MISC:   1955? Argyle posted by: Spike on 6/26/2005 at 3:24:00 PM
I bought a beat up but fairly comeplete 3 speed womans. The chrome medalion on the stem says Argyle with the image of a thistle.Bottom of Crank bearing housing (correct name escapes me just now) is stamped british
in a semi circle with raised letters in the middle I believe R119L with a stamped V at the end.Top of housing has what appears to be a small oiler or plug pressed in place easily removed with a screw driver.Sprocket is 44 teeth I would describe it as a 6 pointd star with each ray an elongated triangle.Seat tube is 1 1/8" od.Bottom bar is 1 1/8" top bar is 7/8"Cottered crank With oval cross section arms.Brakes are "Monitor Sheerline" cable With nut/bolt retainer at caliper With large 8 MM hex adjuster with an 8.5 MM lock nut.Pedals are repairable with a triangle pattern.I`m guessing original considering the thread differences among brands especially in the 50s.Fork is fairly beefy.Fender eylets are above the dropouts.Bottom bar has pump storage pins approximately 15 1/4 inch apart.
Sturmey Archer AW 3 spd marked 55.I have 10 or 12 Raleigh/Robin Hood,Hercueles,Armstrong etc.It appears the Argyle is not directly related.
I asked Sheldon He says he never heard of an Argyle.Any help will be much appreceated. Thanks, Spike

   RE:MISC: 1955? Argyle posted by ckokkinis@comcast.net on 6/26/2005 at 8:33:39 PM

The thistle is associated with Flying Scots. Go carefully here. Probably not a Scot but I had to point that out>

Dude we need a picture of the bike.


MISC:   Rod brake adjustment posted by: David on 6/26/2005 at 12:06:48 AM
Does anyone have advice for adjusting rod brakes? My DL1 has the usual crummy brakes. I trued the front and fooled around with the brake. It's definitely smoother, but it doesn't seem to grip as well as it should. I'm getting ready to true the rear and I'd like to get that baby to STOP! I do have new rubber brake blocks to use.

   RE:MISC:   Rod brake adjustment posted by Charl Cilliers on 6/27/2005 at 10:54:53 AM
Drop me a mail and I'll send you instructions



   RE:MISC: Rod brake adjustment posted by Randy on 6/28/2005 at 7:37:27 PM
There's a photocopy of the rod-brake adjustment page from a late DL-1 manual on my website:


(The ' is a tilde.)


ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   What a difference fenders make... posted by: Kurt K. on 6/25/2005 at 1:12:34 PM
Recieved a pair of '67-'72 all-gold edition fenders for the gold '71 yesterday. Triumph fenders, yes, but it doesn't matter - hard enough to find this color in the first place.

What a difference! Yes, yes - an English Roadster is never complete without fender-ahem- mudguards. The finishing touch to an elegant machine.

Enjoy the photo.



   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   What a difference fenders make... posted by Larry "Boneman" Bone on 6/26/2005 at 11:21:13 AM
Nice machine Kurt. Yes... something about a proper set of mudguards makes them "complete".


Larry "Boneman" Bone

ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Question on handlebars for DL1 posted by: Mike on 6/25/2005 at 2:48:59 AM
Alright a quick question on DL1 handlebar problems. My 78 DL1's handlebars had a problem with those little eyelets that the roller levers went through. Basically, one of the eyelets was loose and practically falling out of the bars, causing breaking problems. What is the way to fix the eyelet? I haven't had success wedging it or trying to screw it in. I replaced these bars with a set of reproductions. The repros work fine and look good but aren't perfectly accurate and I kinda like having original stuff on the bike. If the bars can't really be fixed it's ok but if they can be with an at-home fix I'll do it.

   RE:ENGLISH ROADSTERS:   Question on handlebars for DL1 posted by Kurt K. on 6/25/2005 at 1:00:06 PM
I think David Posten (spelling?) had a pair or two of original DL-1 bars on eBay that didn't sell. I think they were $29.99 or $39.99 - not exactly sure.

I believe, when you mention the eyelet, you are referring to the universal-joint tab that connects the rod linkage to the leverage arm below the spring? I believe these are riveted in, with a small washer for a spacer.

You'd be best off replacing the whole bar - I've heard some stories of failed attemps to re-install the levers on the bars, mainly because of the spring.

Take care,


AGE / VALUE:   Rudge bike with conditions posted by: Chris on 6/25/2005 at 1:30:01 AM
I got a call from someone who I dealt with years ago. He referred me to somebody with a Rudge. The call was like letting air out of a balloon. First the bike was not a 28 inch wheel but is 26 X 1 3/8 ths. First strike.
Then not enclosed chainguard but hockey stick it is not the original either and it's damaged.
Now the front fender is not original. No dynohub.
the whole thing sounded less interesting as the call went on. He ended it up with Oh yeah, ... The rear fork is damaged from a car accident and it was straightened.

Ok, it's a parts bike in Detroit and I'm in the suburbs. No shipping, so I'm going to get it for the little parts it has like the badge and perhaps the wheels.

This is all I find these days.
Oh well.

   RE:AGE / VALUE:   Rudge bike with conditions posted by Kurt K. on 6/25/2005 at 1:05:17 PM
Oh, I wouldn't say that the good stuff is gone yet. Pre '60s Raleigh parts and such are becoming impossible to find, but it's out there - don't give up hope.

Ebay can be pretty good now and then, provided you know how to search, and if you know how to 'play the game.'

If you can bag it for $5-10 bucks, I'd say you did pretty well, if it's a pre-'65 deal with the Rhodesian chrome. Tear it apart, chuck out the frame.

P.S., if you need that hockey stick, I have a presentable NOS one - has some shopwear on it in spots, decal is all there.