| Note: The items are for sale *subject to availability.* There may be a few days extra delay, as I do not have the parts on-hand with me.|
ITEM #1: One Sturmey-Archer S3C internal 3-speed hub w/coaster-brake, used, 36 hole hub. Not known if hub works or not, spins roughly. No sprocket, chrome is peeling just a bit on the brake arm. Some pitting and a bit of rust under the chrome here and there, but still very nice for an everyday runner. Hub is a late 70's model with the chrome bands - I think it's stamped somewhere between '73 through '76 - haven't looked at it in a while.
Asking $35.(Not including shipping & handling charges.)
NOTE: Sturmey AW type hub from the same vintage available as well. Condition is similar to the S3C. Also asking $35. I think it's a 36 hole as well.
ITEM #2: New WALD-brand North Road-style Handlebars. Made in the U.S.A., suitable replacement for your old Raleigh North Roads. The new bars are about 2 inches wider then the originals, and the ends are about 1 1/4" longer. The ends can be cut down, but if you want a more relaxed ride without worrying about appearance, this is what you want.
Warning: The center of the handlebars are 1" in diameter - the original North Road stem is 7/8". While the following procedure is not usually recommended, you can fit these handlebars in the original stems with some bending of the stem's hole and a bit of Vaseline.
$16.50 each. (Not including shipping & handling charges.) Allow a week extra for this part - I must order it from my supplier on a first-come-first-serve basis.
ITEM(s) #3: Sturmey-Archer 3 speed indexed 'trigger' shifters, hardly used, in excellent shape. Some appear clean enough to be N.O.S. However, I cannot guarantee these parts to be N.O.S., so I am selling them as "very slightly used." Two styles are available:
1970's era, black plastic cover with "polished steel" look. Red "SA" logo,
1990's era, black plastic cover w/current Sturmey-Archer logo.
Included is trigger shifter and mounting screw. Cables and other hardware are NOT included.
$16.00/ea. (Not including shipping & handling charges.) Specify variant.
P.S.: I also have one 1960's to 70's-era index-shifter available. It is a copy of a 50's Sturmey-Archer shifter, but says "Trigger-Shifter" instead of "Sturmey-Archer". It also has a small "TCW" script on the bottom, suggesting that the shifter be used with the Sturmey-Archer TCW hub - shifter should work with an AW though. The logo is a copy of the SA-style banner. All metal, no plastic cover. Asking $20. Only one available!
ITEM(s) #4: New 26 X 1-3/8th tires (I think they are Chen Shing or LHR, don't remember) with thin reflective silver striping. A perfect tire for your 1974-1979 Raleigh Sports. Looks almost like the original thin whitewalls that came on these bikes originally, but with silver striping instead (which can pass for white - it fooled me the first time I saw them). Nice smooth, crisply molded tread too - not the usual rubber 'flash' found on many crappy Taiwanese tires.
$30.00/pair (Not including shipping & handling charges.) Subject to the availability of them at my local Wal-Mart ;-)
If you are intrested in these parts, you can email me at email@example.com
| Terribly sorry, but in my haste, I accidentally wrote down $16.50 and $16.00 as the prices of the Wald handlebars and the trigger-shifters, respectively. The actual prices are $18.50 and $18.00.|
Again, I am very sorry for the mistake - please pardon it!
| Hello All,|
I would be grateful if someone could enlighten me on the following.
I have today come across a racing bicycle RRA MODERNE on downtube it is approx 25" frame would appear to be alloy has a brookes leather saddle the rest of it is shimano has grease nipples fitted on bottom bracket and front stem
| Hi Robert,|
It could be a 57 or 58 Raleigh (does it have a headplate?). I have two of them that were bought as a pair in 58. I can send you some pics of the better details when I get to my home email. These were rather rare bikes. Drop me a note at the above email and we can see if yours is from the 50's or earlier.
| Hello all,|
I am intrested in a set of post-1974 Raleigh Sports decals. Original, reproduction, I don't care, as long as it looks right and it's not worn to the point where I can't apply them.
I am willing to buy the whole set of decals, as well as an incomplete set, or just one decal alone.
Below is a scanned photo of the 1976 Raleigh brochure from http://www.retroraleighs.com/. It shows all the decals I will need:
(copy/paste this link into your browser)
You may contact me via the email link (click on my name "Kurt K.") or respond to this post.
