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Archived: English Roadsters

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Le Fabrique Raleigh posted by: Jacques on 9/11/2003 at 7:03:43 PM

Tres Interesant!

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   La Fabrique Raleigh posted by Jacques on 9/11/2003 at 7:24:37 PM
Aussi, pour toute le monde!


   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   La Fabrique Raleigh posted by Chris on 9/11/2003 at 7:47:55 PM
Very good. I was hoping to see some newer pictures.

AGE / VALUE:   Fitting S-A hubs between the rear dropouts posted by: David Poston on 9/11/2003 at 6:39:18 PM
You may or may not remember, but I posted recently about S/A hubs having different locknut/washer arrangements. I first thought that the hubs came this way from the factory, but I think I found the answer here at Tony Hadland's site:


In the 1956 master catalogue, under "Fitting," it states:

"The over-all width of Sturmey-Archer rear hubs over the cone locknuts, as supplied from the Works, is 4 5/16". If necessary, it can be REDUCED to 4 1/16" by removing the spacing washer on the left-hand side and the cone locknut on the right-hand side..."

This is the solution I was looking for! I was trying to figure out why my DL-1's had the cone locknut removed on the right-hand side, and now I understand. I don't feel so bad now that I did this to fit my rear AG dyno-three inside the rear dropouts on my DL-1.


FOR SALE:   New High Price For Raleigh posted by: Tom on 9/11/2003 at 3:00:03 PM

A new high for a Raleigh bike on ebay. The "buy it now" is a little out of my range. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3626592857

   RE:FOR SALE:   New High Price For Raleigh posted by P.C. Kohler on 9/11/2003 at 9:09:35 PM
Not amused.. this nit-wit does this all the time with his listings and eBay needs to take action. It is just possible for someone to press the one key and... well... Anyway, it's not amusing and it's not a mistake. It's just stupid.

P.C. Kohler

MISC:   paint removal posted by: red on 9/11/2003 at 12:32:59 PM
I am planning to buy a green (Raleigh brand) front lamp from a reputable seller. I was told that black (the color I wanted) was the base coat for these lamps and that I ought to be able to remove the green coat from the lamp. Is this possible to do without harming the black? Is it something an unskilled hand should do? Any suggestions as far as methods go?

   RE:MISC:   paint removal posted by Warren on 9/11/2003 at 10:41:20 PM
I doubt you will be able to strip it without damaging the undercoat.

What kind of lamp is this for what year/model of bike? Any pictures on the net? I think the guy is feeding you a line,,,

MISC:   Wild 3 Speed, Ebay posted by: Demarest on 9/11/2003 at 7:32:58 AM
Item # 3626474170

Not the seller or related.

   RE:MISC:   Wild 3 Speed, Ebay posted by edgarecks on 9/11/2003 at 7:34:59 PM
If you like that one, check out this: http://groups.msn.com/KustomCruisers/customschwinns.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=340
I want to sell it, don't want to ship it, though.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1925 Raleigh? posted by: Chris on 9/11/2003 at 6:04:29 AM
Recently I rescued close to 20 bikes from an elderly fellow. After checking the serial charts here I think that one of the bikes, which has been painted black with white fenders and chain gaurd, is a 1925 Raleigh. The only problem is that the rear hub is a single-speed Perry, not a 3-speed S.A.! The seat was missing, but there is a number stamped into the seat tube as well. No badge, and a bad paint-job makes this a hard one to determine. Anybody have any ideas?

AGE / VALUE:   High price on nice '65 Raleigh Sports posted by: Greg on 9/10/2003 at 9:58:10 PM
Prices seem to keep going up on these, a few hours left and this '65 Sports is up to $510. (ebay # 3625398028) It may even fetch more than the '67 sports that went for $765. in April.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   High price on nice '65 Raleigh Sports posted by ron on 9/11/2003 at 12:37:09 AM
This is crazy, I would be reluctant to spend a tenth of it’s current price !!!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   High price on nice '65 Raleigh Sports posted by Smitty on 9/11/2003 at 2:57:00 AM
I thought we already went over this its called suply and demand .
By the way did they use these style of grips in 51. Because that is what I found for my wife's Lenton sport already mounted on a bar and stem. The look to be brand new take off's.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   High price on nice '65 Raleigh Sports posted by Demarest on 9/11/2003 at 7:44:58 AM
I see, the men's bikes often go for these high dollars, similar women's bikes seems less. It just appears that to me.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   High price on nice '65 Raleigh Sports posted by Mike on 9/11/2003 at 11:47:05 AM
These are really in demand in the Boston area, a friend of mine has been getting $200-300 for every one he finds, $100 plus for beat up rusty ones barely useable for parts!

