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Archived: English Roadsters

AGE / VALUE:   English Huffy posted by: Eric on 12/2/2005 at 10:27:27 PM
I am considering the purchase of a nifty Huffy 3-speed, "English" style. Bike looks 10 to 25 years old, has "Sahara" letters on creme colored frame (original paint and decals), tuned up with good rubber, $80. I know many of these bikes with US brands were actually made in England or Europe (my dad had a 70's Sears bike made in Austria). Any chance of this with Huffy?
Also, I do not have high expectations of this thing ever having a huge collector value but would be interested in anyone giving me any info. I guess my real question is, independent of actual $ worth, is this a bike with any panache?

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Essex Bikes - did Raleigh make them? posted by: Romney on 12/2/2005 at 5:07:12 PM
I'm fixing up a his & her pair of "Essex" english 3 speeds from 1970. The man's bike is cinamon and looks like the Raleigh sport from the time except the top rail has a distinct curve or bend to it. The woman's bike is deep purple and of course doesn't have that bar.

Looking for more information about the bikes, were they made by Raleigh, or is Essex the Brand name? I haven't been able to find any information about Essex Bikes. It might be interesting to know what they were worth, but we're not considering selling them. I'm just fixing them up for now.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Essex Bikes - did Raleigh make them? posted by Geoff Rogers on 12/7/2005 at 5:08:44 PM
Essex was indeed one of many Raleigh brands in the sixties and seventies (and perhaps before). There was one that was ridden around Northampton, Mass. until about a year ago, red with chrome fenders, I think (Not sure about that though). Teh chaiguard was literally rusted through, nearly in two pieces, but the rest of the bike was pretty serviceable. The curved top tube is known as a "camelback", and was used on the Raleigh Colts, among others. They were children's bikes with short seat tubes, although there is no reason why an adult can't ride one. There is a gentleman who rides a lovely plum-colored Raleigh Colt around town here. He uses a long seatpost. As with any English three speed, they are worth saving, and unusual to boot.

FOR SALE:   NOS Raleigh Threaded Pedal Caps and More posted by: Lane on 12/2/2005 at 2:58:43 AM
I have more items on ebay, some start tonight others end in 2 days. NOS Raleigh threaded Pedal Caps? Ebay # 6584509183, you won't find these very often. will give the perfect restoration. I am clearing out some items. Check my auctions Hotfoot60

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Superbe and Lenton Clubman posted by: Geoff Rogers on 12/1/2005 at 3:44:40 AM
My two acquisitions from an annual trip to England last September have just arrived, and I'm debating what to do about it. I am also wondering just what I was thinking at the time! The first is a 1947 Lenton Clubman, pretty much original and rideable, but pretty rough. It has a 531 straight-gauge frame, flip-flop rear hub with steel 26 X 1-1/4" rim, alloy front rim (not original I think), dropped alloy bars, ordinary steel Raleigh brakes, and a decent Brooks B15 saddle. There are two lamp brackets, one on the fork blade and the other on the stem, which is a non-drilled headclip-fixing style. The frame appears straight but it's very gungy and must have been stored in a wet place (England, for example) because it is simply covered with surface rust where the grease did not protect it. I have not cleaned the old girl up, but it looks pretty bad. The transfers are all more or less intact, miraculously. Oh, yes, it has its original alloy mudguards with thumbscrews and the hubs have R-wingnuts, all intact. There is a nasty taillamp, very rusty but cool. So the quetsion is, what do I do with this bicycle? It is actually rideable as-is, but it's really quite rough and should probably be preserved. But not by me; I have too many other projects. It's definitely worth a lot as a pile of components (that stem, wheels, R-nuts, saddle and so on are worth way more than the whole machine, I think), and I should probably use the rear wheel on my 30's Record Ace, which has the wrong wheels. Any ideas? The second machine is a 1959 Superbe, a 26" wheel, 23" frame machine with all the goodies: it has a gearcase, Dyno-Four rear hub, stainless spokes (not rims, sadly), rod brakes, huge saddlebag with all the original tools, Dyno-Luxe DBU with all the wiring intact, headlamp and taillamp, even a working Bluemels pump (probably not the original but a good period replacement). It's green of course, with a locking fork. It is HEAVY with all that stuff, but it, too, is rideable, if a bit rough. It came with a mattress saddle but I found a good 50s Brooks B66 at the same show where I bought the bikes, so that is now in place and looks the part. I cleaned up a small section of the rear mudguard last evening, and there was the original Raleigh green paint shining bravely back at me through the rust and gunge. There is very little paint left on parts of this bike, as it was obviously used regularly for a long time. I think I will keep it, having just sold my 1950 similar--but brush-painted-- Superbe to a fellow in Italy. I have a '61 as well, in much better overall shape, but it is a lot less interesting than the '59. The plan is to clean it up better, put on some new Michelins, and overhaul all the bearings so it will be reliable. I can just see the old boy riding to work in the village on this bicycle, back before you needed to lock your bicycle. Or tottering home on it from the pub.
But what to do about the Lenton? I should probably sell it, I suppose, although it does fill a place between the 30s RRA and the '56 Super Lenton.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Raleigh Superbe and Lenton Clubman posted by Kurt K. on 12/1/2005 at 3:25:28 PM
Wouldn't know what to do with the Lenton, Geoff, but may I suggest that you sell me the wheelset of the Superbe! ;-)

