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Archived: English Roadsters

WANTED:   Touch up paint? posted by: Dale on 9/29/2003 at 1:27:11 AM
It's time for a cosmetic restoration on the '69 Superbe, wear and tear from frequent use, you know :-) I seem to remember from some time back that somebody had touch up paint for Raleighs? Mine is the metallic green, not as dark as the early 70s color.

   RE:WANTED:   Touch up paint? posted by Dick in FL on 9/29/2003 at 5:42:40 AM
I thought I would try to become everyone's best friend by finding a paint dealer who would computer-scan my chaincase for the chromatic content of the finish and make up a gallon of paint in tiny containers. The only dealer who had such a machine was the Sherwin-Williams Automotive Division regional wholesaler. He required more surface than I could provide for a successful scan and more money than I could accumulate in a month of pretending to make change out of the offering plate on Sundays ..... $150/gal. I cheaped it out for myself with the metallic olive drabs from the local hobby shop. However, I never did run down the most promising lead, and I am passing the gauntlet on to you. The color we all want is reputed to be available from Land Rover dealers. Jolly good luck to you!

   RE:WANTED:   Touch up paint? posted by Bryan on 9/29/2003 at 11:49:29 PM
Regarding that Raleigh Green color, check the archives here. I seem to remember a thread a few months ago where someone mentioned that the old Ford Pinto green color is a close match. I'm pretty sure I saw it here. Anyone else remember, or am I going crazy?

   RE:RE:WANTED: Bring me the hounds of hell and we'll talk! posted by Chris on 9/30/2003 at 12:22:33 AM
I do not understand this.

I sit here and read the valient efforts made by folks and I can well imagine all the hoops that folks go thru to crack the paint problem once and for all.

It usually turns out that I hear that this is difficult to find the equipment, costs. 150.00 a gallon? Thats a bit steep. Is that a perfect match? The Land Rover paint is close but not exact. I can tell that by looking at the Land Rover cars.
I want this to be exact.
Exact like the Schwinn Pea Picker paint is. I asked is that new old stock and he said no it was repainted and re- decaled and I was fooled into thinking that it was new old stock, never ridden from back in the day.

This is what I want to see done (and do) with the various shades of paint that Raleigh used.
Somebody went to Schwinn or a former employess or something and they found the exact recipe.

Why can't this be done with Raleigh's paint?
Really? What not?

The Raleigh Chopper boards are full of folks still asking about paint. This should be done and should be offered by now. It would make re- spraying a Raleigh Chopper or my 28 inch wheel rod brake Humber really, really fun and awesome.
Why is this so hard?
Who has a lock on this? What is the deal? really!
I read a article about a bike that a well known painter had done and still, after all they did it was not exactly right. The bike was still off. I told him so too and he probably hung up the phone and wondered who the nervy little you know what was.
Well, I do know my bikes. And I am right.
However, I'm not a painter but with a good sample and the right equipment this should be a solved mystery. And solved by other people and solved somne time ago.
Ok, so the paint is expensive. Still if it is exact. it is worth it.

This is the thing that is the cause the still birth of this whole business, hobby, whatever. Paint.

I just do not understand this and some other things too.

People that quit and ride off into the sunset after probably making some money do not help.

Do I have to travel and take up this cause myself. Yes, it looks like it.
A full time, chase it to the end type deal.

I can see it now. I'll be applying for work with M.I.B. or some expedition to bring back the Holy Grail cup or do a live telecast from inside the ark of Noah and they'll ask what my qualifications are.
The one guy will say: I don't know. The other guy will say, Yes, but this guy chased down vintage bicycle paint and he caught it and brought back the exact shade of paint that they used and that was not easy!

This hobby/ interest in Raleigh bicycles and every other type of bike is not new. it went on for years and years (very well thank you very much) without the internet.
So why, pray tell is this so hard to crack?

Who all worked at Raleigh's paint department?
Get ahold of them and say ..... Look I have a (whatever) and I want to restore it.
Solve it. post it, sell it!Find a way that is not illegal but lets see it done! Ask, Ask ask until we find somebody!

How do we restore these bikes then? Something can be worked out!


