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Archived: English Roadsters

AGE / VALUE:   you want rare--you want odd posted by: sam on 3/7/2004 at 3:31:08 AM
And check out his other stuff too.http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2230131430&category=420
Anyone see the two TF hubs on ebay last week?---sam

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   you want rare--you want odd posted by Ian on 3/7/2004 at 8:22:42 AM
Oh to be in England with a big suitcase eh Sam?? This is exactly the way to find them, original and unrestored although you would not want the Itera except as a novelty to hang on the wall from some of the stories I have read. I bet you were coveting the Webb forks on the Powerpak? Did you note the cable operated front brake suitable for use with Westwood rims, of course a rod brake would not work when the suspension was going up and down. Will keep chasing that set in this country and let you know if I come up with any. Cheers, Ian.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   you want rare--you want odd posted by sam on 3/7/2004 at 11:47:34 AM
I did see those forks and was wishing he had offered them separate.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   you want rare--you want odd posted by Tobias on 8/22/2005 at 11:50:25 AM
I have an original itera plastic bike from the early eighties still in the box from the factory - never opened

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Superbe Fork Key posted by: Jason on 3/6/2004 at 8:04:50 PM
Hi, Can anyone help? I have just purchased a Raleigh Superbe, but the fork lock key is missing. Does anyone know where I could purchase a replacement key?

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Superbe Fork Key posted by Dick in FL on 3/6/2004 at 8:50:24 PM

I checked my lock cylinder for a code. All that I saw was "NGN" and the number "3". My own keys, being utterly useless for security, are currently locked in a safe, but I can almost remember that the lock manufacturer was Briggs. (Of course, I have a reputation for remembering things that never occurred like Colin Powell assuring the UN that there were "weapons of mass destruction".) If you are obsessive about this, a full service locksmith will have blanks and can help you. Locally, it costs $10 to pick a lock, $2-$3 to grind a key from a known code number, and two-for-a-dollar to duplicate. The value of having these keys lies in the claim you can make on the day you elect to list this bike on ebay.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Superbe Fork Key posted by Steve Ringlee on 3/7/2004 at 5:39:52 PM
The lock cylinder takes an Ilco LF-5 blank key and any locksmith can cut the blank to fit the NGN key code stamped on the lock cylinder. Realize that this lock is real cheesy and you would never use it as the primary lock for the bike. I have the diagram for the lock if you need it: email and I'll send it.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Superbe Fork Key posted by Chris on 3/8/2004 at 8:04:28 PM
The lock diagram is here at this site

AGE / VALUE:   S/A 3-speed SHAFT driven posted by: Larry "Boneman" Bone on 3/6/2004 at 12:47:43 AM

OK, I thought this was pretty cool and was amazed that it's actually branded Sturmey-Archer.

Too bad it's not a Roadster though....


Larry "Boneman" Bone

   S/A out of busness? posted by GMS on 3/6/2004 at 2:10:19 PM
I read someplace that Strumey Archer was bought out in 2000? And then whoever got it sold off the assets to make some quick money...hense there should be no new S/A hubs made right? or maybe somebody bought the rights to make the hubs? im not sure anybody have any better insight? This bike clearly has a NEW S/A hub on it, and i have also seen another bike BRAND NEW in the store with a obousally new S/A drive train

   RE:S/A out of busness? posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 3/6/2004 at 2:51:59 PM

Seems NOT! Alas.... the "New" Sturmey-Archer seems to be based in Taiwan.


Larry "Boneman" Bone

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   S/A 3-speed SHAFT driven posted by James on 3/7/2004 at 8:23:23 AM
http://www.zerocycles.co.uk/ this company makes a decent looking shaft drive city bike, yet another interesting european bike you cannot buy here.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   S/A 3-speed SHAFT driven posted by Joe on 3/7/2004 at 9:45:35 AM
I wander how much hassle it is to remove the rear wheel?
I also wonder how likely this set up can be adapted to another bike? The shaft drive itself may not be Sturmey Archer, I would guess it's adapted to work with the newer S/A hub.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   S/A 3-speed SHAFT driven posted by David on 3/9/2004 at 4:24:16 PM
The right=angle drive unit probably has a driver with 3 inner splines to engage the SA driver. Taking off the wheel does seem interesting - a BMW motorcycle wheel is removed by taking out the axle and a spacer. Then there's sufficient room to pull the wheel off of the drive. It's not clear how this one would work! Anyone know who actually makes this one? I couldn't find a website for "Incline"