Seriously though, try using Meguiar's 'Scratch-X' on the frame, then waxing it. You might be surprised at the results.

I dare say it shouldn't be that difficult to get the Clubman's brightwork shining again, and while they can be pricy, those replacement parts are out there.

Alternately, you can use near-identical substitute parts when you can't locate the originals as a "place holder" for when you do find the correct parts.

In the case of the rear wheel, why don't you go ahead and use it on the Record Ace, and build up another alloy 26X1-1/4" rim for the Clubman?

You'll have one hell of a mild street machine there...

Take care,


ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Dunelt Serial Number posted by: will on 11/30/2005 at 7:42:27 PM
Hi, I have a Dunelt 3-speed with a Sturmey Archer hub that dates the bike to 1963 (AW 63). The frame serial number at the top of the seat tube reads 19081, and below that about 1/8" there is a B. Can anyone verify that the frame is also 1963 and comment on the likelihood of the thing being all original? Also, It has a not very well made black and white Wrights seat. Would that be original equipment? The pedals don't look right to me, as they are all steel with reflectors, and the kickstand is marked Made in USA so I know (well, I think) it's not right. Any help with the serial number thing and identifying and/or helping me find the right seat, pedals, and kickstand would be greatly appreciated. I just recently got infected with English 3-speed fever...

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Dunelt Serial Number posted by Geoff Rogers on 12/1/2005 at 3:42:10 AM
Hi, Will,
Good going! Dunelts of that period were built in Nottingham by Raleigh, and they were beautifully made to last a lifetime or more with minimal care. If yours is indeed a '63, there should be a small plastic oil port for the cranks down on the right-hand side of the bottom bracket (next to the sprocket, kinda). Raleigh stopped putting those on bikes in '65. Can't help with the serial number, but the Wrights saddle is probably correct; all of my Dunelts have had Wrights saddles, and since Dunelt was not one of Raleigh's top brands, it probably did come with a plastic mattress style saddle. Find a good used Brooks B72 or B66 on ebay or even plump for a new one (about $70 or so) and you will not regret it: these are the finest and most comfortable saddles made, IMHO, and they will last forever. Pedals should not have reflectors before about 1968, and the kickstand should be made in England, like everything else on this bike. Globalization had not come to England by the early 1960s!
Enjoy it! I have a couple of Dunelts and they are fine machines indeed. I can probably help with a proper kickstand and possibly a decent set of original pedals. Email me offline if you are interested.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Roadster wheels v lightweight wheels posted by: Bruce Robbins on 11/30/2005 at 12:21:40 PM
I'm having difficulty locating a pair of 26 x 1 1/4 rims for a pre-war lightweight bike I'm renovating. I have a pair of stainless 26 x 1 3/8 roadster rims and was thinking of using these. I'm not expecting the roadster wheels to perform exactly as the lightweight ones but can anyone say if there will be a noticeable difference in the way the bikes rides and handles. In other words, would these roadster wheels be acceptable on a lightweight?