   RE:RE:RE:WANTED: Bring me the hounds of hell and we'll talk! posted by Chris on 9/30/2003 at 12:33:55 AM
When I said that this went on fine without the internet I was right.
But wrong too!

Still, While the internet has made this more easily accessable to folks and broadened interest in this.
Still, while replacement parts are way, way more easily found and bought like on e- bay with the click of a computer mouse, with all the advances.
On these boards, we still have not cracked the mysteries of this or that.
Meanwhile we lose the old school folks who busted their tails doing things the old fashoned way in the pre- internet days.

If something gets up on the net I always thought that it would mean that it was saved for all time. But what do you do when a web page does not stay up for ever?

With my luck, when I did bring back the hounds of hell the folks I was supposed to show them too would be not at home or moved or dead or whatever and then I would be standing there with these two aweful snarling demonic dogs all day until they drove up in the driveway. Then, nobody would have a working camera!
Folks would tell the story about the day Chris brought back the hounds of hell and later generations would not believe and say things like..., Yea, right!

Anyways, paint.
It is the big, scarry, bug a boo to all this!

For now......

   RE:WANTED: Touch up paint? posted by P.C. Kohler on 9/30/2003 at 1:06:57 AM
BLOODY HELL! Sorry, but I almost lost the thread in all of the above. I think the gentleman wanted to know a readily available match for Bronze Green.

Simple question.

A Roll Britannia member has found that Ford Pinto (yes I know...) green is a close enough match.

Yes, it would nice to get organised with something as simple as paint. It's really easy. Then again one of the Chopper sites took the trouble to list matches in auto enamel and another chap says it's all rubbish and wrong.

Anyway, in a nutshell... go to an auto paint supplier and check out Ford Pinto metallic green.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:WANTED: Touch up paint? posted by Dale on 9/30/2003 at 3:11:25 AM
I remember that green on the Pinto, but never put two and two together. I can tell a replica Orange Crate from a hundred feet, but in this case close is good enough for me; I don't want concours, I'm just going to touch it up, not a full-up restoration.

I appreciate your point, Chris, but it's a battle I choose not to fight. Has anyone tried a good rod & custom shop? Or some place known for restorations? Or even ask around till you find the best painter in your end of the state?

I do vividly remember GM coming out with cars that were almost dead even matches for the Copper and Chartreuse on the Internationals, though. Copycats, I reckoned. Alas, the only chartreuse left on my International is on the steerer and inside the bottom bracket.

   RE:RE:RE:WANTED: Touch up paint? posted by Dale on 9/30/2003 at 3:14:00 AM
BTW, I once got a perfect match for a Cannondale from a co-worker who had it on her fingernails. That's right, she gave me the code from her nail polish and it was perfect - and it had a dozen shades that were close so you could really match it.

So if your bike's color is in vogue for nail polish...

   RE:WANTED: Touch up paint? posted by jack on 10/2/2003 at 3:58:51 AM
I just finished refit of 69 Superbe in bronze green. If any of your bikes are like mine (sunburned), you find that the original color (like on the fork tube)is quite a bit darker than the 30 yr+ exposed color. On paint matching for touchups, you can get a close match by mixing a few drops of hobby enamel on a test strip and letting it dry, than compare to bike.

   RE:WANTED: Touch up paint? posted by jack on 10/2/2003 at 3:59:39 AM
I just finished refit of 69 Superbe in bronze green. If any of your bikes are like mine (sunburned), you find that the original color (like on the fork tube)is quite a bit darker than the 30 yr+ exposed color. On paint matching for touchups, you can get a close match by mixing a few drops of hobby enamel on a test strip and letting it dry, than compare to bike.

MISC:   Schwinn 3 speed/Austrian built posted by: Joe on 9/28/2003 at 7:27:04 AM
I am in the process of rebuilding a 1962 Schwinn 3 speed hub, made in Austria. Opon disassembly, I found that the left side bearing cup is badly pitted, since the rest of the hub and it's parts look to be S/A compatable, (as well as the right bearing cup), I figured I would simply go to the parts drawer and grab a good used S/A left side cup.
But, it won't work, the S/A cup is slightly larger and wont even begin to fit into the hub body? I then tried an older Brampton Left side cup and it's threaded portion fits but the bearing is located further into the hub, thus leaving the axle flat exposed past the no-turn washer. I could space it and make it work, but it wouldn't look or really be correct.
Has anyone ever run into these hubs before and have any idea as to parts interchange? I do have a nos Sears hub from the same time period to use for parts, but I don't want to take it apart if it won't work, both are Austrian built. I am not sure if the difference is due to it being Austrian, or is it a Schwinn only trick? Or did the Austrian built S/A type hubs maybe use an older style cup that carried over?