   RE:RE:S/A out of busness? posted by GMS on 3/10/2004 at 12:52:58 PM
aahhhh...Strumey-Archer/Sun Race? Interesting...but doesn't Sun make MTB parts :P? I know they make the rims on the MTB im going to get(dont worry i still got my Phillips;) Anybody here of a place to buy NEW S/A hubs?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   S/A 3-speed SHAFT driven posted by David on 3/10/2004 at 6:17:38 PM
Persons-Majestic is the SA distributor, www.permaco.com. I've heard that Taiwan production has been underway for a while and that quality is good.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   S/A 3-speed SHAFT driven posted by Joe on 3/11/2004 at 10:20:39 AM
After seeing this set up I had to email the seller, he tells me that only the hub is S/A, the drive assembly is made by Incline. They also make one to use a Nexus 7 hub.
Wheel removal requires removing the axle nuts completely, and the wheel slides rearward on reverse dropouts similar to those on a track bike.
This leads me to believe that an adapter must attach to the hub in place of a sprocket on the drive side and thus become part of the final drive unit when intalled.

AGE / VALUE:    posted by: Max on 3/4/2004 at 9:17:37 PM
1972 Raleigh Sports 3 speeds man brown for sale

MISC:   David Poston posted by: Ben McCoy on 3/4/2004 at 1:34:51 PM

Please email me off-chat to discuss a suggestion Harvey had.


AGE / VALUE:   BSA Model 21, Serial #E31033 Bicycle-non-motorized posted by: cs on 3/3/2004 at 11:34:16 PM
Can anyone tell me how old my bicycle is? What should I use to clean it. It has no rust, just dusty.
It seems to be in great shape. I am new to this.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   BSA Model 21, Serial #E31033 Bicycle-non-motorized posted by GMS on 3/6/2004 at 2:14:12 PM
Brasso works really well on cleaning up chrome...use a soft cloth that wont scratch...as for the paint, people will have mixed opinions on it, but I dont think soap and water ever hurt anything. Also using a degreaser on the chain etc and putting on some fresh oil makes a big difference!

MISC:   Rod Brake Roadsters posted by: Mike on 3/3/2004 at 10:16:15 PM
Anyone know besides ebay where I could get prices for Rod Brake, full chain case roadsters? They occassionally appear on ebay but I've also heard that Dutch firms and Eastman in India still make them. If anyone has links, info, ratings, comments, etc. it would be much appreciated. Thanks

   RE:MISC:   Rod Brake Roadsters posted by James on 3/4/2004 at 3:50:44 AM
see: http://threespeedbicycles.angelcities.com/ under roadsters and sportsters today there is a list of new gear hub bikes available. Most dutch and danish bikes don't have rod brakes, some danish raleighs have rod operated drums.
http://www.recyclesonline.com/ they sell used dutch bikes and new Azor bicycles from holland. They had a few nice dutch BSAs for sale. Some might have rod brakes.

raleigh.dk still makes the Raleigh roadster and the sports. Not sure how one goes about ordering a new one, they never responded to my emails nor did any of the danish bike shops I contacted. Maybe you should try writing them in danish?
If you are open to a newer roadster without rod brakes there is a lot more to choose from -e.g. Gazelle, Batavus, Azor etc. These bikes would make much better everyday bicycles than an indian bike with rod brakes and steel rims.
momovelo in Berkeley sells Chinese Flying Pigeons with rod brakes.

AGE / VALUE:   tips on my new baby? posted by: Jessica Bruder on 3/3/2004 at 1:36:54 AM
Hi there,

Ever since my old red Raleigh Triumph was stolen last year, I've been pining over it. And the gods were kind: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3663612534 . I bought this bike. It's a '69 model and in gorgeous shape.

Please humor my two (naive?) questions.

1. Was $60 a good deal?

2. I've been trying to raise the handlebars. I unscrewed the top stem, to no avail. Then I tried loosening some of the large washers on the neck of the bike (embarrassing, but I don't know the technical terms here). This revealed a whole bunch of ball bearings, some of which fell on the floor (ayyy!). So I quickly re-packed them and sealed the whole thing up.

