454.88 out the door and we need you to pay up front/cash for the part.
I thought of my rims sitting there in the box and that is something that didn't get messed up because I have not taken them in. More lame excuses are: bad back, need a driver, no room, three weeks, all stacked up. If we let you have easily to understand service material and if you were able to repair it at home, yourself you would not need to throw money at us all the time and well, we couldn't have that. Could we?
Oh the simple, wonderful, little reliable bicycle.
If only we had enclosed cabin bicycles with wipers and heaters and could reasonably operate one in the winter.