| I'm re-posting this request from the Wanted/For Sale section; didn't notice this section on my first go-around. Anyway, I'm in search of a usable Raleigh 3-speed or similar type of bike for every day use. Do not want a museum piece bike. I prefer to deal with someone or business in the Los Angeles, Ca area. Drop me a line with a detailed description or photo of what you've got for sale. Thanks in advance, Thom. |
| Might be of interest to some here.|
| Not bad, a very nice late '60s example. A pretty penny he wants for it on the BIN, but the $59 starting bid is reasonable by Ebay standards. Doesn't have the distinct "D" fork thimble found on the earlier models though. |
It certainly is a striking color scheme though - almost as nice as that Trent Sports that was mentioned not long ago.
| It was a sad and a joyful day. One of my favorite spots to pick up vintage English bicycles, Ross Brothers, is closing their doors. It's sad because now I can't ride over there during my lunch break and ogle the cool old bikes, or even occasionally buy one (I bought a 1935 Raleigh Dawn Tourist with rod brakes and a 1952 Indian Scout there a couple of years ago, but resisted the temptation to repeat the performance because most of the bikes were, in my opinion, overpriced). But it was also joyful because they had a two-day auction of all sorts of neat things, including wooden boats and canoes, antique building and architectural pieces, and, yes, all the bikes. There were forty-plus bikes up for auction, of which at least thirty were British. Most were Sports machines in various conditions, ranging from rough to nice enough to ride and be proud of after a couple of hours with the wax and rag and fine steel wool. Yes, I said STEEL wool, not copper or bronze. I have been using steel wool on British cars and bikes for thirty years now and have yet to scratch that tough, beautiful English chrome, even once. I use O or OO grade. But I digress! Here are highlights of what I DIDN'T buy: 1963? Raleigh Deluxe Sports, men's, 23" frame, rare, $50. Two 1952-ish men's Sports, black, both with Dynohubs but no lights, $25 each. 1950s "DL1" Tourist, 28" wheels, 24" frame, rod brakes of course, gearcase, a bit rough but definitely fixable, may be the best bike of the sale, $50. Camelback Robin Hood, black, $25? Nice 1960s Hercules, beautiful paint and chrome, no saddle, sold as one of a lot at $10 each (I let this one get away, as it all happened so fast!). Many other Sports bikes, some rare names made by Raleigh including a Fleet Wing and a Centurion, a nice 50's Robin Hood with TCW coaster hub, a couple of Phillips, and a neat old Danish--I think--3-speed bike, all sold as that lot for $10 each.|
Here's what I did buy, although I will not brag about the prices I paid (they were all quite reasonable, though):
1961 Royce Union lady's 3-speed, blue. 1960? lady's Raleigh Sports, black. 1973-ish Raleigh LTD lady's, blue. 1969 Triumph lady's, blue, very nice. 1970 lady's Raleigh Sports, green. 1967 men's Raleigh Sports, black. 1967? Hercules, no wheels, brakes or rear fender but nice, clean frame and chrome. 1970's DL1, no rear wheel or front brake but otherwise not bad (I have all the bits to assemble it). 1973 DL1, really nice paint and decals except the fenders, which I will repaint. And the coolest one, a 1940 Phillips-built 26" machine with rod brakes. I have spent a few hours on this latter cycle and I just cannot believe how nice the original paint came up! Apart from a few old scratches, it is simply stunning. The red box lining looks like new, and the chrome is beautiful. It has its original (I think), very hard (!) brake blocks with black enamel fittings, original Terrys (or Wrights? Can't read the embossed oval on the side) mattress saddle, original small barrel grips. Tires were Allstate and IRC, now in the rubbish. I installed a pair of Dutch Kerrys I bought in England last year, and they look nice and seem to be good quality. At least they are European! there is no chainguard, and no marks where one might have been. A gearcase would look nice, and I have a spare one of those.... It has Bayliss-Wiley front hub and a AW 0 hub with trigger shifter. The latter is a sixties-type, with the "right-side-up" lettering and short trigger. I may install a Brooks leather saddle, because those old mattress saddles are covered with leathercloth that is pretty fragile (I did this to the Indian, which my wife uses regularly. I had to find myself another one for my own use!). I will, of course, keep the original saddle. Here's the odd thing: although it is clearly a Phillips/TI product, judging by the fork crown, which matches my 1940 Stoddard perfectly and the headset and B/B, which have holes instead of flats for a wrench, there is no name on the bicycle anywhere. The down tube says "Made In England" in large, flowing script but that's it for decals. I am certain it is original paint and lining, just from having studied hundreds of old English bikes over the years, so I do not expect the name decals have been painted over. Why would Phillips market cycles with no name?