Thank you very much.
| I returned from the UK recently, armed with a pair of Michelin 26 X 1-3/8 World Tour tires. I have now installed them on my '61 Superbe and am very pleased with them. They look great and are a good deal rounder than some of the Taiwan specials I have used (although these are getting better, I have to admit).|
I am returning to the UK in a couple of weeks for a business trip and might bring some more of these home, if folks are interested. They will be around $20 each.
For some reason, Michelin does not market this size in the US, although you can buy 27 X 1-1/4 size here.
| I've been using these tires for several years. They are a quality product. If you are in London, be sure to checkout the Bibendium (Michelin) Building - an interesting building with decent seafood served indoors and out.|
What type of tread pattern do they have? Are they correct, older-pattern tread with no reflective sidewalls?
| They are good old fashioned blackwalls, not reflective. The tread pattern is ziz-zag, I guess. I might be able to take a digital picture and forward that if you like.|
I bought a very weathered 1930s Raleigh Record Ace some years ago and it had what appears to be the same type of Mihelin tire on the front wheel, although it's so rotten most of the tread has actually peeled off the fabric casing. Still holds air, though!
| If anyone has a 42 tooth williams 3-pin chain ring to sell,please email me at firstname.lastname@example.org|
| I picked up an AMF/Hercules yesterday for $7. I was planning on getting a very nice Ladies Schwinn Collegiate, but the thrift shop wanted $25 for it, so I went for the 3 speed. I'm not familiar with the brand, but I guess it was built by Raleigh under the Hercules badge, and AMF put their logo on it. It is in pretty good shape, but looks like somethings were broken off. Is there a place where I can see what it is supposed to look like so I can start the hunt? Also does it have a model name, or is it just known as a AMF/Hercules? |
| I've seen the name tourester or maybe sports added to the Hercules name.You got IMO the best of the two bikes to chose from,even with some parts broken.Which parts are missing/broken?These bikes are easy to fix,lots of extra parts avalible--if you know where to look---and they ride good---sam|
| From working on a Raleigh Sports, I know the little silver bullet on the front fender is missing. The rear reflector on the rear fender is broken, and there seems to be several things that were attached to the frame by metal straps that are broken (ie. there are only the metal straps and a broken piece of plastic there now). Maybe they were the frame pump holder. Haven't torn it apart yet so That is from a quick look. I did notice it has a AW hub dated 72, and has Altenburger alloy side pulls. A little bit of rust but nothing bad for a 30+ year old bike.|
| Has anyone ever heard of or tried a product called Rusteco? Check out their website at http://www.rusteco.com/. I was thinking about using it on my old Sunbeam roadster to remove rust on some small parts and also to remove some minor surface rust on the fenders and chaincase before touch up. They say it's safe on paint, rubber, etc. Looks interesting.|
| Nope, Oxalic acid won't harm paint,rubber, or skin. That's why wood finishers use it to bleach darker coloured woods, before laquering or varnishing. |
I 've had great success using oxalic acid in dyno hubs, rusted up AW's, un-recognizable pieces of crud that turn out to be gear pulleys, and even "invented" a process with Oxalic acid to remove rolling rust trapped in the hollow sections of bike rims.
And for those of you who don't like spinach or rhubarb, guess what? Oxaic acid is present in those items, just in smaller quantities...