I feel like an idiot because I've never had trouble raising a bike's handlebars before. But if anyone can steer me in the right direction, I'd be grateful.

Jess (who is in the process of buying a very heavy motorcycle chain/lock to prevent theft of her new bike by NYC vagabonds)

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   tips on my new baby? posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 3/3/2004 at 10:33:14 AM
A good looking bike at a fair price certainly. Though you can come across them for less they certainly can sell for more. MUCH more in some cases. As to the handlebar issue, yep, back the bolt out a few turns and give it a firm rap as previously stated. Sometimes, they've not been adjusted or loosened for... well for DECADES and need a little "convincing" as to who is the boss.

That headlight is impressive. I was unable to spot a generator in the pictures. Is it battery powered?

Good luck with the "new" bike!


Larry "Boneman" Bone

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   tips on my new baby? posted by Chris on 3/4/2004 at 4:51:39 PM
This one is clean and complete and not dented up or rusty.
60.00 is acceptable but if it were a garage sale bike I'd have offered them less. Larry is right on with what he is saying! I would have the brake cables looked at and possibly replaced. The brake shoes are probably hard from age and I would replace them with something new. This way you stop better and especially in the rain that is important. Pick up a used bicycle repair book at your local used bookstore or ask us here if you ever have any questions. We have, ride, collect and repair these type of bicycles and we're all over these and nothing is gonna escape us no, not with this one.

Handle bar stem:
Get a rubber jar opener and a regular hammer and after you turn the top nut in the handlebar stem a bit to loosen it you turn it until it pops up towards you. Then you put the rubber jar opener on it and then you go WHACK! with the hammer. One good whack, or maybe two or more until that long bolt drops down. Then you pull up the stem. Pull it out and then look it over and put it back so you know in your mind where the limits are it should be in 2 inches or at the line engraved on the steel handle bar stem. Do not pull it out too much. The handle bar can be raised or lowered not just raised too much. This is a fun little bike. It is called a city bike.
Tighten the bolt back up while standing in front of the bike with the wheel between your legs and align it up with the wheel, then tighten the bolt intil it is snug not too much.

The 3 speed hub needs to be adjusted also. This can go out of adjustment if not properly set. Do not get up off of the bicycle seat and ride without being seated on the seat. No riding up off of the seat. Not with the Sturmey- Archer hubs. There is a no gear or middle gear position with these and if it is not adjusted properly with that indicator chain rod thingie that comes out of the rear 3 speed hub hub it can slip out of gear on you. It's a quirk that millions have accepted on this hub. Properly adjusted and oiled from time to time with a light sewing machine oil or with genuine Sturmey- Archer cycle oil these hubs go forever! Just do not get up off of the seat and tear away like heck and you'll be ok. It should never slip on you and if it does there are tips and tricks to get it back into perfect adjustment.
We have or can get or can advise you on how to find and install any part you will ever need.
If anybody ever tells you:
You cannot find parts for these old bikes you (please) tell them this:
Say this:
Sorry, No, Not true.

May Vintage British bicycles never vanish from the earth!

   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   tips on my new baby? posted by Chris on 3/4/2004 at 4:57:33 PM
Who do you know who could watch the bike even if it is locked?

Carry a spanner wrench and remove the front wheel and put it back by the rear wheel and lock the frame rear wheel and front wheel. buy a Kryptonite "New York Lock"

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   tips on my new baby? posted by Jessica Bruder on 3/5/2004 at 2:37:17 AM
What a great group of people you guys are! And here I thought I'd be chased away with torches and pitchforks for lacking in knowledge what I (hopefully) make up for in enthusiasm.

Let me answer the questions:

Do I plan on using it? Hell, yes. In the days since I had my first Triumph, I've actually noticed that the West Village area is slowly getting inundated with vintage British three speeds. So I may have been a pioneer at first, but now I'm just joining the legions of Dunelts & Raleigh Sports, etc. ;).

Yes, it's a battery-powered headlight -- I believe it takes a pair of C's -- brand is Enwell & it was manufactured in Hong Kong :).. I want to use it but, again, it's so gorgeous and I'm still worried about theft. May use it on and off, or perhaps adapt it as a wall mount reading light, which -- though it may be sacrilege -- will keep it with me, for later use as a bike light if I leave NYC for mellower environs.