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: High price on nice '65 Raleigh Sports posted by P.C. Kohler on 9/11/2003 at 12:31:18 PM
OK, it's the marketplace and all that.. but this is MADNESS!! Already I've see an eBay listing for a DL-1 (rare! RARE!.. etc.) crowing over this absurd winning bid. And it is absurd. Free and fair. Still absurd.

More absurd is that no one really makes a replacement for the Sports in quality, elegance and utility. Or character. So maybe this and other absurdities on eBay isn't about price but about the market. A market for real bicycles ridden by real folks. Sometime needs to get a factory going again in Nottingham (and please spare me the nonsense that the Indians and Chinese can make a worthy replacement for the Sports!!)

P.C. Kohler, who sold his mint '66 Sports for $25 in 1974 (they were fetching a pretty penny even then!!)

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: High price on nice '65 Raleigh Sports posted by red on 9/11/2003 at 12:50:06 PM
Speaking of expensive DL1s, I ran into someone last night who was assembling the mint 70s DL1 he just got at the cost of shipping (CT to MN) plus a $5 finders fee. I was willing to offer him over triple what he paid, but he has been searching for one of them for twice as long as I have.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: High price on nice '65 Raleigh Sports posted by Bryan Masone on 9/11/2003 at 7:25:40 PM
A DL1 shipped from CT to MN, when I scour the state of CT every weekend lookin for such finds!!?! Proof that the Gods sometimes just do this to push me over the edge.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: High price on nice '65 Raleigh Sports posted by Chris on 9/11/2003 at 7:32:55 PM
This is the basic bike.
No 531 frame, no special or rare hub, it is not a hybrid with the Cyclo cog, Does it have a bell or lights/ Even if it did, still.
The bag?

The rear bag could go for 100.00 just for that alone. Still this bag is not the older style/ older materials and those are the ones to watch out for.
The bag is the wild card.

This is good to see, the last time I picked up one of these for 50.00 the seller was so completely nasty and awful it was not a fun experience for me.
A second run in at the market and the worst, nasty, dig- in, slanderous insults in a long time. I stood there amazed. It was not because he was upset about the price I gave for the bikes. That was fine w/ him.
No, I cannot think what I did to offend this person. I chalked it up to the person being off medication or the after effects of a stroke.
Yes, I hope when I sell this bike that mine gets $580.00 or whatever too. I would like that. I'll offer this one with the bad past experience first.
Does this mean I need to grab the ladies Raleigh Sports in green for 40?
What about the Dunelt and Triumph bikes in the basement?
those are about 35.00 each and are not perfect.
This does not happen enough, this is a fluke. I am still being as careful as I can in acquiring these being watchful not to over spend.
Yes, still picking up as many of these as I can.
I picked up the Dunelt and the tools and the oil cans too.
I got a bargain but like I said the seller was awful!

You can do better in this with that kind of money but somebody (or somebodys) thinks differently.
It's a good bike, a commuter bike and to many folks it is golden and cherished and if they stop to speak with you they will tighten up their grip on it and tell you it is not for sale.

I am trying not to think about what all is being heaved out into the tip or rivers in England.

I'm wanting to go on to other bikes, new, unconquered territory, the next thing to chase. I'm still surprised that these fetch this amount and I'll keep picking them up when I see these for 50.00 or so.

It's not the money, there is a thrill in just finding these. I break out in a run to be the first to grab it.
I like to overhaul them and hang them up.
The riders, the ones I spend time on are the most magical ones in the fleet. The ones with the prettiest colors and choicest equipment. The 531 model frames.
The Humber 28 inch rod braker with the 9 speed Cyclo set up like Sam here did with his bike.