   RE:MISC:   Schwinn 3 speed/Austrian built posted by Dale on 9/29/2003 at 1:26:43 AM
It may be a Sachs hub, Sears imported these in the late 60s and early 70s. You may be able to find a Sears bike for parts, they show up in the thrift shops and on the curb sometimes.

You may also be able to use an SA but remove the sealing ring? You could improvise a seal from plastic or whatever... but if you're doing a full restoration, I'd guess that's out.

Happy hunting.

   RE:RE:MISC:   Schwinn 3 speed/Austrian built posted by Edward in Vancouver on 9/29/2003 at 4:18:08 AM
Sachs is a totally different ball game. Just as we Anglo-philes have our Sturmey-Archer, the Germans have their Sachs. Both are good hubs, both are different. Sears did a lot with European bikes, and a lot of the Eastern Bloc countries used Sachs 3 speed (Driegang, Torpedo) hubs.
As much as I love S/A, Sachs has survived, and I see their 3 x7 hubs (factory built 3 spd hub with 7 spd cassete) on a lot of commuters and recumbents.

   RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Schwinn 3 speed/Austrian built posted by Joe on 9/29/2003 at 9:07:38 AM
The one on the Schwinn is definetly a Sturmey Archer copy or posibly a licensed version. All parts swap with an S/A except the left bearing cup. I have a few Sachs Torpedo hubs here, they are totally different. The "Schwinn Approved" hub could be mistaken for an S/A AW if not looked at closely. The Sears hub I have is also made in Austria and also is a S/A copy but with its own oversized and ribbed hub shell. I have seen the Sears branded hub on Steyr built Free Spirit bikes from the 60's. The best I can figure is that the Austrian built hubs continued with an older design, they are most like a Brampton or Hercules hub in that they use the same threading on the hub shell. I'll have to use a left side off an old Brampton I have for parts, rather than using a nos hub for parts.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:MISC:   Schwinn 3 speed/Austrian built posted by red on 10/1/2003 at 8:57:45 AM
I have this hub on my Steyr (Steyr original; not sears/free spirit). If the Brampton doesn't work for you, and you'd be willing to take the entire bike, then I'd be interested in getting it out of my garage (fall cleaning).

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Time capsule bike pix posted by: Jeff Bikeguy on 9/28/2003 at 3:37:06 AM
Here are some show and tell pix of the "time capsule" bikes I posted about last week. These are clean, unmolested, original Phillips three speeds. One is a 51' the other is a 54'. Both are small mens' frames. It goes to show that there is still some good stuff out there. Enjoy!





   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Time capsule bike pix posted by Chris on 9/28/2003 at 6:21:58 PM
Very nice! Both are mens, both in excellent shape.
I love the rear racks. My Phillips has an entirely different chainguard, more like Raleigh with the exact same Raleigh clip set up.
Your Phillips is older than mine.

Both yours and mine have the same large Phillips cut out chainwheel crank however.
I have this same seat on my 1948 Gazelle made by Raleigh.
Horsehair in the seat! Comfortable seat.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Time capsule bike pix posted by GMS on 9/28/2003 at 11:39:48 PM
Wow man, i wish i could got to the Phillips i got before some a$$hole decided to leave it in a gravel pit to rot for a decade, mine was well beyond orgional repair
Check it out, hopefully i have saved her from rusting into hell, but she sure ain't orgional, couldn't get my hands on enough stuff, but shes still a roadster, the only orgional things left on the bike are the crank and handlebars and frame. Any ideas anyone what year she is? It was a 1 speed with rod brakes front and rear, and its a nottingham, one model i have not seen anywhere else.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Time capsule bike pix posted by Jeff on 9/29/2003 at 1:18:47 AM
I believe the rear rack is aftermarket. It's an English made Midland roadster model rack and I think it's nickel plated instead of chrome. I thought it was really neat that these still had the plastic pumps attached. The older bike has an Apex Lastwel pump and the other has one marked Phillips. The pumps cleaned up real well and still kind of work :)

AGE / VALUE:   triumph posted by: geoff on 9/27/2003 at 10:25:43 PM
any info ? looks like it was a nice bike at one time.the only #s i can find are under the crank K-0526307-CA thanks for any information. i am also interested in buying one in better condition,rod brakes?