Re: the handlebars, I've been able to remove the stem/bolt -- when I pull it completely out, the handlebars won't move at all, as if the bolt were still inside. I will try giving 'em a tap of ye ol' mallet.

And I plan on getting a Kryptonite NY chain and locking the bike right in front of my apartment. That way I can throw eggs at anyone who messes with it.

Will oil the gears, for sure, and promise to ride in a proper seated position, making my best attempt at British posture!

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   tips on my new baby? posted by Ben on 3/5/2004 at 4:48:24 AM

Sounds like you have a classic case of seized stem (stem and the tapered nut which would normally be at the other end of thatlong stem bolt are fused together with the steerer tube, which is what connects the handlebar stem to the front fork. Try this: get some penetrating oil at your local hardware, and with the bolt out, dribble some in, maybe a teaspoon at most. Let this sit for a couple of days. Then screw the long bolt back in, until it is about a quarter inch shy of being snug, then use the rubber jar opener and mallet as Chris suggests above. this should knock the tapered nut out of the bottom of the stem, and you will see this happen when the head of the long bolt collapses onto the top of the stem when you whack it. Once (or should I say if) this happens, twist the handlebars back and forth while facing the front of the bicycle and holding the front wheel between your knees. The stem should come out now. If it does, take the tapered nut and bolt off, clean the bottom (inserted portion) of the stem with some steel wool up with steel wool, lubricate the threads on the bolt, reassemble nut, bolt and stem loosely, spread some grease on the insered end of the stem, and reassemble back into the steerer tube. Center handlebars at the height you want (following Chris's guidelines) and tighten the bolt.

Good luck!

Ben "been there, done that" McCoy

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   tips on my new baby? posted by Jessica Bruder on 3/7/2004 at 5:13:30 PM
Thank you, Ben -- I'll try it! If all else fails, I can live with the handlebars at their current height, but here's hopin'...

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   tips on my new baby? posted by Dick in FL on 3/3/2004 at 5:56:45 AM
Congratulations on finding such a sanitary Triumph. To my uninitiated eye, the handlebar stem appeared to be as high as safety would permit. At any rate, you can break it free by loosening the stem nut (as you have) and then giving it a good whack with a rubber mallet (or a two-by-four). This will break the quill free allowing you to raise or lower the handlebars simply by twisting and aligning. I see that you were able to acquire this gem for only one dollar more than the next most-motivated bidder. And you avoided shipping fees. What can I say?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   tips on my new baby? posted by James on 3/3/2004 at 7:15:36 AM
$60 is a good deal, they can go for a lot more. Do you plan on using it on a regular basis? I hope so, there aren't enough of these bikes on the road.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   tips on my new baby? posted by Brian on 3/13/2004 at 10:48:23 PM
Nice purchase Jessica. You are back to riding the kind of bike most people really enjoy riding around on for casual sport - they just don't know it! What a civilized thing is the English three-speed..cruising along sitting upright - not hunched over some aluminum modern with flashy decals, attired in a $300 Pearl Izumi/Sidi color coordinated "me-too" outfit. Ah! cycling as the peaceful bike-Gods intended!

AGE / VALUE:   Interesting Raleigh? posted by: Larry "Boneman" Bone on 3/2/2004 at 3:59:22 AM
Check this out. Double top-tube DL-1?



Larry "Boneman" Bone

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Interesting Raleigh? posted by P.C. Kohler on 3/3/2004 at 3:12:56 PM
Police bikes are a fascinating subject especially since SO many folks, particularly in England, call the DL-1 or No. 1 a "bobby's bike". This is because you just don't see too many of the big 28" wheel roadsters in regular "civilian" use in England.

Raleigh were one of the few firms to feature the Police model in their regular catalogues. It usually featured a hockey-stick chainguard (no enclosed gearcase), the extra heavy chainwheel and cranks, and no gears. Later models had dynofours.

Of course, most town councils then would never splurge on fancy Raleighs for the local constabulary (unlike today when councils love spending someone else's money!) and many of the Police bikes I've seen in the UK are the cheapest brands of the era: Comrades, Standards, various CWS makes. In 1950 these could be had for about four quid, single speed. And almost all of them have acquired 10 coats of thick, licorice like brushed black enamel. England must have a local police museums in every village and hamlet and all invariably feature one or more police bikes.