FOR SALE:   Pair of DL-1's for sale posted by: David Poston on 11/29/2005 at 7:39:01 PM
Glad to see that some of you old guys are still hanging around this forum.

I am actually divesting myself of a garage-ful of numerous parts and whole bikes, included is a pair of 1970s DL-1's, both 22" frames. The men's version was carefully and meticulously retrofitted to give a 1930's classic appearance with full chaincase, NOS 1930s top-tube shifter, NOS WWII-era battery lantern, etc. Let me know if someone here is interested before I list it on e-bay. The bikes are still not entirely put together, so it will be a few weeks before I can assemble them.

I'm not totally giving up on English roadsters, but I'm just cutting back on my "fleet" to simplify my life and pursue other interests.

David Poston

   RE:FOR SALE:   Pair of DL-1's for sale posted by Kurt K. on 11/29/2005 at 10:39:17 PM
You have mail, David.


MISC:   Trokel Exercise Bike 3 wheel posted by: Sharon Mallory on 11/29/2005 at 4:21:56 PM
I just found this very old Trokel Exercise 3 wheel bike.
I can find no references for it on the internet. Any information appreciated.

MISC:   Bicycling dot com mechanic forums participant posted by: Tom C. on 11/29/2005 at 3:46:38 AM
I'm seeing the story for the first time, if this has been posted here earlier, forgive me.

The bicycling dot com maintenance forum took on the name, Biker Billy Club house and maintenance forum, because I guess, the mechanic Biker Billy offered so much advice.

Tragically, can you believe it, I don't know the whole story yet, but it seems another cyclist, Biker Billy passed away in an accident.

Here is the forum address: http://forums.bicycling.com/forum.jspa?forumID=2&start=0

I'm still verifying and reading things myself, I had two different questioins answered by the guy, who I think, had a personality, some might call callous and cynical, but he was always there. In fact, I felt a bit peeved once, but thought, everyone would see if I got upset at the "know-it-all"; so I said, "BikerBilly You're the man" in a controlled way and after that, seems things went on pretty smoothly.

I feel a loss, and I mean, if us grass roots cyclists, see this has occurred and the incident of a few years ago, with the cyclist in Alabama and all of that about him, his articles on cycling and Walden's Pond, we really need to reflect on things.

'Nuff said, Humbly, Tom


   RE:MISC:   Bicycling dot com mechanic forums participant posted by Matthew on 11/29/2005 at 6:51:13 PM
Your loss and the loss of those other folks who use the forum, comes through in your message here. As a fellow cyclist I offer you my condolence.


ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Lenton Sports on ebay posted by: Warren on 11/29/2005 at 1:22:36 AM
Although technically a lightweight, it was dressed up as a roadster. It went for $300 US. I think that's a bargoon when compared to the prices some Sports models have received.


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Lenton Sports on ebay posted by Neal on 11/29/2005 at 3:24:04 AM
I suppose that price isn't totally unexpected, given some of the bidding wars we've seen lately. Still, note that the winning bidder decided before anyone else that he'd go to $300. That seems like an awful lot of money for a Lenton Sports that's been heavily modified and doesn't seem to be in particular good condition. A couple of weeks ago, a 1959/60 Lenton Grand Prix went for $540 (http://tinyurl.com/9w6sq), so it does seem to be a seller's market for Raleigh VLWs.


ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Nice DUNELT DL-1 posted by: Larry "Boneman" Bone on 11/26/2005 at 12:44:10 PM
NMA, etc.

Interesting CHROME fenders on this one.