The trails, the cider mill!
Soon winter will be here.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: High price on nice '65 Raleigh Sports posted by Chris on 9/11/2003 at 7:44:36 PM
The recent blackout scared folks. Gasoline was unavailable for 3 days.
The stores were stripped. Water went down. There was a boil alert. Traffic was bumper to bumper . Everybody who had gas headed for the freeway. They warned against the use of candles. Did this affect the bike market? I don't know.
I saved a lady from opening up a hot radiator and kept her from being really burned. The ambulance would have had a hard time getting to her. Thankfully she listened to me.
I spoke with her and she said to me that she had no one. No family, just her church. I gave her food.
There was a bike out at the kerb with a $50.00 sign on it and the owner changed his mind and brought it back into the house!

This Raleigh Sports on e- bay is a "city bike" So I would guess where ever this will wind up somebody wants it for use a real every day transportation.

This is what is powering the comback of Vespa. Before you spend $2,500.00 on a push bike remember you can have a new Vespa
Next summer, I ride the re- habbed old Vespa more!
Have you seen the new ones?

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: High price on nice '65 Raleigh Sports posted by Chris on 9/11/2003 at 8:11:08 PM
Sometimes "the gods" drop a ton of stuff in your lap when you least expect it and you are caught without any money or not enough money on your person or the bloomin bank is closed. It's a Sunday!
Then somebody else walks up and buys it all and you loose.
You carry 'mad money' on you?
I do. That 's not where it will go wrong for me. I'll get there too late, drop it, go slidding(falling) down the stairs, damage the bike, tear a scratch in the door or wall trying to get it up and out of the basement and to the car.
The person who owns it is out of town, has died, or been kidnapped by exerterestials and so I have to wait and wait and wait some more.

Or I'll hear: "We'll never get it down out of the attic. It'll be too hot, too cold, they're indecisive.
The biggest worst thing that I always run into is that it's buried under mounds of stuff and they won't let me dig it out. So we sit there and look at it.
If they will only sell it to a good Catholic than I'm a Catholic. If only to a Protestant then I'm a fellow Lutheran, Baptist or whatever. Never met any Bhuddists that won't sell a bike to a non Bhuddaist but that may be next.

When I am old and sitting in my wheelchair in the home and cantankerous and not caring about old bikes the phone will ring endlessly with folks wanting to give these to me.

"You stopped in 57 years ago and I told you no, Do you still want it?"
Or if I do still want it just to look at I'll be unable to get to the phone in time!
That happens too!
Dripping wet, with soap in my hair, I take the call to go see the bike they are offering me.

There was a time when I would not look at any bike that was not a 28 inch rod brake. I would ask on the phone and would be disapointed that it turned out that it was not a 28 inch wheel but instead it was a 26 inch wheel.
These high prices have drove me back into collecting the Raleigh Sports type bike with the 26 inch wheels and cable brakes.

AGE / VALUE:   Does Anybody Know? posted by: GMS on 9/10/2003 at 8:17:05 PM
I have this old Phillips bike, when i found it it was in bad shape and incomplete. I was wondering how old it is. I have pictures at http://granmastasplash.tripod.com/gms/id1.html
No this bike is not being rebuilt as it was, i dont have the parts, and alot of what was on the bike was shot. The pictures i have up are not exactally what its going to turn out like, its when i had all the parts together in a rebuild state. I am in the process of painting it now. Take a look and let me know if you have any info on this bike Thanks.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Does Anybody Know? posted by Seamus on 9/10/2003 at 8:31:10 PM
Tell us! How does it ride????? Has it been fixed up enough for that???

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Does Anybody Know? posted by Seamus on 9/10/2003 at 8:32:14 PM
By the way,they got some handsome badge out of Nottingham.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Does Anybody Know? posted by GMS on 9/10/2003 at 8:39:04 PM
I have riden it a bit before i dissambled it. I also updated my site as you were likely looking at it. Take a look again. It may ride differenrly because of all the new parts on it. But the headbadge is great! I love it! as well at the decals! (which i am NOT painting over!)

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Does Anybody Know? posted by Seamus on 9/10/2003 at 8:57:53 PM
I didn't even notice earlier, it is a five speed, derailer . Looks in pretty good shape too, imho.