| Haven't heard of that, but my favorite is Oxalic acid. This is commonly sold as wood bleach or rust remover. It's a white powder that you mix with water and immerse the part in, or brush it on. It's very safe, I've used it to free up rusted magnets and armatures on dyno-hubs and remove rust stains from cloth.|
| How is Oxalic acid on existing paint, decals, rubber, chrome, etc. One of the advantages of the Rusteco is that it is harmless to the existing finish on a piece of metal and it doesn't etch the metal at all. It's bio so you can safely dispose of it down the drain. I recently saw an article on how it is used for cleaning up the inside and outside of vintage motorcycle tanks. Leaves the existing finish on the tanks looking great from what I understand. (By the way-this thread has nothing to do with AGE/VALUE:-) I wasn't paying enough attention when I hit post).|
| If you are going to be removing rust from larger chrome parts - I don't know of your sunbeam has chrome rims or handlebars, the ones I've seen were largely black - but it is the best stuff for removing rust, works better than Oxalic acid/barkeeper's friend. Never tried it on painted surfaces though. |
| And the stuff I was talking about but failed to mention is quickglow, probably developed for the motorcycle crowd. |
| Are any of you guys in Manhatten? I might need some help, bought a nice old Raleigh but it looks like I will need someone other than the seller to ship it. email@example.com |
| I wanted to comment on a bike I bought the last Saturday. I have several Raleigh roadsters, but I always wanted a Hybrid. I am a tight-wad (like many of us) and so I never bought one. Well, at a yard sale Saturday past a fellow has a Trek 750 Hybrid with flat tyres, dirt all over it etc..and he only wanted $40, so I bought it. Long and short, all I had to do was clean it, and pump up the tyres, and it works perfectly. It's cool too: cast lugs, True Temper butted tubing, Matrix rims, Suntour equipted 8 spd, the whole schmagegy. It works best on hard packed dirt roads, and paths, but it does work pretty darn good! I know this isn't the right page for Hybrids, but I know all of you are searching for Roadsters as I do every week, and I thought you'd like to know that it is possible to find something else nice while you're doing so:-)|
| Yep. Vigilance is the keyword here. Patience too. It is interesting... what WAS "state of the art" 10 years ago is beginning to find it's way into tag sales and even curbsides for "collection".|
As to your hybrid, great find! Mfg.'s are finally figuring out that arse in the air technobikes, while popular, are not the ONLY thing on earth. Trek has one out now, 8-speed internal hub, MUDGUARDS, upright seating and yes... FULL CHAINCASE even.
Electra even has an interesting tagline: "Bikes for the rest of us!"
While I'm quite partial to the Roadsters due to their comfort and style, I daresay that finally there are other things becoming available that suit me. I recently procured and Electra "Rat Fink" Chopper that's awesome and am currently awaiting delivery on a very kewl Giant Stiletto.
As ALWAYS, and it's funny how the eye gets attuned, I can spot a bicycle wheel in the trash from1/8 mile away... and yes... "vigilance" is most assuredly the key.
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| hey gang, I have a Raleigh DL-1 from 1978 that is just like brand new. All original parts that came with the bike, plus a giant europeen style bell. It has a replacement full chain case that was bought at a Raleigh dealer the same year, and it's original curved half wrap-around chain guard as well. I am considering selling it as I almost never have a chance to ride it any more, and don't want to see it get all screwed up in the basement or something. i paid a good deal of money for it from a friend who bought it new. I would be interested in hearing from one of you if anyone is interested in it. Any idea of it's value?|
| Sorry lads, I put me address down wrong! Try the above.|
| Cripes! I don't even know my own freakin' e-mail:-)|
1978 DL-1, yata yata yata....
| Cripes! I don't even know my own freakin' e-mail:-)|
1978 DL-1, yata yata yata....
| Sorry,Boys & Gents,but were back online, JULEZ&I still have|
the( 1976 \ 26" Schwinn Lowrider Cruiser \ 5speed \ 4SALE
Paint: Metalic Pearl Green \ 3yrs.old \ good cond.
Tires: 26" Street Wht. Wall \ 6yrs.old \ good cond.
Springer Fork w/ Tension Bars \ good cond.
Bck.Rim 5Star \Pedl.Crnk. 1star \ stainless steel chain
All in good working cond.
Accessories: Head & Tail Lights run off a generator\wrking.
Orig. Jingle Bell & Pear seat \ fair cond.
1 Hand Brake: Cables & Pads \ need new
Asking Price: 3k \ Bttm. Price: 2k500
Personal Note: I Ride this "BAD BOY" 5Times a Month, cause
I attract to many "rubberneckers" and the fact that,
my girlfrnd. knows, "CHICKS" like the pearl paint job !!!!