AGE / VALUE:   Gold Robin Hood 3 Speed posted by: Don on 9/27/2003 at 9:06:58 PM
Hello, I just purchased a 26" Robin Hood 3 speed. It's painted gold instead of black. Can anyone give me any information on this type of bicycle?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Gold Robin Hood 3 Speed posted by Titlist on 9/28/2003 at 2:28:50 AM
This is a good post, happened to stumble on the Robin Hood Classic, and I think it is something,


But, but, if one assumes, that after a transaction is completed, feedback is left, well, let's put it this way, doesn't seem like it's arrived yet.

I was reading the archives, a nice bicycle to have, but not that easy to find available parts for an older Robin Hood, but who knows?

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Gold Robin Hood 3 Speed posted by beth on 9/29/2003 at 7:04:03 AM
Not that this is super pertinent, but I recently accuiered a '65 Hercules and '69 Robinhood both made by Raliegh. And I thought I would keep the Herc as it is in better shape, and sell or part out the Robinhood... right now though I have become attached to the smoother ride of the Robinhood, but don't know whether it a matter of the seat or the tires. It needs more work, but I'm looking forward to it. Enjoy yours, I am loving mine.

AGE / VALUE:   Hercules bike on e- bay, again posted by: Chris on 9/26/2003 at 5:34:59 PM
1959 Hercules courier bicycle.
We have seen this already.
The seller is asking too much for the opening bid.
This is clean yes, but still. The headlamp is nice, undented and intact. The color is original but eh, there were nicer colors to come out of Hercules even before they were merged with Raleigh. Maroon reds, blues, e.t.c.
This color is a tad putrid. Well, lets just say it does not thrill me this particular color. Still it's something I would grab but not for more than 60.00- 75.00

As for going to e- bay and the shipping and all that. Not for this one anyways, and not for that price unless I was drunk.

I have never seen a rear rack mounted to the seat post like this but I suspect that its what they did at factory.
It is in the original frame color. the rack looks good.

Original tires on this? That, I don't think so. Would have to see it better. Nice pictures, white wall, wooden floor nice.
The original chrome fenders with the original decals are always a treat. The rear fender is the proper length too.

AGE / VALUE:   S-A clamp-on adjusters posted by: David Poston on 9/26/2003 at 3:58:24 AM
Has anyone had a fit with these aftermarket thingies? The ones that you clamp onto the end of your universal S-A gear cable? I am using one in my top tube shifter rig for my DL-1, and it seems to be slipping. I'll screw it on tight, and next thing I know--I'm slipping out of 1st or 2nd gear. Dangerous, I tell you.


AGE / VALUE:   40 Spoke Alloy Sturmey Archer Hub posted by: Kevin K on 9/26/2003 at 3:06:05 AM
Hi all. Today in a pile of junk I spotted on old wheel with an unusual looking hub. It is a Sturmey-Archer Alloy 40 spoke hub. Dated 1955. Missing some items but the axle is in it yet. I like the fact that it is a 40 spoke alloy as I'm looking for some unusual items to build up an old Schwinn cantilever frame. So tell me. Is this thing simply junk and I should have left it where I found it, or is their a chance to salvage this thing, rebuild it and make it work again. I've seen lots of SA hubs but never seen one in alloy before. Are these a bit on the rare side? Thanks, Kevin