AGE / VALUE:    Many improvements you can do to your old 3 speed posted by: humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 9/10/2003 at 7:42:53 PM
Two improvements you can make to the old English 3 speed are:

Remove the rear wheel and with a thin screwdriver remove the lock ring and remove the too- small 18 tooth cog that the bike came with.
These cogs came in different sizes and the larger the cog the lower and easier to pedal the bike is.
These cogs were made from 11 tooth all the way up to 22 tooth size. There is a 24 tooth cog available now and you can get away with using that if you want to.
I recommend that you put on a 22 tooth cog and add some lengths of chain.
This was the bike is much more enjoyable and you can travel further.
You can use 2 nd gear for plain riding and you have a lower 1 st gear for hills and 3 rd gear for faster riding. This is the way the bikes should have come from the makers.
This way the Sturmey- Archer 3 speed A.W. gear is actually usuable to the general public.
The bike companies supplied the bikes with an 18 tooth gear as standard. Many folks were not told that they could change that rear sprocket up to a 20, 22, or a 24 tooth cog.

Also, we now have bicycle tubes in 26 X 1 3/8 size that have a better valve. The presta type valve can be found with some looking about in the size for the basic 3 speed wheel.
This way, the tires holds air better.
Presta valves are better than car type Schrader valves.
Use a rubber grommet from the fawcet repair section of the hardware store and use the metal screw type holder fould in the presta valve tube assembly.

Alloy rims are available in 26 X 1 3/8 th's size.
A company called Kool stop makes replacement brakes.
I'll bet your old original brakes are all hardened up.
Replace them!

You can replace brake cables and ferrules.

Replacement parts are available.
Shifters, hubs and hub innards, cones, axles, handlebar grips, any odd misc parts can be found.

You can overhaul the headset and it'll glide and ride like a new bike!

Those nasty cotter pins can be removed and replaced. You can overhaul the bottombraket. Regrease and or/ replace those parts as well!

Rotted and worn out tires replaced.
New Brooks and everything else Seats can be replaced.

Light kits replaced and bulbs replaced. We have a company called Reflectalite and they sell Halogen bulbs that fit you old Sturmey- Archer dynohub.
You can buy new armetures here for the dynohub.
There is somebody here who can re- magnitize the dynohub for you. Have you seperated the magnet from the keeper and now it don't work so hot?
Let us know.

We sell parts here for these bikes.
We have been into every aspect and angle of these bikes and there are a lot of folks here.
Shop's reccommended, people and personalities to ask for help.
Think You cannot get parts? You are wrong.

Did they tell you that:
You cannot get parts for this bike of yours?

And that's the truth.

It is amazing how these can be brought back to life. How wonderfully they ride and how nice it can look again.
The British chrome on these will come out lovely after a bit of cleaning and we can tell you how to do that too.

   RE:AGE / VALUE: Suggestion posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 9/10/2003 at 8:36:02 PM
Lets do this. It would make it easier.
I would like to see a permanent section here at Old Roads with the addresses, phone numbers and web site addresses and e- mail addresses of the various companies and shops who supply, repair, and deal with these marvelous bicycles.

Who all the important people are who can help out. Who sells what.
An actual directory list on who does what.
Who sells this or that.
Broken down into the catagories. English 3 speeds, Balloon and Middleweight, e.t.c.

Where to go for tires. The various shops and web folks.
The address and web e- mail address for reflectalite posted up someplace here so if you need a bulb you pull up that sheet here and e- mail them or whatever and Voilla!
You get your new bulb in the mail in 7 days or less.
Like that, but for everything.

We can fill in the gaps. We can have more than one source or company for each item.

In time, we can have all the information posted and re-construct the infrastructure of this that has been lost. Shops and places so interest in these can really grow.

Lets get down to re- manufacturing the hard to replace things.
Who does that?
Lets crack the paint codes, match it. Stop this tapping around in the dark.
Restore these bikes. Make it easy. explain and enable and tell folks whom to go to if they want to spend money and have that done for them.
Post it.
Post the names of companies who can sell you the paint. How to buy it already spectrographed.
Where to go for Chrome plate that is done well.

A whole section w/ pictures on how to overhaul a headset bracket. How to tighten and recognize Raleigh from Phillips.

Then another page with pictures on bottombrackets, how to do that there.

And so on.

The basic maintence and repair of these machines. Then we can delve into the lost history, the interviews, the pictures, and so on.

Take every blooming old bicycle catalog we can lay hands on and scan it and post it on the web.

I was in a shop and they told the customer.
" Oh you cannot get parts for that."
They were wrong.