Larry "Boneman" Bone

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: Nice DUNELT DL-1 posted by Warren on 11/26/2005 at 4:00:49 PM
That looks like a 60's issue...at least the fenders. I've seen similar on some Sports models. Also missing the Dunelt chainwheel. I figure its pure Raleigh DL-1 branded as a Dunelt. Not common at all.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Nice DUNELT DL-1 posted by Geoff Rogers on 11/28/2005 at 7:05:12 PM
I have a very similar machine, also a '66, although it isn't as nice as the ebay one. The main difference between the Dunelt (I'm not sure what model it is, so I just refer to mine as a Dunelt DL1) and the Raleigh is the handlebars. The Dunelt has prewar-style, or pre-North Road style to be more precise, swept-back bars. They do not sweep forward the way North Road bars do, which means that they hit your knees during a tight turn! It also means a very upright riding position, even more so than a DL1. My Dunelt has a large sprocket brazed onto the original SA one in the rear, which gives very low gearing indeed. I know, brazing is not a good idea for powertrain components, but that's the way I bought it, and it seems to be holding up, so I will leave it alone until it comes adrift. The Dunelts also have very long cranks, longer than any of the DL1s I am associated with (I think they're 7 inches), which gives even lower gearing. Between the low gears and the very upright riding position, it's the nicest-riding machine I own. There is simply no question of riding fast, as you run out of gears quickly. As one wag put it, "It just doesn't do to go tearing about in a Rolls-Royce." The Dunelt is like that. Mine is pretty beat, but it's not for sale.
I have seen two others like it, by the way, all men's 24" frames, all with the tacky chrome fenders and pre-North Road bars.

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Bicycle Buildoff posted by: Dan Stanley on 11/23/2005 at 10:39:44 PM
Hay Guys,

Hardcore Mini Choppers is having a chopper bicycle build off!!! You can check it out at


First Prize is $100 and growing, the build off will start Friday November 25 and ends Jan 15 2006, The cost to enter is $20, All money raised will be added to the prize pot! Come join the worlds largest mini chopper resource. It filled with over 50,000 post and has great support 24\7



   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Bicycle Buildoff posted by Matthew on 11/24/2005 at 7:35:37 PM
Have I lost the plot or is this on the wrong message board?

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Bicycle Buildoff posted by Kurt K. on 11/24/2005 at 8:19:54 PM
No, it's the the right board...you see, he wants us to make DL-1s with very slack angles.

(Get the joke?)


   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Bicycle Buildoff posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 11/27/2005 at 1:10:54 PM
Well... actually... I had always thought a "British" chopper cobbled together in the DL-1 style (rod brakes and all) would certainly be awesome. I just don't have the technology... nor the time...



Larry "Boneman" Bone

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Nuts for a Dynohub? posted by: mark on 11/23/2005 at 4:07:32 AM
Any idea what kind/size nuts I need for a front Dynohub? I have a feeling they won't be easy to find...

Sorry about the wrong category earlier...

AGE / VALUE:   Nuts for a Dynohub? posted by: mark on 11/23/2005 at 3:58:38 AM
Any idea what size/kind of nuts I need for a Dynohub? I have a feeling that whatever they are, Ace Hardware won't carry them...Thanks

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Nuts for a Dynohub? posted by Matthew on 11/23/2005 at 9:27:17 PM
Check back on some old messages, probably a month or so ago. I managed to find a website with the British Standard Cycle thread charts on. With a bit of careful measurement you will find what it is you have and thus what nuts you need. Don't be fooled, they won't be anything other than BSC threads.

Matthew - another thread

   RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Nuts for a Dynohub? posted by Mark on 11/23/2005 at 10:51:52 PM
Not Whitworth, huh? The reason I wanted to know is that I am going to have to order online, and I wanted to size it first. It is bigger than the standard front hub size for a Raliegh.

Any idea what kind of store might carry these? Or what size I should be looking for?

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Nuts for a Dynohub? posted by Dick on 11/24/2005 at 4:49:34 PM
Try dropping an email to Sturmey Archer Hub Specialist Peter Read. He will probably sell you original S-A nuts in the size you are looking for.
Email: phoenix@read3101.freeserve.co.uk
Dick in L.A.


   RE:RE:RE:AGE / VALUE:   Nuts for a Dynohub? posted by Dick in Fl on 11/24/2005 at 7:39:00 PM
Ahh ... It's the *axle* nuts you are after. (I took your need to be the tiny nuts for the 4 fixing screws.) The oversized front axle nuts for the Dynohub are the same size thread as the rear axle nuts. They are cosmetically different, though, because of the red "R" on the acorn cap.