The other great place to find old crusty roadsters like this used to be large factories and shipyards in England and Royal Air Force stations where they were used to get around by staff. The ones I've seen on RAF bases are, of course, painted with 10 coats of RAF blue!

P.C. Kohler

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Interesting Raleigh? posted by sam on 3/3/2004 at 5:46:06 PM
If you ever see a raleigh dealer's catalog ,it list several of raleigh's chainrings.This was one of them.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Interesting Raleigh? posted by David Poston on 3/3/2004 at 10:43:39 PM

I always assumed that these double top tube machines were for export only. What was the reasoning why policemen needed such big, heavy-duty bikes with 28" wheels? I mean, Brit police aren't quite so heavyset as they are here, are they?


   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Interesting Raleigh? posted by P.C. Kohler on 3/4/2004 at 3:58:33 AM
Are you kidding? The best thing any criminal needs anywhere in the world is a fast pair of legs! Policemen (and women) come in all shapes and sizes but maybe it's all those donuts, but I've seen more than my share in England and the US that could use a double top tube!

Best British police film ever is the Ealing Studios "The Blue Lamp" and the sergeant does indeed do his rounds on a big 28" roadster but single top tube.

Here in Washington we have police on bikes... mountain bikes of course with the usual 28 gears. What I love is that all of them habitually break every traffic law riding them! Amazing. But I want to get a picture of six or more police bikes parked outside a 7-11.....

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Interesting Raleigh? posted by Dick in FL on 3/4/2004 at 6:52:06 AM
Just as interesting, perhaps, is this fully-outfitted antique Swiss military bicycle.


Those accessories are to "die for". It reminds me of the WWII shaft-drive Indian motorcycle I ran across complete with Thompson sub-machine gun securely holstered in a shiny custom leather scabbard on the front fork. (The owner actually possessed the federal stamp that conferred legality on his rig.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Interesting Raleigh? posted by Tim Powell on 3/4/2004 at 11:40:29 AM
Back in the 50's anyone wanting to join the police force had to be 6' tall minimum and be very fit with a minimum chest expansion of 3". I remeber this as my brother wanted to join but was not heavy enough for his hight, (6' 1"). All coppers were giants when I was a boy. The local copper in our village had a double top tube bike and I remember that they were pretty common up in London back in the 50's. I recollect that my friends and I were once pulled up by a policeman on a single speed police bike for 'Furious Pedaling'. He had chased us for a mile or two and was not even out of breath. I was riding my three speed Triumph and going like mad down hill. He took our names and in due course we, together with our parents had to go to the station to be cautioned. A different age back then!



   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Interesting Raleigh? posted by James on 3/5/2004 at 2:11:41 AM
I found an Elswick (not raleigh built) for sale today, the guy at the bike shop told me it was a police bike, I have no idea. It had polished alu fenders with an elswick badge on the rear fender. odd handle bars, straighter than the usual 3 speed handle bar, might not have been original.
they also have a beautiful phillips tandem.

someone mentioned a swiss army bike above, I met a girl who ride one of those everyday. It weighs 60lbs, one speed, coaster break and rear drum and a front plunger brake, fixed seat height, sounds like quite the beast. she paid $600 for it, apparently the pop up in army surplus shops every now and then

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Interesting Raleigh? posted by Matthew on 3/7/2004 at 9:12:57 AM
Please check some Indian cycle manufacturer websites. This cycles is a beauty,but caveat emptor (buyer beware) It MIGHT be indian as they still make this model out there. I agree with just about all that has been siad about these cycles and certainly the policemen of my childhood were immense, especially my uncle in the 'Met', he doesn't seem so big now, I wonder why?

The film, 'The Blue Lamp' which later influenced THE police tv series 'Dixon of Dock Green', was actually used as a Metropolitan police force training film for many years!

Who ever buys this cycle will have a gem, I do hope it is ridden and enjoyed.

Matthew - How shall I go to Church? Mini, Skoda, 4X4, walk or cycle?

   RE:AGE / VALUE: Interesting Raleigh? posted by Warren on 3/2/2004 at 2:55:24 PM
It's odd...no Raleigh chainwheel, new SA shifter, looks like non original fenders with raised profile. The only thing that looks Raleigh is the fork.

This might be chinese...I've seen one other with the Raleigh fork.