I mentioned that they must not have heard of Sheldon Brown.com and Oldroads.com

I took the business card and on the back she jotted down this information.

Suddenly, she was happy. The old bike could be fixed, parts found and the bike brought back to life like when it was new. If she did not get ahold of either Sheldon or here at Oldroads.com I know for certain that others have.
The point is to further the interest in these marvelous old bikes.
Enable people to enjoy one for the first time or to help somebody who has had one for some time be able to continue.
Sell parts and accessories. Maintain and improve the profitable business in repairing bicycles.
I think you get the general drift of what I am trying to say.

Did I mention that these bikes are collectable and are a decent mean of transportation?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:    Many improvements you can do to your old 3 speed posted by David Poston on 9/10/2003 at 8:40:57 PM

My Rudge Sports came with a 16-tooth cog, now replaced with a 19-tooth cog (borrowed from a Raleigh DL-1 back wheel). It rides much nicer. The only problem is that my chain is too short, so I will have to get a longer chain to seat the rear axle mid-way in the dropouts.

I found the ultimate tool for removing those annoying circlips, by the way:


If you look real hard in good auto parts stores, you can find these "lock ring pliers." With just a screwdriver, there will be a lot of cursing and hurt fingers.

Now, about those rims...Who is making these alloy 26 x 1 3/8 rims, and do they match up to the old Dunlop/Sturmey Archer ones?

One more thing...Did you ever get a chance to mail me that literature on S/A hubs? I didn't ever receive it. In the near future, I will try to overhaul both my front and rear hubs (rear especially). I've already done bottom brackets, headsets, and pedals (in progress), so I'm ready to move to hubs.


   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:    Many improvements you can do to your old 3 speed posted by P.C. Kohler on 9/10/2003 at 9:22:01 PM
Hey, Roll Britannia already has a Data Base for suppliers/restorers etc. but... it's empty! Waiting to be filled.

And David Poston... you dare put alloy rims on your classic roadsters, you'd better never complain about my passion for club bikes over roadsters again!! Remember it's Ride Awheel on Sheffield STEEL (and Rhodesian chrome) not Asian Alloy.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:    Many improvements you can do to your old 3 speed posted by Brian on 9/10/2003 at 9:35:37 PM
My ten cents repeated here again - I have absolutely no trouble removing those S/A hub circlips with needle nose pliers that most of us have already - just put the closed needle nose pliers in the "gap" and open the pliers, this will spread the circlip easily so that it pops off. As for rims, Sun makes the alloy CR-18 rims in 32/36/40 drillings -if you remove the decals from the them, you'll have very nice braking for your English Hub gear bike. Don't ever reuse old spokes/nipples on new rims either! Make sure your brake pads are in good condition with supple rubber.. old, dried-out brake pads don't belong on your bike.

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:    Many improvements you can do to your old 3 speed posted by David Poston on 9/10/2003 at 9:43:36 PM

Were alloy rims ever an option...even on club bikes? Don't worry, I'll probably stick to good ole Dunlop steel for the time being. The only Asian-made rims my bikes will be wearing in the near future are black-enameled 28" x 1.5" Westwood steel from COY (made in India).


   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:    Many improvements you can do to your old 3 speed posted by sam on 9/10/2003 at 11:48:13 PM
Alum. rims were on Sunbeams in 1920!(kinda like the era David would like his Rodester to be)---sam

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Many improvements you can do to your old 3 speed posted by P.C. Kohler on 9/11/2003 at 12:00:25 AM
David, yes alloy rims were offered on the Raleigh Clubman but only in 1949. These were 26 x 1 1/4" Dunlops. Lovely riding; I rather prefer them to the Dunlop high pressure 27 x 1/4" steel ones on my '51 Clubman. Other British club bikes had alloy rims as well, but the trend was to lightweight steel and stainless steel.

As for alloy rims on Sunbeams in the 1920s, I am intrigued! Love to see the catalogue listing this. If they did, they were even more unique and wonderful than we dared imagine. Alloy anything in the 1920s was rare as heck and reserved for things like the GRAF ZEPPELIN not roadsters one would think.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Many improvements you can do to your old 3 speed posted by Warren on 9/11/2003 at 3:02:55 AM
Hilary Stone had a pair of those Dunlop alloy EA1 rims up for auction last week. Did I ever want those.