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   40 Spoke Alloy Sturmey Archer Hub posted by Edward in Vancouver on 9/26/2003 at 5:03:09 AM
The big question is what kind of a hub? AW? FW? AC?. Most hubs were 40 spoke up to the early sixties. Alloy hubs are not uncommon, but usually found on "racier" hubs, as the alloy shell weighs 1/3 as much as the regular steel hub. As long as the hub shell is in good shape, you can stuff in rebuilt guts or even put in 4 or 5spd guts into a 3 spd shell. See Tony Hadland's site for the various "blow-up"diagrams and instructions.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   40 Spoke Alloy Sturmey Archer Hub posted by Kevin K on 9/26/2003 at 12:04:03 PM
Hi Edward. The hub states AW 3 speed alloy. It is rough. Found out it was in a creek bottom for several years. Well, I like to save old bikes and parts but...........can this still be rebuilt at a reasonable cost? Kevin

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   40 Spoke Alloy Sturmey Archer Hub posted by Edward in Vancouver on 9/26/2003 at 1:43:47 PM
Oh yeah, the hubs are next to indestructable. Download the diagrams and instructions at Hadland's site, then open the hub and have a peek. If the internals are badly rusted, replace them. I have, and I think many of us on this site have a drawer or box full of AW hubs for this purpose. Most bike shops will have one or two AW's kicking around, and if you look hard you'll find them on "surrogate" bikes, cheap bikes found at garage sales, Salvation Army, etc that can be stripped for parts. The parts for the AW haven't changed much since the hub was introduced, and all AW parts, irregardless of age will fit into any AW shell.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   40 Spoke Alloy Sturmey Archer Hub posted by humberchristopher28@hotmail.com on 9/26/2003 at 4:53:32 PM
I pay $15.00 for alloy hub shells.
I collect these and will spend hours looking thru piles of wheels for an alloy hub shell.
I prize every one I have.
I polish these up and they glow like they did when they were new.
Given a choice I will not use a steel hub shell and I'll wait and put off a wheelbuilding project until I have an alloy hub shell.
I'll dissemble a wheel for the spokes and I'll swap hubs so mine is alloy.

Sturmey- Archer offered a lot of their hubs in an alloy shell. I personally like to get the older Hercules hubs and put those innards with the threaded driver into the Sturmey- Archer alloy hub shell.

An alloy shell hub is worth more.
The hub, if you can unscrew the innards should be usuable dispite it being in a creek bed.
A creek bed is no place for these marvelous hubs.
Whoever tossed this hub in the creek is somebody I want to speak with.
They did not offer alloy hubs after 1956.
Sturmey- Archer went to the S.W. hub and those were not offered in alloy shells and then when they brought back the A.W. it was not offered in alloy then. When they did bring back an alloy shell for the 1980's 3 and 5 speed it was a different pattern alloy hub.
I own one of the newer ones but do not use it.

You can put a old four speed hub assembly into the alloy(steel too) 3 speed hub shells.

So yes, please do pick up the Sturmey-Archer alloy shell hubs.

A basic, steel shell, used Sturmey- Archer hub is worth about $10.00- $14.00 generally on e- bay.
These steel shell, Sturmey- Archer A.W. 3 speed type hubs are widely in use and these were fitted to the Raleigh Chopper and that is where everything is hopping right now.

You can find Sturmey- Archer innards almost anyplace as the other above post said. The allloy hub shells are hard to find. I know, I keep looking.
It's better to have an 36 hole drilling but a 40 is great too, especially if you want to put it into a 40 hole rim.

e-mail me if you want to sell your SA alloy hub shells without innards or with, I don't care as long as the shell is not scratched and the holes where the spokes go in are in good shape and are not stripped. One needs to take care to gradually loosen the spokes before cutting them because you can damage the alloy hub shell by cutting the spokes with it under tension.

Alloy hub shells bought: (15.00 paid, plus shipping) humberchristopher28@hotmail.com

An alloy hub shell could mean the hub is something besides the basic 3 speed A.W. model.
It could be a rare and valuable hub like the A.C., A.M. F.W., F.M., A.S.C. 3 Speed fixed, T.C.W. in alloy too, A.R. and others.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   40 Spoke Alloy Sturmey Archer Hub posted by Patrick Murphy on 9/27/2003 at 8:57:54 PM
I don't know about the rest of the world, but I suspect that just about any S-A hub in North America is only lightly worn because bicycles here have been used mainly for recreation rather than transportation. I'll bet most 3-spd. bikes here in the '60s and '70s have been ridden around the block a few times and then put away with the lawn darts and forgotten about, or retirees took all of them to Florida. I would suggest that any English Roadster fan would consider this place for thier next vacation!