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Interesting Raleigh? posted by David Poston on 3/2/2004 at 4:24:58 PM
This is definitely an export machine, but a true Raleigh--you can tell by the headbadge. Such a tall frame, though! Everything looks pretty original except for the later version S-A shifter and pedals w/ reflectors. Also, what are those weird red bands on the rear mudguard and seat tube?


   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Interesting Raleigh? posted by P.C. Kohler on 3/2/2004 at 10:39:57 PM
Ah.. don't be fooled here folks....

Raleigh made a Police Bike with an extra heavy duty chainwheel and cranks that was NOT the Heron design and looked just like this. And the double top-tube was an option for "Extra Heavy" riders. This model was offered as a Raleigh, Rudge or Humber and possibly a Triumph. So this has every likelihood of being both original and unusual.

Obviously, the English Bobby of the '50s came in all shapes and sizes and for those with a weakness for a sausage roll with his mid morning cuppa, this is obviously THE bike.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE: Interesting Raleigh? posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 3/3/2004 at 12:51:52 AM
Well, good show P.C. A most excellent and edifying observation. Thing that I was suspicious of was the abnormally protuberant front end of the chainguard. That looks very "Indian" or "Chinese" to me. But then, it's definitely NOT your run-of-the-mill Raleigh.

A cool bike, nonetheless.


Larry "Boneman" Bone

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   raleigh rod brake posted by: wes on 3/2/2004 at 1:22:36 AM
ive found the year on the hub it is a 70 thanks for the help
and i got to ride it to day how ive waited for one if anyone
wishes to check in texas on parts the fellows name is kevin
and his email is ekmurphy1@yahoo.com again thanks for the help wes

WANTED:   Rod Brake Handlebars posted by: Ben McCoy on 3/1/2004 at 11:25:00 PM
Well, I am ashamed to say I had an accident on my beloved Phillips roadster and bent the bars. These are the straight-across type found on earlier roadsters and have the Phillips logo. Does anyone have any earthly idea of where I could find another set?

Sincerely and sadly,


   RE:WANTED:   Rod Brake Handlebars posted by Ben McCoy on 3/4/2004 at 4:03:51 AM
David, Harvey suggested I might tag on to your impending shipment to save cost. Could you email me to discuss?



   RE:Cycles of Yesteryear posted by Chris on 3/4/2004 at 5:02:12 PM
David, don't do that to me. I went from: Oh No! Tradgedy. to Oh, Ok, it's gonna be fine!

To lose Cycles of Yesteryear would be a real terrible blow to these awesome bikes future!

Buy what you need, one never knows what the future will bring.

   RE:WANTED:   Rod Brake Handlebars posted by David Poston on 3/1/2004 at 11:34:01 PM

Try Harvey Russell of COY (www.cyclesofyesteryear.com). I am soon to have two pairs of Raleigh pattern rod-brake handlebars--the older, flat type as well. Of course, these are not original parts, but I am hoping that they are decent enough. Made in India, of course. Harvey should also have Phillips-pattern bars as well.


I will have a boxload of parts en route soon along with my Sunbeam cycle (finally!). I suggest the rest of you take your opportunity while it's still available.


   RE:WANTED:   Rod Brake Handlebars posted by Ben McCoy on 3/1/2004 at 11:51:51 PM
But, alas there is also good news...a friend of mine brought over an old bike the other day, said he thought of me instantly while cleaning out his deceased father's garage. It's a 1951 Humber Sports, all original (bifurcated fork, even tires) with original Lucas light set. Pumped up the tires and tightened a couple of fender brace bolts, and off we went!

Happy Day!

   RE:WANTED:   Rod Brake Handlebars posted by Ben McCoy on 3/2/2004 at 12:04:00 AM

Thanks...emailed COY right away, let's hope he can help.


   Cycles of Yesteryear posted by David Poston on 3/2/2004 at 4:20:35 PM
Good news: I just heard from Harvey that his business will continue, but he, personally, will be fading into the background. So I guess COY goes on but someone else takes over.