I have once before mentioned the 1959 Raleigh Sports I got from the thrift store. It had EA3 alloy Westrick rims marked "Sulloy" on them. They appear to be period correct beacuse of the style and the heft of them. They are very thick in section and likely weigh as much or more than the Dunlop chromed brethren. And they really do stop quickly.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Many improvements you can do to your old 3 speed posted by Chris on 9/12/2003 at 12:21:59 AM
My Dunlop 26 X 1 1/4's have grooves worn in the sides from the owner before me who did not keep an eye on them and allowed the shoes to rub deep scratches into them.

These look bad but are still usuable I would imagine.
They are for display at this stage.
Very seldom seen except for our pal Hilary Stone and a few others who seem to be able to conjure these up and other rare goodies too.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:    Many improvements you can do to your old 3 speed posted by Humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 9/12/2003 at 12:37:53 AM
David, in the near future you can overhaul three hubs instead of just two, as I have a used but in good shape A.G. three speed dynohub I'm a gonna gift to you.

As soon as I find your address . I think I have it on the table, somewhere. I have the box and it's slated to be sent to you.
Diagrams and interchange chart also.
Send me your post address again.

MISC:   Bell Crank On Left Side posted by: Tommaso on 9/10/2003 at 2:56:14 AM
Did a double take, I am sure it is not that irregular, caught my eye on a 3 speed I saw.

   RE:MISC:   Bell Crank On Left Side posted by Tommaso on 9/10/2003 at 4:06:15 AM
ah-ha, this is why their are left hand controls available for 3 speeds, I would wager, kind of cool.

   RE:MISC:   Bell Crank On Left Side posted by Steve on 9/10/2003 at 3:12:38 PM
It might have been a 5-speed Sturmey-Archer. The original S5 had a bellcrank on the left side to control the shifting sun gears, and a conventional indicator chain on the right controlling the basic 3-speed shift. The later S5-1 and S5-2 (both of which I use and like a great deal) use indicator chains on both sides.

   RE:MISC:   Bell Crank On Left Side posted by edgarecks on 9/10/2003 at 7:11:00 PM
Shimano 3 speeds with coaster brake have the bellcrank on the left side, noncoasters are on the right. Perhaps this is what you saw.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Bell Crank On Left Side posted by Titlist on 9/10/2003 at 8:23:34 PM
In this case, Edgarecks, that explains it completely, Coaster Brakes is what the bicycle had.

AGE / VALUE:   Part of what old Brit bikes so awesome and magical posted by: humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 9/10/2003 at 12:08:48 AM
It is the many different decals to be found on various English 3 speeds.
Take a look at this one!
E- bay item#
Rare Phillips England

Neat huh?
Not my auction, no relation to seller.

AGE / VALUE:   E- bay searching posted by: Chris on 9/9/2003 at 11:59:12 PM
I noticed this last night.
When I call up "Campagnolo" on e- bay that a lot of items that are not made by Campagnolo are in the mix and if you wade thru all of it you will see a lot of things of intertest in there.

I'm going to look under that heading more often.

FOR SALE:   Kent Bike posted by: Cal on 9/9/2003 at 11:14:19 AM
Is this one of those KMart Kent bikes or what is it. Looks great. Should I bid or not. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3626084714&category=22681&rd=1

   RE:FOR SALE:   Kent Bike posted by willie L. on 9/9/2003 at 5:09:55 PM
Looks a little better than a typical Kmart bike, but still don't know what it really is. I'd save $my 45 bucks or more for something else.

   RE:FOR SALE:   Kent Bike posted by Marko on 9/9/2003 at 6:07:25 PM
Pass on it, it's nothing special. Just water pipe that looks nice. Prbably a Peugeot OU-8 or somthing similar.

   RE:RE:FOR SALE:   Kent Bike posted by Tommaso on 9/10/2003 at 4:07:39 AM
for the record, in doing a search for "Kent Bike", I came up with it being sold at Target as well.