Dick in FL

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Nuts for a Dynohub? posted by mark on 12/2/2005 at 5:27:58 AM
Thanks for your help, guys. Actually, the very nice gentlemen witht he tattoos at the bike shop who built up my wheel with the Dynohub gave me a couple of the correct nuts - hadn't even thought of asking him.
Anyway, the hub is now on my new daily commuter - a 47(?) Rudge-Whitworth with blackened cranks, handlebars, brakes, nuts here and there, seat udercarriage and cable clips, plus a full chaincase. Just slapped on a 60s vintage light set for those early morning commutes. It's not as civilizied as a Roadster, but it is light enough for me to drag onto the train when I need to.

Any idea how old the dynohub might be? It's made with Bakelite as an insulating material - does that narrow it down any?

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   1949 All Steel Raleigh posted by: Dan Johnson on 11/23/2005 at 1:45:11 AM
I just picked this bike up at a local auction. It seems to be a 1949 Raleigh All Steel AW. The SA hub says 49 and the frame is stamped AS38165. It has the front dynamo hub, headlight, chain cover and about the biggest kickstand I've ever seen on a bike attached to the rear wheel lug on the left side. Does this sound like a 1949?
Also, it came with the wrong seat and grips. Where would I get the right seat (and pray tell, what would be the right seat?) and grips?
I'm a big fella, 6'3 and 260 pounds. I may look like a monkey in a circus riding it, although sans fez and sequined vest. Is there a way to shore it up some for the beefy type?


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: 1949 All Steel Raleigh posted by Warren on 11/23/2005 at 3:30:15 AM
Get the vest and the fez! Work all the shriners parades.

Sounds like you've got a Sports of some model...ditch the bad kick stand. Have a look here to see if you can find a similar model from '51. http://retroraleighs.com/catalogs/1951-england/index.html

A big guy like you might want a big wheeled DL-1 or Tourist. Sell yours...trade with someone? Otherwise, it should hold up just fine. I'm 230 lbs and I've been riding Sports for years. No problems.

   ENGLISH ROADSTERS: 1949 All Steel Raleigh posted by Dan Johnson on 11/23/2005 at 3:48:47 AM
Thanks Warren. Its good to hear from someone who also bangs their knees on the handlebars:)
I really don't see anything in the brochure that really looks like the front hub. There is a flange on the hub. Is it the generator for the front light?
If I need to buy a seat for it, what seat would I get? And, was the rear light operated electrically? Don't you love us newbie's?



   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: 1949 All Steel Raleigh posted by Warren on 11/23/2005 at 2:05:33 PM
Yes it's a dynohub and it was often incorporated into the rear wheel...see http://retroraleighs.com/catalogs/1951-england/pages/19-sports-tourist.html

On the Sports model you will find the dyno on the front...see

The dyno had two leads to the front light, which then looped to the rear light. You can buy a new brooks B66 saddle at many fine bike shops around the globe although I prefer the B72 for comfort. Both can be found on ebay, often.

One easy mod is to find a wide pair of bars from a single speed
roadster to help with knee banging. This is heresy to purists but I have them on a Sports and they are great. Still looks traditional too.

I'll send you wiring schematics.

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: 1949 All Steel Raleigh posted by Kurt K. on 11/24/2005 at 2:51:47 AM
Warren, I can't agree with you that the DL-1 is easier for 'big guys.'

The higher BB height may make it more difficult harder for some riders to mount the machine, for one.

Speaking of knee clearance, a particularly nagging problem I've had with my '79 Rudge DL-1 is just that - a very noticable lack of knee clearance.

Any tight corners taken with my DL-1 require a rythmatical bend-and-shuffle routine to get my knee to clear the end of the handlebar to make the turn and back.

Pedaling and general posture on the DL-1 is cramped as well (the narrow bars don't help), and it's hard to keep your knees from coming in contact with the bars even while heading dead-on straight.

I don't ride my DL-1 often, as it's a extremely nice, all-original '70s export Rudge example, but even if it weren't, I would probably keep my riding of it down to a minimum, as I simply don't find them comfortable.

My daily drivers will always be Raleigh Sports models for their notable lack of this problem, their much nimbler handling, and superior performance.

My current all-weather-rider, incedentally, is a '69 Robin Hood Sports. No clearance issues on this bike.

Curious, is your Sports a 21"-frame model? A 21"-frame model would probably explain your problem right there. A man of your height requires at least a 23" frame to be able to raise both the saddle and handlebars to an agreeable height.