And here's another conundrum: The hub is marked AW 0, which we have come to believe means, "1940", but I now have three bicycles with that same inscription: a prewar R-R-A, the Stoddard, and this mystery Phillipsey thing, but no other old AW hubs with different numbers. Is this a coincidence, or did S-A mark AW hubs that way for several years, maybe during the war? Does anybody have prewar AW hubs with a different number stamped?
Sorry, too many questions and this is getting too long. I hope to post a picture or two soon, and if anybody wants to buy any English bikes, let me know; I am drowning in them now (already had way too many!).
One more thing: what should I have for a trigger shift (no marks on the top tube for a TT-mount shifter)?
| Wow...it's a bloody good thing they've cancelled that auction or I'd be taking a long drive!|
I'm guessing that one of those 3/4 speed window triggers might be the ticket.
| I have a couple of old AW's one is marked "48 IO" and the other has no date it just says "PATENT". They have black left side covers and 3 splined sprockets. I do not know if the undated hub is prewar or what the IO means. Does anybody know. Thanks |
| And the trigger, pawhair812 has a very good prewar trigger with cloth covered cable on Ebay right now I have seen it, it is nice. It is at 50 bucks allready |
The "48 10" refers to October, 1948. The postwar hubs all had handy, logical date stamps like that. Look at the other one. Right next to where "AW" is stamped, does it have a number, often a faint number, sort of half-heartedly stamped? My three old ones all say, "AW 0". I hope yours says something other than "0", or I am going to become suspicious that this method of dating the mcchine is not reliable. the K series hubs all had one number, as well. My '35 Dawn is stamped, "KB 5", meaning K series 3-speed, B for hub brake, and 5 for 1935.
| This link says it all to help you determine the correct trigger shifter for your Phillips.|
In regard to AW with 0 marking I have one with a 9.
| Why are they closing their doors? Just wondering.|
| The hub marked 48 IO is more than likely 1948 Oct. The "I"for the number 1 thru me off. The other hub has no date at all that I can see nor does it have any patent numbers like the 48 hub. Were the date normaly is it just says PATENT and does not say "THREE-SPEED" at all anywere on the hub. It just says STURMEY ARCHER AW then under that PATENT. Has anybody seen a hub marked 47 or earlier. |
| Bothers you that there is no date on the thing, doesn't it?|
It made me wonder too!
Even the basic 3 speed A.W. hub gets mysterious on us if we find an old one!
Yes, this is what they did at the time.
It gets kinda funky the further you go back. Example, an K-4 stamping on a Sturmey- Archer hub is a K series 3 speed hub from 1934. The a.w. you have came after the K- series hubs.
Your hub has solid machined parts. Long lasting and tough metal that won't strip out axle nuts. Even if this hub is worn out innards, save those axle nuts! Save the shell too!
Heck, just keep the whole thing it's an oldie and a goodie!
Also may have a threaded driver and cog too!
| I have a gear stamped AW7 - I think the bike it is on is pre-war - I've always assumed 1937.|
| I'd go with that Peter. The K series went from 31 to 37 so AW 7 sounds like a 1937 AW to me.|
| Well, that confirms it. I guess it's just a coincidence that I have three bikes with AW hubs from 1940.|
This one does, indeed have a threaded driver. I didn't understand what that was, although I have heard folks discuss the mythical threaded driver in hushed, awed tones without knowing what it was. Are they desirable because you can put more common sprockets onto them, or for some other reason?
The hub nuts are the old black enamel ones, tough and beautiful. This machine has seen very little use, so I am sure the innards are fine.
Thanks to everyone for the info. Any guesses what this machine is, or what should I call it? A 1940 T.I.?
| Tenho um a bike Raleigh com o número - AU32820 - gostaria que me ajudasse a descobrir o ano de fabricação dela.|
Obrigado pela atenção.
| Tenho ua bike Raleigh com o número - AU32820 - e gostaria que me ajudasse a descobrir o ano de fabricação dela.|
Desde já obrigado.
| A nice looking machine, albeit not quite from the appropriate "Island".|
Larry "Boneman" Bone
| Those Miyata 3 speeds are nice, too bad that one is so big. There is an all chrome chromoly model running around portland that is beautiful|
| Definitely too bad there's no shipping. I had a nice Miyata 3-speed at work for getting around the campus until it got swiped. It was quite light for a 3-speed; aluminum rims, fenders, cranks, bars, etc. and a good performer. This one is really nice; front and rear racks, good fenders and only a crummy saddle that would be quickly and easily replaced! Anyone in Orange County to grab it?|
| It is neat but the handlebars are goofey looking |
| Agreed - always wondered why Americans have such a fasination with steerhorn handlebars...|
| I finally got my cable knarps today and discovered they will only work with old raleigh sports cables not the GB brakes on my clubman. Has anyone found a solution to this problem? The Clubman's rear brake cable already has a sort of "knarp" on it, one designed apparently to work the caliper. I don't think the knarp will work on the lever end of the cable, is it done one raleigh sports brakes. |