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   40 Spoke Alloy Sturmey Archer Hub posted by Edward in Vancouver on 9/29/2003 at 4:32:38 AM
As much as I hate to admit it, you're probably right. Several bike stores that I know of have milk crates full of AW's. They strip them for parts-usually the pawls, springs, and axle key. Lately there's been an influx of the Shimano 3 speeds, and bell cranks for these are running at a premium.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Part swap? posted by: Brian on 9/25/2003 at 8:29:24 PM
I'm trolling for swap stuff - I have: Nice DBU unit with really nice condition frame clips,
SW Hub 1957 - in nice shape, S/A headlamp shells.
You have: ?
My next stop: ebay

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Part swap? posted by red on 9/26/2003 at 7:49:07 AM
What color is the DBU and headlamp? Green DBU or black headlamp means I'll have to go create an inventory for you.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Part swap? posted by Kevin K on 9/26/2003 at 1:39:30 PM
Hi Brian. Interested in the 57 hub.How much? What type of items are you looking for? Kevin

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Part swap? posted by Brian on 9/26/2003 at 3:08:25 PM
I will only swap my SA bits for a 1950's/early 60's, 20.5 - 21" Men's Sports frame in clean condition (paint & transfers unimportant, but excessive rust & damage is not acceptable, nor is a fork required in this trade). For this frame you will receive: 3 headlamp shells, several lamp attachment pieces, 1 S/A SW 1957 in great shape with 2 cogs, 1 old 1951 AW, one black DBU with excellent condition frame clips included (the top cap is not cracked & is in fine condition), one old "button" type SA rear light shell & lens (could use repaint), several NOS rear reflector lens & metal surround rings, and several other small bits. I will get some clear, clean pictures of all the aforementioned parts to a seller who has frame pictures to share. The issue of shipping can be worked out. As any hub gear enthusiast knows - it's the components & bits to these bikes that are a task to locate for your project. My opinion is that there are plenty of rusted/dented/crimped, and bent Sports bicycles out there - & only salvagable parts from them (if any) have any real worth to the majority of collectors/hobbyists/enthusiasts.

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Part swap? posted by Brian on 9/26/2003 at 3:11:26 PM
..yes I know, "20.5 Sports frame"? I meant to add Sports/Club frame for trade.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Part swap? posted by Brian on 9/26/2003 at 3:14:33 PM
..meant to say rear lamp lens & metal surround rings.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Humber "club" bike? posted by: Warren on 9/25/2003 at 8:28:24 PM
Is it a club bike or a converted roadster? Someone was looking for one of these frames not long ago.


It's got the bifurcated forks, old drum brake, Simplex gears and the angles look just steep enough to be a real racer.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Humber posted by Brian on 9/25/2003 at 8:41:38 PM
Yes Warren, That was me. I'm looking for a 21" Humber Mens Sport frame, or club frame. The ebay Humber is too large. Regardless what some think - size is important (in bicycle fit that is)!

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Humber posted by P.C. Kohler on 9/25/2003 at 9:25:23 PM
Nope... this has contrivance written all over it! The frame is a 1955-ish Humber (note the transfers including the 2030 tubing one which dates it to this period), Humber made no such machines at that time except the Humber Clipper and this sure ain't no Clipper! The brakes and I suspect wheels are off some other machine as are the handlebars, the brakes are missing and the whole picture is GRIM. I'd pay $22 for the whole package.

Where were you guys when a lovely and totally original Humber pre-war club bike sold on eBay UK two weeks ago for all of £76?!! It was alas a 20.5" frame (gosh folks were tiny then!) or I would have snapped it up in a heartbeat.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Humber posted by Brian on 9/26/2003 at 1:05:04 AM
Peter, I was recovering from a case of the flu probably caused by that 777 full of coughing, contagious people on the return flight from the UK. If I had been alerted to, or seen that Humber, I would have bought it - a 20.5 would suit my 5'6" height just fine. Any heads up to bikes in the future much appreciated!