AGE / VALUE:   Pedal questions (new thread) posted by: David Poston on 9/7/2003 at 7:19:14 AM
I thought I'd start a new thread on pedals to address some other issues:

1) Mismatched pedal blocks. My non-operable '52 Raleigh Sports (a parts bike in horrid state, donated by Mike of Galveston, Texas) is wearing true gents 4" rubber block pedals, fully rebuildable with oil ports and all, but each pedal bears two different type of pedal blocks. One block is rectangular-shaped with no taper, while the other block is tapered at both ends. Why the mismatched pedal blocks? Was this intentional? Both pedals have mismatched pedal blocks.

2) Where's the best place to get info on rebuilding pedals, and what's the test for finding out whether your pedals are rebuidable or not?


   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Pedal questions (new thread) posted by Stephen on 9/7/2003 at 5:08:22 PM

(2) I'd suggest any bicycle maintenance book or site for information on rebuilding pedals. In more detail, you just have to replace the bearings and check/replace the cones if they are worn like any other part (hub, BB), and they don't have complicated parts like internally geared hubs.

To find out if the hub is rebuildable or not, see if they attachments are removable. The older pedals use nuts to attach the rubber blocks, and the dust cap is removable (you may be able to unscrew it with your fingers or you may need a wrench or screwdriver depending on the dust cap).

Conversely, later pedals (70's and later?) have a single metal strip that is pressed over the rods through the rubber blocks. If you deform it to remove it (or it breaks due to years of use) the original parts can't be reused, and if you remove it, you will see that the pedal axle has some plastic parts that can't be adjusted or removed and reused instead of cones and lock nuts like the older pedals. (If your only problem is that metal cover has fallen off the rods through the blocks, you can replace it with a threaded rod and nuts as a cheap fix).

(1) I've never seen pedals like this. Since both pedals are the same, it sounds intentional, even if it may have been an earlier owner's intention.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Pedal questions (new thread) posted by Edward in Vancouver on 9/8/2003 at 1:14:34 AM
Ah, pedals, love the re-buildable ones, but hold one in one hand and a new-er pedal in the other and feel the weight differance. The biggest challange in re-building pedals is finding decent rubber blocks. The 4" size replacements are next to impossible to find. I've got a cardboard bannana box full of old pedals, collected just to get one set (ie 4 pcs) rubber blocks. I only have 3, and of those 3 only 2 have the Raleigh logo... What I ended up doing was using 31/2" rubber blocks from "donar pedals" and making up the remaining 1/2"difference with rubber washers. The rubber washers I used are the ones at local hardware stores, commonly used for repairing faucetts. In my bannana box I've got my "Axis" pedals (German & Japanese) which use square bolts to secure the rubber blocks to the pedal frame. This is an improvement over the English round bolts; for no matter how tight the blocks are clamped in, they still will rotate.
The big rule is have fun, and take pleasure in devising new ways to substitute, replace, or improve.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Pedal questions (new thread) posted by David Poston on 9/8/2003 at 2:43:45 AM

Any guess as to why I have mismatched pedal blocks (one tapered, the other not tapered)? I suppose I could combine the mismatched blocks so that each pedal would have consistent blocks, but then I would be left with mismatched pedals.


   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Pedal questions (new thread) posted by Edward in Vancouver on 9/8/2003 at 2:43:19 PM
Pure speculation, but maybe one pedal got scraped badly on a sidewalk curb, and the only replacements available were the tapered ones. On the other hand maybe a previous owner needed only two rubber blocks to repair another pedal and used the bike as a parts department, replacing the blocks when the bike was needed.
It's always a gamble trying to figure out what a previous owner did. I remember one junk bike I stripped down that had a gas pipe seatpost with beer can material masking-taped around both ends of the pipe so it would fit into the seat post clamp and seat clamp. Don't want to speculate on that one for fear of drinking & cycling discussions...

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Pedal questions (new thread) posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 9/9/2003 at 6:50:08 PM
Replace them with something with reflectors if the pedals you were using did not have them.

Another thing to know is that sometimers these rubber blocks will rotate and cause you trouble. This happens after someone has overhauled these and removed blocks and thought they could put them back together. If they are tight, leave them alone.

David! I have a sheet I will get out to you on pedals.
It is called:

Parts of a pedal.

I have the address.

FOR SALE:   old 3 speed wanted posted by: James Biffin on 9/7/2003 at 3:18:14 AM
I'm looking for a Raleigh or Humber (or one of the Raleigh lines) 3 speed from the 1950s or 60s. Also looking for a SA dynohub.