I'm putting in a guess here, but I'd say you have a 21"-frame with the saddle set too low (to offset the low handlebar), and your knees are knocking against the bars because they aren't extended properly due to the low saddle.

Take care,


   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: 1949 All Steel Raleigh posted by Dan Johnson on 11/24/2005 at 6:39:23 PM
Here's a lousy jpg of the bike...Whattya guys think? It is a 27 inch frame.


   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: 1949 All Steel Raleigh posted by Dan Johnson on 11/24/2005 at 6:44:23 PM
Whoops...try it again.


   ENGLISH ROADSTERS: 1949 All Steel Raleigh posted by Dan Johnson on 11/24/2005 at 6:49:31 PM
Interesting. When I cut and past the url into the box, and when I hit the post reply, the tilde is change into a ' symdol. Any ideas why?

Theres the url for the bike;


   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: 1949 All Steel Raleigh posted by Kurt K. on 11/24/2005 at 8:17:46 PM
Aha - question answered...you found a rod-brake Raleigh DL-1! It's a 24" frame though, not a 27". Very nice bike you have there, and in very nice shape for it's age.

Read my post above for my own expierences handling my own DL-1 monster, and their knee-bending characteristics. You wouldn't have this problem with a Sports.

You might want to get a Brooks B66 leather saddle for it instead of that cheap cruiser replacement that's on it now. The B66 can also be placed back on it's mounting rails about an inch more then the cruiser saddle you have now, which may help slightly.

Incedentally, I had suspicions that your find wasn't a Sports when you mentioned the serial number. A Sports would have had the letters as a suffix to the serial numerals, not as a prefix, which would point to a DL-1 (of which I was correct in my assumption).

Take care,


   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: 1949 All Steel Raleigh posted by Dan J. on 11/24/2005 at 9:38:17 PM
Thanks Kurt! I was wondering about that.. Hey, what is the significance of the serial number on the frame? It doesn't seem to match anything on Sheldon's page, or perhaps I over looked it. Is it a 1949 frame?


   RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: 1949 All Steel Raleigh posted by Warren on 11/25/2005 at 1:09:24 AM
Maybe I should have said a DL-1 is impossible for guys with 29" inseams. The seat will not go low enough. Honest, I had one and had to get rid of it. I have yet to see a 22" frame DL-1 in the flesh.

   RE:RE:RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS: 1949 All Steel Raleigh posted by Kurt K. on 11/25/2005 at 2:59:05 AM
Dan: The serial numbers used through the late '40s and early '50s, as I currently know them, only disclose the year of manufacture.

The chart for these particular two-letter serials (like the one on your DL-1) is not available anywhere online. My knowledge of these serials are based entirely on a spreadsheet of known serials that I've been compiling for the very reason of figuring out the Raleigh serial code.

While I don't have many other serials in the chart from '48 or '49, I do have enough to say with good certainty that the "AS*****" serial dates your frame to either late '48 or 1949 production.

Warren: Come over to my place then, and see a 1979 22" Raleigh DL-1 in the flesh, with Rudge-Whitworth paint to boot.

Doubt if you could fit it though, as I have a Brooks B73 saddle atop it, with the triple coil springs taking up those few extra inches that the 22" frame affords those riders with shorter inseams.


   ENGLISH ROADSTERS:1949 All Steel Raleigh posted by Dan johnson on 11/25/2005 at 6:55:22 AM
Thanks guys. I've been in contact with someone I hope can shoot me some parts for the bike. I can't beleive I found one of these after all of these years of wanting one. I do have a Phillips from the 70's thats I've been riding though. Its a little bit on the small side. I like the Raleigh because in my extremely limited experience with it so far the pedals feel solid, not like they are going to fall off at any given moment.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:1949 All Steel Raleigh posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 11/26/2005 at 12:35:17 PM
Nice machine! Dynohub... full chaincase.... definitely a "Keeper". I have a 74 the same size. A formidably large machine for sure.

Best of luck with it!


Larry "Boneman" Bone

   RE:RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:1949 All Steel Raleigh posted by Dan Johnson on 1/23/2006 at 1:52:25 AM
If my bike takes 28 inch tires, does that mean it is a 28 inch frame?