Dont 4Get Our E-Mail Address \ or Phone Us At 408)849-1377
| What does it take for you to post in the right forum, "Mr. Macho-Boy?" You seem to think you know a lot about your bike...if you did, you wouldn't be putting your Musclebike on the English Roadster forum.|
| Who cares if these folk are on line? Harpo|
| What a bizarre post, I'm affraid I've never attracted any rubber necks or !chicks on my Rudge, or rubber chicks for that matter. Maybe it is the lack of streamers that makes the Rudge a failed chick/rubber band magnet. I try to tell the "chicks" that we'd all be speaking german if it weren't for bikes like these but they are usually distracted watching macho men ride girl's bikes. |
| Actually, it's a brilliant strategy. This feller has a bike that his lady is jealous of so she tells him to sell it... so he posts an advert. to appease her... knowing full well that anyone in THIS forum would probably not be interested. She feels better... he gets to keep his bike, we get a chance to maybe laugh up our sleeves a little.|
Of course, I'v been known to be wrong before. Though since the divorce, that happens very rarely these days. ;-)
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| recently picked up '59 raleigh sports frame (which isn't really a roadster, but this seems like the most appropriate place to ask anyway). the frame is in decent condition, but the remainder of the bike isn't. i'm looking to modernize it just enough to make it a good commuter in rainy portland, ore. got the aluminum rims already.|
one of the things i'm considering is a new crankset/bottom bracket. does anyone who has completed this operation on an older nottingham bike have any tips on this from their experience? i'm aware of the limited selection of parts that'll work with this bb shell and threading, and i'd like to end up with a 46-52t chainring, as well as keep the existing sturmey archer hub. but, i haven't got a clue how the crank and bb parts of various manufacturers are going to work together with regard to spacing and chainline.
any info would be greatly appreciated.
| You can change the rear sprocket, a lot easier than buying expensive Phil Wood parts and an ugly modern chainwheel/crank set up - the nice looking new chainwheel/cranks that would look appropriate on a Raleigh Sports are apparently not available in this country, you'd have to go to Holland for that. |
I live in Portland and use a Raleigh Sports as my everyday transportation, actually quite a few people do, I've never had to do anything other than make new wheels with aluminium rims and it seems i'm just about the only person riding a Raleigh with alu rims. I hope you got the CR 18 not the AT 18, the AT 18 might be a bit weak for portland roads and it looks like crap the Danes do use the AT18 rim on their new Raleigh Sports, but then the Danes are a bit better about maintaining their roads and avg. commute length is much much shorter.
Another thing you could do, which might be cheaper than buying Phil Wood cups and chainwheel parts is to get a new 5 speed hub or an overhauled 5 speed hub. The price of a new 5 speed hub is probably less than the price of the Phil Wood adaptor cups, chainwheel/crank and disposable Shimano BB - the right length disposable Shimano BB may no longer be available, that's what I've heard.
If your BB cups are damaged, you can still buy new ones, I have a few pairs (I've never had to replace them but am stockpiling them anyhow) as does Peter Paine http://www.oldcyclebits.co.uk.
| Stronglight(french)3-pin cranks were used on raleighs in the 70s.---sam|
| Forgot to add---also Nervar cranks---sam|
| Did something similar to a '55 Raleigh Sports here in rainy Vancouver. The problem with all Raleighs up to the the middle '60's was that the BB and headset threading is 26 tpi (threads per inch), as opposed to 24 tpi on virtually every other make of bike.|
That being said, if the cups are still in good condition, use them with a modern, square tapered spindle. This works very well, and currently I have a Shimano axle and MTB crankset on my Sports frame. This allows you to use modern cranks and offers easy crank removal. Other options are to spring for Phil Woods cups (fagettabout it, too expensive) scrounge for new-ish 26 tpi cups, or have the BB rethreaded by a reputable frame builder to accept 24 tpi cups.
| http://sheldonbrown.com/raleigh26.html. The phil wood rings aren't as expensive as I thought, it's their bottom brackets that are expensive. One possibility might be to use a chainwheel from a differnet raleigh, 5 speed sprite, 10 speed from the 70s, I have no idea if this would work, there might be some chain line issues . I'm curious, why do you want to change the chain wheel? There are plenty of different rear sprocket sizes out there, shimano gear hub sprockets work apparently. |
| thanks for the input - you're right - i haven't seen much in the way of modern cranksets that would look close to right on this bike. i've got a pretty full set of rear sprockets, but i'm not too concerned with changing the gear ratios. after riding around on a much heavier raleigh bike with steel rims, i'm looking to create, as much as possible, a lighter, more efficient alternative for longer or wetter rides that actually stops when the rims are wet, but is still based on the frame of the sports. |
that said, i haven't had any direct experience with what the difference is between a cup-and-cone bearing bb on an older raleigh and a cartridge bearing. i've heard from a few other commuters that it's significant, possibly due to the increased efficiency of the bearings, lighter crankset or both, but haven't actually done before and after test rides. i certainly don't want to waste money on an 'upgrade' that won't improve the performance and will leave perfectly good original parts to rust in the basement. anyone have a take on this after switching out the bb?