FOR SALE:   '48 Raleigh Dawn & '51 Rudge Sports posted by: P.C. Kohler on 3/1/2004 at 10:22:56 PM

1948 Raleigh "Dawn Tourist"

23" frame, black, Sturmey-Archer AW, original RARE black-faced trigger (needs new spring), rod brakes, 26" x 1 3/8" Westrick rims (front is new wheel), Dunlop Bates rubber saddle, full gearcase, restored and fully overhauled. Original paint with repainted top-tube and new lining and transfers. $425

1951 Rudge De Luxe Sports Tourist

23" frame, Rudge Maroon, Sturmey-Archer dynothree hub, full DBU/FSU lighting unit. Fully original, exceptional example of the top-of-line Rudge model. Full gearcase, caliper brakes (original cables, original maroon pump, superb chrome, one slight ding in rear wheel rim, original pedals, fork lock (no key), Dunlop tyres, Lucas bell etc. etc. Original paint and pinstriping in very good condition. No rust. $500

NOTE: these are for sale for LOCAL pick-up only (Washington DC area)... no shipping!

For pix and more information, contact me direct kohl57@starpower.net

P.C. Kohler, herd thinning...

   RE:FOR SALE:   '48 Raleigh Dawn & '51 Rudge Sports posted by David Poston on 3/1/2004 at 11:27:37 PM

Hmmm...After all that work, you really want to rid yourself of these wondrous roadsters? Too many club bikes, eh? Someone take him up on his offer; a fully restored cycle is worth way more than one just pulled from a barn.


   RE:RE:FOR SALE:   '48 Raleigh Dawn & '51 Rudge Sports posted by toowheels on 3/2/2004 at 3:07:26 AM
Wish I was closer,I would look great riding the Rudge.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Seek front wheel posted by: Geoffrey on 3/1/2004 at 1:20:12 PM
Looking for a front wheel for a English Sports bike - the type found on the Raleigh/Robin Hood/Triumph/Dunelt/Hercules/Phillips Sports models in the 26 X 1 3/8 size. Must have the Sturmey Archer Dynohub in front wheel. Need a rim/dynohub that's in really decent cleanup condition - no rusty/damaged stuff. I'd prefer p/u in the NY/CT/NJ tri-state area because shipping is cost prohibitive with the value of these parts. I have $ and/or small parts to exchange if you like. I posted this in "wanted" section first, but not everyone here views those posts.

AGE / VALUE:   Phillips Bicycle posted by: Adam on 3/1/2004 at 2:00:48 AM
Yesterday, my son and I stumbled upon a Phillips 10-speed bicycle for free. Its serial number is 3927164 and it has Huret components. Any idea when it was made?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Phillips Bicycle posted by Jonas Lucio da Silva Filho on 3/8/2004 at 7:46:17 PM
Betim, 08 de março de 2004

To Raleigh Bikes
I recently owned a Philips bike, and I would like to make a restoration for that become as an original.
Checking with a friend of mine, I was informed that with the serial number I have the possibility to know the model and the year it was made. And it could be informed by you.
It refer to a male Phillips bike from the end of the years 40 / beginning of 50. I will list below some details that will help you to identify the model:
Serial number: 5234285, B234285 or F234285. (The first number I couldn´t see very well, but the last six numbers I´m sure)
Pedal with the inscription: Phillips
The rear wheel has 40 beams and the other has 32.
It has doblle frameset and a place to fix the air flow.
My e-mail for the answer or for more details is: jonasfilho@rural.com.br
My address is Brazil : name Jonas Lúcio da Silva Filho,
Rua Mariana, 207
Citty Belo Horizonte - Minas Gerais
CEP : 31.210.420
Yours sincerely,
Jonas Lúcio

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Help identify posted by: clive bridges on 2/28/2004 at 10:02:29 PM
In 1951 I bought an old Rayleigh English roadster, still have it.
Want to find out about it. Its called a Raleigh clubman. I understand made circa 1936-39. Its very lightweight. Strangely made of stainless still, even the wheels including every spook.
I wonder if it was a limited edition.
certainly the stainless steel wheels are not particularly practical ( bend too easy)
can anybody help throw some light on my old (much loved) bike

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Help identify posted by P.C. Kohler on 2/29/2004 at 11:37:01 PM
The Raleigh Clubman was made 1948-51.

The 1950-51 version had 27" Dunlop HP rims usually supplied in stainless. Although my '51 Clubman has chromed steel rims.

There is a full history of the Clubman series in "Roll Britannia" (Yahoo Group) and also in the RetroRaleigh website.

P.C. Kohler

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Help identify posted by Chris on 3/1/2004 at 4:59:13 PM
What color? I'm drooling here!
Marvelous machine!