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Humber posted by P.C. Kohler on 9/26/2003 at 2:02:36 AM
Well, my apologies Brian... my neighbour was allegedly interested in this too and well.. if you want something on eBay, don't d*** around. Bid to win. He didn't. And some lucky chap has a real sweetheart of a bike for practically nothing.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Humber posted by Titlist on 9/26/2003 at 2:49:20 AM
OTOH; someone mentioned the word sniper, for the record, I have never sold a thing on ebay. I can peruse sellers, decide, this one looks honest. When one used the word sniper, does this refer to the possibility of a seller, bidding up the price of an item via a third party? There is nothing to stop such practice, as far as I can tell. One thing, raising my eyebrows to this, was once, bidding on a nice jersey, so we are only speaking of around $20, I told a fellow bidder, I really wanted this jersey, then I saw what he had purchased on ebay in the past and he was from the same area; I told him, you are welcome to the item. He wrote back, telling me, his ceiling on bidding on the item, if I topped it, fine with him?

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Humber posted by David Poston on 9/26/2003 at 3:51:49 AM

You and I are just about the same height, so it seems we'll be competing for those smallish frames. My maximum frame size is about 22".


   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Humber posted by Edward in Vancouver on 9/26/2003 at 5:19:34 AM
Hey, in regards to the said bike, howcome no one ever mentioned the fork lock? There it is, located behind the head tube. That, and the b72 are a dead give away for a roadster. On the other hand, I've never seen Crabbe drum brakes before, and the 3 spd cluster and derailleur look worth the effort of going after.

   :ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Humber snipers posted by Warren on 9/26/2003 at 4:30:50 PM
A sniper is a person that wait's until the last minute...even seconds to make a bid on an object to prevent the price being driven up. It is considered loathesome by some sellers and they will sometimes refuse to honour the bid if done this way. Sniping will also fail if the original bidder has a higher "proxy" bid than the sniper. I got sniped for a 70's Dura Ace freewheel last week by a measley 25 cents. A lowlife indeed...

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Humber posted by Chris on 9/26/2003 at 5:23:02 PM
The parts alone are worth going after. The handlebars are the prize.
then the derailer unit, the cranks. e.t.c.
Also, this is an mens locking fork Humber with the fork. Albeit a later Humber.
The locking fork Humbers are rare in any size frame or any size wheel.

Actually, it does looks cobbled together.
The Humber type bikes with the handlebars shown and the exotic derailer gears and cranks would not be on this type and style frame.
Somebody been messing with the broth!

You can't go putting these type parts on this type frame. This is the basic steel, heavy 3 speed type frame.

This, in it's proper form,should be a 3 speed with the enclosed chaincase, Humber specific chainwheel, enclosed chainguard and with a dynohub in the front or in the rear with a 3 or a 4 speed/dynohub combination.

The "club" bikes that were Humbers were not this one and they more importantly, had the 531 lightweight frame tubing, different decals, and a different color scheme.

This is a later Humber because of the badge 1960-1970's in there.
They went Ga Ga over that Duplex fork.
Black is common, but the neat fork excuses that minor drawback.
The blue Humbers are bewitching, the ladies Periwinkle blue Humbers are neat.

Still worth going after, yes.
The 28 inch wheel Humber cycles are rare and awesome.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Humber posted by David on 9/26/2003 at 9:06:13 PM
I found early on that the only way to get anything on ebay was to snipe. Ebay COULD keep auctions open another minute or two after any bid, but they choose not to do so. I suspect they make more money from owning the companies that help you to snipe automatically.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Humber posted by Brian on 9/27/2003 at 3:46:43 PM
Alot of "yes's" on this thread. Yes, the Humber is a cobble-job. Yes, David you're right about ebay's profit motives, and Yes, it the "parts..the parts..the parts that we want!"

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Humber posted by Sharpshootin~ Stacey on 9/27/2003 at 5:56:38 PM
What do you need a sniping program for? I can consistently cut a 3 second snipe (which will beat ANY software) on a 33.6k dial-up. All it takes is determination.

If you want something bad enough bid high, let proxy do it's thing. No matter how good a sniper I am, if you proxy high enough, it will beat my snipe all the time... IF I don't aim high enough.