| I would second thesuggestion to use the existing cups if good , or finding some on ebay. Then adding a square tapered spindle / axle. I do not know what the number is but it is the one that is for the usual vintage 10 speed bike.Cranksand chainrings can be had from a thrift store bike. I have done this on a Superbe and on a Record. |
If the chainline is off it can be adjusted in the back by moving spacers or flipping the dished sprocket. Front chainring has worked for me using the "inside position "
nearest the downtube. It works out real nice and makes bottom bracket maintenance , which will be pretty regular in your rainy area, much easier.
| Sealed BB cartridges are great! Just expensive, that's all. The cup and spindle system works well but needs regular upkeep, but this, coupled with removing the cottered crank, is a right frightfull job. If you're not after vintage '50's period looks, go with a square tapered spindle and modern crank. It'll save you time and frustration in the long run.|
I think Sheldon Brown still has aluminum 26 x 13/8 rims on his site, but only in the 36 spoke versions. If you're going spend some money on new rims, might as well throw some money at decent brake calipers as well, and brake pads too.
I'll never forget braking in wet weather on my first ride on steel rims after a lifetime on aluminum rims, knuckles were white for days.
| my last bike is for sale getting out of hobby, just informing you guys, thanks for the education its been fun.|
| This Sunday is the date of the Northeast Bicycle Swap Meet. |
We have registered vendors coming from all 6 New England states as well as New York, New Jersey and Pennsylvania. There will be original Schwinn Sting-Rays, Krates, balloon tire bicycles from the 1930s, 40s and 50s, track bikes, a turn-of-the-century board track racer, English roadsters and GOOD USED Mountain and Road bikes.
FREE Admission to the swap meet
- AND -
FREE admission to the New England Musclebike Museum!
There is no official bicycle show with judging and awards, but if you've got a cycle you're proud of, then bring it a long!
Click on the banner above for details and directions to the swap.
Vin - VVVintage Vintage Bicycles, Inc.
| If there's anything in particular you want us to bring to the swap, let us know.|
For example, we have a bunch of un-reconditioned English 3-speeds in the $20 to $40 range.
If you need specific cables, tires or other parts, let us know by Friday.
VVVintage Vintage Bicycles, Inc
| I've e-mailed Sheldon about this, but I thought I'd post here as well...|
My question is this: On ladies' frame "Sports" bikes, when did Raleigh switch from routing their S-A gear cables via the top tube to the bottom one? I have a '55 Raleigh Sports ladies bike, and I can't figure out if the fulcrum clamp should be located the top tube or the bottom one. The upper pump peg on the bike is located just behind the frame lug, so there isn't that extra space for the fulcrum clamp as is found on later ladies Sports bikes (such as my '65 Sports). Because of this, a standard S-A cable housing doesn't seem to reach far enough to mount on the bottom tube.
The 1947-48 Raleigh catalogue depicts the ladies Sports Light Roadster with the S-A gear cable affixed to the top tube. However, the 1956 Sturmey Archer manual (courtesy of Tony Hadland) shows the gear cable going to the bottom tube.
What makes this even more confusing is that my '55 Sports came with the larger fulcrum clamp (and an incorrect S-A cable), not the smaller one to fit the smaller top tube (as is found on any gents cycle). Perhaps the larger fulcrum clamp was meant to accomodate the rear brake cable as well as the top tube?
I appreciate help on this.
| I checked the 3 ladies' Sports in my fleet (1 50s and 2 60s). I believe they are all original. All 3 route the gear cable along the lower tube with the pulley on the seat tube at the bottom bracket. (This is the only location for the pulley that makes much sense to me.) The brake cable is routed along the upper tube with that water-collecting loop where it turns up to the caliper. |