| I've managed to build myself a roadster for under £30, mostly out of parts from old push bikes that people have thrown out or dumped. I've had some nice finds, like a '40's SA Quadrant gear lever, an old glass lensed headlamp and a full chaincase (which was an utter swine to line up by the way). Although, for obvious reasons the bike is multi-coloured and rusty, it all went together and rides like an absoloute dream. Anyway, I've fitted the lights and DBU (from a skipped ladies Robin Hood)) and have made a new loom for it. It all works fine, but it got me to wondering if they're is a more efficient set up. A quick internet search turned this up : http://www.nscl.msu.edu/'daniel/sreg.htm I was wondering if anyone has attempted anything like this, or if anyone knows of where I might find similair information in an easier to understand format. It looks like a damn good system, but it goes right over my head! by: 80.3.128.5 |
| Hi Pete, If you are willing to make some tradeoffs, Reflectalite offers a regulator that addresses the problem of bulb burnout from fast pedaling. Sheldon Brown has a simple modification to accomplish this as well (adding a diode). The DBU of yore gave the equivalent of a 'standlite' while stopped. Nowadays, this effect can be achieved more economically with a single LED mounted on the handlebar. These things have such a minuscule current draw, they will run for *dozens* of hours on a charge. In fact, one modern approach (Lumotech) incorporates an LED standlight energized by a condenser (capacitor) when the bike is stopped. These systems demand a switch to isolate the generator because inadvertant daytime running with a burned-out bulb could fry the electronics. Keep us informed of what you come up with. Dick ion FL by: 172.132.156.243 |
| Thanks, the Sheldon Brown article you pointed me to was very informative. As an amature with electronics, it was much easier to understand than the frighteningly technical article I found, and is much recommended to anyone wishing to improve the basic dynamo lighting set-up. I have cross referenced it with articles on amature electronics sites, and have thus begun to formulate a parts list and a plan of action! If all goes well, I will post the results here! by: 80.3.128.5 |
| Anyone interested in selling a 21-inch size Robin Hood, Raleigh Sports, Dunelt, Armstrong, BSA, Phillips, Humber, etc - sans wheels and saddle? I've got wheels and saddles. I need the rest of the bike in good to very good condition. Clear pictures would be greatly appreciated. There are ways to do this via eBay. Example: put a Buy it now on auction, with shipping cost calculator. by: 71.209.139.246 |
| IF YOU NEED PARTS FOR YOUR RALEIGH TOURIST D.L.1. ROD BRAKE BIKE TAKE A LOOK AT THROWBACKBIKES'S OFFERINGS ON E- BAY AS I AM/ WILL BE- SELLING A GREAT DEAL OF THINGS. NEED SOMETHING? E- MAIL ME AND I'LL LIST IT. ckokkinis@comcast.net by: 68.41.206.53 |
| I pulled out a pair of NOS Dunlop Imperial Sports 26 X 1 3/8 tires today to mount on rims for a sweet 1955 Dunelt Sports bike. Too big? And then I read in small print on the sidewall, in brackets "Fits 1 1/4 " rims. Huh? I checked an old Dunlop tire chart I have from the early 60's and yes, there was a 26 x 1 3/8 size for EA1 rims. Another anomoly. For a time, Dunlop made a "Dunrick" rim. The Raleigh pattern rim was then referred to as a Raleigh Special pattern and the rim we know as a Westrick was first called a Dunrick. It came in EA1 and EA3 sizes. I have a pair of the EA1's. They are quite narrow and suit club bikes. I've found references to Dunrick rims in both CCM catalogues and a Dunlop tire chart. This tire chart cross references 22 tires sizes with 14 different rim types and the corresponding rim circumference at the bead seat. Ever heard of an EA2, E4, E5J, F13 or K2 rim? This is a very useful chart. If you have an unusual rim, use a tailors tape to measure the circumference of the bead seat and it will tell you what rim you've got and some of the correct tires to go on it. It also has recommended Dunlop tire pressures "depending on weight of rider". EA1's go to 65 psi and EA3, are rated a surprising 60 psi , so "Inflate Hard" if you've got them. by: 70.51.127.110 |
| Those 597mm (EA1) 1-3/8s you have there almost sound like an English variant of the ballonish Schwinn S-6 American tyre of the same fractional size (1-3/8"), yet, fit 597mm rims. In fact, yes - I have heard of EA2, E4, E5J, F13 and K2, yet I have no idea what they are...which doesn't help. Perhaps you could share these charts with us? Take care, -Kurt by: 205.188.116.204 |
| I'll scan the chart for you Kurt...it's on a Dunlop poster thats too big for my scanner although I could piece it together in sections. The Imperial Sports tires are very typical of other EA1 club tires...similar to Champions with a double centre line or ridge for smooth fast rides. Go figure. by: 70.51.142.108 |
| Many EA-1 tires are marked "EA-1 straight wall or Schwinn S-6" They are not interchangeable with the more commonly used EA-2. For whatever reason Schwinn used the EA-1 on all their 26x1 3/8 rimmed bikes. Most of the department store branded 3-speeds used the EA-2. by: 68.93.80.79 |
| Sorry, I meant EA-3 instead of EA-2 by: 68.93.80.79 |
| I've picked up a pair of Raleigh Sports, 1965 (mens) and 1967 (ladies), for very, very little (5$ each). I'm curious what you guys use for oild for the three speed hubs. Both bikes are in remarkable shape, needing an overhaul and cleaning the steel with some brass wool, so I'm going to put them back on the road. Should be nice neighbourhood beaters. Thanks. by: 70.105.10.163 |
| Uh oh... here we go with another dreaded oil thread... ;-) Just kiddin'. Ideally, Sturmey-Archer hub oil would be the way to go. Don't know if the NEW Sturmey-Archer Co. produces it and if so, where one might procure it. Alternatives that I've seen posted here in the past would be 30 weight non-detergent motor oil or sewing machine oil. I use the latter. I'm sure a few others will chime in! Nice find BTW! Cheers! Larry "Boneman" Bone by: 69.39.171.221 |
| 20 weight oil, Larry, not 30 weight. The 1978 Raleigh brochure specifically states 20 weight S.A.E. oil as a substitute for S-A oil. Problem Solved! -Kurt by: 205.188.116.204 |
| Correction - not the brochure, but the owners manual. -Kurt by: 205.188.116.204 |
| The lighter weight oil is important when it gets cold! The heavy stuff thickens and the hubs often don't shift right; also the freewheel pawls may slip. by: 66.30.200.82 |
| I use Oil of Rohloff(10 mL)and have noticed a marked reduction in friction in the hub.It can be messy if you overfill the hub however. by: 128.210.117.192 |
| I guess I'm a Philistine. I've used 3-in-1 on a AW3 hub for the past 27 years without incident. (shrugs) by: 68.93.80.79 |
| Nah... that sounds more like the behaviour of a luddite vs. a philistine. ;-) Cheers! Larry "Boneman" Bone by: 193.38.171.31 |