WANTED:   Bikeshops in Peoria, Ill. area??? posted by: Robert on 9/25/2003 at 6:06:49 PM
Are there any Roadster / Sports friendly bikeshops in the Peoria area? Or how about any bike salvage places???
I'll be there on business and would like to poke around any old bike shops there might be in the area.

AGE / VALUE:   Cantilever frame Phillips on eBay posted by: Jeff on 9/25/2003 at 2:43:20 AM
Not mine but interesting. You see something new everyday...


   RE:OTHER ITEM:   Claude Butler posted by Titlist on 9/25/2003 at 2:06:06 PM
from England itself, really noteworthy, and I am not the seller nor related, is http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=420&item=2193020173 ; a Claud Butler, and I will leave it up to the more learned here, on whether, this bike having drop bars should be mentioned here or in the LW group, near mint, from the '50s; already bidded at around $450 ; for bidding to just open up ; this seller has quite an array of items, an oil pin from Sunbeam ; seller is in England.

   RE:RE:OTHER ITEM:   Claude Butler posted by Titlist __ Tom on 9/25/2003 at 2:34:51 PM
Seller calls condition, "above average", thought it necessary, to amend what I said. But my, from the pictures, it does look, rather well kept. Big ticket item, for those who watch that. Who knows, where it will end up.

AGE / VALUE:   RALEIGH RAPIDE ??? posted by: JUNIOR on 9/24/2003 at 8:34:16 PM


MISC:   Goss Crested Raleigh posted by: Hoss on 9/24/2003 at 7:39:37 PM
See, a Goss Crested Raleigh on ebay, # 2558710463 .

Not the Buyer, nor spouse.

AGE / VALUE:    posted by: Jasper on 9/24/2003 at 5:07:10 PM
Alright, lemme tell you what happened:
About ten years ago in the Press of Atlantic City ,I saw an ad in the paper for a " Raleigh Tourist Bicycle, OLD" so I called the guy. He says he got this way old bike from the thrift store and "fixed" it up. He said that it had a smallish frame, and so I was interested being a rather smallish lady, 5 ft 1 in. and of course, I'd always wanted a rod braked Raleigh. So I asked him to describe it and he says that it "had" the craziest brakes! They didn't have "no" cables, but instead some damn fool rigged them with the damndest rig you ever saw: he had even drilled holes in the FRAME! They was long metal rods that pulled on "U" shaped "doohickies" with brake pads screwed on them "WHAT A "jury" RIG!" (his exact word was not "jury" but also not very politically correct). So, any way he goes on to tell me that it "had" a gigantic "hard ass" leather seat on it with springs in the back, AND front. He said he "tossed" it, and (sure enough) put on a (torn) gel seat. He took off all the rod brakes and fittings and THREW THEM AWAY. He took off the FULL CHAIN CASE and THREW IT AWAY! He had hammered out the cotter pin, and put a BOLT in instead! He THREW AWAY the mud guards. He had a local bike shop put on cheap side pull brakes made in China, "Lee Che" brand as I recall I remember that it sounded like some kind of a nut. The crankset was painted black, and the only reasonably shiney chome was on the rims. I went to see it, and it was infact a Raleigh Tourist. As I recall it was a '66. It had no fenders, no mud guards, and no chain case, and the guy wanted $400! Because the guy at Beacon's told him they were worth 4 or 5 "hunert" dollars, " 'cause it's really old ".
Yeah, I made up a "funny" little story before, but as I said it was based on something that really happened.
I don't know, somehow I thought giving a little "story" might be funny, but I see now that it was actually stupid.
However I do now have a nice Raleigh Tourist, in the smaller frame, and I am very happy with it!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by David Poston on 9/24/2003 at 9:58:39 PM
If someone was ever caught mutilating a DL-1 like this, he ought to be strangled by the chain and burned alive in S-A oil. That ought to teach him a lesson.


   RE:AGE / VALUE:    posted by sam on 9/25/2003 at 1:54:58 AM
I remember my first Raleigh--a used sports.I put a banana seat and ape hangers on it---I was 13!Next year I got a car.---sam

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:  No bolts please   posted by Chris on 9/26/2003 at 5:25:52 PM
Bolts thru the cotter pin hole. I have seen that. It does not work as the bolt is softer than the pins were.

Makes a mess of it, ruins the cranks. I point it out and haggle them down.